Textual Feature | Appearance |
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Whitman's hand | blue double overline and underline |
Highlighting | yellow background with top and bottom border |
Paste-on | gray box with black borders |
Laid in | white box with black borders |
Erasure | white text with dark gray background |
Overwritten | brown with strikethrough |
The following names are introduced here, not only for exercise in memorizing isolated words, but with the hope that their perusal may awaken a desire to know their signification, in a better knowledge of the arts and sciences to which they relate.
[covered]N | PAGE |
I.—GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY | 9 |
II.—SHAPE OF THE EARTH | 9 |
[covered]II.—MOTIONS AND MAGNITUDE OF THE EARTH | 10 |
IV.—GLOBES AND MAPS | 10 |
V.—LATITUDES AND LONGITUDE, &c. | 10 |
VI.—ZONES AND CLIMATES | 11 |
[covered]II.—DIVISIONS OF THE LAND | 13 |
[covered]III.—DIVISIONS OF THE WATER | 13 |
IX.—NATURAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY | 14 |
X.—GOVERNMENT | 15 |
XI.—RELIGION | 15 |
XII.—OCCUPATIONS OF MANKIND | 16 |
[covered]III.—LANGUAGES OF MANKIND | 17 |
XIV.—GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE | 18 |
XV.—HISTORICAL OUTLINE | 18 |
XVI.—DISPERSION OF MANKIND | 19 |
LESSON | PAGE |
XVII.—WESTERN HEMISPHERE | 20 |
XVIII.—EXERCISES ON MAP OF WESTERN HEMISPHERE | 21 |
XIX.—EXERCISES ON MAP OF EASTERN HEMISPHERE | 22 |
XX.—EASTERN HEMISPHERE | 2[illegible] |
XXI.—GENERAL VIEW | 25 |
XXII.—THE UNITED STATES | 26 |
XXIII.—HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATE[illegible] | 30 |
XXIV.—NEW ENGLAND | 34 |
XXV.—STATE OF MAINE | 36 |
XXVI.—STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE | 38 |
XXVII.—STATE OF VERMONT | 40 |
XXVIII.—STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS | 42 |
XXIX.—STATE OF RHODE ISLAND | 46 |
XXX.—STATE OF CONNECTICUT | 48 |
XXXI.—THE MIDDLE STATES | 50 |
XXXII.—STATE OF NEW YORK | 52 |
LESSON | PAGE |
XXXIII.—STATE OF NEW JERSEY | 56 |
XXXIV.—STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA | 58 |
XXXV.—STATE OF DELAWARE | 61 |
XXXVI.—STATE OF MARYLAND | 62 |
XXXVII.—DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA | 64 |
XXXVIII.—THE SOUTHERN STATES | 67 |
XXXIX.—STATE OF VIRGINIA | 68 |
XL.—STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA | 73 |
XLI.—STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA | 75 |
XLII.—STATE OF FLORIDA | 78 |
XLIII.—STATE OF GEORGIA | 80 |
XLIV.—STATE OF ALABAMA | 82 |
XLV.—STATE OF MISSISSIPPI | 84 |
XLVI.—STATE OF LOUISIANA | 85 |
XLVII.—STATE OF TEXAS | 91 |
XLVIII.—THE WESTERN STATES | 95 |
XLIX.—STATE OF ARKANSAS | 97 |
L.—STATE OF MISSOURI | 99 |
LI.—STATE OF TENNESSEE | 101 |
LII.—STATE OF KENTUCKY | 103 |
LIII.—STATE OF OHIO | 106 |
LIV.—STATE OF INDIANA | 109 |
LV.—STATE OF ILLINOIS | 111 |
LVI.—STATE OF MICHIGAN | 114 |
LVII.—STATE OF WISCONSIN | 118 |
LVIII.—STATE OF IOWA | 120 |
LIX.—TERRITORIES—MINNESOTA | 123 |
LX.—KANSAS AND NEBRASKA | 124 |
LXI.—INDIAN TERRITORY | 125 |
LXII.—TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO | 127 |
LXIII.—THE PACIFIC REGION | 129 |
LXIV.—TERRITORY OF UTAH | 130 |
LXV.—STATE OF CALIFORNIA | 131 |
LXVI.—OREGON AND WASHINGTON | 134 |
GENERAL VIEW OF THE U. STATES | LXVII.—136 |
LXVIII.—THE POLAR REGIONS | 138 |
LXIX.—RUSSIAN AMERICA | 140 |
LXX.—BRITISH AMERICA | 141 |
LXXI.—NEW BRITAIN, CANADA, NEW BRUNSWICK, &c. | 143 |
LXXII.—REPUBLIC OF MEXICO | 146 |
LXXIII.—GUATIMALA, OR CENTRAL AMERICA | 150 |
LESSON | PAGE |
LXXIV.—WEST INDIES | 151 |
LXXV.—VIEW OF SEPARATE ISLANDS | 152 |
LXXVI.—DISCOVERIES OF COLUMBUS | 157 |
LXXVII.—GENERAL VIEW | 159 |
LXXVIII.—GUIANA | 161 |
LXXIX.—VENEZUELA | 162 |
LXXXX.—REPUBLIC OF NEW GRANADA | 163 |
LXXXI.—REPUBLIC OF ECUADOR | 165 |
LXXXII.—REPUBLIC OF PERU | 166 |
LXXXIII.—REPUBLIC OF BOLIVIA | 167 |
LXXXIV.—REPUBLIC OF CHILI | 168 |
LXXXV.—PATAGONIA | 169 |
LXXXVI.—BUENOS AYRES, OR THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC | 170 |
LXXXVII.—REPUBLIC OF URUGUAY | 171 |
LXXXVIII.—REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY | 172 |
LXXXIX.—EMPIRE OF BRAZIL | 172 |
XC.—THE ATLANTIC OCEAN | 174 |
XCI.—GENERAL VIEW | 177 |
XCII.—UNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND | 187 |
XCIII.—ENGLAND | 188 |
XCIV.—WALES | 193 |
XCV.—SCOTLAND | 194 |
XCVI.—IRELAND | 197 |
XCVII.—FRANCE | 199 |
XCVIII.—SPAIN | 204 |
XCIX.—PORTUGAL | 207 |
C.—ITALY | 208 |
CI.—GREECE | 214 |
CII.—TURKEY | 217 |
CIII.—EMPIRE OF AUSTRIA | 219 |
CIV.—KINGDOM OF PRUSSIA | 222 |
CV.—GERMANY | 223 |
[covered]VI.—SWITZERLAND | 226 |
[covered]II.—BELGIUM | 227 |
[covered]III.—HOLLAND | 228 |
[covered]IX.—DENMARK | 229 |
[covered]CX.—NORWAY, SWEDEN, AND LAPLAND | 231 |
[covered]XI.—RUSSIA IN EUROPE | 232 |
[covered]XII.—AFRICA. | 235 |
[covered]III.—NORTHERN AFRICA | 236 |
[covered]IV.—EGYPT AND NUBIA | 238 |
[covered]V.—WESTERN AFRICA | 239 |
[covered]VI.—CENTRAL AFRICA | 239 |
[covered]II.—SOUTHERN AFRICA | 240 |
[covered]II.—EASTERN AFRICA | 240 |
[covered]X.—ISLANDS OF AFRICA | 241 |
LESSON | PAGE |
CXX.—ASIA | 243 |
CXXI.—RUSSIA IN ASIA | 245 |
CXXII.—TURKEY IN ASIA | 246 |
CXXIII.—ARABIA | 251 |
CXXIV.—PERSIA | 255 |
CXXV.—AFGHANISTAN AND BELOOCHISTAN | 256 |
CXXVI.—INDEPENDENT TARTARY | 257 |
CXXVII.—HINDOSTAN, OR INDIA | 258 |
CXXVIII.—FARTHER INDIA | 261 |
CXXIX—CHINESE EMPIRE | 263 |
CXXX.—EMPIRE OF JAPAN | 265 |
CXXXI.—OCEANICA | 266 |
CXXXII.—GENERAL VIEWS OF THE EARTH | 269 |
THE object of this work is to furnish a Geographical and Historical View of the World in a condensed form, suited, as a Book of Reference, to the use of Families, Merchants, Editors, Travelers, and the great mass of general readers.
The Author is the oldest, and, universally acknowledged, one of the most entertaining and reliable Geographers and Historians now living. Under the name of Peter Parley he is very favorably known to the masses of society, and his writings are "Familiar in their mouths as household words." This is his last, best work, in which he gives, in connection with the Geography of the World, an interesting and authentic History of Every Important Event that has transpired from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time.
It contains 272 quarto pages, illustrated with 200 Engravings, and 80 Maps of divisions, sub-divisions, and cities, prepared expressly for this work, and given in connection with the text which they illustrate.
It gives valuable statistics of the different countries up to the present time, not elsewhere to be found.
It contains the last Census of the United States, attached separately to the Geography and History of Each State.
The whole matter is arranged in a convenient and systematic form, for easy reference, the headings of the different subjects being in large type, so as to immediately attract the eye.
It contains a Geographical Description of every country on the globe.
It gives a Historical Outline of every country, Ancient as well as Modern. It contains an Outline of the Ancient Geography of every country, illustrated by full Ancient Maps.
When the mind is filled with a geographical [cut away]tion of a country, a curiosity to know its histo[cut away]riably arises; and under the excitement the latter[cut away] with vivid interest. The impression is therefore [cut away] and likely to be durable; the history serving, b[cut away] associations, to rivet the geography more firmly [cut away] memory. When reading the geographical acc[cut away] Mesopotamia, for instance, to learn in the same [cut away]tion that this is the country where the descen[cut away] Noah dwelt—that here was the Tower of Ba[cut away] the confusion of Tongues—that here was the [cut away] Babylon, founded by Nimrod, embellished by Se[cut away] perfected by Nebuchadnezzar, and conquered b[cut away]ander, will certainly add an interest to the subj[cut away] tend to impress the facts permanently upon th[cut away] We are never satisfied with learning what a co[cut away] without knowing how it became what it is; w[cut away] look upon a scene but the inquiry arises, "What ha[cut away]pired there?"
It is believed that no work has ever before co[cut away] these advantages of numerous maps in immediate [cut away] with the description of countries to which they [cut away] with the union of History and Geography—and [cut away] topics systematically and conspicuously arranged [cut away]venient reference.
In the back part is a copious Index, containing [cut away] Geographical and Historical Names in the wor[cut away] the pages upon which they are respectively tre[cut away] placed directly opposite, and the names divided [cut away]cented, so as to form a systematic and accurat[cut away]graphical and Historical Pronouncing Dictionary.
It is, unquestionably, one of the most valuable [cut away] for the library that has ever been issued. It has r[cut away] the highest encomiums of scientific men in Eur[cut away] America, as well as the most flattering notices of the [cut away]
1. WESTERN HEMISPHERE (small) | 11 |
2. EASTERN HEMISPHERE (do.) | 12 |
3. WESTERN HEMISPHERE | 21 |
4. EASTERN HEMISPHERE | 22 |
5. NORTH AMERICA | 24 |
6. UNITED STATES (small) | 26 |
7. UNITED STATES | 28, 29 |
8. NEW ENGLAND | 34 |
9. STATE OF MAINE | 36 |
10. " NEW HAMPSHIRE | 38 |
11. " VERMONT | 40 |
12. " MASSACHUSETTS | 42 |
13. CITY OF BOSTON | 44 |
14. STATE OF RHODE ISLAND | 46 |
15. " CONNECTICUT | 48 |
16. MIDDLE STATES | 50 |
17. STATE OF NEW YORK | 52 |
18. CITY OF NEW YORK | 54 |
19. HUDSON RIVER | 55 |
20. STATE OF NEW JERSEY | 56 |
21. " PENNSYLVANIA | 58 |
22. CITY OF PHILADELPHIA | 60 |
23. STATES OF MARYLAND AND DELWARE | 61 |
24. CITY OF BALTIMORE | 63 |
25. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA | 64 |
26. SOUTHERN STATES | 66 |
27. STATE OF VIRGINIA | 68 |
28. STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA | 73 |
29. " SOUTH CAROLINA | 75 |
30. " FLORIDA | 78 |
31. STATES OF GEORGIA AND ALABAMA | 80 |
32. " MISSISSIPPI AND LOUISIANA | 84 |
33. CITY OF NEW ORLEANS | 87 |
34. STATE OF TEXAS | 91 |
35. WESTERN STATES | 94 |
36. STATE OF ARKANSAS | 97 |
37. " MISSOURI | 99 |
38. " TENNESSEE | 101 |
39. " KENTUCKY | 103 |
40. " OHIO | 106 |
41. STATES OF INDIANA AND ILLINOIS | 109 |
42. STATE OF MICHIGAN | 114 |
43. " WISCONSIN | 118 |
44. " IOWA | 120 |
45. TERRITORIES IN THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI | 122 |
46. OREGON AND CALIFORNIA | 129 |
47. CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO | 133 |
48. POLAR REGIONS | 138 |
49. NEW BRUNSWICK, CANADA, &c. | 143 |
50. CITY OF MONTREAL | 144 |
51. MEXICO, GUATIMALA, AND THE WEST INDIES | 146 |
52. CENTRAL AMERICA | 150 |
53. SOUTH AMERICA | 158 |
54. ATLANTIC OCEAN | 175 |
55. EUROPE | 176 |
56. THE WORLD AS KNOWN TO THE ANCIENTS | 181 |
57. BRITISH ISLES | 186 |
58. FRANCE | 199 |
59. SPAIN AND PORTUGAL | 204 |
60. ITALY | 208 |
61. ANCIENT ITALY | 209 |
62. ROMAN EMPIRE | 212 |
63. MEDITERRANEAN SEA | 213 |
64. MODERN GREECE | 214 |
65. ANCIENT GREECE | 215 |
66. CENTRAL EUROPE | 220 |
67. SWITZERLAND | 226 |
68. NORWAY, SWEDEN, AND DENMARK | 231 |
69. AFRICA | 234 |
70. ANCIENT AFRICA | 236 |
71. EGYPT | 238 |
72. ASIA | 242 |
73. TURKEY IN ASIA | 246 |
74. ASIA MINOR | 247 |
75. ASIA AS KNOWN TO THE ANCIENTS | 250 |
76. PERSIA, ARABIA, AFGHANISTAN, AND BELOOCHISTAN | 252 |
77. INDIA | 258 |
78. CHINA | 263 |
79. PACIFIC OCEAN | 266 |
1. Astronomy—or the science of the heavenly bodies, presents three classes of objects to our contemplation. First, the FIXED STARS, which are supposed to be suns, around which troops of planets revolve. About two thousand of these are visible to the naked eye; but it is calculated that 100,000,000 can be seen by good telescopes. Their distance from us is so great, that although many of them are doubtless much larger than the sun, yet they appear like mere shining points, even through fine telescopes. It is estimated that the nearest of these stars must be 200,000,000 miles from the earth. It is calculated that the number of these orbs is entirely beyond human conception, as the "Milky Way" is supposed to consist of myriads of suns, millions of miles apart, in the boundless fields of space. Second, NEBULÆ which consist of patches of faint light, of various forms, seen through telescopes, in different parts of the heavens. These have given rise to many speculations, some supposing them to be unorganized matter, or fire-dust, gradually being formed into worlds, or perhaps remaining stationary. Others regard them as fixed stars, at a distance so inconceivable that no telescope can separate them. Third, the SOLAR SYSTEM, which consists of the sun, with several planets revolving around it, of which our earth is one. The diameter of the sun is 880,000 miles; its circumference, 2,764,000 miles. Its surface contains 12,850 times the area of the globe we inhabit. Some of the planets are nearer than our earth to the sun, and some are more distant. Some are smaller, and some are larger than the earth. They all revolve around the sun, and all turn upon their own axes. The distance of the earth from the sun is 95,000,000 miles. Some of the planets are visible, and some are invisible, to the naked eye. Jupiter, the largest of the planets, is 495,080,000 miles from the sun, and it is always at least 600,000,000 miles from the earth. It is 1400 times larger than the earth. Saturn is nearly twice as far from the earth as Jupiter. It is surrounded by two immense rings, one within the other. The diameter of the outer ring is 179,000 miles and it is 7200 miles broad. The interior ring is 20,000 miles broad. These rings revolve swiftly around the body of the planet. Saturn has also seven moons or satellites. Comets are bodies seeming to be of a gaseous nature, generally appearing in the heavens with long luminous trains behind them. About 1400 of these eccentric luminaries have been observed. They are seen to revolve around the sun in very different orbits; usually coming near to that orb, and then [illegible]ooting off to an [illegible]mmense distance. Some return after a few years: others are hundreds of years in performing their stupendous revolutions.
Illustration showing the layers of the Earth and atmosphere.2. Geology regards the structure of the earth, and the means by which it has been made to assume its present form. The general theory is, that the sun was once the nucleus or center of a nebulous mass, revolving on its axis; that this became condensed, and the planets wore successively thrown off from this central body. This theory considers the earth to have been first in a gaseous state, similar to the comets. By degrees, its heat was dispersed and radiated into space; in consequence of which, the particles became condensed, yet still in a state of fusion. The process of cooling went on, until the external crust of the globe became hardened into the solid materials of which we see it now composed, yet leaving the central mass in a state of incandescence. At first, in the process of cooling, the crust of the globe was perhaps broken and torn; thus presenting the rugged aspect which the telescope now unfolds to view in the moon. The pent-up fires within would seek vent, the volcanoes would disgorge their contents, and the earthquakes would shake and dislocate the land and the sea. The rain and the tempest now began their work. Particles of earth were disengaged from the mountains, and borne by the floods to the valleys, and a soil was thus formed for vegetation. After many changes, extending through millions of years, that sublime revolution which established the present arrangement of oceans and continents, and the present races of animal and vegetable life, as described in the opening books of the Bible, was effected. We have not space to follow out, in detail, the progress of this wonderful history It must be sufficient to state that we now find the earth consisting of an exterior crust, composed of layers of rock and soil of different kinds, probably inclosing a mass of melted matter in the center. These layers or strata are thrown one upon another, in almost every possible position. Some of them are horizontal, others vertical, and others inclined at various angles. Those beds or strata which are found at the greatest depths to which man has been able to penetrate, are called primary, and are supposed to have been formed first. Those strata which are found lying upon primary rocks, and contain the remains of animals and vegetables, are supposed to have been formed at a subsequent period, and are called secondary. Those beds usually found reposing upon secondary strata, composed of fragments of both primary and secondary rocks, are called tertiary, or alluvial formations, and are supposed to bee of more recent origin than the two latter classes. The annexed engraving gives a view of a section of the earth, though it must be borne in mind that the strata are here exaggerated, so as to show more distinctly the forms into which they are cast.
3. Form and Surface of the Earth.—The form, dimensions, and motions of the earth are given at pages 9 and 10; its distribution into land and water, with the extent of oceans and continents, and the population of the globe, at page 16. It may be remarked, in general, that the natural history of the earth, astronomical, geological, and geographical, displays a Beneficent and Intelligent Author, presiding over every step of its progress, from the beginning to the end.
4. Physical Geography.—Land Surface of the
Globe.—CONTINENTS. We have shown the division of the land
surface of the globe into continents, &c., at pages 18 and
20. MOUNTAINS, in their exterior forms, exhibit varieties which
strike the most inattentive observer. Their utility is very
great. They attract the clouds and vapors, which become
condensed by cold, and fall in the shape of snow and rain, thus
giving birth to innumerable streams which descend and spread
fertility and beauty over the surface of the earth. The longest
range of mountains in the world is the American range, 9000
miles long. The longest range in Asia is the Altaian range, 5000
miles. The longest ranges in Africa are the Mountains of the
Moon, 2000, and the Atlas range, 1500 miles. The longest range
in Europe is the Ural, 1500. The Dofrafield range is 1000 miles;
the Carpathian, 500; the Alleghany, or Apalachian, 900; the
Green Mountains, 350; the Alps and Apennines, 700; the Pyrenees,
200. The hights of the principal mountains will be found under the
Grand Divisions. VOLCANOES.—The number of volcanoes that
have been discovered amounts to several hundred. Some of these
are extinguished, others are in constant activity, and others
still are periodically inflamed. The most celebrated volcanoes
in the world are Etna, Hecla , Cotopaxi, and Vesuvius. EARTHQUAKES are supposed to
be intimately connected with volcanoes, and usually take place
in volcanic countries. There have been frequent earthquakes near
the borders of the Mediterranean Sea, and around the Gulf of
Mexico. ISLANDS.—There are numerous islands scattered
throughout the oceans, the largest of which, in round numbers,
are as follows:
This table lists the largest islands in the world
and their surface areas in square miles. The islands
include: Australia, Greenland, Borneo, New Guinea,
Madagascar, Sumatra, Great Britain, Cuba, Iceland, and
Long Island.
VALLEYS are formed by the separation of chains of mountains or
hills. Those which lie between ranges of high mountains are
generally narrow. Valleys collect the waters which descend from
the mountains, and pour them into the rivers. There are some
valleys situated in elevated regions, having rivers and lakes
with no outlets. Such is the valley which surrounds Lake
Titicaca, in South America. Central Asia abounds in these
valleys. PLAINS are of two kinds, high and low. Those of Mexico,
Peru, and Central Asia are of the former kind, and are generally
[begin surface 28]
270
GENERAL VIEWS OF THE EARTH.
surrounded by a bulwark of mountains, which supports them. The
plains of Mexico are from 6 to 8000 feet high; those of Quito
are 12,000. Some of those in Chinese Tartary are probably as
elevated. The low plains consist, generally, of sand, gravel,
and shells. Such are those along the eastern part of our
Southern States, on the north of the Caspian Sea, and on the
south of the Baltic; the Delta of Egypt, the Valley of the
Amazon. DESERTS.—The most remarkable of these are Sahara, Cobi ,
and Atacama. There are extensive deserts also In Beloochistan,
Persia, Siberia, and Arabia. CAVERNS.—There are numerous
caverns or fissures in the earth, particularly in calcareous
regions. Most of these seem to owe their formation either to the
retiring or sinking of the earth. Some of them are of prodigious
extent. The depth of that near Castleton, in England, has not
been ascertained, though sounded by a line of 9600 feet. Near
Frederickshall, in Norway, there is a hole, into which, if
stones are thrown, they appear to be two minutes before they
reach the bottom; from which it is concluded that the depth is
up ward of 11,000 feet. The most curious caverns are those which
present crystals suspended from the roof, or lying on the
ground, assuming various fantastic forms, and often presenting
the images of animals and vegetables. The Grotto of Antiparos,
the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, &c., are of this kind. When
lighted up by torches, they present scenes of inconceivable
splendor.
5. Water Surface of the Globe.—Oceans.—The Atlantic Ocean is noticed at page 175, and the Pacific at 266. The green tint of the ocean is supposed to be given by marine vegetables, with which the bottom of the deep is generally covered. The blue color of the ocean is but the reflection of the sky. The sparkling of the ocean in the night—which is often a most beautiful phenomenon—is caused by myriads of small sea-animals, diffused in the water, which emit a phosphoric light. The currents of the ocean, which are mainly from east to west, though often changed by the shape of the land by which they pass, are caused partly by the rotary motion of the earth, which leaves the fluid behind, near the equator, creating a movement contrary to that of the earth—i. e., from east to west; and partly also by evaporation of the water in the equatorial regions, and the supply which rushes in from the two poles. Eddies, Whirlpools, &c., are generally formed by rocks above or beneath the surface. The prevailing winds of the ocean are caused by the action of the sun, rarifying the air near the equator, and sending it upward, while the cold air rushes in from the north and south to fill its place. The currents of air, thus set in motion, are modified by the rotation of the earth, and various other causes. There is a considerable analogy between the origin of the winds and currents of the ocean, and doubtless these both act and react on each other. The saline property of the sea is owing to the quantity of salt diffused throughout the mineral masses of the earth. Water-spouts are caused by violent whirlwinds, which force up masses of the ocean, and whirl them about with violent agitation. They often prove fatal to ships at sea. TIDES.—Every twelve hours, the waters of the sea rise and fall along the shores, the average being from ten to twelve feet. Thus the tide ebbs and flows, throughout all oceans and most seas, twice in twenty-four hours. This extraordinary phenomenon is caused by the attraction of the moon, which, by the universal law of attraction, lifts the water as it passes over its surface. The attraction causes high tide, and the reaction low tide. SEAS are but parts of the great oceans, to which we attach different names. The following is the extent of some of the most prominent: This table lists the names and extent of some of the seas including" Chinese, Mediterranean, Caribbean, Okotsk, Black, Red, Baltic, and Irish. RIVERS have their origin in high grounds, and are caused by rains, the melting of snows, glaciers, &c. They are of the greatest service in scattering fertility along their borders, and furnishing the means of internal navigation to the countries through which they pass. Most of the great cities of the earth are situated upon rivers; and the thickest population is usually found in valleys, along their banks. The principal rivers will be found under the Grand Divisions of the Earth. The following table exhibits the largest river of each quarter of the globe: This table lists the longest rivers of each continent and their lengths including: the Mississippi, Amazon, Volga, Niger, and Yenesei rivers. CATARACTS.—Rivers, in their descent, often form cataracts or cascades, which are among the most beautiful objects in nature. The Cataract of Niagara exceeds all others in the quantity of water precipitated over its rocks; but there are many whose fall is much greater. The following is a list of some of the most famous: This table lists the most famous waterfalls in the world and includes their location and the length of the falls. The cataracts include: Favarnie, Fugloe, Staubbach, Tequendama, Montmorency, Cauterskill, Niagara, Shauffhausen, Cahoes, Tivoli, and St. Anthony. SPRINGS.—These are small reservoirs of water in the earth, which overflow, and are conducted by channels to some opening. Mineral springs are those which are impregnated with various substances, from the soil over which they flow. Many of them are highly medicinal. Among the most celebrated are those of Saratoga, in New York; the White Sulphur, in Virginia; those of Bristol, Bath, Tunbridge, and Cheltenham, In England; Spa, in Belgium; Carlsbad, in Germany, &c. Thermal springs are those which are heated, probably by some connection with volcanic materials. These are numerous in many countries; but the most celebrated are the Geysers, in Iceland.
6. The Three Kingdoms of Nature.—MINERALS.—The unorganized portion of the earth belongs to the Mineral Kingdom. This furnishes sustenance to vegetables, and vegetables are the chief nutriment of animals. Among the mineral treasures of the earth, coal is the most important. Next to that are the various metals, iron, lead, tin, copper, zinc, silver, and gold, all of which contribute to human civilization. VEGETABLES—The Empire of Vegetation embraces the whole globe, from pole to pole, and from the summit of mountains, where the lichen creeps over the hardest rocks, to the bottom of the ocean, where floating fields of plants rise unseen. Cold and heat, light and shade, fertile lands and pathless deserts—every place, every temperature, has its own kind of vegetation, which thrives and prospers there. There are plants which even ramify upon the dark vaults of mines, and upon the walls of the deepest caverns. Among the most important vegetables are grains, which furnish bread; cotton, which furnishes clothing; sugar, tea, coffee, and spices, which supply us with luxuries. Ships, as well as a large part of our houses and furniture, are built of vegetable materials. Directly or indirectly, all animal life depends upon vegetable products. ANIMALS.—The Animal Kingdom presents a vast and varied field. Every department of nature—the earth, air, and sea—is full of animated beings; some of them seeming nearly allied to vegetables and minerals. From these we may ascend in the scale, through an almost infinite series of existences, up to Man, who constitutes the highest in the animal kingdom. MAN.—The various original races or mankind may be reduced to five original races or types. The first is called the European race, and occupies Western Asia, Eastern and Northern Africa, Hindostan, and Europe, and embraces the white inhabitants of America. This race is sometimes called the Caucasian, it being imagined that it originated near the mountains of Caucasus. The principal nations embraced in this class are the Europeans and their American descendants, the Arabs, Moors, Turks, Hindoos, and Abyssinians. The second variety is the Tartar, or Mongolian, and includes all the nations in Asia east of the Ganges, excepting Malacca. It embraces, also, the Laplanders and Finns, in Europe, and the Esquimaux, from Behring's Straits to Greenland, in America. The third, or American variety, consists of the aborigines of the western continent. The fourth race is the Malay, comprehending the inhabitants of the peninsula of Malacca, and the islands of the Pacific Ocean, with the exception of New Holland, New Guinea, New Caledonia, and Van Dieman's Land. The fifth race is the Negro, which is spread over all Western and Southern Africa. It is found also upon the coasts of Madagascar, and occupies New Holland, Van Dieman's Land, New Caledonia, and New Guinea. Of these five races, the Caucasian deserves to be considered the first. Not only is the countenance more beautiful, but the intellectual and moral endowments of this race are of a higher character. Whenever they have met with the other races, they have ultimately prevailed. They have excelled all others in literature and the arts, and seem to have given birth to most of the valuable institutions of human society.
7. Political Geography.—GOVERNMENT.—By far the larger part of the governments in the world are monarchical, and more or less despotic. In Africa and Asia, nearly all the governments are despotisms. In Europe, there are a few republics. The other governments are monarchical, though many are limited by constitutions. They are now administered more mildly than in former times, and the influence of the people is every where becoming more and more felt and acknowledged. RELIGION.—The following is an estimate of the portions of the earth devoted to the several leading religious creeds of mankind: This table lists the religions of the world and the estimated number of people in each. The religions include: Pagans, Christians (and subdivisions of Christians), Mohammedans, and Jews. CITIES.—We have given a view of the principal cities of the world under the Five Grand Divisions. The following is a list of ten of the most celebrated: This table lists the names and populations of ten of the most celebrated cities. These cities include: London, Pekin, Jedo, Constantinople, Paris, Calcutta, Surat, Vienna, Cairo, and New York. AGRICULTURE.—This is the chief source whence the food and clothing of man are derived. Bread, meat, potatoes, fruits, for food, and flax, silk, wool, and cotton, for clothing, are all products of agriculture. It is supposed that the annual value of the agricultural products of the United States is about twelve hundred millions of dollars (see page 137). It is estimated that in the world there are: This table lists the estimated numbers of Human Beings, Domestic Sheep, Domestic Cattle, Domestic Swine, Domestic Horses, Asses, and Mules, and Domestic Goats in the world. If we consider that each day these are to be fed, chiefly by the agricultural industry of man, we shall have some faint conception of its extent and importance. MANUFACTURES.—It is supposed that the annual product of manufactures in the United States is nearly as great as that of agriculture. Fifty millions of nails are made and used every day, in the United States. A single cotton factory will spin a thread long enough to reach round the world, at the equator, in three hours. One hundred thousand pieces of calico, of thirty yards each, are produced every week in the United States. The cotton manufactures of Great Britain are of the annual value of one hundred and thirty millions of dollars, and the woolen manufactures two-thirds as much. These facts will give some imperfect idea of the amazing extent of this branch of human industry. RAILROADS AND CANALS.—Railroads, which have not existed for more than twenty-five years, are rapidly increasing in the United States, and in Europe. In other parts of the world, they are hardly begun (see pages 136 and 137: also articles England, Holland, &c.) COMMERCE is that process by which mankind exchange their surplus products for others which they need (see page 137). The following table gives a list of some of the exports or various countries:
B.C. | ||||
1 | Astronomical observations first made in Babylon, |
|
2234 | |
2 | Lyre invented | [covered] | 2004 | |
3 | Sculpture | [covered] | 1900 | |
4 | Agriculture, by Triptolemus. | [covered] | 1600 | |
5 | Chariots of war. | [covered] | 1500 | |
6 | Alphabetic letters introduced into Europe.—————————— | [covered]—————————— | 1500 | |
7 | The first ship seen in Greece, arrived at Rhodes from Egypt. | [covered] | 1485 | |
8 | Iron discovered in Greece, by the burning of Mount Ida. | [covered] | 1406 | |
9 | Seaman's compass invented in China. | [covered] | 1120 | |
10 | Gold and silver money first coined by Phidon, king of Argos. | [covered] | 894 | |
11 | Parchment invented by Attalus, king of Pergamus. | [covered] | 887 | |
12 | Weights and measures instituted. | [covered] | 869 | |
13 | First eclipse observed.—————————— | [covered]—————————— | 721 | |
14 | Ionic order used in building. | [covered] | 650 | |
15 | Maps and globes invented by Anaximander.———————— | [covered]—————————— | 600 | |
16 | Sun-dials invented. | [covered] | 558 | |
17 | Signs of the Zodiac invented by Anaximander. | [covered] | 547 | |
18 | Corinthian order of architecture. | [covered] | 540 | |
19 | First public library established at Athens.—————————— | [covered]—————————— | 526 | |
20 | Silk brought from Persia to Greece. | [covered] | 325 | |
21 | The art of painting brought from Etruria to Rome, by Quintus Pictor | [covered] | 291 | |
22 | Solar quadrants introduced. | [covered] | 290 | |
23 | Mirrors in silver invented by Praxiteles. | [covered] | 288 | |
24 | Silver money first coined at Rome. | [covered] | 269 | |
25 | Hour-glass invented in Alexandria. | [covered] | 240 | |
26 | Burning mirrors invented by Archimedes. | [covered] | 212 | |
27 | First fabricating of glass. | [covered] | 200 | |
28 | Brass invented. | [covered] | 146 | |
29 | Paper invented in China.—————————— | [covered]—————————— | 105 | |
30 | Rhetoric first taught in Rome. | [covered] | 87 | |
31 | Blister-plasters invented. | [covered] | 60 | |
32 | Julian year regulated by Cæsar. | [covered] | 45 | |
33 | Apple trees brought from Syria and Africa into Italy. | [covered] | 9 | |
34 | Vulgate edition of the Bible ?discovered.? | [covered] | 218 | |
35 | Porcelain invented in China. | [covered] | 274 | |
36 | Water-mills invented by Belisarius. | [covered] | 555 | |
37 | Sugar first mentioned by Paul Eginetta, a physician. | [covered] | 625 | |
38 | Stone buildings introduced into England, by Bennet, a monk. | [covered] | 670 | |
39 | Couriers, or posts, invented by Charlemagne. | [covered] | 808 | |
40 | Arabic figures invented.—————————— | [covered]—————————— | 813 | |
41 | Lanterns invented by king Alfred. | [covered] | 890 | |
42 | High towers first erected on churches. | [covered] | 1000 | |
43 | Musical notes invented by Guy and Aretin. | [covered] | 1021 | |
44 | Heraldry originated. | [covered] | 1100 | |
45 | Distillation first practised. | [covered] | 1150 | |
46 | Glass windows first used in England.—————————— | [covered]—————————— | 1180 | |
47 | Chimneys built in England | [covered] | 1236 | |
48 | Leaden pipes for conveying water, invented. | [covered] | 1252 |
49 | Magic lanterns invented by Roger Bacon. | Tiny boys, | 1290 |
50 | Tallow candles first used. | Tiny boys, | 1290 |
51 | Fulminating powder invented by Roger Bacon. | Tiny boys, | 1290 |
52 | Spectacles invented by Spina. | Tin pipe, | 1299 |
53 | Windmills invented. | Tin pipe, | 1299 |
54 | Alum discovered in Syria. | Dumb asses, | 1300 |
55 | Paper made of linen. | Dumb son, | 1302 |
56 | Woollen cloths first made in England. | Dum mood, | 1331 |
57 | Painting in oil colors. | Tortoise, | 1410 |
58 | Muskets used in England. | Throned, | 1421 |
59 | Pumps invented. | Door nail, | 1425 |
60 | Wood-cuts invented. | Dear chase, | 1460 |
61 | Almanacs first published in Buda. | Dear chase, | 1460 |
62 | Printing introduced into England by Caxton.—————————— | Door case, | 1470 |
63 | Watches invented at Nuremberg. | Dark key, | 1477 |
64 | Tobacco discovered in St. Domingo. | Tar patch, | 1496 |
65 | Shillings first coined in England. | Heedlessly, | 1505 |
66 | Stops in literature introduced.—————————— | Idleness, | 1520 |
67 | Spinning-wheel invented at Brunswick | Dull moss, | 1530 |
68 | Pins invented. | Delirium, | 1543 |
69 | Needles first made in England by an Indian. | Tall roll, | 1545 |
70 | Sextant invented by Tycho Brahe. | Tall lace, | 1550 |
71 | Coaches first used in England.—————————— | Tall face, | 1580 |
72 | Telescopes invented by Jansen. | Tall piece, | 1590 |
73 | Thermometers invented by Drehel. | Toyishness, | 1620 |
74 | Barometer invented by Torricelli, an Italian. | Dutch notch, | 1626 |
75 | Regular posts established in London. | Dutch mail, | 1635 |
76 | Coffee brought to England.—————————— | Dashy ride, | 1641 |
77 | Air-pumps invented. | Dashy lace | 1650 |
78 | Air-guns invented by Guter. | Dutch leach | 1656 |
79 | Pendulums for clocks invented. | Dutch latch, | 1656 |
80 | Spring pocket watches invented by Dr. Hook. | Dutch leave, | 1658 |
81 | Engines to extinguish fires. | Dutch chime, | 1663 |
82 | Bayonets invented at Bayonne. | Dutch case, | 1670 |
83 | Telegraphs invented. | Whitish fog, | 1687 |
84 | Georgium Sidus discovered by Herschell. | Dog fight, | 1781 |
85 | Stereotype printing invented by Mr. Ged, Scotland. | Dog fly, | 1785 |
86 | Sunday schools established in Yorkshire. | Talk of a fop, | 1789 |
87 | Galvanism, 1767,—its extraordinary effects on animals discovered by Mrs. Galvani. | Talk of a fop, | 1789 |
88 | Planet Ceres discovered by Piazzi. | Tough sight, | 1801 |
89 | Pallas discovered by Olbers. | Tough sight, | 1801 |
90 | Life boats invented. | Tough sign, | 1802 |
91 | Planet Juno discovered by Harding. | Tough seer, | 1804 |
92 | Vesta discovered by Olbers. | Tough sack, | 1807 |
93 | Steam first used to propel boats, by Fulton, in America.—————————— | ❊Heavy scow, | 1807 |
94 | Engraving on steel first invented by Perkins, an American.—————————— | Tough tough, | 1818 |
95 | Gas first used for lighting streets in the U.S., at Baltimore. | Tough night, | 1821 |
96 | Electro-magnetic Telegraph invented by Morse, America.—————————— | Defy money, | 1832 |
97 | Egyptian hieroglyphics first discovered by Champollion.—————————— | Half known, | 1822 |
98 | Mesmerism, or animal magnetism, discovered by Mesmer. | Thick fife, | 1788 |
99 | Macadamizing streets commenced in London by McAdam. | Definer, | 1824 |
100 | Daguereotype impressions first taken by Daguerre, in France. | Tough map, | 1839 |
IS THE SUN INHABITED?—If (says Arago) this question were simply proposed to me, Is the sun inhabited? I should reply that I know nothing about the matter. But let any one ask of me if the sun can be inhabited by beings organized in a manner analogous to those which people our globe, and I hesitate not to reply in the affirmative. The existence in the sun of a central obscure nucleus, enveloped in an opaque atmosphere far beyond which the luminous atmosphere exists is by no means opposed, in effect, to such a conception.
Sir William Herschel thought the sun to be inhabited. According to him, if the depth of the solar atmosphere in which the luminous chemical action operates should amount to a million of leagues, it is not necessary that the brightness at each point should surpass that of an ordinary aurora borealis. In any case, the arguments upon which the great astronomer relies, in order to prove that the solar nucleus may not be very hot, notwithstanding the incandescence of the atmosphere, are neither the only, nor the best that might be adduced. The direct observation, made by Father Secchi, of the depression of temperature which the points of the solar disc experience wherein the spots appear, is in this respect more important than any reasoning whatever.
"Dr. Elliot maintained, as early as the year 1787, that the light of the sun arose from what he called a dense and universal twilight. He further believed, with certain ancient philosophers, that the sun might be inhabited. When the Doctor was brought before the Old Bailey for having occasioned the death of Miss Boydell, his friends, Dr. Simmons among others, maintained that he was mad, and thought that they could prove it abundantly by showing the writings wherein the opinions which we have just cited were found developed. The conceptions of a madman are in the present day generally adopted."—Arago's Popular Astronomy, Vol. 1, Book 14 Chap.29.
Sir John Herschel concludes that the sun is a planet abundantly stored with inhabitants, his inference being drawn from the following arguments:
On the tops of mountains of a sufficient height, at an altitude where clouds can very seldom reach to shelter them from the direct rays of the sun, we always find regions of ice and snow. Now, if the solar rays themselves conveyed all the heat we find o[covered]his globe, it aught to be hottest where their course is least interrupted. Again, our aeronauts all confirm the coldness of the upper regions of the atmosphere. Since, therefore, even on our earth, the heat of any situation depends upon the aptness of the medium to yield to the impression of the solar rays, we have only to admit that, on the sun itself, the elastic fluids composing its atmosphere, and the matter on its surface, are of such a nature as not to be capable of any excessive affection from its own rays. Indeed, this seems to be proved by the copious emission of them; for if the elastic fluids of the atmosphere, or the matter contained on the surface of the sun were of such a nature as to admit of an easy chemical combination with its rays, their emission would be much impeded. Another well-known fact is, that the solar focus of the largest lens thrown into the air will occasion no sensible heat in the place where it has been kept for a considerable time, although its power of exciting combustion, when proper bodies are exposed, should be sufficient to fuse the most refractory substances.
Down to the year 1831 the orbits of 137 comets were observed; thirty of these lie within the orbit of Mercury.
The question arises, is there a possibility of collision between one of these eccentric bodies and our earth? A calculation of probabilities shows one chance in 281,000,000 chances—small danger! Another question follows: In case of collision would disastrous consequences to our terrestrial planet ensue?
There is satisfactory evidence that the most of these bodies are gaseous, and what danger is to be apprehended from mere aggregations of vapor one may satisfy himself by noting the effects of a collision between a mass of clouds and the mountain top toward which they are attracted. Had the comet of 1770, which passed twice through the system of Jupiter, been one fiftieth of one of his satellites in mass, it would have sensibly affected that system; but instead of deranging the planes of motion or the periods of revolution of any of Jupiter's moons, itself was forced into a new path, as a consequence of its intrusion into Jupiter's family circle. This comet passed nearer the earth than has any other; but not the least disturbance was caused by it. Had its mass been one five thousandth part of the earth, it would have appreciably altered the length of our year. But the action of the earth on the comet increased the time of its revolution by two days. The mass of solid matter possessed by comets must be very small; it is doubted that they have any solid matter. Sir John Herschel saw a group of stars of the sixteenth magnitude in the very center of Biela's comet, in 1832. The nucleus of the comet of 1618 dissolved into several detached parts. Sir John Herschel says: "Whenever powerful telescopes have been turned on them they have not failed to dispel the illusion which attributes solidity to that more condensed part of the head, which to the naked eye appears as a nucleus." Also, Mr. Airy states that "on the physical constitution of comets we have learned nothing, except that they appear to be wholly gaseous."
[cutaway] [begin surface 34]The Eleventh Annual Meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of science was opened this morning.
The Secretary then read the list of papers which had been handed in—only 38 in number—as follows:
Lieut. E. B. HUNT next read a paper upon the ideas of Metaphysical and Physical Infinity. He thought that our ideas of infinity and infinitessimal were usually founded upon the distance of visibility, or the distance between our eyes or upon the length of our steps, and so on. That is, the infinitely great is that which is too great for our conception, and the infinitessimal that which is too small for our conception. Infinity, therefore, is relative to the mind of whose cognition it is predicated. It is negative, not positive; defining the limits of our knowledge. There may be orders of intelligence of varying orders, the infinitely great of one being the infinitely small of the second order above.
[cutaway]
Prof. STEPHEN ALEXANDER introduced his paper upon the Special Harmonies in the distances and periods of the planets, by some remarks on the fallacies which arise from expecting too perfect a symmetry in nature. [cutaway]
Dr. Boynton gave the second of his brilliant course of lectures last night, to another large audience, at the Atheneum, every seat being occupied, and the aisles and gallery crowded. He commenced the history of the earth's formation by showing that there was no discrepancy between Genesis and Geology. The earth was at first a melted mass of rock, produced by chemical action and condensation. Wherever there is a combination of different elements heat is produced. This melted mass, suspended in space, and surrounded by a cold atmosphere, began to cool and form an outer solid crust. This crust composed the granite rock, and was crystalized in cooling. When the earth was in this highly heated condition, the water now on its surface was driven off and existed in the form of vapor: hence the vapor would obscure the central mass and "darkness would be upon the face of the deep." As the earth cooled and formed a crust, this vapor condensed and formed the waters of the oceans. All bodies contract by cooling: the crust of the earth by cooling, contracted, forming wrinkles, producing elevations and depressions. This contraction was illustrated by a wand, which being held in both hands and bent like a bow, when one portion was pressed towards the centre an opposite elevation was produced. By this process and the pressure produced by this contraction on melted masses in the interior of the earth, these melted masses must find vent—hence the bursting out of volcanoes, and the elevation of continents and lands.
If we bury a thermometer fifty feet below the surface of the earth, the mercury will remain at the same point the year round, in winter and in summer, showing that the influence of the sun does not reach below that depth. If we carry the thermometer fifty feet lower, the mercury will rise one degree, and will rise in the same ratio for every fifty feet we go down. It can easily be calculate at what depth all known substances will melt. This would not exceed fifty miles. It was Dr. Boynton's own opinion that the crust did not exceed fifteen miles. It will thus be seen that the crust (or solid part) of the earth is exceedingly thin, in proportion to the size of the egg. With a crust so thin, constantly cooling and producing a pressure upon the interior masses, it is not strange that the bed of oceans should be elevated and form dry land, and continents should sink and form the beds of oceans. As to the depth of seas and oceans, in proportion to the general diameter of the earth, it was not more than would be the vapor left by breathing once on a metal globe 80 inches in diameter. Large mountains have been elevated in a single day, and whole cities have been sunk in the same space of time: The side of a volcanic mountain once broke away, and the liquid mass flowed out, forming a river twelve miles wide, which in its course melted down hills six hundred feet high and filling up valleys six hundred feet deep, and spreading over a surface of eleven hundred square miles.
On the Island of Owyhee there is a volcano now in active operation, the crater of which is three miles wide. In illustration of the subject, Dr. Boynton exhibited three beautiful paintings—the first of which was that of a volcano bursting from the water in the Mediterranean; the second was the same volcano with the fires gone out; the last was the great volcano of Owyhee. These were exceedingly beautiful, and elicited hearty applause from all present. The next lecture will be given tomorrow night.
Dr. Boynton last night brought before his audience a portion of the geological history of the earth which inaugurated the birth of the Reptilian order. Having traced step by step each epoch in that history, until reaching the carboniferous period, he arrived at the markings by which the reptiles left their footprints in the new sand stone. In describing the differences between the inhabitants of land and sea at that period, by which the several orders exhibited some structural similarity to other orders by which they had been succeeded, the lecturer imparted to his explanations the same felicity of illustration as characterized his prevous elucidations. He showed how the fishes presented some peculiarities of organization superior to the reptiles by which they had been succeeded, and the reptiles some characteristics of formation superior to the fishes, and how the new red sand stone and the coal beds became the repositories respectively of the fossils of both orders, with the markings by which their history had been interpreted.
In presenting the progressive stages in this history of the realms of Nature, long before the earth was fit for the abode of man, the explanations by which the resources of comparative anatomy were brought to aid the description of geological formations and their adaptation from peculiarities of climate, &c., to the life they had to support, Dr. Boynton's familiarity with all the connecting branches of natural science brought to each the illustration reciprocally of the other. The history of the foot prints was made peculiarly interesting as showing from the impressions on the rocks the structure and proportions of the animals which had left the records of their habits and conformation where they may receive the interpretations of the naturalist, supplying to him the signs, in the absence of fossil remains, by which he is enabled to read their history.
The lecturer was particularly successful, we thought, in exposing the errors of Lamarkian theory, that each order of animals formed links in one chain of animated being, connecting the superior with the inferior, and making man the off-shoot of the monkey, by successive steps of development. In condemnation of this theory, the lecturer was properly emphatic as degrading the higher to the level of the lower species. He showed how each order was a separate act of creation, and not associated by any general resemblance or apparent similarity of organization, springing one from the other; while he was no less successful in elucidating the manner by which the Creator left no gap in the work—no blank in the diversified succession of the classes of animated being, but filled each space of creation with the creatures the best adapted to move within their peculiar spheres and occupy their appropriate geological period, drawing a line of obvious demarkation between the cold blooded and the warm-blooded animals.
The next lecture will be given on Saturday evening, which will embrace the history of the warm-blooded animals.
[begin surface 42]Notwithstanding the rain last evening, three or four hundred ladies and gentlemen assembled in the Union Chapel, corner of Thirty-ninth street and Broadway, to hear the Rev. Mr. Mattison, late a Professor of Natural Philosophy and Astronomy, deliver a lecture on the great eomet now visible in the western sky. The proceeds of the lecture were to be devoted to the benefit of the Sabbath school.
Rev. Mr. MATTISON, on taking the stand, said we had been recently honored by a strange celestial luminous body in the western sky—one we never looked upon before and shall never look upon again. This strange body had not received near so much attention as it deserved. The notices of it that had appeared in the newspapers had been necessarily meagre, and, as it seemed to him, very like caricatures. Heavenly bodies were divided into the solar and the siderial systems. The speaker then went on to explain some of the primary principles of astronomy. Comets belonged to the solar system; he could not say that they did not belong to other systems, but they did belong to the solar system in great numbers. They were noted for their lightness or rairty , the immense ellipses of their orbits, and for moving around the sun in a direction opposite to that of the planets, as well as in the same direction. He had examined, during the day, the elements of forty-nine comets, twenty-four of which moved round the sun in an opposite direction to the planets. There were millions of these comets constantly circling round the sun, though they were rarely visible to the naked eye. Comets did not manifest the same appearance every time they returned; they varied so much that it was exceedingly difficult to distinguish them on their return. They frequently split into, sometimes divided, into several pieces, and appeared under entirely different aspects. The comet now visible in the western sky was called the Donati comet, from having been first discovered by Donati, in Italy on the 3d of June last. It was the practice among astronomers to name heavenly bodies after the person who discovered them. This comet was first seen in America on the 29th of June last, by a gentleman in New Jersey. A few days after, Miss Mitchell, of Nantucket, saw it. It had been said that this comet was seen three hundred years ago, but he (the speaker) did not believe it. So far as he had examined the charts, this comet bore the most resemblance to one that was seen 331 years before Christ; that would give it a period of 2,500 years. The substance composing comets was very rare. This comet did slightly affect our atmosphere and weather, but it was so slightly that it could not by any device be ascertained or or appreciated. All comets were much more rare than our atmosphere; they were not self-luminous, but only reflectors of the sun's light. He next attempted to explain the philosophy of the comet's tail. He disagreed with Newton upon the subject. According to his idea comets must be propelled by the force of the rays of the sun striking them; and in describing their orbits the denser part of them was attracted and kept in towards the centre of gravity, around which they were revolving. This comet he calculated moved at a rate of 1,500,000 miles an hour; when first seen it headed toward the East when last seen it will head towards the West, as it moves across our heavens, keeping its head alway[illegible] toward the sun. He did not think it would ever retur[illegible] to the solar system again; it probably moved in a parabolic curve—if so, it could never return; but if it moved i[illegible] an elliptical orbit it might.
[begin surface 44]According to the calculations of the astronomers, the comet was last evening to have reached its culmunating point, and its tail to have attained its greatest length. The heavy looking cumbrous clouds which almost overspread the sky, and of which there was a strong reserve on the western horizon, were rather unfavorable for astronomical observations generally, and for an examination of the comet in particular. At least so thought the owner of the big telescope which occupies every night the most conspicious station on the eastern side of the Park, and which has reaped quite a pecuniary harvest for that same owner since the comet made its appearance. But fortune after all proved favorable, the clouds began to clear away as the night came on, and by seven o'clock the prospect was as bright as could be desired. There, amid a bright constellation of stars, the most prominent object among them all was the comet, with its tail lengthened out to its greatest extent, and becoming fainter and broader as it reached its extremity, till its dim and uncertain light faded away until it was lost in the darkness. It was, in fact, almost impossible to see the end of it, for there was no distincly defined line by which it could be marked by the eye, or even by the street telescope; but the astronomers doubtless know all about it, as they have fixed its exact length to a nicety.
Notwithstanding the announcement that the comet would have attained its greatest dimensions last evening, there were very few around the big telescope, and those few did not appear to be astronomically inclined. But if the telescope did not draw a large amount of custom, those who paid their sixpences had the full value of their money in the longer observations which they were enabled to enjoy. There were about seven persons altogether assembled around the instrument, and of these three, of whom the writer was one, paid the required amount for a view of the comet and as much of its tail as they could see through the glass.
"What is the price?" we asked, as we were about to take our stand on the small step ladder which places you within reach of the lower end of the telescope.
"Six cents," was the reply, and it was certainly cheap enough.
"Well, can you see the whole comet?"
"No; the glass only takes in the head—you can only see a portion of the tail."
Thus informed, we mounted the little step ladder, and placing our right eye to the glass, saw the nucleus of the comet, which looked like a fragmentary part of the moon, but with its brightness considerably diminished. The nucleus was surrounded with a still paler light, which seemed to the eye a dim reflection thrown out by itself. Only a portion of the tail was visible, and it was a very small portion, but the rest could be seen in instalments by raising the end of the telescope nearest to yourself. The view thus afforded was rather unsatisfactory, and the impression left on the minds of some was that the comet is a humbug so far as a sight through a street telescope is concerned. But it is worth sixpence after all; and if the charges were a quarter it would be a profitable investment. The flood of dim light which streams out from the nucleus and which forms the tail looks brighter than to the naked eye. No part of the comet shines with the brightness of the stars of the first magnitude, nor can it be properly said to have any brilliancy. The light of the nucleus is, as far as we have said, dimmer than that of the moon, but it is of that character—pale and cold. The curve was, perhaps, more distinctly marked than on any night since its first appearance. After all, however, we are decidedly of the opinion that its appearance to the unaided vision is far preferable to the view obtained of it through the telescope. With the naked eye you can take in its whole dimensions, while the glass gives it to you in some seven or eight instalments, of which one takes in the head, the tail making up the sum total. It has been suggested as a rather serious anomaly that although the comet rejoices in a tail, that caudal appendage has been denied to the dog star.
For the interesting scientific details which we possess on the subject of the comet, we are particularly indebted to two of our astronomers—Messrs. Mitchell and Bond.
We are told of its celestial latitude and longitude with precision, its distance from the earth and length of its tail, although some of our journals have, nevertheless, ventured upon statements and exhibited engraved maps which in this part of the globe, are utterly worthless. But the general character of these strange visitors and the opinions which the learned in our own day entertain of them we are left quite in the dark. A condensation of the latest speculations on this subject, for the gratification of the readers of the HERALD, may, therefore, be interesting at this moment.
The constitution of a comet, when entire, consists of the head or nucleus, the coma or envelope rings, and the tail. Some authorities make no distinction between the rings and the coma. The admirable description given us of the present comet by Professor Mitchell confirms this arrangement. He saw a nearly circular nebulous or luminous envelope of a diameter of 18,000 miles—almost nineteen times that of the moon. We can imagine, perhaps, what an overpowering spectacle an illuminated orb of such dimensions at the distance of the moon would present to our astonished eyes; and what the emotions of the inhabitants of the distant planets must be, if inhabited they are, when these terrific visiters blaze closely in their neighborhood. Lexell's comet, so called after a Russian astronomer, who made it his particular study and became its most attentive observer, though it was a discovery of a Frenchman of the name of Messier, was so completely attracted and disturbed when approaching Jupiter as to alter its path and remain for two elliptical revolutions longer in its vicinity than it otherwise would have done. Nor were the inhabitants of our own planet beyond the chance of a similar spectacle, when on the 1st of July, 1770, this comet was only distant 363 semi-diameters of the earth, or about six times the distance of the moon. Encke's comet crosses the terrestial orbit sixty times in a century, and may some day afford the world a terrific though magnificent sight of this description. Of the true nature of cometic bodies many differing opinions are entertained. Sir John Herschel regards them as masses of thin vapor, capable of reflecting solar rays from their internal as well as their external parts. This theory, which was absolutely necessary to explain the visible phenomena, was proved to be correct by the experiments of the astronomer Arago, with the polariscope, during the visit of Halley's comet in 1835. It is a curious fact that the discovery of Malus, called the polarity or polarization of light, has been made available in astronomy to determine whether a heavenly body shines with inherent or with borrowed light. This principle was applied to comets, and it was thus determined by Arago that they shone by borrowed light. And yet this vapor is a matter also, for it revolves in regular orbits, obeying the laws of attraction and of motion like the solid planets themselves. But though having this amount of density it is less than that of a summer cloud, for the latter will obscure the brightest stars while, on the contrary, stars of an inferior magnitude have been distinctly seen through both the nucleus and the tail of comets. Professor Mitchell, of Cincinnati, mentions that he has seen the faintest telescopic stars shining with undiminished brightness through the vast nebulous matter composing the tail of the present comet. Similar observations have also been made personally by Sir John Herschel, Olbers, Streve, Piazzi Bessel, and others. On the 7th of November, 1828, Streve saw a star of only the eleventh magnitude through the comet of Encke; and Sir John Hershell in 1825 saw through the head of a comet a cluster of stars of the sixteenth magnitude. We must, says Babinet, consider a comet as a species of dust, the grains of which are very much separated (très écartés), a material substance placed at the very confines of existence. Un peu moins de matière, says he, et la comète cessarait d'ètre. While comets themselves have thus been affected by the planets, the planets have in no instance been affected by them. All those old theories, then, of the existence of planets being owing to collisions of comets with the sun or the planets of his system, or such as Whiston put forth as those being the cause of the deluge, may be considered as exploded.
It is also well to notice that none of the comets previously observed have exhibited any well defined disc like solid bodies of the same magnitude and appearance, during the whole of their visibility, and the present one does not differ from its predecessors.
The tails of comets are of different forms, an explanation of which cannot yet be satisfactorily given in conformity with any natural laws with which we are acquainted. Sometimes they appear to be long, narrow lines of light, sometimes their widest part is between the nucleus and end, sometimes they resemble peacocks' tails, and one has been seen with six. Their colors vary also from palel vidness to fiery red, and from blue to green. Again, on the other hand, they appear without any tail, particularly such as is called telescopic, and visible to the eye, like that of Biela.
The heat of these wandering orbs is often intense. That of 1843, which has been described in the HERALD of the 1st instant, was computed to have been 47,000 times greater when near the sun, than any which is ever experienced in our torrid zone. It was twenty-four times greater than is necessary to melt crystal, and 2,000 times hotter than red hot iron; on the contrary, when it reached the other side of the solar sphere its temperature was reduced to about four times that of the torrid zone. It is also asserted that the tail, with the exceptions mentioned, is kept opposite the sun as it moves around it, so that the curve described by the end of the tail is immensely greater than that of the comet itself. As, for example, if the tail of the present comet is six millions of miles, the sweep or curve would be, if circular, eighteen millions. These tails are shot out with amazing force and rapidity. The one now visible was but about two or three degrees when it first appeared; it is now more than twenty. That belonging to the comet of 1680 extended itself in two days more than a hundred millions of miles.
The paths of comets are those produced by the lines of the intersection of a plane with the cone, elliptical when the curve returns to itself after having been drawn out in one direction, the parabolic where the carve partakes of the openness of the ellipse and the hyperbola, and the hyperbola, that most curious of all, which, through a curve, never returns to itself, but is protracted through all infinity. It is produced practically by cutting a cone with a plane parallel to the direction of its axis. Every young mathematical student must remember his surprise on being told of the possibility of drawing such a curve, and of there being the asymptotes, or lines of a hyperbola, always approaching and yet never meeting. And yet, this problem is capable of visible demonstration with a common piece of string. Some comets have actually been observed pursuing one of those endless lines, and are never expected to return. What imagination can contemplate the vastness of this idea, or of the system to which we belong and how absurd are those geologist who believe our own world has existed but 6,000 years! "The earth was at first without form and void," and so are these comets not yet arrested in their course after a destiny of years, the number of which defy all human calculation, and cannot be expressed in any amount of numerals to be found in any human arithmetic.
The periods of comets are determined by what are called their elements. These are:—
So perfect have become our astronomical instruments that these observations can all be accurately made. If the principles on which the astronomers work out their calculations were incorrect, then we should not be able to construct an almanac or an ephemeris, to foretell an eclipse or an occultation, to regulate our clocks or determine the position of a ship at sea, or reach with certainty a wished for port. We can afford to believe these astronomers, then, when they talk to us about comets, and regard observatories with profound interest. Thus it is with perfect confidence we accept the statement of Professor Mitchell, of Cincinnati, when he says that by micrometrical measurement he has ascertained that the distance form the centre of the ring of the present comet to its circumference when he observed it, was nine thousand miles. And here, if our space permitted, we might make some curious explanations of the [covered] necessary [cutaway]ters, distances and motions are computed. The periods of some of the comets, particularly such as have been lately discovered, have been so accurately determined that they reappear with remarkable precision at the expected moment.
One of the peculiarities of the tails of comets is their curvature, such as may be observed in the one now visible, giving it a sabre form, and the curve being towards the direction in which the body is proceeding. It is so in this instance. The comet is proceeding to the west and the curve is opposite and eastward. Their nearness to the sun, or the perihelion distance, varies considerably; their orbits do not partake of the direction or character of the planets, the inclination to the plane of the ecliptic is at all angles, and about half of them of the two hundred whose directions are known, have a retrograde motion—the case with the one now visible.
Those whose periods have been most accurately determined are Halley's, Encke's, Biela's and Faye's. The first was due in 1835, and appeared accordingly. The present one was supposed by Donati, the discoveror, to be identical with that of Fabricius or Charles V. But Babinet denies its identity, because that of Charles went to the east, and this goes to the west, and there is a difference of one hundred degrees in its perihelion. "it is no more to be compared with it," says he, "than the mail from Brest with that of Strasburg." Yet even he has been mistaken in relation to the time of its greatest brightness by at least a month. We are therefore led to believe that this is a new visiter, or else we may suppose that its motion, though elliptical, may be spiral also, as the moon's around the earth, which, when projected upon a map, is a succession of spirals like that of a cork screw when seen at an angle, or scollop edges joined together at each end with a loop. This theory we suggest, without, however, knowing how far it will hold water. It is a suggestion we make as the ink of the preceding paragraph grows dry. If it be objected that the cases are not parallel, we may reply that Herschel thought that the sun has motion, and is carrying with it all his train of planets towards the constellation Hercules. In addition to the periodical comets we have mentioned, there is another claimed to have been discovered in Naples in 1846, by Dr. Peters whom we have reason to suspect is the same astronomer who is mixed up with the difficulty of the Dudley Observatory, and was displaced through the instrumentality of Professor Gould.
From his ephemeris, assigning its probable orbit, it was to appear in twelve or fourteen years; if so, it may be one of the five discovered within the present year, and it is not a little singular that at a meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science, held at Philadelphia a few years since, Professor Gould eulogized Dr. Peters for his service and investigations in this branch of astronomical science.
There are some other curious circumstances relating to our subject, which want of time and space compels us to omit—such as a description of the catalogues of the observed comets; their immense number—supposed by some to be upwards of 20,000—the vibrations of their tails, sometimes distinctly observed, and which some persons think they have detected in the present one; and above all of their uses, the greatest puzzle perhaps of all. Professor Nicholl, of Glasgow, in his work on the Architecture of the Heavens, supposes they have some relation to the nebulosities which exist in remote systems; that they have their root in them, having some important part to play with some grand external scheme of matter, in a state of modification; by Dr. Brindley they are designed to restore the electric equilibrium of the planets. The various speculations of Halley, Arago, and Elie de Beaumont, in relation to the probably effect of a collision of a comet with the earth, have, on a former occasion been fully treated by us in the columns of the HERALD.
[begin surface 46]Now that the memorable Comet of 1858 is making such a magnificent spectacle in the heavens, and will soon disappear, a brief account of some of the most famous of these apparitions, and the theories of distinguished philosophers respecting them, will, perhaps, be interesting.
In 1106 there appeared a splendid comet, visible in the daytime all over Europe. It presented the appearance of a fiery beam, stretching from the west toward the north-cast regions of the heavens. The comet of 1264, noticed alike by European and Chinese historians, and popularly believed to announce the death of Pope Urban IV., which really happened in October following, had a tail which stretched across more than half the visible heavens! It is supposed to have been identical with that of 1556, its return is not confidently looked for by astronomers. In 1402 were seen two of the most brilliant on record, one of which spread, after sunset, a magnificent tail 90° long. Both were visible by day. In 1456, the people of Europe were thrown into consternation by the appearance of a comet simultaneously with the fall of Constantinople before the Turks. Comet and Turk were deprecated together, and against the twain was launched the Pope's anathems. It exhibited a tail 60° long. To this comet, on its third subsequent reappearance in 1682, Halley give his name, by being the first to compute its elements. Its period of orbital revolution is some 75 years. The seventeenth century presents a fertile record of cometic phenomena. It 1618, appeared a stranger which surpassed in its train that of 12364, having at one time a tail which measured 101°! One appeared in 1652, which Bevelius describes as being of the size of a half-moon, though having a pale and dismal light. In 1668 another appeared, most brilliant in the south of Europe and in Brazil.
In 1680 came one of the most remarkable on record; and to it belongs the glory of having come under the God-like gaze of Newton, and of having furnished him with data for proving that the movements of comets depend upon the same principles as control the planets in their orbits. This body passed within 150,000 miles of the sun, and at a speed of 880,000 miles per hour! then swept off into space again toward its farther goal, 80,000,000,000, or according to other calculations, 400,000,000,000 miles distant!
in 1689 a comet shone which drew a train of light 68° degrees long. There are grounds for supposing this to be identical with that of 1843.
The eighteenth eentury was distinguished by two comets of remarkable aspect. In 1744, came into view one of the few recorded to have been seen in full sunshine. On the 1st of Feburuary , it was more brilliant than Sirius; on the 8th it equalled Jupiter; on the 1st of March, at 1 o'clock p. m., five hours after its perihelion passage, it was visible to the naked eye. Another in 1769 spanned the heavens with an immense train of light. The first comet of 1811 was remarkable for the length of time it remained visible. That of 1843 us regarded as on of the most wonderful of modern times. It was visible in Bologna, Italy, at noon, two diameters of the sun's disc east of the sun, while passing its perihelion, being then only 96,000 miles distant from that luminary, and its speed 366 miles per second, or 1,317,600 per hour; so, that in twelve minutes it must have passed over a space equal to the distance between the earth and its moon! When its distance from the sun allowed it to be visible after sunset, it presented an appearance of extraordinary magnificence, especially in tropical latitudes. Some astronomers have computed it to have a period of 3,767 years! In July, 1844, one appeared, which has been estimated to have a period of 100,000 years! In 1846, Biela's comet, which is one of the class of "comets of short period," revolving in about 6 2/3 years, startled observers by dividing itself in two, and so passing on its path out of sight! The estimated numbers of comets of which we have account, is upward of 600, nearly all of which are telescopic, and have no tails, though some have appeared with as many as six!
The fewness of their visits and the farness between, the enormous extent of the orbits of some of them, stretching, perhaps, far beyond the limits of our solar system, coming up from the unfathomed depths of space to gleam a few brief days in our sky, and then diving down again out of telescopic sight, on their long but swift journey, it may be to other planetary systems, never to be beheld again by the denizens of our earth, the wonderful tenuity of their substance, and the variety of the hypotheses which different philosophers have offered to account for the phenomena they present, make them an object of sublime interest to the astronomer.
Comets move, commonly, in elliptical orbits of great eccentricity—those of "short period" having their orbits within that of Neptune.
The star-gazer is ever on the lookout for these erratic strangers, poring over the open page, whose letters are worlds, peering, with his far-searching lenses, everywhere between the twinkling, constant little stars, too happy if some wayward little body come dancing into the field of this instrument, and make him its first discoverer. It grows rapidly, sailing out of one constellation into another, and gradually assumes, as it nears the sun, a sort of nebulous hood. This enveloping hood soon lengthens out behind it, forming a train of thin light, which is largest and brightest a little after the passage of the perihelion. This train is always on the side of the comet which is opposite to the sun—a generalization not made by European observers till the time of Appian, 1531, though understood among the Chinese as early as 871. The nucleus or head of a comet when viewed through a powerful glass has the appearance of an irresolvable nebula, or patch of fog, the lens having the effect to diffuse rather than define its outline. The rail has the same hazy character and is of inconceivable tenuity, the smallest telescopic star being visible through it without the slightest appreciable diminution of light, though, according to Herschel, the thickness of this cometic matter, in the comet of 1811, was 15,000,000 miles!
The tails of comets vary in length as seen from different places. That of 1680 had a train 60° long, as measured at Paris, and 90° at Constantinople. That of 1769 extended, on the 9th September, of 43° at London, 55° at Paris, 60° at the Isle of Bourbon, and 75° at Teneriffe—showing that the length of the tail depends on the state of the atmosphere. The length is often enormous—the comet of 1843 being estimated by Prof. Peirce to have a train streaming out 200,000,000 miles into space, or once and a half the distance of the sun from the earth! and all this formed in some three weeks.
The incalculable subtlety of the diffused cometic matter may be inferred from the fact that they have been sometimes known to pass within close proximity to planetary bodies without deranging the motions of the latter in the least perceptible degree. Bexell's comet of 1770 dashed into the midst of the system of Jupiter's satellites without at all affecting their movements. A curious calculation is recorded of Sir Isaac Newton, that if a globe of common atmospheric air, one inch in diameter, were expanded so as to have an equal degree of rarity with the air situated at an elevation of 4,000 miles above the earth's surface, "it would fill the whole planetary regions as far as the sphere of Saturn, and would extend a great deal further." Now, if this enormous extent of attenuated matter can be conceived to be endowed with luminous properties, whether from reflecting the sun's rays, or from its own inherent physical constitution, we can form, proximately, some sort of a realizing sense of the nature of the magnificent feather which now adorns the starry heavens. On this point the speculations of philosophers are interesting.
