How I wish that you were here just now!—The day perfect,—clear air, warm sunshine, with just felt breezes—the beautiful, park-like grounds—& the homely hospitality of your old friend,1 & of his wife and family.—If only we had a fortunatus-hat2 or wishing cloak to put at your disposal, we would instantly waft you here.
I enjoyed the journey here immensely. The novelty of the luxurious Sleeping Car
interested me to begin with, and everything was new & interesting. We loc_vm.00888.jpg turned in about
10 oclock, & both enjoyed a refreshing night's sleep. Morning clear & fresh
& beautiful—the landscape & farmsteads American!—Stopped for an
hour & a quarter at Buffalo, where we had breakfast. Arrived at Niagara Falls
(Canadian side) about 11.15 & had to wait for a train @ 3.—So, after the
Custom House officers had examined our Baggage we took a conveyance to the Falls.
Took long looks at them from several points of view, silently absorbing. Sun shining
gloriously, blue sky with light clouds here & there. I won't attempt to convey
my impressions of the Falls. Only that I was quite unprepared for their delicate
& exquisite beauty. The effects of the wreathing spray were beyond description
& unique. In coming to America I was indifferent whether I saw Niagara or not.
Now
loc_vm.00889.jpg I am very
thankful that I have seen it. But I did not care to stop too long, as "I only hold a
pint," & we came away while the impression was still fresh. We had a good dinner
at the Depot, & then put in the time till train came in—Dr.3 reading, I scribbling. Then a 4 hours run to
London—country beautiful all the time—"Blue Ontario"4 like a sapphire on our right for a time—snake
fences, stumps of trees, homesteads, character of scenery, perfect loveliness of
day—all of constant interest to me. Dr. visibly impatient to get home, his
heart going out to his wife5 & family, & friends after his trip—silent
& absorbed.
At last—½ an hour late—7.30 we arrived at London, & stepped out
on platform—Drs son came up, followed loc_vm.00890.jpg by two of the
Drs here. Conveyance in readiness & at 8 oclock we
arrived here. As we approached along the avenue a band struck up, playing by
lamplight, the new moon shining over head. Mrs Bucke
& family all waiting in the verandah. I never saw such a
homecoming & shall never forget it. Dr. moving about, shaking hands here, now
there, & exchanging greetings. Everyone manifestly glad to see him
back—talk & laughter, band playing all the time—now "Home, Sweet
Home," now "Should Auld Acquaintance be forgot," &c &c.—This quite a
long time—half an hour at least. Then the band stopped (half of them patients)
chorus of frogs still sounding, a few words of thanks from
Dr.—dispersal—& then into the house. Tea or supper, a little talk
& bed
loc_vm.00891.jpg I
noticed that early enquiries were made about you, & about Traubel6 & his wife.7—
Immediately after breakfast this morning we had a drive down to town, getting back about 11. Since then I have loafed, written letters &c.
Mrs Bucke notices a perceptible improvement in Drs appearance, & he seems to be unmistakeably better for his trip—How I wish you could have one too.
I wished it all the time we were out in Fairmount Park & Germantown. It was so beautifully fine.
My dear old friend! My heart goes out to you more than ever now that I have seen you. For one thing, you remind me so much of my dear mother. And in so far as I still felt a distance between us you have "disillusioned" me indeed, for you seem to me now as near & intimate as well as dear as my own Kith & Kin—Nay, dearer.
If I were not so helpless & stupid! I would gladly do something to please you, while I am over if I only knew what.
I am glad to have seen Mrs Davis8 & Warry,9 & feel that they are more my friends than ever. And I am very happy to know Traubel & his winsome wife. God bless them both.
loc_vm.00893.jpg Well, I think I
will stop now. I feel sleepy & write stupidly, & will rest a little—It
is now 4 o'clock, & at ½ past Dr. B will come here & drive me round the
grounds.
Love to you, renewed and deepened, & my best prayers & wishes. And love to all.
J.W. WallaceCorrespondent:
James William Wallace
(1853–1926), of Bolton, England, was an architect and great admirer of
Whitman. Wallace, along with Dr. John Johnston (1852–1927), a physician in
Bolton, founded the "Bolton College" of English admirers of the poet. Johnston
and Wallace corresponded with Whitman and with Horace Traubel and other members
of the Whitman circle in the United States, and they separately visited the poet
and published memoirs of their trips in John Johnston and James William Wallace,
Visits to Walt Whitman in 1890–1891 by Two
Lancashire Friends (London: Allen and Unwin, 1917). For more
information on Wallace, see Larry D. Griffin, "Wallace, James William (1853–1926)," Walt
Whitman: An Encyclopedia, ed. J.R. LeMaster and Donald D. Kummings (New
York: Garland Publishing, 1998).