Before the time of Tycho Brahé European observers had not ventured to refer cometic apparitions to regions beyond the moon's orbit, and supposed them indeed to be substances generated within the earth's atmosphere. The Danish astronomer, however, from observations upon the comet of 1577, proved that these bodies move in orbits beyond the earth's satellite, and were therefore of permanent structure, and independent of the earth. From observing that comets, as the emerge from the depths of space, are nothing but mere specs of nebulosity, which is gradually prolonged into a train as they approach the sun, it was inferred that comets are, in their normal condition, spherical masses, like planets, and that their tails are due, in some unknown way, to the sun. Some early observers supposed the tail was owing to the passage of the sun's rays through the nebulosity of the head, producing an effect similar to what is seen when an beam of the sun pours through an aperture into a darkened room. The Cartesian school referred the effect to the refracting of light, in its passage from the comet to the eyes of the observer, through the celestial ether disseminated through space. If this theory be true, it has been significantly asked, why have the planets and fixed stars no tails? Mairan thought the effect proceeded from the same cause as that which produces the aurora borealis.
The illustrious astronomer, Kepler, who flourished early in the seventeenth century, was the first to offer a rational explanation of this phenomenon. He supposed that the constituent matter of the comet is broken by the action of the solar rays, and the lighter particles impelled to immense distances. Newton conjectured that, as the nebulous particles of the comet become heated by the sun, they communicate a portion of their heat to the contiguous particles of etherial fluid composing the sun's atmosphere. These particles so heated (by reflection, as it were), suffer a corresponding diminution of density, and are repelled from the sun, carrying them with them just as an upward current of air causes smoke to ascend. But all hypotheses must be vague where there are so few well-ascertained data. The great discoveries made of late in electrical forces promise to throw new light upon this profoundly interesting subject.
The close approach of some comets to the sun in their perihelion passage, as, for example, in the case of the great comet of 1843, before mentioned, and the immense distances to which they sometimes recede from him in their aphelia, immeasurable beyond the utmost known limits of our solar system, have led astronomers to infer that comets are subjected, in the course of their orbital revolution, to an amazing degree of heat and cold.
Newton calculated that the comet of 1680 was subjected, at its perihelion distance of 150,000 miles, to a degree of heat 2,000 times that of red-hot iron! While, according to Herschel, the comet of 1843, which passed within 96,000 miles of the sun, received, at its perihelion, an amount of heat equivalent to that of 47,000 suns blazing in our sky! It can scarcely be supposed that matter can be subjected to such a degree of heat without having its structure destroyed. Laplace availed himself of Black's beautiful discovery of latent heat to avoid this difficulty, and taught that when a body is passing from a liquid to a gaseous state, its particles, as they become successively volatilized, abstract from the body large quantities of calorie, and so serve to moderate the temperature of the condensed portion; and, conversely, that this latent calorie is given back by the volatilized matter in the course of its return to a liquid state. So that a comet, whether swinging in its orbit a few thousands of miles from its local source of heat and attraction, or many thousands of millions of miles distant, may preserve an approximate constancy of temperature under the operation of this beautiful law of compensation.
Astronomers often differ widely in their calculations of a comet upon its first appearance; and as, according to Prof. Norton, not more than one-half of all the comets which are recorded to have appeared during the last two thousand years have returned twice to their perihelia, it must be admitted that the amount of well-digested knowleege of their motions and physical constitution can be but small. This much, however, seems to be conceded— that they have an atmosphere, in which the nebulous matter of them floats as clouds do in ours; that the aggregate amount of matter they contain, compared with the least of the heavenly bodies known to us, is exceedingly small; that the tail is constituted of the subtlest portions of the cometic matter, diffused by solar agency; that their orbits are parabolic, or ellipses of great eccentricity; that they are liable to great changes in their periods of revolution, being sometimes made to revolve in orbits, with a quickened or retarded motion, by the attraction of foreign bodies into whose neighborhood they may pass in the course of their eccentric career; and, thus, that of the thousands of comets which are supposed to have our sun for a focus, all, except the half dozen of short periods, must ever elude the grasp of human calculation; and, finally, that some have appeared which will not probably ever revisit our earth! Well we may say, with the sweet Psalmist of Israel: "Whither shall I go from Thy spirit? or whither shall I feel from Thy presence? If I ascend up into heaven, Thou art there: if I make my bed in hell, behold Thou art there. If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea, even there shall Thy hand lead me, and Thy right hand shall hold me."
[begin surface 48]ART. II.— The Physical Atlas; a Series of Maps and Notes illustrative of the Geographical Distribution of Natural Phenomena. By Alex. Keith Honston, F. R. G. S., F. G. S. Imperial Folio, 30 maps and 94 pp. Letter-press. London and Edinburgh, 1848.
2. The Physical Atlas of Natural Phenomena. Quarto edition. Part I. Reduced from the edition in Imperial Folio, for the use of colleges, Academies, and Families. London and Edinburgh, 1849.
The periodical literature of a people embodies very intelligibly the kind and extent of social and intellectual progress they have attained at the moment of its appearance. What the many read must accord in the main with the tastes and opinions of the many for the time; And as soon as tastes and opinions change, the hue and tone of periodical literature will change also. But it is only the lighter and more popular tastes of a nation which its periodical literature can be expected to reflect: we must look elsewhere for evidence of their solid acquirements, and of the nature, indeed, of their more permanent and established taste.
It is when a large and expensive work, like that now before us, issues from the press, that we can reasonably infer that the subject of which it treats has already taken hold of the public mind; and has obtained a place among the intellectual wants of the country in which it appears. And the inference will be strengthened where, as in the present instance, the larger work is attended by a humbler companion, fitted for the school and the schoolmaster. Such publications assume that the old and the young, the rick and the poor, are joining in demand.
In this point of view, British science has reason to congratulate herself on the appearance of these Physical Atlases, and may point to them with some degree of pride; for even abstruse departments of natural knowledge must have been popularised among us, before publishers could be encouraged to make the necessary efforts for rendering their beautiful results accessible to all. Inddeed, though Oxford and Cambridge have hitherto done but little for the advancement of this kind of knowledge, we are satisfied, from our own experience of other countries, that in no part of Europe are the sciences of observation so generally appreciated, and so widely diffused among the mass of ordinarily-educated people, as in our own.
The Physical Atlas of Mr. Keith Johnston comprises four series of maps: a geological series of ten maps; a meteorological series of five maps; a hydrographical series of six maps; and a phytological and zoological series of nine maps.
The first series contains four maps of the mountain systems and chains of Europe, Asia, and America; one of the glacier regions of the Alps; two of the most remarkable volcanic phenomena; one double map, representing the general geological structure of the globe; and two single maps, the special structure of the British Isles.
The second series consists of physical charts of the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans; maps of the river systems of Europe, Asia, and America; and a tidal chart of the British Seas.
The third series represents the isothermal lines and lines of equal barometric pressure, in one map; the geographical distribution of hurricanes, typhoons, and other aërial disturbances, in a second; the polarising structure of the atmosphere in a third; and in two hyetographic maps, the general distribution of rain over the whole world, and its more special distribution over the surface of Europe.
The fourth series exhibits the geographical distribution of plants in general in one map, and that of the plants which serve as food for man in another; and that of the mammiferous, the carnivorous, and the ruminant animals respectively, in three maps; that of birds and reptiles, in two maps; and, in two more, the ethnography of Europe and that of the British Islands.
For the idea of these interesting maps we are indebted to the illustrious Humboldt; for the first execution of them to Professor Berghaus, of Berlin; and for the present improved, enlarged, and beautifully-executed Atlas to the hands and head of Mr. Keith Johnston, of Edinburgh.*
* Other works of this kind, more comprehensive in some senses, but of a more special kind, have been projected in other countries, but are almost all as yet unexecuted. Of these, the linear and shaded maps of criminal statistics by M. Guerry are an admirable example, and are now ready for the press. The one which embraces the widest range of subjects is the 'Administrative and Statistical Atlas of Belgiuim:' it is projected by the well known geographer of Brussels, M. Van der Maelen, in co-operation with the eminent statist M. Heuschling, to whom Belgian statistics are under so many obligations. Its title and proposed contents are as folows: —
'"Atlast Administratif et Statistique du Royaume de Belgique," dressé et publié en collaboration avec M. Xavier Heuschling, par Philippe Van der Maelen.
'Cet atlas se composera d'une série de cartes construites à l'échelle de 1 à 400,000 sur une feuille grand colombier. Chaque carte, comprenant toutes les communes du Royaume avec leur circonscription territoriale, sera consacrée à une branche spéciale de l'administration ou à une partie de la
[begin surface 50]From a work so rich in information, and so varied in its materials, it is almost impossible to select and compress into a moderate compass any thing which will give the general reader a satisfactory idea of its character and contents. It is a merit which may justly be conceded to these thirty maps, that almost every one of them embodies the materials of many volumes—the results of long years of research—and exhibits the most valuable thoughts of the most distinguished men of the age, pictured visibly to the eye.
It might appear at first sight, and especially to the unlearned into whose hands the Atlas should come, as if the subjects illustrated in these maps had been taken at random out of the vast domain of natural knowledge, in order to form the book; as if the races of men and the distribution of birds and reptiles had no connexion whatever with geological strata and fossils, or with Alpine glaciers; as if the geographical distribution of plants, the polarisation of the atmosphere, and the tides, temperatures, storms, soundings, and currents of our seas and great oceans, were subjects wide apart from each other; as if the position and parallelism of mountain chains, or of active and extinct volcanoes, the distribution of typhoons, the course and limits of Indian hurricanes, the sources and directions of rivers, the regions which nourish the various plants on which we live, and the study of the races of men who, from time to time, have conquered and peopled the different parts of our own islands, were fields of research so discontiguous and remote, that even philosophers might long traverse them all without once meeting on any common ground.
But far different is the expectation of the eager scholar, who has once looked over Humboldt's ' Kosmos,' or Mrs. Somerville's 'Connection of the Sciences.' He enters on the examination of the various branches of natural knowledge in the well-grounded confidence that they will be found to constitute a harmonious WHOLE, closely cemented in all its parts. And though any work on the phenomena of nature which should embody even all we at present know would still exhibit many large gaps, yet the instructed eye will perceive a common unity pervading all, and points of connexion among the most distant and apparently discordant topics of which it treats. So a uniting thread may be traced through the varied subjects delineated in the maps of this Physical Atlas, and discussed in its letter-press;—a thread which untwists, as you follow it, into many strands, representing different trains of thought—any one of which will lead us from map to map in search of reasons for the new facts that successively strike us, and will bring us at last to the ethnographic series—to Man himself, and his varieties, as palpably and intimately concerned with the first of the topics, whatever that may be, with which we had set out.
We shall better succeed, we believe, in imparting to our readers some conception of the multifarious and yet singularly well digested information comprised in the present work, by asking them to accompany us in tracing a few of the connecting links which the series of maps thus presents to an intelligent student, than by any catalogue or specimens of their contents. We propose, therefore, to select a leading train of thought suggested by one of the earliest maps, and shall see how far, in following it out, the succeeding maps will furnish us with the materials necessary for our progress.
Turn, for example, to the first or geological series, and, among these, to that which represents the geology or palæontology of the British Isles, coloured under the direction of Professor Edward Forbes. How rich in obvious instruction,—how suggestive of interesting thought and inquiry, is this map! The various colours represent, not only the various rocky formations, but diversified mineral productions also, and different agricultural capabilities and tendencies. They indicate where great cities establish themselves, and why; what brings masses of people together in particular localities, of what special class this population is composed, and what are likely to be its moral and social dispositions; why one
statistique, d'après un système arrêté a l'avance. Ainsi il y aura une carte pour chacune des divisions communale et provinciale, judiciaire, ecclesiastique, militaire, etc.; des cartes historique et archéologique, hydrographique et orographique, météorologique et méicale, géologique, botanique, zoologique, agricole, forestière et minérale, industrielle et commerciale, financière, douanière, domaniale, electorale; des cartes pour les voies de communication, les postes et messageries, pour la population absolue et relative, par langues et dialectes, par cultes, par professions et conditions sociales, pour la mortalité et la reproduction, pour la bientfaisance, le paupérisme, la criminalité et les prisons, pour l'instruction publique, les sciences, les lettres et les arts. Un texte explicatif et descriptif, donné en marge, complétera les détails de chaque carte; les renseignement seront puisés aux meilleures sources et dans les documents les plus récents. En un mot, les auteurs se proposent d'appliquer à l'administration et à la statistique générale du pays, la pensées de Condorcet lorsqu'il prédit l'époque où l'état de nos connaissances ne pourra plus être exposé que dans des tableaux synoptiques.' What a mass of interesting information such a book would contain! but what dozen men are equal to the compilation of it? [begin surface 51]manufacture takes root on this spot, and another on that; why here corn waves, or cattle fatten, or sheep crop the springing herbage; why here the rich proprietor and the wealthy farmer live together in comfort, and encourage each other in progressive improvement—why there husbandry is backward, the proprietor in difficulties, and the cultivator wasting life and means in a heartless struggle.
It must be well known to most of our readers that the black spots of varied extent and form, which here and there stand out like blots on the surface of a geological map of Great Britain, indicate the districts in which mineral fuel is found and is more or less extensively dug up. Upon such black spots, therefore, on whatever map they are seen, it is almost certain that a large population either already exists, or will spring up at some future period; that the employment of this population will be in mining for coal—in digging or smelting the ores of iron or copper or lead—in moulding and baking pottery—in fabricating machinery and other works in metal—in manufacturing glass, or alkali, or alum—in converting the raw cotton and wool and flax into woven and printed cloths of various texture—or in some of those many other arts which busy themselves with crude materials on a large scale, and which require much mechanical power at a cheap rate, to admit of their being economically carried on.
The natural reason for the growth of large towns and crowded populations, for a principal class at least, such as Swansea, Bristol, Merthyr-Tydvil, Nottingham, Wolverhampton, Birmingham, Sheffield, Leeds, Manchester, and Glasgow,—(since other considerations give importance to London, Liverpool, Dublin, Cork, Belfast, &c.,)—is to be found in the geological structure of the rocks on which the people live. And as long as crowded haunts are permitted to breed pestilence and immorality, an inspection of the map will enable us to pronounce also on the social and moral condition, actual or future, of the inhabitants—and to tell both in what way and to what extent they contribute to the general wealth and power of the state, and what care and provision of moral and intellectual superintendence ought to be assured to them in return.
Again, at the southern extremity of Lanarkshire, where it touches Dumfries, and is bordered by the still infant streams of the Nith and the Clyde, our map indicates a region of lead mines, the dwelling-place of a thoughtful, intelligent, book-loving, faithful, and steadfast people. Upon the Allan, and the Wear, and the Tees, in Northumberland and Durham and among the higher Yorkshire dales, there are similar mines, and a similar people: and so where Derby boasts its Peak and the country round Matlock likened to the Vale of Tempe, and in Flint and Devon, and in ancient mining Cornwall, where tin and copper have been followed deeper into the bowels of the earth than in any other part of the world. These seats of buried riches are at once visible upon the map; while to the instructed eye it also points out in them the home of a peculiar race of people—higher altogether in mental habits, in morals, and in enterprise, than what other and perhaps neighbouring spots are nourishing. And when on the geological maps of other countries similar colours present themselves, they tell of similar mineral accumulations, and of the probable existence, actual or future, of an equally ingenious, hardy, and persevering people.
Without dwelling further on the fund of thought, hidden, so to speak, beneath the varied colours of a geological map, we may at once assume, that the mineral riches which these colours intimate, prove likewise the existence of materials for exchange and exportation, either native and raw, or manufactured into various products of skilled labour. Such materials necessarily give rise to commercial intercourse with other countries, and to a demand for that varied knowledge of the resources of those countries, and of their coasts and seaports and rivers which the foreign merchant must possess, and that familiarity with the physical-history of the seas, which is indispensable to a navigator, and which the book before us embodies. Led by such reflections we might proceed to the other charts and maps of the Physical Atlas, and show how one train of thought connects each of them in succession with the geological map of the British Islands, from which we started:—how the meteorological and hydrographical series are rich in the kind of information which an educated seaman must delight to have before him, and how the entire phytological series forms a species of vade-mecum for the enlightened British merchant.
But we prefer to follow another train of thought, suggested by the palæontological map, which to our minds is more striking, and will, we think, prove both more interesting and more instructive to the reader. To the student of Agriculture in its largest sense, the colours of a geological map are especially instructive. They tell him the where and the wherefore, in reference to many of the most interesting questions which
[begin surface 52]bear on rural progress and agricultural history.
In every country of Europe there are tracts of land which from the most remote antiquity have been more densely peopled than the surrounding regions. These are the districts which, on the arrival of the earliest settlers, were found in their natural state to be susceptible of easy and profitable arable culture. Soils easily laboured and moderately pervious to water invited the earliest husbandman, and with least toil yielded the heaviest crops of corn. Other tracts, again, have grown during all historic time a perennial herbage, where cattle graze or sheep fatten, which the plough has rarely violated, and seldom with a profit to the over-venturesome husbandman. On others, again, poverty prevails both in corn and cattle; with chilly fields or wind-obeying sands and penurious homesteads; and broad bands seen to cross whole kingdoms—sometimes naturally to separate them—on which even modern skill and enterprise have failed as yet to raise up vegetable luxuriance and rural plenty.
A geological map rightly understood indicates of itself where these several agricultural differences naturally exist: for the soils partake of the general characters of the rocks by the crumbling of which they are formed; and the colours of the map show the limits to which these several rocks extend.
In Great Britain generally, the old and new red sand-stones, and in Scotland the trap rocks also, have formed and generally sustain soils of easy culture, which have been subject to the plough for the longest period, and on which the most ancient villages and church towns exist. The long undulating stripe of lias clay, which winds with varying breadth and outline from the mouth of the Tees to Lyme Regis, and the Oxford clay and that of the Weald, are covered by soils too stubborn in their native state to yield at the proper seasons to the persuasions of the harrow and the ploughshare;—and accordingly experience has taught the farmer to leave them in perpetual grass. And if the eye be turned to the northern side of the Scottish border, a tract of country of a greyish tint is seen to stretch from St. Abb's Head on the east, to the Mull of Galloway on the west, characterised by poor soils and humbler farmers,—over which cold inky lochs and wide heaths, at not unfrequent intervals, arrest the traveller on his way.
A geological map, therefore, is an invaluable storehouse of agricultural information. These tints which variegate its surface express diversities of soil, inheriting different agricultural qualities; and these qualities determine the nature of the crops which can be the most profitably grown, the kind of improvement which is required, and the pecuniary outlay which is most likely to be repaid. And what makes this knowledge the more important, is the interesting fact, to which we have alluded,—that what is true of soils represented by a given colour in one country is generally true of those represented by the same colour in another. Thus the agricultural experience of a particular region, instead of having a merely local value, as men used to think, become incorporated with the common experience and knowledge of mankind. Other things being equal, the same colours indicate soils generically the same; the culture, which succeeds on them in one part of the world, ought to succeed in others; the same implements should be required, the same grains and roots grown, the same stock thrive, the same improvements be attempted; and, with equal skill and prudence, equal profits might be expected.
How simple and yet how large the views which the statesman may derive from the study of this branch of science! The agricultural resources and capabilities of the various countries of the globe are uncovered, as it were, to the eye; and with these, the springs of their past difficulties or greatness, their powers of actual resistance or endurance, their prospects in future time, their value as conquests or colonies.
Of such views, the most extensive and most comprehensive are to be obtained from the second chart of this series—the chart which exhibits the geological structure of the entire globe, according to the researches of M. Ami Boué.
There are some among us who of late years have delighted in holding up Russia and the United States, as objects of our political apprehension. When they learn to decipher the tints of the map of which we are speaking, they will probably think themselves entitled to draw from them still more alarming prognostications. Judging from the wealth and power which her small patch of blue has given to England, we may augur a lofty after-history to the empire of the Autocrat, as well as to our relatives beyond the Atlantic. But this lofty future England hopes to see and share; she does not fear it. Mental and moral culture are now inseparable, we think, from physical and material development; and we have the consolation of believing that the freaks of power in past ages will become impossible among our posterity.
We have said that, other things being equal,
[begin surface 53]the colours of the geological map indicate certain almost universal agricultural truths. But many circumstances occur in nature to alter the conditions, and more or less effectually to modify the conclusions to which geological data alone would lead us. Among these, the most influential are the several elements which are comprehended under the general term of climate. We must turn our attention, therefore, to a few of these; and see how far and in what parts of the earth they interfere with our wider deductions.
British crops during the past harvest suffered from unseasonable, and, in some places, overwhelming rains. The fall of rain, therefore, is to be taken into account as an element of climate, which will always be likely to affect our reasonings on agricultural capabilities. Nothing is more certain than that the amount of rain and the seasons of its descent determine in a great degree the nature of the husbandry of every country. Of this the most complete and instructive illustrations are presented by the two rain maps which are comprised in the meteorological series of the Atlas.
Like the shadows of clouds scattered over an April sky, dark spots rest on various parts of the rain map of the world. The Indian islands, and China, and the shores of Hindostan, and the central zones of Africa and America, and our own Britain and Ireland, lie in the blackest shade. They are, in reality, the oftenest clouded over, and the most frequented by rain. The bright sunshine which rests on Northern Africa, and Central Asia, and on the shores of Mexico and Peru, tells of perpetual drought, and barrenness, and sand; while the dark riband which encircles the globe a few degrees north of the equator, is resonant with the fearful thunder of the tropical regions, accompanied by deluges of rain which rarely cease.
But from the rain map of the wide world, we willingly turn to that of Europe—and resume our thread of agricultural observation. On comparing the indications of productive capability which this map exhibits with those of the geological charts, we observe that in some places the two concur, while in others they are opposed. In some districts, which by their geological structure are naturally arable, the quantity of rain, the months in which it comes down, and the number of rainy days are all in favour of cereal culture; while in others the quantity of rain, or the season of its fall, is such as to condemn the country to pasture only, or to cover it with unprofitable bogs.
To those who interest themselves with the general advance of European agriculture, the lines and shadings of this map have much meaning. We have said that, generally speaking, similar colours on the geological maps of two countries indicate not only similar soils, but similar methods of improving them. Now improvement by drainage is a method which, in Great Britain and Ireland, is universally acknowledged to be of the first importance and of the most certain profit. We sometimes express our wonder, therefore, that the other nations of Europe are so slow in following our example. But the fall of rain, no less than the nature of the soil, is an element in every question concerning the necessity or propriety of drainage. Now the former of these elements is supplied by the map before us for every part of Europe; and it is satisfactory to learn from it that the experience of the British islands, and especially of the best cultivated parts of Scotland, is directly applicable to large portions of Europe, and supports the general expediency of thorough drainage wherever the nature of the soil would otherwise warrant an opinion in its favour.
But the temperature of the air in any particular place has also an important bearing upon the actual productiveness of its soil, whatever may be its mineral character, and however propitiously the rains may fall upon it. To study this point, we must turn to the lines of equal mean temperature, the isothermal lines of Humboldt, which are delineated on the first map of the meteorological series. To the numerous questions—historical, social, and sanatory—which the study of these lines and of the letter-press which accompanies them is fitted to suggest or answer, it would lead us from our immediate subject even to advert. That the land is permanently frozen in Labrador and Kamschatka, in a latitude as southerly as Dublin, while it annually thaws in Lapland, and suffers itself to be tilled and cropped almost to the North Cape, in the high latitude of seventy degrees; that in North-western America, in like manner, far within the Russian limits, the line of permanent ground frost bends northwards to the fifty-sixth, and in North-western Europe to the seventieth degree, while towards the South Pole it binds up every known spot of land south of sixty degrees :—these facts, besides their interest in other points of view, especially illustrate the value and necessity of a chart of isothermal lines to a clear understanding not only of the agricultural capabilities of a country, but also of the extent to which we ought to confide in the partial generalisations on the subject, to which other considerations may have predisposed us.
[begin surface 54]narrow circular valleys surrounded by lofty walls, circus-like cauldrons which, as in Greece and a portion of Asia Minor, give individual local characters to the climate, in respect of warmth, moisture, frequency of winds and storms, and transparency of the atmosphere,'—and the numerous illustrations of such facts which they afford, are highly worthy of the attention of our readers. But we pass on to another less known and obvious, but very interesting, influence upon vegetable growth which others of these maps place before our eyes.
We are familiar with the effect of prevailing winds or currents of air in forwarding or retarding vegetation, in every part of the globe; and also with the modifying influence of large bodies of water on the climate of the adjoining land. But the special effect of currents of water, of those mighty sea rivers which in various directions traverse the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, is not so generally understood. In the physical charts of these oceans which the 'Atlas' contains, the course, extent or size, velocities and temperatures of these great sea rivers, are by shaded outlines and numerous notes made distinctly intelligible. We notice only two or three of the facts connected with them, which bear upon the subject of practical agriculture.
The Gulf Stream, as it is called, has been heard of by every one. Commencing to the south of the Cape of Good Hope, it crosses the southern Atlantic, enters the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, and by the Straits of the Bahamas rushes again eastward, at the rate of 40 to 100 miles a day, along the coast of America, and the banks of Newfoundland, till it strikes against the Spanish and French coasts, or, rushing further north among the Hebrides and the inlets of the Norwegian coast, finally loses itself in the Arctic Sea, and towards the shores of Spitzbergen.
The waters of this great river are warmer than those through which they flow—especially than those of the Northern Atlantic—by many degrees; and thus they carry warmth with them to whatever shores they come.
An inspection of the maps of isothermal lines, and of the geographical distribution of cultivated plants, will bring under the eye of the reader the remarkable curve which the isotherm of thirty degrees and the isothere of fifty take towards the North Cape; and will show him how the geographical limit of the growth of barley bends in like manner,—enabling the Laplanders to live and to cultivate grain, in a latitude which in every other region of the globe is subjected to undissolving frost. That the warmth borne towards this region by the ever-flowing gulf stream is one cause of this remarkable bend in the lines of warmth, and of the consequent extension of the limits of human habitation and of the growth of corn, shows what a close connexion may subsist between the most remote studies and pursuits; and how much the rewards even of skilful labour, and the value of whole regions of country may be dependant upon causes the least dreamt of or generally suspected. Stop the gulf stream, or turn it southward or westward, when it reaches the centre of the Northern Atlantic, and ice and unmelted snow would cover Lapland and Norway with a continuous glacier; and life and culture would disappear, not only on the western Scandinavian borders, but in all probability on the northern parts of our own island.
The mariner who first crossed the central Atlantic in search of a new world, was astonished when, on the 19th of September, 1492, he found himself in the midst of that great bank of sea-weed—the sea-weed meadow of Oviedo—the Sargasso Sea,* which, with a varying breadth of 100 to 300 miles, stretches over twenty-five degrees of latitude, covering 260,000 square miles of surface, like a huge floating garden, in which countless myriads of minute animals find food and shelter. Now, it is the eddy of the numerous sea rivers which collect in one spot, and the cold water of the Northern Atlantic mixing with the warm streams of the western and southern currents, which produce the temperature most fitted to promote the amazing development of vegetable and animal life. What becomes of the dead remains of this vast marine growth? Do they decompose as fast as they are produced? or do they accumulate into deposits of peculiar coal, destined to reward the researches of future geologists and engineers, when the Atlantic of our day has become the habitable land of an after time?
In the chart of the Pacific Ocean we are presented with another remarkable instance of the influence of sea rivers on vegetation. From the shores of South Victoria on the Antarctic continent, a stream of cold water, sixty degrees in width (the reader will recollect that in high latitudes the degrees of longitude are very narrow), drifts slowly along in a north-east and easterly direction across the southern Pacific, till it impinges upon the South American coast to the south
*Sargasso Sea of the Spanish and Portuguese, Kroos Zee of the Dutch, and Grassy Sea of the English navigators. [begin surface 55]of Valparaiso. There it divides into two arms; one of which stretches south and east, doubles Cape Horn, and penetrates into the south-western Atlantic; the other flows first north-east and then north-west along the shores of Chili and Peru, carrying colder waters into the warm sea, and producing a colder air along the low plains which stretch from the shores of the Pacific to the base of the Andes. This current, discovered by Humboldt, and called after his name, lowers the temperature of the air about twelve degrees; while that of the water itself is sometimes as much as twenty-four degrees colder than that of the still waters of the ocean through which it runs. The cold air seriously affects the vegetation along the whole of this coast: at the same time, that the cold stream raises fogs and mists, which not only conceal the shores and perplex the navigator, but extend inland also, and materially modify the climate.
The beautiful and beneficent character of this modifying influence becomes not only apparent but most impressive, when we consider, as the rain map of the world shows us, that on the coast of Peru no rain ever falls; and that, like the desert Sahara, it ought therefore to be condemned to perpetual barrenness. But in consequence of the cold stream thus running along its borders, 'the atmosphere loses its transparency, and the sun is obscured for months together. The vapours at Lima are often so thick that the sun seen through them with the naked eye assumes the appearance of the moon's disk. They commence in the morning and extend over the plains in the form of refreshing fogs, which disappear soon after mid-day, and are followed by heavy dews which are precipitated during the night.' The morning mists and the evening dews thus supply the place of the absent rains; and the verdure which covers the plains is the offspring of a sea river. What a charming myth would the ancient poets have made out of this striking compensation!
We may here be indulged in a momentary digression, for the purpose of remarking the wonderful revolution which steam navigation is destined to accomplish in the commercial intercourse of this west coast of South America. To sail northwards with the current from Valparaiso to Callao, a distance of 1600 miles, occupies eight or nine, and from Callao to Guayaquil four or five days; while the return from Guayaquil to Callao occupies twenty-five days on an average, and to Valparaiso often several months. Steam already succeeds in returning to Callao, against wind and current, in five days—and to Valparaiso in about as many; and improved machinery will soon shorten the time still further. The means of maintaining an extensive steam navigation are also discovered to be abundant—the coast about Talca, to the south of Valparaiso, being described by Mr. Wheelwright as ' one entire mass of coal.' What a number of contrivances seem here to be heaped together to make amends for one original deprivation!
We have now adverted more or less fully to each series of the maps contained in the Physical Atlas; and trust we have shown how naturally the consideration of a single subject leads us from one to the other, and how large a fund of novel information bearing upon that subject is found awaiting us in every chart we turn to. But there is still one element of agricultural prosperity, no less influential than soil and climate, to which we have not yet adverted, but to which the last two maps in the Atlas forcibly draw our attention. This element is Man himself.
We confine our field of vision at present to Europe. Various countries of this quarter of the globe, possessing equal advantages of soil and climate—as favourably situated in respect of physical position, means of intercourse with other nations,settled government, public encouragement to agriculture, means of improvement of all kinds—are seen, nevertheless, to exhibit very unlike degrees of productiveness in the soil and of comfort and independence among those who till it, or who are directly supported by its produce.
Those who have not previously reflected on the importance of the human element, and the influence of variety of race in the development of the resources of a country, will discover in the two ethnographic maps materials for thought of a more curious and more serious nature than any we have yet considered. A general acquaintance with the actual condition of agriculture in the several kingdoms of Europe will enable the careful student of the first of these maps—the Ethnographic Map of Europe—to trace a not indistinct connexion between that condition and the colours by which the varieties of the human race who occupy these kingdoms are distinguished from each other.
The three great varieties—the Sclavonic, the Teutonic, and the Celtic—divide among them all the better parts of Western Europe; but the countries they respectively occupy exhibit very different degrees of agricultural prosperity. Portugal, Spain, France, Ireland, Wales, and the central
[begin surface 56]the east coast confirms this observation. Along the Moray Frith and the shores of Caithness and Sutherland, the fathers and grandfathers of many of the leading practical farmers have been Lothian or Berwickshire men; and a strong blood relationship has made its way among the rural families of this whole coast line. No one who knows the transformation which the last fifty years have effected upon the appearance and productiveness of Sutherland, will deny that the blood of the cultivator, no less than that of the stock he rears, is a most important element in the value of the harvests which given soils in given climates are found to yield.
A feeling of agricultural rivalry, perhaps of jealousy, has of late years been awakened between the Lothian farmers in Scotland and the Lincolnshire farmers in England. The latter have been led to believe that as a body they are not second, either in skill or in visible progress, to the most famous of their Scottish brethren; and, without presuming to decide the point, we must allow to our southern neighbours a very large share of merit indeed. But if, as we have conjectured, the Danish element has something to do with the farming progress and energy of Lincolnshire, it may not be uninteresting to our Scottish friends of the east coast, to remind them that the Scandinavian includes the Danish element; and that thus similarity of blood may have had something to do in giving life and success to the rural exertions of both communities. Somewhat allied in race, they have been so in industry also; and, instead of conceiving any childish jealousy, they may well rejoice in each other's progress—as all reasonable Britons must rejoice in the growing prosperity of our Transatlantic cousins.
From other parts of our own island, and most strikingly from Ireland, we might adduce numerous instances of the way in which geological and ethnographic maps illustrate each other—how, on the one hand, the nature of the soil gradually leads to a change in the race of its inhabitants; and how, on the other hand, the race may gradually alter the natural characters of the soil as indicated by geology. We will adduce only one example of each of these consequences drawn from the same northern part of Britain to which we were just alluding.
The Orkney Islands in the Ethnographic Map are coloured of a pale green. Where King Haco ruled and died, there must be much Scandinavian blood; but the Celto-Gaelic is supposed to predominate in the present inhabitants. They differ, therefore, from the yellow-shaded northern coasts, in which the purer Teuton blood is found. But the Geological Map colours these islands dark brown; and their soils are consequently similar to those of the red land of which we have been speaking. The same general connexion, therefore, does not here exist between the rocks and the people which we met with in our journey from Berwick, with few interruptions, all the way to the county of Caithness. It is a curious fact, however, that the improvement of the means of communication—by mails, by steamers, and by railroads—between these islands and the different parts of the mainland is at this moment rapidly removing this apparent incongruity. The same temperament which deters the sons of the red soil from migrating across the Lammermuir hills, has hitherto confined them chiefly to the lower parts and to the mainland of Scotland. But it has recently come to their knowledge that the Orkney Islands, in many parts, bear a soil of similar kind, and equal in value, to that which their own forefathers have so long tilled, and far easier to cultivate than the low sea-side lands of Sutherland, which the gentlemen who hold their annual symposia at Golspie, have so triumphantly overcome. Migrations, therefore, are taking place to the Orkneys, under the recent facilities of steam. Farmers of purer Scandinavian descent, of stouter frames, and graver heads and heavier purses, are fast settling there; and are already reaping abundant harvests of corn where their Celtic predecessors had hitherto failed to bring out the capabilities of the soil. Thus future ethnologists will find it necessary to mingle in the successive maps of these islands more and more of the Scandinavian yellow with the Celtic blue—until the existing discord between soil and race shall have insensibly disappeared.
Another example presents the converse of all this. It is taken from the changes at present proceeding under the hands of the energetic population of Aberdeenshire. The geological tints of this county are generally unfavourable to great agricultural improvement. But the ancient Danish and other varieties of Teutons, whom different motives brought from time to time to settle on this coast, discovered sources of wealth in its rivers and harbours; and spreading inland along the banks of the Dee and the Don, and by the sides of their many tributary streams, and over the wider hollows which occur in the upper country and on the more fertile bases of its granitic hills, they long ago raised corn and cattle almost equal to those of their northern and southern neighbours.
[begin surface 57]But the easier and more naturally fertile spots being now pre-occupied, they have allowed their patient energy—at first more slowly and reluctantly, but of late years fully and freely—to expand itself over the higher and less favoured adjoining lands.
The same thing has taken place to a greater or less extent throughout the inner borders of all the red land with which we have been brought in contact, along the confines which separate the Scandinavian from the Gaelo-Teutonic blood; and thus the reader, should he ever trace our footsteps through this country upon his own feet, must not expect to find the limits of race anywhere exactly bounded by purely geological divisions. But the less hospitable space over which the improving Teutonic influence has spread, is at the present time broader, perhaps, and more striking in Aberdeenshire than in any other part of the North. The agricultural efforts by which that county is now steadily advancing, are, indeed, very encouraging to the student of social progress. They exhibit the natural expansion of a persevering people; who, after having already occupied all the soil, the tillage of which was suitable to their habits, were driven to attempt the improvement of the less familiar and promising districts, on which the Celt had hitherto slumbered out his ill-provided and penurious life. Here, therefore, he sees a natural cause in operation, which will gradually destroy that clear connexion between the tints of the Geological and Ethnographic maps which we have found subsisting over so large an area at present.
But our limits warn us that we must here drop our agricultural thread. The line along which it has guided us, from the beginning of our Atlas to its close, has not only exhibited the vast amount of varied and attractive information which these maps have brought together; but it has enabled us to see how ample are the uses of natural science—how it abounds in grave thoughts, full of practical and moral bearing—how intimately all its branches are connected—and how impossible it is to follow out a train of thought originating in any one of them, without at the same time borrowing help and light from every other. There are few minds, like that of Humboldt, so naturally capacious and so marvellously trained, that, without foreign aid, they can take in at a glance the entire domain of natural knowledge; and view the universe in all its parts as one single and united whole. To more limited faculties, seeking for greater generalisation than we can compass of ourselves, an Atlas like the present is an invaluable help. And this, not merely because the mind is enlarged and enlightened and refreshed by such wide views, but because it is at the same time sustained and purified—and made more reverent of Him in whom the fulness of all knowledge dwells.
At the commencement of this article we presumed to hope that it was a fair inference, from the appearance of an atlas like the present, that natural knowledge was beginning to assume, among the public at large, a place more commensurate with its inherent importance, and with its bearings on some of the most interesting questions of social life. Under this impression we welcome with equal satisfaction the humbler Atlas, which the Messrs. Johnston are preparing for the use of schools, of which some of the maps are now before us.
Positive knowledge bearing on the pursuits and occupations of after life, and on the wants and mutual relations of the various classes of society, is the kind of information in which our schools have hitherto been most conspicuously deficient. But whatever the taste and the desire for it may be—and both the taste and the desire are becoming greater everyday—the machinery or tools for imparting it must be not only made ready, but be brought within the reach of all, before the most willing instructor can comply with the demands of an advancing age. In this point of view the School Physical Atlas* is a very seasonable contribution to our works on education.
Future legislators will probably wonder how those who guided the fortunes and diplomacy of nations could see their way through the intricate relations of the different countries of the world, without the knowledge which maps like the present will have made familiar to themselves: Future agriculturists will scarcely understand how their forefathers could have got on, without the lights which geology and physiology, and the study of temperatures and rain maps, and ocean currents and botanical geography, only can afford. And the reader of books will be surprised that men could pretend to run through such works as the 'Kosmos of Humboldt,' the 'Physical Geography of Mrs. Somerville,' or the 'Botanical Lectures of Schleiden'†, without having before
*We regret to find that the school series is not intended to include a geological map of the United Kingdom. By printing the colours from stone, as is done with the small Geological Map of France, coloured by Elie de Beaumont, it might be got up at a comparatively low price. †Die Pflanze und ihr Leben. Leipzig, 1848. VOL. LXXXIX. 13 [begin surface 58]them a Physical Atlas and its well constructed maps. The time may come when such an Atlas will be as much a part of an ordinary library as a common Geographical Atlas is at the present day.
THE admirers of every poet whose enterprise, genius, and fortune have succeeded in producing that rare phænomenon, a long poem of sustained interest and sterling worth, are generally as ardent in their affection for his minor poems, as in their reverence for his more elaborate and more distinguished work. A volume of Milton will most probably open of itself somewhere near the Allegro or the Lycidas; and while Petrarca's 'Africa' (his 'magnum opus') reposes in oblivion, his sonnets, more relaxations, so trivial that the good Canonico saw no reason for not writing them in the vulgar tongue, live in the hearts of thousands, or at least in the more cordial part of their fancy.
It is not surprising that it should be so. A long poem, if conducted with a genius equal to the theme, has indeed its advantages, especially those of comprehending a larger sphere of interest, employing a greater number of the poetic faculties, and including more various elements in a richer harmony and ampler keeping. On the other hand, it is seldom conceived, as a whole, with the completeness which belongs to the design of a short poem; and that portion of it which did not enter into the original conception, is in danger of hanging about it with an awkwardness which betrays a prosaic origin. Again, no amount of executive skill can wholly atone for defects in the subject matter; and the subject of a composition of any length is apt to reveal, at the last moment, some inherent defect, as provoking as the black spot which sometimes comes out in the marble, when the statue is all but finished.
There are other advantages which belong exclusively to a short poem. It is rendered buoyant, by a fuller infusion of that essential poetry which pervades, rather as the regulating mind than the vivifying soul, a body of larger dimensions. The particular beauty which results from symmetry is most deeply felt, when the piece lies within so small a compass, that the grace of proportion is recognised by an immediate consciousness, and not merely detected by patient and progressive survey. In the case, too, of pieces, consisting of a few lines only, though they may not treat directly of a passage of human life, they, for the most part, will have been suggested by something experienced or observed, and thus touching nature at many points, will draw strength from frequent contact with its native soil; whereas a longer work, even though not abstract in its subject, joins thought on to thought and image to image, without remanding the poet to the common ground of reality; and being thus ' carved out of the carver's brain,' is apt, if not of first-rate excellence, to meet with a cold response from men, whose associations are different from those of the poet. It may be added, that short poems bring us more near to the poet:—And to impart and elicit sympathy is among the chief functions of those who may be called the brother-confessors of mankind. For, however devoid of egotism he may be, he must unavoidably present more aspects of his own many-sided being, when expatiating on many themes; and in many moods, than when engrossed by a single task. Their brevity also makes them more minutely known, and more familiarly remembered. They are small enough to be embraced: and if we cannot repose beneath them as under a tree, we can bear them in our breast like flowers.
Mr. Taylor's short poems are characterised by the same qualities which distinguish 'Philip Van Artevelde' and 'Edwin the Fair.' That robust strength which belongs to truth, and that noble grace which flows from strength when combined with poetic beauty, are exhibited in them not less distinctly than in the larger works by which his reputation has been established. Their subjects as well as their limits, for the most part, exclude Passion in its specific tragic form; but, on the other hand, they are wrought out with a more discriminating touch than his dramas. There is in them a majestic tenderness ennobled by severity; and, at the same time, a sweetness and mellowness, which are often missed in the best youthful poetry; and which come not till age has seasoned the instrument, as well as perfected the musician's skill. While not less faithful to nature, they have more affinities with art than their predecessors. Retaining the same peculiar temperament, light, firm, and vigorous (for true poetry has ever a cognisable temperament, as well as its special intellectual constitution), their moral sympathies are both loftier and wider, and respire a softer clime. To this we should add, that their structure is uniformly based
83 | Rhodes, island in the Mediterranean. | Home on the ocean wave, | 36 N. 28 W. |
84 | Sea Horse Island, north-east of Spitzbergen. | Fine map, | 82 " 39 " |
85 | Smyrna, Turkey in Asia. | Muff on the nub, | 38 " 29 E. |
86 | St. Helena, home of the exiled emperor. | Tall Jew, | 15 S. 06 W. |
87 | St. Paul island, Indian Ocean. | Moss cake, | 30 " 77 " |
88 | Teneriffe, one of the Canary Islands. | Enough talk, | 28 " 17 " |
89 | Tonga Islands, Pacific Ocean. | Noted gale, | 21 " 175 " |
90 | Trieste, Austria. | Rash deer, | 46 " 14 " |
91 | Venice, Italy. | Roll of tin, | 45 " 12 " |
1 | Babylon, ancient city of Turkey in Europe. | Mummy near, | 33 N. 42 E. |
2 | Bagdad, city in Turkey. | Memory of a hero, | 33 " 44 W. |
3 | Bombay, city in British India. | Top of a kite, | 19 " 71 " |
4 | Candia, capital of the isle of Candia. | Mellow knell, | 35 " 25 " |
5 | Cape Comorin, south of Hindostan | Boy in a cave, | 9 " 78 " |
6 | Cape Farewell, south of Greenland. | Chase a rogue, | 60 " 47 " |
7 | Cape of Good Hope, south of Africa. | Merry dove, | 34 S. 18 " |
8 | Cape Guardafui, east of Africa. | Time of the moon, | 13 N. 52 " |
9 | Cape Lopatka, south of Kamschatka. | Light dialogue, | 51 " 157 " |
10 | Cape Pillar, south of Van Deiman's Land. | Reared roof, | 44 S.148 " |
11 | Cape St. Mary, south of Madagascar. | New laurel, | 25 " 45 " |
12 | Cape York, north of New Holland. | Tidy trim, | 11 " 143 " |
13 | Cape Zelania, north-east of Nova Zembla. | Cake in a cage, | 77 N. 76 " |
14 | Fejee Islands, Pacific Ocean. | Tea or good coffee, | 17 S.178 " |
15 | Juan Fernandez, island in the Pacific Ocean. | A mere cap, | 34 " 79 " |
16 | Monrovia, capital of Liberia, Western Africa. | Joy on the tide, | 6 N. 11 " |
17 | Maelstrom, a vortex near Norway | Shove the tide, | 68 " 11 " |
18 | Northeast Cape, north of Siberia. | Coffee in hot houses, | 78 " 100 " |
19 | Otaheite, Society Islands. | Tall dahlias, | 15 S.150 " |
20 | Owyhee, Sandwich Islands. | Honest and loyal, | 20 " 155 " |
21 | Petz Island, Southern Ocean. | Shop boys, | 69 " 90 W. |
22 | Pitcairn's Island, Pacific Ocean. | Unholy themes, | 25 " 130 " |
The learner will memorize the length of rivers by connecting the indicating word with the names of the rivers in a sentence.
EXAMPLE.—On the banks of the Mississippi there are some beautiful ❊ Roads, 4100. On the shores of the Missouri can be seen the flocks of Snipes, 2900.1 | Mississippi, | ❊ Roads, | 4100 |
2 | Missouri, | Snipes, | 2900 |
3 | Mackenzie, | Nails, | 2500 |
4 | St. Lawrence, | Nuns, | 2200 |
5 | Arkansas, | Noses, | 2000 |
6 | Rio Grande, | Doves, | 1800 |
7 | Columbia, | Atlas, | 1500 |
8 | Red, | Atlas, | 1500 |
9 | Ohio, | Teams, | 1300 |
10 | Saskatchawan, | Tones, | 1200 |
11 | Platte, | Tones, | 1200 |
12 | Lewis, | Tones, | 1200 |
13 | Kanzas, | Dates, | 1100 |
14 | Yellowstone, | Diseases, | 1000 |
15 | Canadian, | Diseases, | 1000 |
16 | Churchill, | Peas, | 900 |
17 | Tennessee, | Peas, | 900 |
18 | Peace, | Waves, | 800 |
19 | Colorado, | Waves, | 800 |
20 | Frazers, | Chase, | 600 |
21 | Utawas, | Chase, | 600 |
22 | Clarks, | Chase, | 600 |
23 | Semerone, | Chase, | 600 |
24 | Brazos, | Chase, | 600 |
25 | Cumberland, | Chase, | 600 |
26 | Big Horn, | Chase, | 600 |
27 | White, | Chase, | 600 |
28 | Alabama, | Chase, | 600 |
29 | Liards, | Loss, | 500 |
30 | Albany, | Loss, | 500 |
31 | Koksah, | Loss, | 500 |
32 | East Main, | Loss, | 500 |
33 | Red, | Loss, | 500 |
34 | Gila, | Loss, | 500 |
35 | Susquehanna, | Loss, | 500 |
36 | Potomac, | Loss, | 500 |
37 | Illinois, | Loss, | 500 |
38 | Wabash, | Loss, | 500 |
39 | Nesuketonga, | Loss, | 500 |
40 | Washita, | Loss, | 500 |
41 | James, | Loss, | 500 |
42 | Roanoke, | Loss, | 500 |
43 | Savannah, | Loss, | 500 |
44 | Tombigbee, | Loss, | 500 |
45 | St. John's, N. B. | Roll, | 450 |
46 | Connecticut, | Roll, | 450 |
47 | Great Pedee, | Roll, | 450 |
48 | Des Moines, | Roll, | 450 |
49 | Osage, | Roll, | 450 |
50 | Clamet, | Roll, | 450 |
51 | Great Whale, | Rose, | 400 |
52 | Saguenay, | Rose, | 400 |
53 | Grande, | Rose, | 400 |
54 | Delaware, | Rose, | 400 |
55 | Wisconsin, | Rose, | 400 |
56 | Kanawha, | Rose, | 400 |
57 | Altamaha, | Rose, | 400 |
58 | Yazoo, | Rose, | 400 |
59 | James, I. T., | Rose, | 400 |
60 | St. Francis, | Rose, | 400 |
61 | Wapticacoos, | Rose, | 400 |
62 | Nelson, | Mail, | 350 |
63 | Nueces, | Mail, | 350 |
64 | Penobscot, | Mail, | 350 |
65 | Hudson, | Mail, | 350 |
66 | Alleghany, | Mail, | 350 |
67 | Cape Fear, | Mail, | 350 |
68 | Pearl, | Mail, | 350 |
69 | Iowa, | Mail, | 350 |
70 | Severn, | Mouse, | 300 |
71 | Hay, | Mouse, | 300 |
72 | St. Peter's, | Mouse, | 300 |
73 | Kennebec, | Mouse, | 300 |
74 | Monongahela, | Mouse, | 300 |
75 | Rock, | Mouse, | 300 |
76 | Kaskaskia, | Mouse, | 300 |
77 | Green, | Mouse, | 300 |
78 | Licking, | Mouse, | 300 |
79 | Neuse, | Mouse, | 300 |
80 | Big Black, | Mouse, | 300 |
81 | St. John's, Fa., | Nail, | 250 |
82 | Little Missouri, | Nail, | 250 |
83 | Teton, | Nail, | 250 |
84 | Merrimac, | Nose, | 200 |
85 | Tar, | Nose, | 200 |
86 | White, | Nose, | 200 |
1 | Amazon, | Matches, | 3600 |
2 | Rio de la Plata, | Union or law, | 2250 |
3 | Madeira, | No news, | 2200 |
4 | Parana, | Debase, | 1900 |
5 | Oronoco, | Atlas, | 1500 |
6 | Zingu, | Times, | 1300 |
7 | St. Francisco, | Times, | 1300 |
8 | Rio Negro, | Eye witness, | 1200 |
9 | Ucayale, | Eye witness, | 1200 |
10 | Para, | Eye witness, | 1200 |
11 | Mamare, | Eye witness, | 1200 |
12 | Caqueta, | Dates, | 1100 |
13 | Tapajos, | Dates, | 1100 |
14 | Tocantins, | Dates, | 1100 |
15 | Araguay, | Dates, | 1100 |
16 | Pilcomayo, | Dates, | 1100 |
17 | Vermajo, | Diseases, | 1000 |
18 | Colorado, | Diseases, | 1000 |
19 | Magdalena, | Base, | 900 |
20 | Tunguragua, | Base, | 900 |
21 | Puras, | Base, | 900 |
22 | Uaupes, | Face, | 800 |
23 | Putumayo, | Face, | 800 |
24 | Jurua, | Face, | 800 |
25 | Parnaiba, | Face, | 800 |
26 | Salado, | Face, | 800 |
27 | Uruguay, | Face, | 800 |
28 | Jutay, | Keys, | 700 |
29 | Rio Negro, | Keys, | 700 |
30 | Cauca, | Chaise, | 600 |
31 | Meta, | Chaise, | 600 |
32 | Guaviare, | Chaise, | 600 |
33 | Arauca, | Loss, | 500 |
34 | Haullaga, | Loss, | 500 |
35 | Gurapy, | Loss, | 500 |
36 | Guapore, | Loss, | 500 |
37 | Paraiba, | Rill, | 450 |
38 | Negro, | Rice, | 400 |
39 | Saladillo, | Rice, | 400 |
40 | Maroni, | Mile, | 350 |
1 | Volga, | Noses, | 2000 |
2 | Danube, | Duchess, | 1600 |
3 | Don, | Diocese, | 1000 |
4 | Dnieper, | Diocese, | 1000 |
5 | Rhine, | Voice, | 800 |
6 | Dwina, | Goose, | 700 |
7 | Petchora, | Shoes, | 600 |
8 | Elbe, | Shoes, | 600 |
9 | Vistula, | Lily, | 550 |
10 | Tagus, | Lily, | 550 |
11 | Dniester, | Loss, | 500 |
12 | Loire, | Loss, | 500 |
13 | Viatka, | Roll, | 450 |
14 | Prypetz, | Roll, | 450 |
15 | Donetz, | Roll, | 450 |
16 | Odruth, | Roll, | 450 |
17 | Douro, | Roll, | 450 |
18 | Rhone, | Roll, | 450 |
19 | Thesis, | Roll, | 450 |
20 | Mezene, | Horse, | 400 |
21 | Desna, | Horse, | 400 |
22 | Bog, | Horse, | 400 |
23 | Pruth, | Horse, | 400 |
24 | Guadiana, | Horse, | 400 |
25 | Po, | Race, | 400 |
26 | Drave, | Race, | 400 |
27 | Save, | Race, | 400 |
28 | Onega, | Maize, | 300 |
29 | Dahl, | Maize, | 300 |
30 | Bug, | Maize, | 300 |
31 | Wartha, | Maize, | 300 |
32 | Weser, | Maize, | 300 |
33 | Seine, | Maize, | 300 |
24 | Garonne, | Maize, | 300 |
35 | Guadalquiver, | Maize, | 300 |
36 | Umea, | Nail, | 250 |
37 | Tornea, | Nail, | 250 |
38 | Kalix, | Nail, | 250 |
39 | Glommen, | Nail, | 250 |
40 | Clara, | Nail, | 250 |
41 | Lulea, | Nice, | 200 |
42 | Skelleftea, | Nice, | 200 |
43 | Luisna, | Nice, | 200 |
44 | Ems, | ❊ Thickly, | 175 |
45 | Indal, | Dole, | 150 |
46 | Minho, | Dole, | 150 |
47 | Tiber, | Dole, | 150 |
1 | Yang-tse-kiang, | Novice, | 2800 |
2 | Lena, | Natchez, | 2600 |
3 | Obi, | Sinless, | 2500 |
4 | Hoang Ho, | Sinless, | 2500 |
5 | Yensei, | Names, | 2300 |
6 | Amoor, | No noise, | 2200 |
7 | Irtish, | Noises, | 2000 |
8 | Cambodia, | Noises, | 2000 |
9 | Indus, | Tax, | 1700 |
10 | Irrawaddy, | Tax, | 1700 |
11 | Ganges, | Ditches, | 1600 |
12 | Tungooska, | Toils, | 1500 |
13 | Burrampooter, | Toils, | 1500 |
14 | Euphrates, | Trees, | 1400 |
15 | Amoo, | Disease, | 1000 |
16 | Songari, | Disease, | 1000 |
17 | Indighirca, | Bass, | 900 |
18 | Sutlege, | Bass, | 900 |
19 | Salwen, | Bass, | 900 |
20 | Ishim, | Face, | 800 |
21 | Tigris, | Face, | 800 |
22 | Nerbuddah, | Face, | 800 |
23 | Meinam, | Face, | 800 |
24 | Tobol, | Geese, | 700 |
25 | Sihon, | Geese, | 700 |
26 | Cashgar, | Geese, | 700 |
27 | Hoang-kiang, | Geese, | 700 |
28 | Kolima, | Shoes, | 600 |
29 | Helmund, | Shoes, | 600 |
30 | Godavery, | Shoes, | 600 |
31 | Usuri, | Loss, | 500 |
32 | Krishna, | Loss, | 500 |
33 | Mahanuddy, | Rail, | 450 |
34 | Attruck, | Muse, | 300 |
1 | Nile, | Knives, | 2800 |
2 | Niger, | Knives, | 2800 |
3 | Senegal, | Tones, | 1200 |
4 | Orange, | Disease, | 1000 |
5 | Abawi, | Voice, | 800 |
6 | Gambia, | Goose, | 700 |
7 | Taccaze, | Choice, | 600 |
8 | Ambriz, | Choice, | 600 |
9 | St. Paul's, | Mass, | 300 |
1 | Murray, | Disease, | 1000 |
Feet, above the level of the sea. | |||||
1 | On the heights of Chumularee, (highest in the world,) Thibet, one can take a | Nap like an easy Swiss, | 29,000 | ||
2 | Sorato, highest in America—Bolivia. | Nail up the muffs, | 25,380 | ||
3 | Highest flight of a balloon—France. | Names in an ice-house, | 23,000 | ||
4 | Chimborazo—Equador. | Neat to a rare hero, | 21,444 | ||
5 | Highest flight of a condor—South America. | Wants of a Swiss, | 21,000 | ||
6 | Hindoo Koosh—Affghanistan. | Anise in cheeses, | 20,600 | ||
7 | Highest spot ever trod by man—Equador. | Deep recess, | 19,400 | ||
8 | Cotopaxi, highest volcano—Equador. | Tough foe beat, | 18,891 | ||
9 | St. Elias, highest mountain in North America. | Dig the basis, | 17,900 | ||
10 | Popocatapetl, highest in Mexico. | Talk to excess, | 17,700 | ||
11 | Mouna Roa, highest in Oceanica—Hawaii. | Talk of losses, | 17,500 | ||
12 | Brown, highest of Rocky Mountains—N. America. | Audacious Swiss, | 16,000 | ||
13 | Mt. Blanc, highest in Europe—Italy. | Dull shovel, | 15,685 | ||
14 | Limit of perpetual snow at the equator. | Dull noises, | 15,200 | ||
15 | Volcano, Guatemala. | Tales of the Swiss, | 15,000 | ||
16 | Antisana farm-house—Equador. | Dear to the masses, | 14,300 | ||
17 | Demavend, highest of Elburz mountains—Persia. | Dairy houses in use, | 14,000 | ||
18 | Mt. Ophir—Sumatra. | Tame faces, | 13,800 | ||
19 | Limit of pines under the equator. | Tawny faces, | 12,800 | ||
20 | City of La Paz—Bolivia. | Tiny coaches, | 12,760 | ||
21 | Mt. Ararat—Armenia. | Done to excess, | 12,700 | ||
22 | Miltsin, highest of Atlas mountains—Spain. | Deny the lasses, | 12,500 | ||
23 | Peak of Teneriffe—Canaries. | Tone of a tick watch, | 12,176 | ||
24 | Mulhacen, highest of Sierra Nivada—Spain. | Taught vices, | 11,800 | ||
25 | Mt. Perdu, highest of Pyrenees—France. | Detain in jail, | 11,265 | ||
26 | Mt. Ætna, Volcano—Sicily. | Ideas of a palace, | 10,950 | ||
27 | Limit of oaks under the equator. | Does less in a house, | 10,500 |
28 | Mt. Lebanon—Syria. | Daisies of a size, | 10,000 | ||
29 | Ruska Poyana, highest of Carpathian—Austria. | Pipe of tin, | 9,912 | ||
30 | City of Quito—Equador. | Boyish mess, | 9,630 | ||
31 | St. Bernard convent—Switzerland. | Face move, | 8,038 | ||
32 | Pendus, highest in Greece. | Coyish quack, | 7,677 | ||
33 | City of Mexico—Mexico. | Queer goose, | 7,470 | ||
34 | Black Mountain, highest of Blue Ridge—N. Carolina. | Chair of a coach, | 6,476 | ||
35 | Mt. Washington, highest of White mountains—N. Hamp. | Share of envy, | 6,428 | ||
36 | Mt. Marcy, in New York. | Low muses, | 5,300 | ||
37 | Mt. Hecla, highest in Iceland. | Rough fife, | 4,888 | ||
38 | Ben Nevis, highest in Great Britain—Scotland. | Room in a cab, | 4,379 | ||
39 | Mansfield, highest of the Green Mountains. | Run in a cab, | 4,279 | ||
40 | Peaks of Otter—Virginia, | Ruin of ages, | 4,260 | ||
41 | Mt. Vesuvius, Volcano—Naples. | Map of the moon, | 3,932 | ||
42 | Round Top, of the Catskill Mountains—New York. | Miffy sire, | 3,804 | ||
43 | Snowdon, highest in South Britain—Wales. | Meal and chaff, | 3,568 | ||
44 | Pyramids, highest work of man—Egypt. | Whole pipe, | 599 | ||
45 | Mt. Corno, highest of Appenines, Naples. | Pale nut, | 9,521 | ||
46 | Snegatta, highest of Dofrafield, Sweden. | Fine houses, | 8,200 | ||
47 | Mt. Sinai—Arabia. | Fit to shave, | 8,168 |
square miles | ||
Russian America, have met with | Losses, ❊ | 500,000 |
Greenland, | Furs, | 840,000 |
British America, | Snow and mighty ice, | 2,310,000 |
United States, | Notch in a new house, | 2,620,000 |
Mexico and Yucatan, | Tame vice, | 1,380,000 |
Guatimala, | Noses, | 200,000 |
West Indies, | Disease, | 100,000 |
Gap in the lace, | Total, 7,950,000 |
New Grenada, | Release, | 450,000 |
Venezuela, | Ruins, | 420,000 |
Equador, | Novice, | 280,000 |
square miles | ||
Guiana, | Duchess, | 160,000 |
Peru, | Armies | 430,000 |
Bolivia, | Release, | 450,000 |
Chili, | Tax, | 170,000 |
Brazil, | Mumps, | 3,390,000 |
Buenos Ayres, | Glass, | 750,000 |
Paraguay | Fife, | 88,000 |
Uraguay, | Pony, | 92,000 |
Patagonia, | Mix, | 370,000 |
To be Causeless, | Total, 7,050,000 |
Sweden and Norway, | Winnipeg, | 297,000 |
Russia and Poland, | Duck with a lily, | 1,755,000 |
Denmark, | Union, | 22,000 |
Holland, | Tide, | 11,000 |
Belgium, | Dome, | 13,000 |
Great Britain and Ireland, | Dainty, | 121,000 |
France, | No sale, | 205,000 |
Spain, | Defame, | 183,000 |
Portugal, | Mob, | 39,000 |
Prussia, | Desk, | 107,000 |
Austria, | New help, | 259,000 |
Smaller German States, | Dozen, | 102,000 |
Switzerland | Tell, | 15,000 |
Italy, | Athenian, | 122,000 |
Ionian Islands, | Day, | 1,000 |
Greece, | Indies, | 210,000 |
Turkey, | Nosegay, | 207,000 |
Homage of a fop, | Total, 3,689,000 |
Asiatic Russia, | Whole masses, | 5,300,000 |
Independent Tartary, | Gipsy, | 690,000 |
Turkey, | Muck house, | 370,000 |
Syria and Palestine, | Jewess, | 60,000 |
Arabia, | Papacy, | 990,000 |
Persia, | Rocks, | 470,000 |
Affghanistan, | Mercy, | 340,000 |
Beloochistan, | Noses, | 200,000 |
Hindoostan, | Dunces, | 1,200,000 |
Eastern or Chin India, | Happiness, | 920,000 |
Chinese Empire, | Alliances, | 5,200,000 |
Japan, | Natchez, | 260,000 |
Dutch icehouses, | Total, 16,000,000 |
square miles | ||
Barbary, | Lakes, | 570,000 |
Egypt, | Device, | 180,000 |
Nubia | Immense, | 320,000 |
Abyssinia, | Novice, | 280,000 |
Great Desert, | Notch of an icehouse, | 2,600,000 |
Soudan, | Dunces, | 1,200,000 |
Bergoo, Darfor, &c., | Low heroes, | 540,000 |
Senegambia, | Homeless, | 350,000 |
Upper Guinea | Novice, | 280,000 |
Lower Guinea, | Notch of ice, | 260,000 |
Southern Africa, | Refuse, | 480,000 |
Eastern Africa, | Cheeses, | 600,000 |
Ethiopia, | Mighty mass, | 3,130,000 |
African Islands, | New dice, | 210,000 |
Die of diseases, | Total, 11,000,000 |
As, in the preceding Sections, all the indicating phrases relating to one State, on the following page, should be joined to the name of the State, by constructing a sentence.
EXAMPLES.In Maine were many roses found in a Dutch mass, where they continued still to talk.
In New Hampshire they were made to weep over losses, not about a Dutch name, unless a hero.
To avoid mistake in assigning the right number of figures to the members which each state sends to Congress, the symbol which corresponds to the number should be located in those States which send more than can be expressed by one figure.
EXAMPLES.Massachusetts, Kentucky, and Indiana, each send 10 members. The Dozing chair should be located in each of them.
Ohio sends 21 members, in which should be located the Noted bear.
8 [begin surface 66]States. | Square miles. | When Settled. | State and U.S. Representatives. | ||||
1 Florida. | Slyish and mummish, | 56,336 | Tall jail, | 1565 | Day. | 1 | |
2 Virginia. | Jail cases, | 65,700 | Tie on a watch-house key, | 1607 | Admire the toil, | ❊ 134 | † 15 |
3 New York. | Rash annoyance, | 46,220 | Dish water, | 1614 | A tiny foe in the mire, | 128 | 34 |
4 Massachusetts. | Weak voices, | 7,800 | Toyish noise, | 1620 | Militia days, | 356 | 10 |
5 New Hampshire. | Weep over losses, | 9,500 | Dutch name, | 1623 | Unless a hero, | 250 | 4 |
6 New Jersey. | Coopers' fee, | 7,948 | Addition of an hour, | 1624 | Joyously, | 60 | 5 |
7 Delaware. | Noisy chief, | 2,068 | Teach a nag, | 1627 | Noted, | 21 | 1 |
8 Maine. | Many roses, | 32,400 | Dutch mass, | 1630 | Still to talk, | 151 | 7 |
9 Connecticut. | Rake or fop, | 4,789 | Dutch mummy, | 1633 | Neat lawyer, | 215 | 4 |
10 Maryland. | Daisy, oak, and lily, | 10,755 | Dodge the mire, | 1634 | Gave a shoe, | 78 | 6 |
11 Rhode Island. | Deny a lady, | 1,251 | Teach much, | 1636 | Cannon, | 72 | 2 |
12 North Carolina. | Light of a watchman, | 51,632 | Stageless, | 1650 | Witness of a boy, | 120 | 9 |
13 South Carolina. | Middle of July, | 31,565 | Whitish wax, | 1670 | Tiny rake, | 124 | 7 |
14 Michigan. | Cheese from a lame cow, | 60,537 | Touch the cause, | 1670 | Alarm, | 54 | 3 |
15 Pennsylvania. | Rich noddle, | 46,215 | Dutch fan, | 1682 | Hot seasoner, | 100 | 24 |
16 Illinois. | Eulogy on a holy sage, | 56,506 | Stitch of fame, | 1683 | Poetic, | 91 | 7 |
17 Arkansas. | Large dog, | 54,617 | Dutch flee, | 1685 | Jew shot, | 66 | 1 |
18 Indiana. | Small change, | 35,626 | Witty chaps, | 1690 | Diseased so, | 100 | 10 |
19 Louisiana. | Require time, | 47,413 | Teach a baby, | 1699 | Choice hero, | 60 | 4 |
20 Alabama. | Lower sphere, | 54,084 | Tax for wine, | 1702 | Dies sick, | 100 | 7 |
21 Mississippi. | Rob the militia, | 49,356 | Talk Dutch, | 1716 | Battery, | 91 | 4 |
22 Vermont. | Happy kisses, | 9,700 | Thick nail, | 1725 | Enemy in the mire, | 233 | 4 |
23 Georgia. | Shout of joy for fame, | 61,683 | Duck a mummy, | 1733 | New skiff, | 207 | 8 |
24 Missouri. | Excess of lies, | 70,050 | Take a chum, | 1763 | Repeal, | 49 | 5 |
25 Tennessee. | Rude colony, | 41,752 | Took the lash, | 1756 | Call of duty, | 75 | 11 |
26 Kentucky. | Raises the enemy, | 40,023 | Duck and an eagle, | 1755 | Doses and dies, | 100 | 10 |
27 Ohio. | Worse losses, | 40,500 | Dog and fife, | 1788 | Gone in the night, | 72 | 21 |
28 Dist. of Columbia. | Disuse, | 100 | |||||
29 Texas. | Minus of sizes, | 320,000 | Tough name, | 1823 | Judge now, | 66 | 2 |
30 Wisconsin. | Pony on pumice, | 92,930 | |||||
31 Iowa. | Dog and muck fish, | 173,786 |
When it is noon in Paris, most of the good people of New York are enjoying their morning dreams, it being, as is seen by the above table, just after 5 A.M. When it is noon in New York, in China it is near one o'clock to-morrow morning. When our working-men are eating their dinners, those of St. Petersburg are taking their evening meal, the clocks of that imperial city indicating the hour of 7 P.M. The clocks of Vienna are just six hours faster than ours. At all places east of New York, of course, the time is more or less faster. The difference between this city and Boston is about twelve minutes and a half. All places to the westward of us have slower time. At Charleston it still lacks about twenty-three minutes of noon. At San Francisco the business day has hardly commenced, the time-pieces there indicating 8 h. 45 m. A.M. A telegraphic message sent from New York at 12 M. Would reach the metropolis of California at a quarter before nine in the morning!
Our young readers who are studying geography and astronomy will find it a pleasant and useful recreation to trace out, with a map of the world before them, the interesting facts which this "Clock of All Nations" reveals and suggests, making an application of them to other places of different longitudinal situations.
We give below a table showing differences in time between the principal cities in the United States. To find this difference—say the difference between New York and St. Louis—look for New York in the column of names on the side, and for St. Louis on the top. Follow the line of figures opposite each one until they intersect at 65, which is the difference in time in minutes. The traveler from east to west will find his watch continually getting fast; but when he returns, it will get slow. With the following table in his pocket, he can know the correct time of the place he is at, without constantly changing his watch.
A table showing the difference in time between U.S. cities. [begin surface 68]The art is attributed to the Egyptians, as the first inventors, the first ship, probably a galley, being brought from Egypt to Greece, by Danaus, 1485 B.C.—Blair.
The first double-decked ship was built by the Tyrians, 786 B.C.—Lenglet.
The first double-decked one built in England was of 1,000 tons burden by order of Henry Vii., 1509; it was called the Great Harry and cost $70,000—Stow.
Before this time, 24-gun ships were the largest in our navy, and these had no port-holes, the guns being on the upper decks only. Port-holes and other improvements were invented by Descharges, a French builder in Brest, in the reign of Louis XII., about 1500. Ship-building was treated as a science by Hoste, 1696. A 74 gun ship was put upon the stocks at Van Dieman's Land, to be sheathed with India-rubber, 1829.
The Phœnicians traded with England for this article for more than 1,100 years before the Christian era. It is said that this trade first gave them commercial importance in the ancient world. Under the Saxons, our tin mines appear to have been neglected; but after the coming in of the Normans, they produced considerable revenues to the Earls of Cornwall, particularly to Richard, brother of Henry III.; a charter and various immunities were granted by Edmund, Earl Richard's brother, who also framed the stannary laws, laying a duty on the tin, payable to the Earls of Cornwall. Edward III. confirmed the tinners in their privileges, and erected Cornwall into a dukedom, with which he invested his son, Edward the Black Prince—1337. Since that time, the heirs-apparent to the crown of England, if eldest sons, have enjoyed it successively. Tin mines were discovered in Germany, which lessened the value of those in England, till then the only tin mines in Europe, A.D. 1240.—Anderson.
Discovered in Barbary 1640; in India, 1740; in New Spain 1782. We export, at present, on an average, 1500 tons of unwrought tin, besides manufactured tin and tin plates of the value of about $2,000,000.
—Says a scientific writer: "To obtain some idea of the immensity of the Creator's works, let us look through Lord Ross' telescope, and we discover a star in the infinite depths of space whose light is 3,500,000 years in traversing to our earth, moving at the velocity of twelve millions of miles in a minute. And behold God was there."
TEMPERATURE OF THE EARTH.—Scientific investigations have been made concerning the temperature of the interior of the earth. The existence of hot-water springs, and the recurrence of volcanic eruptions, have always pointed at a certain fact. Now it is well established that the effect of the sun's rays does not penetrate more than fifty feet. After that, the temperature, which has been, so far, regularly diminishing, increases at the rate of about one degree, Fahr. for every fifteen yards of descent. Then water must be wholly converted into steam at a depth of two miles; lead must melt at a depth of six miles; gold, at a depth of twenty miles; cast-iron, at a depth of about twenty-five miles; and at a depth of less than fifty miles, the very rocks must be in a state of fusion, or like flowing lava. The solid crust of the earth, by this calculation, is only one-hundred and sixtieth part of its diameter; and bears about the same relation thereto, as the shell of an egg bears to its bulk!
Abscess, of the hip | 1 |
Albuminaria, and Bright's disease of kidneys | 1 |
Aneurism | 1 |
Apoplexy | 4 |
Asthma | 1 |
Bleeding from navel | 1 |
Bleeding from womb | 2 |
Bronchitis | 5 |
Burned or scalded | 5 |
Cancer | 1 |
Cancer of the womb | 1 |
Casualties by falls | 2 |
Casualty by jumping from a wagon | 1 |
Casualty by overdose of medicine | 1 |
Cholera infantum | 30 |
Cholera morbus | 1 |
Colic | 2 |
Concussion of the brain | 1 |
Congestion of brain | 7 |
Congestion of liver | 1 |
Congestion of lungs | 2 |
Consumption | 52 |
Convulsions, infantile | 1 |
Convulsions, puerperal | 1 |
Croup | 10 |
Debility, adult | 1 |
Debility, infantile | 12 |
Delirium tremens | 3 |
Diarrhœa | 16 |
Dropsy | 3 |
Dropsy in the chest | 1 |
Dropsy in the head | 14 |
Drowned | 5 |
Dysentery | 12 |
Erysipelas | 1 |
Fever, bilious | 1 |
Fever, hectic | 1 |
Fever, nervous | 1 |
Fever, Panama or Chagres | 1 |
Fever, puerperal | 1 |
Fever, remittent | 4 |
Fever, scarlet | 6 |
Fever, typhoid | 3 |
Fever, typhus | 2 |
Fever, yellow | 1 |
Fungus, bleeding | 1 |
Gravel | 1 |
Heart, disease of | 3 |
Heart, disease of, valvular | 1 |
Hooping cough | 8 |
Inflammation of bowels | 9 |
Inflammation of brain | 8 |
Inflammation of heart | 1 |
Inflammation of lungs | 5 |
Inflammation of stomach | 1 |
Inflammation of throat | 1 |
Inflammation of womb | 1 |
Intemperance | 1 |
Jaundice | 4 |
Liver, disease of | 2 |
Malformation | 1 |
Malformation of anus | 1 |
Malformation of heart | 1 |
Marasmus, infantile | 39 |
Measles | 2 |
Palsy | 2 |
Poison, by laudanum | 1 |
Perforation of stomach | 1 |
Premature birth | 5 |
Retention of urine | 1 |
Rheumatism | 1 |
Scrofula | 2 |
Scurvy | 1 |
Smallpox | 4 |
Softening of stomach | 1 |
Spine, disease of | 2 |
Stillborn | 29 |
Teething | 5 |
Tumor, of maxillary bones | 1 |
Ulceration of the bowels | 1 |
Ulceration of the spine | 1 |
Ulceration of the stomach | 1 |
Unknown to the jury | 1 |
Worms | 1 |
Total | 389 |
Col. WHITTLESEY followed with a paper "On the origin of anthracite and bituminous coal."
He said he had been cautioned against expressing his views on this topic, since all geologists concur now on the opinion of the vegetable origin of coal. For twenty years he has doubted this theory; his conviction is still that coal has a mineral origin, just as are the shales of the same series, and it is only a question of prudence and policy whether to present these views to a scientific body. Although all geologists agree that coal is vegetable matter carbonized, they differ entirely as to the mode of this carbonization. He goes further, and offers an entirely different theory; and this he ventures to present as a point still open to discussion, as admitted by Hopkins in England, by the naturalists of France, and by Prof. St. John of our own country. It is admitted that carbon is of mineral origin, is found everywhere, in all kinds of rocks. Now, if this carbon be segregated and reduced to a solid form, it is either coal or diamond. The question, then is reduced to one of the separation of carbon from the rocks or other substances containing it. Col. W. thinks the same difficulty is in the way of the segregation of this carbon, even if we adopt the usual theory of a vegetable origin of coal, anthracite being mostly carbon, and with hardly any traces of vegetable matter.
It is generally supposed that bituminous coal cannot have a mineral origin; the speaker could not see how it could have a vegetable one. That carbon enough existed originally for the production of the coal beds, he inferred from the fact that of sixty-eight bituminous springs—omitting all such springs and deposits as he could not refer to their proper geological strata—thirty-one are below the coal formation, and from strata in which no traces of vegetable organization have been found, while the abundant vegetation which must have obtained to form coal-beds only occurs above the carboniferous series. Are we warranted in supposing its existence at a former period?
He had examined many lignites which are the commonly-quoted examples of wood in process of transformation into coal, but had found no traces of bitumen, while that substance forms from 10 to 70 per cent of many rocks which he named. This substance is found in rocks more remote than the Silurian, so old, even, as the Azoic period. He argued his points at some length, and concluded that, in his opinion, it would be well to admit that bitumen, so far from being of vegetable origin. was one of the original constituents of the rocks, and existed previous to all vegetable organic matter; and carbon, the principal constituent of all bitumens and coals, is everywhere found. As to coal beds, in respect to their formation, he places
them in precisely the same category as the st[covered] which they occur, though without pretending t[covered]how it was done, and considers bitumen and co[covered]rocks formed, precisely like other rocks, from [covered] existing materials.
T. S. HUNT denied Col. W's theory on chem[covered] grounds, and argued that bitumen itself must ha[covered] had a vegetable origin. But suppose there were [covered] the older epochs no vegetable supply of carbon equ[covered] to the formation of coal beds, still we have remains [covered] animals which chemical analysis prove to have been able to furnish it.
Several gentlemen continued the discussion.
Col. WHITTLESEY remarked, in closing, that he was perfectly well satisfied with his theory, and of all the objections to it brought forward none were new to him, and had he time he could give answers which to himself were satisfactory. To the statement that we get no carbon but from plants, he opposed the question, where did the plants get it? As to remains of wood and plants in coal, he considers them in such cases bitumenized, just as in silicious rocks similar remains are silicified. If all the vegetables which ever grew were cut off from all communication w[covered] everything else we should not get carbon enough [covered] a single coal bed. As to the analogies which[covered] have mentioned between peat beds and those of [covered]here was a fatal difference—peat is formed [covered] kinds of rocks, coal in but a single system.[covered]
The undersigned begs to state that Mr. OSCANYAN, the Oriental Lecturer, will accept invitations to lecture, which Literary Societies may extend to him for the coming season.
His subjects are:For a Single Lecture, | $60 |
Or, for the Course, | 200 |
Mr. OSCANYAN has gained an extensive and favorable reputation for himself as a popular Lecturer; yet, for the satisfaction of the various Lecture Committees, the undersigned takes the liberty to refer to the many distinguished literary gentlemen who have furnished him with testimonials, and also to the unqualified approbation of the public Press.
Communications may be addressed to Mr. OSCANYAN personally, at No. 37 Lafayette Place, New York, as early in the season as possible, to enable him to make his arrangements accordingly.
I have the honor to be, gentlemen, yours, respectfully,
WM. JAY HASKETT, Office, 15 Centre Street, New York. [begin surface 81]Your note of the 30th ult. has this moment come to hand, and I hasten to inform you that I had the pleasure of listening to your Lecture on Turkey, recently delivered in this city, and, I am happy to add, that to me it was exceedingly interesting and instructive; and I regretted to learn soon after, that you had abandoned the idea of continuing your Lectures, and had left the city. Should you visit us again, I hope to hear further, and, in the mean time,
I am truly yours, MILLARD FILLMORE Mr. C. OSCANYAN. NEW YORK, November 24, 1856We take pleasure in stating that we believe the Lectures of Mr. OSCANYAN, upon his native country, its institutions, and society, will be both interesting and instructive to the American public.
I have the pleasure of introducing an old college pupil of mine—Mr. C. OSCANYAN—a very accomplished gentleman of Oriental birth and Western education.
He proposes to deliver some Lectures on his native country at Toronto, which he has delivered in New York and elsewhere, and which, having myself heard, I am able to speak of as very finished and entertaining.
Mr. OSCANYAN's long residence at Constantinople, in the most intimate relations with the Government, the Foreign Embassies, and the best native and Frank Society, has given him extraordinary facilities for obtaining minute and accurate information.
If your lordship would have the kindness to mention him favorably, to such of your friends as you may happen to meet after his arrival, you would greatly oblige,
Yours very sincerely, CHARLES W. HACKLEY, Columbia College. TORONTO, February 26, 1857From the high character of Professor Hackley, who has been long known to me, I believe full confidence may be placed in his letter which speaks so favorably, and I believe, truthfully, of Mr. C. OSCANYAN.
JOHN TORONTO. Extract of a letter from Thomas Montgomery, Esq., of Rochester, to a friend in New York:* * * "In reference to the state of sentiment here towards Mr. OSCANYAN, there has been but one expression from all those I have met who heard him. They were not only gratified, please, but 'delighted.' They are enthusiastic.
"Mr. Humphrey, Chairman of the Athenæum Lecture Committee tells me that Mr. Lansing, also a member of that Commttee , called on him the next morning, after hearing Mr. OSCANYAN's Lecture, and said he was delighted, that they must have him before the Athenæum, etc.
"From all other sources I hear the same eulogiums." * * *
At the conclusion of Mr. OSCANYAN's last course of Lectures on Turkey and her institutions, political, social, moral and religious, at Clinton Hall, on motion of Prof. Hackley, of Columbia College, Rev. Dr. Mathews was called to the chair. On taking it, he made a few remarks expressive of his pleasure and approbation of the lectures. Then Prof. Hackley presented the following resolutions:
Resolved, That the thanks of the audience be presented to Mr. OSCANYAN for his most instructive and entertaining course of Lectures upon Turkey.
Resolved, That Mr. OSCANYAN be requested to repeat the Course, in order that the pleasure it has afforded may be shared by a larger number of our fellow citizens.
—The New York Herald Mr. OSCANYAN, the recent Lecturer on Turkey: SIR:The undersigned, some of whom were so happy as to hear your Course of Lectures on Turkey, and others who were so unfortunate as not to enjoy that pleasure, unite in the earnest request that you would repeat it. Many of the public, like some of themselves, not having been sufficiently apprised of the treat that was in store for them, they doubt not will be glad to avail themselves of the opportunity to repair their loss, which will be afforded by the repetition.
Very truly yours,The undersigned are most desirous that your Lectures, which have excited great interest in the City of New York, should be delivered also in Brooklyn.
Events now are passing in the East, pregnant with might results to humanity at large; but, in order to understand their full importance, we will need a more intimate acquaintance with Oriental institutions—both social and political. We hope, therefore, that you will deliver the Course in our City at your earliest convenience.
Very truly yours,He appeared on the platform in the full costume of a Turk of the working class, bearing in his hand a lantern with a lighted candle in it, explaining it to be the dress worn by carpenters, boatmen, hostlers, servants, &c., illuminating his own path, for the authorities of Constantinople provide no lights in the streets. He explained how the present costume differed from that of thirty years ago, and how Mahmoud, the father of the present Sultan of Turkey, made the innovation. That sovereign wished to raise an army on the European plan which would supplant the turbulent Janizaries; in order to carry out his idea fully, the reforming of the dress, by discarding long and loose garments, and adopting a suit to fit the body more closely was the first step to be taken. At the time of issuing the mandate, the Sultan at once appeared in the new costume; he was followed by his officials at the court, and it soon became the prevailing fashion, by the trading classes adopting it.
Mr. Oscanyan described in clear style the aspects of Constantinople and its vicinity, its people and bazaars, the Sublime Porte, the Mosques, Lunatic Asylum, Seraglio, and other objects of interest. His anecdotes, which were very well told, illustrated his points admirably. He said very little concerning those matters which have been ordinarily treated by travelers, but aimed to give information not easily within the reach of the tourist, especially of the worship of the Musselmen in the Mosque, which, we are all aware, it is morally impossible to be eye witness of—the Mohammedan believing in excluding infidels form his holy places.
The costume of the speaker has more than the charm of novelty in it; it is an actual assistance to the hearer in understanding and appreciating the object; it is to this lecture, what the black board or diagram is to the practical scientific lecture. We are convinced that whoever misses the opportunity of listening to Mr. Oscanyan, looses a rare chance of studying a chapter of Oriental Civilization. He speaks the English language fluently, and can be easily understood.—Union, Rochester, N. Y.
C. OSCANYAN.—The lecture of this gentleman at Sherburne on Wednesday evening, received, as it justly deserved, a crowded house. We were enabled to hear but a portion of it, and therefore took no notes of the same. Mr. OSCANYAN seems perfectly familiar with the history and peculiarities of his people, and his lecture abounded in amusing and instructing anecdotes and passages—practically illustrated by Mr. O., clothed in his oriental "regimentals." After the lecture we were honored, alike with our comrades, with an interview with the Oriental, which fully proved our former idea of his ability. He spoke much better English than three-fourths of our Yankee bred and born, and his knowledge of America and its people is remarkable. The Philomathians may well congratulate themselves on the success thus far attending their efforts in the lecture line.—The Literary Independent, Norwich, N. Y.
It is impossible to give even a good report of such a very unique and interesting lecture. Delivered in distinct and concise language, and illustrated by costume and action the whole was a living picture of the Osmanli—more impressive than any printed page can be. The recitation of the form of prayer, and the exhibition of the prostration (a rikah) was an epitome, almost, of the daily life of a Mohammedan, who washes and prays five times every day. There were many bits of social life portrayed in jokes and witticisms which we have not time nor space to repeat; but can only say that they must always please by their aptness in illustrating the peculiar differences in national habits,—political, religious and social.—Daily Standard, Syracuse.
It is too late now to notice the lecture of Mr. Oscanyan at any length. As a just criterion of its merit, the fact that the audience thought it too short, when it was really near an hour and a half, is highly flattering to the lecturer. Dressed in Oriental costume, he affords a picturesque object of sight, and the matter of his lecture is best attested by the delight of his hearers, who did not become fatigued, in either body or mind, and rose from their seats thinking they had occupied them only twenty-five or thirty minutes, when in truth they had been seated over an hour and a half. We regard this the highest compliment that could be paid the matter of the lecture.—Com. Times, Oswego
Mr. Oscanyan's knowledge of the country and manners which he describes is unsurpassed by that of any other person on this continent, and the great command he has attained of the English language enables him to convey a vivid impression of persons and things to his audience. His proficiency in our language secured for him the appointment of interpreter to Mohammed Pasha, the Turkish Admiral, during his recent visit to this country.—N. Y. Herald.
Replete as Mr. O.'s lectures are with information, breathing the true spirit of the East—for he has lectured in our city eleven times—appearing as he does, in appropriate costumes, illustrative of his subject, and delivered in pure and elegant English, seasoned with amusing anecdotes, they cannot but please and delight the most fastidious audience.—Frank Leslie's Illustrated News, N. Y.
Mr. OSCANYAN, the eminent Orientalist, has accepted several engagements to lecture upon the "Social and Political Affairs of Turkey." No man in America is better fitted for such a task than Mr. OSCANYAN.—Evening Post, N. Y.
These Lectures embrace a mass of curious and valuable information in regard to the Turks and their public and private life, government, religion, trade, literature, and social institutions, which can not elsewhere be obtained.—Tribune, N. Y.
Mr. O. is the first native of Turkey ever educated in this country, and founded the first newspaper published in Constantinople. He is evidently a scholar and a gentleman of talent and refinement. His lecture was clothed in choice English, which was well pronounced, though with a slight accent, and proved highly acceptable to the largest audience that has been called out on a similar occasion in this place, for some time.—Ogdensburg Sentinel.
[begin surface 83]SCENES ON THE OCEAN FLOOR.—Besides the countless varieties of the fucus, the bottom of the sea is overgrown with the curled, deep purple leaves of the sea-lettuce, with large porous lichens, and many branched hollow algæ, full of life and motion in their rosy little bladders, thickly set with ever moving tiny arms. These plants form submarine forests, growing one into another, in apparently lawless order: here interlacing their branches, there forming bowers and long avenues, at one time thriving abundantly, till the thicket seems impenetrable then again leaving large openings between wold and wold, where smaller plants form a beautiful pink turf. There a thousand hues and tinges shine and glitter in each changing light. In the indulgence of their luxurious growth, the fuci especially seem to gratify every whim and freak. Creeping close to the ground, or sending long-stretched arms, crowned with waving plumes, up to the blessed light of heaven, they form pale-green sea-groves where there is neither moon or star, or rise up nearer to the surface, to be transcendently rich and gorgeous in brightest green and purple. And, through this dream-like scene playing in all the colors of the rainbow, and deep under the hollow, briny ocean, there sail and chase each other merrily gaily-painted mollusks and bright shining fishes. Snails of every shape creep slowly along the stems, while huge, gray-haired seals hang with their enormous tusks on large, tall trees. There is a gigantic Dugong, the siren of the ancients, the side long shark with his leaden eyes, the thick-haired sea-leopard, and the sluggish turtle.. Look how these strange, ill-shapen forms, which ever keep their dreamless sleep far down in the gloomy deep, stir themselves from time to time! See how they drive each other from their rich pastures, how they seem to awaken in storms, rising like islands from beneath, and snorting through the angry spray! Perhaps they graze peacefully in the unbroken cool of the ocean's deep bed, when lo! a hungry shark comes slyly, silently around that grove; its glassy eyes shine ghost-like with a yellow sheen, and seek their prey. The sea dog first becomes aware of his dreaded enemy, and seeks refuge in the thickest recesses of the fungus forest. In an instant the whole scene changes. The oyster closes its shell with a clap, and throws itself into the deep below; the turtle conceals head and feet under her impenetrable armor, and sinks slowly downward; the playful little fish disappear in the branches of the marocystis; lobsters hide under the thick, clumsily shapen roots, and the young walrus alone turns boldly round, and faces the intruder with his sharp pointed teeth. The battle commences; both seek the forest; their flas become entangled in the closely interwoven branches; at last the more agile shark succeeds in wounding his adversary's side. Despairing of life, the bleeding walrus tries to conceal his last agony in the woods, but, blinded by pain and blood, he fastens himself among the branches, and soon falls an easy prey to the shark, who greedily devours him.—Putnam's Magazine.
ORIGIN OF COAL.—Dr. David Dale Owen, in a recent lecture at Vincennes upon Agricultural Chemistry, incidentally alludes to the origin of coal. The Doctor is not a believer in the theory of the vegetable origin of coal, but, in the language of the Gazette, is an advocate of the more modern and rational idea that coal is the condensation or the solidification of the vast volumes of the carbonic gases that surrounded the world before the temperature of the earth and its atmosphere had been reduced to a condition to support animal life—into vegetables and woods and the condensation of them into those vast store-houses of fuel—or coal strata—for the future use of man, that prepared the earth first for the rougher animals, and finally for a habitation for man. This is undoubtedly the true theory, and most beautifully illustrates the beneficent providence of the Creator, who transformed the most fatal substance to man's existence in the early periods of the world, to be one of his chiefest blessings in the maturer ages of the earth, when man should be fitted for and need its use. And thus are all apparent evils upon earth made in His infinite providence, the basis of great good to this subjects of the Divine government. In reference to manuring, the Doctor remarked: "The idea of manuring land from the atmosphere was novel to some, who were surprised to learn that the ammonia deposited by the rain on each acre of land, in a year, was sufficient with is accessories to produce two tons of vegetable matter. This explained the difference between rain and irrigation to the plants. The importance of preserving the ammonia of manures, by covering them from the action of the air, and carrying the drainage from them into cisterns to be carried in a liquid over the land, was made very evident to the farmer."
The commencement of Arctic exploration, according to Mr. Sargent, dates from an earlier period than is usually supposed. It seems to be established by the researches of northern antiquaries that Newfoundland, Greenland, and several parts of the American coast, were visited by the Scandinavians in the ninth and tenth centuries. Within two centuries from that time these daring sea-rovers made their way to the seventy-second degree of latitude, and set up stones with Runic inscriptions dated 1135 on the islands in Baffin's Bay where they were discovered in 1824. The colonists on the eastern coast of this bay kept up intercourse with Europe until 1406, when it was interrupted by the accumulation of ice. In the year 1380 voyagers from the south of Europe were attracted toward those dreary regions, and two Venetian navigators named Teni brought home accounts of what they had there seen, not knowing that the Scandinavians had preceded them by three centuries.
It was not till the reign of Henry VI., that the enterprise of British navigators was directed to a quarter in which they have since won such brilliant renown, although without achieving the main object of their ambition. In 1497, the younger Cabot landed at Labrador, eighteen months before Columbus saw the mainland of tropical America. In a further attempt to reach the pole, he sailed up to 67 ½° of north latitude. Sir Hugh Willoughby, Frobisher, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, Davis, Hudson, and other English and Russian navigators, successively enlarged the limits of research until in 1743 the British Parliament offered a reward of twenty thousand pounds to any any one who should sail to the north-west by way of Hudson's Strait. After the ineffectual attempt to reach the North Pole by Capt. Phipps in 1773, and by Capt. Cook in 1776, there was a cessation of Arctic enterprises for many years; when in 1816 it was reported by the Greenland whalers that the sea was clearer of ice than any former time within their knowledge. This gave a new impulse to the spirit of research, and in 1818 the first expedition of Ross and Parry was dispatched for the discovery of the North-West Passage. At the same time, Buchan and Franklin were intrusted with the command of an expedition to the North Pole, and after almost incredible perils returned in the Autumn of the same year. In 1819 Capt. Parry sailed at the head of a new expedition, commencing the career of northern discovery, which has given such prominence to his name among modern navigators. From that time the progress of Arctic research has become familiar to most intelligent readers. It has been signalized by the spirit of adventure, the heroic courage and the wonderful power of endurance exhibited by the explorers, rather than by its positive results in the interests of science or of commerce. [cutaway]
J. R. C., Kenzer's Station, Pa.—As early as the middle of the seventeenth century there were short roads made of wooden rails, in and about Newcastle, England. These were called tram-ways, and were used for transporting coals short distances. In 1738 iron was used for rails, instead of wood, at Whitehaven, for short distances. The first considerable iron railroad was at Colebrook Dale, in 1786. The first extensive work of the kind is the Liverpool and Manchester Railway (by engines) which was opened in September, 1830.
The first railway built in the United States was the Quincy and Boston, in 1827. It was used to convey granite for the Bunker Hill Monument. This was followed in 1835 by the Boston and Providence, Boston and Worcester, and Boston and Lowell. In 1836 the Utica and Schenectady Railway was opened. In 1837 the Baltimore and Wilmington, and Providence and Stonington went into operation. The Worcester and Springfield was completed in 1839, and in 1840 the Housatonic was added to the number.
The famous Rosetta Stone, the name of which is very widely known, and which has been seen by thousands in the Egyptian Gallery of the British Museum, was discovered by a French officer named BASSARD, in NAPOLEON's Egyptian campaign. Rosetta is at the mouth of the west branch of the Nile, to which it gives its name, and is distant about 36 miles from the better known seaport of Alexandria. The stone, a block of black Sienite, bears three inscriptions, one in Greek, another in hieroglyphics, and a third in the Demotic character, in which the dialect of the unlearned was then written. The Greek inscription was almost perfect, and showed that is purpose was to record a decree of the priests, appointing divine honors to be paid to PTOLEMY, EPIPHANES, son of PHILOPATOR. The grounds for the decree are stated clearly: The King had suppressed a rebellion, lightened taxes, and restored the priests and the affairs of religion to a much more important position than they had for a long time enjoyed. The date of the decree is determined, by reference to history, to have been about 196 B. C., when the King was some eight or ten years old, the glories ascribed to him being in reality due to his minister, ARISTOMENES. The value of the Greek, however, lay in affording a clear guide to the meaning of the other two inscriptions, since the decree was to be written in "Greek, in the language of the god, and in the language of the multitude." When the English power became victorious in Egypt, the Rosetta Stone was made one of the trophies, and brought to England, where it was in 1802 laid before the Society of Antiquaries. From that time many illustrious scholars, including PORSON, have studied the inscriptions; and the knowledge, both of the Hieroglyphic or sacred, and of the Demotic or common characters has been much increased in consequence. A plaster cast of the stone having been presented to the Philomathean Society of the University of Pennsylvania, in 1856, by Mr. T. K. CONRAD, that Association appointed Messrs. C. R. HALE, S. HUNTINGTON JONES and HENRY MORTON to draw up a report and make translations of the inscriptions. The result is before us. The book is not printed, but lithographed from their handwriting; which together with the profuse and admirable illustrations of Mr. MORTON, most of which represent Egyptian objects usages or places, gives the volume of an air of curious luxury. Mr. HALE edits the Greek text, gives a fac-simile of the Demotic, and translations of both; Mr. MORTON, with Mr. HALE, translates the Hieroglyphics, literally from the text in the Egyptian order, and also into the English grammatical construction; and Mr. JONES gives a compendious account of PTOLEMY EPHIPHANES, his guardians, and the state of Egyptian affairs during his reign.
We have gone carefully through the Greek text and the translations of it. Mr. HALE's translation is faithful, and his conjectural restorations are based upon the meaning given by the two Egyptian inscriptions. Of the translation of these latter we shall be excused from speaking, when it is remembered that a knowledge of Coptic is necessary for adequate criticism. We are sorry to notice that the Greek contains a considerable number of mistakes in spelling, and that the English is defaced in places in the same manner. This must be attributed solely to the whim of the authors for lithographing their writing; had they printed, they must have discovered the errors in the proof-sheets. We have the more regret in finding this slight defect, as the otherwise exquisite volume is so plainly a labor of love, and the intelligence and study brought to bear on their subject make it a tenfold pity that the authors should leave manuscript slips to be thus perpetuated.
The translation of the Demotic text is, we believe, the first complete one published; and the whole essay is the first thing of the kind ever issued in this country. The labor and judgment of Messrs. HALE & MORTON leads us to hope that they will investigate the subject more thoroughly, and become distinguished in a branch of study for which they evidently have strong inclination.
A copy of this work was sent to Baron HUMBOLDT, and his letter of acknowledgement will be read with interest, especially as it was written within so short a time of his death. We transcribe it entire.
"I have received with a very lively interest the 'Report of the Committee of the Philomathean Society of the University of Philadelphia,' to translate the inscription on the Rosetta Stone, by the reunion of CHAS. R. HALE, HUNTINGTON JONES, and HENRY MORTON.
The scientific analysis of the celebrated inscription of Rosetta, which, despite the confusion of the hieroglyphic style, remains an historic monument of great importance, has appeared to me especially worthy of praise, since it offers the first essay at independent investigation offered by the literature of the New Continent. It is for this national relation that I especially greet this independent work. Little versed myself in this class of studies, I ought, however, to greet the so conscientious work of the learned Committee of the Philomathean Society, since the results now obtained contribute to prove the justice of the system of Champollion, to which my brother, WILLIAM VON HUMBOLDT, was the first to render justice in Germany. The picturesque ornaments added by Mr. HENRY MORTON, add to the interest inspired by a work well worthy to be widely spread in your learned and free country.
I pray Mr. CHARLES R. HALE to receive with kindness the homage of my sentiments of high and affectionate consideration. I have placed the book in the hands of Doctor BRUGSCH, who has already twice traveled through Egypt, and cleared up with sagacity, the geographical division of the ancient homes of Egypt.
Your humble and very obedient servant,
The Baron ALEXANDER DE HUMBOLDT. BERLIN, Saturday, March 12, 1859."
The Rev. W. S. Studley delivered his lecture on Artisans and Artists at the Washington st. M. E. Church last night to a rather small audience.
The lecturer opened with a homily upon the fast tendencies of the age. This spirit of progressiveness carried to excess leads to superfiiciality ; we do not wait to arrive at logical conclusions, to ascertain if we are right, before we go ahead, but keep on reckless of consequences. This spirit makes men reckless of wholesome re-restraint, and sometimes throws down the barriers that protect our social and moral welfare. Society has become so fast that we might seem to be lineal descendants of Jehu, and always driving. The result of this progressive spirit is to make men dissatisfied with the slow methods of obtaining a competency by honest industry, and brings labor into contempt. To labor for his means of livelihood is the natural condition of man, and idleness is sinful in the eyes of God. It was one of the greatest evidences of the elevation of the human race that strife among nations was now becoming manifest in the arts of peace rather than of war; in competition in the arts and sciences and commerce, a far better way of using men's brains than knocking them out with bullets and battle axes. Man by nature was a lazy animal, and needed constant stimulus to exertion. If their civilization is to be determined as a recent writer has said by the amount of iron a nation used, then the ancients would compare favorably with modern nations, for all their warlike and agricultural implements were of iron, and copper was used in greater abundance than it is now. But we have better evidence than this of the skill of ancient nations in the arts and sciences. Noah's Ark was the most perfect model of a ship ever built; the Tabernacle of the Jews, showed a skill in architecture never surpassed, while the Temple of Solomon, contained wonders of art, if we are to believe the descriptions handed down to us, never equalled. These attest the skill of the Hebrews in the useful and ornamental arts. Babylon derives much of its historical importance from the skill of its artists and artisans.
Its walls, towers, palaces, terraces and hanging gardens were wonders of art; and so immense were the structures that several of the cities that now surround the site of ancient Babylon, were built from the stone taken from the ruins. Egypt had been called the cradle of the sciences, and her monuments of skill of her people remain yet to attest her claim. When the Jews were a wandering tribe, warring with the Canaanites the arts and sciences flourished in Egypt. Nor was it alone in architecture, sculpture and ornamental arts that the Egyptians were skilled in; glass, erroneously supposed to have been used only towards the end of the reign of Augustus, was made by the Egyptians 1600 or 1700 years before Christ. Specimens of their skill in its manufacture have been found, which shows that their glass blowers and cutters surpassed in skill those of the present day. Among the specimens was an obelisk of emerald glass, sixty feet high. The coloring shows that they had knowledge of chemicals, and particularly of the use and properties of the metallic oxides. Next to Egypt, Greece ranks as he seat of the arts and sciences. The early law givers gave every encouragement to industry in their enactments, and elevated labor and skill in the useful arts. The artists and artizans of Greece had done more towards achieving her historical eminence than all her statesmen, poets and orators. Rome devoted more attention to providing for the wants of the people. They built bridges and roads. Their roads have never been equalled; we have nothing to compare with them at the present day. The Appian way, part of which crossed the Pontine marshes, was described nine hundred years after it was built as being perfect, with no sign of wear or decay; part of this road is yet to be seen. The Romans however did not neglect the ornamental arts. Livy computed that the number of statues in Rome was equal to the number of people. The Coliseum remains yet as the greatest monument of the skill of their artists and artizans. Archimides by his inventive skill saved the Syracusans for three years from coming beneath the Roman yoke. He invented machines that hurled ponderous masses of stone on the besiegers, sunk their galleys, and if the Roman soldiers came close to the walls, they were grappled by hooks and raised up in the air and dashed to the earth again. Rhodes is indebted for its fame to the famed colossal statue of Apollo in bronze, which spanned one of the entrances to their harbor. The statue was 1[covered]5 feet high, and it is computed contained 720,000 pounds of brass. Ephesus in like manner is famous for its Temple of Diana, which was 220 years in building. In like manner Tyre, Sidon, Cornith, Damascus and many other cities are famed for the works of their artizans and artists. The man who helps no matter how humbly, to perfect the arts and sciences, contributes to the greatness of his country; all the really great men of any country are those who aid its industrial progress. This has come to be recognised; labor is assuming its rightful position, the world demands that a man shall receive honor only for what he has done to improve the mental and moral condition of his fellow men. Among modern nations Germany had ranked first for her skill in the material arts and sciences, and a great number of useful inventions and discoveries came from Germany, among them the art of printing, the invention of clocks and optical instruments, &c. At the world's fair in London America at first made but a poor show among the exhibitors, and this was a subject for the taunts and sneers of the English journals, and foremost among them the London Times; but before the close of the exhibition the Times acknowledged that Great Britain had received more practical benefits and more useful knowledge from American skill than from all the rest of the world; the American invention of the "grain-cutter" alone would be worth more to England than the whole cost of the exhibition. At the world's fair at Paris, held more recently, Americans took the premiums for all the useful and really valuable inventions. These facts could not be looked upon without interest, as foreshadowing the destiny of the New World. The true elements of greatness were ours; already we had outstripped other nations in the exhibitions of skill in the arts and sciences, and our career had but just commenced. The skill of our countrymen in the arts and sciences had done more to make the American names respected abroad than all our victories by sea or land.
The lecturer was warmly applauded at the close.
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Dr. Doremus delivered his concluding lecture on the physiology of the earth, at the Institute last evening. The previous lectures were devoted to an explanation of the relationship between the earth and the other members of our solar system, and also of the different elements of our globe to each other. The lecture last evening was on the relationship between these elements and animal life, including the high nature of man. First the atmosphere was explained and the proportion of its constituents; four-fifths being Nitrogen, which is only useful to dilate the Oxygen, which makes up one-fifth of the atmosphere. The other constituent is Carbonic Acid, of which there is about one to four parts in every ten thousand. It is essential to the life of plants.
It was only within a century that the nature of the atmosphere had been discovered by Priestly. It was formerly believed that man had the power of resisting decomposing forces while he lived, but when he died they had full power over his frame; while the fact is that the frame is being dissolued by every respiration into aeriform matter; the waste being supplied by food and air. The lecturer then referred to the primitive atmosphere of the earth when the gigantic growths of vegetation took place which have since become coal, and how they absorbed the excess of carbon and rendered the earth fit for the habitation of man. The necessity of a nice adjustment of the constituents of the atmosphere to human life, and the fatal consequences of an excess of carbon were fearfully exemplified in the Black Hole of Calcutta, where 140 or 150 people were confined in the same room for a night and all died except 30, who soon after died of disease.
The rain washed down the carbonic acid and ammonia and other matters which were in the atmosphere, (where they would be injurious to life if present in any great quantities,) to the plants which they fed. The importance of water was recognised by the Greeks who called it the Oinon Catholicon or universal wine. It has dissolvent powers upon which our life, in a great degree depends. We know that our bones are similar in the matter they are composed of to the rocks, and this happens by the water dissolving portions of these rocks and in that dilucent condition it enters the system. The rocks are all metallic, but they do not occur in a purely metallic state, but as oxides, or in combination with acids, as salts. If they were in the pure metallic state they would be almost useless; for a mass of copper on the shore of Lake Superior of 40 feet long, 30 high and 8 deep, was many years ago pronounced useless, because it could only be reduced to small quantities by chipping it with chisels or cutting instruments, and the labor would exceed its value.
But as oxides they can be easily fused and moulded into any form. The lecturer then proceeded to show the influence of heat and light on vegetation: plants at the pole, where the sun shines continually for months, the flowers bud and blossom, and produce fruit in two or three weeks; while in the temperate latitudes they require as many months. In the equitorial regions there is the highest development of vegetable and animal life, but the lowest standard of intellect and morals. Plants are limited to particular zones, some blooming only at the north, others only in the tropics, and others in the
temperate zones; and so of animals; but man can adapt himself to any latitude. The highest order of animals, those which imitate man's actions, such as the orang outang, the chimpanzee or monkey, never attempt to handle fire.
The sun, as the great dispenser of light and heat, was adored by the ancients. The earth is not always the same distance from the sun; but as laid down in the law of Kepler, it revolves around the sun in an ellipse, and we are sometimes three millions of miles nearer the sun than at other times. Why the earth is not warmer when nearest the sun is explained by several interesting phenomena, to wit: the great portion of the land on the earth's surface being crowded to the north, and the land absorbes more heat during the day, and radiates more at night than the water; it heats and cools more readily; and this accounts also for the fact that the interior of a country is more under the extremes of heat and cold than the seabord: and also the more rapid revolution of the earth, while near the sun.
We cannot follow the lecturer through his interesting illustrations, in which the effect of climate on the human race was depicted; the first or hunter condition being the lowest developement and society, then the shepherd nomadic life, then as the tribes migrated to the south, the agricultural phase; followed by commerce and succeeded by enervating luxury; until new inroads of hardy barbarians from the north which inforced vigor into countries they devastated. The earth seemed to have been formed for the westward march of civilization; the descent of the Asiatic tribes to Europe, and their final transfer to America, whose geography seemed to demand its settlement by Europeans. Had the Andes and Rocky Mountains been placed along the Atlantic shore then we should have to look to China for settlers.
The physical geography of this country emphatically declares that it is intended for one people. If we could root up the Andes and Rocky Mountains and plant them east and west, then we might talk of a northern and southern nation. He then reviewed the effect of climate and geography on man's spiritual nature; the tribes inhabiting prolific regions demanding a visible physical god; then the Greeks and Romans coming up to the conception of intellectual gods; and finally the Christian world acknowledging a god not only of power but of love, not only to be regarded with fear, but with affection.
H. M.—Coral reefs or islands are the production of very small animals, called animalculæ. The greatest depth of the "dim, dark sea," as "old ocean" is sometimes very poetically called, is supposed to be about three miles.
[cutaway]The Tribune published a lugubrious article a few days since, on the commercial prospects of the world, from which we make the following quotation:—
"Unless we are grievously mistaken, we shall have less food to export from this year's crop than from almost any other since 1836.
How, then, are we to pay for the Three Hundred Millions' worth of foreign products that we are pretty certain to import during 1857?
Cotton may possibly pay half of it; but that is an extravagant estimate. It were safer to count on an export of Two and a Half Millions of bales, of four hundred pounds each, averaging 12½ cents per pound—in all, One Hundred and Twenty five Millions of Dollars. If we realize One Hundred Millions more from everything we can send abroad except Specie and Bonds, we shall do very well. If we export Thirty Millions of Specie, it will just about suffice to pay the interest on our Foreign Debt, in its various forms of Public Debt, State Debts, Railroad Stocks, Bonds, &c. If we have not miscalculated, all we import this year beyond Two Hundred and Fifty Millions' worth, we must run just so much deeper in debt for; while our Imports up to the 1st of July will not have fallen much if any below Two Hundred Millions. We shall have then Fifty Millions' worth more to import, and as much beyond as we choose to add to our already burdensome Foreign Debt."
These figures, it must be confessed, are well calculated to make business men feel blue; but when we remember that in our aggregate trade with the whole commercial world, the balance of exports over imports is in our favor over TWELVE MILLIONS OF DOLLARS, the "differences" in our account with England are not at all alarming. From the last authentic tables made up by the Revenue Department at Washington the account for the last fiscal year stands thus:—
Total exports of Domestic and Foreign products | $326,964,908 |
Total Foreign Imports | 314,639,942 |
Balance in favor of the U. S. | $12,324,966 |
A very satisfactory and cheering "balance sheet;" and every year it is likely to grow more and more in our favor, until King Commerce shall establish his throne in Wall street. The resources of the United States are inexhaustible in every product and element that goes to make up the public wealth; and while its population is increasing by emigration as well as by "multiplication," in a ration that alway[cutaway] surpasses the "calculation tables," the harvests and manufactures of every succeeding year must continue to swell the export products of our country, and bring to our coffers the tributary "balances" of the world.
which a certain check would be placed on the abuse of privilege.
The same reasons do not apply to the provision in regard to the previous residence of the parties within the district. On the contrary, it seems very necessary to prevent the sudden irruption of a couple into the district of the Registrar, for no purpose but that of marriage—and for this reason, among others, that if parties resident at a distance, and utterly unknown to the neighbourhood before or afterwards, were entitled to use the Register, the benefit of its publicity would be, to a great extent, neutralized, and it would not afford the necessary protection against double marriages.
We had intended to close these remarks by an account of the proposed system of Registration of Births, Deaths, and Marriages, and the machinery contemplated by the statute. But our limits are already exhausted. We shall onl[illegible] observe in leaving the subject, that we hope that both the details and the principles of these measures will be extensively and thoroughly canvassed. There may perhaps be various points of expression, arrangement, or enactment, in which they admit of improvement. We are not without the hope that our next County Meetings, and General Assemblies, will be found quietly canvassing the details of a great national question, with a single and patriotic desire for the social welfare of the people, unterrified by the shadows of coming assessments, or the bugbear of the imagined influence of dissent. It is a subject on which both classes are well entitled to be heard, and to have their deliberate and temperate opinions considered with attention and respect. But if they sink the influence they should possess, in unreasoning and ignorant clamour, they cannot wonder, if stranded by the passing current of public opinion and enlightened legislation, they find their remonstrances fall unheeded on the wearied ears of public men, and their narrow conceptions turned into weapons against them, by those who wish their downfal.
IN the history of Astronomical Discovery there shine no brighter names than those of Sir William and Sir John Herschel—the father and the son. It is rare that the intellectual mantle of the parent lights upon the child. By no culture, however skilful, and no anxieties, however earnest, can we transmit to our successors the qualities or the capacities of the mind. The eagle eye, the active limb, the giant frame, and the "form divine,"—the gifts of our mortal being, are frequently conveyed by natural descent, and may be numbered even among the rights of primogeniture; but the higher developments of reason and fancy, the bright coruscations of the soul, have never been ranked among the claims or the accidents of birth. The gifts of fortune which we inherit or acquire, have been placed more immediately at our disposal, and in many cases have been handed down unimpaired to distant generations; but Providence has reserved for its own distribution, those transcendental powers which give omnipotence to genius, and constitute its possessor the high priest of nature, or the vicegerent of Heaven. In a destiny so lofty, the father and the son have been rarely associated; and in the very few cases in which a joint commission has been issued to them, it has generally been to work in different spheres, or at different levels. In the universe of mind, the phenomenon of a double star is more rare than its prototype in the firmament, and when it does appear we watch its phases and its mutations with a corresponding interest. The case of the two Herschels is a remarkable one, and may appear an exception to our general law. The father, however, was not called to the survey of the heavens till he had passed the middle period of life, and it was but a just arrangement, that the son, in his youth and manhood, should continue and complete the labours of his sire. The records of Astronomy do not emblazon a more glorious day than that, in which the semidiurnal arc of the father was succeeded by the semidiurnal arc of the son. No sooner had the evening luminary disappeared amid the gorgeous magnificence of the west, than the morning star arose, bright and cloudless in its appointed course.
It has long been a subject of regret to the astronomical world, that in our language no extended account has yet been published of the life and discoveries of Sir William Herschel. With the exception of a short Biographical Memoir, * and a popular abstract of his astronomical observations on
* Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, April, 1823, Vol. VIII., pp. 209-226. [begin surface 140]and by means of a micrometer for taking the angle of position, described at the end of the paper, he obtained measures of its angle of position with the same fixed star. Although M. Messier, to whom Mr. Herschel communicated his observations, and who had with some difficulty observed it, speaks of it in his reply as a star or a comet, yet neither of them suspected it to be a planet. Mr. Herschel, indeed, himself speaks of it as "a moving star, which he was happy to surrender to the care of the Astronomer Royal and others."
Before the close of the year 1781, Mr. Herschel, in a letter to Sir Joseph Banks, announced to the Royal Society, that, "by the observations of the most eminent astronomers in Europe, the new star which he had the honour of pointing out to them in March, 1781, is a primary planet of our Solar System;" and in gratitude to his Majesty George III., "to whose unlimited bounty he owed everything," he gave it the name of the GEORGIUM SIDUS, a compliment which astronomers in every part of the world have refused to pay. La Lande, and others, gave it the more appropriate name of Herschel; but the uniformity of astronomical nomenclature demanded another name, and the appellation of Uranus, sanctioned by more recent discussions, was given to the new planet.
This important discovery, by which the limits of the Solar System were extended to nearly double their former amount, was hailed by the astronomers of every country, and the highest expectations were formed of the future labours of Mr. Herschel. The Royal Society of London elected him a Fellow of their body. His Majesty George III. did himself the honour of granting him a salary of £300 a year, so as to enable him to devote his time to astronomical research; and all the scientific bodies in Europe successively admitted him into the list of their members.
With the fine telescopes in his possession, Mr. Herschel began, in October, 1781, to make a series of observations on the light, diameter, and magnitude of the new planet; and in his paper on this subject read at the Royal Society on the 7th December, 1782, he described the dark and lucid disc and periphery micrometers by which these observations were made. With this apparatus, by means of which one eye, looking into the telescope, throws the magnified image of a planet or comet upon, or near, lucid discs seen by the other eye, he found the diameter of the Georgium Sidus to be four seconds; and from the distance of the planet from the Sun, as calculated and sent to him by La Lande (18˙913—that of the Earth being 1), he found its diameter to be 4˙454 times that of the earth.
The researches of Mr. Herschel on the Parallax of the Fixed Stars, which we have already mentioned, were chiefly of a speculative nature, and the result of them was published in the Philosophical Transactions for 1782. The method first pointed out by Galileo, and followed by Flamstead and Bradley, of measuring the zenith distances of two stars, was regarded by Mr. Herschel as liable to various sources of error; and he was of opinion that though Bradley regarded the maximum parallax as not exceeding 1", yet "the stars of the first magnitude might still have a parallax of several seconds." The method which he substituted, and which had been originally suggested by Galileo, in his Systema Cosmicum, consisted in employing two stars as near to each other as possible, and differing as much in magnitude as could be found, and determining their exact place at the two opposite points of the earth's annual orbit. The parallax of the stars was then to be computed by a theory founded on probabilities, and involving the two postulates: 1. That the stars are, "one with another, about the size of the sun; and, 2. That the difference of their apparent magnitudes is owing to their different distances;" so that a star of the second, third, or fourth magnitude is two, three, or four times as far off as one of the first. This method, ingenious as it is, has not led to any results on which confidence can be placed. The postulates which it involves were contrary to all analogy, and have been completely disproved by the only measures of parallax which have been recently obtained. But, like many other speculations, the attempt to prove or to apply them led to results more important than those which they directly contemplated. In searching for double stars suitable for his purpose, Mr. Herschel was led to the formation of those magnificent catalogues of double stars by which he enriched astronomy, and those interesting results respecting the movements and periods of binary systems, which now form the most interesting portion of sidereal astronomy.
To us who are in possession of the researches on double stars, which we owe to Mr. Herschel and his son, to Sir James South and M. Struve, it is interesting to mark the first steps in this great inquiry. "I took pains," says Mr. Herschel, "to find out what double stars have been recorded by astronomers; but my situation permitted me not to consult extensive libraries, nor indeed was it very
[begin surface 141]material. For as I intended to view the heavens myself, Nature—that great volume—appeared to me to contain the best catalogue upon this occasion. However, I remembered that the star in the head of Castor, that in the breast of the Virgin, and the first star in Aries, had been mentioned by Cassini as double stars. I also found that the nebula in Orion was marked in Huygens' Systema Saturnium as containing seven stars, three of which (now known to be four) are very near together. With this small stock I began, and, in the course of a few years' observations, have collected the stars contained in my catalogue. I find, with great pleasure, that a very excellent observer (Mr. Pigott) has also, though unknown to me, met with three of those stars that will be found in my catalogue; and upon this occasion, I also beg leave to observe, that the Astronomer-Royal showed me, among other objects, a Hercules as a double-star, which he had discovered some years ago. The Rev. Mr. Hornsby also, in a conversation on the subject of the stars that have a proper motion, mentioned π Bootis as a double star. It is a little hard upon young astronomers to be obliged to discover over again what has already been discovered. However, the pleasure that attended the view when I first saw these stars, has made some amends for not knowing they had been seen before me." *
Mr. Herschel's first Catalogue of Double Stars was read at the Royal Society on the 10th January, 1787. It contains 269 double stars, 227 of which had not been noticed by any other person. It gives the comparative size of the stars, their colour, their distances (as measured by a Lamp Micrometer, † exhibiting two movable lights, with whose distance seen by the unassisted eye the distance of the stars seen in the telescope was compared), their angle of position, and the dates of the observation. The catalogue, which is divided into six classes, contains not only double stars, but also those that are triple, double-double, quadruple, double-triple, and multiple.
Mr. Herschel had now removed to Datchet, near Windsor, where he carried on his observations under the immediate patronage of the King, with new zeal and corresponding success. Towards the end of 1782, he completed his interesting paper—"On the proper motion of the Sun and the Solar System, with an account of several changes that have happened among the fixed stars since the time of Mr. Flamstead." In this paper, he notices, 1. The stars that have been lost, or undergone some capital change since Flamstead’s time; 2. Those that have changed their magnitude; 3. Those that have newly become visible; and the results which he obtained were drawn from a review of all the stars in Flamstead's catalogue, as far as the 12th magnitude, "to the amount of a great many thousands of stars." Those changes which arise from a proper motion of the star, and a variation of magnitude, he suspects may be owing to every star in the heavens being more or less in motion; some, especially in slow motions, arising from their revolving around a large opaque body,—the stars undergoing occasional occultation, or presenting to us large spots in their rotatory movements. Hence he is led to believe, what Tobias Mayer had previously maintained, that the Sun and Solar System have analogous motions, and are advancing to a certain part of the heavens; and he found that this part was in the constellation Hercules, near the star λ, or a point somewhat further to the north.
Having finished in the year 1783, a very good twenty-feet reflector, with a large aperture, he employed it in studying the remarkable luminous spots at the pole of the planet Mars; and he published the results of his observations in the Philosophical Transactions of 1784. By means of these spots, he found that the axis of Mars was inclined to the ecliptic 59° 42', and that its node was in 17° 47' of Pisces, and he determined the ratio of its polar and equatorial diameters to be as 15 to 16.
Towards the end of 1784, Mr. Herschel completed a second catalogue, containing 434 double stars; and in June, 1784, and February, 1785, he communicated to the Royal Society two papers "On the Construction of the Heavens." By means of his twenty feet telescope, with an aperture of 18 7-10 inches, and placed meridionally, he resolved into stars the nebulæ discovered by Messier and Mechain, and also part of the Milky Way; and he discovered no fewer than 466 new nebulae and clusters of stars, which were not within the reach of the best common telescopes then in use. In pursuing these observations, he was led to the remarkable speculation, founded wholly on optical considerations, that as the Milky Way "seemed to encompass the whole heavens," it might be regarded as an immense cluster of stars; and that our sun, with his system of planets, was in all probability placed within it, but "perhaps not in the very centre of its thickness." In order to determine the sun's place in this sidereal stratum, he gauged the heavens, or ascer-
* After his catalogue was in the possession of the Rogay Society, Mr. Herschel received the fourth volume of the Acta Academiæ Theodoro-Palatinæ, containing a paper by Tobias Mayer, giving "a pretty large list of double stars," some of which were the same with those in his catalogue, while 31 were not contained in it. † Described in the Philosophical Transactions, 1872, p. 163. [begin surface 142]image of every considerable star became triangular, throwing out long flaming caustics at the angles. Having on one occasion supported the speculum simply against a flat-board, at an elevation of about 45°, he found that its performance was tolerably good; but on stretching a thin pack-thread vertically down the middle of the board, so as to bring the weight of the metal to rest upon this thread, the images of stars were lengthened horizontally "to a preposterous extent, and all distinct vision utterly destroyed by the division of the mirror into two lobes, each retaining something of its parabolic figure, separated by a vertical band in a state of distortion, and of no figure at all!" The method which Sir John found the best was the following:—Between the mirror and the back of the case he interposed 6 or 8 folds of thick woollen baize, or blanketing, of uniform thickness and texture, stitched together at their edges. The metal, when laid flat on this bed, was shaken so as to be concentric with the rim of the case, and two supports, composed of several strips of similar baize, were introduced so as to occupy about 30° each, and to leave an arc of about 40° unoccupied opposite the point which was to be the lowermost in the tube. When the case is raised into an inclined position, and slightly shaken, the mirror takes its own free bearing on these supports, and preserves its figure. It is essential, however, to the successful application of this method that many thicknesses of the baize or blanket should be employed, by which only the effect of flexure in the wooden back itself of the case can be eliminated." As the woollen fibres, however, lose their elasticity, the baize should be occasionally taken out, and beaten or shaken up. ✺
In conducting his observations with these fine instruments, Sir John Herschel observed several curious optical effects, arising from peculiar conditions of the atmosphere, incident to the climate of the Cape. In the hot season, from October to March, but particularly during the latter months of that season, "the nights are for the most part superb" at a few miles' distance from the mountains; but occasionally during the excessive heat and dryness of the sandy plains, the "optical tranquillity of the air" is greatly disturbed. In some cases the images of the stars are violently dilated into nebular balls or puffs of upwards of 15´ in diameter. At the end of March, 1834, for example, when Saturn and γ Virginis were both in the field of the 20 feet reflector, "it could not have been told which was the planet and which the star." On other occasions, the stars form "soft, quiet, round pellets of 3´ or 4´ diameter, resembling planetary nebulæ, and quite unlike the spurious discs which they present when not defined. In other cases, these pellets are seen to arise "from an infinitely rapid vibratory movement of the central point in all possible directions," the luminous discs presenting singular phenomena when thrown out of focus, by pushing the eye-piece further in or pulling it further out than its principal focus. *
In the cooler months, from May to October, and especially in June and July, the state of the air is habitually good, and after heavy rains have ceased for a day or two, the tranquillity of the image and the sharpness of vision, is such, that hardly any limit is set to magnifying power, but that which arises from the aberration of the specula. On occasions like these, optical phenomena of extraordinary splendour are produced by viewing a bright star through diaphragms of card-board or zinc, pierced in regular patterns of circular holes by machinery. These phenomena, arising from the interferences of the intromitted rays, and produced less perfectly in a moderate state of the air, surprise and delight every person that sees them. A result of a more valuable kind is obtained when the aperture of the telescope has the form of an equilateral triangle, the centre of which coincides with the centre of the speculum. When close double stars are viewed with the telescope, having a diaphragm of this form, the discs of the two stars which are exact circles, are reduced to about a third of their size, and have a clearness and perfection almost incredible. These discs, however, are accompanied with six luminous radiations running from them at angles of 60°, forming perfectly straight, delicate, brilliant lines, like brightly illuminated threads, running far out beyond the field of view, and, what is singular, capable of being followed like real appendages to the star long after the star itself has left the field. Another optical phenomenon, arising from a peculiar condition of the atmosphere, is described by Sir John Herschel as a "nebulous haze." The effect of it is to encircle every star, of the 9th magnitude and upwards,
*When Sir John adopted this very simple plan, he was ignorant of the very ingenious method by which Lord Rosse affords an equable support to a large speculum, and which we have already described in this Journal, Vol. II. * Sir John supposes that these phenomena may be produced by ascending and descending currents of hot and cold air rotating spirally. [begin surface 143]with a faint sphere of light of an extent proportioned to the brightness of the star. This phenomenon presents itself very suddenly in a perfectly clear sky, free from the slightest suspicion of cloud, and disappears as suddenly, lasting sometimes only for one or two minutes. Sir John Herschel states that similar nebular affections occur in our English climate, but with much less frequency and suddenness in their appearance and disappearance. He at first suspected that the phenomena arose from dew upon the eye-piece, but repeated examination satisfied him that its origin was really atmospheric. In studying the polarization of the atmosphere, the writer of this article has had occasion frequently to observe what appears to be the result of the same cause. When the sky was of a fine blue colour, and free from clouds, and the degree of polarization, as indicated by the Polarimeter, ✺ very great, a sudden change frequently took place without any apparent cause; sometimes near the horizon and not at considerable altitudes, and sometimes at considerable altitudes and not near the horizon. On some occasions the effect was limited in its extent, and of a temporary kind. When it was not temporary, it showed itself in a diminution of the blue tint of the sky, which is invariably accompanied with a diminished polarization, and the whiteness of the sky often increased till clouds were produced, terminating in rain. The cause of these phenomena was doubtless a sudden secretion of aqueous vapour, sometimes local and of a limited extent, and quickly re-absorbed; and at other times general, and terminating in a change of weather. When a cloud passed over a track of perfectly blue sky, without occasioning any perceptible diminution of tint, the polarization of the part of the sky over which it passed was always diminished, owing, no doubt, to its having left in its path a quantity of aqueous vapour.
The description of phenomena, and the tabulated observations contained in the interesting volume now before us, occupy seven chapters, extending over 450 closely printed pages, and are illustrated with seventeen beautifully executed plates, some of which are of a very great size. The valuable contents of these different chapters would doubtless have appeared in a series of unconnected memoirs in the Transactions of the Royal or Astronomical Societies, and
with illustrations very inferior, both in number and quality, had it not been for the munificence of his Grace the late Duke of Northumberland, who destined a large sum for their publication as a single and separate work. This very amiable and public-spirited nobleman, to whom the Observatory at Cambridge owes the gift of the splendid Northumberland achromatic telescope, through which the new planet Neptune was first seen, did not live to witness the final fulfilment of his noble and generous design; but the present Duke, the worthy heir of the titles and the fortune of that distinguished nobleman, carried out, in the fullest manner, the liberal intentions of his lamented brother, and thus added another claim to those which, as Lord Prudhoe, he had already earned, upon the gratitude and esteem of the literary and scientific world.
The following are the subjects which are treated in the volume under our notice:—
Chap. I. On the nebulæ and clusters of stars in the southern hemisphere.
II. On the double stars of the southern hemisphere.
III. Of astrometry, or the numerical expression of the apparent magnitude of stars.
IV. Of the distribution of stars, and of the constitution of the galaxy, or Milky Way, in the southern hemisphere.
V. Observations of Halley's Comet, with remarks on its physical condition, and that of comets in general.
VI. Observations on the Satellites of Saturn.
VII. Observations on the Solar spots.
In the first chapter, on Nebulæ and Clusters of Stars, occupying 164 pages, our author proceeds, after some introductory and explanatory remarks, to give detailed descriptions and monographs of some of the more remarkable of the nebulæ. As some of these nebulae are visible in Europe, and are all objects of singular interest, we shall lay before our readers a very brief notice of the most important of them.
A table showing the "Right Ascension," "North Polar Distance" and "No. of Stars laid down in the drawing" of 7 nebulae.No. 1. This remarkable nebula, which is a nebular line, with the figure of a horseshoe at each end of it, has been observed and drawn by Mr. Mason, and American astronomer, and Mr. Lamont, a native of
*For an account of the polarization of the atmosphere, the reader is referred to Johnston and Berghaus's Physical Atlas, Part VII., and London and Edinburgh Philosophical Magazine, December, 1847. Vol. XXXI, pp. 444-445. VOL. VII. 18 [begin surface 144]possible so to view them." Our author was always satisfied of the reality of this phenomenon at the moment of observation, though the conviction was not permanent, the idea of an illusion arising from physiological causes having subsequently arisen. Sir John has, however, given the right ascension and north polar distance of 37 points of the heavens where this whiteness, or "stippling of the ground of the sky" was seen or suspected. In like manner, he has given the places of the points where the ground of the sky is perfectly dark or black, and "certainly devoid of any such stippling or nebulous phenomenon.
On the 25th of October, 1837, Sir John was fortunate enough to obtain a view of the anxiously expected comet of Dr. Halley, and in his fifth chapter, occupying 21 pages, and constituting, in our opinion, one of the most interesting portions of his work, he has given his observations on this singular member of the solar system, illustrating them with thirteen beautiful drawings of it, and adding some curious speculations on its physical condition, and on that of comets in general. On the 29th October, its appearance was most singular, and such as he had never observed in any previous comet. Its nucleus small, bright, and highly condensed, was shielded or capped on the side next the sun by a vivid but narrow crescent of nebulous light, the front of which presented an outline nearly circular, with an amplitude of about 90° from horn to horn. Within this was situated the nucleus, but at a distance behind the front or vertex of the crescent, considerably less than its versed sine. ✺ On the 1st of November, it had the common appearance of a comet, with its nucleus and slightly diverging tail; but on the 26th January, after its return from the sun, it had assumed a most surprising and totally new appearance. Its head was sharply terminated, like a ground glass-lamp shade; and within this head was seen "a vividly luminous nucleus," like “a miniature comet, having a nucleus head and tail of its own, perfectly distinct, and considerably exceeding in intensity of light the nebulous head." As the comet rose higher, a minute bright point, never greater than 4ʺ, and like a small star, was distinctly perceived, and this point Sir John calls the nucleus. On the 25th January, the following measures were taken:—
Diameter of the comet's head in R Ascension, 229ʺ.4 13h 38m Distance of the nucleus from the vertex, 118ʺ.3 Diameter of the head in Declination, 237ʺ.3 14h 15mUpon repeating these observations in the "strong morning twilight," the results were—
Diameter of the head in R. Ascension, 196ʺ.7 16h 25m Diameter of the head in Declination, 252" 16 29The deficiency in this second measure of the head obviously arose from the effect of twilight; but we can only account for the increase in declination by concluding "that the change was real, and that the comet was actually increasing in dimensions with such rapidity that it might almost be said to be seen to grow!" M. Valz had pointed out the increase in the dimensions of comets as they receded from the sun, but an increase in the ratio of 5 to 6, and in so short an interval, must be regarded as a different phenomenon. On the 26th, the nucleus appeared as a star of the 10th magnitude, furred and nebulous; and the dimensions of the comet had greatly increased, the diameter in right ascension being 309ʺ, and in declination 329ʺ, so that the total bulk of the comet, exclusive of the coma, had greatly more than doubled in 24 hours. On the 28th January, upon looking through the 20 feet reflector, Sir John exclaims—"Most astonishing! The coma is all but gone, but there are long irregular nebulous tails in various directions." The nucleus is now no longer a dim misty speck, but a sharp brilliant point. I cannot, however, raise a well-defined disc on it." "It is like a planetary nebula, a little hazy at the edges, 2ʺ or 2½ʺ in diameter." "I now see a sharp, all but planetary disc, diameter fully 1½ʺ, quite distinct from the haze about it. It is like one of Jupiter's satellites in a thick fog of hazy light." "I can hardly doubt," Sir John adds, "that the comet was fairly evaporated in perihelio by the sun's heat, and resolved into transparent vapour, and is now in process of rapid condensation and re-precipitation on the nucleus." The comet resumed its former size on the 29th, and afterwards gradually disappeared as it receded from the sun. Sir John notices the following points as especially remarkable:—
1st. The astonishingly rapid dilatation of its visible dimensions.
2d. The preservation of the same geometrical form of the dilated and dilating envelope.
3d. The rapid disappearance of the coma; and
* There is no doubt Mr. Cooper's Fan, and M. Arago's "Sector." The tail was obliterated by the twilight, and subsequently appeared. [begin surface 145]4th. The increase in the density and relative brightness of the nucleus.
Our limits will not permit us to discuss the speculative views which these phenomena have suggested to our author. He rejects the hypothesis of Valz, that the volume of the comet is directly proportional to its distance from the sun. He maintains that the laws of gravitation are insufficient to account for such a form of equilibrium as that of the comet, which was paraboloidal, and that such a form, as one of equilibrium, is inconceivable without the admission of repulsive as well as of attractive forces. "But if we admit," he adds, "the matter of the tail to be at once repelled from the sun and attracted by the nucleus, it no longer presents any difficulty." In order to obtain the repulsive power, Sir John hazards a theory which supposes the sun to be permanently charged with electricity. The cometic matters vaporized by the sun's heat, in perihelio, the two electricities separated by vaporization, the nucleus becoming negative and the tail positive, and the electricity of the sun directing the tail, in the same manner as a positively electrified body would an elongated non-conducting body, having one end positively, and the other negatively excited. The separation of Biela's comet into two, travelling side by side, like the Siamese twins, presents a new difficulty which it would not be easy to explain. But here we are beyond our depth; and rather than admit Electricity as an agent residing in every sun and acting upon every system, we remain content with the humbler supposition that the rays of the sun may, in the exercise of their chemical and physical influences, find some ingredients in the tails of comets, upon which, by their joint action, they may generate forces capable of producing the phenomena which we have been considering. If we once admit Magnetism and Electricity as agents in our Sidereal systems, the Mesmerists and Phrenologists will form an alliance with the Astrologer, and again desecrate with their sorceries those hallowed regions on which the wizard and the conjuror have long ceased to tread. *
The elements and perturbations of the sixth satellite of Saturn having been elaborately investigated by Bessel, and very little being known respecting the rest, Sir John Herschel availed himself of his advantageous position at the Cape, to make a series of observations on these interesting bodies. Our readers are no doubt aware that after the fourth satellite had been discovered by Huygens in 1655, Cassini discovered the fifth in 1671, and the first, second, and third, in 1684. Sir W. Herschel discovered, in 1780, the sixth and seventh nearer the planet than the rest, the seventh being the nearest. As this nomenclature was very unsatisfactory, many astronomers named them by given numbers corresponding to their distances from the planet; and Sir John Herschel has proposed to distinguish them by a series of heathen names, as in the following table:
This table lists the names of the satellites of Saturn, their order from the planet, their original order, the discover and date, and the names given to them by Sir J. Herschel.Although it would be difficult to banish from our Solar System the names of the heathen gods by which the primary planets are distinguished, yet we must enter our protest against the admission of a brood of demigods. The nomenclature in the first column of the preceding Table is doubtless the proper one, and the adoption of it can be attended with no more inconvenience than we are accustomed to in analogous matters. If the houses of a street are numbered before it is completed, the numbers must be changed whenever a new house is placed on a vacant area. If it is proper or necessary to give names to the secondary planets, our mythological knowledge must be more extensively put in requisition, for we cannot allow the planet Saturn to have a monopoly of the gods. We must find names for the four satellites of Jupiter, and Uranus; and Neptune will make a similar and a heavy demand upon Lemprière.
Sir John Herschel concludes his work with a Seventh chapter, containing Observations on the Solar Spots, and conjectures respecting their cause. The figures of the spots, of which he has given us thirteen in a very interesting plate, were delineated from
*Our astronomical readers will be gratified to learn the M. Leverrier has found that the periodical comets of 1770 and 1844 are two different bodies; that two of the comets of Faye, Vico, and Lexell, passed close to Jupiter; and that all of these comets, now permanently attached to our system, have come into it and been detained by the action of Jupiter and other bodies. M. Leverrier proves that the comets of Faye and Lexell have been in our system for at least a century, and have come a dozen of times near the earth without being observed. The comet of 1844 he proves to be the same as that of 1678, which has travelled into our system from the depths of infinite space, and been fixed among us centuries ago. It will revisit us in 1849. [begin surface 146]infinitesimal arc of that immeasurable circle in which it is destined to revolve. It is as if the traveller or naturalist, equipped for the survey of nature's beauties and wonders, had been limited only to a Sabbath's journey. Some mountain tops might rise to his view as he creeps along, and some peaks might disappear beyond the horizon which he leaves behind; but had the first man surveyed the constellation Hercules, to which our system is advancing, it would have seemed to him as remote as it will appear to the last of our race.
In the contemplation of the infinite in number and in magnitude, the mind ever fails us. We stand appalled before the mighty spectre of boundless space, and faltering reason sinks under the load of its bursting conceptions. But placed, as we are, on the great locomotive of our system, destined surely to complete at least one round of its ethereal course, and learning that we can make no apparent advance on our sidereal journey, we pant with new ardour for that distant bourne which we constantly approach without the possibility of reaching it. In feeling this disappointment, and patiently bearing it, let us endeavour to realize the great truth from which it flows. It cannot occupy our mind without exalting and improving it. It cannot take its place among our acquirements without hallowing and ennobling them. Though now but a truth to be received, it may yet become a principle of action, and though now veiled by a cloud, it may yet be a lamp to our feet and a light to our ways. Whom God made after his own image, he will not retain in perpetual darkness. What man's reason has made known, man will be permitted to see and to understand. "He that bindeth the sweet influences of the Pleiades, and looseth the bands of Orion, and quieteth Arcturus with his sons," will in His own time "discover deep things out of darkness," and "reveal the ordinances of heaven."
IT has been the good or ill fortune of Dr. Hampden to be the occasion of a controversy, now of some twelve years' standing, in which the real merits of the question at issue form almost the only subject, ecclesiastical or academic, that has not been canvassed. The Oxford convocation of graduates,—its constitution,—the veto of the proctors on its proceedings,—its legal competency to pass a vote of censure on a theological professor, excluding him from the board for naming university preachers,—the moral weight or technical value of such a sentence,—the bearing upon it of another Act, six years later, making the same professor member of another board, the amount of confirmation implied in the refusal, at a still later period, to rescind the original censure;—then, coming down to the present time, the relation in which the judgment of a University stands, or ought to stand, to the practical matter of church-preferment,—the act of the Crown, or its advisers, in appointing to a bishopric a man under an alleged University ban as a heretic,—the propriety of the remonstrance of certain of the bishops,—the force of a congé d'élire,—the terror of a premunire,—the position of a dean and chapter refusing to concur in choosing the Queen's presentee,—the effect of a protest by the dean and an individual canon against the choice, as regards the chance of martyrdom,—the functions of the Archi-episcopal Court for confirming the bishop's election,—the claim of objectors to be heard against the confirmation,—and now, lastly, the jurisdiction of the Court of Queen's Bench amid this chaos of confused forms and laws:—such are a few of the interesting points raised in this edifying controversy,—not to mention the infinite personalities of imputed motives and suspected ends on all sides; while to this hour, the main original inquiry,—Is the worthy Doctor, around whom so great a dust has been gathered, a heretic or a true man?—remains substantially where it was in 1836, when all this stir began.
We have no intention of entering upon this inquiry in the present article. We regard it as an inquiry of the last importance, affecting not only Dr. Hampden’s personal reputation for orthodoxy; but the general condition and tendency of the learned theology of our day. It is an inquiry, also, of no small difficulty, and on this account, as well as from a sense of its vast importance, we would desire to devote more time and space to it than we can now command.
these chapters shall be re-written. Sincerely do we hope that the assured success of this fine production may encourage others to favour the public with equally full and elaborate Dissertations on particular Scripture subjects, this being a department in which our English Biblical literature is wofully deficient.
NINEVAH, or the dwelling of Ninus, was the metropolis of the great Assyrian Empire, the residence of a long line of illustrious princes, and once the largest and most populous city in the world. We learn from the book of Genesis that Asshur, one of the sons of Shem, "went forth" from the land of Shinar, and built Nineveh; but we hear nothing more of it in the sacred writings till Jonah, its inspired missionary, describes it as "a great city," an "exceeding great city of three days' journey," and which required him to take "a day's journey" before he reached the spot from which he was to predict its overthrow. The immense population of this great metropolis is also clearly indicated by the prophet. It contained "more than six score thousand (120,000) persons that could not discern between their right hand and their left hand," and must therefore have contained a population of nearly 600,000.
Although the Ninevites repented at the preaching of Jonah, and were for a while spared, yet the prophet Nahum was, a short time afterwards, commissioned to declare "the burden of Nineveh,"—to announce the destruction of the city, and the downfal of the Assyrian Empire. He describes it as a city with many strongholds, and many gates with bars,—her merchants as multiplied above the stars of heaven,—her inhabitants and princes numerous as the locusts, and the " store and glory" of her "pleasant furniture" as endless. "This is the rejoicing city," says Zephaniah, "that dwelt carelessly, that said in her heart, I am, and there is none besides me: how is she become a desolation, a place for beasts to lie down in!"
These predictions were literally fulfilled by the destruction of the city in the year 606 B.C., by the combined armies of Cyaxares, King of Persia and Media, and Nabopolassar, who was either King of Babylon, or, as Mr. Layard thinks, the Assyrian governor of the city. "He that dasheth in pieces came up before her face;" "the gates of her land were set wide open unto her enemies;" "fire devoured her bars," and "herself;" "the noise of the whip, and of the rattling of the wheels, and of the prancing horses, and of the jumping chariots," resounded in her "broad ways;" "the gates of the river were opened, and the palace dissolved;" "there was no end of the corpses of the slain;" "the spoil of silver and the spoil of gold" were "taken;" "and the voice of her messengers was no more heard;" "the nations saw her nakedness, and the kingdoms her shame;" "Nineveh was laid waste;" "she was made a desolation, and dry like a wilderness."
The account of Nineveh as given by profane historians, the details of its destruction, and its present condition as observed by modern travellers, confirm in a most remarkable manner the statements of the ancient prophets. Its walls are described by profane writers as a hundred feet high, sixty miles in circumference, and defended by 1500 towers, each of which was 200 feet in height. Diodorus Siculus informs us that the city was destroyed partly by water and partly by fire, and that many talents of gold and silver preserved from the flames were carried to Ecbatana. Lucian, a native of Samosata near the Euphrates, who flourished in the second century, (between A.D. 90 and A.D. 180,) informs us that Nineveh had utterly perished,—that not a vestige of it remained, and that no one could even point out the place which it occupied.
During the eighteen centuries which have elapsed since the time of Lucian, Nineveh was known only in its name. Its very ruins had disappeared; and while the traveller and the antiquary were investigating the remains of Greek and Roman grandeur, and the geologist was ranging over the globe to discover and disinter the fossil remains of the primeval world, no inquiry was made after the Nineveh and Babylon of Holy Writ, and no pilgrimage undertaken to search for the buried palaces of the Assyrian kings. Huge mounds, seemingly composed of earth and rubbish, had long ago attracted the notice of travellers in Assyria
[begin surface 148]and Babylonia, and were conjectured to be the remains of their mighty capitals. A vitrified mass of brickwork, Birs Nimroud, rising out of the accumulated rubbish of centuries, was believed to be the tower of Babel. The temple of Belus, according to Herodotus, and other mounds in the neighbourhood, were supposed to be the hanging gardens and marvellous structures attributed to the two Queens, Semiramis and Nitocris; but the difficulty of reaching these localities, though it excited the curiosity of the antiquarian, prevented the traveller from ever paying them a passing visit. The presumed site of the Assyrian metropolis had excited still deeper interest than that of Babylonia. The enormous mounds on the left bank of the Tigris, opposite the modern city of Mosul on the right bank, had been noticed by several travellers; and the traditional tomb of Jonah on the top of one of the mounds, gave probability to the supposition that it marked the site of Nineveh; but notwithstanding this probability, Mr. Macdonald Kinnear, who examined these mounds, was disposed to believe that they were the site of a Roman camp of the time of Hadrian!
It is to the late Mr. Rich, the East India Company's resident at Baghdad, that we owe the first investigation of Assyrian remains. The results of his first examination of the ruins of Babylon near Hillah, which he made in May 1812, with a dissertation on the topography of ancient Babylon, were first published at Vienna in Von Hammer's Oriental Journal, entitled Mines de l'Orient, and this work was afterwards reprinted in England in 1815, under the title of Memoir on the Ruins of Babylon. He found the ruins to consist of mounds of earth, formed by the decomposition of buildings, channelled and furrowed by the weather, and having their surface strewed with pieces of brick, bitumen, and pottery. The grand mass of these ruins is 1100 yards long, 800 yards broad, 50 or 60 feet high, and of a quadrantal form. The next grand heap, of nearly a square form, is 700 yards long, and nearly 100 broad. It is the most interesting portion, according to Mr. Rich, of the ruins of Babylon, every vestige of it indicating its superiority to the rest. In the winding caverns and subterranean passages within are found walls of burnt bricks laid in mortar, with fragments of vessels; and Mr. Rich obtained a sepulchral earthenware urn, with human bones near it, which pulverized with the touch. The other remarkable objects examined by Mr. Rich were the Kasr or Palace, * consisting of several walls
and piers, three different perspective views of which have been published by the author. A mile to the north of the Kasr, and fully five miles from Hillah, is the Mujelibe, which Petro della Valle, and after him Major Rennel, determines to have been the tower of Belus. It is of an oblong, irregular shape. The elevation of the highest angle is 141 feet, the average length of its four sides being about 185 yards. In digging out the earth for a passage in the northern part, Mr. Rich discovered near the top a wooden coffin, containing a skeleton in high preservation. A brass bird outside the coffin, and an inside brass ornament were found; and a little further on was found the skeleton of a child. There were no ruins on the eastern side of the river. Mr. Rich then visited the Birs Nimroud, "the most stupendous and surprising mass of all the remains of Babylon, situated in the desert about six miles to the south-west of Hillah." It is an oblong mound, 762 yards in circumference, having on its summit a solid pile of brick, 37 feet high and 28 broad, perforated by small square holes disposed in rhomboids, and having vitrified masses on its summit. The mound is itself a ruin, channelled and strewed with fragments of all sorts. There is some reason to believe with Niebuhr and Mr. Rich, that Birs Nimroud, "which is pretty nearly in the state in which Alexander saw it," was the tower of Belus, described by Herodotus. *
In Mr. Rich's Second Memoir on Babylon, published in 1818, he gives a slight notice of the ruins of Nineveh. He speaks of the rectangular inclosure opposite Mosul as answering to the palace of Nineveh. Its sides correspond to the cardinal points of the compass, the western, one of the largest, facing the river. Its boundary, resembling a low embankment of rubbish, "has attached to it and its line, † at several places, mounds of greater size and solidity." The village of Nebbi Yunus, where they show Jonah's tomb, is built on the mound at the southwest angle. The largest mound situated near the centre of the western face, is supposed to be the monument of Ninus, and is called by the natives Koyunjik Tepe, the
* Major Rennet considers this building as "subsequent to Old Babylon, but before the time of Islam." *Fire-burnt, sun-dried bricks, bitumen, mortar and clay, were the materials used in the buildings of Babylon. † Mr. Rich has given four views of the Mujelibe, and four of Birs Nimroud. These views have been republished in Buckingham's Travels in Mesopotamia. Major Rennel considers the Mujelibe as the tower of Belus, an opinion ably controverted by Mr. Rich in his "Second Memoir on Babylon." [begin surface 149]village of Koyunjik being built at its northeast extremity. It has the shape of a truncated pyramid, and is 178 feet high, 1850 feet long on its summit from east to west, and 1847 from north to south. An immense block of stone, sculptured with the figures of men and animals, was found a "short time ago" in one of the mounds on the north face of it.
"So remarkable," says Mr. Rich, "was this fragment of antiquity, that even Turkish apathy was roused, and the Pasha and most of the principal people of Mosul came out to see it. One of the spectators particularly recollected among the sculptures on this stone * the figure of a man on horseback, with a long lance in his hand, followed by a great many others on foot. The stone was soon afterwards cut into small pieces for repairing the buildings of Mosul, and this inestimable specimen of the arts and manners of the earliest ages irrecoverably lost.' †
In the year 1820, Mr. Rich paid his fourth visit to Mosul. Having been obliged, for the benefit of his health, to visit Kurdistan, he returned to Baghdad by way of Mosul, and employed the few weeks he was able to spend in that city in examining the mounds on the opposite bank of the river. In passing through the area of Nineveh, on the 31st of October, he observed marks of a double wall, "the walls on the east having become quite a concretion of pebbles, like the natural hills," though large hewn stones are frequently dug out of them. The stormy weather having abated, he began his examination of the ruins on the 8th November, crossing the Tigris where it was about two fathom deep, and 400 feet wide. At the village of Nebbi Yunus, he found various pieces of gypsum, with inscriptions in the cuneiform or arrow-headed character, one of which, now in the British Museum, was covered with writing. Another appeared to be part of the wall of a passage "said to reach far into the mound." A third, apparently in its original position, is part of a wall plastered with mud. "I doubt not," says Mr. Rich, "but many other antiquities might be found in this mound, but the greater part of it is thickly covered with a labyrinth of small houses, and it is only on the repairing or falling down of these that such things are discovered."
After visiting the tomb of Jonah, consisting of several dark, narrow, and vaulted ancient passages, surmounted by a mosque, he examined the area of Nineveh, which, at a rough guess, he makes from one and a half to two miles broad, and four miles long, stretching a short way south of Nebbi Yunus. The mound of Koyunjik is 43 feet high, and 7691 in circuit. A fragment of pottery with cuneiform writing was discovered in his presence, and on the south side of the inclosure were found huge stones laid in layers of bitumen and lime mortar. There was also found at Nebbi Yunus a square stone slab, with an extremely perfect cuneiform inscription. After a careful survey of the locality, * Mr. Rich again came to the conclusion at which he had previously arrived, that the present inclosure formed only part of a great city, and was probably either the citadel or royal precincts, an opinion which is in harmony with the descriptions of Strabo and Diodorus Siculus. † Although Mr. Rich lived four months on the site of Nineveh, he made no attempt to excavate the mound, and hence all the antiquities which he did collect, including those from Babylon, would not occupy a cube of three feet.
Such was the meagre information which we possessed in 1844 of the site of Nineveh, and of the sculptures and arts of Assyria. Mr. Layard, indeed, had at an earlier period trodden this consecrated ground, and made some attempts to disinter its antiquities. After wandering through Asia Minor and Syria, in 1839 and 1840, he completed his pilgrimage by repairing to the remains of Nineveh and Babylon. On the 10th April 1840, he entered Mosul, and visited the extensive ruins on the left bank of the Tigris, including the great mounds of Koyunjik and Nebbi Yunus. He explored, in company with Mr. Ainsworth, the mound of Kalah Sherghat, a vast ruin on the Tigris, 50 miles below its junction with the Zab. On his way thither, and near the Arab village of Hammun Ali, he saw the vestiges of an ancient city. From an artificial eminence, he observed over a line of lofty mounds one of a pyramidical form rising high above the rest. "This was the pyramid which Xenophon had described, and near which the ten thousand had encamped;
* "A grey stone, the height of two men, dug from a spot above the surface of the ground."—Rich's Narrative, &c., vol. ii. p. 39. † In an Appendix to his Second Memoir, Mr. Rich has given a description illustrated with three large plates of antiquities and inscriptions from Babylon.—Pp. 47-58. * The results of this survey are given in a very accurate Plan of the Ruins of Nineveh. † We must refer our readers for a minute account of Mr. Rich's survey of Nineveh to his Narrative of a Residence in Koordistan, edited by his Widow, vol. ii. chap. xiii. xiv. See also Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, 1836, vol. vi. p. 361. VOL. XI. 8 [begin surface 150]the ruins around it were those which the Greek General saw twenty-two centuries before, and which were even then the remains of an ancient city." In the vast mass of shapeless ruins at Kalah Sherghat, he discovered a few fragments of pottery and inscribed bricks, but he sought in vain for figures carved in black stone, which, according to a tradition among the Arabs, existed among the ruins. Mr. Layard was particularly struck with the contrast between these ruins and those which he had left behind him in Asia Minor or Syria, and he has presented to us this contrast in the following beautiful passage:—
"The graceful column rising above the thick foliage of the myrtle, the ilex, and the oleander; the gradines of the amphitheatre covering the gentle slope, and overlooking the dark blue waters of a lake-like bay; the richly-carved cornice or capital half-hidden by the luxuriant herbage; are replaced by the stern shapeless mound rising like a hill from the scorched plain, the fragments of pottery, and the stupendous mass of brickwork occasionally laid bare by the winter rains. He has left the land where nature is still lovely, where, in his mind's eye, he can rebuild the temple or the theatre, half-doubting whether they would have made a more grateful impression upon the senses than the ruin before him. Those of whose works they are the remains, unlike the Roman and Greek, have left no visible traces of their civilisation, or of their arts: their influence has long since passed away. The more he conjectures, the more vague his results appear. The scene around is worthy of the ruin he is contemplating; desolation meets desolation: a feeling of awe succeeds to wonder; for there is nothing to relieve the mind, to lead to hope, or to tell of what has gone by. These huge mounds of Assyria made a deeper impression upon me, gave rise to more serious thought and more earnest reflection, than the temples of Balbec or the theatres of Ionia."—Vol. i. pp. 6, 7.
Mr. Layard again saw and examined the ruins of Nimroud, when descending the Tigris on a raft in the middle of April. Amid the flowers of every hue with which the spring rains had enamelled the mound and the adjacent meadows, he found "a few fragments of bricks, pottery, and alabaster, upon which might be traced the well-defined edges of the cuneiform character." From the base of the mound there stretched a long line of consecutive narrow mounds, which retained the appearance of walls or ramparts, and formed a vast quadrangle. A great dam here crosses the Tigris, which flows over it in a formidable cataract. It consists of huge stones squared and united by cramps of iron, and was intended to furnish water to the innumerable canals which are spread like network over the country. These dams, which greatly impeded the fleets of Alexander, were even in his time looked upon as the works of an ancient nation. The curiosity of Mr. Layard was highly excited by the contemplation of these ancient remains, and "from that time he formed the design of thoroughly examining, whenever it might be in his power, these singular ruins."
When Mr. Layard again visited Mosul, in the summer of 1842, on his way to Constantinople, he found that M. Botta, a nephew of the historian of Italy, had, since his former visit, been appointed French Consul in that city, and had commenced excavations in the great mound of Koyunjik. These excavations were very limited in extent, and had at that time yielded but a few fragments of brick and alabaster, containing a few letters in the cuneiform or arrow-headed character. M. Botta, however, was not discouraged. While continuing his excavations in the same mound, a peasant from the village of Khorsabad, about four or five hours distant from Mosul, happened to visit the spot, and advised the Consul to try the mound on which his own village, of 50 or 60 hovels, was built. M. Botta sent an agent, with one or two workmen, who, on sinking a well, came upon the top of a wall, which, upon digging deeper, they found to consist of sculptured slabs of gypsum. He hastened to the village, and upon cutting a wider trench in the direction of the wall, he found that he had opened a chamber connected with others, and formed of slabs of gypsum, covered with sculptured representations of battles, sieges, and similar events. At the end of six months, he had explored no fewer than six chambers or halls, some of which were very large, and seen 459 feet of bas-reliefs, between which were cut numerous inscriptions in the cuneiform character, proving that the building belonged to a period which preceded the conquest of Alexander. In this manner had M. Botta discovered an Assyrian building, the first, probably, as Mr. Layard remarks, which had been exposed to the view of man since the fall of the Assyrian Empire. As the edifice thus explored had been destroyed by fire, the slabs of gypsum, had reduced to lime by the intense heat, fell rapidly to pieces on exposure to the air. No precaution, says Mr. Layard, could arrest their rapid decay; and it was to be feared that this wonderful monument had only been uncovered to complete its ruin. The records of victories and triumphs which had long attested the power, and swelled the pride, of the Assyrian kings, and had resisted the ravages of ages, were now passing away
[begin surface 151]for ever. They could scarcely be held together until an inexperienced pencil should secure an imperfect evidence of their former existence. Almost all that was first discovered thus speedily disappeared, and the same fate has befallen nearly everything subsequently found at Khorsabad.
When M. Botta's means were exhausted, he transmitted copies of the sculptures and inscriptions to his friend M. Mohl, the celebrated oriental scholar, who laid them before the Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres in Paris. * This learned body took a deep interest in the subject, and induced the Minister of the Interior, M. Duchatel, to make a grant from the public funds to carry on the excavations at Khorsabad. M. Eugene Flandin, a skilful draftsman, whose talents and zeal had been displayed in his travels in Persia, was sent as an auxiliary to the Consul, and on his arrival at Mosul, a system of effectual research was instantly adopted. M. Botta purchased the whole village of Khorsabad for a certain number of piastres from the Chapter of Arbela, to whom it belonged. The Pasha, however, threw difficulties in the way; but in consequence of his death, and the delay in appointing his successor, the French antiquaries pursued their inquiries with ardour and success. Fifteen chambers, many of which were from 111 to 115 feet in length, were explored. The sculptures occupy tablets of marble from 6½ to 10 feet wide, covering the brick walls to the height of 10 feet. In some of the galleries these tablets form two belts, each 3½ feet high, containing figures 3 feet 3 inches in height. Cuneiform inscriptions occupy the space between these two belts. The relief of the figures is proportional to their size, which is occasionally such as to reach from the bottom to the top of the marble slab. These figures compose processions of kings, priests, nobles, and warriors, extending to the length of 1300 feet along the whole façades. Battle-pieces, festivals, captive cities, and the torture and execution of prisoners, are all represented with admirable skill and spirit, and in the highest style of art. The principal gates of entrance are surmounted by gigantic winged bulls, with human heads, crowned with a huge tiara, small lions having been chained at the feet of the bulls. M. Flandin has noticed it as remarkable, that the lion is never represented at liberty, but always in chains; and it deserves also to be remarked, that there are no inscriptions at Khorsabad on the external façades of the buildings. He, therefore, with much probability, refers these sculptures, and the palace which they adorn, to the second and last dynasty of the Assyrian kings, whose names occur in the sacred writings. Mr. Layard was among the first persons who were made acquainted with these researches of M. Botta, who liberally allowed him to see his letters and drawings as they passed through Constantinople; and during the whole period of his excavations, he not only sent Mr. Layard his descriptions, but copies of the inscriptions, without exacting any promise as to the use he might make of them. M. Botta's excavations were completed early in 1845; and having secured many excellent specimens of Assyrian sculpture, he returned to Europe with a rich collection of inscriptions, now lodged in Paris.
Mr. Layard was among the first to form an opinion of the age and origin of the remarkable palace discovered by M. Botta; and in three letters, published in the Malta Times, he stated the general grounds upon which he founded his views. Thus informed on the subject, and impressed with the importance of pursuing these researches, Mr. Layard was anxious to devote himself to the task. If Khorsabad did not represent ancient Nineveh, and if the edifice discovered there had been one of its palaces, other buildings, more vast and magnificent, must exist nearer the seat of government, on the banks of the Tigris. Occupied with this conviction, Mr. Layard's thoughts reverted to the ruins at Nimroud, and the traditions with which they were associated. In the autumn of 1845, Sir Stratford Canning had mentioned to him his willingness to bear for a limited time the expenses of excavations in Assyria, and it is to this generous and noble action of our ambassador that we owe that noble collection of Assyrian antiquities which Mr. Layard has succeeded in transmitting to the British Museum.
Furnished with letters of introduction to the authorities at Mosul, Mr. Layard left Constantinople in the middle of October 1845, "crossed the Mountains of Pontus, and the great Steppes of the Usun Yilak, as fast as post-horses could carry him, descended the high lands into the valley of the Tigris, galloped over the vast plains of Assyria, and reached Mosul in twelve days." Having paid his respects to the Governor, Mohammed Pasha, and secretly procured
* M. Botta was at the first vacancy nominated a corresponding member of the Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres. His letters were read at the sittings of April, June, July, August, September, and October 1843, and January 1844. See Mémoires de l'Institut Royale de France. Acad. des Inscript. et Belles Lettres, 1845. Tom. xiv. pp. 27, 28. [begin surface 152]a few tools, and engaged a mason, he left Mosul on the 8th November, and accompanied by Mr. Ross, a British merchant in Mosul, his own Cawass, and a servant, he descended the Tigris to Nimroud in five hours, and at sunset reached the Arab village of Naifa. Awad, a Sheikh of the Jehesh, in whose house he lodged, entered his service, and speedily engaged six Arabs to assist in the excavations. In the principal mound, only twenty minutes' walk from the village, about 1800 feet long, 900 broad, and 65 high, supposed to be the pyramid of Xenophon, they found fragments with cuneiform inscriptions, and in the course of the morning ten large slabs forming a square were uncovered, forming the top of a chamber, with an entrance at the north-west corner, where a slab was wanting. Cuneiform inscriptions occupied the centre of all the slabs, which were in the highest preservation. Digging into the side of the mound, the workmen came immediately to a wall having similar inscriptions, but the slabs had been exposed to intense heat, and were so cracked and reduced to lime, that they threatened to fall to pieces. The labours of this first day's work were highly encouraging, and strengthened with five Turcomans, who had been attracted by the prospect of regular wages, the party began the work of the second day. Inscribed slabs, ivory ornaments, with traces of gilding, among which was a male figure in long robes, walls branching out at different angles, and a great accumulation of charcoal, proving the destruction of one of the buildings by fire, were the amount of this day's labour. During the continuance of the excavations for other three days, several inscriptions were uncovered, but no sculptures. Scattered fragments of gold-leaf had induced the workmen to believe that Mr. Layard was in search of gold, and even his head-workman, Awad, had arrived at the same conclusion. "O Bey," said he, "here is the gold sure enough, and, please God, we shall find it all in a few days. Only don't say anything about it to these Arabs, for they are asses, and cannot hold their tongues. The matter will come to the ears of the Pasha." The Sheikh was at once disappointed and surprised when Mr. Layard presented him with the golden treasure he had collected, and assured him that he might retain " all such as he might hereafter discover."
As the experiment of excavation had been successfully tried, Mr. Layard galloped to Mosul in order to acquaint the Pasha, Keritli Oglu, (the son of the Cretan), with the nature and object of his researches. This extortioner by law had one eye and one ear, was short and fat, deeply indented with the small-pox, uncouth in gestures, and harsh in voice. He revived old and forgotten impositions, and he "particularly insisted on dish pararsi, (tooth-money)—a compensation levied upon all villages in which a man of such rank is entertained, for the wear and tear of his teeth in masticating the food he condescends to receive from the inhabitants." The population were in a state of terror and despair, and hopes were expressed and reports whispered, that the tyrant was to be deposed. These murmurs had reached his ears, and he fell upon a plan to test the feeling of the people.
"He was suddenly taken ill one afternoon, and was carried to his harem almost lifeless. On the following morning the palace was closed, and the attendants answered inquiries by mysterious motions, which could only be interpreted in one fashion. The doubts of the Mosuleans gradually gave way to general rejoicings; but at midday his Excellency, who had posted his spies all over the town, appeared in perfect health in the market-place. His vengeance fell principally upon those who possessed property, and had hitherto escaped his rapacity. They were seized and stripped on the plea that they had spread reports detrimental to his authority."—Vol. i. p. 20.
It was to such a man that Mr. Layard had now to appeal. The report of hidden treasure had induced the fanatical Cadi and some of the principal inhabitants to endeavour to raise a riot, which was to end in the demolition of the British Consulate, and other acts of violence. Under these circumstances, Mr. Layard waited on the Pasha, and congratulated him on his speedy recovery—a compliment which he received with a grim smile of satisfaction. The Pasha then introduced the subject of the Cadi:—" 'Does that ill-conditioned fellow,' said he, 'think that he has Sheriff Pasha (his immediate predecessor) to deal with, that he must be planning a riot in the town? When I was at Siwas, the Ulema tried to excite the people because I encroached on a burying-ground. But I made them eat dirt! Wallah! I took every grave-stone and built up the castle walls with them.' He pretended at first to be ignorant of the excavations at Nimroud; but subsequently thinking that he would convict me of prevarication in my answers to his questions as to the amount of treasure discovered, pulled out of his writing-tray a scrap of paper as dingy as that produced by Awad, in which was also preserved an almost invisible particle of gold-leaf. These, he said, had been brought to him by the commander of the irregular
[begin surface 153]troops stationed at Selamiyah, who had been watching my proceedings. I suggested that he should name an agent to be present as long as I worked at Nimroud, to take charge of all the precious metals that might be discovered."
No objection having been made to the continuance of the excavations, Mr. Layard rode daily from his new residence at Selamiyah, a distance of three miles, to superintend the work. Two fine bas-relief sculptures were now discovered, one representing war-chariots, with warriors, and richly caparisoned horses; and another, the siege of a castle or walled city, with warriors, some on the turrets discharging arrows and stones, and others ascending a ladder placed against the walls. While meditating upon this interesting discovery, Daoud Agha, the commander of the irregulars, brought orders from Mosul to stop the excavations, by threatening the workmen. Mr. Layard rode off early next morning to Mosul to expostulate with the Pasha, who, pretending surprise, disclaimed having given any orders, and directed his secretary to write an order to the commander of the irregulars to assist rather than obstruct him. Mr. Layard requested this letter to be sent to him before he left Mosul; but the Pasha, on the ground that he was unwilling to detain him, promised to forward it in the evening. On his arrival at Selamiyah, Mr. Layard informed Daoud Agha of the success of his visit; but the commander returned to him at midnight with the news, that a horseman had just brought him the most stringent orders, that on no account was he to permit the excavations to be continued. Confounded with this intelligence, Mr. Layard visited the Pasha next day, and received the following explanation of his conduct:—
" 'It was with deep regret,' said the Pasha, 'I learned after your departure yesterday, that the mound in which you are digging had been used as a burying-ground by the Mussulmans, and was covered with their graves. Now you are aware that, by the law, it is forbidden to disturb a tomb; and the Cadi and Mufti have already made representations to me on the subject.' 'In the first place,' replied I, 'I can state that no graves have been disturbed; in the second, after the wise and firm politico which your Excellency exhibited at Siwas, grave-stones would present no difficulty.' * * * 'No,' added he, 'I cannot allow you to proceed; you are my dearest and most intimate friend: if anything happens to you, what grief should I not suffer! Your life is more valuable than old stones; besides, the responsibility would fall on my head.' "—Vol. i. p. 44.
Mr. Layard pretended to acquiesce in this decision, and requested that a Cawass of his own might be sent with him to Nimroud, in order to have the sculptures already uncovered drawn, and the inscriptions copied. The Pasha's Cawass was readily induced to countenance the employment of a few workmen to guard the sculptures during the day. With regard to the graves that had been disturbed, Daoud Agha confessed that he had been ordered to make graves on the mound, and that his troops had for two nights been bringing stones from distant villages for that purpose. "We have destroyed," said he, "more real tombs of the true believers in making sham ones, than you could have defiled between the Zab and Selamiyah. We have killed our horses and ourselves in carrying these accursed stones." Continuing to employ a few men to open trenches by way of experiment, several gigantic figures, uninjured by fire, were discovered, a crouching lion rudely carved in basalt, and a pair of gigantic winged bulls, without the head and half the wings. On the back of these slabs, 14 feet long, on which these animals had been carved in high relief, were inscriptions in large and well cut characters. A pair of winged lions without the heads, admirably designed and carefully executed, were also discovered, and a human figure nine feet high. These sculptures were left in situ, the upper part only having been examined.
Having now no doubt of the existence of vast edifices in the interior of the mound of Nimroud, Mr. Layard urged on Sir Stratford Canning the necessity of a firman order from the Porte, to prevent his proceedings from being interfered with. He covered over the sculptures, and withdrew from Nimroud, leaving an agent at Selamiyah. On entering Mosul on the 18th December, he found the population rejoicing at the dismissal of Keritli Oglu, and the appointment of Ishmael Pasha as his successor. Owing to the state of the weather, the continuance of the excavations was impossible, and Mr. Layard proceeded to Baghdad, which he reached on the 24th December, in order to consult Major Rawlinson, and make arrangements for the removal of the sculptures at a future period. On his return to Mosul early in January, the new Pasha gave him every assistance and protection. His agent at Nimroud had not been idle. The counterfeit graves had been removed, and also others which possessed more claim to respect. Mr. Layard satisfied the Arabs, that as the bodies were not turned towards Mecca, they could not be those of true believers.
The Cadi of Mosul again contrived to interrupt the excavation. He alleged that Mr. Layard was carrying off treasure, and trying
[begin surface 154]to prove by the inscriptions that the Franks once held the country. The Mufti took up the same ground, and complained to the Pasha, who requested him to suspend his operations for a short time. Still, however, he made fresh experiments with only a few men to avoid notice. He discovered two human figures about the natural size, in bas-relief, and with the freshness of a recent work. All their parts were entire. The figures were back to back with wings, and an inscription ran across the sculptures. He now recognised at once whence many of the sculptures of the S. W. buildings had been brought, and it was evident, he thought, that he had at length discovered the earliest palace in Nimroud. In the N. W. palace he discovered an eagle-headed figure, of a very singular form, furnished with wings, and clothed in long robes. On all these figures paint could be distinctly seen, particularly on the hair, beard, eyes, and sandals, and the slabs were such that they could be easily packed and transported.
When Mr. Layard was returning to the mound on the morning after these discoveries, he saw two Arabs on their mares approaching him at the top of their speed. "Hasten, O Bey," they exclaimed, " Hasten to the diggers, for they have found Nimroud himself!"
"On reaching the ruins," says Mr. Layard, " I descended and found the workmen, who had already seen me as I approached, standing near a heap of baskets and cloaks. Whilst Awad advanced and asked for a present to celebrate the occasion, the Arabs withdrew the screen they had so hastily constructed, and disclosed an enormous human head sculptured in full out of the alabaster of the country. They had uncovered the upper part of a figure, the remainder of which was still buried in the earth. I saw at once that the head must have belonged to a winged lion or bull, similar to those of Khorsabad or Persepolis. It was in admirable preservation. The expression was calm yet majestic, and the outline of the features showed a freedom and knowledge of art scarcely to be looked for in the works of so remote a period. The cap had three horns, and, unlike that of the human-headed bulls hitherto found in Assyria, was rounded and without ornament at the top.
"I was not surprised that the Arabs had been amazed and terrified at this apparition. It required no stretch of imagination to conjure up the most strange fancies. This gigantic head, blanched with age, thus rising from the bowels of the earth, might well have belonged to one of those fearful beings which are pictured in the traditions of the country, as appearing to mortals, slowly ascending from the regions below. One of the workmen, on catching the first glimpse of the monster, had thrown down his basket and run off to Mosul as fast as his legs could carry him. I learned this with regret, as I anticipated the consequences.
"Whilst I was superintending the removal of the earth which still clung to the sculpture, and giving directions for the continuation of the work, a noise of horsemen was heard, and presently Abd-ur-rahman, * followed by half his tribe, appeared on the edge of the trench. As soon as the two Arabs had reached the tents, and published the wonders they had seen, every one mounted his mare and rode to the mound, to satisfy himself of the truth of these inconceivable reports. When they beheld the head they all cried together, 'There is no God but God, and Mahommed is his prophet!' It was some time before the sheikh could be prevailed upon to descend into the pit, and convince himself that the image he saw was of stone. 'This is not the work of men's hands,' exclaimed he, 'but of those infidel giants of whom the Prophet, peace be with him! has said, that they were higher than the tallest date tree; this is one of the idols which Noah, peace be with him! cursed before the flood.' In this opinion, the result of a careful examination, all the bystanders concurred.
"I now ordered a trench to be dug due south from the head, in the expectation of finding a corresponding figure, and before nightfall reached the object of my search, about twelve feet deep."—Vol. i. pp. 65-67.
Having engaged two or three men to sleep near the sculptures, Mr. Layard celebrated the day's discovery by a slaughter of sheep, and by a dance, which was kept up during the greater part of the night. Mosul was thrown into commotion by the news. Nimroud was declared by the terrified Arabs to have appeared, and the Cadi, the Mufti, and the Ulema, complained to the Pasha that these excavations were contrary to the Koran. The Pasha requested the excavations to be discontinued till the sensation in the town had subsided. Two men, however, were allowed to dig leisurely, and before the end of March two additional and magnificent specimens of Assyrian art, in perfect preservation, were secured, namely, a second pair of winged human-headed lions, about twelve feet in length and height. Cuneiform inscriptions, in which not a character was wanting, covered all the parts of the slab that were not occupied by the figure.
"I used to contemplate," says Mr. Layard, "for hours these mysterious emblems, and muse over their intent and history. What more noble forms could have ushered the people into the temple of their Gods? What more sublime, images could have been borrowed from nature by men, who sought, unaided by the light of revealed
*The Sheikh of the Abou Salman Arabs, whom Mr. Layard had propitiated by a friendly visit and presents. [begin surface 155]religion, to embody their conception of the wisdom, power, and ubiquity of a supreme being? They could find no better type of intellect and knowledge than the head of the man; of strength, than the body of the lion; of rapidity of motion, than the wing of the bird. These winged human-headed lions were not idle creations, the offspring of mere fancy; their meaning was written upon them. They had awed and instructed races which flourished 3000 years ago. Through the portals which they guarded, kings, priests, and warriors had borne sacrifices to their altars long before the wisdom of the East had penetrated to Greece, and had furnished its mythology with symbols long recognised by the Assyrian votaries. They may have been buried, and their existence may have been unknown before the foundation of the Eternal City. For twenty-five centuries they had been hidden from the eye of man, and they now stood forth once more in their ancient majesty. But how changed was the scene around them! The luxury and civilisation of a mighty nation had given place to the wretchedness and ignorance of a few half-barbarous tribes. The wealth of temples, and the riches of great cities, had been succeeded by ruins and shapeless heaps of earth. Above the spacious hall in which they stood the plough had passed and the corn now waved. Egypt has monuments no less ancient and no less wonderful, but they have stood forth for ages to testify her early power and renown, whilst those before me had but now appeared to bear witness, in the words of the Prophet, that once 'the Assyrian was a Cedar in Lebanon, with fair branches and with a shadowing shroud of high stature; and his top was among the thick boughs * * * his height was exalted above all the trees of the field, and his boughs were multiplied, and his branches became long, because of the multitude of waters when he shot forth. All the fowls of heaven made their nests in his boughs, and under his branches did all the beasts of the field bring forth their young, and under his shadow dwelt all great nations;' for now is 'Nineveh a desolation and dry like a wilderness, and flocks lie down in the midst of her: All the beasts of the nations, both the cormorant and bittern, lodge in the upper lintels of it; their voice sings in the windows; and desolation is in the thresholds.' " * —Vol. i. pp. 69-71.
After paying a visit to the celebrated ruins of Al Hather, which have been described by Dr. Ross † and Mr. Ainsworth, ‡ Mr. Layard returned to Mosul to resume his operations. As several of the principal Christian families were anxious to see the sculptures, Mr. Layard wished to gratify their curiosity by giving them a ball and supper before the summer heat had commenced. The French and English consuls, and their ladies, joined the party, and a general invitation was given to all the Arabs of the district, men and women. The Pasha lent his white pavilions, which were pitched near the river, on a broad lawn, carpeted with flowers, for the accommodation of the ladies and the reception of the Sheikhs; and black tents were provided for some of the guests, and the attendants of the kitchen. In the centre of the group of tents an open space was left for dancing and other exhibitions. The Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman arrived early, magnificently dressed, on his tall white mare, and surrounded by horsemen, carrying spears tipt with tufts of ostrich feathers. A Kurdish band of music accompanied Mr. Layard to meet the Sheikh, whose attendants urged their mares to the top of their speed, engaging in mimic war, and filling the air with their wild war-cry, which was almost drowned by the Kurds, who belaboured their drums and blew their pipes with redoubled energy. The other Sheikhs, with their women and children, came on foot. The wife and daughters of Abd-ur-rahman, mounted on mares, and surrounded by their slaves and hand-maidens, next appeared. When they had dismounted at the entrance of the ladies' tents, they were entertained with sweetmeats, parched peas, and lettuces, while the assembled crowd, male and female, enjoyed the more solid fare of fourteen sheep that were roasted and boiled for the occasion. The dinner was succeeded by dancing, and Mr. Rassam persuaded some of the women to join the debké, the dance of the Arabs, compounded of shuffling steps, twisting attitudes, and stamping, yelling, and jumping. Sword-dances, by warriors of different tribes, were performed; but as the excitement increased with the music, the bystanders were obliged to replace the swords of the performers with stout staves, with which they belaboured one another unmercifully, each successful hit being applauded by the male war-cry and the female tahlehl of the tribe to which the one who dealt it belonged. This féte, which was kept up by moonlight till an early hour, was returned by Abd-ur-rahman, who entertained the Franks next day with debkés and sword-dances. The Sheikh insisted upon Mr. Layard joining with him in leading off a dance, in which they were accompanied by some five hundred warriors and Arab women.
Fortunately for Mr. Layard, a new Governor, Tahyar Pasha, courteous to Europeans, and well-informed in literature and history, came to Mosul; but his means being very limited, he was not able to carry on the excavations as he wished. A small but effective body of workmen, however, continued to excavate, and the result of
* Ezekiel xxxi. 3, and Zephaniah ii. 13,14. † Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, 1839, vol. ix. p. 443. ‡Travels. [begin surface 156]their labour was the winged human-headed bull, whose head had been previously found, sixteen copper lions, varying from a foot to an inch in size, and three interesting slabs, now in England, exhibiting the front of the lion and the bull, which, from "the art displayed in the treatment and composition, the correct and effective delineation of the man and animal, the spirit of the grouping, and its extraordinary preservation, is probably the finest specimen of Assyrian art in existence."
At this time, a vizirial letter arrived, procured by Sir Stratford Canning, authorizing the excavations and the removal of the sculptures. Mr. Layard received it when on a gazelle-hunting excursion with Abd-ur-rahman, and he "read by the light of a small camel-dung fire the document which secured to the British nation the records of Nineveh, and a collection of the earliest monuments of Assyrian art." Pecuniary resources, however, were still wanting for extensive excavations; but the zeal of Mr. Layard compensated the parsimony of England. He now opened trenches in the great mound of Koyunjik, which travellers had supposed to mark the true site of Nineveh. The French consul claimed the ruins as French property; but as the claim was not recognised, he and Mr. Layard excavated in different directions for about a month, without much success. The sculptures and inscriptions, however, enabled Mr. Layard to assert with some confidence, that the building to which they belonged was contemporary with that of Khorsabad, and of a more recent epoch than the most ancient palace of Nimroud. After inspecting and covering up for future examination a number of sculptured slabs discovered at Nimroud, Mr. Layard employed himself in packing and transporting to Bombay, by the way of Bagdad, such sculptures as could be moved with the means at his disposal. Steam-vessels having failed in their attempt to ascend the Tigris, Mr. Layard was obliged to float them down to Bagdad on rafts formed of inflated skins and beams of poplar wood. During the operation of packing and transporting the sculptures to the river, which was done by buffalo carts, belonging to the Pasha, the Pasha himself, accompanied by a large body of regular and irregular troops with three guns, paid a visit to Mr. Layard, who entertained this large company for two days, the Pasha's tents being pitched on an island in the Tigris. His Excellency was as much astonished at the sculptures as the Arabs, and the gigantic human-headed lion terrified as well as amazed his Osmanli followers.
Mr. Layard's health compelled him to renounce for awhile his labours at Nimroud, and as he required a cooler climate, he determined to visit the Tiyari mountains, inhabited by the Chaldæan or Nestorian Christians, and to return in September to resume his labours under a cooler sky. After visiting the French excavations at Khorsabad, on his way to the mountains, he passed through the town of Amadiyah, the limit of the authority of the Pasha of Mosul, and reached the village of Asheetha, where he was hospitably received by Yakoub the Rais or chief, and rapturously welcomed by the Chaldæans whom he had employed at Nimroud. This, and all the other villages of the Chaldæan Christians, with the exception of Zaweetha, had been destroyed in 1843 by the ruthless Beder Khan Bey, who massacred in cold blood nearly 10,000 of the inhabitants, and carried off as slaves large numbers of girls and children. * Yakoub, who had witnessed all the scenes of bloodshed in the Tiyari, having been continually with Beder Khan Bey as a hostage, pointed out to Mr. Layard the places where they were perpetrated. When at Lizan on the Zab, without an inhabitable house, the travellers were obliged to spread their carpets amongst the tombs in the graveyard of a roofless church, slowly rising from its ruins, and "the first edifice in the village to be rebuilt." Mr. Layard was induced to visit the scene of one of the most terrible incidents of the massacre, to which he was conducted by an active mountaineer, and he has given us the following account of it:—
"Emerging from the gardens, we found ourselves at the foot of an almost perpendicular detritus of loose stones, terminated about one thousand feet above us by a wall of lofty rocks. Up this ascent we toiled for above an hour, sometimes clinging to small shrubs, at others crawling on our hands and knees; crossing the gullies to secure a footing, or carried down by the stones which we put in motion. We soon saw evidences
* Through the noble exertions of Sir Stratford Canning, the greater number of these captives were released. He advanced even a considerable sum for their liberation. Mr. Rassam likewise obtained the release of many slaves, and maintained at his own expense, and for several months, not only the Nestorian patriarch, but many hundreds of the Chaldæans who had escaped from the massacre. Dr. Grant, the American missionary, who endeavoured to prove that the Chaldæans were the lost ten tribes of Israel—(see The Nestorians, by Asahel Grant, M.D. London, 1841)—fell a victim to his humane zeal for the fugitives. His house in Mosul was filled with them. He clothed and fed them; and he died of typhus fever, caught during his attendance upon those who, from their sufferings and want of food, had brought that disease to Mosul. [begin surface 157]of the slaughter. At first, a solitary skull rolling down with the rubbish; then, heaps of blanched bones; further up, fragments of rotten garments. As we advanced, these remains became more frequent; skeletons almost entire still hung to the dwarf shrubs. I was soon compelled to renounce an attempt to count them. As we approached the wall of rock, the declivity became covered with bones, mingled with the long plaited tresses of the women, shreds of discoloured linen, and well-worn shoes. There were skulls of all ages, from the child unborn to the toothless old man. We could not avoid treading on the bones as we advanced, and rolling them with the loose stones into the valley below. 'This is nothing,' exclaimed my guide, who observed me gazing with wonder on these miserable heaps; 'they are but the remains of those that were thrown from above, or sought to escape the sword by jumping from the rock. Follow me.' He sprung upon a ledge running along the precipice that rose before us, and clambered along the face of the mountain overhanging the Zab, now scarcely visible at our feet. I followed him as well as I was able, to some distance; but when the ledge became scarcely broader than my hand, and frequently disappeared for three or four feet altogether, I could no longer advance. The Tiyari, who had easily surmounted these difficulties, returned to assist me, but in vain. I was compelled to return, after catching a glimpse of an open recess or platform covered with human remains.
"When the fugitives who had escaped from Asheetha spread the news of the massacre through the valley of Lizan, the inhabitants of the villages around collected such part of their property as they could carry, and took refuge on the platform I have just described, and on the rock above, hoping thus to escape the notice of the Kurds, or to be able to defend against any numbers a place almost inaccessible. Women and young children as well as men concealed themselves in a spot which the mountain goat could scarcely reach. Beder Khan Bey was not long in discovering their retreat, but being unable to force it, he surrounded the place with his men, and waited till they should be compelled to yield. The weather was hot and sultry; the Christians had brought but small supplies of water and provisions; after three days the first began to fail them, and they offered to capitulate. The terms proposed by Beder Khan Bey, and ratified by an oath on the Koran, were the surrender of their arms and property. The Kurds were then admitted to the platform. After they had taken the arms from their prisoners they commenced an indiscriminate slaughter, until weary of using their weapons, they hurled the few survivors from the rocks to the Zab below. Out of nearly 1000 souls who are said to have congregated here, only one escaped."—Vol. i. pp. 188-191.
On his way to Tkoma, Mr. Layard visited Raola, where the chief subject of conversation was the threatened invasion of Tkoma by Beder Khan Bey. At the village of Birijai he visited the church, in which he saw among the MSS. many ancient rituals, forms of prayer, and versions of the Scriptures; the Acts of the Apostles and the Epistles on vellum; and a fine copy of the Gospels, Acts, and Epistles also on vellum, entire, with numerous illuminations, written in the year of the Seleucidæ 1552, an era which commenced in October 312 before Christ. On Sunday morning Mr. Layard was roused at dawn to attend church. The ceremonies were short and simple. Two priests officiated in white surplices: a portion of Scripture was read and explained by the principal priest in the dialect of the mountains, as the Chaldæan of the books is understood by few. The prayers were chaunted by his companion, the congregation kneeling or standing, and joining in the responses. The people used the sign of the cross when entering, and bowed at the name of Christ. The sacrament was administered to all present—men, women, and children partaking of the bread and wine. Mr. Layard's companion received it also, and they seemed to feel hurt at his declining to take it, until he stated that he did not refuse from any religious prejudice. The congregation then embraced each other at the close of the service. "I could not but contrast," says Mr. Layard, "these simple and primitive rites, with the senseless mummery and degrading forms adopted by the converted Chaldæans of the plains—the unadorned and imageless walls with the hideous pictures and monstrous deformities which encumber the churches of Mosul."
One of the Meleks of the tribe came to Birijai to welcome Mr. Layard to Tkoma Gowaia, the principal village of the district, containing 160 houses. When they reached the church they found the whole tribe assembled there in consultation on the defence of their village against the threatened invasion of the Kurds. A deputation was sent off to the Pasha of Mosul to implore his protection and aid. At the deserted and ruined village of Chonba, in the valley of the Zab, Mr. Layard's party could not find a roof under which they could pass the night, and they were obliged to spread their carpets under a cluster of walnut trees, on the very same spot where Beder Khan Bey had pitched his tent after the great massacre, and where he received Melek Ismail, the chief of the Tiyari, when he was delivered a prisoner into his hands. Yakoub, who was present at the surrender of this Christian hero, thus described the event:—
"After performing prodigies of valour, and heading his people in their defence of the pass which led into the upper districts, Melek Ismail, his thigh broken by a musket-ball, was carried by a few followers to a cavern in a secluded ravine, where he might have escaped the search
[begin surface 158]of his enemies, had not a woman, to save her life, betrayed his retreat. He was dragged down the mountain with savage exultation, and brought before Beder Khan Bey. Here he fell upon the ground. 'Wherefore does the infidel sit before me?' exclaimed the ferocious chief, who had seen his broken limb, 'and what dog is this that has dared to shed the blood of true believers?' 'O Mir,' replied Melek Ismail, still undaunted, and partly raising himself, 'this arm has taken the lives of nearly twenty Kurds, and had God spared me, as many more would have fallen by it.' Beder Khan Bey rose and walked to the Zab, making a sign to his attendants that they should bring the Melek to him. By his direction they held the Christian chief over the river, and, severing his head from his body with a dagger, cast them into the stream. All the family of the Melek had distinguished themselves at the time of the invasion by their courage. His sister, standing by his side, slew four men before she fell mortally wounded."—Vol. i. pp. 219, 220.
On his return to Mosul, Mr. Layard visited the Rock Sculptures at Malthayiah. The sculptures are Assyrian, contemporary with the Kings of Khorsabad and Koyunjik. They consist of four tablets of bas-relief cut in the rock, and on each tablet are nine figures in the act of adoring three divinities. He visited also Alkosh, a considerable Roman Catholic valley, containing the tomb of the prophet Nahum the Alkoshite.
Although Tahyar Pasha, the governor of Mosul, had attempted to avert the calamity, yet a few days after Mr. Layard had reached Mosul, Beder Khan Bey marched his ferocious Kurds against Tkoma, massacring in cold blood men, women, and children. Three hundred women and children flying into Baz were killed in the pass; and nearly half the population fell victims to the fanaticism of the Mohammedan murderer. The Porte was roused to a sense of its duty by these atrocious deeds. Osman Pasha was sent against the rebellious Kurd, who, after suffering two signal defeats, took refuge in a mountain fortress, and obtained too favourable terms of capitulation. He was brought to Constantinople, and subsequently sent to the island of Candia;—a very inadequate punishment for rebellion and murder.
Mr. Layard has devoted an interesting chapter to an account of the origin, history, and doctrines of the Chaldæan or Nestorian Christians. This primitive sect of the Christian Church has for nearly seventeen centuries maintained the purity of their faith, and the simplicity of their worship, uncontaminated by the superstitions of the Church of Rome; and it is not easy to assign a reason why so little sympathy has been extended to them by the Protestant Churches of Europe. They deny the doctrine of purgatory; they refuse to the Virgin the titles and exaggerated veneration given her by the Romish and Eastern Churches. They deny the supremacy of the Pope; the absolute celibacy of the whole clergy; and the doctrine of transubstantiation. They neither worship images nor exhibit them; and they admit the Nicene Creed to its fullest extent. They observe the Sabbath strictly, and give the bread and wine of the Sacrament to persons of all ages.
"The Protestants of America," says Mr. Layard, "have for some time past taken a deep interest in the Chaldeans. Their missionaries have opened schools in and around Oroomiah. A printing press has been established, and several works, including the Scriptures, have already been issued in the vernacular language of the people, and printed in a character peculiar to them. Their labours have, I believe, been successful. Although members of the Independent Church, they profess to avoid any interference with the Ecclesiastical system of the Chaldeans; admitting, I am informed, that Episcopacy is the form of Church government best suited to a sect circumstanced as the Chaldeans are.
"It is to be hoped that the establishment of the authority of the Sultan in the Mountains, and the removal of several of the most fanatical and bloodthirsty of the Kurdish chiefs, will enable the Chaldeans to profess their faith without hinderance or restraint; and that freed from all fears of fresh aggression, they may, by their activity and industry, restore fresh prosperity to their mountain districts. As the only remnant of a great nation, every one must feel an interest in their history and condition, and our sympathies cannot but be excited in favour of a long persecuted people, who have merited the title of 'the Protestants of Asia.'"—Vol. i. pp. 267, 268.
A few days after Mr. Layard returned to Mosul, he and Mr. Rassam, the British Vice-Consul, received an invitation to the great periodical feast of the Yezidis, or " Worshippers of the Devil;" a designation which they have acquired either from their respect or their terror for the evil principle. Keritli Oglu, the late Pasha, had seized by treachery, as he supposed, their head or High Priest, Sheikh Nasr, but the Sheikh had artfully substituted in his place the second in authority, who was carried prisoner to Mosul. The substitute having borne with resignation the torture and imprisonment intended for Sheikh Nasr, was released by Mr. Rassam, on the advance of a considerable sum of money, which the Yezidis faithfully repaid out of the produce of their fields. Mr. Rassam was unable to avail himself of the invitation, but Mr. Layard, anxious to clear up the mystery which hung over their worship and tenets, repaired with the dragoman of the Vice-Consulate, Hodja
[begin surface 159]Toma, to Baadri, the residence of Hussein Bey, the political chief of the Yezidis. Baadri is situated at the foot of the range of hills about five miles to the north of Ain Sifni. He was met near the village by Hussein Bey, a handsome and richly dressed youth, about 18 years of age, and by the priests and principal inhabitants on foot. Having breakfasted in Hussein's Salamlik, or reception-room, he was left during the heat of the day to his siesta. In the afternoon, he was awakened by the shrill cry of the women, which generally announces same happy event. The Sheikh himself entered soon afterwards, and announced the birth of an heir. "The child is yours," he said. "He is our first-born, and he will grow up under your shadow. Let him receive his name from you, and be hereafter under your protection." Mr. Layard was at first perplexed by the request that he should "stand godfather to a devil-worshipper's baby;" but with the sagacity which distinguishes him, he suggested, in a neat Oriental speech, the name of the child's grandfather Ali Bey, and accompanied it with a few gold coins to be sewed to the cap of the infant. Presents from the mother, and an invitation to the Harem, to see the females of the family, indicated the gratitude of all parties. The festival took place next day; and men and women purified themselves by oblations, before repairing to the tomb of their saint Sheikh Adi. The tomb stands in a narrow valley, with only one outlet. It is surrounded with buildings, inhabited by certain members of the priesthood and their families, who are chosen to watch over the sacred precincts; and low buildings are erected for the accommodation of pilgrims and pedlars during the festivities. Gigantic trees throw their shade over the open space, and streams of fresh water are conducted round the buildings.
The assembly having sat till nearly midday at the door of the tomb, the High Priest rose, and was followed by Mr. Layard into the outer court filled with pilgrims. The stores of travelling merchants were spread on the ground. Many coloured handkerchiefs and cotton stuffs hung from the trees. Dried fruits in heaps loaded the pavement, attracting the notice of groups of children. The High Priest was respectfully saluted as he passed, and he and Hussein Bey and Mr. Layard placed themselves on the slab surrounding a fountain by the road side, listening to the music of pipes and tambourines, mixed with the hum of human voices, sounding through the valley.
"I never beheld," says Mr. Layard, "a more picturesque or animated scene. Long lines of pilgrims toiled up the avenue. There was the swarthy inhabitant of the Sinjar, with his long black locks, his piercing eye, and regular features—his white robes floating in the wind, and his unwieldy matchlock thrown over his shoulder. Then followed the more wealthy families of the Kochers—the wandering tribes who live in tents in the plains, and among the hills of ancient Adiabene; the men in gay jackets and variegated turbans, with fantastic arms in their girdles; the women richly clad in silk antaris; their hair braided in many tresses, falling down their backs, and adorned with wild flowers; their foreheads almost concealed by gold and silver coins, and engraved stones hanging round their necks. Next would appear a poverty-stricken family from a village of the Mosul district; the women clad in white, pale and care-worn, bending under the weight of their children; the men urging on the heavily laden donkey. Similar groups descended from the hills. Repeated discharges of fire-arms announced to those below the arrival of every new party.
"All turned to the fountains before proceeding to their allotted station, and laying their arms on the ground kissed the hands of Sheikh Nasr, Hussein Bey, and myself. After saluting the assembled priests, they continued their way up the sides of the mountains, and chose some wide-spreading-oak or the roof of a building, for a resting place during their sojourn in the valley. They then spread their carpets, and lighting fires with dry branches and twigs, busied themselves in preparing their food. There was scarcely a tree without its colony."—Vol. i. pp. 284-286.
Dancing and music, vocal and instrumental, followed the salutation of the priests. Anxious spectators occupied every spot from which the dancers could be seen, and the branches above were bending under clusters of boys, the manœuvres of one of whom gave rise to an amusing incident, which throws some light on the extraordinary superstitions of the sect.
"The boy had fixed himself to the very end of a weak bough which was immediately above us, and threatened every moment to break under the weight. As I looked up I saw the impending danger, and made an effort by an appeal to the chief to avert it. 'If that young Sheit—' I exclaimed, about to use an epithet generally given in the East to such adventurous youths; * I checked myself immediately, but it was already too late; half the dreaded word had escaped. The effect was instantaneons; a look of horror seized those who were near enough to overhear me; it was quickly communicated to those beyond. The pleasant smile which usually played upon the fine features of the young Bey gave way to a serious and angry expression. I lamented that
* "The term Sheitan (equivalent to Satan) is usually applied in the East to a clever, cunning, or daring fellow." [begin surface 160]I had thus unwillingly wounded the feelings of my hosts, and was at a loss to know how I could make atonement for my indiscretion—doubting whether an apology to the evil principle or to the chief was expected. I endeavoured, however, to make them understand without venturing upon any observations which might have brought me into greater difficulties, that I regretted what had passed; but it was some time before the group resumed their composure and indulged in their previous merriment."—Vol. i. pp. 286, 287.
As the twilight faded, the Fakirs, or servants of the tomb, issued from the tomb to fill and trim the lamps on the walls of the court-yard, and in the different buildings, and even in isolated rocks, and the hollow trunks of trees. As the priests advanced, the crowds passed their right hands through the flames, and rubbed their right eye-brow, and that of the children, with the part purified by the sacred element. About an hour after sunset, the Fakirs were sent to Mr. Layard from the kitchen of the holy edifice with platters of boiled rice, roast meat, and fruit. The night scene, and the true character of the rites of the Yezidis, is thus given by our author:—
"As night advanced, those who had assembled—they must now have amounted to nearly 5000 persons—lighted torches which they carried with them, as they wandered through the forest. The effect was magical. The varied groups could be faintly distinguished through the darkness; men hurrying to and fro; women with their children seated on the house-tops, and crowds gathering round the pedlars who exposed their wares for sale in the court-yard. Thousands of lights were reflected in the fountains and streams, glimmered amongst the foliage of the trees, and danced in the distance. As I was gazing on this extraordinary scene, the hum of human voices was suddenly hushed, and a strain, solemn and melancholy, arose from the valley. It resembled some majestic chant which years before I had listened to in a distant land. Music so pathetic and so sweet I had never before heard in the East. The voices of men and women were blended in harmony with the soft notes of many flutes. At measured intervals the song was broken by the loud clash of cymbals and tambourines; and those who were without the precincts of the tomb then joined in the melody.
"I hastened to the sanctuary, and found Sheikh Nasr surrounded by the priests, seated in the inner court. The place was lighted up by torches and lamps, which threw a soft light over the white walls of the tomb and green foliage of the arbour. The Sheikhs in their white turbans and robes, all venerable men with long grey beards, were ranged on one side; on the opposite, seated on the stones, were about 30 Cawals, (one of the principal orders of the priesthood,) in their motley dresses of black and white—each performing on a tambourine or a flute. Around stood the Fakirs, in their dark garments; and the women of the orders of the priesthood, also arrayed in pure white. No others were admitted within the walls of the court.
"The same slow and solemn strain lasted for near an hour. A part of it was called 'Makam Azerat Esau,' or the Song of the Angel Jesus. It was sung by the Sheikhs, the Cawals, and the women, and occasionally by those without. I could not catch the words, nor could I prevail upon any of those present to repeat them to me. They were in Arabic, and as few of the Yezidis can speak or pronounce that language, they were not intelligible even to the experienced ear of Hodja Toma. The tambourines, which were struck simultaneously, only interrupted at intervals the song of the priests. As the time quickened they broke in more frequently. The chant gradually gave way to a lively melody, which, increasing in measure, was finally lost in a confusion of sounds. The tambourines were beaten with extraordinary energy; the flutes poured forth a rapid flood of notes; the voices were raised to the highest pitch; the men outside joined in the cry, whilst the women made the rocks resound with the shrill tahleel. The musicians, giving way to the excitement, threw their instruments into the air, and strained their limbs into every variety of contortion, until they fell exhausted to the ground. I never heard a more frightful yell than that which rose in the valley. It was midnight. The time and place were well suited to the occasion; and I gazed with wonder upon the extraordinary scene around me. Thus were probably celebrated ages ago the mysterious rites of the Corybantes, when they met in some consecrated grove. I did not marvel that such wild ceremonies had given rise to those stories of unhallowed rights and obscene mysteries which have rendered the name of Yezidi an abomination in the East. Notwithstanding the uncontrollable excitement which appeared to prevail among all present, there were no indecent gestures or unseemly ceremonies. When the musicians and singers were exhausted, the noise suddenly died away; the various groups resumed their previous cheerfulness, and again wandered through the valley, or seated themselves under the trees."—Vol. i. pp. 290-293.
On the second day of the festival the same ceremonies were repeated, and towards the evening of that day about 7000 persons had assembled. During the three days that Mr. Layard remained at Sheikh Adi he wandered over the valley and surrounding mountains, talking with the various groups of pilgrims, and listening to their tales of oppression and bloodshed.
Although we have no doubt of the truth of Mr. Layard's opinion that Sheikh Adi is not the scene of the orgies attributed to the Yezidis, because the whole valley is held sacred, and no acts permitted within its sacred precincts which the Jewish law has declared impure, yet we cannot believe that "stories" can be entirely without foundation "which have rendered the name of the Yezidis an abomination throughout the East." Mr. Layard acknowledges that they
[begin surface 161]are very suspicious of strangers, and fearful of betraying the secrets of their faith; and he admits, that some ceremony took place before he joined the assembly at the tomb, at which no strangers can be present, nor could he learn its nature from the Cawals.
The religion of this singular people is "a strange mixture of Sabæanism, Christianity, and Mohammedanism, with a tincture of the doctrines of the Gnostics and Manichæans." They recognise one supreme being, but do not appear to offer any direct prayer or sacrifice to him. It does not appear that they actually worship the devil. The name of the evil spirit is never mentioned, and the allusion to it by others is said to have been expiated by death. They avoid every expression resembling in sound the name of Satan, or the word for " accursed." They eschew Shat, a river, and even Keitan, a thread, as resembling Sheitan, the devil. When they do speak of him it is with reverence, as Melek Taous, King Peacock, and they have a bronze or copper figure of a bird (called Melek Taous) which they preserve as a symbol, not as an idol, and which is always kept by the Great Sheikh, and carried with him. They regard Satan as the chief of the angelic host, suffering punishment for rebellion against the Divine will, but all powerful, and hereafter to be restored. Inferior to him in might and wisdom are seven archangels. Christ they regard as a good angel, who took the human form and ascended to heaven without being crucified. They reverence the Old Testament, and do not reject either the New Testament or the Koran. They look for the second coming of Christ. They appear to have no religious observances on marriage, and the number of wives is not limited. The Sheikh, when he ascertains that there is mutual consent, marries the party, and a ring is given to the bride. They have four orders of priesthood —the Pirs or saints, the Sheikhs, who watch over the tomb of Sheikh Adi, the Cawals or preachers, and the Fakirs, who perform menial offices; and, what is unexampled in the East, all these offices are hereditary, and descend to females, who, when they enjoy them, are treated with the same consideration as the men.
Tahyar Pasha having planned an expedition into the Sinjar, Mr. Layard returned to Mosul, and accompanied the governor on his almost royal progress. The Yezidis of Mirkan, who had suffered from the extortions and cruelties of former Pashas, refused to meet him, and declared their intention of defending their village. The Pasha's troops soon entered and plundered the village, murdered the decrepit old men and women who could not escape, and burned it to the ground. The Yezidis took refuge in a narrow gorge, abounding in caverns and isolated rocks. After several days' hard fighting in which many of the Pasha's troops were killed, the Yezidis retreated during the night, by a pathway known only to themselves.
Anxious to renew the excavations, Mr. Layard took leave of the Pasha, and found on his return to Mosul letters from England, informing him that Sir Stratford Canning had presented the sculptures discovered in Assyria to the British nation, and that Government had granted funds to the British Museum for carrying on the researches commenced at Nimroud and elsewhere. Although this grant was small, and inferior to that made to M. Botta for the excavations at Khorsabad, yet Mr. Layard resolved to turn it to the best account, and was obliged to undertake the multifarious occupations of draughtsman, of cast-taker, sculpture-packer, and overseer of workmen. By the end of October he began to excavate, with a body of Arabs,—fifty Nestorian Chaldæans, who brought their wives and families,—a skilful marble-cutter,—a carpenter,—a few men from Mosul, and his three servants. The success of his operations was proportional to the strength of his establishment. A great number of beautifully executed bas-reliefs were discovered. They represented the wars of the King who stands gorgeously attired in a chariot drawn by three horses richly caparisoned. Behind him are three chariots with warriors and archers, and in several places are introduced groups of men slaying the enemy. The return after victory, the procession to the Royal castle, the siege of a town, the reception of captives, the crossing of a river, the embarkation of chariots and troops, are all finely represented in these interesting antiquities. Mr. Layard also found the remains of iron armour almost decomposed, and also remains of copper armour, and iron inlaid with copper. A perfect helmet, which immediately fell to pieces, and which is represented in the bas-reliefs, was discovered, together with vases of the finest alabaster, and vessels of baked clay;—but particularly a vase in glass, of elegant shape and admirable workmanship, bearing the title of the Khorsabad King.
In the centre of the mound where the pair of gigantic winged bulls, formerly mentioned, were found, the workmen disinterred an obelisk of black marble, about seven feet high. It was flat at the top, which was cut into three gradines. It contained on its four sides twenty small bas-reliefs, and above, below, and between them, was an inscription of 210 lines. It was in a state of high preservation,
[begin surface 162]the figures sharp and well-defined, and not a character of the inscription wanting. Mr. Layard conjectures that it was commemorative of the conquest of India, or some country far east of Assyria. In the southeast corner of the mound a pair of winged lions, with a pair of crouching sphinxes between them, were discovered. The fire which destroyed the building had raged here with extraordinary fury. The sphinxes, which were about five feet in height and length, were almost reduced to lime; and Mr. Layard had just made drawings of them, when they fell to pieces. In the south-east corner, the highest part of the mound, the workmen came upon the lid of an earthen sarcophagus, five feet long, but very narrow. The skeleton was well preserved, but fell to pieces when exposed to the air. The body had been doubled up when forced into it. Another, like a dish-cover, and scarcely four feet long, was found near the first. Neither of the skulls could be preserved, as they crumbled into dust when touched.
Mr. Layard had, early in December, collected a sufficient number of bas-reliefs to load another raft; but in consequence of the Arabs of the desert having stolen the spars, skins, and mats which he had collected for the purpose, it was not till the 25th of the month that he had the satisfaction of seeing a raft, bearing twenty-three cases, in one of which was the obelisk, floating down the Tigris to Baghdad.
In the second volume of this interesting work, Mr. Layard completes in four chapters the fourteen which contain the account of his excavations and his journeys to the hills—the remaining, and by far the largest part of the volume, being devoted to a dissertation of seven chapters, treating of the materials for the history of Assyria, the architecture, the arts, the costume, the military system, the private life, and the religion of the Assyrians.
Tahyar Pasha died of a broken heart, in consequence of having been led, by the false representations of his officers, to attack and plunder a friendly tribe. This event, however, did not interfere with the proceedings of Mr. Layard. After Christmas he resumed his labours in the north-west palace, where the sculptures had not suffered from fire. He had at this time discovered only eight chambers, but before the end of April he had explored almost the whole building, and had opened twenty-eight chambers cased with alabaster slabs. In addition to the usual bas-reliefs of warlike and triumphant kings, winged female deities, gigantic eagle-headed winged figures, and a curious representation of the Assyrian Venus, Mylitta, or Astarte, in a questionable position, he obtained a number of ivory ornaments of considerable beauty, and furnishing important evidence respecting the epoch at which the building was destroyed. When these ivories were uncovered, they were in such a state of decomposition, and adhered so firmly to the soil, that Mr. Layard spent hours lying on the ground, trying to separate them with his penknife from the surrounding rubbish. The ivory came off in flakes. Many valuable specimens were thus lost; but those which were brought to England have been admirably restored by a process of singular ingenuity, suggested, we think, as we have heard Mr. Layard say, by Dr. Buckland. The gelatinous matter which cemented, as it were, the particles of ivory, had been dissolved and removed; and by the re-absorption of gelatine dissolved in water, they have recovered the consistency and appearance of fresh ivory, and may be handled without the risk of injuring them!
"The most interesting of these ivories," says Mr. Layard, "are the remains of two small tablets, (nine inches long by six high,) one nearly entire, the other much injured. Upon them are represented two sitting figures, holding in one hand the Egyptian sceptre or symbol of power. Between them is a cartouche containing a name or words in hieroglyphics, and surmounted by a feather or plume, such as is found in monuments of the eighteenth and subsequent dynasties of Egypt. The chairs in which the figures are seated, the robes of the figures themselves, the hieroglyphics in the cartouche, and the feather above it, were enamelled with a blue substance, (horizontal strips of opaque blue glass, with a few bars in green,) let into the ivory; and the whole ground of the tablet, as well as the cartouche, and part of the figures, was originally gilded—remains of the gold leaf still adhering to them."—Vol. ii. pp. 9, 10.
Mr. Birch has, in a learned Paper published in the Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, (new series,) endeavoured to fix the age of these ivories, "by their artistic style, by their philological peculiarities, and by the political relations between Egypt and Syria." He regards them as not purely Egyptian, but closely resembling Egyptian workmanship; and he considers them as of the age of the 22d or Bubastite dynasty, or about 980 B. C. *
In excavating in the centre of the mound to the south of the great winged bulls, Mr. Layard found a tomb, five feet long, and eighteen inches broad, built of bricks, and covered with a slab of alabaster. The
*See Mr. Layard's Work, vol. ii. pp. 205, 420. [begin surface 163]skull and large bones of the skeleton were entire, and near the right shoulder were three earthen vessels. In the dust round the skeleton were parts of a necklace, beads of opaque coloured glass, agate, cornelian, and amethyst. A small crouching lion of lapis-lazuli was also found. The vases and ornaments were Egyptian in their character. Many other tombs were found containing vases, mirrors, spears, and beads. Having removed the contents of the tombs, the remains of a building were discovered five feet beneath them. The slabs, containing both sculptures and inscriptions, were scattered about without order. After nearly twenty tombs had been removed from a space about fifty feet square, the uncovered ruins had a singular aspect: above 100 slabs, packed in rows, leant against each other, like slabs in a stone-cutter's yard. As the Assyrians carved these slabs after they were placed, it was evident that this collection of them had been moved from their original position, or that the central building had been destroyed to supply materials for the construction of this edifice. The slabs were placed in a regular series according to the sculptures upon them, which were chiefly battles and sieges. To the south of the centre building two gigantic figures were discovered, similar to those discovered to the north.
"But here were tombs over the ruins. The edifice had perished; and in the earth and rubbish accumulated above its remains, a people, whose funeral vases and ornaments were identical in form and material with those found in the catacombs of Egypt, had buried their dead. What race, then, occupied the country after the destruction of the Assyrian palaces? At what period were these tombs made? What antiquity did their presence assign to the buildings beneath them? These are questions which I am yet unable to answer, and which must be left undecided until the origin and age of the contents of the tombs can be satisfactorily determined."—Vol. ii. pp. 19, 20.
In the south-west palace were found gigantic-winged bulls, lions with human heads, and double crouching sphinxes. All the walls had been exposed to fire, the slabs being cracked, and nearly reduced to lime. Amid a mass of charred wood and charcoal, and beneath a fallen slab, part of a beam of wood, apparently mulberry, was found in good preservation—the only portion of entire wood as yet discovered in the Assyrian ruins.
The principal burying-place of the people who occupied the country after the destruction of the oldest of the palaces, was on the south-east, or highest corner of the mound. Many tombs were here discovered, resembling dish-covers, and containing silver ornaments, lachrymatories, and small alabaster bottles. The skeletons, though at first entire, crumbled to pieces. Two skulls alone have been preserved. The remains of a building were discovered beneath the tombs, containing seven chambers. There were no traces of inscriptions upon the slabs, nor remains of colour upon the plastered walls.
On the eastern face of the mound a singular discovery was made. The wall which surrounded the lower buildings, built of sun-dried bricks, was nearly fifty feet thick, and, buried in its centre, about fifteen feet below the surface of the platform, the workmen found a small vaulted chamber, built of baked bricks. Its height and width were about ten feet. The arch was constructed on the well-known principle of vaulted roofs, the bricks being placed side-ways, and probably sustained by a wooden centering till the vault was finished. The greater part of the rubbish which piled this chamber was a kind of slag. The sides of the bricks which formed the arched roof and walls were almost vitrified. The chamber, indeed, had the appearance of a large furnace for making glass, or for fusing metal. As there was no access to this chamber from without, it must have been used before the upper part of the wall was built.
Although several trenches were opened in other parts of the mound, disclosing pavements, slabs, and articles in copper, yet the ruins were very inadequately explored, as Mr. Layard, from the smallness of the sum placed at his disposal, could not pursue his researches to the extent that he desired. He has, therefore, as he himself observes, "left a great part of the Mount of Nimroud to be explored by those who may hereafter succeed him in the examination of the ruins of Assyria."
The twelfth chapter of the work is occupied with an account of the excavations undertaken at Kalah Sherghat, (on the Tigris, about half a degree south of Nimroud,) and principally at the west side of the mound. A mutilated sitting figure, in black basalt, the only specimen existing of an entire Assyrian figure, had been uncovered before Mr. Layard arrived, a cuneiform inscription occupying the three sides of the square block on which the figure sat. He found upon it the names of the king's father (the builder of the most ancient palace of Nimroud) and of his grandfather; and an Arab having brought him a brick bearing a short legend, which "contained the three names entire, he was thus enabled to fix the comparative
[begin surface 164]epoch of the newly-discovered ruins." "At no time," says Mr. Layard, "did I feel the value of the genealogical lists on the different monuments at Nimroud more than when exploring other remains in Assyria. They enabled me to ascertain the comparative date of every edifice and rock-tablet with which I became acquainted, and to fix the style of art of each period." Several tombs like those found at Nimroud, and containing bones, &c., were discovered near the ruins, and above these ancient tombs were graves of more recent date, some of them, indeed, belonging to the tribes which had, a few days before, encamped among the ruins. The principal ruin here is a large mound, surmounted by a cone or pyramid, which rises nearly in the centre of the north side of the great platform. It is one of the largest in Assyria, being about 4685 yards in circuit. It is a stupendous structure, not inferior in magnitude and extent to any other artificial mound in Assyria. Its height is unequal, and its sides perpendicular, rising, in some places, nearly 100 feet above the plain. Mr. Layard does not venture to identify the city with Cholah, one of the four primitive cities mentioned in Genesis, or the Ur of Abraham, which existed in the time of Ammianus Marcellinus. Mr. Ainsworth considers Kalah Sherghat as the Ur of the Persians and Chaldæans; but as Ammianus Marcellinus does not mention Hatra after but before Ur, Mr. Layard regards Mr. Ainsworth's argument in favour of the identification of the latter city with Kalah Sherghat as scarcely tenable. *
Upon his return to Mosul, Mr. Layard made preparations for removing the sculptures to Baghdad. The trustees of the British Museum had wisely determined that the larger sculptures should not be sawn in pieces like the pair of bulls sent to France from Khorsabad. The winged bull and the lion were to remain covered over with earth till a favourable opportunity should occur for transporting them entire. Unwilling, however, to leave behind him the very finest specimen of Assyrian art which he had discovered, Mr. Layard resolved upon attempting the removal and embarkation of two of the smallest bulls and lions, and the best preserved of the thirteen pairs of those
gigantic sculptures which had been disinterred. A strong cart of mulberry was accordingly constructed, and a pair of strong iron axles purchased, which had been used by M. Botta. This cart was an object of wonder to all classes at Mosul; and its passage, by the aid of a pair of buffaloes, across the frail bridge of boats at Mosul, was an exciting spectacle. The bulk of the huge slabs was diminished by cutting away as much as possible from the back of them; and, in order to convey the bull from the river to the cart, a trench 200 feet long, 15 feet wide, and 20 feet deep, required to be cut. With ropes from Aleppo, hawsers from Baghdad, and blocks and jack-screws from the steamers of the Euphrates expedition, Mr. Layard began to remove the bull on the 18th of March. A large number of Abou Salman Arabs, with their Sheikh, attended by a body of horsemen, and the inhabitants of Haifa and Nimroud, aided Mr. Layard's Arabs and Nestorians on this momentous occasion. The lowering of the bull from its place, which is represented in a beautiful frontispiece to the first volume, was the most difficult part of the operation. The mass descended gradually amidst the intense anxiety of the spectators. The Arabs, half-frantic with excitement, raised their war-cry amid the drums and pipes of the Kurdish musicians; and almost naked, with their long hair floating in the wind, they indulged in the wildest postures and gesticulations as they clung to the ropes, their enthusiasm being increased by the incessant screams, and the ear-piercing tahleel of the women.
"The bull once in motion," says Mr. Layard, "it was no longer possible to obtain a hearing. The loudest cries I could produce were buried in the heap of discordant sounds. Neither the hippopotamus-hide whip of the Cowasses, nor the bricks and clods of earth with which I endeavoured to draw attention from some of the most noisy of the group, were of any avail. Away went the bull, steady enough as long as supported by the props behind; but as it came nearer to the rollers, the beams could no longer be used. The cable and ropes stretched more and more. Dry from the climate, as they felt the strain, they creaked and threw out dust. Water was thrown over them, but in vain, for they all broke together when the sculpture was within four or five feet of the rollers. The bull was precipitated to the ground. Those who held the ropes, thus suddenly released, followed its example, and were rolling one over the other in the dust. A sudden silence succeeded to the clamour. I rushed into the trenches, prepared to find the bull in many pieces. It would be difficult to describe my satisfaction, when I saw it lying precisely where I wished to place it, and uninjured! The Arabs no sooner got on their
* See " Notes of an excursion to Kalah Sherkat, the Ur of the Persians, and to the ruins of Al Hadhr, the Hutra of the Chaldees, and Hatra of the Romans." By WILLIAM AINSWORTH, Esq., in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. xi. pp. 1-21. This excursion was performed in April 1840, in company with Mr. Layard, Mr. Mitford, and Mr. Rassam, the English Vice-Consul. [begin surface 165]legs again, than seeing the result of the accident, they darted out of the trenches, and seizing by the hands the women who were looking on, formed a large circle, and yelling their war-cry with redoubled energy, commenced a most mad dance. The musicians exerted themselves to the utmost; but their music was drowned by the cries of the dancers. Even Abd-ur-rahman shared in the excitement, and throwing his cloak to one of the attendants, insisted upon leading off the Debké."—Vol. ii. pp. 82, 83.
The fortunate descent of the bull was signalized by feasting and dancing; and on the following day it was conveyed as far as the ruins of the former village of Nimroud, where it stuck in one of the deep pits in which the villagers deposit their winter stores. Here it remained during the night, watched by a party of Arabs, who were attacked by some adventurous Bedouins, who had coveted the ropes, mats, and felts in which the bull was enveloped. The thieves, however, were beaten off; and the bull, when raised out of the pit, was dragged in triumph to within a few hundred yards of the river,—an interesting scene which is well represented in the frontispiece to the second volume. The lion was removed more easily, though it took two days to reach the river; and with the aid of the Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman and his Arabs, the sculptures were placed on rafts floated by 600 skins.
After the departure of the lion and bull, Mr. Layard opened a deep trench or well in the high conical mound or pyramid, the whole mass of which he found to be built of sun-dried bricks. He supposes, that being originally cased with stone, or coloured baked bricks, it may have been raised over the tomb of some monarch, or intended as a watch-tower. There were no traces of an interior chamber. "It is possible, however," as Mr. Layard says, "that this may prove to be the very pyramid raised above the remains of the founder of the city by the Assyrian Queen, the 'Busta Nini,' under which may still be found some traces of the sepulchre of the great King." On the edge of the ruins were found two enormous winged bulls, 17 feet high, which had fallen from their place. Mr. Layard now began to bury the numerous sculptures which he was obliged to leave, in conformity with the instructions he received from the British Museum.
Mr. Layard concludes his thirteenth chapter with an interesting recapitulation of six pages, in which he endeavours to conduct the reader through the ruins of the principal edifice, and to convey to him some idea of the excavated halls and chambers as they appeared when fully explored. As our limits will not permit us to make such a long extract, we must try, in the space of one page, to present our readers with its essence. As we approach the mound not a trace of ruins is to be seen; a broad and parched platform alone meets the eye. By a flight of rudely cut steps, we descend about twenty feet into the principal trench, and suddenly find ourselves between a pair of colossal lions, winged and human-headed, and forming a portal. Leaving behind us a small chamber, in which the sculptures are rudely designed and executed, we pass from between the lions into the principal hall. On both sides of us are sculptured gigantic winged figures, eagle-headed and human-headed, with mysterious symbols in their hands. To the left is another portal, formed by winged lions. One of them has fallen across the entrance, and there is just room to creep beneath it. Beyond this portal is a winged figure and two slabs, with almost effaced bas-reliefs. Further on there are no traces of a wall. The opposite side of the hall has also disappeared, and we only see a high wall of earth, which we discover to be a solid structure built of bricks of unbaked clay, scarcely to be distinguished from the soil. Slabs of alabaster fallen from their original position have been raised, and we tread in the midst of a maze of small bas-reliefs representing chariots, horsemen, battles, and sieges. Having walked about 100 feet among these monuments, we reach another door-way, formed by gigantic winged bulls in yellow limestone. One is entire; the great human head of the other is at our feet, and its body broken in pieces. Without entering the building to which this portal leads, we see, as we pass on, another winged figure, apparently presenting a flower to the winged bull, and adjoining it eight fine bas-reliefs, representing the king hunting and triumphing over the lion and the wild bull, and also the siege of the castle with the battering ram. We are now at the end of the hall, and before us is an elaborate sculpture,—two kings standing beneath the emblem of the Supreme Deity, and attended by winged figures. Between them is the sacred tree. In front of this bas-relief is the great stone platform on which the Assyrian throne may have stood. Issuing through a fourth outlet from the hall, between another pair of lions, we are stopped by a deep ravine, to the north of which towers above us the lofty pyramid. On walls near this ravine are seen various figures of tribute-bearing captives and monkeys; and lying on its very edge are two enormous bulls, and two winged figures above 14 feet high. Returning to the yellow bulls, we
VOL. XI. 9 [begin surface 166]pass between them into a large chamber, surrounded by eagle-headed figures, having at one end a door-way guarded by two priests, and in the centre another portal with winged bulls. Whichever way we turn we are in the midst of a nest of rooms, and would soon lose ourselves. As the rubbish has been placed in the centre of the chambers, the excavations consist of a number of narrow passages, panelled on one side with slabs of alabaster, and shut in on the other by a high wall of earth, in which a broken vase or a painted brick may be seen. Other entrances, formed by winged lions, lead us into new chambers, containing fresh objects which at once surprise and interest us. Emerging from the buried palace by a trench opposite to that by which we entered, we are again upon the level platform. "We are half-inclined to believe that we have dreamed a dream, or have been listening to some tale of eastern romance." "Some," says our author, "who may hereafter tread on the spot when the grass again grows over the ruins of the Assyrian palaces, may indeed suspect that I have been relating a vision."
The country round Nimroud having become dangerous from the incursions of the Arabs, and a small sum of money being still in his hands, Mr. Layard devoted it to an examination of the ruins opposite Mosul, especially the great mound of Koyunjik. Slabs had from time immemorial been taken from this mound for building materials, or to be burnt for lime, and a bas-relief had been some years ago discovered during a search after stones for a bridge across the Tigris. Beneath Jonah's tomb and the village there was reason to expect remains of considerable importance, which had only been preserved by the superincumbent property. The French consul had excavated this mound unsuccessfully, but Mr. Layard had now discovered from experience the proper method of examination. In building a palace the Assyrians first constructed a platform or solid compact mass of sun-dried bricks, about 30 or 40 feet high. Upon this they reared their fabric, and when it was destroyed the ruins remained on the platform, half-covered by the upper walls and roof, and covered in course of time by the dust and sand of the summer winds. The first step in excavation, therefore, is to reach the brick platform, and open trenches on the same level, and in every direction. The platform here was 20 feet deep, and the wall first discovered was the side of a chamber, with an entrance formed by winged bulls, leading into a second hall. In the course of a month nine chambers, the largest of which was 130 feet long and 30 wide, were explored,—similar to those of Nimroud and Khorsabad. The bas-reliefs, however, were larger, being about 10 feet high and 8½ wide, and the winged human-headed bulls, forming the entrance, about 15 feet square. The inscriptions were not numerous. The name of the king was the son of the builder of Khorsabad. The sculptures were generally of the same character as those described—the conquests and triumphs of the Assyrian king. One of them, however, was uncommon. It was a sea-piece, representing vessels filled with warriors, leaving a castle on the sea-shore. Mr. Layard regards this sculpture as recording an Assyrian conquest of Tyre.
"This," says Mr. Layard, " was the extent of my discoveries at Koyunjik. The ruins were evidently those of a palace of great extent and magnificence. From the size of the slabs, and the number of the figures, the walls, when entire and painted, as they no doubt originally were, must have been of considerable beauty, and the dimensions of the chambers must have added greatly to the general effect. At that time the palace rose above the river, which swept round the foot of the mound. Then also the edifice now covered by the village of Nebbi Yunus, stood entire above the stream, and the whole quadrangle was surrounded by lofty walls cased with stone, their towers adorned with sculptured alabaster, and their gateways formed by colossal bulls. The position of the ruins proves that at one time this was one of the most important parts of Nineveh; and the magnificence of the remains shews that the edifices must have been founded by one of the greatest of the Assyrian monarchs."—Vol. ii. pp. 138, 139.
Mr. Ross has more recently pursued these excavations at the desire of the Trustees of the British Museum. He has found that there were more buildings than one on the platform, and in addition to many bas-reliefs divided in the centre by bands of inscriptions, he has discovered a monument of considerable interest, supposed to have been an Assyrian tomb.
Having covered up the sculptures which he could not remove, and transported to Busrah the valuable results of his labours, Mr. Layard left Mosul and returned to England, to receive the applause and gratitude of the public, aud we trust the more substantial rewards which a distinguished scholar is entitled to expect from his Sovereign,—rewards which he never fails to receive in every other country but ours. The Governments of France and England have a right to complete the researches which they have so successfully begun, and we earnestly hope that neither penurious cabinets, nor empty exchequers, nor civil broils, will
[begin surface 167]prevent them from advancing ample funds to rescue from barbaric hands and fanatical hearts the magnificent remains which still lie deep in the plains of Mesopotamia.
Having given a history of his excavations, and a description of the discoveries to which they lead, Mr. Layard has devoted the second part of his work, consisting of seven chapters, to an inquiry into the history, the civilisation, the manners, and the arts of the ancient Assyrians. These chapters, which are illustrated by a large number of admirably executed woodcuts, exhibit much learning and ingenuity, and considering how limited and incomplete were his materials, Mr. Layard's dissertation will be perused with deep interest by the philosophical as well as the general reader, while the pious student will ponder with delight over the numerous illustrations and confirmations of the descriptions and statements of the Old Testament Scriptures. We regret that our too narrow limits will not allow us to make extracts from this portion of Mr. Layard's volumes. We shall merely indicate the more important conclusions at which he has arrived. From the concurring testimony of Scripture and Herodotus, 606 B. C. is the date of the conquest of Nineveh by Cyaxares. The buildings must, therefore, be assigned to an epoch preceding 634 B. C., as the Scyths had held Assyria 28 years before that era. Two written characters were in use among the Assyrians, the cuneiform or arrow-headed, which has been so successfully studied by Major Rawlinson, and which, like the hieroglyphics of Egypt, is read from left to right—and the cursive or hieratic, which, like the Hebrew and Arabic, runs from right to left. It is not known which of these two modes of writing is the more ancient, but it is probable that simple perpendicular, and horizontal lines preceded rounded forms. The cuneiform writing has been classed by Major Rawlinson into Assyro-Babylonian, Primitive Babylonian, Medo-Assyrian, Assyrian and Elymæan. Mr. Layard suggests the substitution of early and later Assyrian, for Assyrian and Medo-Assyrian, and he thinks it may be asserted with confidence, that the most ancient hitherto discovered is the Assyrian.
The earliest records of the Assyrians were cut on the walls of temples, palaces, or the smooth faces of rock. The most common mode was on prepared bricks, tiles, * or cylinders of clay, baked after the inscription was impressed. The letters on the Babylonian bricks have been stamped, and perhaps some of those on the Assyrian ones, but it is more probable that they were cut with a sharp instrument of iron. * Major Rawlinson found traces of varnish on the surface of the rock at Behistan, intended doubtless to preserve the tablet with its inscription.
After discussing the various dates of the different buildings, Mr. Layard concludes that the first palace could not have been founded later than 900 years B. C. He considers 1100 or 1200 B. C. as the date of the most ancient palace, according to the most moderate calculation, though he thinks it probable that it is much more ancient. The following are the dates of the principal events of Assyrian history, according to Clinton. †
This table describes the dates of principal events of Assyrian history.Mr. Layard concludes, in general—
1. That there were at least two distinct periods of Assyrian history, great changes having taken place between the building of the first palace at Nimroud, and that of the edifices at Khorsabnd and Koyunjik.
2. That the names of the kings prove a lapse even of some centuries between the earliest and the latest of those edifices.
3. That there was a close connexion with Egypt, either by conquest or friendly intercourse, between the dates of these edifices.
4. That the earlier palaces of Nimroud were in ruins and buried before the foundation of the later; and,
5. That two distinct dynasties existed in Assyria, and that an Assyrian monarchy was founded about 2000 years before Christ.
As the details of Assyrian architecture, of the arts of painting and sculpture, of the arms, costumes, and military instruments of the Assyrians, of their private life, and religious rites, are too minute to admit of our giving any general account of them, we must refer our readers to the remaining chapters of the work.
Although our author has given many specimens of the sculptures of Nineveh in his first work, yet it is only from the second—
* Ezekiel iv. 1. * Job xix. 23, 24. † Fasti Hellenici, quoted by Mr Layard. [begin surface 168]THE MONUMENTS OF NINEVEH, that we can form an adequate idea of their beauty and magnificence. We have waited till the last hour, in the hope of being able to give our readers some account of this remarkable volume; but though we have been disappointed in not having an opportunity of examining in succession its Hundred Plates, yet having seen in Mr. Layard's possession many of the original drawings, and a great number of the Plates, we can assure our readers of their surpassing beauty, and of their superiority in style and execution to other works of the same class. Mr. Layard's skill as an artist is as strikingly displayed in this volume, as his powers as a writer in his descriptive work. The minuteness of detail which characterizes the Nineveh Sculptures is given with an accuracy and a richness of effect which cannot fail to excite universal admiration.
Such is a brief account of the discoveries of Mr. Layard, and of the two works in which they are embodied and immortalized. Had they been merely the production of a traveller, describing countries and races which every person might visit, and antiquities which every person could see, they would have been studied with deep interest, and would have commanded our admiration of the talents, and learning, and character of their author. The chapters in which he narrates his visit to the Chaldæan Christians, to the Yezidis, and to the different Arab tribes, might have been expanded into an interesting work, even if the ruins of Nineveh had never been mentioned; but forming as they do instructive and amusing episodes,—resting-places, as it were, for the reader's mind, when tired, perchance, by the minutiæ of archæological details, or roused by the successive display of the gigantic remains of a mighty empire, and a primæval age,—the whole work cannot fail to be regarded as one of the most interesting and important that the present century has produced. It is not often that we meet, in the field of literature or science, with high talent, and profound learning, combined with a generous philanthropy, a native modesty, and an elevated tone of moral and religious feeling. Within the volumes which we have been analyzing, our readers will doubtless find ample evidence that their author possesses these estimable qualities; and having had the privilege of personally knowing Mr. Layard, we can gratify them by the assurance that they will have formed a correct estimate of the living man.
The position which our author now occupies in the literary world as a traveller, an antiquary, a scholar, and a vigorous and eloquent writer, has, as such a position usually does, excited an ardent desire, on the part of the public, to know something of his early history, and of the circumstances under which his mind was prepared for such arduous achievements. We are glad to be able to satisfy, to a certain extent, this laudable curiosity. Mr. Layard is descended from a noble Protestant French family, whose representative fled from his native country at the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. His father, who was the son of the Reverend Dr. Layard, Dean of Bristol, filled a high civil office in Ceylon, between the years 1820 and 1830, and took a great interest in the circulation of the Scriptures among heathen nations. He was a man of considerable classical learning, and of refined tastes. During the youth of his son, he lived at Florence, where our young antiquary had free access to the stores of the Pitti Palace and of the Tribune. He thus became familiar from his infancy with the language of Tuscany, and formed his taste for the fine arts and literature, upon the models of painting and sculpture amid which he lived, and in the rich libraries which he frequented. In this manner did he add a thorough knowledge of modern languages to a competent one of those of ancient Greece and Rome. Here also did Mr. Layard acquire, without knowing be acquired it, a power over his pencil, which long lay dormant, and which was called forth, if not summoned into existence, by the appalling sight of slabs with the noblest sculptures and the finest inscriptions, crumbling into dust before his eyes. No draughtsman had been provided to help him, and had he not instantly determined to arrest by the quickness of his eye, and the magic of his pencil, those fleeting forms which were about to disappear for ever, many of the finest remains of ancient art would have been irrecoverably lost.
When Mr. Layard returned from Italy to his native country, he was urged to choose the profession of the law by a relative, who held out to him considerable inducements to make such a choice. Persuaded to follow this advice, he entered with his usual ardour upon the studies which it required. His aspiring mind, however, refused to be fettered by the drudgery of so inactive a profession. His thirst for knowledge, his love of adventure, and his foreign tastes and habits, conspired against law, and led him, after a brief apprenticeship, to follow the native bias of his mind. He accordingly left England with no very definite object, in the summer of 1839, and, accompanied by a friend, he
[begin surface 169]visited Russia and several of the Northern kingdoms. Having sojourned for some time in Germany, and several of the States on the Danube, he made himself master of the German language, and of several of the dialects of Transylvania. From Dalmatia he passed into Montenegro, where he remained a considerable time, assisting an able and active young chief in ameliorating the condition of his semi-barbarous subjects. Travelling through Albania and Romelia, where he met with numerous adventures, he arrived at Constantinople about the end of 1839. Here he made arrangements for visiting Asia Minor and different countries in the East; and he spent some years in these interesting regions, adopting the costume, and leading the life, of an Arab of the Desert, and acquiring a thorough knowledge of the manners and languages of Turkey and Arabia. In 1840 or 1841, Mr. Layard transmitted to the Royal Geographical Society, an Itinerary from Constantinople to Aleppo, which does not seem to have been published; and in the eleventh volume of the Journal of that Society, we have an account of the journey which he performed with Mr. Ainsworth in April 1840. He travelled in Persia in the same year, and he projected a journey for the purpose of examining Susa, and some other places of interest in the Bactyari mountains, to which Major Rawlinson had drawn the attention of the Geographical Society. With this view, he left Ispahan in the middle of September, in company with Schiffeer Khan, a Baktyari chief; and having crossed the highest part of the great chain of Mungasht, he visited the ruins of Manjinik, which are of considerable extent, and resemble those of the Sassanian cities. He visited also the ruins in the plain of Mel Amir, and he copied some of the cuneiform inscriptions. The sculptures on the four tablets adjoining the natural cave, two colossal figures on which represent priests of the Magi, appear to be of ancient date. In crossing the hills to Susan, he was attacked by a tribe of Dinarunis, and robbed of his watch, compass, and other articles; but having complained to the Chief, and insisted on the return of every missing article, he received back the whole of his property. It had been his practice to traverse these mountains quite alone, and he was never attacked or insulted, except upon this occasion, when the country was in a state of war. He found scarcely any remains at Susan to indicate the site of a large city. The tomb of Daniel is a comparatively modern building of rough stones,—(it is said to be of mud in another place),—and containing two apartments. In 1842 and 1843, Mr. Layard seems to have spent a considerable time in the province of Kuzistan, an elaborate description of which he communicated through Lord Aberdeen to the Royal Geographical Society. *
It was during these various journeys that Mr. Layard prepared himself for the great task to which his life and talents were to be devoted. In his wanderings through Asia Minor and Syria he had scarcely left a spot untrodden which tradition hallowed, or a ruin unexamined, which was consecrated by history. His companion shared his feelings and his zeal. Unmindful of danger, they rode alone with no other protection than their arms. They tended their own horses, and mixing with the people they acquired their manners and their language.
"I look back," says our author, "with feelings of grateful delight to those happy days, when, free and unheeded, we left at dawn the humble cottage or cheerful tent, and lingering as we listed, unconscious of distance and of the hour, found ourselves, as the sun went down, under some hoary ruin, tenanted by the wandering Arab, or in some crumbling village still bearing a well known name. No experienced dragoman measured our distances and appointed our stations. We were honoured by no conversation with Pashas, nor did we seek any civilities from Governors. We neither drew tears nor curses from villagers by seizing their horses or provisions; their welcome was sincere! their scanty fare was placed before us; we ate, and came and went in peace. I had traversed Asia Minor and Syria, visiting the ancient seats of civilization, and the spots which Religion had made holy. I now felt an irresistible desire to penetrate to the regions beyond the Euphrates, to which history and tradition point as the birth-place of the Wisdom of the West."—Vol. i. p. 1.
With these feelings Mr. Layard looked to the banks of the Tigris, and he longed to dispel the mysterious darkness which hung over Assyria and Babylonia. We have already given an account of his preliminary visits to Mosul,—of his inspection of the
* Journal of the Geographical Society, 1840, vol. xvi. pp. 1-106. In describing the tribes of Mamessini, Mr. Layard mentions the following extraordinary act of cruelty committed by that barbarous eunuch, the Mo'tammid, upon the followers of Wali Khan, the legitimate chief of the Mamessini:—" He built a lofty tower of living men; they were placed horizontally one above another, and closely united together with mortar and cement, their heads being left exposed. Some of these unfortunate beings lived several days, and I have been informed that a negro did not die till the tenth day. Those who could eat were supplied with bread and water by the inhabitants of Shiraz, at the gate of which this tower was built. It still exists, an evidence of the utter callousness to cruelty of a Persian invested with power."—A Description of the Province of Kuzistan, p. 26, note. [begin surface 170]ruins of Nimroud and Koyunjik, and of his interview with Sir Stratford Canning at Constantinople, when on his way to England. This eminent individual immediately discovered and appreciated the character and talents of Mr. Layard. His knowledge of the East and of its manners and languages recommended him in a peculiar manner to the notice of our ambassador, who persuaded him to remain with the embassy, and employed him on many important occasions. Sir Stratford took a deep interest in the excavations made by the French Consul, and he permitted and aided Mr. Layard in carrying on those interesting researches which we have already described.
During Mr. Layard's stay in England he suffered severely from the monthly recurrence of an aguish fever, caught in the damp apartments which he was obliged to inhabit at Nimroud; but notwithstanding this indisposition, so unfavourable to intellectual pursuits, he prepared for the press, during his short stay in England, the two works under our notice, and for the trustees of the British Museum a volume of Inscriptions in the cuneiform character, which we trust will soon be published and submitted to the scrutiny of European scholars.
We cannot close Mr. Layard's volumes without giving expression to the feelings which they have excited, and recording our opinion of the vast importance of his discoveries. To the Scripture student, who looks back with an eager interest to the early epochs of his faith, obscured by the mists of truthless legends, and the exaggerations of profane history, and who has studied these events but in the flickering light of prophetic inspiration, the contemplation of Nineveh in its ruins must be a source of inexhaustible delight. In its utter destruction, rendered visible only in its fragments and in its dust, he recognises the inspiration of the prophet that pronounced its doom; and in the crumbling remains which have been preserved inviolate, till the world was wise enough to appreciate them, he sees a step in the great tide of advancing knowledge which is to disclose to our race the hitherto invisible glories of infinite space, and the apparently inaccessible mysteries of primæval time. Already has the disinterment of ancient life carried us back to the cycles of the past—to study the catastrophes and the creations by which the earth was prepared for the reception of man. The relics of those mysterious times have been embalmed and preserved amid the desolations of flood and of fire, and we at present know more of the structures of organic life which preceded the creation of man, than of those of the early period of our own current cycle. The antiquary, however, is now rivalling the geologist, and the buried relics of even the most ancient age will doubtless be gradually recovered from their subterranean abode. Hillocks leap'd On what were chambers, arch crush'd, column strown In fragments, choked-up vaults and frescoes steep'd In subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd Deeming it midnight; Temples, baths, or halls, are now surrendering their contents, or telling the story of their birth. From the mounds of Babylon, as from those of Nineveh, we shall yet recover her monuments, and indite her annals of idolatry and crime; and even the antediluvian age may yield to the scrutiny of another century the scanty materials of her history, and the pristine monuments of her skill. The first city—the city of Enoch, may yet be surveyed, in stone or in dust, beneath some nameless heap, where the Armenian shepherd now feeds his flocks; and the brass and iron utensils of Tubal-cain may yet exhibit to us the infant ingenuity of our race. The planks of Gopher-wood which floated Noah over the universe of waters may yet rise from the flanks or the base of Ararat in lignite or in coal; and the first altar—that which Noah "builded " to his Maker and Preserver, may yet be thrown up from its burying-place by the mighty earthquakes that shake the plain of Araxes.
But while we thus hail the light which the future is to throw upon the past, let us not shut our eyes against the radiance which the past throws upon the future. If the "cedar of Lebanon," with "fallen branches" and broken boughs, has been cut off from "the land," let "the trees of the field" take warning lest they also be "delivered unto death." If Nineveh, "full of lies and robbery," has been devoured by fire—if God "made its grave," "because it was vile," what will be the fate of the "bloody cities" of modern times that are deaf to the preaching of a greater than Jonah, and "turn not from the violence that is in their hands!" The history of empires promulgates the stern and immutable decree that the most powerful of them must fall. From this sentence there has been hitherto no respite; and in the characters of princes, and nations, and men, we can discover no reasons for its repeal.
To a more serene and distant future, however, the anxious spirit looks forward with less dismay. It longs for "the wings of a dove, that it may flee away and be at
[begin surface 171]rest." Beyond the convulsions of Nature's elements;—out of the reach of human passions;—undisturbed by the ferocious will of man, and unstained by his bloody deeds, the eye of faith descries a city which cannot be moved—the goal of the sage—the resting-place of the pilgrim—the tabernacle of the saints. The tree of life is not sculptured upon its walls—nor the deeds of its King emblazoned upon its marbles. No manacled slave excites the sympathy of the triumphant throng. Its ransomed captives shine in white robes—kings and priests unto God. From this azure bourne man seeks not to return. The globe of earth—the cradle of his race, beyond which the child of suffering and crime has but seldom looked—now looms in his horizon, a minute and twinkling star,—the community of worlds to which it belongs stands out in all its magnitude and glory, and in the Unfathomable Infinite he sees, in their full development, the mighty attributes of wisdom, benevolence, and power.
THE history of the Papacy constitutes a large portion of the history of Modern Europe; and in all its various aspects, and in all its different departments, it is invested with peculiar interest. For a period of about a thousand years, the history of the Papacy is virtually the history of Christianity; and for a longer period it has embraced many of the events and influences that bore most powerfully and extensively upon the interests of literature, civilisation, and general politics, as well as of religion and morality. The history of the rise and progress of the papacy presents a singularly interesting subject of contemplation, and is fitted to suggest many important and useful lessons. That a succession of men in one place, calling themselves ministers of Christ, and professing to act in his name and for the accomplishment of his purposes, should have succeeded in getting themselves recognised over nearly all Christendom as the vice-gerents of Christ on earth, and the monarchs of his whole Church, and that they should not only have become temporal princes, but should also have claimed the right, and acquired the power, of disposing of crowns and kingdoms, must appear very extraordinary to any one who has formed his views of the ends of Christ's mission, and of the constitution and objects of His kingdom, from the statements of the New Testament. And, independently altogether of the bearing of this subject upon theological discussions and religious interests, the history of the Papacy, as a mere series of events, viewed in connexion with their causes and their consequences, exhibits a great deal that is fitted to occupy and to interest the historian and the philosopher. In former times the history of the Papacy was very fully discussed as an important branch of the controversy between Protestants and Romanists; Protestants professing to find in the history of the Church of Rome a great deal to refute the Romish interpretation of our Saviour's promises concerning his Church, and of the claims which the Romish See had been long accustomed to put forth; and Romanists endeavouring to defend themselves as well as they could against the blows aimed at them from this quarter. The leading Popish positions connected with this subject are these—1st, That Christ's statements and promises concerning his Church necessarily imply that there should always exist upon earth, in unbroken succession, a wide-spread, easily recognisable, society, which should always maintain in perfect purity the doctrines which he and his apostles taught, and the ordinances which they established; and, 2d, That, in point of fact, all this has been fully realized and exhibited in the Church of Rome. Protestants, on the other hand, contend—1st, That Christ's promises do not necessarily imply the continued and permanent existence of such a society; 2d, That, in point of fact, no such society can be traced in unbroken succession in any one part of the Christian world; and, 3d, That this character does not apply to the Papacy or the Church of Rome. In accordance with their fundamental principles, Protestants establish these positions by an appeal to Scripture, by fairly investigating the meaning of its statements, and by bringing all the doctrines and transactions which the history of the Church presents to be tried by the written Word. But they can produce a great deal from the mere history of the Papacy which, even independently of Scripture, tends greatly to confirm these conclusions, and to overturn the claims of the Church of Rome to the possession of the qualities of unity, sanctity, catholicity, and apostolicity, which Romanists
[begin surface 172]usually put forth as the distinguishing marks of the true Church. An honest investigation of the history of the Church is conclusively fatal to the pretensions of the Church of Rome to the possession of these qualities. It affords abundant materials to prove, that the Church of Rome has varied greatly in different ages in its doctrines, government, and worship; that it has always been, and still is, characterized by a want of internal unity on some subjects of importance; that it has been pre-eminently distinguished for a long succession of ages by its want of sanctity, by its unscrupulous prosecution of its own selfish interests as distinguished from the legitimate objects of a Church of Christ, and its unprincipled violation of the laws of God and man in the promotion of these interests; and, lastly, that its present system of doctrine, government, and worship was not that which was taught and established by the apostles. The proof of this last position from the history of the Church, as distinguished from the proof of it from a direct comparison of the present doctrines and practices of the Church of Rome with statements of Scripture, consists of the evidence which Protestants have adduced, that some of the Romish doctrines and practices were first broached and introduced into the Church at a certain specified time, and that others, the precise origin of which cannot, from want of materials, be so clearly traced and so certainly established, were unknown in the Church at a particular specified period, and are thus cut off from all connexion with the teaching of the apostles. It was the conclusive establishment of these positions, and especially the impossibility of disputing them amid the light thrown upon the subject by the profound historical investigations which have of late been prosecuted upon the Continent, that led to the invention, by Moehler and De Maistre, of the Theory of Development, which has been so fully unfolded by Mr. Newman. This theory is in substance just an ingenious evasion of the proper direct historical argument, for it is chiefly employed as a substitute for the proof which formerly Romanists felt themselves bound to produce, that their present system of doctrines and practices had been handed down from apostolic times, and for the answers which they admitted they were bound to furnish to the historical evidence adduced by Protestants, that many of these doctrines and practices were the inventions of later ages.
But many of the investigations which have of late been prosecuted on the Continent in connexion with the history of the Church of Rome and the Middle Ages, have not been exclusively directed to controversial purposes, to the object of affording materials for settling the theological questions which are agitated between Protestants and Romanists. The subject has been investigated fully, and in some instances fairly and impartially, in its merely historical as distinguished from its theological aspects, in its bearing upon literature and the fine arts, upon the progress of society, upon civilisation and government. The impartiality exhibited in the investigation of these topics, in connexion with the history of the Papacy and the Middle Ages, is to be found indeed chiefly in writers who have borne the name of Protestants, and the cause of this is partly, that not a few bear that name who know and care nothing about Protestantism in its religious or theological sense, but principally, that honest and intelligent Protestants know that these topics have no real bearing upon the theological questions at issue between them and the Church of Rome, and are therefore under no temptation to conceal or misrepresent the testimony of history regarding them. It may be true that the Papacy has on some occasions rendered services to the cause of literature and the fine arts, has contributed to the progress of civilisation and the establishment of good government; but though all this were proved, and though nothing could be established under these heads to counterbalance the services rendered, so far as concerned the temporal welfare of men and the improvement of society, this would not afford a proof, and not even a presumption, that Popery was the religion of Christ and his apostles, or that the bishops of Rome are authorized to rule the universal Church as the successors of Peter and the vicars of Christ.
Romanists, however, have diligently and skilfully employed these various topics, and the admissions of Protestant writers concerning them, to prepossess men's minds in favour of the doctrines and practices of Popery as a religious and theological system and in favour of the claims of the Bishops of Rome to universal supremacy, and there can be no reasonable doubt that this is one of the means by which they have succeeded in the present day in securing a large measure of favour and countenance for Popery and the Papacy, from men who, though calling themselves Protestants, know nothing of what Protestantism is, or of what are the grounds on which it rests.
The leading objects to which the labours of Romish writers upon the Continent are now usually directed in the department of historical investigation, are to explain away
The Director of the Statistical Bureau of Berlin furnishes the following curious statement:—The population of the whole earth is estimated to be 1,288,000,000, viz:—Europe, 272,000,000; Asia, 755,000,000; Africa, 200,000,000; America, 59,000,000; and Australia, 2,000,000. The population of Europe is thus subdivided:—Russia contains 62,000,000; the Austrian States, 36,398,620; France, 36,039,954; Great Britain and Ireland, 27,488,853; Prussia, 17,089,407; Turkey, 18,740,000; Spain, 15,518,008; the Two Sicilies, 8 616,922; Sweden and Norway, 5,072,820; Sardinia, 4,976,034; Belgium, 4,607,066; Bavaria, 4,547,239; the Netherlands, 3,487,617; Portugal, 3,471,199; the Papal States, 3,100,000; Switzerland, 2,494,500; Denmark, 2,468,648. In Asia, the Chinese empire contains 400,000,000; the East Indies, 171,000,000; the Indian Archipelago, 80,000,000; Japan, 35,000,000; Hindostan and Asiatic Turkey, each 15,000,000. In America the United States are computed to contain 23,191,876; Brazil, 7,677,800; Mexico, 7,661,520. In the several nations of the earth there are 335,000,000 of Christians, (of whom 170,000,000 are Papists, 89,000,000 Protestants, and 76,000,000 followers of the Greek Church.) The number of Jews amounts to 5,000,000; of these 2,890,750 are in Europe, viz:—1,250,000 in European Russia, 853,304 in Austria, 234,248 in Prussia; 192,176 in other parts of Germany, 62,470 in the Netherlands, 33,953 in Italy, 73,995 in France, 86,000 in Great Britain, and 70,000 in Turkey. The followers of various Asiatic religions are estimated at 600,000,000, Mahomedans at 160,000,000, and “heathens” (the Gentiles proper), at 200,000,000.
According to the census of 1850, there were in the United States 23,191,876 people. At the same time there were 26,842 clergymen, or one clergyman to 863 people. But New Hampshire takes the lead in supporting clergymen, as she has one clergyman to every 490 people. Connecticut stands next, with one clergyman to every 526 people. All the New England States support one clergyman to less than 600 people. New York has one clergyman to every 722 people, Virginia one to 1,317, South Carolina one to 1,410, Louisiana one to 3 000.
1. Geography is a description of the earth.
2. Geography includes astronomy, which teaches us that the earth is a planet revolving round the sun: it includes geology, which considers the formation and structure of the globe. But the special province of geography is to describe the surface of the earth, its distribution into land and water, and the various objects, whether physical, moral, or political, which appear upon it.
History is a record of past events.
4. In its fullest extent, history means an account of past events, with the causes which led to them, and the consequences to which they tend. It is thus divided into two parts, descriptive and philosophical. It embraces chronology, which is a record of dates at which great events have happened; and geography, which exhibits the scenes in which they have happened. Minute geographical description of places is called topography.
1. The Shape of the Earth is that of a globe, ball, or sphere.
2. It is found, however, by calculation, that the earth is not a perfect sphere: it is flattened at the poles, so as to be twenty-six miles more in diameter at the equator than at the poles, and hence is called an oblate spheroid.
3. In the early ages of the world, mankind supposed the earth to be a vast plain, terminating on all sides in a shoreless sea, or a region of darkness. This idea prevailed till about 400 years ago, when the true form of the earth was ascertained—though some philosophers seem to have suspected the globular form of the earth at an earlier date.
4. The spherical or globular shape of the earth is proved in many ways. 1. Persons have frequently been round the world, as a fly is seen to creep round an apple. Ships are in the constant habit of sailing round the earth. 2. When you are upon the top of a high mountain, you can see that the land and sea slope away on all sides, as if you stood on the top of a vast globe. 3. The sea is observed to be globular, for the masts of a ship are seen first in the distance, and the hull afterwards. 4. An eclipse of the moon is occasioned by the earth coming between the sun and moon, and casting its shadow upon the latter. This shadow of the earth is always observed to be circular.
5. The earth is surrounded by a thin transparent element, called the air or atmosphere, which exhibits the phenomena of rain, snow, clouds, &c. The solid body of the earth is composed of matter in many forms—as soil, rocks, fire, vapor, water vegetables, animals, &c. All these are kept together by a principle
LESSON I. QUESTIONS—1. What is geography? 2. What of astronomy? What of geology? 3. What is history? 4. What does it mean, in its fullest extent? How is it divided? What of topography?
LESSON II. 1. What is the shape of the earth? 2. How is the earth flattened at the poles? What is it hence called? 3. What idea had the ancients respecting the earth? When was the true form of the earth ascertained? 4. How is the globular form of the earth
2 [begin surface 179]of attraction called gravitation. The operation of this is easily illustrated.
6. If we throw a stone into the air, it falls to the earth; that is, it is drawn back to the earth by attraction or gravitation. It is this power, or principle, which keeps the hills, rocks, houses, cities, and seas, steadfast on the earth. This principle never fails. It operates at all times, and in all places, over the whole surface of the globe, so that, upon whichever side we may be, we are kept upon it. Thus it is that every part of the surface of the world is habitable by man and animals.
1. The motions of the earth are twofold—one diurnal, on its own axis, and one annual, round the sun. This double motion of the earth also belongs to the other planets, and perhaps to all the heavenly bodies. Day and night proceed from the first motion, and the seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter, from the latter.
2. The pivot on which a wheel turns is called its axis. The earth is imagined to have such an axis, or point of revolution, the ends of which are called the poles. The path of the earth, in its annual revolution, is called its orbit. The surface of the earth, with its burden of continents and seas, moves, at the equator, at the rate of about 1000 miles an hour, in its diurnal revolution; and in its orbit, the whole globe flies along at the rate of 1000 miles a minute.
3. The magnitude of the earth is found to be 25,000 miles in circumference, and 8000 in diameter.
1. Globes and maps are the ordinary means for representing the earth's surface.
2. Artificial globes represent the forms of the continents and oceans, the divisions of states and nations, the position of mountains, course of rivers, and sites of towns and cities. They also present the poles, the equator, lines of latitude and longitude, the tropical lines, or boundaries of the zones, &c.
3. Maps are imitations of the representations upon artificial globes, given on a flat surface.
4. The bending lines in maps are designed to represent the globular form of the earth. Maps may be general, giving the whole globe in two parts, or halves. These are called hemispheres. On a map of the Western Hemisphere, we find the continent of America: on a map of the Eastern Hemisphere, we find Europe, Asia, Africa, &c. Maps may be particular, giving only a portion of the surface of the earth, as Europe or America, or the United States, or the state of New York, &c. A map of a city or town is called a plan.
5. The top of a map is always north, the right hand east, the bottom south, and the left hand west.
1. The lines on an artificial globe represent the equator, longitude, latitude, the tropics, &c.
2. The equator is an imaginary line drawn round the middle of the earth, thus dividing it into two equal parts or hemispheres. This line is, at all points, just 90 degrees, or about 6250 miles, from each of the poles.
3. The line marked tropic of Cancer is 23 1/2 degrees, or about 1637 miles, north of the equator. The line marked tropic of Capricorn is the same distance south of the equator.
4. The Arctic circle is 23½ degrees from the north pole. The Antartic circle is the same distance from the south pole.
5. The latitude of a place is its distance from the equator. This is measured by degrees, each degree being 60 geographical miles, or 69¼ common miles. The lines of latitude run east and west, and are parallel to each other. Places north of the equator are in north latitude; places south of it are in south latitude. The degrees of latitude are numbered on the sides of a map.
proved? 5. What of the air?—composition of the earth? 6. What is gravitation?
LESSON III. 1. What two motions has the earth? What of the planets, and other heavenly bodies? What effect has the diurnal motion?—the annual? 2. What are the poles? What is the orbit? How rapidly does the surface of the earth move in its diurnal revolution? What of its annual revolution? 3. What is the magnitude of the earth?
LESSON IV. 1. What of globes and maps? 2. What of artificial globes? 3. What are maps? 4. What of the bending lines on maps? What of general maps? What do we find on a map of the Western Hemisphere? On the Eastern? What of particular maps? 5. What of the top of a map?—the right hand, &c.?
LESSON V. 1. What do the lines on an artificial globe represent? 2. What is the equator? 3. What of the tropic of Cancer?—tropic of Capricorn? 4. What of the Arctic circle?—the Antarctic? 5. What of latitude? 6. Longitude? 7. From what point is longitude reckoned? 8. What of the degrees of longitude?
[begin surface 180]6. Longitude is the distance of a place east or west from the point of reckoning.
7. The common point of beginning to reckon longitude is Greenwich, near London, in England; though most of our maps also reckon from Washington, the capital of the United States.
8. The degrees of longitude, on globe maps, are marked at the equator, and are there the same as the degrees of latitude; but, as we go north or south, the meridians approach each other, and unite at the poles. One hundred and eighty degrees of longitude go half round the world. If the numbers increase to the east, they denote east longitude: if toward the west, they denote west longitude.
1. The earth is divided into five belts, or zones. 2. The torrid or hot zone lies between the northern and southern limits of the tropics; the two temperate zones lie, one north of the tropic of Cancer, and one south of the tropic of Capricorn; the two frigid zones lie, one north of the Arctic circle, and the other south of the Antarctic circle.
3. The torrid zone is about 3243 miles wide, and extends like a broad belt around the whole earth. It derives its name from the great heat which prevails here, at all times. 4. There is never snow or frost here. The climate, or general character of the weather, is always warm; and instead of the seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter, there are but two seasons, the wet and the dry. The wet season is called winter, and the dry season, summer.
5. The vegetation in the tropical regions is generally luxuriant. Fine fruits—such as oranges, lemons, pine-apples, cocoa-nuts, and rich melons—abound; and often the ripe fruit and opening blossom hang side by side, on the same tree. There are also delicious spices—as cinnamon, pepper, cloves, and nutmegs; with other choice productions—such as coffee, sugar, indigo, &c.
Scene in the Torrid Zone.6. Though thus favored by nature, these regions are subject to terrific whirlwinds, desolating earthquakes, and deadly fevers; while they are the abode of millions of tormenting insects and
LESSON VI. 1. Into what zones, or belts, is the earth divided? 2. What of the five zones? 3. What of the torrid zone? 4. Its climate? 5. Vegetation? 6. Convulsions of nature? Animal life? Inhabitants? 7. What of the temperate zones? 8. Fruits in
[begin surface 181]poisonous reptiles. Here also is the home of the lion and tiger, the giraffe and hippopotamus, the anaconda and the crocodile, the rhinoceros and the elephant.—the giants and wonders of the animal kingdom. The inhabitants of the torrid zone are generally black, or of a dark color. They are, for the most part, indolent and live in slightly-built dwellings.
7. In the temperate zones, the climate is mild, and here are the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter.
Scene in a Temperate Zone.8. The fruits in these zones are grapes, apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, strawberries, &c. The chief vegetable productions are wheat, rye, oats, barley, and maize or Indian corn. In the warm parts, rice and cotton are produced. We here see the ox, horse, ass, camel, sheep, goat, and hog, in a state of domestication; and in the forests, instead of the gigantic rhinoceros and elephant, are the wild boar, wolf, buffalo, elk, deer, fox, and lynx.
9. In the temperate zones, the people have, generally, a light or white skin. In the northern temperate zone, they are marked by industry, intelligence, and energy. Here are the chief seats of human improvement and civilization. Here the people are generally well clad, and, for the most part, live in substantial and comfortable houses.
10. The northern and southern zones are called frigid, from the intense cold which prevails there for the greater part of the year.
11. The southern frigid regions are little known; though it appears that, around the south pole, there is either a continent or a group of numerous islands. The land here is uninhabited, and always covered with snow and ice. The northern frigid regions are better known.
12. There are but two seasons here—a winter of nine months, and a summer of three. Vegetation is confined to mosses, and a few stunted trees, shrubs, and grasses. None but the hardiest animals, such as the reindeer, white bear, musk ox, and a few others, find subsistence in these icy regions. The inhabitants are few in number, of low stature and swarthy complexion, and find their chief subsistence, along the shores of the frozen seas, upon seals, whales, and other marine animals. The Aurora Borealis, or Northern Light, is here seen in the greatest splendor.
the temperate zone? Vegetation? Animals? 9. Inhabitants? 10. What of the two frigid zones? 11. The southern?—the northern? 12. Vegetation? Animals? Inhabitants? What of the Aurora Borealis?1. A continent is a great mass of land, not entirely divided by water.
2. There are two continents—the Western, including North and South America; and the Eastern, including Europe, Africa, and Asia. Recent discoveries have led to the supposition that there is a continent around the south pole, which has received the name of the Antarctic Continent.
3. The Grand Divisions of the Eastern Continent are Europe, Africa, and Asia; those of the Western Continent are North and South America. The islands of the Pacific are included under the name of Oceanica.
The continents are often spoken of as divided into countries: thus Europe has several countries; America has several countries; Asia has several countries, &c.
4. An island is a body of land smaller than a continent, surrounded by water. New Holland, New Guinea, Borneo, and Madagascar, are islands.
5. A peninsula is any portion of land, connected by an isthmus to the main land. South America is a great peninsula, attached to this continent by the Isthmus of Darien: Africa is also a peninsula, attached to the eastern continent by the Isthmus of Suez.
6. A cape is a point of land projecting into water. A high or rocky projection into the sea is called a promontory. The south point of America is called Cape Horn; that of Africa is called Good Hope. 7. A mountain is a great elevation of land; a hill is a smaller elevation of land; a valley is a depression between hills or mountains; a plain is a space of level, or nearly level, land.
8. A mountain usually consists of several rugged and rocky elevations. Several mountains connected together are called a range or chain of mountains. The great range in South America is called the Andes.
9. Volcanoes are mountains, which send forth fire, smoke, and melted stones, called lava.
10. The mouth from which these things issue is a kind of chimney, and is called the crater.
11. Many of the mountains in America, near the equator, are volcanoes.
12. A coast, or shore, is the land bordering upon a lake or the sea. The borders of rivers are called banks.
13. A desert is a barren tract of land, usually consisting of sand. The Desert of Sahara, in Africa, is 2000 miles long, and travelers are sometimes overwhelmed by the drifting clouds of sand. A fertile spot in a desert is called an oasis.
14. The natural meadows of the west are called prairies. Plains of this kind are called pampas in South America, and steppes in Asia.
1. There is a great body of salt water surrounding the globe, called the ocean. It covers nearly three- fourths of the surface of the earth. Different portions of this universal sea have received different names.
2. That vast sheet which lies between America on the west, and Europe and Africa on the east, is called the Atlantic Ocean.
3. That which lies between America on the east, and Asia on the west, is called the Pacific.
4. That ocean which lies south of Asia, and between New Holland and Africa, is called the Indian Ocean.
5. The ocean around the north pole is called the Northern or Arctic Ocean, that which lies around the south pole is called the Southern or Antarctic Ocean.
6. A sea is a portion of the ocean nearly inclosed by land, as the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, &c. An archipelago is a sea nearly filled with islands. A bay is a part of a sea or lake extending into the land, as the Bay of Bengal. Large bays are called gulfs, as the Gulf of Mexico.
LESSON VII. 1. What is a continent? 2. What of the two continents? The Antarctic continent? 3. Grand divisions of the eastern continent? The Western? Islands of the Pacific? How are the continents subdivided? 4. What is an island? Examples? 5. What is a peninsula? Examples? 6. What is a cape? Examples? A promontory? 7. What is a mountain? A valley? A plain? 8. What is a range or chain of mountains? Example? 9. What of volcanoes? 10. What is a crater? 12. What is a coast or shore? Borders of rivers? 13. What is a desert? Example? What is an oasis? 14. What of prairies? Plains? Steppes?
LESSON VIII. 1. What is the ocean? What of different parts of the ocean? 2. What of the Pacific? 3. The Atlantic? 4. The Indian? 5. The Arctic? The Antarctic? 6. What is a sea? Examples? An archipelago? A bay? A gulf? 8. A
[begin surface 183]7. Small sheltered bays are called harbors, or ports.
8. A road, or roadstead, for ships, is a part of the open sea, where vessels may ride at anchor in safety. A strait is a narrow passage connecting two bodies of water, as Behring's Strait, the Strait of Gibralter, &c. A channel is a wider passage of a similar kind, as the British Channel. A passage so shallow as to be fathomed by the sounding-line of a ship is called a sound.
9. A lake is a large sheet of fresh water inclosed by land, as Lake Superior. Small lakes are often called ponds, in our country.
10. A river is a large stream of water, as the Mississippi, the Amazon, the Nile, &c. Small streams of water are called brooks, creeks, rivulets, rills, &c.
11. The basin of a river consists of the country from which the water is derived. A great river is usually supplied by many streams, all collecting their water from the slopes which constitute its basin. The land bordering on a river is called its banks, as already stated. The right bank is that on the right side as you descend the stream; the opposite bank is the left.
12. A river which passes swiftly over rocky obstructions is called rapids. When the body of a river pitches over a precipice, it is called a cataract, fall, or cascade. The mouth of a river is its entrance into the sea or other water. When a river enters by several mouths, the land is called delta, from its resemblance, in shape, to the Greek letter of that name.
13. A frith or estuary is the mouth of a river affected by the rising and falling of the tide. A canal is an artificial ditch filled with water, for the passage of boats.
14. We may remark that while rivers, animals, trees, plants, and cities are found on the land, water is the abode of an infinite variety of fishes, from the size of the whale to that of the minnow. The sea, also, has a varied and peculiar vegetation.
1. Geographical topics are frequently viewed under a division into physical and political.
2. In looking round upon the earth, we notice that the mountains and valleys, the lakes, seas, and oceans, are the works of God, or Nature. We observe that cities, roads, ships, are made by men, united into political societies. Geography is, therefore, divided into two parts—natural or physical geography, which describes the works of nature; and political geography, which describes the works and institutions of men in their social capacity.
3. Physical geography describes the soil, climate, mountains, rivers, and seas, of different countries. Political geography describes the people of different countries, their condition, and their works. It describes their government, religion, degree of civilization, modes of building, dress, and traveling; their roads, railroads, canals, towns, cities, and villages; their trade and commerce; their manufactures, agriculture, and other industrial occupations.
4. The earth was created by God to be the abode of myriads of happy creatures, but more especially to be the theater upon which Man is to prepare for a future and immortal existence.
5. The various objects on the earth are divided, by naturalists, into three classes, or kingdoms: the mineral, including the soils, rocks, waters, and all unorganized substances; the vegetable, including trees, plants, and shrubs; and the animal, including all beings which live, feel, and move.
6. Vegetables draw their subsistence from the mineral kingdom, and thus prepare food for animals. Man stands at the head of the animal creation, and freely makes use of all he finds on the earth, that may contribute to his happiness. This privilege is given him by his Creator, and he enforces it by his superior skill and wisdom.
7. Animals are endowed with instincts, which guide them in the pursuit of happiness; but man must reach his maturity and perfection by means of education. Uneducated man is a savage.
roadstead? A strait? Example? A channel? A sound? 9. A lake? A pond? 10. What is a river? Brooks, &c.? 11. What of the basin of a river? How is a river supplied? The banks of a river? 12. What are rapids? Cataracts, &c.? The mouth of a river? What is a delta? 13. What is a frith? A canal? 14. What of animals and vegetables upon the land and in the sea?
LESSON IX. 1. How are geographical topics divided? 2. What of the works of nature, and those of man? 3. What does physical geography describe? Political geography? 4. For what was the earth created by God? 5. Into what three classes are the objects upon the earth divided? 6. What of vegetables? What of man? 7. What of man and animals, as to instinct and education? 8, 9. Illustrate
[begin surface 184]8. A chicken will run about, and pick up seeds, when a day old; a duck will swim as soon as hatched; a calf, or lamb, will walk about and take its milk from the mother, without help or instruction; in twelve hours after its birth.
9. But an infant is the most helpless of beings. It must be taught to eat, to drink, to walk. Without education, man grows up rude and cruel; with it, he may become an enlightened being, acquainted with many sciences, and familiar with his duty here on earth, and his high destiny hereafter.
10. Mankind are found in various stages of cultivation. Some live chiefly by hunting, and are called savage; some have partially emerged from the savage state, and are called barbarous; and some, having good houses, cities, written laws, and many good institutions, are called refined, enlightened, or civilized.
1. The surface of the earth is occupied by different nations, and these are found in very different conditions as to government; some adopting one kind, and some another.
2. A monarchy is a government conducted by one man, as a king, emperor, or military chieftain. If the government is limited by law, it is called a limited or constitutional monarchy, like that of England; if not, it is called a despotic or absolute monarchy, like that of Russia.
3. An aristocracy is a government conducted by a few leading persons, called nobles. A democracy is a government in which the power is in the hands of the people at large. A republic is a state in which the government is conducted by persons chosen by the people as their agents or representatives. The United States, Mexico, &c. are republics.
4. The country of a king is usually called a kingdom; that of an emperor, an empire. Duchies, principalities, &c., are small governments in the hands of dukes, princes, &c. A patriarchal government is one in which an aged man rules, as a father over a family. Among savage tribes, the bravest warrior, or the wisest man in council, usually has a controlling influence, even though there is no regular system, or form, of government.
5. Most well-governed countries are subdivided into districts, or counties, to aid in administering justice.
6. In most countries, also, there are towns, or cities; and these have what is called a municipal government. Cities have governments, at the head of which is a Mayor, assisted by Aldermen, Common Council, &c. The seat of the government of a country is called its capital. Thus, Washington is the capital of the United States; London, of Great Britain; and Paris, of France.
1. All nations have some religious notions, and few or none are without a general belief in rewards and punishments, bestowed by an overruling Deity, or Providence.
2. The ideas of mankind are, however, very much diversified as to the character of the Deity, and the modes of doing him
this subject by examples. 10. Into what states or stages is human society divided? What of the savage state? The barbarous state? The civilized state? LESSON X. 1. What of different nations? 2. What is a monarchy? A limited monarchy? A despotic monarchy? 3. What is an aristocracy? A democracy? A republic? 4. What is a kingdom? An empire? What are duchies, &c? A patriarchal government? 5. What of districts? 6. Towns, cities, &.? What of the government of cities? The seat of government of a country? Examples?
LESSON XI. 1. What of all nations in respect to religion?
[begin surface 185]homage. The belief in Christianity prevails in Europe, and is embraced by about one-quarter of the human race.
3. Christians are divided into Roman Catholics, Greek Catholics, Episcopalians, or those who belong to the English Church, Congregationalists, Lutherans, Presbyterians, Baptists, Methodists, Universalists, Friends, or Quakers, Moravians, &c. Christian places of worship are called churches or meeting-houses.
4. The Jews are the descendants of the ancient inhabitants of Judea. They believe the Old Testament, and maintain the ancient worship of their fathers, but reject the New Testament, and Christianity. Their places of worship are called synagogues.
5. The Mahometans, or Mussulmans, are believers in Mahomet, an Arabian, who pretended to bring a revelation from heaven, called the Koran. This religion predominates in Turkey in Europe, and the western part of Asia. It is also scattered over other parts of Asia, and portions of Africa. Mahometan places of worship are called mosques.
6. The Bramins and Buddhists, or worshipers of the Grand Lama, believe in a deity who holds communion with mankind through many inferior divinities, some of whom are good, and some bad. Of these they have images and idols, which they worship in temples, called pagodas. These religions prevail in the eastern part of Asia.
7. Many ignorant and savage tribes, called pagans, believe in fetishes, or good and bad spirits, which dwell in particular places. They also put faith in idols and amulets. To their gods they pay a kind of worship, which often consists in dances, sacrifices, and other uncouth rites, designed to propitiate them.
8. Christians maintain that all other religions than their own, are untrue; and if we compare the state of society in Christendom with that in other parts of the earth, we shall see that, while Christianity tends to enlighten and elevate the mind, all the heathen religions debase and degrade it.
1. Most of the animal tribes, as quadrupeds, birds, fishes, insects, &c., live on the spontaneous products of nature.
2. These have hair, or feathers, or scales, for clothing. They dwell in the open air, or in the water, without shelter, or in rude and inartificial houses and homes.
A Manufactory.3. It is otherwise with mankind. They are born naked, and must have artificial clothing. They must have various kinds of food, mostly prepared by cookery; and finally, they must have well-constructed houses.
4. In a savage state, the wants of man are few, and he lives almost like a beast; but as he grows more refined, his wants are multiplied, and, to supply them, he becomes a thinking, contriving, industrious being. Thus the desires of man are the sources of his improvement.
5. In this state of society, some men devote themselves to agriculture; that is, they till the land, and are called farmers, or husbandmen. To the labor of the farmer we are indebted for wheat, rye, and other grains, which are made into bread, and for meat, milk, and the flax, wool, and cotton of which our clothing is made.
6. Some persons devote themselves to the making of shoes, clothes, hats, and other articles: these are
2. The diversity of ideas on this subject? Christianity? 3. How are Christians divided? What are Christian places of worship called? 4. What are the Jews? In what do they believe? Their places of worship? 5. What are Mahometans? 6. What of Bramins and Buddhists? 7. Pagans? 8. What do Christians maintain?
LESSON XII. 1. How do the animal tribes live? 2. Their clothing? Where do they dwell? 3. What of man? I. What of his wants in a savage state? In a refined state? 5. What of agriculture? 6. What are manufacturers? Mechanics? 7. Trade and commerce? 8. What are the advantages of commerce? 9 What of
called manufacturers. Many men learn trades, such as that of the mason, carpenter, blacksmith, &c.: these are called mechanics.
7. Some persons buy and sell different kinds of useful articles. The common business of buying and selling is called trade; that trade which is carried on in ships, or vessels, is called commerce.
8. It is by means of commerce that the products of one country are carried to other countries. By means of commerce, we get tea from China, pepper from Sumatra, coffee from Java, sugar from the West Indies, oranges and lemons from Portugal, figs from Smyrna, silks from France, &c. We give, in exchange for these articles, the products of our own industry.
9. Many persons devote themselves to mining, for the purpose of obtaining coal, iron, tin, copper, gold, and silver; others become fishermen; others huntsmen; others, again, fell trees, for timber.
10. One of the principal occupations of society, in all ages of the world, has been that of war.
11. The profession of the soldier has generally taken precedence of the industrial and productive occupations. Mankind have at last learned, however, that war is generally destructive to the best interests of the people at large, and hence, there is a growing love of peace among all intelligent nations.
12. The productions of a country form an important topic of geography. These are either vegetable, mineral, or animal.
13. The most important vegetable products are wheat, corn, rye, rice, potatoes, cotton, trees for building, medicinal plants, &c. The most important minerals are coal, lead, iron, tin, silver, and gold. The most useful domestic animals are the horse, cow, and sheep. In some countries, the goat and ass are very useful, and in others, the camel and elephant supply the place of the horse.
1. There are many different languages in the world, and even different letters and alphabets.
2. All the languages of Europe have the same letters as our own, except the Greek and Turkish. The following are specimens of some of the principal European languages, given in the first line of the Lord's prayer:—
3. In all these languages, the same letters are used: the numeral signs are also the same. As to numbers, they form a universal language for Europe and America: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, &c., though called by different names, convey the same ideas throughout those countries.
4. There are about eighty original languages in the world, with more than three thousand dialects, or branches.
5. The English language, spoken by us, as well as by the people of Great Britain, is the most extensively used of any European tongue; the German is next; the French next; the Italian next; and the Spanish next.
6. The books published in these languages are numerous, and embrace all kinds of literature; as science, law, religion, history, tales, poetry, &c. In these languages, there are newspapers and journals, which rapidly spread intelligence among the people.
7. The rudest tribes of men have language; but many tongues are never used in writing, or in books. The number of dialects among the different American tribes was nearly two thousand; but they all had a general resemblance.
8. There are many books in the Chinese, Persian, and Arabic languages, but they are far inferior to those of Europe.
mining? Fishermen? Huntsmen, &c.? 10. What of war? 11. The soldier? War? Peace? 12. The productions of a country? 13. The most important vegetable productions?—minerals?—animals?
LESSON XIII 1. What of language? 2. The languages of Europe? 3. What of letters and numerals in these languages? 4. How many original languages are there? How many dialects? 5. What of the English language? Other languages? 6. What of books and newspapers? 7. The languages of rude tribes? 8. The Chinese, &c.?
31. Grand Divisions—The surface of the globe is viewed by geographers under five grand divisions.
2. Extent and Population.—It is supposed to contain 200,000,000 square miles; 50,000,000 of which are land, and 150,000,000 water. The whole number of inhabitants upon the globe is estimated at 1,000,000,000 distributed as follows:
This table lists the extent in square miles and populations of America, Europe, Africa, Asia, and Oceanica, and includes the extent in square miles of the following oceans: Northern, Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, and Southern.3. Maps.—These are usually so drawn, that the Western Hemisphere contains the American continent, and the Eastern Hemisphere the eastern continent, embracing Europe, Africa, and Asia.
4. Distribution of Land.—In looking at maps of the Eastern and Western Hemispheres, it is obvious that by far the larger portion of the land on the globe lies north of the equator, or in the Northern Hemisphere.
5. All North America, the West Indies, a portion of South America, all Europe, Asia, and nearly all Africa, lie in the Northern Hemisphere.
6. The greater part of South America, a small portion of Africa, and the great island of Australia, lie in the Southern Hemisphere.
7. Antarctic Continent.—Land has also been discovered in about latitude 68° south, which has led to the opinion that a large mass extends around the south pole, to which the title of the Antarctic Continent has been given.
8. Population South of the Equator.—In general, it may be stated that not more than 40,000,000 people—that is, not more than one-twentieth of the population of the globe—live south of the equator.
1. Antiquity of the Earth.—By examining the surface of the earth, geologists have come to the conclusion that the globe on which we live has existed for many thousands of years. It appears to have undergone many revolutions, during which there have been several successive creations, by which the whole animal and mineral kingdoms have been changed.
2. Mosaic Creation.—But that creation of which the Bible tells us, when the present continents and oceans were formed, and when the present races of animals, with Man himself, were made by God, took place nearly 6,000 years ago.
3. Earth prepared for Man.—Previous to this time, no human beings had existed on the earth. Various kinds of animals had lived and perished; vegetation had overspread the face of nature; but, as yet, there had been no tenant of the globe endowed with intelligence sufficient to understand and appreciate the ways of Providence: but at last the earth was fitted and prepared to be the abode of man.
4. Adam and Eve.—And now God created Adam and Eve. At this point of time, the history of the human race begins. We are entirely indebted to the first books of the Old Testament for an account of the creation, and the history of the world for 2000 years after that event. The
LESSON XIV. 1. How is the surface of the globe viewed by geographers? 2. Its extent? Population of the globe? Extent and population of America? Europe? Africa? Asia? Oceanica? Extent of the Northern Ocean?—Pacific, &c.? 3. How are maps usually drawn? 4. On which side of the equator is the largest mass of land? 5. What portions of land lie in the Northern Hemisphere? 6. In the Southern? 7. What of the Antarctic Continent? 8. What of population south of the equator?
LESSON XV. 1. To what conclusion have geologists come? 2. What of that creation of which the Bible tells us? 3. What of the time previous to the creation? 4. With what event does the history of the human race begin? For what are we indebted to the
[begin surface 196]history of subsequent ages is made up from inscriptions upon monuments, the remains of sculpture, and from manuscripts, and documents of various kinds.
5. Cain and Abel.—The Bible informs us that Adam and Eve had several children; the first of whom was Cain, and the next Abel. These quarreled, and Cain killed his brother: a terrible event, foreshadowing that strife which, in all ages, has filled the history of mankind with records of battle and bloodshed.
6. The Deluge.—The place where Adam and his immediate descendants lived, was in the western part of Asia, where the climate was warm, and the soil fruitful; and as many of them lived to the age of eight or nine hundred years, they increased rapidly, and built large and populous cities. But they became very wicked, and the race was cut off by a Deluge, or Flood, 2348 years before Christ, or 1656 years after the creation.
7. Noah—Babel.—Noah and his family, with pairs of the various animals, were saved in an Ark, which he built by command of God. These persons settled in the valley of the Euphrates, and their descendants began to build a tower, called Babel, which should reach to the skies. But they were punished for their vanity, for, in the midst of their work, their language was confounded, so that the workmen could not understand each other. This event, called the Confusion of Tongues, took place 2247 years before Christ.
1. Emigration.—At this very early period, various bands of emigrants left the valley of the Euphrates, and settled in different parts of Asia. Some also proceeded to Africa, and founded the kingdom of Egypt, 2188 B. C.
2. After several centuries, other companies established themselves in Europe; still later, various tribes found their way to the islands of the Pacific, and at last to America. Thus the Five Grand Divisions of the earth were peopled by the descendants of Adam and Eve.
3. Varieties among mankind.—At the present time, we find mankind not only differing in government, religion, manners, and customs, but also in personal appearance, in intelligence, character, and language. These varieties are supposed to be the result of difference in climate, food, government, and modes of life.
4. Assyria.—Although large numbers of people emigrated from the valley of the Euphrates, it appears that multitudes remained, and here the first great empire began, 2229 B. C. This was called ASSYRIA, and its capital bore the name of Nineveh. The latter became a mighty city, with at least half a million of inhabitants; but it is now a heap of ruins—its houses, temples, and palaces being buried beneath the soil.
5. Babylon.—Babylon was another great city, founded in these ancient times, and at no great distance from Nineveh. It became the most splendid city in the world, and is often mentioned in the Bible. This, too, has perished. Where kings, and queens, and princes once dwelt, the wolf and the jackal, the owl and the bat, find a secure retreat.
6. Origin and Progress of Civilization.—It appears that civilization had thus its beginning in Western Asia. Here mankind first formed society, and organized government, and made progress in the arts and sciences. At no distant day, Egypt became the most enlightened, cultivated, and civilized country in the world. At a later period, the arts and sciences passed into Europe, where they were carried to a higher pitch than they had been before. America was discovered at a later date, and hither European civilization was gradually transplanted.
Bible? How is the history of subsequent ages made up? 5. What of Cain and Abel? 6. Where did the descendants of Adam live? Why did mankind increase rapidly? What did they build? Why were they destroyed by the deluge? 7. What of Noah and the ark? Where did Noah and his descendants settle? What of Babel? Where did the confusion of tongues take place?
LESSON XVI. 1. What of emigration from the valley of the Euphrates? 2. What division of the world was settled next to Africa? 3. What do we find at the present time? What are supposed to be the causes of the differences in character, intelligence, language, &c., between different nations and tribes? 4. Where did the first next empire begin? What of Assyria?—Nineveh? 5. Babylon? 6. Where did civilization begin? What did mankind first do in Western Asia? What of Egypt? What of Europe?—America?
1. Extent.—This hemisphere contains the Continent of America, with a portion of the Atlantic Ocean on the east, and of the Pacific on the west.
2. America.—This is supposed to be separated from Greenland and the land to the north, by the Arctic seas, and, therefore, to be entirely surrounded by several oceans. The Atlantic washes it on the east, and the Pacific on the west.
3. Length and Width.—The length of the American continent is about nine thousand miles. Its width is very unequal, varying from forty to three thousand miles. From the United States to Europe, across the Atlantic, it is about three thousand miles; to Asia, across the Pacific, it is about ten thousand miles. The eastern and western continents come near together at Behring's Strait, which is about forty miles wide, at the narrowest point.
4. Characteristics.—America is distinguished for its vast lakes, its mighty rivers, and the longest chain of mountains in the world. The latter extends from Cape Horn to the Arctic circle, and is nine thousand miles in length. The two chief rivers are the Mississippi and the Amazon. The largest lake is Lake Superior.
5. Divisions.—The American continent is nearly divided, by the Gulf of Mexico, into North and South America. The Isthmus of Darien, which unites the great peninsula of South America to the northern part of the continent, is but about 40 miles wide, at the narrowest part.
6. Climate—Products.—America extends through all the zones, and furnishes a great variety of vegetable and animal products. It also affords rich mines of gold, silver, diamonds, lead, iron, &c.
7. Domestic Animals, &c.—The horse, ox, sheep, goat, domestic cat, hen, &c., were not originally found in America, but were introduced by the Europeans. The potato, tobacco, and some other plants, were unknown till found on this continent; but wheat, rye, oats, barley, apples, pears, peaches, and many other things, were first brought hither by the white settlers.
8. History—The Northmen.—About the year 1000 A. D., America appears to have been discovered by some people from Iceland, descendants of the Northmen. They made settlements upon the coast, but soon left the country, and nothing was generally known of their adventures.
9. Columbus' First Discovery.—About 500 years after this, Christopher Columbus sailed, under the patronage of the king and queen of Spain, to make discoveries in the Atlantic. In October, 1492, he came in sight of one of the West India Islands. He afterwards visited Cuba and Hayti, and then returned to Spain, carrying the intelligence of his adventures. Thus the people of Europe gained their first knowledge of the Western Continent, to which they gave the name of the New World.
10. The Continent Explored.—Columbus made several voyages to America, and other navigators followed, so that the eastern coasts of the whole continent were soon explored. In the year 1513, a Spaniard, by the name of Balboa, discovered the Pacific Ocean.
11. Division of the Territory.—The European nations soon took possession of North and South America. Spain seized upon the larger portion; Portugal acquired the vast country which now constitutes the empire of Brazil; England made settlements along the coast, from Georgia to Maine; and France took possession of Canada and the valley of the Mississippi.
12. Indians.—When America was discovered by Columbus, it was found to be inhabited by a peculiar race of people, who received the name of Indians. They were mostly in a savage state; but two great empires, Mexico and Peru, had made some advances in civilization. The Indians were subdued, and the white races became the ruling people throughout the continent.
LESSON XVII. 1. What does the Western Continent contain? 2. What of America? Boundaries? 3. Length of the American continent? Width? What of Behring's Strait? 4. For what is America distinguished? 5. What of the Gulf of Mexico? Isthmus of Darien? 6. Through what zones does America extend? Its vegetable, animal, and mineral products? 7. What of domestic animals? What of the potato, tobacco, &c.? What of wheat, rye, &c.? 8. What of the Northmen? 9. What of Christopher Columbus? When did he first discover one of the West Indian islands? 10. What immediately followed the first discovery of Columbus? 11. What did the European nations do? What of Spain? Portugal? England? France? 12. What of the original inhabitants of America? What change has taken place in the inhabitants of America?
How is America bounded on the north? East? South? West?
Where is Baffin's Bay? Hudson's Bay? Gulf of Mexico? Caribbean Sea? Behring's Straits? Where is Greenland? Newfoundland?
What cape forms the most eastern part of America? The most southern?
Where is the peninsula of Florida? Of Alaska?
What isthmus connects the peninsula of North America with South America?
Where is the Andes range of mountains? The Cordilleras? The Rocky Mountains?
Through what part of South America does the equator run?
What countries lie between the equator and the Tropic of Cancer?
What countries lie between the Tropic of Cancer and the Arctic Circle?
What countries lie between the equator and the Tropic of Capricorn? What between the Tropic of Cancer and the Antarctic Circle?
Extent of America? Population? The same of North America? South America?
What continent is embraced in the Eastern Hemisphere? What great island is in the Eastern Hemisphere?
What three grand divisions are embraced in the Eastern Continent? Boundaries of Europe? Asia? Africa?
Where is the Mediterranean Sea? Red Sea? Arabian Sea? Bay of Bengal?
What cape at the northern extremity of Europe? At the western point of Africa? At the southern point of Africa?
In what part of Asia are the Himmaleh mountains? Where is the desert of Cobi? Where is the great desert of Sahara?
By what isthmus is the great peninsula of Africa connected with the continent? What two peninsulas form the southern part of Asia?
Name the principal countries and islands which lie within the torrid zone.
Name the principal countries and islands which lie within the north temperate zone.
Name the principal countries and islands which lie within the south temperate zone.
Extent of Europe? Population? The same of Africa, Asia, &c.?
1. Comparative Extent and Population.—The Eastern Hemisphere contains nearly twice as much land as the Western, and nearly twenty times as many people. Its greatest length is about 6000 miles, and its greatest width about 6500.
2. Divisions.—The Eastern Continent is entirely surrounded by the ocean, being separated from America by Behring's Straits. It contains Europe, Asia, and Africa; also Australia, or New Holland, which is about as extensive as the United States, and is the largest island in the world.
3. Zones and Climates.—The whole of Europe, and the greater part of Asia, lie within the northern temperate zone. These countries have, for the most part, a mild climate: the northern portions are cold, and the southern warm.
4. Vegetation.—The vegetation of Europe and Asia is similar. The animals of Europe and Northern Asia are the same. In Southern Asia, there are lions, tigers, elephants, rhinoceroses, and other animals, common to hot regions.
5. Africa.—The greater part of Africa lies within the tropics, and here are the hottest portions of the globe. The country is remarkable for many curious animals, and a peculiar race of people, called Negroes.
6. New Holland lies near the equator, and has a mild climate, with vegetable and animal products not found elsewhere. Extensive gold mines were discovered in 1851.
7. History.—As we have already stated, the human race began their career in the Eastern Continent, and very near its center. By looking on the annexed map, it will be perceived that the place selected by Providence for the cradle of the human family was very peculiar.
8. Eden, &c.—It was on a territory about 1200 miles long, and 700 wide, inclosed between the Mediterranean Sea, the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, the Persian Gulf, the Caspian Sea, and the Black Sea, that the Garden of Eden, the first great Empires, and the principal places mentioned in the Bible, existed.
9. There is not another spot on the globe so favorable to the increase of mankind, and the rapid development of society and its various institutions, as this. It bordered upon the northern tropic, and the people had every possible advantage of climate.
10. It was encircled by no less than six seas and gulfs favorable to navigation. It was intersected by numerous streams, and teemed with all the diversified products of the vegetable, mineral, and animal kingdoms. It was the Eden of the World, and an omniscient Providence selected it as the paradise of the first human pair.
11. The East.—Even now, after ages of oppression, nature here still bears the traces of its original beauty. Under the title of The East, it is thus celebrated by the poet: "Know ye the land where the cypress and myrtle Are emblems of deeds that are done in their clime; Where the rage of the vulture, the love of the turtle, Now melt into sorrow, now madden to crime? Know ye the land of the cedar and vine? Where the flowers ever blossom, the beams ever shine; Where the light wings of Zephyr, oppressed with perfume, Wax faint o'er the gardens of Gall in her bloom; Where the citron and olive are fairest of fruit, And the voice of the nightingale never is mute; Where the tints of the earth, and the hues of the sky, In color though varied, in beauty may vie, And the purple of ocean is deepest in dye; Where the virgins are soft as the roses they twine, And all, save the spirit of Man, is divine? 'Tis the clime of the East—'tis the land of the Sun :— Can he smile on such deeds as his children have done?"
12. Emigration.—We have already remarked that, after the dispersion from Babel, the population seemed to flow in all directions—Asia being first settled, then Africa, and then Europe. The history of these several portions of the Eastern Continent will be given under their separate heads.
LESSON XX. 1. Comparative extent and population of the Eastern Hemisphere? 2. Divisions? 3. Zones and climates? 4. Vegetation of Europe and Asia? Animals? 5. Africa? 6. New Holland? 7. Where did the human race begin their career? What can you say of this particular spot? 8. Describe the territory where the first nations had their rise. What empires and places existed here? 9, 10. What were the favorable circumstances of this territory? What of Providence? 11. What of this region at the present time? Recite the descriptive lines of the poet. 12. What of emigration and population?
Boundaries of North America? Extent? Population? Population to square mile? Boundaries of Russian America? British America? United States? Mexico? Guatimala?
Describe the following islands; North Georgia Isle; Melville Island; Iceland; Greenland; Newfoundland; Cape Breton; Cuba.
Describe the following; Baffin's Bay; Davis' Straight; Hudson's Bay; Strait of Bellisle; Chesapeake Bay; Gulf of Mexico; Caribbean Sea; Gulf of California; Behring's Strait.
Describe the following mountains: Alleghany; Mexican Cordilleras; Rocky Mountains.
Describe the following lakes: Superior; Michigan; Great Slave, Great Bear; Winnipeg.
Describe the following peninsulas: Labrador; Florida; Yucatan; Old California; Alaska.
Describe the following rivers: Mississippi; St. Lawrence; Del Norte; Colorado; Mackenzie's.
Direction of the following from Washington; Lichtenfels; Quebec[illegible] Havana; Mexico; San Francisco; Russian Amer[illegible]
1. Characteristics.—The coasts of North America are very irregular, and are indented by vast gulfs and bays. It contains the largest lake, the longest river, the most sublime cataract, and the finest valley in the world.
2. Mountains.—The Mexican Cordilleras and the Rocky Mountains are one continuous chain. The loftiest peak of the former, Popocatepetl, in Mexico, is volcanic. It is continually burning, though for several centuries it has ejected from its crater only smoke and ashes.
3. Volcanoes.—Several other peaks of the Cordilleras are also volcanoes. Orizaba, the height of which is 17,370 feet, burns only at intervals. Jorullo, near Mexico, is of recent origin, having been first thrown up in 1759. This mountain ejects flame and ashes.
4. Rocky Mountains.—These run nearly north and south, from 200 to 700 miles distance from the Pacific. They cross the U. States, having the territories of California and Oregon on the west. The loftiest peak is Brown Mountain.
5. Pacific Range.—There is a broken and irregular range along the border of the Pacific, called Snowy Mountains. Mount Saint Elias is one of this range, and is the loftiest peak in North America.
6. Apalachian Chain.—This lies in the United States, and passes under various names, which will be noticed hereafter.
The following are the greatest heights of various ranges: This table lists the height of the highest peak in the following mountain ranges: Mexican Cordilleras, Rocky Mountains, White Mountains, and Snowy Mountains.
7. Valleys.—The two largest valleys in North America are those of the Mississippi and the St. Lawrence. The former is one of the most prolific regions on the globe.
8. Rivers.—The Mississippi, measuring from the source of the Missouri, which may be considered its head stream, is the longest river in the world. Several other rivers of North America are longer than any in Europe. This table lists the lengths of several North American Rivers including: the Mississippi, Missouri, Mackenzie's, St. Lawrence, Arkansas, Rio del Norte, Columbia, and Red rivers.
9. Lakes—Cataract.—North America is renowned for its great lakes. The largest, Lake Superior, is about one-third part as extensive as the kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. Between lakes Erie and Ontario is the sublime cataract of Niagara. This table lists the extent in square miles of the following lakes: Great Bear, Great Slave, Winnipeg, Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, and Ontario.
10. Islands.—Greenland is now ascertained to be an island. It is more than 1400 miles long, and is probably the largest island in the world, except New Holland; but we do not know how far it extends to the north. Iceland, lying near to Greenland, is considered as belonging to Europe, though it is much nearer to America, and physically belongs to this continent. This table includes the extent in square miles of the following islands: Greenland, Cuba, Newfoundland, Hayti and Vancouver's.
11. Climate and Vegetation.—North America embraces every climate, and contains a great variety of vegetable productions. It may be remarked that it is colder along the Atlantic coast, by about six degrees, than on the opposite shore, along the borders of Europe.
12. Animals and Minerals.—Among the principal native animals are the musk ox, white bear, and silver fox, of the polar regions. In the temperate parts are the bison, and several species of bear, deer, &c. In the southern portions are alligators, and a variety of poisonous serpents. Most kinds of minerals are also abundant in North America.
13. Political Divisions.—The northern portions of North America belong to Denmark, Russia, and Great Britain; the central portion to the United States; and the southern to various nations. The West Indies lie between North and South America, but we shall include them in our view of the former. This table lists the political divisions of North America, including Greenland, Danish America, Russian America, British America, United States, Mexico, Guatimala and West Indies.
14. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants of North America consist of the white descendants of different European nations, Negroes, Indians, and mixed races. The white races are everywhere the governing people, except among the wild tribes of Indians, and in the Island of Hayti, where the people are chiefly of African descent, and have an independent government. These races are thus distributed: This table includes the populations of races of North America.
15. History—English Discoveries.—South America was discovered by Columbus, in 1498, but North America was discovered the year previous, along the coast of Labrador, by John and Sebastian Cabot, two Italians sent out by the king of England, Henry VII. The next year, Sebastian discovered Virginia; and in 1517, he entered one of the straits which leads into Hudson's Bay.
16. Spanish Discoveries.—Ponce de Leon, a Spaniard, discovered Florida in 1512; Yucatan was discovered by Fernandez de Cordova, in 1517; and Mexico, by Grijalva, in 1518. De Soto discovered the Mississippi in 1542.
17. French Discoveries.—Verranzi, a Florentine, sent out by Francis I., touched along the coast, in 1524, from North Carolina to Rhode Island. He afterwards proceeded to Newfoundland, and explored its shores. In 1534–5, James Cartier entered the gulf and river St. Lawrence, giving them their present name. He passed up as far as Montreal, and took possession of the country in the name of the king of France.
18. Possessions of the French, English, and Spaniards.—These discoveries, with others which followed, became the foundation of the several claims of these nations to territories in North America.
LESSON XXI. 1. Characteristics of North America? 2. Mountains? 3. Volcanoes? 4. Rocky Mountains? 5. Pacific Range? 6. Apalachian Chain? 7. Valleys? 8. Rivers? 9. Lakes? Cataract? 10. Islands? 11. Climate and Vegetation? 12. Animals? Minerals? 13. Political Divisions? 14. Inhabitants? 15. English discoveries? 16. Spanish discoveries? 17. French Discoveries? 18. Possessions of the French, English, and Spaniards?
41. Characteristics.—The United States occupy the middle part of North America, and are remarkable as being the most enlightened and populous country in America, and the most powerful republic in the world.
2. Extent.—They extend about 2700 miles in length, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Their width, from north to south, is about 1400 miles.
3. Climate and Products.—Reaching through more than 20 degrees of latitude, the climate is greatly varied. In the northern parts, the winter is severe, and lasts six months of the year. Here the chief products are grain of various kinds, grass, apples, pears, &c. The people, driven to industry by the soil and climate, devote a large share of their attention to manufactures, commerce, and fisheries.
4. In the middle portions, wheat, Indian corn, tobacco, and various fruits, are cultivated with success. The sugar-maple flourishes, and thousands of pounds of maple sugar are annually produced. In the southern portions, the climate is hot, and tobacco, cotton, rice, oranges, figs, &c., abound.
5. Soil.—This is greatly diversified. Some portions are barren, but a large share of the land is highly prolific. The great valley of the Mississippi, as already stated, is one of the most fruitful regions on the face of the earth.
6. Mountains.—Two principal ranges of mountains cross the United States. The Apalachian chain extends from Georgia to Maine, and includes the Cumberland Mountains of Tennessee, the Alleghanies of Pennsylvania, the Catskills of New York, and the Green Mountain range of New England. The other great range is that of the Rocky Mountains. This table lists the height of the following United States mountain ranges: Rocky Mountains, White Mountains, Ozark, Peaks of Otter, Virginia, and Catskill.
7. Rivers.—The great rivers of the United States lie in the basin of the Mississippi. Those which flow into the Mississippi from the west have their sources in the Rocky Mountains; those which flow into it from the east have their sources in the Apalachian chain. In the various spurs and branches of the latter, the rivers which empty into the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico, also take their rise. This table lists the lengths of the following United States rivers: Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, Columbia.
8. Lakes.—The Great Lakes, which lie partly within the United States, form a grand feature of our continent, and present the extraordinary spectacle of inland seas of fresh water, sufficient in extent to become the theater of battles between hostile navies, and the scene of the most busy and thriving commerce. The shipping upon Lake Erie is now greater than that of the whole United States at the beginning of the Revolution.
9. Inhabitants—Language.—The population of the United States consists chiefly of whites, the descendants
LESSON XXII 1. Characteristics of the United States? 2. Extent? 3, 4. Climate and products? 5. Soil? 6. Mountains? Highest peaks? 7. Rivers? Length? 8. Lakes? 9. Inhabitants? Language? 10. Indians? 11. Government? 12.Sections?
[begin surface 204]of Europeans; the remainder are Indians and Negroes. The whites are chiefly of English descent, and the English language is nearly universal. The white settlements extend from the Atlantic to a considerable distance west of the Mississippi. The negroes are about three millions in number, and the larger part are slaves.
10. Indians.—The Indians are greatly reduced from their original population, and probably do not exceed four hundred thousand. There are few of them east of the Mississippi; but in the Western Territories they are numerous. Some of them have partly adopted the habits of civilized life, but many of them still make hunting and war their chief pursuits.
11. Government.—The government of the United States is a Federal Republic—that is, one general republic, formed of about thirty smaller republics.
12. Division into Four Sections.—Though the United States are generally viewed under four sections, as the Eastern, Middle, Western, and Southern, yet this is only an arrangement for the convenience of geographical description.
13. The Separate States.—Each of the United States is a republic, and has a distinct government, consisting of a Governor, Senate, and House of Representatives. These make local laws for the several states, and attend to their local interests. All the officers of the state and general governments are, directly or indirectly, chosen by the people.
14. Officers of the General Government.—The General Government of the United States consists of a President, Senate, and House of Representatives, who govern the United States, so far as their national interests are concerned.
15. Their Powers and Duties.—They manage affairs with foreign nations; make peace and war; control the army and navy; regulate commerce; sustain the post-office establishment, &c. The powers of the government are laid down in a document called the Federal Constitution, because it unites, or leagues, several distinct states, or republics, into one grand republic.
16. Religion.—All religions are tolerated in the United States, and every person is at liberty to worship God according to the dictates of his conscience. The most numerous persuasions are the Baptists, Methodists, Presbyterians, and Congregationalists. There are also many Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, Universalists, Lutherans, Moravians, &c., to which may now be added the new sect called Mormons.
17. Industrial Pursuits.—The leading occupation of the people of the United States is agriculture. The Southern and Western States are chiefly agricultural. The Middle States are largely concerned in agriculture, manufactures, and commerce. Manufactures and commerce form leading pursuits in New England, though agriculture and the fisheries are considerable sources of wealth.
18. Capital of the United States.—The seat of the general government is at Washington. This city is in the District of Columbia, between Maryland and Virginia. Congress, consisting of the Senate and House of Representatives, meets here every winter, to make laws.
19. Cities.—The following is a list of the chief cities of the United States, with their population: This table lists the populations of the following United States cities: New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Boston, New Orleans, Cincinnati, St. Louis, and Lowell.
20. Distances from Washington: This table lists the distance from Washington in miles of the following cities: New York, Augusta, New Orleans, Austin, Astoria, Quebec, Havana, and San Francisco.
21. Steam Navigation.—The great lakes and numerous rivers of this country afford immense advantages for internal navigation. Steam navigation, which was first practised in the United States, is carried to a higher degree of perfection here than elsewhere.
22. Internal Improvements.—Canals are numerous, and lines of railroad cross the country in every direction. The National Road, built by the general government, extends from Cumberland, in Maryland, westward, crossing the states of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana, to Missouri. Lines of magnetic telegraphs extend through the whole length of the country, from Maine to New Orleans.
23. Physical Sections.—From a general view of the United States, as presented by the large map, pages 28 and 29, we perceive that it is divided into three physical sections—the Atlantic Slope, the Pacific Slope, and the Great Central Valley of the Mississippi.
24. Atlantic Slope.—This is a narrow tract two or three hundred miles in width, having the Atlantic on the east, and the Apalachian chain on the west. Toward the sea, this territory is generally low and level; toward the mountains, it becomes elevated into hills and ridges. The whole tract is crossed by short rivers rising in the high lands, and pouring their waters into the Atlantic, or the Gulf of Mexico.
25. Pacific Slope.—This is bounded by the Pacific on the west, and the Rocky Mountains on the east. It is divided into two sections by a range of mountains running north and south, about 150 miles from the coast. The chief rivers of this region are the Colorado, which empties into the Gulf of California, with the San Joaquin, Sacramento, and Columbia, which empty into the Pacific.
26. The Mississippi Valley.—This contains nearly two-thirds of the territory of the United States; it is one of the most fertile tracts in the world, and is supposed to be capable of sustaining a population of 500,000,000. The whole of the Mississippi, the largest river in the world, lies within this valley, and four of its tributaries would be ranked among the largest streams in Europe.
27. Education.—This great instrument of human improvement is highly appreciated, and National Education is regarded, in all the states, as an object of the first consideration. In the single state of New York, there are nearly 11,000 common schools. At the same time, it may be remarked that colleges and higher seminaries are more numerous here than in any other country in the world.
28. Progressive Population.—The population of the United States doubles in about twenty-five years. In 1776, when our Declaration of Independence was made, we had three millions; in 1850, we had 23 millions; in 1900, we shall probably have 75 millions—a population beyond that of any other government, save that of China.
13. Separate states? 14. Officers of the general government? 15. Their powers and duties? 16. Religion? 17. Industrial pursuits? 18. Capital of the United States? 19. Cities? 20. Distances from Washington? 21. Steam Navigation? 22. Internal improvements? 23. What of three physical sections? 24. The Atlantic Slope? 25. The Pacific Slope? 26. Mississippi Valley? Mississippi River? 27. Education? 28. Progressive population?
[begin surface 205]☞The teacher will omit or extend these questions, according to his judgment.
Boundaries of the United States? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What mountains in the eastern part? What mountains in the western? What great river nearly in the centre of the United States? Latitude and longitude of Washington? How many degrees of latitude are occupied by the United States? How many degrees of longitude?
Capes.—Describe the following: Cape Cod; Cape Henry; Cape Charles; Cape Hatteras; Cape Lookout; Cape Fear; Cape Florida; Cape Conception; Cape Blanco; Cape Flattery.
Bays.—Describe the following bays: Delaware; Savannah; Apalachee; Pensacola; Burataria; Galveston; Matagorda; Santos; Monterey; San Francisco.
Mountains.—Where are the following mountains? Cumberland; Black; Blue Ridge; Alleghany; Green; Ozark; Rocky Mountains; Green; Spanish Peak; Black Hills; Fremont's Peak; Wahsatch; Mount Olympus; Mount Rainer; Snowy Range; Coast Range.
Lakes.—Where are the following? Superior; Michigan; Huron; Erie; Ontario; Great Salt.
Rivers.—Describe each of the following rivers: 1. THOSE WHICH FLOW INTO THE ATLANTIC—Kennebec; Connecticut; Hudson; Delaware; Potomac; James; Roanoke; Cape Fear; Savannah; Oconee; Ogechee; Oakmulgee.
2. THOSE WHICH FLOW INTO THE GULF OF MEXICO—Apalachicola; Black Warrior; Pascagoula; Pearl; Mississippi; Sabine; Trinity; Brazos; Colorado; Guadaloupe; Neuces; Rio Grande.
3. THOSE WHICH FLOW INTO THE MISSISSIPPI FROM THE EAST—Wisconsin; Rock; Illinois; Ohio; Yazoo.
FROM THE WEST—St. Peter's; Des Moines; Missouri; St. Francis; Arkansas; Red.
5. THOSE WHICH FLOW INTO THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA AND PACIFIC—Rio Colorado; Rio Gila; Rio de los Americanos; Sacramento; Columbia.
States.—Boundaries and capital of each of the following: Maine; New Hampshire; Vermont; Massachusetts; Connecticut; Rhode Island; New York; New Jersey; Pennsylvania; Delaware; Maryland; District of Columbia; Virginia; North Carolina; South Carolina; Georgia; Florida; Alabama, Mississippi; Louisiana; Texas; Michigan; Ohio; Indiana; Kentucky; Tennessee; Arkansas; Illinois; Missouri; Iowa; Wisconsin; California, (?)
Territories.—Boundaries of each of the following: Minesota; Nebraska; Missouri; Indian; Oregon; Utah, (?); New Mexico.
1. Origin of the United States.—The United States had their origin in thirteen English colonies, which combined, in 1775, against the mother country, and, after a war of eight years, achieved their independence. The first overt act of this war was the battle of Lexington—a skirmish between the people of Lexington and Concord, in Massachusetts, and the British troops stationed at Boston, who marched to these places to destroy some military stores. The war which followed, and the various acts connected with it, are called, in American history, the Revolution.
2. Discoveries and Settlements of the Northmen.—It is generally believed that about the year 1000 A. D., certain maritime adventurers from Norway and Sweden, called Northmen, discovered the coasts of North America, and made settlements in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. These were, however, abandoned after two or three years, and were never known in Europe, or were entirely forgotten, in the time of Columbus.
3. Modern Discoveries.—In the year 1498, Sebastian Cabot, an Italian, in the employ of England, discovered Virginia. In 1524, Verrazani, also an Italian, sent out by France, discovered the coast of North Carolina. Here he landed, and had some interviews with the natives. He landed also near New York and at Newport. In 1528, Narvaez, a Spaniard, discovered and took possession of Florida, in behalf of the king of Spain. The Hudson river was discovered in 1609, by Henry Hudson, an English navigator, sent hither by some Dutch speculators.
4. Settlements.—Various attempts were made to effect settlements in this quarter, but they all proved unsuccessful till 1607. At that time, about 100 persons arrived from England, and founded the colony of Virginia. This was the first English settlement within the present United States. New York was settled by the Dutch in 1614; Massachusetts by the Puritans, in 1620; Rhode Island by Roger Williams, in 1636; and Connecticut about the same time. Georgia, the last of the thirteen colonies, was settled in 1732. The particular history of each of these will be found under their several heads.
5. Foundation of the Settlements.—The foundation of these English settlements was a claim made by King James I. of England, founded upon the discoveries of Sebastian Cabot and others, to the whole territory from Halifax to Florida. The settlement of the Dutch at New York was deemed a violation of this right, and accordingly that colony was taken by the British in 1664, and remained in their possession, excepting for a short space in 1673.
6. The French and Indian War.—It will be remembered that the French had possessed themselves of the whole country from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Great Lakes. Their colonies here were very important, and they began to extend them southward, so as to occupy the great valley of the Mississippi. This roused the jealousy of the English, and in 1754 a war broke out, which was chiefly carried on along the boundary, between the French and English settlements. For several years, the contest was fierce and bloody. Both parties employed Indian warriors, who inflicted the most terrible barbarities upon the people along the northern borders of Maine, New Hampshire, and New York. Hundreds of villages were laid in ashes, and thousands were killed or carried into captivity. Many were subjected to the most cruel tortures.
7. Surrender of the French Colonies.—At length, in the year 1759, the English, under the command of Gen. Wolfe, scaled the rocky hights of Quebec at night, and the next day captured that city, after a bloody conflict with the French army. Soon after, the other portions of the country submitted, and, by the peace of 1763, the French possessions in North America were finally ceded to the British. Thus they became possessed of the greater part of that immense territory now called British America.
8. Causes of the Revolution.—About the year 1764, the British government began to impose severe and oppressive taxes upon the English colonies. The people remonstrated, and sent petitions both to the parliament and king, but without effect. As the people grew restless,
LESSON XXIII. 1. What of the origin of the United States? Battle of Lexington? The Revolution? 2. What of the discoveries and settlements of the Northmen? 3. More modern discoveries? 4. What of settlements? 5. Foundation of these settlements? 6. What of the old French and Indian war? 7. Surrender of the French colonies? 8. What of the causes of the Revolution? 9. What of throwing
[begin surface 207]OUR COUNTRY.—A cotemporary has discovered that the greatest cataract in the world is the Falls of Niagara, where the waters accumulate from the great upper lakes, forming a river three quarters of a mile in width, are suddenly contracted, and plunging over the rocks in two columns, to the depth of one hundred and sixty feet. The greatest cave in the world is the Mammoth Cave in Kentucky, where one can make a voyage on the waters of a substerranean river and catch fish without eyes. The greatest river in the world is the Mississippi, four thousand one hundred miles in length Its name is derived from an Indian word meaning "the father of waters." The largest valley in the world is the valley of the Mississippi. It contains five hundred thousand square miles, and is one of the most prolific regions on the globe. The largest lake in the world is Lake Superior, four hundred and thirty miles long. The greatest natural bridge in the world is that over Cedar Creek, in Virginia. It extends across a chasm eighty feet in width and two hundred and fifty feet deep, at the bottom of which a creek flows. The greatest solid mass of iron in the world is the iron mountain in Missouri. It is three hundred and fifty feet high, and two miles in circuit. The longest railroad in the world is the Central railroad of Illinois, which is seven hundred and thirty-one miles long—cost fifteen millions of dollars. The greatest number of miles of railroad, in proportion to its surface, of any country in the world is in Massachusetts, which has over one mile to every square mile of its area. The greatest number of clocks manufactured in the world is turned out by the small state of Connecticut. The largest number of whale ships in the world are sent out by Nantucket and New Bedford. The greatest grain port in the world is Chicago. The largest acqueduct in the world is the Croton acqueduct in New York. It is forty and a half miles long, and cost twelve and a half millions of dollars.
especially in Massachusetts, troops were sent over to keep them in order. In 1770, some of these being insulted in the streets of Boston, fired upon the populace, and killed and wounded several of them. The greatest excitement followed.
9. Throwing over the Tea, &c.—In 1773, the people being angry at the tax imposed upon tea, refused to let that article be landed from the British ships. In Boston, a party of men, disguised as Indians, went on board some vessels in the harbor, and emptied 340 chests into the water. The port of Boston was now closed by the British parliament. This act soon brought on a crisis. The assemblies of several of the colonies prepared for war, and a large British force in Boston, commanded by Gen. Gage, began to throw up fortifications, and prepare for defence.
10. Events of 1775.—On the 18th of April of this year, Gen. Gage dispatched 800 men to destroy some military stores at Concord, 16 miles from Boston. On their way, they met some of the people in arms at Lexington, fired upon them, and killed and wounded several. They then proceeded to Concord; but very soon the people began to fire upon them from behind the houses and fences along the road. They retreated, but 300 were killed and wounded. The news of this event, called the Battle of Lexington, spread rapidly over the country, and the people came thronging to the vicinity of Boston, where they soon amounted to several thousands. Taking possession of a hill in Charleston, on the night of the 16th of June, they threw up intrenchments, and the next morning boldly faced the British army in Boston. The latter speedily began an attack, and a fierce and bloody engagement followed. The Americans were at length obliged to retreat, for want of ammunition; but the British lost 1000 men in killed and wounded, while the American loss was less than half that number. Such was the famous Battle of Bunker Hill. Other interesting events speedily followed. Congress had assembled at Philadelphia, and now appointed George Washington commander of the American forces. He reached Cambridge, near Boston, the 12th July, where he found 14,000 Americans in arms, of whom he took the command.
11. Events of 1776.—In March, Washington got possession of Dorchester Heights, which commanded the city of Boston, together with the harbor. The British troops were accordingly forced to retire on the 17th June, taking with them 1500 American families, who were opposed to the revolution, and loyal to the king of England. On the 4th July, Congress made a formal Declaration of Independence, which was hailed with joy by the people at large. On the 27th August was fought the Battle of Long Island, in which the Americans were defeated, with the loss of 1000 men. In consequence, Washington was obliged to leave New York, which was immediately occupied by the British, and held by them till the close of the war. Toward the end of the year, the American cause seemed almost desperate; but the hopes of the country were revived by two brilliant victories in New Jersey, achieved by Washington, called the Battles of Trenton and Princeton.
12. Events of 1777.—At this period, the war raged over the whole country. On the 26th September, the British entered Philadelphia, after several severe battles. On the 8th October, Gen. Burgoyne, who was advancing from Canada, was compelled to surrender, with his whole army of 6000 men, to the American general, Gates, after obstinate engagements at Stillwater and Saratoga. This important victory revived the hopes of the country, and led other nations to expect the success of our arms.
13. Events of 1778.—In February of this year, France acknowledged the independence of the United States, and soon after sent troops and ships to our aid. On the 18th June, the British retreated from Philadelphia toward New York; but being overtaken by Washington at Monmouth, on the 28th, a severe engagement followed, in which the enemy suffered considerable loss.
14. Events of 1779.—During this year, the war was conducted on an extended scale. At the north, the British
over the tea at Boston? 10. Events of 1775? 11. Principal events of 1776? 12. Principal events of 1777? 13. Events of 1778?
[begin surface 209]troops were chiefly occupied in burning towns and villages, and other petty enterprises. At the south, in Georgia and Carolina, various actions took place, but none of a decisive character. The Indians in Western New York, called the Six Nations, having made themselves very troublesome, were attacked by Gen. Sullivan. Forty villages were burnt, and 150,000 bushels of corn were destroyed. By these means, these savages were reduced to a state of submission. The French fleet, under Count d'Estaing, made various movements at sea, but with no special advantage to the American cause. Spain declared war against Great Britain, and, united with France, made most formidable demonstrations against that country. The English, however, met the emergency with extraordinary energy, and seemed fully equal to the crisis.
15. Events of 1780.—This was a year of important and stirring occurrences. The British army was largely increased, and thus enabled to carry on its operations with great vigor. Gen. Clinton, leaving New York for the command of the southern army, laid siege to Charleston, defended by Gen. Lincoln, and captured that city, May 12th. The war in the south was actively sustained by bands of American patriots, under Sumter, Marion, and others; but defeat and disappointment attended our cause. At this gloomy period, Benedict Arnold, a general who had fought bravely in our service, having the command of a strong fort at West Point, on the Hudson river, turned traitor to his country, and sought to deliver it into the hands of the British. The plot was discovered, and Arnold fled. He received about 50,000 dollars and a General's commission from the British, for his treason; but shame and ignominy attended him ever after. Even the British hated and despised him. Major André, a brave young Englishman, who negotiated the business with Arnold, was taken and executed as a spy. On the whole, the year 1780 may be regarded as the gloomiest and most disheartening year of the Revolutionary War.
16. Events of 1781.—Early in this year, the prospects of our country brightened. Gen. Greene, at the head of our southern forces, performed a series of remarkable manœuvres, very annoying and destructive to the enemy. At last, Gen. Cornwallis, the British commander, moved northward, and took his station at Yorktown, in Virginia. Washington, with the northern army, suddenly marched southward, in conjunction with a large body of French troops. Cornwallis was speedily encompassed by these forces and the French fleet under the Count de Grasse. Thus hemmed in on all sides, the British general made a brave defence; but on the 19th October, finding his redoubts demolished, and every hope of retreat cut off, he surrendered with his whole army of 7000 men. This event was decisive of the war, for the British people had become weary of the contest, and the government felt the necessity of putting an end to a struggle which had cost them immense blood and treasure, and now offered little hope of success.
17. Events of 1782–3.—After the surrender of Cornwallis, there was little fighting on either side. In November, 1782, preliminary articles were signed at Paris between the agents of Great Britain and America; and on the 3d September of the same year, a definite treaty of peace was made between England, France, Spain, Holland, and the United States; the latter being now recognized as a free, sovereign, and independent nation.
18. The Constitution—1783 to 1789.—During the war, Congress had been constantly in session. This body consisted of delegates from the several states. They acted under a constitution, called the Articles of Confederation. When the war was over, and new interests sprung up, this system was found imperfect and insufficient. A convention was therefore called, which met at Philadelphia, in May, 1787, and, after a session of four months, they framed and recommended to the people the present excellent Constitution. This was adopted by a majority of the states, and under it, George Washington was elected first President of the Union.
19. Washington's Administration—1789 to 1797.—The first Congress under the new constitution met at New York on the 4th March, 1789, and on the 30th April, Washington took the prescribed oath of office. The new government went at once into easy and successful operation. Washington displayed, as president, more fully those great virtues and abilities which had marked his military life, and he was consequently re-elected at the end of four years. During his administration, the restless Indians along our borders were reduced to submission, treaties were formed with foreign nations, the machinery of our government was organized and perfected, and society at large, emerging from the state of poverty, anxiety, and chaos induced by the war, was brought to a state of order, prosperity, and peace. The love and pride of country, called patriotism, grew up under the fostering care of Washington, and it has continued, undiminished, to the present day.
20. Adams' Administration—1797 to 1801.—John Adams, of Quincy, Mass., a lawyer of great ability, a member of the Continental Congress, and an able and eloquent supporter of the American cause through the whole Revolution, was elected president, and took the oath of office, March 4th, 1797. The French Revolution had broken out the same year that Washington became president. It produced immense excitement throughout the civilized world; and as the French had aided us in our struggle for liberty, the people of this country ardently sympathized with a movement which seemed to promise the blessings of liberty to France. But the revolution there took an unfortunate turn; bad men seized the power, and our own country experienced serious embarrassments from that quarter. A war seemed inevitable, and preparations for it were made by Congress; but, happily, the crisis passed without a resort to arms. In December, 1799, after a short illness, Washington died, and the whole country mourned for him. He is still remembered under the endearing title of the Father of his Country. In the year 1800, the seat of government was removed from Philadelphia to Washington, which has since been the capital of the United States.
21. Jefferson's Administration—1801 to 1809.—Thomas Jefferson, of Virginia, who had been a leader in the Revolution, and vice-president under Mr. Adams, was elected president, and took the oath of office, March 4, 1801. In April, 1803, an immense territory, called Louisiana, was purchased of France for $15,000,000. In July, 1804, Gen. Alexander Hamilton, of New York, was killed, in a duel, by Col. Burr, also of that city. Both these men
14. Events of 1779? 15. Events of 1780? 16. Events of 1781? 17. Events of 1782–3? 18. What of Congress? The Confederation? The present constitution? 19. What of Washington's administration? 20. Adams' administration? 21. What of Jeffer-
WITH WHOM WE TRADE.—The following will show the national character of the foreign vessels which entered the ports of the United States during the year ending June 30th, 1855:
Crews. | ||||
Number. | Tons. | Men. | Boys. | |
Russian | 3 | 1 481 | 72 | — |
Prussian | 18 | 8 750 | 286 | — |
Swedish | 57 | 22 637 | 751 | 1 |
Danish | 20 | 5 208 | 196 | 2 |
Hamburg | 85 | 37 768 | 1 888 | — |
Bremen | 229 | 111 067 | 3 700 | 6 |
Lubec | 1 | 282 | 12 | — |
Oldenburg | 53 | 18 488 | 685 | — |
Mecklenburg | 12 | 3 301 | 128 | — |
Hanoverian | 13 | 4 400 | 175 | — |
Dutch | 54 | 20 275 | 857 | — |
Belgian | 14 | 6 140 | 222 | — |
British | 9,030 | 1,788 123 | 86 400 | 895 |
French | 72 | 18 286 | 929 | 2 |
Spanish | 134 | 35 708 | 1 826 | 8 |
Portuguese | 43 | 8 288 | 378 | — |
Sardinian | 37 | 10 830 | 435 | — |
Tuscan | 3 | 948 | 34 | — |
Papal | 2 | 419 | 19 | — |
Sicilian | 42 | 9 674 | 482 | — |
Austrian | 10 | 4 418 | 156 | — |
Haytian | 1 | 68 | 5 | — |
Mexican | 35 | 3.517 | 332 | 1 |
New Grenadian | 2 | 225 | 15 | — |
Venezuelan | 6 | 1 349 | 50 | — |
Brazilian | 5 | 1.215 | 51 | — |
Buenos Ayrean | 1 | 230 | 10 | — |
Chilian | 16 | 6.406 | 258 | 1 |
Peruvian | 10 | 3.434 | 150 | — |
Sandwich Islands | 3 | 292 | 22 | — |
Chinese | 1 | 826 | 17 | — |
Total | 10,012 | 2,083,948 | 99,891 | 916 |
We also annex a statement showing in what class of vessels the imports and exports were carried during the same year:
In Am. vessels. | In For'n vessels. | Total | |
Imports | $202 234 900 | $59 288 620 | $261 468 520 |
Exports | 203,250,562 | 71,906,284 | 275,156 846 |
Total | $405 485 462 | $131,139,904 | $536 625,366 |
This shows that out of $536,625,366 in value, transported between American and foreign ports, during the last year, over three fourths were carried in American vessels, the freight on which is to the credit of this country, whether collected here or abroad.
[begin surface 212]THE NATIONAL REVENUE.—The receipts into the U. S. Treasury for the year ending June 30, were $63,875,905 from customs, $3,828,486 for public land, and $1,018,806 incidentally. Total, $68,724,192. The expenditures, including redemption of public debt, were $70,822,724. The Civil List cost $29,531,922, War Department $19,261,774, which, as the army is but 15,000 men, is equal to $1,250 per head. The Navy cost $12,424,363, which, for the 10,000 persons who compose it, is $1,242 per head. These two departments cost nearly as much as all the rest of the Government.
[begin surface 213]WHO OUR SOLDIERS ARE—The standing army of the United States, as organized by law, numbers or should number 12,698 men, of whom 1,030 are commissioned officers. By the act of 1850 the President was authorized to increase the number of privates in the 181 companies, last year serving on the frontier, to seventy-four men each, which addition, if duly made, would give an aggregate of 17,862 in the American army. It is probable, however, that considering the constant losses of men by death, expiration of services, &c., our military force is rarely greater than that first mentioned.
The whole number of recruits during the six years ending September 30, 1855, was 30,066, or an annual average of 5,011. They are principally from our large cities, New York furnishing her full proportion. The difficulties of this service may be imagined from the fact, that of the 16,064 enlisted in that city during the year 1852, 13,338 were rejected for various causes.
During peace the greater number of recruits are foreigners; but in time of war this is reversed. In the last war with Great Britain nearly the entire army was composed of Americans. The same may be said of the Mexican war. Of five thousand enlistments during the year 1847, 3,639 were native born citizens of the United States. Generally these men were far nobler than the usual recruits of our peace establishment, taller, more intelligent, and less likely to succumb to sickness and fatigue.
The average height of native born soldiers gives the State of Georgia the preference, it being 5.8272 feet. The lowest is that of New York, 5.6005 feet. Of 241 men six feet and upwards, Georgia sends thirty; North Carolina twenty-four; Tennessee, Kentucky, and Indiana each eighteen; Alabama and Illinois seventeen each; South Carolina, Virginia and Ohio fifteen; Maine eleven; Maryland nine; Missouri eight; New Jersey and Vermont six; Massachusetts and Pennsylvania five; and New York four. The tallest man is from Georgia 6 feet 6½ inches. Close by him stands one from South Carolina, 6 feet 4½ inches, The average weight of American soldiers is 148.25 lbs.
[begin surface 214]We take from the official Army Register for 1857, the following statements of the standard force of the regular army and militia of the United States:—
[begin surface 217]States & Territories. | General officers. | Gen'l staff officers. | Field officers, &c. | Company officers. | Total com. officers. | Non-comm. officers, musicians, artificers and privates. | Aggregate. |
Maine | 10 | 56 | 13 | 193 | 272 | 2,345 | 2,617 |
N. Hampshire | 11 | 202 | 119 | 985 | 1,227 | 31 311 | 33,538 |
Massachusetts | 10 | 45 | 131 | 521 | 708 | 154 323 | 155 031 |
Vermont | 12 | 51 | 224 | 301 | 1,088 | 22,827 | 23 915 |
Rhode Island | 3 | 39 | 24 | 49 | 115 | 1,036 | 1,151 |
Connecticut | 3 | 10 | 59 | 182 | 254 | 51,560 | 51,314 |
New York | 97 | 305 | 1,460 | 5,402 | 7,264 | 326,094 | 333,358 |
New Jersey | — | — | — | — | — | — | 81,984 |
Pennsylvania | — | — | — | — | — | — | 106,957 |
Delaware | 4 | 8 | 71 | 364 | 447 | 8,782 | 9,229 |
Maryland | 22 | 68 | 544 | 1,763 | 2,397 | 44,467 | 46,864 |
Virginia | 32 | 76 | 153 | 614 | 875 | 124,656 | 125,531 |
North Carolina | 28 | 133 | 657 | 3,449 | 4,267 | 75,181 | 79,448 |
South Carolina | 20 | 135 | 535 | 1,909 | 2 599 | 33,473 | 26 072 |
Georgia | 39 | 91 | 624 | 4,296 | 5,050 | 73,619 | 78,699 |
Florida | 3 | 14 | 95 | 508 | 620 | 11,502 | 12 122 |
Alabama | 32 | 142 | 775 | 1 883 | 2,832 | 73,830 | 76 662 |
Louisiana | 16 | 129 | 542 | 2,084 | 2 771 | 87 951 | 90,732 |
Mississippi | 15 | 70 | 392 | 348 | 825 | 35,259 | 36,084 |
Tennessee | 25 | 79 | 859 | 2 644 | 3,607 | 67,645 | 71,252 |
Kentucky | 43 | 145 | 1,165 | 3,517 | 4,870 | 84,109 | 88,979 |
Ohio | 91 | 217 | 462 | 1,281 | 2,051 | 174,404 | 176,455 |
Michigan | 30 | 323 | 147 | 2,388 | 2,858 | 94,236 | 97,094 |
Indiana | 31 | 110 | 566 | 2,154 | 2,861 | 51,052 | 53,913 |
Illinois | — | — | — | — | — | — | 257,420 |
Wisconsin | 15 | 88 | 125 | 914 | 1,142 | 48,119 | 49,261 |
Iowa | — | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Missouri | — | 17 | 4 | 67 | 88 | 117,959 | 118,047 |
Arkansas | 10 | 39 | 128 | 955 | 1,132 | 34,922 | 36,654 |
Texas | 15 | 45 | 245 | 940 | 1,248 | 18 518 | 19,766 |
California | 12 | 11 | — | 100 | 125 | 208 522 | 208,645 |
Minnesota Ter. | 2 | 5 | — | — | 7 | 1,996 | 2,003 |
Oregon Ter. | — | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Washington T. | — | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Nebraska Ter. | — | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Kansas Ter. | — | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Utah Territory | 2 | — | 45 | 235 | 285 | 2,536 | 2,821 |
New Mexico T. | — | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Dis. Columbia | 3 | 10 | 28 | 135 | 226 | 7,975 | 3,281 |
Grand agg. | 636 | 2,654 | 19,198 | 40,611 | 54,109 | 2,071,249 | 2,571,719 |
Major General (Brevet Lieut. Gen. Scott) | 1 |
Brigadier Generals | 3 |
Adjutant General | 1 |
Assistant Adjutant General (Lieutenant Colonel) | 1 |
Assistant Adjutant Generals (Majors Brevet) | 4 |
Assistant Adjutant Generals (Captains Brevet) | 5 |
Judge Advocate | 1 |
Inspectors General | 2 |
Quartermaster General | 1 |
Assistant Quartermasters General | 2 |
Deputy Quartermasters General | 2 |
Quartermasters | 4 |
Assistant Quartermasters | 28 |
Commissary General of Subsistence | 1 |
Commissaries of Subsistence (Majors) | 2 |
Commissaries of Subsistence (Captains) | 8 |
Surgeon General | 1 |
Surgeons | 26 |
Assistant Surgeons | 80 |
Paymaster General | 1 |
Deputy Paymasters General | 2 |
Paymasters | 25 |
Colonels | 32 |
Lieutenant Colonels | 23 |
Majors | 50 |
Captains | 244 |
Aids-de-camp | 5 |
Adjutants | 19 |
Regimental Quartermasters | 19 |
First Lieutenants | 280 |
Second Lieutenants | 214 |
Brevet Second Lieutenants | 8 |
Military Storekeepers | 17 |
Sergeant Majors | 19 |
Quartermaster Sergeants | 19 |
Principal and Chief Musicians | 25 |
Chief Buglers | 10 |
Ordnance Sergeants | 74 |
Hospital Stewards | 51 |
Sergeants | 802 |
Buglers | 100 |
Musicians | 298 |
Farriers and Blacksmiths | 60 |
Artificers | 96 |
Privates | 9022 |
Enlisted Men of Ordnance | 250 |
Total Commisssioned | 1,060 |
Total Enlisted | 11,628 |
Aggregate | 12,688 |
Posts. | State. | Garrison. |
Fort Ontario. | New York, | 2d artillery. |
Fort Independence. | Massachusetts, | 2d artillery. |
West Point. | New York, | Engineers. |
Fort Columbus. | " | Recruits. |
Fort Hamilton. | " | 2d artillery. |
Carlisle Barracks. | Pennsylvania, | Recruits. |
Fort McHenry. | Maryland, | 1st and 2d artillery. |
Newport Barracks. | Kentucky, | Recruits. |
Fort Monroe. | Virginia, | 2d, 3d and 4th artillery. |
Fort Moultrie. | S. Carolina, | 1st artillery. |
Baton Rouge B'ks. | Louisiana, | 1st artillery. |
Fort Brooke. | Florida, | 4th artillery. |
Fort Kissimmee. | " | 4th artillery. |
Manatee. | " | 4th artillery. |
Fort Capron. | " | 1st artillery. |
Fort Deynaud. | " | 4th artillery. |
Fort Myers. | " | 3d art. 4th art. & 5th inf. |
Fort Dulany. | " | 4th artillery. |
Fort Dallas. | " | 1st and 4th artillery. |
Key West. | " | 1st artillery. |
Fort Ripley. | Minnesota, | 10th infantry. |
Fort Snelling. | " | 3d art. & 10th infantry. |
Fort Ridgely. | " | 10th infantry. |
Fort Pierre. | Nebraska, | 2d infantry. |
Fort Lookout. | " | 2d infantry. |
Fort Randall. | " | 2d drag. & 3d infantry. |
Platte Bridge. | " | 6th infantry. |
Fort Laramie. | " | 6th infantry. |
Fort Kearny. | " | 2d drag. & 6th infantry. |
Fort Riley. | Kansas, | 2d dragoons. |
Fort Leavenworth. | " | 1 cav., 4 art., 6th inf. |
Jefferson Barracks. | Missouri, | Recruits. |
Fort Gibson. | Arkansas, | 7th infantry. |
Fort Smith. | " | 7th infantry. |
Fort Arbuckle. | " | 7th infantry. |
Fort Washita. | " | 7th infantry. |
Fort Belknap. | Texas, | 7th infantry. |
Camp Cooper. | " | 2d cav. & 1st infantry. |
Fort Chadbourne. | " | 1st infantry. |
Camp Colorado. | " | 2d cavalry. |
Fort McKavett. | " | 1st infantry. |
Fort Lancaster. | " | 1st infantry. |
Fort Davis. | " | 8th infantry. |
Fort Mason. | " | 2d cavalry. |
Camp Verde. | " | 2d cavalry |
Fort Inge. | " | 2d cavalry. |
Fort Clark. | " | 2d cavalry. |
Fort Duncan. | " | 1st infantry. |
Fort McIntosh. | " | 1st artillery. |
Ringgold Barracks. | " | 1st artillery. |
Fort Brown. | " | 1st artillery. |
FortMassachusetts. | New Mexico, | 3d infantry. |
Cantonm't B'gwin,. | " | Rifle and 3d infantry. |
Fort Union........ | " | Rifles. |
Fort Marcy........ | " | 3d infantry. |
Camp n'r Hatch's R | " | Rifles. |
Fort Defiance...... | " | 2d art and 3d infantry. |
Albuquerque...... | " | 3d infantry. |
Los Lunas........ | " | Rifles. |
Fort Craig......... | " | Rifles & 3d infantry. |
Fort Stanton...... | " | Rifles, 2d art. & 8th inf. |
Fort Thorn........ | " | Rifles & 3d infantry. |
Tucson...... | " | 1st dragoons. |
Fort Fillmore...... | " | Rifles & 3d infantry. |
Fort Bliss...... | " | 8th infantry. |
San Elisario...... | " | 8th infantry. |
Bellingham Bay... | Wash. Ter., | 9th infantry. |
Port Townsend.... | " | 4th infantry. |
Camp on Muckie | ||
Shute Prairie.... | " | 9th infantry. |
Fort Steilacoom.... | " | 4th infantry. |
Fort Simcoe....... | " | 9th infantry. |
Fort Walla Walla.. | " | 1 drag., art, 4 & 9 inf. |
Fort Vancouver... | " | 4th infantry. |
Fort Cascades..... | " | 9th infantry. |
Fort Dalles....... | Oregon. | 3 artillery & 9 infantry. |
Fort Yamhill...... | " | 1 drag. & 4th infantry. |
Fort Hoskies...... | " | 4th inf. |
Umpqua City...... | " | 3d artillery |
Fort Jones........ | California, | 4th inf. |
Fort Humboldt.... | " | 4th inf. |
Fort Reading...... | " | 1st dragoons. |
Benicia Barracks.. | " | 3d artillery. |
Presido S. Francisco | " | 3d artillery. |
Fort Muller........ | " | 3d artillery. |
Fort Tejon..... .. | " | 1st dragoons. |
Mission of S. Diego. | " | 1 dragoons & 3 artillery. |
Fort Yuma........ | " | 3d artillery. |
ARMORIES AND ARSENALS.
Kennebec arsenal, Maine; Springfield armory, Massachusetts; Watertown arsenal, Massachusetts; Champlain arsenal, Vermont; Watervliet arsenal, New York; New York arsenal, New York; Allegheny arsenal, Pennsylvania; Frankford arsenal, Pennsylvania; Pikesville arsenal, Maryland; Washington arsenal, District of Columbia; Harper's Ferry armory, Virginia; Fort Monroe arsenal, Virginia; North Carolina arsenal, North Carolina; Charleston arsenal, South Carolina; Augusta arsenal, Georgia; Mount Vernon arsenal, Alabama; Apalachicola arsenal, Florida; Baton Rouge arsenal, Louisiana; Little Rock arsenal, Arkansas; St. Louis arsenal, Missouri; Detroit arsenal, Michigan; Benicia arsenal, California.
MILITARY GEOGRAPHICAL DEPARTMENT.
DEPARTMENT OF THE EAST—The country east of the Mississippi river, except that portion included within the limits of the Department of Florida—Headquarters at Baltimore, Md.
DEPARTMENT OF FLORIDA.—The State of Florida, except that portion of it lying west of the Chattahoochee and Apalachicola rivers—Headquarters at Fort Brooke, Tampa Bay, Florida.
DEPARTMENT OF THE WEST.—The country west of the Mississippi river, and east of the Rocky Mountains, except that portion included within the limits of the Department of Texas and New Mexi o—Headquarters at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas Territory.
DEPARTMENT OF TEXAS.—The State of Texas, except the country north of the thirty third degree of north latitude—Headquarters at San Antonio, Texas.
DEPARTMENT OF NEW MEXICO.—The Territory of New Mexico, except the country west of the 110th degree of west longitude—Headquarters at Santa Fe, New Mexico.
DEPARTMENT OF THE PACIFIC.—The country west of the Rocky Mountains, except that portion included within the limits of the Department of New Mexico—Headquarters at Benicia, California.
The headquarters of the army are in the city of New York.
[begin surface 221]were eminent, and Burr was at the time vice-president of the United States. At the end of his first term, Jefferson was re-elected to the presidency. Several other interesting events took place during this period, but we have not space to enumerate them. It may be proper to say, however, that France and England being at war, they adopted measures injurious to our commerce, which induced Congress to lay an embargo, December 22d, 1807, upon all shipping in our ports. This was soon taken off, and an act of commercial non-intercourse with France and England was passed.
22. Madison's Administration—1809 to 1817.—James Madison, an eminent lawyer and statesman of Virginia, became president of the United States on 4th March, 1809. The difficulties with France and England continued. Gen. Harrison, who had been sent to subdue the Indians of the west, was violently attacked on the 7th November, 1811, by a large body of savage warriors. The contest was fierce and bloody, but the Americans at last prevailed. Both parties suffered severe loss. This conflict is called the Battle of Tippecanoe, from the little river upon whose banks it was fought. On the 18th June, 1812, Congress declared war against Great Britain. The chief events of this contest took place along our northern border. Many battles were fought, but without decisive advantage on either side. At sea, our little navy achieved a series of the most brilliant victories. The British fleets were captured both on Lake Champlain and Lake Erie. On January 8, 1815, Gen. Jackson having command of the American army at New Orleans, repulsed 12,000 British troops, led on by Gen. Packenham, in an attack upon that city. The loss of the British was nearly 2000 men, with the first and second officers in command. The loss of the Americans was seven killed and six wounded. Previous to this event—that is, on the 24th December, 1814—a treaty of peace had been signed by the American and British commissioners, at the city of Ghent, in Holland. The news of this had not been received in New Orleans when the battle there was fought. Immediately after the war with Great Britain, our government deemed it necessary to send a squadron into the Mediterranean, to chastise Algiers and the other Barbary states, who had committed piracies upon our commerce. Under the command of Decatur, this force speedily brought Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli to terms of submission, and obtained payment of large sums of money for violations of neutrality during the war with England.
23. Monroe's Administration—1817 to 1825.—James Monroe, of Virginia, became president, March 4, 1817. During his administration of eight years, the Seminole Indians, who had committed depredations, were subdued. In 1819, Florida was obtained by treaty from Spain. A number of states were admitted into the Union. La Fayette, a brave and generous Frenchman, who had served in our armies during the Revolution, revisited our country in 1824, and was everywhere received with acclamations of welcome by the people. The country, recovering from the disasters of the war, was restored to the blessings of peace and prosperity.
24. J. Q. Adams' Administration—1825 to 1829.—John Quincy Adams, of Massachusetts, son of the former president, and a distinguished statesman, became president, March 4th, 1825. On the 4th July, 1826, the fiftieth anniversary of American independence, both John Adams and Thomas Jefferson died. No great national event occurred during this administration.
25. Jackson's Administration—1829 to 1837.—John Quincy Adams and his father both failed of a second election. With these exceptions, all the other presidents had been re-elected, and served for eight years. Gen. Jackson was chosen president for his high military services, and took the oath of office March 4, 1829. His administration was distinguished by hostility to the United States Bank, which had existed for forty years. A new charter was refused, and it terminated in 1836. Opposition to the existing tariff arose in the south, and, headed by J. C. Calhoun, of South Carolina, the principles of nullification were adopted, by which a single state claimed the right to nullify and set aside the laws of the United States. This difficulty was pacified, February 12, 1833, by the celebrated Compromise bill introduced by Henry Clay, of Kentucky, by which a gradual reduction of duties was provided for. A formidable war with the Seminoles commenced in 1835, which was not terminated till 1842. This contest was attended with the loss of many valuable lives, and a cost to the country of forty millions of dollars.
26. Van Buren's Administration—1837 to 1841.—Martin Van Buren, of New York, became president, March 4th, 1837. His administration was distinguished by the continuance and close of the Seminole war, and by great commercial embarrassments.
27. Harrison and Tyler's Administration—1841 to 1845.—William Henry Harrison, of Ohio, became president, March 4, 1841. At the end of a month, he died, and the vice-president, John Tyler, of Virginia, succeeded him. During his term of office, a serious difficulty took place in Rhode Island, called Dorr's Rebellion, which was, however, appeased by the adoption of a new constitution. The boundary of Maine, which had been long in dispute, was settled by treaty, negotiated at Washington, by Lord Ashburton, on the part of Great Britain, and Mr. Webster, Secretary of State, on the part of the United States. In February, 1845, Texas was annexed to the Union, and the next year became a state.
28. Polk's Administration—1845 to 1849.—James K. Polk, of Tennessee, became president, March 4, 1845. The great event of his administration was the war with Mexico, which commenced in 1846, and ended in 1848. During this war, Gen. Taylor distinguished himself by several brilliant victories; and the extensive territories of New Mexico and California were ceded to the United States. During this administration, the boundary of the Oregon territory was settled.
29. Taylor and Fillmore's Administration—1849 to 1853.—Gen. Zachary Taylor, of Mississippi, became president, March 4, 1849. He, dying on the 9th July, 1850, Millard Fillmore, of New York, vice-president, succeeded him. During this administration, California was admitted, and New Mexico and Utah were erected into territories. Both these presidents were devoted patriots.
30. Pierce's Administration—1853 to 1857.—Franklin Pierce, of New Hampshire, became president March 4th, 1853. Nebraska and Kansas territories formed.
son's administration? 22. What of Madison's administration? 23. What of Monroe's administration? 24. What of J. Q. Adams' administration? 25. Jackson's administration? 26. Van Buren's administration? 27. What of Harrison and Tyler's administration? 28. What of Polk's administration? 29. Taylor's administration? 30. Pierce's administration?
51. Characteristics.—These six states have been thus described: New England hath a climate cold, A rugged soil, and mountains bold; But yet her hills are tilled with care; Her villages are bright and fair; The church's spire decks every scene, The schoolhouse every village green; While busy factories ply the wheel, And commerce speeds the adventurous keel. The fisherman defies the gale; The bold harpooner strikes the whale; The hunter roams the forest track; And each has gathered spoil brings back To Yankee land, his cherished home, Blest with his store, no more to roam.
Exercises on the Map of New England.—Boundaries of New England? Extent? Population? Population to square mile? Describe the following: Bay of Fundy; Penobscot Bay; Massachusetts Bay; Cape Cod. Where are the following lakes: Champlain? Moose Head? Winnipiseogee? Describe the following rivers: Connecticut: Merrimac; Androscoggin; Kennebec. Boundaries and capital of each state?
Lesson XXIV. 1. Characteristics of New England? 2. Mountains?
[begin surface 235]2. Mountains.—These states are crossed, along the western boundary, by the Green Mountain range. Mount Washington, in New Hampshire, one of the White Mountains, is six thousand four hundred feet high, and is the loftiest peak in this quarter of the United States.
3. Face of the Country.—This is greatly diversified. In the interior it is mountainous, with narrow vales between. The land along the sea-shore presents an irregular surface of hills and ridges, with flats of moderate extent. The numerous lakes and ponds of New England form a charming feature in the scenery.
4. Soil and Climate.—Much of the soil is good, yet it requires diligent cultivation in order to obtain fair crops. The climate is severe, and it is necessary to make careful preparation for the long winters. The indifference of the soil, and the severity of the climate, have compelled the people to be industrious, frugal, and enterprising.
5. The following are the principal rivers: This table lists the principal rivers of New England and their lengths including: Connecticut, Kennebec, Penobscot, Androscoggin, and Housatonic.
6. Industry and Enterprise.—The coast is indented with numerous harbors, and the inhabitants have been, therefore, invited to maritime enterprises. They are largely engaged in the cod, mackerel, and whale fisheries, and their commerce is very extensive. Their manufactures, too, are numerous, and on a liberal scale. Even the granite of their hills, and the ice formed upon their lakes, are extensively exported. Thus industry has conquered the obstacles of nature and climate, and scattered wealth and plenty over a region of comparative sterility.
7. Political Divisions.—The political divisions of New England are as follows:
8. Products.—The leading product of agriculture in New England is grass for grazing and hay; besides this, wheat, Indian corn, oats, barley, potatoes, &c., are produced in considerable quantities. Horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs, are raised in great numbers. The chief fruits are apples, pears, peaches, plums, strawberries, currants, &c.
9. Chief Towns.—Boston, standing at the head of Boston bay, is the commercial metropolis of New England, and its ships are found on every sea of the globe. It is also the great mart of the country for domestic manufactures, as cotton goods, woolens, shoes, boots, &c. Numerous railroads branch off in every direction, and facilitate its intercourse with different parts of the country. New Bedford and Nantucket are the chief places engaged in the whale fisheries. Lowell is renowned for its manufactures.
10. The population of the chief towns is as follows: This table lists the population of major towns in New England in the years 1840 and 1850. These cities include: Boston, Lowell, Providence, New Haven, Portland, Hartford, Concord, Augusta, Montpelier, and Manchester, N. H.
11. The following is a table of distances from Boston: This table lists the distance in miles of the following cities from Boston: Quebec, Montreal, Houlton, Calais, Bangor, Augusta, Portland, Concord, Montpelier, Hartford, New Haven, and Providence.
12. Education.—New England has long been celebrated for its colleges and schools. Every person has the means of obtaining a good English education; and very few natives of the soil can be found, who are not able to read and write with facility.
13. Morality and Religion.—The people of this section are, in a high degree, moral and religious. Meeting-houses and churches are numerous, and the Sabbath is strictly observed. Charitable societies of various kinds are common, and lyceums for lectures and public instruction are found in the principal towns, and in many villages. The temperance societies have done much towards checking the baneful use of intoxicating drinks.
14. Villages and Cultivation.—Though the natural aspect of New England is rough and forbidding, industry and taste have dotted it over with cheerful and thriving towns and villages. Its hill-sides and valleys are enriched by cultivation, and the traveler can hardly find in any land a people living in a state of equal comfort. If there are not many who are very rich, there are few who are poor.
15. History—The Puritans.—The history of New England affords many passages of deep interest. It was first settled by some English people called Puritans, who fled hither from religious persecution. They landed at Plymouth, December 22, 1620, and thus laid the foundation of what has since become the state of Massachusetts.
16. Connecticut and Rhode Island.—The first settlements in Connecticut were made by emigrants from Massachusetts, in 1636. Roger Williams, a Baptist minister, made the first settlement in Rhode Island, in this year. The other portions of New England became gradually occupied, chiefly by people from England, or by the descendants of the earlier settlers in this quarter.
17. Indian Wars.—For a time, the colonists were at peace with the Indians; but at length war broke out. On several occasions, the colonists came near being exterminated. In 1675, a celebrated chief, named Philip, stirred up the savage tribes, and for three years a bloody contest was maintained. But the white people at last prevailed, and the Indians gradually disappeared from the land of their fathers.
18. Revolutionary War.—A century after Philip's war, the Revolution commenced with the battle of Lexington, and the celebrated contest on Bunker Hill followed, June 17, 1775. Throughout the conflict with Great Britain, which lasted eight years, and which resulted in the independence of the United States, the people of New England bore an active and important part.
19. Settlement of other States.—The inhabitants of New England have also largely contributed to the settlement of the more western states. A considerable part of New York, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois were first occupied by people from Connecticut and Massachusetts.
20. Manners and Customs.—The people of these six states are almost wholly of English descent. Their manners and customs are essentially English, though a tinge of Puritanism still lingers among them. The term Yankee, which appears, originally, to have been an imitation of the Indian's Yangees (English), is, in this country, applied to the people of New England. In Europe, all our people are designated by this title.
3. Face of the country? 4. Soil and climate? 5. Principal rivers? 6. Industry and enterprise? 7. Political divisions? 8. Products? 9. Chief towns? 10. Population of chief towns? 11. Distances from Boston? 12. Education? 13. Morality and religion? 14. Villages and cultivation? 15. The Puritans? Their landing at Plymouth? 16. Connecticut and Rhode Island? 17. Indian wars? 18. Revolutionary war? 19. Settlement of other states? 20. Manners and customs of New England?
1. Characteristics.—This is the most northeastern of the United States, and contains nearly as much territory as the other five New England states. It has immense forests, which yield great quantities of timber; and numerous bays and harbors, favorable to navigation.
2. Mountains.—The Highlands, or chain of mountains that separate the waters falling into the St. Lawrence from those emptying themselves into the Atlantic Ocean, extend from the northern extremity of New Hampshire along the northern line of Maine. This ridge is called the Main or Northeastern Ridge. Some of its peaks rise to the height of 4000 feet. There are many insulated peaks within the state, the highest of which is Mount Katahdin, 5335 feet above the level of the sea.
3. Valleys.—The principal valleys are those of the Kennebec and Penobscot. In the south, the banks of these rivers are elevated and broken; but further inland, there are large level tracts along their margins.
4. Rivers.—The Penobscot is the largest river in the state. The whole length is 250 miles, and it is navigable for large vessels to Bangor, 52 miles from its mouth. The western branch rises in the Highlands in the northwest, and, after flowing through Chesuncook Lake, unites with the eastern, about 120 miles from the sea. The Kennebec has its source in Moose Head Lake, near the eastern branch of the Penobscot. It flows nearly south, and is joined by the Androscoggin at Merrymeeting Bay. It is navigable for vessels of 100 tons to Augusta, and to Bath, twelve miles from the sea, for large ships. It is about 200 miles in length. The Androscoggin rises near the Kennebec, and flows southeast through a succession of lakes. It enters New Hampshire, and, flowing south and east, re-enters Maine at Gilead, and joins the Kennebec at Merrymeeting Bay. It is 140 miles in length. The Saco rises in the White Mountains, enters Maine at Fryeburg, and flows southeast to the sea. It is 160 miles long, and is navigable for ships to Saco, six miles from its mouth.
5. Lakes.—Moose Head Lake, the largest in New England, is forty miles long, and ten to fifteen broad. Umbagog, partly in New Hampshire, is eighteen miles long, and ten miles wide. Chesuncook is twenty miles in length, and three or four in breadth. Sebago Pond, near Portland, is twelve miles in length.
6. Islands.—The largest is Mount Desert, in Frenchman's Bay. It is fifteen miles long, and twelve broad. There are many smaller islands.
7. Bays.—Penobscot Bay is thirty miles in length, north
and south, and eighteen in width. It affords great facilities for navigation. Casco Bay extends twenty miles, and contains upwards of 300 islands.
8. Climate.—The winters are severe, and the ground is usually covered with snow four months in the year. The summers are hot, but not long. The early frosts sometimes do great damage to the crops. The spring is generally rainy and foggy. The coldest wind is from the north-west. The cattle begin to graze in May, and are taken to fodder in November.
9. Soil.—The soil is not generally fertile. On the coast and in the northern part it is poor, but between the Kennebec and Penobscot it is excellent.
10. Vegetable Products.—White pine abounds in the northern part, and white and red oak on the coast. Hemlock, spruce, beech, maple, ash, and birch, abound. The apple, pear, plum, and cherry, thrive, and are successfully cultivated. Much of the land is adapted to grazing, and large numbers of cattle are raised.
11. Minerals.—Iron is found in all parts of the state.
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Maine? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? Describe the following: Mount Desert Island; Penobscot Bay; Moose Head Lake; Chesuncook Lake; Schoodic Lakes; River St. Croix; Penobscot; Kennebec; Androscoggin. Capital of Maine? Direction of the principal towns from Augusta?
LESSON XXV. 1. Characteristics of Maine? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Penobscot river? Kennebec, &c.?
[begin surface 237]Limestone is abundant, particularly at Thomaston, where it is burned in large quantities, for exportation. In some places it affords a fine marble. Granite abounds in many parts of the state, and slate occurs in some places.
12. Face of the Country.—The surface is generally hilly; in some parts, it rises into mountains of considerable elevation. Near the coast and along the rivers there are small plains.
13. Divisions.—The counties with their county towns, are as follows: This table lists the counties of Maine with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
14. Chief Towns.—The capital is Augusta, situated on the west bank of the Kennebec, forty-seven miles from its mouth. It contains the State-House, which is a handsome granite edifice; and on the other side of the river, over which there is a bridge, is a United States arsenal. The largest town in the state is Portland, situated upon a peninsula in Casco Bay, with a safe and capacious harbor, protected by several forts. The inhabitants are largely concerned in the fisheries, and carry on an extensive coasting and foreign trade. Thomaston, on Penobscot Bay, is noted for its active industry. Limestone is abundant, and most of the lime exported from Maine is manufactured at Thomaston. Marble is also wrought. A state-prison has been built here on the plan of the Auburn and Sing Sing prisons. Hallowell is a flourishing town, situated on the Kennebec, forty-five miles from its mouth. Vessels of 150 tons come up to the wharfs. Beef, pork, ashes, grain, etc., are the principal exports. Twenty-eight miles below is Bath. It is at the head of ship navigation, and the river is seldom frozen over. Much ship-building is done at Bath. Brunswick, on the Androscoggin, has several manufactories and mills. Bodwoin College is situated here. Saco is on the river of the same name, six miles from its mouth. The falls at Saco have a descent of forty-two feet, and afford excellent sites for mills and manufacturing establishments. The town is also well situated for commerce. Bangor, at the head of tide-water, on the Penobscot, is noted for the lumber trade carried on there. It has a large and rapidly increasing commerce. Belfast, near the mouth of the river, has a good harbor, and great maritime advantages. Castine, on the east side of Penobscot Bay, has an excellent and capacious harbor. At Gardiner, four miles from Hallowell, there are numerous mills. At Waterville, eighteen miles above Augusta, there is a Baptist College. Eastport, the most easterly town in the United States, is situated on an island in Passamaquoddy Bay. It has a large and commodious harbor, and a flourishing commerce. Madawaska Settlement, the most northerly in Maine, is situated on the St. Johns, which forms the boundary between Maine and Canada.
15. Agriculture.—The chief agricultural products are Indian corn, wheat, oats, rye, potatoes, flax, hay, etc.
16. Commerce.—The inhabitants are extensively engaged in commercial pursuits. The exports consist of timber, boards, staves, wood, fish, beef, pork, butter, cheese, bricks, lime, marble, etc. Cargoes of ice have also been exported to the West Indies and the southern ports of the Union. Maine is the third state in point of shipping, and builds more tonnage annually than any other state, and at least one-third of the total amount built in the Union.
17. Manufactures.—The manufactures are woolen and cotton goods, candles, soap, nails, etc.
18. Fisheries.—Cod, herring, mackerel, salmon, and other fish, are taken and exported in large quantities. The cod fishing is pursued on the banks of Newfoundland.
Cutting Trees for Lumber in Winter. Image of men cutting and hauling trees for lumber.19. Lumbering.—The extensive forests in the interior furnish great quantities of timber and fuel. The felling of timber is generally performed in winter. The trees are dragged to the nearest stream, to be carried down on the breaking up of the ice, being previously marked. At the mills they are collected, and converted into boards, etc. Those employed in this business are called lumberers.
20. Railroads and Canals.—Railroads are numerous, and diverge principally from Portland. The great railroad to Montreal is the longest line; and a line is in progress to Halifax, in Nova Scotia. The Cumberland and Oxford Canal is an important work.
21. Education.—Maine in 1850 had 4042 public schools, attended by 192,815 scholars; 131 academies and other schools, attended by 6648 pupils, and 3 colleges attended by 282 students. Bowdoin College, at Brunswick, is an old and favorite institution.
22. History—Annals.—The first permanent settlement in Maine was made in Bristol, on the east side of the Damariscotta River, at Pemaquid Point. This was in 1625. Ten years after, the district was granted, by the British crown, to Fernando Gorges, who appointed a governor and council. In 1652, the state of Massachusetts purchased the territory of the heirs of Gorges, for $5,335. It was
5. Lakes? 6. Islands? 7. Bays? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Vegetable products? 11. Minerals? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 14. Augusta, Portland, Thomaston, etc.? 15. Agriculture? 16. Commerce? 17. Manufactures? 18. Fisheries? 19. Lumbering? 20. Railroads? 21. Education? 22. Annals? 23. Indian Wars? 24. Arnold's march?
[begin surface 238]annexed to Massachusetts in 1691, by a charter from William and Mary, and remained under its jurisdiction, as the District of Maine, until 1820, when it was admitted into the Union as an independent state.
23. Historical Incidents—Indian Wars.—At the time of the first attempts at settlement in Maine, it appears to have been the residence of powerful tribes of Indians. The wars between England and France extended to their American colonies, and, excited by the French, the Indians of Maine inflicted great miseries upon the settlers. During King William's war, in 1689, as well as Queen Anne's, in 1701, prowling bands of savages roamed throughout Maine and New Hampshire. They were attended by French soldiers, who incited them to the commission of every species of cruelty. The frontier settlers were obliged to abandon the cultivation of their fields, and collect in fortified dwellings, for the purposes of defence. These were often attacked, and, though bravely defended, were sometimes overwhelmed by numbers, and men, women, and children put to the sword, or reserved for torture and captivity.
24. Arnold's March.—In 1775, immediately after the commencement of the Revolutionary war, it was resolved to make an attack upon Canada. Gen. Montgomery, with a considerable force, proceeded up Lake Champlain, took Montreal, and marched upon Quebec. A detachment of 1000 men, under Gen. Arnold, started from Cambridge, in October, 1775, to co-operate with Montgomery. Passing through Maine, by way of the Kennebec, they reached the vicinity of Quebec on the 9th November. In this march, the soldiers and their leader displayed a degree of energy, courage, and perseverance, almost without parallel. Nearly the whole line of march was without inhabitants, and toward the close of the expedition, the soldiers were compelled to eat the leather of their shoes for subsistence!
Approach to the White Mountains. An image of a cabin by a road with mountains in the background.1. Characteristics.—This state is noted as containing the White Mountains, of which Mount Washington is the highest peak. This is one of the highest summits east of the Mississippi. This state presents the most picturesque and sublime scenery.
Map of New Hampshire. Extent, 8,030 square miles. Discovered by Capt. Smith, 1614. First Settlement, in 1623. Pop. in 1850, 317,976.—Pop. to the sq. m., 39.60.2. The White Mountains belong to the Green Mountain range. They are visited every summer by many persons, on account of the beauty of the scenery among the mountains, and the magnificent prospect afforded from the summit.
3. The Notch.—The White Mountains are approached through a deep gorge called the Notch, which was the scene of a fearful tragedy some years since. A family, by the name of Willey, dwelt in this valley; but on the night of the 28th of August, 1826, a part of the mountain descended like an avalanche. The family, among which were four children, heard the noise, and fled from the house. The mass of rocks and earth overwhelmed them, but the house remained uninjured!
4. Valleys.—The principal valleys are those of the
Exercises on the Map.—Extent of New Hampshire? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? Describe the following: White Mountains; Winnipiseogee Lake. Where does the river Merrimac rise? Which way does it flow? What river flows between New Hampshire and Vermont? Capital of New Hampshire? Direction of the principal towns from Concord?
LESSON XXVI. 1. Characteristics of New Hampshire? 2. The White Mountains? 3. The Notch? 4. Valleys? 5. Rivers?
[begin surface 239]Connecticut and Merrimac. The Connecticut valley is the most extensive and fertile in New England. It is 300 miles long, and from five to fifty miles wide. The valley of the Merrimac consists of sandy plains, covered with pines.
5. Rivers.—The Connecticut rises in Lower Canada, and runs south to Long Island Sound, separating New Hampshire from Vermont, and passing through Massachusetts and Connecticut. It is 450 miles in length, and navigable for ships to Hartford. The Merrimac rises in New Hampshire, and flows southeast to the sea. Length, 200 miles. It is navigable for boats to Concord—forty miles.
6. Lakes.—The largest is Lake Winnipiseogee, twenty-three miles in length, and from two to ten in width. It is 472 feet above the sea level. It is celebrated for its charming scenery. Lakes Squam and Ossipee are smaller, and are situated to the north. They are covered with islands.
7. Islands.—The Isles of Shoals are a cluster of barren rocks rising above the water. They lie off the mouth of the Piscataqua River, eight miles from the shore. The inhabitants, about 200, gain a living by the cod fishery.
8. Climate.—The winters are severe. The ground is generally covered with snow in November, which continues upon the hills till the beginning of May. Sleighing generally lasts four months in the year. The spring is rainy.
9. Soil.—The best lands are on the borders of the rivers, which occasionally overflow their banks. The high lands are generally well adapted to pasturage.
10. Vegetable Products.—Among the trees are the oak, maple, beech, hemlock, and pine, in the mountains; and the elm, cherry, ash, poplar, and locust, in the plains and valleys. The white pine is sometimes 200 feet in height, and its trunk six feet in diameter.
11. Minerals.—Granite, suitable for building, is found in all parts of the state. New Hampshire is often called the "Granite State." Copper and iron, both of excellent quality, are found at Franconia. Plumbago, or black-lead, has been discovered at Bristol. Soapstone and limestone are found in several places in the state.
12. Face of the Country.—With the exception of a low tract along the coast, twenty or thirty miles in width, the state is covered with hills and valleys. New Hampshire is the most mountainous state in the Union, and has been called the "Switzerland of America."
13. Divisions.—The state is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of New Hampshire with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
14. Natural Curiosities.—The Notch, which has been already mentioned, is a deep ravine, two miles in length. In the narrowest point, it is twenty-two feet wide. The Saco River passes through it. Near Franconia is a peak, called the Profile Mountain, 1000 feet high. A side view exhibits the gigantic profile of a human face.
15. Chief Towns.—Concord, the seat of government, is situated upon the Merrimac, forty-five miles from Portsmouth. It contains the state-house, state-prison, courthouse, and several banks. Much of the trade of the upper country centers in Concord, from which boat navigation extends through Merrimac River and Middlesex Canal to Boston. There are two bridges across the Merrimac, here. Portsmouth, the largest town in the state, is situated near the mouth of the Piscataqua, three miles from the ocean. It is the only seaport in the state. The harbor is one of the best in the world, and is accessible to vessels of the largest size. It is naturally strong, and is protected by several forts. In the river, there is a United States Navy-yard. Dover, noted for its manufactures, is situated upon the Cocheco, ten miles from Portsmouth. The river is here navigable for vessels of eighty tons. Nashua is a large manufacturing town on the Merrimac, near the southern boundary of the state. Manchester, also noted for its manufactures, is situated upon the Merrimac, twenty-one miles south of Concord. Great Falls, a village on Salmon Falls River, has several cotton and woolen mills. Exeter, on the river of the same name, which affords excellent mill sites, has several manufactories. Hanover, on the Connecticut, is the seat of Dartmouth College.
16. Agriculture.—This state is chiefly agricultural. Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, grass, etc., are produced in large quantities. Many cattle, hogs, sheep, etc., are raised. Apples, pears, plums, and cherries are abundant.
17. Commerce.—The commerce of New Hampshire is confined to the single port of Portsmouth. The exports are lumber, provisions, cattle, flax-seed, etc.
18. Manufactures.—There are several extensive manufacturing establishments at Great Falls, on Salmon Falls River; Nashua and Manchester, on the Merrimac; and Dover and Exeter, on branches of the Piscataqua River.
19. Fisheries.—New Hampshire has only eighteen miles of sea-coast, and but few harbors; but there is considerable fishing from Portsmouth and the Isle of Shoals.
20. Lumbering.—The business of lumbering is carried on to a considerable extent in this state, though it has greatly diminished within a few years.
21. Education.—In 1850 there were in the state 2381 public schools, attended by 75,643 scholars; 107 academies, attended by 5321 pupils, and 1 college, attended by 273 students. Dartmouth College is one of the oldest and best institutions of America.
22. Railroads.—New Hampshire has a large number of railroads connecting the manufacturing towns with Concord, Portsmouth, and Boston; and besides these it has lines passing through the state to Canada and the great West. The Middlesex Canal is partly within this state.
23. History—Annals.—New Hampshire was first granted to Fernando Gorges, in 1622. The first settlement was made at Dover, during the following year. It came voluntarily under the jurisdiction of Massachusetts in 1641, but was made a separate province, by act of Charles II., in 1679. It was several times afterward connected with Massachusetts, until 1741, at which time it assumed an independent position, which it has since held without interruption. The history of New Hampshire is similar to that of Maine, in respect to Indian hostilities.
6. Lakes? 7. Islands? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Vegetable products? 11. Minerals? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 14. Natural Curiosities? 15. Chief towns?—Concord, Portsmouth, Dover, etc.? 16. Agriculture? 17. Commerce? 18. Manufactures? 19. Fisheries? 20. Lumbering? 21. Education? 22. Railroads? 23. Annals? Indian hostilities?
1. Characteristics.—This state is noted for the rugged character of its soil and climate, and for the independence and intelligence of the people.
2. Mountains.—The Green Mountains, which extend through the state from north to south, are a continuation of the great eastern chain of the Alleghanies, called the Blue Ridge. In the centre of the state they are divided into two ridges, one of which runs northeast into Canada, and the other north till it sinks in a remote part of the state. The Green Mountains are from ten to fifteen miles wide, and are much intersected with valleys. They derive their name from their perpetual verdure, being covered with small evergreen trees and shrubs. The highest summits are Mansfield Mountain, with two elevations, called the Chin and the Nose, 4279 feet above the level of the sea; Camel's Rump, 4188 feet; and Killington Peak, 3675 feet. Ascutney Mountain, an insulated peak near Windsor, is 3320 feet high, having a considerable lake on the top.
3. Rivers.—The Connecticut forms the eastern boundary of Vermont. All the rivers within the state are small, and have their sources in the Green Mountains. The principal streams are the White and Passumpsic rivers, falling into the Connecticut; and the Missisque, Lamoile, Onion, and Otter, emptying into Lake Champlain.
4. Mineral Springs.—There are several mineral springs, impregnated with sulphur or iron, which are resorted to by invalids.
5. Cataracts.—Bellows Falls form a remarkable cataract, or more properly, a rapid, in the Connecticut, five miles above Westminster. A large rock divides the stream into two channels, each about ninety feet wide at top. When the water is low, the east channel appears crossed by a bar of solid rock, and the whole stream falls into the west channel, where it is contracted into the breadth of sixteen feet. There are several pitches, one above the other, in the distance of half a mile. The descent in this course is forty-two feet. Several factories are established here.
6. Lakes.—The largest lake is Champlain, situated between New York and Vermont. It extends from Whitehall, in New York, a little beyond the Canada line, and is about 120 miles long, varying in breadth from one to fifteen miles, covering an area of 600 square miles. It is navigable for ships of the largest size, but the vessels are generally of about 100 tons burden. It is generally frozen over in the winter, so as to be passed on the ice for several months. Salmon, sturgeon, trout, pickerel, &c., are found here in abundance. It receives the waters of Lake George, and discharges itself by the river St. Johns, or Sorelle, into the St. Lawrence. The shores are sprinkled with several towns and many pretty villages. Lake Memphramagog is 27 miles long, and lies mostly in Lower Canada.
7. Islands.—There are about fifty islands in Lake Champlain. The principal are North Hero, South Hero, and La Motte.
8. Climate.—The climate is variable, but healthful. The thermometer ranges from 25 below zero to 100 above. The winter lasts from the beginning of December to the
Map of Vermont Extent, 8,000 square miles. Admitted into the Union, 1791. First Permanent Settlement, 1724. Population, 314,120.—Pop. to square mile, 39.26.end of March. In April and May, the weather is mild and showery. In the summer, though the heat of the day is sometimes excessive, the nights are always cool. Frosts appear early in September.
9. Soil.—The soil, exclusive of the mountain ridges, is generally rich and loamy. Along the rivers are tracts which consist of a deep, black, alluvial deposit. These are very productive in grain, grass, and garden vegetables. The hills and mountains afford the best of pasturage for cattle. The state is better fitted for grazing than for tillage. Springs and brooks are numerous, and every part of the state is supplied with running water.
10. Native Animals.—The bear, Canada lynx, wildcat, and moose, are occasionally found in the remote northern parts of the state.
11. Minerals.—Iron is abundant, and lead, zinc, and copper are found in some places. Sulphuret of iron, or pyrites, from which copperas is manufactured, occurs at
Exercises on the Map of Vermont.—Extent of Vermont? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? What river between New Hampshire and Vermont? What lake between New York and Vermont? In which direction does the Green Mountain range run? Describe the following rivers: Otter Creek; Onion; Lamoile; White; Black. Capital of Vermont? Direction of the principal towns from Montpelier?
LESSON XXVII. 1. Characteristics of Vermont? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Mineral Springs? 5. Cataracts? 6. Lakes? 7. Islands? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Native animals? 11. Min-
Strafford and Shrewsbury. Marble of good quality abounds. Oil-stone and slate-stone are found at Burlington.
12. Face of the Country.—The surface is generally uneven and diversified. The land slopes from the Green Mountains to Connecticut River and Lake Champlain. There are numerous plains upon the banks of the rivers.
13. Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the counties of Vermont with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
14. Chief Towns.—Montpelier, the capital of the state, is situated in Washington county, near the center of the state. It contains the state-house, court-house, jail, academy, bank, &c. It lies at the confluence of the two head branches of the Onion River. Burlington is situated on Lake Champlain, near the mouth of the Onion. It is the principal commercial place on the lake, and is a port of entry for foreign shipping. It contains the University of Vermont and a court-house. Middlebury is situated on Otter Creek, and contains a college and court-house. Bennington, near the southwest corner of the state, is noted for a victory gained there by Gen. Stark over the British troops, August 16, 1777. Rutland, in the county of the same name, is pleasantly situated on Otter Creek, near its source. It contains the county buildings, &c. Brattleborough, celebrated for its fine scenery, is a large and growing town on the Connecticut, near the southeast corner of the state. Windsor is a beautiful town on the Connecticut.
15. Canals and Railroads.—There are a number of short canals along Connecticut River, and several important railroads have recently been constructed.
16. Agriculture.—Agriculture and grazing are the chief employments. Wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, &c., are raised. Butter, beef, and cheese are largely produced. Wool is a staple product, and maple-sugar is produced in considerable quantities. Cattle, sheep, and horses abound.
17. Commerce.—This state has no sea-board. Lake Champlain affords facilities for trade between Vermont, New York, and Canada. Horses, cattle, and sheep are exported in great numbers. Iron, maple-sugar, pot and pearl ashes, lumber, marble, beef, pork, and cheese, are among the exports.
18. Manufactures.—These are not extensive, though iron, cotton, and wool are wrought to some extent. Fabrics of linen and woolen are produced in families. Copperas is made at Strafford, in Shrewsbury.
19. Education.—Common schools are general in the towns, and there are numerous academies. There are colleges at Middlebury and Burlington, and a university at Norwich. It is supposed that the average of education is higher in Vermont than in any other state.
20. History—Annals.—Vermont was first explored by the French from Canada, but the first settlement was made at Fort Dummer, by emigration from Massachusetts. The jurisdiction of the territory was in dispute for many years. From 1741 to 1764, New Hampshire claimed it, and granted many townships to proprietors. New York also claimed it, and obtained a grant of it from the British Parliament in 1764. These conflicting claims produced great difficulties. When the Revolutionary war commenced, Congress dared not admit Vermont to the confederacy, through fear of offending New Hampshire and New York; but the inhabitants were determined to be independent, and the British hoped to be able to detach them from the American cause. Vermont had a difficult part to perform; but her sagacious leaders managed to quiet the British, while the colony furnished efficient aid to the Revolution—thus saving themselves from attack. In 1790, New York was induced, by the payment of $30,000, to withdraw her claims; and in 1791, Vermont was admitted into the Union.
21. Battle of Bennington.—As Gen. Burgoyne was marching southward, in 1778, with his army of 7000 men, he found himself, on reaching Fort Edward, much straitened for supplies. He therefore dispatched Col. Baum, with 500 men, to seize a quantity of stores which the Americans had collected at Bennington, thirty-five miles southeast of Fort Edward. These were met by Col. Stark and a regiment of New Hampshire militia. A fierce battle ensued, and the British were entirely defeated. A reinforcement sent to their aid was the next day cut to pieces. These events, called the Battle of Bennington, took place on the 16th and 17th August. They greatly embarrassed the operations of Burgoyne, and were one of the main causes of his defeat and surrender in the following October.
22. Ethan Allen.—All the New England colonies, except Vermont, were settled by Puritans, or their immediate descendants. Vermont had a different origin. Many of its first inhabitants were daring, bold, and reckless men, similar to those which have peopled Texas. Of these, Ethan Allen, a native of Connecticut, was a strong example. He was of gigantic stature, and a courage often proceeding to rashness. When the news of the battle of Lexington had spread through the country, Ethan Allen and Benedict Arnold led a number of volunteers from Connecticut and Vermont, and suddenly seized the important fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, May, 1775. So unexpected was the attack upon the former place, that the Americans found the commander in bed. As Allen appeared before him, and demanded the surrender of the fort, "By what authority do you demand it?" said the officer. "In the name," replied Allen, "of the great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." Allen was afterward taken in a rash attack upon Montreal, and carried to England. According to a popular rumor, he was kept in confinement, and made a spectacle for the curiosity of gazers. One of them threw a nail at him, and he bit it in two. After the war, he wrote a kind of bible, called the "Oracles of Reason." In allusion to these circumstances, Hopkins, the satirical poet of Connecticut, thus spoke of him: "Lo! Allen, 'scaped from British jails, His tushes broke by biting nails, Appears in hyperborean skies To tell the world the Bible lies," &c.
erals? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 14. Chief towns? 15. Canals and railroads? 16. Agriculture? 17. Commerce? 18. Manufactures? 19. Education? 20. Annals? 21. Battle of Bennington? 22. Ethan Allen?
61. Characteristics.—This is the most populous of the New England States, and is noted for the enterprise and energy of its inhabitants.
2. Mountains.—The Green Mountains enter the western part of the state from the north, forming the Taghkanic and Hoosac Ridges, which run nearly parallel with each other. The Taghkanic range is near the western boundary of the state: its most elevated peak is Saddle Mountain, 3900 feet high. The White Mountains range the state from New Hampshire a little to the east of the Connecticut. The highest peaks in this range are Mounts Tom and Holyoke—the former 1200, and the latter 830 feet, above the level of Connecticut River, which flows between them. Wachusett, a single mountain near the center of the state, is 3000 feet above the level of the sea.
3. Valleys.—The valley of the Connecticut, which, varying in width, extends through the state from north to south, consists, for the most part, of a sandy alluvion. In the vicinity of Hadley are extensive fields of broom-corn, and the manufacture of brooms is largely carried on there. The valley of the Housatonic lies in the same direction as that of the Connecticut, and consists of alluvial tracts of the same description. The valley of the Hoosac is in the northwest; it consists of an almost uninterrupted succession of interval, about a mile in width, and extremely rich and fertile.
4. Rivers.—The Connecticut enters the western part of the state, and flows south into Connecticut. The tract which it waters in Massachusetts is fifty miles in extent. In this distance, it receives the Deerfield and Westfield rivers from the west, and Millers and Chicopee rivers from the east. The Housatonic rises in the northwest corner of the state, and flows south into Connecticut. The Merrimac enters the state in the northeast, and flows northeast fifty miles to the sea, at Newburyport. In this course, it receives the Concord river from the south. The Merrimac is navigable for vessels of 200 tons to Haverhill, fifteen miles from its mouth. To this point the tide ascends. At the entrance to the sea, the river expands to a mile in width, and forms the harbor of Newburyport.
5. Islands.—Nantucket, twenty miles south of the main land at Cape Cod, is an island of triangular form, fifteen miles long and eleven broad at the widest part. It is little more than a heap of sand, yet it maintains a numerous population distinguished for activity and enterprise. This island is noted for the number of whalers which are sent from thence. Martha's Vineyard, west from Nantucket, is twenty miles long and from two to ten broad. The soil is poor, and the people are mostly employed in the fisheries. The Elizabeth Islands are sixteen small islands south of Buzzard's Bay.
Exercises on Map of Massachusetts.—Boundaries of Massachusetts? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? First settlement? Describe the following: Cape Ann; Cape Cod; Massachusetts Bay; Cape Cod Bay; Barnstable Bay; Buzzard's Bay; Island of Nantucket; Martha's Vineyard. Where do the Green Mountains cross the state? Where is Mount Tom? Mount Holyoke? Wachusett? Where does the Connecticut River cross the state? Where does the Merrimac cross a portion of the state? Capital? Tell the direction of the principal towns from Boston
LESSON XXVIII.—1. Characteristics of Massachusetts? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Islands? 6. Bays?
6. Bays.—Massachusetts Bay, between Cape Ann on the north, and Cape Cod on the south, is about seventy miles in length from north to south, and comprises Boston Bay and Cape Cod Bay. On the southern coast of the state is Buzzard's Bay, about thirty miles deep.
7. Climate.—The cold is generally severe for a short time in winter; frosts occur in October, and snow often falls in November. The rivers and lakes are commonly frozen over for two or three months, and the harbors on the coast are sometimes closed up for a short time by ice. The ice in the rivers breaks up in March, but snow often falls during that month. The heat is excessive for a few days in summer, but the nights are always cool. Cold east winds prevail during the spring months.
8. Soil.—The soil is various, but for the most part well adapted to grazing or tillage.
9. Vegetable Products.—These are similar to those of the other New England states.
10. Minerals.—Sienite and granite abound in the middle and eastern parts of the state, and are much used for building. Marble and limestone are found in Berkshire county. Iron and anthracite exist in the interior. Soapstone, plumbago, and anthracite coal, exist in different places.
11. Face of the Country.—The mountainous region occupies the western part of the state. The middle and northeastern parts are lower, but hilly and broken. The southeast is the lowest part, and is in general level and sandy.
12. Canals.—The Blackstone Canal extends from Worcester to Providence, a distance of forty-five miles. There are several other small canals.
13. Railways.—These are numerous, branching out from Boston in every direction. One extends southeast to New Bedford and Fall River; one south to Providence, and thence to Stonington; one southwest through Norfolk county; one west to Worcester, and branching off to Norwich and to Albany. Several lines extend northwardly.
14. Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the counties of Massachusetts with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
15. Chief Towns.—Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, is the largest town in New England. It is pleasantly situated on a small hilly peninsula on Boston Bay, with a safe and commodious harbor, deep enough to admit the largest ships, and capable of containing 500 at once. The peninsula is connected with Roxbury by a narrow isthmus; with Brookline by a solid causeway of earth; and with Cambridge, Charlestown, and South Boston, by bridges. The Common is a large square directly in front of the State House. This building is situated on the highest eminence in the city. From the top, the view is one of the finest in the world. Faneuil Hall is called the Cradle of Liberty, from the fact that the patriots held their meetings there, in the time of the Revolution. Boston retained the denomination of a town, and continued to be governed by a body of Selectmen, until 1820. Since that period, its concerns have been directed by a city government. Boston, in connection
7. Climate? 8. Soil? 9. Vegetable products? 10. Minerals? 11. Face of the country? 12. Canals? 13. Railroads? 14. Divisions?
[begin surface 262]with Chelsea, forms the county of Suffolk. It is the third city in the United States, as to commerce; its imports amounting to $14,000,000 annually, and its exports to $10,000,000. Lowell, on the Merrimac, fifteen miles above Haverhill, is a large and flourishing town. The situation is well adapted to manufactories, and commands the waterpower of the Merrimac, with a fall of 30 feet. The Middlesex Canal connects Lowell with Boston. Salem, noted for its wealth and commerce, lies on a peninsula formed by two inlets of the sea. The harbor is not of sufficient depth for the largest vessels. The East India trade is mostly carried on from this city. Newburyport is a handsome town near the mouth of the Merrimac. Ship-building, manufacturing, and the fisheries, are carried on here. It has considerable commerce. Gloucester and Marblehead, near Salem, are considerable fishing towns, and have some commerce. The cod fishery is extensive. Charlestown is the site of the Battle of Bunker Hill. It contains the Bunker Hill Monument, an obelisk of granite 220 feet high, the United States Navy-yard, and the Massachusetts State Prison. Cambridge has some manufactories. Harvard University is in this town. Plymouth is noted as the first place settled in New England. New Bedford and Nantucket are whaling towns, and send out more whalers than any other place. Worcester is a large town near the center of the state. It contains the State Insane Asylum. Springfield is finely situated on Connecticut River, and contains a United States arsenal, and several paper and cotton mills.
16. Agriculture.—Massachusetts is the most highly cultivated state in the Union. Great attention is paid to farming as a science. Cattle shows and agricultural exhibitions take place every year, in various parts of the state.
17. Commerce.—Massachusetts has the second rank among the states for commerce. Most of the East India trade is confined to Boston and Salem.
18. History—Annals.—The first settlement was made at Plymouth, by the Puritans, or Pilgrims, from England, in December, 1620. In 1628, the foundation of the Massachusetts colony was laid, by the settlement of Salem
15. Boston? Lowell? Salem? Other towns? 16. Agriculture? 17. Commerce? 18. Annals? 19. The Plymouth
[begin surface 263]and Charlestown. Boston was occupied in 1630. In 1692, these colonies were united. The American Revolution began at Boston. The first regular battle was that of Bunker Hill, June 17, 1775. On the 17th March, 1776, the British evacuated Boston. In 1780, the present Constitution was formed, and revised in 1820. In 1783, slavery was abolished. In February, 1786, the state voted to adopt the Constitution of the United States, by a majority of 19.
19. Historical Incidents—The Plymouth Settlement.—The vessel in which the first Puritans came over was called the May Flower; the place where they first landed, called Plymouth Rock, and still shown to strangers, is a flat stone near the water, in the present town of Plymouth. Soon after their arrival, an Indian, named Samoset, appeared among them, and exclaimed, "Welcome, Englishmen! Welcome, Englishmen!" In a short time, the governor of the colony made a treaty with Massasoit, a sachem of one of the principal tribes in the vicinity. This was kept inviolate by both parties for nearly fifty years.
20. Persecution of the Quakers.—The Puritans had come to New England expecting to live by themselves, and enjoy their own peculiar civil and religious notions, without disturbance; but in 1656, some Quakers arrived from England. They were of a new sect, and the people of the colonies sent them back by the vessels in which they came. A law was passed by the four colonies, imposing the penalty of death upon any of these who should return. Nevertheless, several of them came back, and four were executed. Many others were thrown into prison. At last, however, the obnoxious law was repealed.
21. King Philip's War.—This celebrated contest has been already mentioned. It began in June, 1675, and continued three years. Many villages in New England were laid in ashes, and many hundreds of the whites lost their lives. The very existence of the colonies seemed to be threatened; but the English finally prevailed. Philip was killed, and the power of the savages throughout New England received a blow from which it never recovered.
22. Salem Witchcraft.—This extraordinary delusion commenced at Danvers, then a part of Salem, in 1692. It was a general belief at the time, as well in England as America, that Satan sometimes enters the bodies of persons, and gives them extraordinary powers. Some children in a pious family of Danvers being moved with strange caprices, were supposed to be thus in league with the devil. Other persons were soon imagined to be infected with the terrible mania. Shortly after, a number of these were seized, and thrown into prison. Twenty were tried, and suffered death. A hundred and fifty were imprisoned, and several hundreds were under suspicion. At length the whole community began to ask, "Where will this end?" A little calm reflection showed that the whole affair had been an unhappy delusion.
23. The Old French War—The Revolution.—Massachusetts took a leading part in the Old French war, and also in the Revolution. In Faneuil Hall, the voice of liberty was raised, which spread its electric fire over the country. The battles of Lexington and Bunker Hill were among the first and most inspiring events of the war.
24. Shays' Rebellion.—In 1786, the people of the western counties became dissatisfied with the system of taxation. Headed by Daniel Shays, who had been an officer in the Revolutionary army, they assembled in arms, to the number of 2000, at Springfield. The state raised a force of 6000 men, and the insurgents were dispersed, after some slight skirmishes, February, 1787. A number of persons were killed in the collisions of the two armies, but no one died upon the scaffold in consequence of this insurrection. Shays himself received a full pardon in 1788.
Settlement? Treaty with Massasoit? 20. Persecution of the Quakers? 21. King Philip's war? 22. Salem witchcraft? 23. The old French war? The Revolution? What of Faneuil Hall? 24. Shays' rebellion?
1. Characteristics.—This is the smallest of the states in point of territory, but it is very thickly peopled, and is celebrated for its extensive manufactories.
2. Mountains.—There are no mountains in Rhode Island. Mount Hope, in Bristol, the highest elevation in the state, and once the residence of King Philip, is only 300 feet in hight.
3. Rivers.—The rivers are little more than mill-streams. The Blackstone enters the State from Massachusetts, and runs southeast to Narragansett Bay. The other rivers are the Pawtucket, Patuxet, and Pawcatuck.
4. Islands.—Rhode Island, in Narragansett Bay, from which the state takes its name, is about fifteen miles long, by three and a half broad. It is fertile and well cultivated, and is much resorted to in summer. Newport, one of the capitals of the state, is situated near the southwest point of this island. Prudence and Conanicut islands are in the same bay. Block Island, about ten miles south of the coast, also belongs to this state.
5. Bays.—Narragansett Bay extends more than thirty miles into the state, and affords great facilities for ship navigation, having many excellent harbors. Ships ascend to Providence, thirty miles above Point Judith. Newport harbor, in the channel between Conanicut and Rhode Island, is one of the finest in the world, being safe, deep, capacious, and easily accessible.
6. Climate.—This state enjoys a salubrious climate. The winter, in the maritime parts, is sensibly milder, and the seasons are more uniform, than in the rest of New England. The heat of summer is much alleviated by refreshing sea breezes. In other respects, the climate is the same as that of Connecticut.
7. Soil.—On the main-land, the soil is generally a gravely loam, fertile, but difficult of cultivation. Upon the islands, the soil is slaty and productive. There is little alluvial land.
8. Vegetable Products.—There are no extensive forests, but oak, walnut, and chestnut trees are common.
9. Minerals.—Some iron ore, marble, and freestone, for building, are found, and anthracite occurs.
10. Face of the Country.—Although there are no mountains in the state, yet most of the surface is rough. About one-tenth of the whole surface is water.
11. Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the counties of Rhode Island with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
12. Chief Towns.—The city of Providence is situated at the head of Narragansett Bay. It is one of the capitals of the state. Map of Rhode Island. RHODE ISLAND Extent 1,200 square miles. Supposed settlement of the Northmen, A. D. 1000. First permanently settled in 1636. Population in 1850, 147,545.—Pop. to square mile, 122.95. The largest ships can come up to the city, and the trade is extensive. It contains the State House, Brown University, and the Arcade, which is a fine building, used for mercantile purposes. Newport is situated near the southwest end of Rhode Island, and is also a capital. It is a great resort in summer, on account of its sea-bathing, its cool atmosphere, and its excellent sea-food. It has little trade. Smithfield is a flourishing town near the northern boundary, in Providence county. Warwick is a large manufacturing town. Bristol, on Narragansett Bay, has considerable commerce. Pawtucket is a manufacturing village four miles north of Providence. It is partly in Massachusetts, and partly in Rhode Island.
13. Agriculture.—Agriculture is less attended to than in the neighboring states. Grazing occupies the chief attention of the farmers, and fine cattle are raised here.
14. Commerce.—The commerce of the state is extensive and flourishing.
15. Manufactures.—Rhode Island is more largely devoted to manufactures than any other state in the Union, in proportion to its population. The manufactures are cotton, woolen, iron, lace, &c.
16. Railroads.—A part of the Blackstone Canal, between
Exercises on the Map of Rhode Island.—Extent of Rhode Island? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? Describe the following: Narragansett Bay; Rhode Island; Prudence Island; Conanicut Island; Block Island; Point Judith; Charles River; Pawtucket River; Patuxet River. Where is Bristol? In what direction from this are the principal towns?
LESSON XXIX. 1. Characteristics of Rhode Island? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Islands? 5. Bays? 6. Climate?
[begin surface 265]Worcester and Providence, lies in Rhode Island. A railroad extends from Boston to Providence. There is one also from the latter city to Stonington, and another to Worcester.
17. Education.—Common schools are nearly universal, and Brown University, a Baptist seminary at Providence, is of high standing.
18. History—Annals.—This state was first settled by Roger Williams. He purchased of the Indians at Sekonk; but finding himself within the Plymouth colony, he removed to Providence, in 1636. He obtained a patent in 1644. A settlement had been made on Rhode Island in 1638, and this charter included both, under the name of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. After the restoration of Charles II., a new charter was obtained in 1663, which continued as the constitution of the state till 1844, when it was set aside by a new constitution.
19. Roger Williams.—This individual was an English clergyman, first settled at Salem. He appears to have been a man of an original turn of mind, and great independence of thought. He was the first to discover and set forth in a clear light those principles of religious liberty which are now universally acknowledged in this country. Nevertheless, these were strange and offensive doctrines among the Puritans, who, with all their intelligence and virtue, had not discovered the truth upon this great subject. Williams was tried and condemned by an ecclesiastical tribunal in Massachusetts, and was finally banished by the General Court. Thence he departed with a few followers. The place where his wanderings ended, with pious thanksgiving, he named Providence. He gained the confidence of the Indians, and even in times of war, when other white men could not safely venture to approach an Indian settlement, Williams went freely among them, without fear, and without danger. They regarded him as their friend and counselor; and when the great tribe of the Narragansetts, situated near the bay of that name, were invited, by the Pequods, of Connecticut, to join them in war against the whites there, they yielded to Williams' advice, and remained neutral. Being a Baptist, he drew to the Rhode Island colony many persons of that sect. Freedom in religious matters being also adopted, many individuals were induced to settle here. The bitter sectarian feeling which had existed toward Roger Williams gradually subsided, and his own character seems to have undergone a favorable change—mildness, forbearance, and piety appearing to take place of the eccentricity and pugnacity which had marked his early career. He is now regarded not only as the founder of Rhode Island, but, in some degree, as the benefactor of mankind. He died in 1683.
20. Philip of Mount Hope.—This celebrated Indian, whose residence was at Mount Hope, or Pokonoket, in Rhode Island, was the son of Massasoit, sachem of the Wampanoags, mentioned in the history of Massachusetts. His elder brother, Alexander, dying early, Philip became chief of the tribe. The war of 1675, which he provoked, has been already noticed.
21. Dorr's Rebellion.—In 1842, a movement was made in Rhode Island to set aside the ancient charter which had hitherto formed the basis of the government, for the purpose of establishing a more formal and perfect constitution. This gave rise to two parties. One, called the suffrage party, at the head of whom was Thomas W. Dorr, proceeded spontaneously, and without any rules of law, to form a constitution. This they adopted, and, under it, elected a legislature, with Dorr as governor. The other, called the law and order party, took active measures to put down these proceedings, as irregular and rebellious. Dorr fled, but soon returned with a body of insurgents. His followers now assembled under arms, but dispersed on the appearance of the government forces. This occurred in May, 1844. In June, the insurgents reappeared, and intrenched themselves at Chepatchet. Martial law was proclaimed, and a large force was sent against the rebels, but they speedily dispersed. Dorr fled, but returned. He was arrested, tried, condemned for treason, and imprisoned. After a year, he was released; a new constitution having gone into quiet operation by the forms of law.
7. Soil? 8. Vegetable products? 9. Minerals? 10. Face of the country? 11. Divisions? 12. Chief towns? 13. Agriculture? 14. Commerce? 15. Manufactures? 16. Railroads? 17. Education? 18. Annals? 19. Roger Williams? His influence with the Indians? 20. Philip of Mount Hope? 21. Dorr's rebellion?
1. Characteristics.—This state is noted for its numerous schools, and for the intelligence, morality, and industry of its people. It is sometimes called the "Land of Steady Habits."
2. Mountains.—The Housatonic Mountains enter the state from Massachusetts, and extend in a southerly direction along the Housatonic River. The Green Mountain Range, coming from Massachusetts, passes through the state from north to south, and terminates at East Rock, in New Haven.
3. Valleys.—The valley of the Connecticut begins at Middletown, and passes north through the state, being from ten to sixteen miles in width, and extending, within the limits of this state, a distance of thirty miles. This is the richest agricultural section in the state. The Farmington Valley, extending from New Haven north through the state, is fifty miles in length, and from three to five in width. The valley of the Housatonic is from one to five miles in width, and of a rich soil.
4. Rivers.—The Connecticut enters the state from Massachusetts, and flows south to Long Island Sound. It admits of a sloop navigation to Hartford, fifty miles. Its general course after entering the state is south, but at Middletown it bends to the southeast, and continues in that direction. Farmington River rises in Massachusetts, flows southeast and northeast, and joins the Connecticut five miles above Hartford. The Housatonic rises in the western part of Massachusetts, and enters the state near the northwest corner, and runs in a southerly and southeasterly direction to Long Island Sound. It has a sloop navigation of twelve miles. The Thames, formed by the junction of the Yantic, Shetucket, and Quinebaug, near Norwich, empties itself into the Sound at New London. It is navigable for sloops to Norwich—fourteen miles.
5. Mineral Springs.—There are chalybeate springs at Stafford, somewhat resorted to by invalids.
6. Sea-coast.—The whole coast of the state lies upon Long Island Sound, which is an extensive gulf 150 miles in length, and twenty-five miles wide at the widest part. There is a dangerous whirlpool, called Hell Gate, near the west end, where the navigation is hazardous.
7. Climate.—The climate is like that of Massachusetts, though somewhat milder.
8. Soil.—The soil is generally good, but of various kinds. The valley of the Connecticut is, for the most part, a fertile loam. The soil, in general, is better adapted to grazing than to tillage.
9. Vegetable Products.—These are principally Indian corn, rye, wheat, oats, barley, flax, and potatoes.
10. Minerals.—Among the minerals are iron, marble, and freestone, all of which are largely obtained.
11. Face of the Country.—The surface of the state
Exercises on the Map of Connecticut.—Extent of Connecticut? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? Describe the following: Fisher's Island; Long Island Sound. Where does the Thames River empty? Which way does it flow? Tell the same of the Connecticut; the Farmington; Housatonic. Where is Hartford? Direction of principal places from Hartford?
LESSON XXX. 1. Characteristics of Connecticut? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Mineral springs?
[begin surface 267]is uneven, and greatly diversified. There are no mountains, but hills of moderate elevation are scattered everywhere, and there are few level tracts.
12. Divisions.—Connecticut is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Connecticut with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
13. Chief Towns.—New Haven, one of the capitals, and the principal city of the state, is situated on a small bay of Long Island Sound. It contains the State House and Yale College. The coasting trade is considerable, and some whale ships sail hence. Steamboats and a railroad keep up a regular communication with New York. Hartford, the other capital, is situated on the west bank of the Connecticut, at the head of sloop navigation, and fifty miles from its mouth. It contains a State House, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Insane Asylum, and Trinity College. It has an extensive trade. Norwich, at the head of navigation on the Thames, is the third city in point of population. Its manufactures are extensive. New London is fourteen miles below Norwich, on the west bank of the Thames, near its mouth, and has an excellent harbor, which is defended by forts. The trade is considerable, and the whale and seal fisheries are actively prosecuted from this port. Saybrook, situated on the Connecticut, is a flourishing town, and contains several manufactories. Middletown is a pleasant town on the Connecticut, fifteen miles below Hartford. The coasting trade is considerable, and there are extensive manufactories. It contains the county buildings and a Wesleyan seminary. Bridgeport is a flourishing town on an indentation of Long Island Sound. It has some coasting trade.
14. Agriculture.—The Connecticut farmers are distinguished for their skill and industry.
15. Commerce.—Most of the foreign trade has been diverted to New York, but the coasting trade is large.
16. Manufactures.—These are numerous, and of great variety, and the products are sent to all parts of the Union. Clocks, some of which are of wood, are made in great numbers, and sent to Mexico, South America, Great Britain, and even China. The state has also large manufactures of India-rubber goods, cotton, etc.
17. Fishery.—The shad fishery in the Connecticut River is a source of some wealth, and is worthy of notice, as the fish are esteemed the best of the kind in the world.
18. Railroads—These are the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill; New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield; New Haven and Northampton (or Canal); Danbury and Norwalk; Naugatuck; Housatonic; New London, Willimantic, and Palmer; and Norwich and Worcester. The New York and New Haven, the New Haven and New London, and other railroads, form a continuous line along the shore from New York to Stonington.
19. Education.—Yale College, founded in 1700, is one of the oldest institutions in the country. Its funds are small, but its students are numerous. It has an ample library and cabinet of minerals. Trinity College at Hartford, and the Wesleyan University at Middletown, are thriving institutions. This state has a fund of $2,000,000 consecrated to free schools, which are universal in the towns.
20. History—The First Emigration—The Dutch.—In 1631, Gov. Winslow, and some people of the Plymouth colony, visited the valley of the Connecticut by invitation of an Indian chief, with a view to making a settlement there. The Dutch at New York sent a party up the river the next year, who erected a small fort at Hartford. Soon after, in October, 1633, a party of settlers from Plymouth came up the river. When they reached the fort, the Dutch forbade their proceeding further, and threatened to fire upon them. The adventurers, however, regardless of this menace, advanced to Windsor, and established themselves there. The next year, the Dutch attempted to drive them away, but without success.
21. Emigration of 1635.—In this year, a company of emigrants—men, women, and children—set out from towns near Boston, to establish themselves on the Connecticut River. They were sixty in number, and were attended by their cattle, which they drove before them. They reached their destination, but their sufferings were very great.
22. The Charter Oak.—Connecticut consisted of two separate colonies till 1665, when they became one. The charter was granted by Charles II.; but James II. annulled it in 1686, and Sir Edmund Andros came to take it away. It was, however, seized and hidden in a tree, which still remains, and bears the title of the "Charter Oak."
23. The Pequods.—These, one of the most celebrated of the New England Indian tribes, had their seat in this state, and the early settlers suffered from their hostilities for many years. The destruction of this tribe, and their fort on Mystic River, in the present town of Groton, was one of the most tragical events in New England history. Capt. Mason, with some white men from Connecticut, and several hundred Indians, fell suddenly upon the Pequods, who had no suspicion of their danger. The white men rushed into the fort, but were on the point of being overwhelmed, when they set the frail cabins on fire, and the whole village was soon wrapped in a sheet of flame. Six hundred Indians perished—men, women, and children—and nearly all by the flames. The remaining savages were hunted and shot down, like deer in the woods. Two hundred of the whole tribe only remained, and these submitted in despair. These events occurred in 1637.
24. The Revolution.—During the Revolutionary war, several flourishing towns—Fairfield, Danbury, &c.—were laid in ashes by the British troops. New London was burnt and plundered by the infamous Benedict Arnold, in 1781. At the same time, a detachment of Arnold's force attacked Fort Griswold, on the opposite side of the Thames. After a brave resistance, Col. Ledyard surrendered his sword. This was taken from his hand and plunged through his body, and most of the garrison were slaughtered in cold blood. These atrocities left behind them a deep and bitter remembrance, not even yet effaced.
6. Sea-coast? 7. Climate? 8. Soil? 9. Vegetable products? 10. Minerals? 13. Face of the country? 17. Divisions? 13. Chief towns? Capitals? 14. Agriculture? 15. Commerce? Coasting Trade? 16. Manufactures? 17. Shad fishery? 18. Canals and railroads? 19. Education? What colleges in this state? 20. The first emigrants and the Dutch? 21. Emigration of 1635? 22. The Charter Oak? 23. The Pequods? Their destruction? 24. The Revolution?
71. Characteristics.—These states, occupying the middle part of the Atlantic states, have been thus characterized: The Middle States, for wealth renowned, By golden harvests yearly crowned, Exhaustless mines within their breast, Favorites of nature stand confessed! Rich in themselves, still art hath made The world pay tribute to their trade: Rivers, Canals, and railroads pour Into their lap a golden store; While various seas rich burdens bear, To crowd their marts with all that's rare.
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of the Middle States? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? Describe the Delaware River; Delaware Bay; Susquehanna River; Chesapeake Bay; Potomac River. Where does the Ohio River rise? Which way does it flow? What four ranges of mountains in Pennsylvania? What mountains in New York? Boundaries of New York? New Jersey? Pennsylvania? Delaware? Maryland? Direction of the several capitals from Albany?
[begin surface 269]2. Mountains.—These states exhibit the most extensive mountain tracts to be found in the eastern portion of the Union. The Alleghanies, which extend to a width of two hundred miles, in Pennsylvania, and the Catskill Mountains, in New York, both of which belong to the great Apalachian chain, are the most remarkable portions. This table lists the heights of the highest peaks of mountain ranges in the region.
3. Valleys.—The great streams have generally rocky banks, with little interval land; but here and there, extensive valleys occur. The broadest is that of the Hudson, which, in one part of its course, is forty miles wide.
4. Rivers.—The rivers of this region, especially the Hudson, the Delaware, and the Susquehanna, afford peculiar facilities for carrying the products to markets of the great commercial cities. New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore become their depositories. This table lists the lengths of the Hudson, Delaware, Susquehanna, and Potomac rivers.
5. Lakes.—The great lakes Ontario and Erie, which form the northern boundary of the Middle States, constitute an important feature in their physical geography, and largely contribute to their commercial advantages. The small lakes of New York give an additional charm to the scenery of that state, and afford some advantages for navigation.
6. Sea-coast.—This is mostly low, sandy, and level. The principal bays are Raritan, Chesapeake, and Delaware. The latter, fifty miles from its mouth, expands into a bay from ten to thirty miles wide, the navigation of which is rendered somewhat difficult by shoals. Chesapeake Bay, or the estuary of the Susquehanna, is a broad, deep basin, 185 miles in length.
7. Vegetable Products.—The original vegetation of this region is greatly diversified. The soil and climate are peculiarly fitted to all kinds of grain. Wheat here attains its greatest perfection. Apples, peaches, pears, and grapes are abundant, and of the best quality.
8. Animals.—The bear, wolf, moose, and wild turkey are found in the north. In the mountainous tracts of Pennsylvania, the common deer is abundant. The cougar, or panther, raccoon, opossum, pinnated grouse, ruffed grouse, and quail, are also common in some parts.
9. Minerals.—Iron, coal, and marble are the chief minerals. The beds of these are inexhaustible.
10. Climate.—This section enjoys a climate somewhat milder than that of New England; the central portion, being elevated 2000 feet above the level of the sea, experiences severe cold during the winter.
11. Soil.—With such an extent and diversity of surface, there must be every variety. A large portion is extremely fertile, yet there are large tracts which are unproductive. Only a small portion of the territory is under cultivation.
12. Face of the Country.—Toward the sea, the land is a low alluvial level, indented by shallow inlets. Further inland, the country rises into hills and mountains. West of these, the country again sinks into swelling table-lands and valleys. On the whole, the surface of the Middle States is greatly diversified.
13. Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the capitals of the States in the Middle State region including New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, and the District of Columbia.
14. Industry.—Agriculture is the chief employment, and is conducted on a grand scale. The commerce is also very extensive, of which the three great cities of New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore are striking evidence. These have not only a great foreign commerce, but a vast trade with the interior, facilitated by numerous canals and railroads. The manufactures are varied and extensive. Mining, especially for coal and iron, is carried on upon a large scale.
15. Canals and Railroads.—No part of the Union presents more extensive and numerous canals and railroads than the Middle States. These, in connection with the navigable waters, afford extraordinary facilities for travel and transportation.
16. Cities.—The great cities of this region are as follows: This table lists the cities of New York, Brooklyn, Philadelphia, and Baltimore with their populations in the years 1840 and 1850.
17. Distances from New York: This table lists distance from New York of the following cities: Albany, Troy, Ogdensburg, Rochester, Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Trenton, N. J., Newark, Philadelphia, Harrisburg, Pittsburgh, Dover, Wilmington, Del., Baltimore, Annapolis, and Washington.
18. Inhabitants.—The Middle States were settled by people from different countries—England, Holland, Germany, Denmark, and Sweden. From this circumstance, the population has always been more mixed than in New England. Those of English descent are, however, by far the largest class. In some villages, the original language, manners, and customs of the settlers are to be found, with little modification by time and circumstances. In Pennsylvania, there are large masses of Germans, and for these there are almanacs, newspapers, political documents, Bibles, &c., printed in the German language. Still, the English generally prevails.
19. History—The Revolution.—The Middle States were the chief theater of action during the Revolutionary war. New York was captured by the British in the autumn of 1776, and they did not leave it till November 25th, 1783. This city was the residence of the British commander-in-chief, and the center of all the military operations throughout the country.
20. Congress.—Philadelphia was also in the possession of the British from September 26th, 1777, till the 18th of June, 1778. Congress assembled at Philadelphia till it was threatened by the British, in the summer of 1777. After the war, New York was, for a time, the seat of government; and then Philadelphia, till it was removed to Washington, in 1800.
21. Washington.—Washington occupied stations upon the Hudson, and in New Jersey and Pennsylvania, for several years; and his most celebrated displays of generalship took place in battles and skirmishes within the three states of New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania.
LESSON XXXI. 1. Characteristics of the Middle States? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Sea-coast? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 4. Industry? 15. Canals and railroads? 16. Cities? 17. Distances from New York? 18. Inhabitants? 19. New York during the Revolution? 20. Congress? Where did it assemble? 21. Washington?
——The State of New York contains about one eighth of the population of the Union, and Pennsylvania about one tenth.
1. Characteristics.—New York, sometimes called the Empire State, on account of its wealth and population, occupies a fine region, and exceeds every other state in population, riches, and commerce.
2. Mountains.—The great eastern chain of the Blue Ridge, or Alleghanies, enters this state from New Jersey and Pennsylvania. The New Jersey branch crosses the Hudson near West Point, forming what is called the Highlands. The Pennsylvania branch bounds the Hudson River valley on the west, under the name of the Catskill Mountains. The highest summit is Round Top, which is 3800 feet high. In the northern part of the state, there is a range called the Mohegan Mountains. One of its peaks, Mount Marcy, is 5200 feet high.
3. Valleys.—The valleys are narrow, and bordered by elevated land. The principal are those of the Hudson and Mohawk.
4. Rivers.—The Hudson rises in the northern part of the state, and runs south to New York Bay. The tide flows up to Troy, 160 miles; and the river is navigable to Hudson, 130 miles, for ships, and to Troy for sloops. Its whole length is 324 miles. It is the only large Atlantic river in the country, the navigation of which is not closed by its passage through the Alleghany ridge. It is nowhere elevated more than 150 feet above tide-water. Above Troy, the Hudson receives its principal tributary, the Mohawk, which has its sources near Lake Ontario, and a course of about 135 miles, with a descent of 364 feet. The Genesee rises on the table-land near the northern boundary of Pennsylvania, and runs north across the western part of New York, into Lake Ontario. At Rochester, five miles from its mouth, are falls of ninety-six feet; and at Carthage, just below Rochester, falls of seventy-five feet. Above
Exercises on the Map.—Extent of New York? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? What lake between Vermont and New York? Describe the following: Oneida Lake; Owasco Lake; Cayuga Lake; Seneca Lake; Crooked Lake; Ontario. Describe the Hudson River; Mohawk. Where does the Susquehanna River rise? In what part of the state is the Erie Canal? Capital of the state? In what part of the state is the city of New York? Direction of some of the principal towns from Albany? What island at the southeastern part of the state? What Sound separates this from Connecticut? Where are the Catskill Mountains?
LESSON XXXII. 1. Characteristics of New York? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Islands?
[begin surface 272]these, the river is navigable nearly seventy miles, for boats. The other rivers, which have their whole course in New York, are the Racket, Black, Saranac, Oswegatchie, Oswego, and Chenango. They are from 40 to 120 miles in length. The Alleghany, Susquehanna, and Delaware have their rise in this state, and the St. Lawrence forms part of the northern boundary.
5. Lakes.—New York is noted for the number of its lakes. Lakes Erie and Ontario form part of the northern boundary, and Lake Champlain forms part of the eastern boundary. Lake George lies in the eastern part of the state, and is about thirty-three miles long, by two wide. It empties its waters into Lake Champlain by an outlet three miles in length, with a descent of about 160 feet. Its waters are clear and pure, and it is dotted with over 200 islands. On the table-land, a few miles from Lake Erie, is Lake Chautauque, about 1300 feet above the level of the sea, and 725 feet above Lake Erie. It is eighteen miles long, and from one to three wide, and discharges its waters through the river Alleghany—thus affording a boat navigation to the Gulf of Mexico. Toward the center of the state are Lakes Canandaigua, Crooked, Seneca, Cayuga, Owasco, Skeneateles, Onondaga, and Oneida. The longest, Cayuga, is forty miles long; and the shortest, Onondaga, is seven miles long. Lake Seneca never freezes over, on account of its depth.
6. Islands.—Long Island projects from the Atlantic opposite the southern shore of Connecticut, a distance of 120 miles. Its greatest breadth is twenty miles. The east end of the island is least settled, and deer, wild-fowl, and fish are found there. In the western part are some fine orchards, and the Newtown pippins are much celebrated. Staten Island, at the mouth of New York harbor, is separated from Long Island by the Narrows. It is eighteen miles long, and seven broad. Manhattan, or New York Island, at the mouth of the Hudson, fifteen miles in length, with an average breadth of one mile and a half, contains New York city. Fisher's and Gardiner's islands are in the Atlantic, at the east end of Long Island; and Grand Island is in the Niagara River, above the Falls.
7. Sea-coast.—The sea-coast of New York is nearly all comprised in the shores of Long Island, which contains a few harbors, but none that are much frequented by shipping. The bay or harbor of New York is safe and capacious; its boundaries toward the sea are Staten and Long Islands; it extends nine miles below the city, and is from a mile and a half to five miles broad; it contains several small islands, on which are fortifications. The Hudson enters this bay from the north. The East River, or channel between New York and Long Island, connects it with Long Island Sound on the east. The Kills, a strait between Staten Island and the Jersey shore, communicates with Newark Bay and Raritan River on the west, and the Narrows open into the Atlantic toward the south. At low water, the entrance of large ships at the Narrows is difficult, and the entrance from the Sound is obstructed by the rocky strait of Hell Gate. Great South Bay is formed by a sandy beach some two miles from the shore, on the south side of Long Island, and running nearly its whole length, with several inlets. Peconic Bay is at the east end of Long Island, between the two points. Within this bay is Sag Harbor.
8. Harbors on the Lakes.—There are several harbors on Lake Ontario, the most noted of which are Socket's Harbor and Oswego. The former is deep and safe. It was an important naval station in the war of 1812. Buffalo has a commanding port at the eastern end of Lake Erie. Dunkirk has a safe harbor on the same lake.
9. Face of the Country.—The eastern part of this state is mountainous, and the western part moderately uneven. The Alluvial Way, extending from the Niagara River to Rochester, seventy-eight miles in length, fifty to 100 feet broad, thirty feet above the surrounding country, and 140 above Lake Ontario, near which it rises, is a remarkable natural curiosity. It is composed of shells and beach sand, and is now the site of an excellent road.
10. Soil.—This is various, but may be characterized as generally good. The western valleys are in the highest degree productive.
11. Climate.—In a territory extending 400 miles, there must be considerable varieties of climate. In the city of New York and the vicinity, the sea air renders the climate moist and mild. Along the St. Lawrence, the country is elevated and mountainous, and the winters are long and severe. The southern and middle portions, from the Hudson to Lake Erie, have a mild climate, with prevalent southerly winds.
Falls of Niagara. Image of Niagara Falls.12. Cataracts.—The Falls of Niagara, which are partly in this state, form the most stupendous cataract in the world. The waters, accumulated from the great upper lakes, forming a river about three-quarters of a mile in width, are suddenly contracted, and plunge over the rocks, in two columns, to the depth of 160 feet. The shock causes the earth to tremble for a considerable distance around, and a cloud of vapor rises over the spot, which is sometimes visible for sixty or seventy miles. The Falls of Trenton, twelve miles north of Utica, are esteemed among the finest in the world. The Cohoes Falls are formed by the passage of the Mohawk over a wall of rock, in one sheet, sixty-two feet high. At Rochester, the Genesee has a fall of 96 feet. At Ithaca, Fall Creek has a descent of 438 feet in the space of a mile. The Cauterskill Falls are a beautiful cascade of great elevation, in the Highlands.
13. Natural Scenery.—The lakes George, Cayuga, Seneca, &c., are beautiful sheets of water, and renowned for the charming landscapes along their banks. The scenery of the Hudson River is grand and beautiful.
14. Mineral Springs.—The mineral springs of Ballston and Saratoga are the resort of invalids at all seasons, and of the fashionable world during summer. The salt
7. Sea-coast? 8. Harbors on Lake Ontario? 9. Face of the country? 10. Soil? 11. Climate? 12. Cataracts? 13. Natural
[begin surface 273]springs near Syracuse annually yield four million bushels of salt. Sharon Springs, in Schoharie county, are much resorted to by invalids.
15. Minerals.—Gypsum is found on the Cayuga Lake, marble at Sing Sing, iron in several places, and petrolium, under the name of Genesee oil, occurs in the west.
16. Vegetable Products.—The mountains are covered with evergreens; the western part of the state presents forests of the largest growth. All kinds of grain are produced in abundance, as well as the fruits of this latitude.
17. Native Animals.—The moose is found along the St. Lawrence. Bears, wolves, racoons, foxes, wild turkeys, and the common deer, are met with in some parts of the state.
18. Agriculture.—This is the chief employment, and is conducted on a great scale.
19. Manufactures.—These are in great variety, and very extensive; they are also increasing.
20. Commerce.—This state is the first in the Union, as to the extent of its commerce.
21. Canals.—The Hudson River and Erie Canal, the first and most important great enterprise of the kind in the United States, opens a water communication from the sea to the great lakes—thus affording an outlet for the immense products of the interior. There are several other very important canals, and many of minor consequence.
22. Railroads.—Railroads extend in every direction—from the city of New York to New England, to Albany and Troy, and thence to Canada and the great west, to the south, etc. The principal are—the Hudson River, the Harlem, the Northern, the Central, and the New York and Erie, and numerous other magnificent railroads diverging from and connecting with these.
23. Steamboat Navigation.—This was first established by Fulton on the Hudson; and here are the finest river steamboats in the world. The number of passengers transported on this stream by steamboats is several millions annually.
24. Education.—The state in 1850 had 11,580 public schools, attended by 675,221 scholars; 883 academies, attended by 49,262 pupils, and 18 colleges, attended by 2673 students. Columbia College and the University, in the city of New York, stand at the head of literary institutions.
25. Divisions.—The state of New York is divided into fifty-nine counties, as follows: This table lists the counties of New York with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total. The whole number of townships is about 800. There are over 100 incorporated villages, many of which have names different from towns in which they are situated.
Image of the city plan of New York City. Plan of the City of New York.26. Chief Towns—City of New York.—This is situated on an island about fifteen miles in length, which divides the Hudson into two branches. To the southwest lies the bay, nearly encircled by land, entered from the sea by a passage called the Narrows. The harbor is one of the finest in the world. The multitude of vessels which surround the city, whose masts look like a forest stripped of its leaves, with the steamboats constantly arriving and departing, give evidence of the activity and extent of the trade and commerce which center in this great metropolis.
scenery? 14. Mineral springs? 15. Minerals? 16. Vegetable products? 17. Native animals? 18. Agriculture? 19. Manufactures? 20. Commerce? 21. Canals? 22. Railroads? 23. Steamboat navigation? 24. Education? 25. Divisions?
[begin surface 274]New York is, in fact, the chief city of the western continent, and one of the greatest commercial places in the world. Standing at the mouth of the Hudson, it receives the produce not only of the greater part of the state of New York, but wheat, flour, beef, pork, and other articles, from the prolific borders of the great lakes. By means of its various rivers, canals, and railroads, it not only receives the wealth of a vast territory, but it distributes over the same regions the merchandise and manufactures collected from every quarter of the world. The commerce of New York, by sea, is conducted on a vast scale. Regular lines of packets are established, which run to Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Charleston, New Orleans, the West Indies, London, Havre, &c. There is hardly a sea in the world which is not dotted by the ships of New York. Among the curious and interesting objects in this city, we may mention Broadway, one of the finest streets in the world; the Park, which is ornamented by the City Hall; a splendid fountain, belonging to the Croton Aqueduct, which is forty-one miles long, and supplies the city with abundance of excellent water; the Battery, which is a handsome promenade skirted by the Bay; the Exchange, a noble edifice in Wall street; Trinity Church, the finest Gothic structure in the western hemisphere, &c.
27. Brooklyn.—The state of New York is remarkable for the number of its flourishing towns, and their rapid growth and prosperity. Among these, in addition to the metropolis, just described, we may mention Brooklyn, on Long Island, opposite New York. It is the seat of the navy-yard, is a fine and flourishing city, and the second place in the state as to population.
28. Towns along the Hudson.—Albany, the capital, occupies a steep declivity on the western bank of the river, at the beginning of the Erie and Champlain Canals, and several railroads, which extend into the interior. It is an old and rich town, with a substantial trade. Poughkeepsie, the chief town of Dutchess county, is noted for its agricultural wealth. Newburg is the chief depot of the celebrated butter and cheese of Orange county. Here is the house occupied by Washington, as his headquarters, for several years, during the Revolutionary war. West Point is famous for its charming scenery and military academy. Hudson is an old trading town, which has some ships engaged in the whale fishery. Troy has risen into importance within the last thirty years, and is the seat of an active inland trade.
29. Towns along the Erie Canal.—Among these we may mention Schenectady, the seat of Union College; Utica, a beautiful and thriving town, near the center of the state; Syracuse and Salina, famous for their salt-works; Rochester, renowned as having become a great city, where an unbroken forest existed forty years ago; Lockport, where the canal descends by five double locks; and Buffalo, the chief port of Lake Erie, doubtless destined to be one of the great cities of this continent.
30. Other Noted Towns.—Among these are Auburn, the seat of a celebrated state-prison; Geneva, interesting for its college and its delightful situation; Canandaigua, remarkable for its wealth and beauty; Saratoga and Ballston, noted for their mineral springs; Palmyra, Brockport, Albion, Batavia, &c., for their sudden growth and prosperity.
Chief Towns: This table lists population in 1850 of the following cities: New York, Brooklyn, Albany, Buffalo, Rochester, Williamsburg, Troy, Utica, Poughkeepsie, and Newburgh.
Distances from N. York: This table lists distance from New York of the following cities: Albany, Buffalo, Schenectady, Utica, Hudson, Poughkeepsie, Ellicottville, and Dunkirk.
31. History—Annals.—Hudson River was discovered by the Dutch in 1609, and Manhattan Island, on which New York city stands, was first settled by some Dutch people, in 1612. Numerous settlers came over from Holland, and the colony was soon in a flourishing condition. It was claimed by the British that the territory belonged to them, and that the settlement by the Dutch was an intrusion: hence they captured it, as before stated, in 1664, and though the Dutch retook it in 1673, it was restored the year after, and continued one of the British colonies till the Revolution.
32. The Six Nations.—The western part of this state was the chief seat of a powerful Indian confederacy called the Six Nations. During the wars with the French, they gave great trouble to the settlers of New York; and, in one instance, laid Schenectady in ashes, and butchered the greater part of the inhabitants. During the Revolution, they took part with the British, and inflicted terrible ravages; but they suffered a severe retaliation. Gen. Sullivan marched against them in 1779, and made their thriving villages and cornfields a scene of ruin and desolation. A few remnants of these tribes still remain in the western part of the state.
33. Burgoyne's Surrender.—One of the most memorable events in the history of our country, the capture of Burgoyne and his army, already noticed, occurred in this state. It took place near Saratoga, on the 18th day of October, 1777, and served to rouse the spirits of the nation, which had sunk to the lowest ebb, in consequence of repeated defeats, and the successes of the enemy.
Narrow map of the Hudson river and the towns and regions immediately bordering it.26. City of New York? 27. Brooklyn? 28. Albany? Other towns along the Hudson? 29. Towns along the Erie Canal? 30. Other noted towns? 31. Discovery and settlement of New York? 32. The Six Nations? 33. Burgoyne's surrender?
1. Characteristics.—This is a small state, but noted for its interesting history.
2. Mountains.—Two of the branches of the Appalachian Chain cross the northern part of this state, under the general name of Blue Mountains. An eminence called Schooley's Mountain, in the western part of the state, is much visited in summer for its fine scenery. There are mineral springs in the neighborhood. The Palisadoes are a rocky precipice of considerable elevation, extending twenty miles along the western shore of the Hudson.
3. Rivers.—The Hudson washes the eastern, and the Delaware the western limit of the state. The Raritan affords navigation for vessels of eighty tons, for seventeen miles. The Passaic is navigable ten miles for small vessels; the Hackensack for fifteen miles, and Great Egg Harbor River twenty miles for smaller craft.
4. Bays and Harbors.—Though this state has a long line of sea-coast, it is deficient in harbors. Newark Bay is a kind of lake, connected by long outlets with the sea. Raritan Bay affords a good shelter for vessels. Delaware Bay, between New Jersey and Delaware, is sixty-five miles long, and thirty wide at the broadest part.
5. Cataract.—The Falls of the Passaic, at Paterson, are formed by the passing of the river over a natural wall forty yards in width, and seventy feet in hight. The scenery around is wild and beautiful.
6. Vegetable Products.—The common forest trees attain a moderate elevation. Wheat, rye, maize, buckwheat, potatoes, &c., thrive in some parts of the state. Apple orchards are common, and the finest cider is made in the vicinity of Newark.
7. Animals.—Some of the smaller quadrupeds abound in the mountainous regions—such as the raccoon, fox, wild-cat, opossum, hare, and squirrel. Deer are not uncommon.
8. Minerals.—The minerals of this state are iron of various kinds, zinc, copper, Franklinite, potter's clay, white sand for glass-making, etc.
9. Climate.—The greater part of New Jersey being open to the influence of the sea air, enjoys a milder climate than New York or Pennsylvania.
10. Soil.—In the northern part, the soil is good for agriculture and grazing. The southern portion is flat, sandy, and in some parts marshy.
11. Face of the Country.—In the north, it is mountainous; in the middle, hilly; in the south, flat.
12. Manufactures.—These are extensive, embracing articles of brass, iron, cotton, wood, glass, &c., &c. Paterson is the seat of the largest establishments. Newark has extensive manufactories of leather, carriages, hats, furniture, trunks, clothing, and a variety of other articles.
Map of New Jersey. NEW JERSEY Extent, 6,857 square miles. The first settlers were Swedes, Dutch and English. First settled, 1624. Population in 1850, 489,555.—Pop. to the square mile, 71.46.Divisions.—New Jersey is divided into— This table lists the counties of New Jersey with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
14. Agriculture.—In the southern parts the barren
Exercises on the Map of New Jersey.—Boundaries of New Jersey? Extent? Population in 1840? Population to the square mile? Describe the following rivers: Raritan; Passaic; Little Egg Harbor; Great Egg Harbor. What river forms part of the eastern boundary of New Jersey? What river and bay form the western boundary? What cape at the southern extremity of New Jersey? What mountains in the north?
LESSON XXXIII.—1. Characteristics of New Jersey? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Bays and harbors? 5. Cataract? 6. Vegetable products? 7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Climate?
THE CHESAPEAKE AND THE GREAT LAKES UNITED.—The waters of the Chesapeake are now united with the Great Lakes. The first boat, through the North Branch (Pa.) and Junction canals arrived at Elmira, N. Y., from Pittston, Pa. She was four days on the passage, and came richly freighted with coal. The arrival of the first boat was greeted with rejoicings by the Elmira people. This new and important channel of internal communication is 18 miles long, was commenced in 1853, and cost about $400,000.
[begin surface 278]THE WHOLE AMOUNT of salt inspected on the Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation, during the year 1856, is 5,968,810 bushels, which falls about 120,000 bushels short of the inspection of 1855. It exceeds, however, that of any previous year, being 160,000 more bushels than was returned in 1854.
[begin surface 279]soil gives little encouragement to the farmer; in the northern and middle portions, great attention is paid to the culture of garden vegetables, fruits, &c. Many cattle are produced, and considerable quantities of grain.
15. Commerce.—The direct foreign commerce of New Jersey is not great, most of the transactions being carried on through the cities of New York and Philadelphia. There is a good deal of shipping owned in the state, and an active coasting trade is carried on from its numerous small rivers and inlets.
16. Fisheries.—On the sea-coast, near Staten Island, are extensive oyster-beds, which are highly profitable. The shad fishery along the Atlantic coast and the banks of the Delaware, is also extensive, and employs a great part of the population in the southern counties.
17. Canals.—There are several of these, of which the Morris Canal, extending 100 miles from New York to the Pennsylvania coal region; the Delaware and Raritan, extending from New Brunswick to Bordentown, forty-three miles, are the most considerable.
18. Railroads.—There are several of these, which afford rapid communication between New York and Pennsylvania, with branches which lead in other directions.
19. Education.—In 1850, New Jersey had 1479 public schools attended by 78,205 scholars; 219 academies—9569 pupils, and 4 colleges—470 students. The college of New Jersey at Princeton is the oldest in the state.
20. Chief Towns.—Trenton, the seat of government, is finely situated on the Delaware, at the head of tide-water. Newark, on the Passaic, nine miles from New York, is a very pleasant town, famed for its manufactures of leather and carriages, and for the cider made in its neighborhood. Elizabethtown, Burlington, Morristown, and New Brunswick, are agreeable places. Paterson is distinguished for its manufactures, situated at the Falls. Princeton is the seat of the college of New Jersey. Amboy is noted for its excellent harbor; and Long Branch is a favorite resort for sea-bathing in summer.
21. History—Annals.—New Jersey was first settled by the Dutch, in 1624. The Swedes, in 1638, purchased the land along the Delaware from the Indians; and in 1640, the English began a settlement within these limits at Elsingburg on the Delaware, but were soon driven back by the Swedes and Dutch. The Swedes built a fort at Elsingburg, and retained possession till 1635, when the Dutch of New York took all their posts, and sent the Swedes back to Europe. The English, in 1664, after reducing New York, turned their arms against these settlements, which immediately submitted. The Duke of York made a grant of the country to Lord Berkely and Sir George Carteret, and the territory was named New Jersey, in compliment to the latter, who had been governor of the isle of Jersey. The seat of government was established at Elizabethtown. The Dutch afterward reconquered the whole country, but soon gave it up. In 1656, the territory was divided into East and West Jersey. In 1702, the proprietors surrendered both divisions to the crown, and they were formed into a single government by Queen Anne. They were ruled by one governor, but continued to choose two assemblies. In 1738, two governors were again appointed. In 1776, the present constitution established the consolidation of the two governments.
22. The Revolution.—New Jersey was the theater of some of the most interesting events in the Revolutionary war. "Terrible times in the Jerseys" was at one gloomy period a proverbial expression. Important battles were fought at Trenton, Princeton, and Monmouth, in all of which Washington commanded in person. The latter engagement, which was one of the most celebrated of the war, occurred at a place now called Freehold, June 28, 1778.
10. Soil? 11. Face of the Country? 12. Manufactures? 13. Divisions? 14. Agriculture? 15. Commerce? 16. Fisheries? 17. Canals? 18. Railroads? 19. Education? 20. Chief towns? 21. History? 22. The Revolution?
81. Characteristics.—This is a large, wealthy, and populous state, comprising the center of the great Alleghany range of mountains, and having the richest coal and iron mines in the country.
2. Mountains.—The Appalachian Chain here spreads to its widest limits, and covers, with its various ranges, more than one half of the state. The greatest width of the chain equals 200 miles. It consists of several ridges, sometimes near each other, and sometimes having valleys twenty or thirty miles between. The Kittatinny, or Blue Mountains, extend from Maryland to New Jersey, and cross both the Susquehanna and the Delaware. The Alleghany Mountains, consisting of a series of ranges, bearing different names, form the great central ridge; the peaks sometimes rising to the hight of 4000 feet above the level of the sea. The name Alleghany is popularly given to the whole system of mountains in Pennsylvania. West of the central chain are Laurel Ridge and Chestnut Ridge. These mountains are, in general, covered with forests, which form the secure retreat of bears, panthers, deer, raccoons, &c.
3. Valleys.—The valleys of the Susquehanna and its branches are very irregular, sometimes spreading out to the extent of fifty miles, and again contracting into narrow and rocky gateways, only admitting the passage of the streams. The scenery here is sometimes exceedingly wild and picturesque. The valleys between the mountain ridges generally present a hilly and broken surface.
4. Rivers.—The Delaware washes the eastern limit of the state, and is navigable for large ships to Philadelphia. The Lehigh and Schuylkill are small streams flowing into the Delaware. The Alleghany rises in the state of New York, and flowing southward, meets the Monongahela, which rises in Virginia, at Pittsburg, where they unite and form the Ohio river. The Susquehanna rises in two branches: the north branch has its origin in Otsego Lake, New York; the west branch has its source in the elevated region between the Alleghany and Laurel ridges. This river is 450 miles in length, and is the largest in the United States, east of the Alleghany Mountains. It abounds in fish, and especially in salmon and shad, toward its mouth. A great part of it is obstructed by falls and rapids, which render it less advantageous for navigation. The Juniata, a branch of the Susquehanna, is noted for its picturesque borders.
5. Lake Coast.—No part of this state lies upon the sea; but the northwest corner extends forty miles along Lake Erie, where the harbor of Presqu' Isle, or Erie, affords a haven for small vessels.
Exercises on the Map of Pennsylvania.—Boundaries of Pennsylvania? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What river between New Jersey and Pennsylvania? What great river runs through the interior of the state? Where does the Susquehanna River empty? What two rivers unite at Pittsburg? Where are the Blue Mountains? Alleghany Mountains? Where is Laurel Ridge? Chestnut Ridge? Capital of Pennsylvania? Direction of the principal towns from Harrisburg?
LESSON XXXIV. 1. Characteristics of Pennsylvania? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Lake coast? 6. Mineral
[begin surface 296]6. Mineral Springs.—The Bedford Springs, near the town of that name, discovered in 1804, are much resorted to for chronic and cutaneous diseases. There are several salt springs in the state.
7. Caves.—In Laurel Mountain is a cavern which has been traversed for two miles. Its roof is covered with thousands of bats. In Durham, on the Delaware, is a cave abounding with pools and rivulets. At Carlisle is another, in which human bones have been discovered.
8. Vegetable Products.—The immense forests of this state present great variety, both of firs and deciduous trees. The catalpa here grows wild, and the laurel becomes a tree. Immense quantities of timber are obtained. The products of agriculture are grains of every kind, in great abundance, with the common fruits of a mild and temperate region. Native grapes are abundant, and the peach here reaches high perfection.
9. Animals.—The bear, panther, raccoon, and wild deer are common in the mountains; squirrels abound; the opossum is common in the cultivated districts. Grouse, quails, and pigeons are abundant. The wild turkey is met with in the wooded districts.
10. Minerals.—Pennsylvania presents a varied store of useful minerals. Among them are lime, marl, sandstone, clays and slates, with iron and coal. The iron is of several species, and wrought to an immense extent. In the west, in the region of Pittsburg, bituminous coal of the finest quality is abundant; to the northeast, between the Delaware and the Susquehanna, there are inexhaustible beds of anthracite coal, which is distributed for fuel throughout the Atlantic states. The annual product of these mines is many millions of dollars in value.
11. Climate.—Pennsylvania has three climates: to the east of the mountains, it is mild, like New Jersey; in the mountains, the winter is severe, with deep snow; west of the mountains, the seasons are steady and mild—the autumn is especially long and serene.
12. Soil.—East of the mountains, the soil is excellent, being enriched by the washings of the hills. In the middle country, the high ridges are rocky and barren, but the valleys are fertile. In the western region, especially near the rivers, the soil is excellent.
13. Face of the Country.—Pennsylvania presents a great eastern and western slope of a level or undulating character. The central region consists of elevated table-lands, traversed by parallel ridges.
14. Divisions.—Pennsylvania is divided into This table lists the counties of Pennsylvania with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
15. Agriculture.—In the east the farms are large and well managed. Near Philadelphia fruits abound. Wheat and maize are the chief staples of the state. Buckwheat, rye, oats, barley, hemp, and flax are cultivated. Great attention is paid to the rearing of sheep and cattle.
16. Manufactures.—These are very extensive, and greatly varied. Those of iron, at Pittsburg and other places, are on an immense scale. Glass, woolen goods, cottons, floor-cloths, edge-tools are among these products.
17. Commerce.—The foreign commerce is centered at Philadelphia. This port has also considerable coasting trade. Its interior trade with the west, aided by canals and railroads leading to Pittsburg and Wheeling, is immense. Large covered wagons of peculiar construction were formerly used for transportation, but the railroads and canals have entirely monopolized this business.
18. Lumbering.—This trade is carried on to a considerable extent, especially down the Susquehanna.
19. Mining.—The mining operations are very extensive, particularly for iron and coal.
20. Fisheries.—The shad and salmon fisheries along the Susquehanna are considerable.
21. Canals and Railroads.—These are numerous, consisting of State Works and those belonging to private companies. The former, begun in 1825, comprise a series of railroads and canals, extending across the country from the tide-waters of the Delaware to the Ohio, and branching off in different directions to every part of the state. The Grand Trunk extends from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, 400 miles. The whole cost of these works was $25,000,000. The canals and railroads executed by companies
springs? 7. Caves? 8. Vegetable products? 9. Animals? 10. Minerals? 11. Climate? 12. Soil? 13. Face of the country? 14. Divisions? 15. Agriculture? 16. Manufactures? 17. Commerce? 18. Lumbering? 19. Mining? 20. Fisheries?
[begin surface 297]are also very numerous, spreading over the state like net-work.
22. Education—Pennsylvania in 1850 had 9061 public schools, attended by 413,706 scholars; 524 academies, attended by 23,751 pupils, and 21 colleges, attended by 3286 students. The University of Pennsylvania and Girard College, both at Philadelphia, are the principal seats of learning; and there are colleges at Carlisle, Canonsburg, Washington, Meadville, Gettysburg, Easton, Lancaster, Lewisburg, Villa Nova, etc. There are also numerous professional schools in the state; and a female medical college at Philadelphia.
Plan of Philadelphia. Image of the city plan of Philadelphia.23. Philadelphia is, next to New York, the largest city in the Union, and in America; and is one of the first for its beauty, its useful institutions, and its various manufactures. It is finely situated between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, about six miles above their confluence. It is built of brick, and the streets cross each other at right angles. It has many beautiful buildings and public squares. Among the former we may mention the Custom House, the late Bank of the U. States, the Exchange, and the Mint. The University of Pennsylvania is one of the first seminaries in the U. States. The charitable institutions are numerous, and some are liberally endowed. The buildings of the Girard College for Orphans are among the finest edifices in the country. Fairmount Water-works. An image of a river, building, and a bridge. Fairmount Water-works, four miles from the city, form an object of interest, as well for the scenic beauty in their vicinity, as for their utility. They raise sufficient water from the Schuylkill to supply the whole city.
24. Other Towns.—Pittsburg, situated at the confluence of the Monongahela and Alleghany, which unite below and form the Ohio, is the center of an extensive trade, and is not only the seat of the principal manufactures in Pennsylvania, but one of the most considerable manufacturing towns in America. Harrisburg, the seat of government, is a handsome place, pleasantly situated on the Susquehanna. Lancaster is a beautiful town, situated in a pleasant and highly-cultivated region, and carries on a large trade with the interior. Reading is an agreeable place, and has considerable trade and manufactures. Pottsville is a flourishing town, which owes its importance to the coal mines in its vicinity. Carlisle, York, Chambersburg, Germantown, Easton, and Bethlehem, are also towns of some importance.
Distances from Harrisburg: This table lists the distances from Harrisburg of the following cities: Philadelphia, Lancaster, Pittsburg, Pottsville, New York, Washington, Cincinnati, and Boston.
25. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants of this state are emigrants from various parts of Europe and their descendants. About one-half are of English origin; one-fourth German; one-eighth Irish; and the remainder Scotch, Welsh, Swedish, and Dutch. The English is the prevailing language, but German is also spoken in certain limited districts. Newspapers, almanacs, and some books, in the German language, are published in this state.
26. History.—The territory of Pennsylvania was granted to William Penn in 1681, a celebrated Friend or Quaker, and in the autumn of the same year a body of Quakers came hither, and began a settlement where Philadelphia now stands. The next year Penn came himself, with other settlers, and laid out the city on its present plan, calling it Philadelphia, that word signifying brotherly love. Penn cultivated peace with the Indians, and consequently the people were secured from the Indian wars which harassed other colonies. Delaware, which originally formed part of the colony, was allowed a distinct legislature.
27. The Revolution.—Several important battles were fought in this state during the Revolution, and Philadelphia was for a time in the hands of the British. Valley Forge, twenty miles northwest of Philadelphia, is remarkable as the place where Washington and his army had their winter-quarters during the most discouraging period of the contest. A terrible slaughter took place during the war, in the beautiful Valley of Wyoming, near where the town of Wilkesbarre now stands. Several hundred of the people, men, women, and children, were slain by an irruption of Indians, headed by a chief named Brandt, and aided by some English soldiers. Campbell has made this the theme of one of his finest poems. The year 1794 was distinguished by what is called the Whisky Rebellion, which occurred in the four western counties of Pennsylvania. It arose from opposition to the tax on spirits distilled in the U. States, laid by Congress in 1791. The insurrection at one time wore a threatening aspect; but Washington issued a proclamation, an army of 15,000 militia marched against the insurgents, and the president himself went to Bedford Springs. These measures were effectual; the malcontents yielded, and the whole affair passed over with the loss of three lives.
21. Canals and Railroads? 22. Education? 23. Philadelphia? 24. Other towns? 25. Inhabitants? 26. History? 27. Revolution?
1. Characteristics.—This is one of the smallest states in the Union, both in population and extent.
2. Mountains.—Delaware is entirely destitute of mountains.
3. Rivers.—These are all inconsiderable. The Brandywine, which rises in Pennsylvania, is a fine mill stream. At Wilmington it receives Christiana Creek from the west, and their united waters form the harbor of Wilmington. Duck Creek, Mispillion Creek, and Indian River flow east into Delaware Bay.
4. Bay, Cape, and Breakwater.—Delaware Bay forms the northeastern boundary, but affords no good harbors. Cape Henlopen is at the entrance of the bay, on the southwest side. A breakwater has been constructed here, within which vessels, navigating the bay, can take shelter, and ride out storms in safety.
5. Minerals.—Bog iron ore is found in the southwestern part of the state, but is not wrought to any extent.
6. Climate and Soil.—The climate is not essentially different from that of New Jersey. Along the Delaware, and about ten miles in breadth, is a tract of rich soil, which produces large timber, and is well adapted to tillage. Most of the southern portion is sandy.
7. Face of the Country.—East and west the land is low, but an elevated swampy tract runs north and south through the center. At the southern limit, this tract terminates in a vast wooded marsh, called Cypress Swamp.
8. Divisions.—Delaware is divided into three counties—Newcastle in the north, Kent in the middle, and Sussex in the south. The counties are subdivided into Hundreds. There are but few slaves in this state. This table lists the counties of Delaware with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
9. Agriculture.—The staple commodity is wheat, which is highly esteemed for the whiteness and softness of its flour. Maize, rye, barley, oats, buckwheat, and potatoes are raised. The state contains excellent grazing land.
10. Commerce and Manufactures.—The foreign commerce is considerable. Flour of excellent quality, and timber from the swampy districts in the south, are the principal articles of export. The manufactures of flour, iron, cotton, wool, paper, powder, &c., are extensive.
11. Canal.—The Delaware and Chesapeake Canal, which leaves Delaware River forty-five miles below Philadelphia, and communicates with Chesapeake Bay by the river Elk, is fourteen miles in length. It is ten feet deep, and sixty-six feet wide. In this canal there is a deep cut of nearly four miles seventy-six feet in width.
12. Railroads.—The Newcastle and Frenchtown Railroad and the Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore Railroad cross the northern part of the state, the latter forming the usual route of travel north and south. There is also a railroad from Newcastle to Wilmington.
13. Education.—In 1850 there were in the state 194 public schools, 65 academies, and 2 colleges. Delaware College at Newark is an excellent institution.
14. Chief Towns.—Wilmington, the principal town in the state, has been incorporated as a city. It is pleasantly
Exercises on the Map of Delaware.—Boundaries of Delaware? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What bay lies to the east of Delaware? Capital?
LESSON XXXV. 1. Characteristics of Delaware? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Bay, cape, &c.? 5. Minerals? 6. Climate and soil? 7. Face of the country? 8. Divisions? 9. Agriculture? 10. Commerce and manufactures? 11. Canal? 12. Railroad? 13. Education? 14. Chief towns? 15. History?
[begin surface 299]situated near the junction of the Brandywine and Christiana, and is well laid out. The Brandywine flour-mills are the most extensive in the United States, except those of Rochester. Within ten miles of Wilmington, there are about 100 mills and manufactories, in which flour, cotton and woolen goods, iron castings, paper, and powder are produced. The trade of the place is extensive and flourishing. The capital of the state, Dover, is a small but regularly-built town, containing the state-house and county buildings. Newcastle, at the termination of the railroad, and Delaware City, at the mouth of the Delaware and Chesapeake Canal, are small villages.
15. History.—This part of the country was first settled by Swedes and Finns, in 1627, and was called New Swedeland. The Dutch, however, afterward annexed it to their colony of New Netherlands, and with that it passed into the hands of the English, in 1664. In 1682, the Duke of York granted it to Penn, and it continued to form a part of Pennsylvania till 1776, though from 1701 with a distinct legislative assembly. It was generally styled, till the period of the Revolution, the Three Lower Counties upon Delaware. View of Baltimore. Image of ships on the water with a city in the background.
1. Characteristics.—This state is distinguished for its fine climate, its navigable bays, and its advantages for commerce.
2. Boundary—Mason and Dixon's Line.—The boundary line between Pennsylvania and Maryland was fixed by actual survey in 1762, by two surveyors, of the names of Mason and Dixon, whence it is often called Mason and Dixon's Line.
3. Mountains.—The western part of Maryland is traversed by several of the Appalachian ridges, which extend but a short distance in this state, and are particularly described under the heads of Pennsylvania and Virginia.
4. Rivers.—The Potomac forms the southern boundary, and the Susquehanna empties itself into the Chesapeake in this state. The Patapsco is a small river, navigable to Baltimore. The Patuxent has a course of 100 miles, and is navigable for large vessels to Nottingham—fifty miles. The Nanticoke and Choptank flow into the Chesapeake on the eastern shore.
5. Bay, Harbors, &c.—The northern half of Chesapeake Bay lies in this state, and contains many fine harbors. Its eastern shore is checkered with islands. Among these are Kent Island, opposite Annapolis, twelve miles long. Along the sea-coast are narrow, low islands, and shallow sounds.
6. Climate.—The western portion of Maryland, rising to the hight of 2000 feet above the sea, forms part of the elevated table-land extending into Pennsylvania and Virginia, and has, therefore, the climate of the more northern states. The low country, on the other hand, has milder winters, and hot, moist, and unhealthy summers. In the region of Baltimore, the climate is the finest in the United States.
7. Soil—Products—Minerals.—There is much good soil in every part of the state. The limestone tracts in the western section are productive in fruits and grain. Bituminous coal is abundant in this region. The eastern part is of alluvial formation, composed of clay, gravel, sand, shells, and decayed vegetable substances. On the low sandy plains cotton is raised. Iron ore is abundant in most of the counties west of the Chesapeake, and is extensively wrought.
8. Face of the Country.—In the counties of the Eastern Shore the land is low and level, and in many places covered with stagnant waters. On the Western Shore, the land is also level up to the falls of the rivers. Above these it becomes hilly, and in the western part is mountainous.
9. Divisions.—Maryland is divided into counties, twelve of which are on the west of the Chesapeake, and the rest east of it, as follows: This table lists the counties of Maryland with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
10. Agriculture.—Wheat and tobacco are the staple productions, but the former is much the most valuable. Some cotton of inferior quality is raised, and, in the western counties, considerable quantities of flax and hemp. Agriculture, in general, is in a low state.
11. Manufactures.—Maryland is one of the principal manufacturing states in the Union. There are manufactories of cotton, glass, and paper, with woolen and grist mills, and copper and iron-rolling mills, in different parts of the state.
12. Commerce.—The Chesapeake and its rivers afford a ready medium for the exportation of all the productions
Exercises on the Map of Maryland (see page 61).—Boundaries of M.? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What great bay in this state? What mountains across the western part? What river separates Maryland from Virginia? Describe the Patuxent River. Where does the Susquehanna empty? Capital? Direction of the principal towns from Annapolis?
LESSON XXXVI. 1. Characteristics of Maryland? 2. Boundary between Pennsylvania and Maryland? 3. Mountains? 4. Rivers? 5. Bays and harbors? 6. Climate? 7. Soil and products? 8. Face of the country? 9. Divisions? 10. Agriculture? 11. Manufactures? 12. Commerce? 13. Canals? 14. Railroads? 15. Education? 16. Towns? 17. Distances from Baltimore?
[begin surface 300]of the state, no part of which lies beyond the reach of an advantageous market. Flour and tobacco are the principal articles of export.
13. Canals.—There are several of these, of which Port Deposit Canal, and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, are the principal.
14. Railroads.—These consist of the Baltimore and Ohio, Baltimore and Susquehanna, Baltimore and Washington, and the Philadelphia, Wilmington and Baltimore.
15. Education.—In 1850 there were in Maryland 907 public schools, attended by 33,254 scholars; 224 academies, attended by 10,677 pupils, and 11 colleges, attended by 992 students. The principal collegiate institutions are the University of Maryland and St. Mary's College, in Baltimore; St. John's College, in Annapolis; Mount St. Mary's, at Emmetsburg. Primary education is, however, by no means universal.
Plan of Baltimore. Image of the city plan of Baltimore.16. Chief Towns.—Baltimore, the third city in the United States, in point of population, lies upon a bay which sets up from the Patapsco, and affords a spacious and commodious harbor. The strait between the bay and river is defended by Fort McHenry. Vessels of 600 tons can come up to Fell's Point, which is divided from the upper part of the city by a narrow stream. Baltimore possesses the trade of Maryland, and of a great part of Western Pennsylvania and the Western States, and is the great commercial mart for Chesapeake Bay. The city is regularly laid out, and well built. The Catholic Cathedral is a large and handsome building, and contains some fine paintings. The Washington Monument is 163 feet high, with a colossal statue of Washington on the summit. The Battle Monument commemorates the defeat of the British, in their attack on the city, in September, 1814. It is fifty-five feet high. Both of these monuments are of white marble. There are also four handsome public fountains, which furnish a copious supply of pure water. Baltimore is one of the greatest flour markets in the world. In its immediate neighborhood there are extensive flour-mills. Manufactures of woolen and cotton, paper, powder, iron, alum, &c., are also carried on. Annapolis, on the western shore of the Chesapeake, below Baltimore, is the seat of government. The city is pleasantly situated on the Severn, and is regularly laid out. It contains the capitol and a United States naval academy. Frederick, the second city in Maryland, in wealth and population, lies in a pleasant and well-cultivated country, on the great western road from Baltimore. It has considerable trade with the back country, and is rapidly increasing. There is a branch road from the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad to Frederick. Hagerstown, in the northern part of the state, is a well-built and thriving town. The neighborhood is fertile and well cultivated. This table lists the populations in 1840 and 1850 of the following cities: Baltimore, Frederick, Hagerstown, Annapolis, and Cumberland.
17. Distances from Baltimore: This table lists distance from Baltimore of the following cities: Dover, Annapolis, New York, Philadelphia, and Washington.
18. History—Annals.—Maryland was first settled by Catholics. That sect being persecuted in England, Lord Baltimore, one of its members, formed a plan to remove to America. He visited and explored the country, and returned to England, where he died while making preparations for the emigration. His son obtained the grant of the territory designed for his father, and gave it the name of Maryland, in honor of Henrietta Maria, queen of Charles I. He appointed his brother, Leonard Calvert, governor of the colony, who set sail in 1633, with 200 settlers, principally Catholics. They purchased land of the Indians, and formed a settlement at St. Mary's, on the Potomac. The colony was increased by refugees from Virginia, and the other neighboring territories, who were attracted by the toleration here given to all religions, and it began to flourish, but was soon disturbed by Indian wars and rebellions. The Catholics were tolerant to other sects, but soon found themselves outnumbered, and became subject to the persecution which they had fled from at home. These troubles, however, were allayed at the restoration of Charles II., in 1660. At the revolution of 1688, the charter of the colony was set aside, and the government assumed by the crown; but in 1716, the proprietor was restored to his rights.
19. Revolution.—At the beginning of the American Revolution, the authority fell into the hands of the people. The existing constitution was formed in 1776.
20. War of 1812.—During the war, a series of interesting events took place in Baltimore and the vicinity. On the 19th August, 1814, the British general, Ross, with 5000 men, sailed up the Patuxent, and marched to Washington, through Bladensburg. They burned the capitol, the president's house, the public library, with many valuable documents; at the same time destroying a good deal of private property. Another portion of the army proceeded to Alexandria, who forced the inhabitants to save their town from destruction by the surrender of all their shipping and merchandise. After this and other similar proceedings, the enemy landed at North Point, September 12, fourteen miles from Baltimore, and marched toward the city. They were met by the militia, and Gen. Ross was killed in a skirmish. A battle was soon fought, after which the Americans retired to their works. The British fleet, meanwhile, made an unsuccessful attack on Fort McHenry. * Apparently discouraged by their ill success, and the threatening aspect of the reception they were to meet, they withdrew on the 14th, and at night embarked and sailed away.
18. Annals? By whom was Maryland first settled? 19. Revolution? 20. War of 1812? * This attack gave rise to the national song of the "Star-spangled Banner."1. Situation and Extent.—This District formerly consisted of a territory of ten miles square, under the immediate government of Congress. It was situated on both sides of the Potomac, 210 miles from its mouth, between Maryland and Virginia, by which states it was ceded to the general government in 1790. It was divided into two counties, Washington and Alexandria, and contained three cities, Washington, Georgetown, and Alexandria. But in 1846, the portion south of the Potomac, containing Alexandria county, was receded to Virginia. The Capitol in Washington is in lat. 38° 53´ N., and lon. 77° 2´ W. In American works it is often used as a first meridian.
2. Surface, Soil, &c.—The surface of the District is undulating, and the soil unproductive. The situation is favorable for commerce, ships of any size being able to come up to Alexandria, and large vessels up to the Navy Yard, in Washington.
3. Washington.—This city became the seat of government of the United States in 1800. It is pleasantly situated on the left or north bank of the Potomac, and on the right of the Eastern Branch, 295 miles from the ocean by the course of the river. The city is regularly laid out, but only a small portion of the ground embraced within the plan has yet been built upon. The principal avenues and streets are from 120 to 160 feet wide; the others are from 70 to 110 feet. Washington is the residence of the President, and other chief executive officers of the federal government; the Congress meets here annually, on the first Monday in December, and the Supreme Court of the United States also holds an annual session here. A Map of Washington County. Pop. of Washington, in 1840, 23,364 in 1850, 40,001 Extent, 50 square miles. Population 1850—51,687.; Population to the square mile, 1033.74. The principal public buildings are the Capitol, the President's House, the four offices of the Executive Departments, in
LESSON XXXVII. 1. Where is the District of Columbia? (See Map, p 60.) Situation and extent? Its history? 2. Surface
its vicinity, the General Post Office, and the Patent Office. On the river below the city is a Navy Yard. The Capitol is a large and handsome structure, of the Corinthian order, and built of freestone. In the north wing is the Senate chamber, beneath which is the hall of the Supreme Court. In the south wing, is the Representatives' hall, a semicircle ninety-five feet in length by sixty in hight, the dome of which is supported by twenty-six columns and pilasters of Potomac marble or breccia. In the east square of the Capitol is Greenough's colossal marble statue of Washington. The President's house is two stories high, with a lofty basement, and 180 feet front, ornamented with an Ionic portico. The grounds around are extremely beautiful. The Washington Monument, now in progress, is to consist of an obelisk, rising from the center of a vast circular colonnade, 250 feet in diameter and 100 feet high. The whole will be 600 feet high—the loftiest monolith in the world. The Smithsonian Institution owes its existence to James Smithson, of England, who died in 1835, and left to the United States halt a million of dollars, "to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." In April, 1846, Congress created a law establishing this Institute, making the president and principal officers of the government the corporation. The building is in the Norman style of architecture, and is an imposing edifice. Its whole length is 450 feet, by 140.
4. Georgetown may be considered a suburb, or part of the metropolis, being separated only by a narrow creek. It is about three miles west of the Capitol, and is pleasantly situated. The Catholic monastery occupies a delightful situation, upon an eminence overlooking the town. Georgetown has considerable commerce; but the navigation of the river is obstructed by a bar just below the town.
5. Education.—Columbia College, in Washington, was founded in 1821, and is under the direction of the Baptists. The College of Georgetown is under the direction of the Catholic clergy of Maryland. There are four public schools in Washington, and many other seminaries. Public attention appears to be strongly directed to the subject of education, in the District.
6. History.—The District of Columbia was ceded by Maryland and Virginia to the United States in 1790, and it became the capital of the Union in 1800, by virtue of a clause in the Constitution. The city was sacked by the British in August, 1814, as already related. The Virginia portion was receded to that state in 1846. It appears to be an historical fact that as early as 1663, the site of Washington had attracted attention, and here a town was then laid out, called Rome. A gentleman by the name of Pope was the proprietor, and the river called Tiber ran through his territory. This stream flows at the foot of the hill on which the Capitol stands, as the ancient Tiber flowed at the foot of the Capitoline Hill of Rome. On the site of the Capitol, the Indian tribes anciently assembled in council. Here they regulated their wild government, made treaties, and declared war. These incidents appear to throw a kind of romance about the city of Washington, added to the wonderful beauty of the scenes presented from the Capitol, and other elevated positions.
face and soil? 3. Washington? 4. Georgetown? 5 Education? 6. History? What occurred in 1814? In 1663?
91. Characteristics.—These occupy the southern portion of the United States, and have been thus characterized: "Here, in a sunny clime, 'mid breezes bland, Bright flowers unfold, and luscious fruits expand. No wintry blast to chill, the magnolia blows, The sweet fig ripens, and the orange glows. Mixed with the sand, or deep in mountain vein, The heedful miners golden ores obtain; While richer stores prolific spring to birth, Almost unbidden, from the teeming earth. Cotton, tobacco, sugar, rice, repay, In this soft clime, the planter's culturing sway."
2. Mountains.—The southern portion of the Appalachian chain extends, in various ranges, from Virginia to Alabama, where it terminates.
3. Rivers.—Most of these are sluggish, flow through a level country, and have their mouths barred with sand. They all run easterly into the Atlantic, or southerly into the Gulf of Mexico, excepting a few which fall into the Mississippi. East of that river, they have their sources in the Appalachian mountains. In Texas, they rise in the northern highlands of that state, and of New Mexico. The Mississippi enters the sea in the Southern States, but the greater part of its course is in the Western States. This table lists the lengths of the following rivers: James, Roanoke, Cape Fear, Neuse, Great Pedee, Santee, Savannah, Altamaha, Chattahoochee, Alabama, Pearl, and Yazoo.
4. Bays, Sounds, &c.—Chesapeake Bay is the deepest and most convenient for navigation in the country. Pamlico Sound is a shallow bay on the coast of North Carolina. From this, the coast presents an even line to the Gulf of Mexico. Here are several small bays, that of Mobile being the largest of those that are navigable. The lagoons of Louisiana are shallow and little available, for the purposes of navigation.
5. Shores and Capes.—Every part of the coast is low and flat. The capes of North Carolina, Hatteras, Lookout, and Fear, are dangerous to navigators, being beset with shoals. The peninsula of Florida may be considered as an immense cape. The Mississippi has formed, at its mouth, by the mud brought down in its waters, a cape forty miles in extent, the extreme point of which is called the Balize.
6. Natural Products.—Here nature exhibits great luxuriance and variety. The yellow pine, producing tar, pitch, and turpentine, and valuable timber; the live oak, the gloomy cypress, the graceful palmetto, the aromatic bay tree, are indigenous to this region. Tobacco, rice, and cotton are the staples of agriculture. Oranges, lemons, and figs are among the fruits.
7. Minerals.—Gold is found in the mountainous regions from Virginia to Alabama. Copper, iron, and coal are found in all the Atlantic states.
8. Animals.—Alligators are met with in the rivers; the rattlesnake and moccasin are common. Hummingbirds, paroquets, the turkey-buzzard, a species of small vulture, are among the peculiar animals. Deer, wild turkeys, grouse, and water-fowl abound in some parts.
9. Climate.—In the low and flat country, which extends from the sea two or three hundred miles inland, the climate is hot and moist. In the elevated regions it is more temperate.
10. Soil.—Some of the richest soils in our country are in the Southern States. The woodlands are alluvial, but there are extensive tracts of sandy, barren land.
11. Face of the Country.—The Southern States consist of a broad slope of generally level land, extending inland from the sea, including a portion of more elevated country in the interior.
12. Divisions.—The Southern States are as follows:
13. Agriculture.—The main products of agriculture are cotton, rice, and tobacco. The owner of a farm, called a planter, does not labor himself, but oversees the laborers, directs operations, and manages pecuniary matters. On the large estates the slaves are generally committed to overseers. Sugar is extensively grown in Louisiana.
14. Commerce.—This has been generally given up to the northern states, but it is securing more attention from the people of the South.
15. Manufactures.—These are becoming more common, and very considerable establishments are now in successful operation.
16. Inhabitants.—The population is chiefly of English descent, though it is mixed in some places. In Louisiana there are many descendants of the French, and of the Spanish in Florida. There are many Germans and some Irish in Texas. The Indians, recently numerous, are nearly all removed to the Indian territory. The negroes,
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of the Southern States? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? Where are the Cumberland Mountains? The Alleghany Mountains? Where is the Blue Ridge? In what state do these mountains terminate at the south? Describe the principal rivers. What great peninsula at the southeastern extremity of the Southern States? Where is Savannah Bay? Apalachee Bay? Pensacola Bay? Galveston Bay?
LESSON XXXVIII. 1. Characteristics of the Southern States? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Bays? 5. Shores and Capes? 6. Natural products? 7. Minerals? 8. Animals? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Face of the Country? 12. Divisions?
[begin surface 321]——The Fincastle Valley Whig says that Samuel Harriston, of Pittsylvania County, is the richest man in Virginia. He owns 1,700 slaves, and they increase at the rate of 100 a year. He is said to be worth $5,000,000.
who form two-fifths of the population, are a separate caste, and mostly held in slavery.
17. Slaves.—These are, in general, humanely treated. Some laws relating to them are severe, but many of these are not enforced. Marriages are rarely any thing more than connections subsisting during pleasure. Their amusements are few—chiefly music and dancing. Slavery is hereditary; the servitude of the mother determining that of the child. A slave cannot make contracts, hold property, commence a suit, or testify against a white. Harsh treatment of a slave on the part of an owner is generally deemed an offence against good manners as well as morality.
18. Food.—Rice is much used. Hominy—a preparation of maize, coarsely broken and boiled—yams, sweet potatoes, and the tomato, are favorite vegetables. The Irish potato is little raised. Bacon is the principal meat. Whisky is the most common spirituous drink.
19. Manners and Customs.—Agriculture is the chief employment, the farms being large, and having the name of plantations. There are few villages, or towns—the people living in a scattered manner over the country. Hospitality and generosity are among the favorable traits of the Southern character.
20. Diseases.—Bilious and intermittent fevers are common in the low countries in summer, from Virginia to Texas.
21. Education.—Education has received little attention in the Southern States. The children of the higher classes are chiefly sent to the North for instruction. The scattered state of population renders a system of common schools difficult, and the poorer classes of whites have few advantages of education. Instructing the slaves is forbidden by law, though public opinion, in certain places, tolerates its violation to some extent.
22. The chief towns are as follows . This table lists the population in 1850 and the distance from Washington of the following cities: Richmond, Norfolk, Portsmouth, Raleigh, Wilmington, Charleston, Columbia, Savannah, Milledgeville, Augusta, Tallahassee, Tuscaloosa, Mobile, Jackson, Natchez, and New Orleans.
23. History—Annals.—The states from Virginia to Florida, were English colonies; Florida was obtained from Spain in 1820. Alabama was originally part of Georgia. Mississippi at first belonged to French Louisiana; afterward it came to Great Britain, then to Spain, and in 1798, to the United States. Louisiana was purchased of the French in 1803; and Texas, formerly a province of Mexico, was annexed to the United States in 1845.
24. Revolution.—Some of the most stirring events of the Revolutionary war occurred in Virginia and the Carolinas. The details of these will be found under the separate states.
1. Characteristics.—Virginia is a large and populous state, noted as being the first of the English settlements in the limits of the United States, and hence often called the Old Dominion.
2. Mountains.—Virginia is traversed by the several Appalachian chains, which have been already described as stretching through Pennsylvania. 1. Southeast Mountain, broken by the Potomac at the conical peak called the Sugar Loaf, enters Virginia in Loudon county, and leaves it in Henry county, at a distance of from fifteen to twenty miles eastward of the Blue Ridge. 2. The Blue Ridge is broken by the Potomac, at Harper's Ferry, and traverses the state in a line of about 200 miles, separating it into the two great divisions of Eastern and Western Virginia. The Peaks of Otter, in this chain, are the highest summits of the Appalachian system, southwest of the Delaware, rising to a hight of
13. Agriculture? 14. Commerce? 15. Manufactures? 16. Inhabitants? 17. Slaves? 18. Food? 19. Manners and Customs? 20. Diseases? 21. Education? 22. Towns? 23. Annals? 24. Revolution?
Exercises on the Map of Virginia.—Extent of Virginia? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? In which direction do the Alleghany Mountains cross this state? Blue Ridge? What great bay lies partly in Virginia? Describe the principal rivers.
LESSON XXXIX. 1. Characteristics of Virginia? 2. Mountains?
[begin surface 323]4260 feet above the sea. 3. The Kittatinny Chain enters the state about twenty miles further west, under the name of the North Mountain, and forming the center of the great plateau or table-land of Virginia, leaves the state under the name of the Iron Mountains. 4. The Alleghany Chain forms the western wall of the Virginia table-land, running parallel to the Blue Ridge, at a mean distance of about forty-three miles. Westward of this chain there is a gradual slope to the bed of the Ohio, but several other chains traverse this section, the principal of which are (5) the Chestnut Ridge, and (6) the Laurel Mountains, which, in the southwestern part of the state, are known under the name of the Cumberland Mountains.
3. Rivers.—The Potomac forms a part of the northern boundary of the state. Its sources are in the western chain of the Appalachian Mountains, not far from the headwaters of the Monongahela. After receiving the Shenandoah, which has a course of 150 miles through the great central valley, the Potomac breaks through the Blue Ridge at Harper's Ferry, and, taking a southeasterly direction, meets the tide at Georgetown. Below this point it expands to a wide estuary, which is navigable for 74-gun ships to Washington, 210 miles from Chesapeake Bay. The winding course of its channel renders the navigation tedious, but it is not dangerous. James River rises among the mountains, and flows southeast into Chesapeake Bay. It is more than 500 miles long, and is navigable by sloops 150 miles, and by boats 230 miles further. The Rappahannock rises in the Blue Ridge, and runs into the Chesapeake, after a course of 170 miles. The tide ascends to Fredericksburg, 110 miles, to which point the river is navigable for vessels of 140 tons. The York is another confluent of the Chesapeake, and, like the last-described rivers, opens into a broad bay in the lower part of its course. The head waters of the Roanoke are in this state. Passing to the west of the Blue Ridge, we find the Great Kanawha, whose most remote sources are between that chain and the Alleghany ridge, in North Carolina. It flows into the Ohio after a northwesterly course of 300 miles.
4. Bays and Harbors.—The outer half of Chesapeake Bay lies in this state, and by its depth and extent, and the numerous fine rivers which it receives, is of the highest use for navigation. Norfolk has a good harbor, in the southern part of the bay, near the mouth of the James, which here forms a spacious haven, called Hampton Roads.
5. Shores and Capes.—The shores are low and flat. A peninsula about sixty miles long, and from ten to fifteen wide, lies on the eastern side of the Chesapeake, and is bordered toward the sea by a string of low, sandy islets. The waters of the Chesapeake enter the sea between Cape Charles and Cape Henry, forming a strait fifteen miles in width.
6. Natural Curiosities.—The Passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge is highly picturesque. The impetuous torrent below is dashed from rock to rock, while the walls of the chasm through which it seems to have burst its way, rise in lofty precipices above, constituting a scene of much grandeur. The Rock, or Natural Bridge, in Rockbridge county, is not less sublime. It is a natural arch of rock, sixty feet wide, extending over a chasm ninety feet broad, and 250 feet high, through which flows a small stream, called Cedar Creek, a tributary of the river James.
Natural Bridge. An image of a natural bridge.In Augusta county, there is a cavern of great beauty and extent, called Weyer's Cave, which, for the distance of a mile, presents a series of lofty and spacious apartments, incrusted with crystals, and glittering with the most beautiful stalactites. The largest room, called Washington's Hall, is 270 feet in length, and fifty in hight. There are several other beautiful and extensive caverns in the limestone region, of which Madison's Cave, in Rockingham county, extending 300 feet into the earth, and adorned with beautiful stalactites, is the most remarkable. There is a lake in Giles county, presenting the singular spectacle of a body of water, a mile and a half in circumference, and one hundred fathoms deep, on the summit of a mountain 3700 feet high. Within the memory of the oldest inhabitants, the bed of this lake was a marshy spot, in the centre of which a small pond gradually formed. A stream, which had its source in the mountain, having ceased to flow, the lake suddenly rose, and, covering the highest trees, ascended to the top of the mountain, where it overflows at a single point. Its waters are pure and potable, and abound in lizards, but have no fish.
7. Mineral Waters.—The sulphurous springs of Virginia have long been celebrated for their efficacy in cutaneous disorders, asthmatic affections, &c. The White Sulphur Springs are in Greenbriar county; the Salt Sulphur and Red Sulphur Springs in Monroe county. The latter has also much celebrity in cases of pulmonary affections. The Sweet Springs in Botetourt county are carbonated waters, and are valuable as a tonic. At Bath, in Berkeley county, there is a Chalybeate Spring; and in Bath county are thermal waters, known by the name of the Warm and the Hot Springs, which are efficacious in rheumatic and cutaneous cases. The former have a temperature of 90°; the latter of 112°.
8. Vegetable Products.—In passing from Norfolk to the Ohio, almost all the native trees, shrubs, and plants of the United States will be found, and the cultivated productions of the northern and southern states are seen to meet in this. Ginseng and snake-root are among the valuable medicinal plants. Sugar-maple is found west of the Alleghanies. Tobacco and wheat are the great staples of agriculture.
9. Native Animals.—The common deer, which has obtained the title of the Virginia deer, is still found in the wooded districts of this state. The opossum abounds. Grouse, quails, turkey-buzzards, and mocking-birds are among the feathered tribes. The wild turkey is also met with.
10. Minerals.—In the western section of the state, limestone and gypsum occur. Iron ore, of the best quality, is extensively distributed, and valuable lead mines are worked in Wythe county. Bituminous coal is also found west of the mountains, and the Salt Springs of the Great Kanawha and the Holston are remarkable for the strength of their brine. The limestone caves furnish large quantities of nitre or saltpetre. In the eastern part of the state limestone
3. Rivers? 4. Bays and harbors? 5. Shores and capes? 6. Natural curiosities? 7. Mineral waters? 8. Vegetable products?
[begin surface 324]is found, which yields, at various places between the Potomac and James rivers, an excellent marble. Iron ore, black lead, copper ore, and gold are also found in this region. The bed in which the last-mentioned metal occurs extends from near Fredericksburg, in a southwest direction, through this and the adjoining states to the south.
11. Climate.—The extent of this state, and the varieties of its surface, produce a great diversity of climate. In the Atlantic country, east of the mountains, the heats of summer are long and oppressive, the spring is short and variable, and the winters extremely mild, the snow seldom lying more than a day after it has fallen. In the mountains, the air is cool and salubrious, and the inhabitants are tall and muscular, with robust forms and healthy countenances. Fires are here used during five months of the year. On the western side of the mountains, the climate is colder than in the same parallel of latitude on the coast. The valley of the Ohio is exceedingly hot in summer, while in winter the river is frozen so as sometimes to be passable on the ice for two months together.
12. Soil.—There are four distinct divisions under which we may regard the surface of this state. 1. From the Atlantic coast to the head of tidewater, on the rivers, the country is low, flat, and marshy, or sandy. This meager soil is covered with pines and cedars; but the banks of the rivers are loamy and rich, and the vegetation in those parts luxuriant. This territory is alluvial, and exhibits marine shells and bones beneath the surface. 2. From the head of tidewater to the Blue Ridge, the land begins to rise, and becomes stony and broken. The soil is much superior to the lowland country. 3. In the valley between the Blue Ridge and the Alleghany, we come to a limestone country. Here the soil lies upon a bed of that rock, and is very fertile, particularly in grain and clover. In some parts the soil is chalky. 4. The western part of the state, or that part which lies between the mountains and the Ohio, has a broken surface, with some fertile tracts; but the soil is generally barren.
13. Face of the Country.—There is little of the surface actually level, except the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, and along the mouths of the rivers. West of the bay, the country gradually rises into hill and dale. The central part is a high table-land, rising in some parts into lofty and picturesque summits, and comprising beautiful and fertile valleys. Westward of the Alleghanies the surface is mountainous and broken, and a large part of that section must ever continue to be covered with primitive forests.
14. Divisions.—The state is divided as follows:
Table showing the population of counties and their major towns, listing populations as White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total9. Native animals? 10. Minerals? 11. Climate? 12. Soil? 13. Face of the country? 14. Divisions? 15. Agriculture?
THE OYSTER BEDS AND OYSTER BUSINESS OF VIRGINIA.—Tide water Virginia contains in its bays, rivers and creeks not less than 2,000 square miles or 1,280,000 acres of oyster beds. Allowing one tenth of a bushel to every square yard, we have upon the jus publicum of our State 619,520,000 bushels of oysters. Those who are ignorant of the subject have no conception of the trade in these bivalves—the extensive fleet of vessels and army of persons engaged in their taking, transporting, &c. Not less than 100,000 tuns of shipping are annually employed in the trade, and at the lowest estimate twenty millions of bushels are taken every year from the rocks and beds, eighteen millions of which are carried outside the boundaries of our State.
It is known that 275 vessels, varying in capacity from 400 to 4,000 bushels and employing 725 men, are employed in the oyster trade of Baltimore. In Fairhaven 80 vessels, varying in capacity from 2,000 to 7,000 bushels, were owned in 1856, which were exclusively employed in this trade, beside a large number which were chartered by its inhabitants during the busy season. It is estimated that nearly 100 vessels in this trade are now owned at the port. The very large number of vessels owned in Boston, New-York and Philadelphia, for this trade, are not known. Six years ago a captain informs us that he knew of 60 in New-York city. Boston is known to have at least 40 vessels. Providence, New-London, Bridgeport, and New-Bedford each own ten sail at least of large vessels, and other smaller places, on Long Island, and elsewhere, own many others. We may assert, without fear of contradiction, that 100,000 tuns of shipping are now employed in the oyster trade.
It is exceedingly difficult to get at the quantity of oysters taken to the different ports from Virginia; but from numberless inquiries in every direction, we are justified in affirming (and we speak within bounds) that 4,000,000 bushels are carried annually from our State to Fairhaven; 4,000,000 to New-York City and vicinity; 2,000,000 to Boston; 2,000,000 to Philadelphia; 2,000,000 (not including those from the Maryland beds) to Baltimore; 3,000,000 to Providence, Bridgeport, New-London, New-Bedford and elsewhere, and 1,000,000 to the South, making a grand aggregate of 18,000,000.
[Norfolk Argus, Jan. 23. [begin surface 326]15. Agriculture.—Tobacco is extensively raised in Eastern Virginia, and sparingly in the southern part of the central valley. Cotton is planted to some extent in the southern and eastern parts, and hemp is raised to advantage on some of the best lands, above tidewater. Western Virginia affords excellent pastures, and is chiefly devoted to grazing. Wheat, maize, rye, oats, and buckwheat are the principal grain crops on both sides of the mountains.
16. Manufactures.—The state possesses great advantages for manufacturing operations, in cheap labor, an inexhaustible supply of fuel, and immense water-power; yet planting and farming are the favorite pursuits. There are some manufactures of cotton and woolen goods, glass, iron, paper, cordage, putty, leather, etc., in the northern and northwestern parts of the state. The Kanawha Saltworks are extensive. Still, the manufacturing advantages of Virginia are not duly appreciated in the state.
17. Commerce.—The commerce of Virginia is not extensive, and consists chiefly of the export of agricultural products. The state receives her manufactured goods, foreign and domestic, principally from northern ports.
18. Mining.—The mining operations for iron, coal, and gold are considerable.
19. Canals and Railroads.—The railroads extend from the coast westward, and the great southern lines also cross this state. The James River Canal is one of the most important in the Union.
20. Education.—Virginia in 1850 had 2937 public schools, attended by 67,438 scholars; 303 academies and other schools, attended by 8983 pupils; and 12 colleges, attended by 1343 students. William and Mary College, one of the oldest institutions in the country, was founded at Williamsburg in 1691. There are several other seminaries of respectable standing, among which are Hampden Sydney College, Washington College, and the University of Virginia
21. Chief Towns.—Richmond, the capital, stands on the north side of James River, at its lower falls, and at the head of tidewater. The town rises gradually from the water, and has a fine, picturesque appearance. The western division occupies an eminence called Shockoe Hill, overlooking the lower town. The capitol is built upon the highest summit, and has a delightful and commanding prospect. Two bridges cross the river to Manchester, on the opposite bank. Most of the houses are of brick, and many are elegant. One of the James River canals here empties into a basin containing a surface of two acres. There is a boat navigation for 220 miles on the river above the city, and vessels drawing fifteen feet of water can come up to within a few miles of the town. Richmond has a very flourishing trade, both inland and by sea, and enjoys extraordinary advantages by communication with a rich and well-cultivated country, abounding in tobacco, grain, hemp, coal, etc. Its water-power, in the falls of James River, is immense, and is used to a considerable extent for manufactures of iron, cotton, flour, tobacco, etc.
22. Other Towns.—Norfolk, the principal commercial town, stands on an excellent harbor, at the outlet of James River, where a branch called Elizabeth River joins the main stream. At Gosport, in Portsmouth, on the opposite bank of Elizabeth River, is a navy-yard of the United States with a dry dock. Petersburg stands on the south bank of the Appomattox, twelve miles above its junction with the James River, at City Point. It is a handsome and thriving town, and has a large trade in tobacco and flour. Fredericksburg is on the south side of Rappahannock River, 110 miles above the Chesapeake. The river is navigable for vessels of about 140 tons; and the trade of the place is considerable. Lynchburg, on the south side of the James River, 100 miles west of Richmond, stands on the slope of a hill, and is surrounded by a broken and mountainous country, abounding in fertile valleys. The town has a great trade in tobacco, and the neighborhood is populous. Williamsburg, between York and James Rivers, was once the capital of the state, and contains the college of William and Mary, a statehouse, a court-house, and a state lunatic asylum. York; or Yorktown, on the south side of York River, has an excellent harbor, and some trade. It is memorable for the surrender of Lord Cornwallis and the British army, in 1771. Mount Vernon, on the western shore of the Potomac, fifteen miles from Washington, is worthy of attention, as the residence of Washington, and the spot which contains his tomb. The tomb into which the body of the hero has been removed is an excavation in the earth, with a plain brick front, but rendered more secure than that in which it was originally deposited, by being closed with an iron door. Wheeling, on the Ohio, is a flourishing and rapidly-increasing town and a port of entry. It is chiefly built in a single street, on account of the proximity of a range of steep hills, on which it stands, to the river. The hills contain inexhaustible quantities of coal. Wheeling is the highest point of the Ohio to which navigation extends at low water. The great road over the Alleghanies, the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, meets the Ohio at this place. Other towns are Winchester, Shepherdstown, Martinsburg, and Staunton, where there is a state lunatic asylum; Lexington and Fincastle, in the central valley; Charlestown and Abingdon, to the west of the mountains; and Charlotteville, the seat of the state university. Two miles from the last place is Monticello, formerly the residence of Jefferson.
23. Inhabitants.—About one-third of the inhabitants of this state are negro slaves, chiefly situated in the eastern part. The colonists of Virginia were averse to the introduction of slavery from the beginning, and its legislatures
16. Manufactures? 17. Commerce? 18. Mining? 19. Canals and railroads? 20. Education? 21. Richmond? 22. Other
[begin surface 328]passed laws to prohibit it; but these were overruled by the officers of the crown, and thus the British government fastened the institution upon the country.
24. History—Annals.—Attempts were made by the English, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, to form settlements on this part of the coast of North America, and the name of Virginia was given to it in honor of the virgin queen. The first colony which proved permanent was established in 1607, at Jamestown, near the mouth of James River, which names were given in compliment to King James. The early colonists suffered much from famine and the enmity of the natives. At a later period (1676), a formidable rebellion occurred, headed by Nathaniel Bacon. This was terminated by the death of the leader, though a state of great ferment continued for a time. The colony, however, continued to advance in prosperity, although involved in the calamities of the French war of 1753. Virginia was one of the crown colonies, having been governed, until the Revolution, by a governor appointed by the king of England. In 1776 a constitution was framed, which in 1830 underwent many and important changes. The right of suffrage, however, continued to be more restricted than in almost any other state in the Union. A convention for another revision is now called (1850).
25. Capt. John Smith.—This individual, whose life was marked with wonderful adventures, was one of the first Jamestown settlers. His energy and skill often saved the colony from destruction. The country around was peopled by Indian tribes, the chief of which was subject to a sachem named Powhatan. On an exploring expedition into the country, Smith was taken prisoner by the Indians, and carried before the king. It was decided that he should die, and preparation was made for his execution. When the fatal club was uplifted, Pocahontas, the young and beautiful daughter of the chief, rushed forward, sheltering his head with her arms, and pleading for his life. Smith was thus saved, and was afterward escorted by twelve Indian guides to Jamestown.
26. Pocahontas.—This Indian princess was ever the friend of the English. When the settlers were near starving, she caused them to be supplied with needful articles, thus saving them from destruction. When a plot had been formed by the Indians for annihilating the colony by a sudden attack, she hastened, on a dark and dreary night, to Jamestown, and informed Smith of the threatened danger. In 1613, Pocahontas was married to a young Englishman, named John Rolfe, an event which seemed to promote a state of amity between the Indians and the English. In 1616, she accompanied her husband to England, where she was treated with much attention by the king and queen, and other persons of note. As she was about to return, she fell a victim to the English climate, at the age of 22. She left one son, from whom some of the most respectable families in Virginia have descended.
27. Presidents of the United States.—Virginia is remarkable for the number of presidents she has given to the United States. Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Tyler were all natives and residents of this state. Harrison and Taylor were also born in Virginia—thus making a majority of the whole number who were natives of this state.
towns? 23 Inhabitants? 24. Annals? 25. Captain John Smith? 26. Pocahontas? 27. Presidents of the United States?
Accidents will occur in the best-regulated families, and rain will come in the best climates in the world, as I have had convincing proof within the last ten days. To be weather-bound anywhere is bad, uncomfortable, tantalising; but to be weather-bound in an inn—and that an American inn in a country-town—is a position which might rouse the gods into impatience. For travelers in most parts of Europe the weather has ceased to have any importance, and for travelers in most parts of the United States, it is likewise a matter of no great moment; but, in some of the Southwestern States—and Mississippi is among the number—it still retains its ancient supremacy. There are some places out of which there are only two ways of getting—in a stage-coach or on horseback; and either of these, when once the rainy season has set in, is attended with horrors that have been unknown in England for one hundred years or more. The stage in this part of the world is unlike its English prototype only in the lowness of its center of gravity and the absence of outside seats. It is about as comfortable, and fully as well horsed, but instead of resting on wheel springs, it is slung on leather straps. It can hardly be called a vehicle. A brig, or a sloop, or a schooner, or a bark, or a "craft" of some sort, would be a much more appropriate appellation. It rolls and pitches and tosses, heaves and lurches, heels over and is taken aback, is thrown on its beam-ends, and, in a word, goes through every description of maritime motions and maneuvers. It travels day and night, sometimes with four horses, often with six, along tracks through the forest which no road-maker save Dame Nature has ever touched—over ruts and holes, and ravines, and through torrents and swamps, and across broken plank bridges and corduroy causeways, and through oceans of mud. It is either upset on a hillside, or breaks down through a bridge, or sticks fast in a quagmire, or is carried away by a torrent, or run away with by horses, at least once in the twenty-four hours, or, rather, once in every trip let the trip be long or short. Men talk of it in bar-rooms, as boatmen in a fishing village talk of craft that have been caught at sea in a gale. They make guesses as to what has happened to it "this time," feeling assured that something or other must have happened to it. Passengers, when they get to their journey's end, tell tales of the road which in England, would make men's blood run cold, but here hardly call forth a passing remark. Long walks on foot, knee-deep in mud, through forests in pitchy darkness; the rush of angry streams through the interior of the vehicle: yawning ravines revealed by flashes of lightning, just as the off-wheels graze the brink; the horrible gloom of swamps on which muddy waters run to and fro in the light of a stormy moon, wiping out all trace of road or bridge, and leaving the luckless Jehu, and more luckless traveler, to the dubious instincts of the horses—all these and more, are incidents of nightly occurrence and daily narrative In no country in which the distances to be traversed were not so enormous, and in which restlessness and love of locomotion were not so prevalent as in America, would stage-coaches, under existing circumstances, have ever been thought of. In the Southern States they combine every danger and désagrément known in traveling, and are only tolerable for their tolerable speed and the partial protection they afford against rain When Winter has once plowed up the roads, they become merely a mockery, a delusion and a snare. The passenger is almost invariably obliged to walk in precisely those parts of the road in which he would pay any sum in reason for a conveyance, and has to perform, in addition, the disagreeable duty of hauling them out of the mud every time they stick fast. Horseback is, after all, that mode of progression which, in the season of heavy rains and long nights, alone suits the rover in the South, who does not want, or cannot have, a railway. It enables a man to choose his own road and his own stopping-places, and nearly bid defiance to mud and torrent. The horse is never upset, never rolls, or pitches, or heaves, or sticks fast. But he is a dear animal out here. He costs double the price one pays for him in England. The sum you lay down for a stout cob would send you to the meet in the old country on a hunter that would do you credit. Cotton—almighty, omnipresent, omnivorous, all-absorbing cotton
—seems to cherish the direst antipathy to the noblest race and the best blood, whether in men or animals. Horses and the Caucasian species flee before it; mules and negroes follow in its track, watch over it, cherish it, and live by it. Mules do all the farm-work in the cotton States. Planters rely on them alone for the cultivation of their crops. The horse, they say is too tender, too delicate and high-spirited to be the fellow-worker or the slave of the negro. The heavy hand and rough ways of the latter would soon quench his fire and dry up his strength. The mule, on the contrary, is too tough and too hardy to be easily broken down. He toils in the cotton-plow, and "hauls" the bales, miles and miles, over roads that might daunt a whipper-in—impervious to abuse, and unflinching under blows and hard work. "Man." said a small farmer to me, in Holmes County, "was not complete without woman, and I guess mules were made to be the helpmates o' niggers." However this may be, in most of the Southern States, little or no attention is given to horse-breeding. Any one who raises "stock" to any extent raises hybrids, as requiring less care, and meeting with a readier market. The best mares are devoted to this purpose. But, in point of fact, nearly all the horses and mules to be found in Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana are brought by jobbers, every Autumn and Winter, from Tennessee and Kentucky, who drive them, in great herds, from town to town, and county to county, and dispose of them along the road, at the various plantations. The prices they ask and get are enormous. A horse that would sell for £20 in England, is considered cheap at £50. Mules of no great size and no great power bring £40 and upward, and they, as well as the negroes, are becoming dearer every year. They general result is, that the saddle-horses are degenerating. Each generation of planters is less and less of a riding generation. There is no open country to hunt over and when they undertake a journey, if they do not like the stage, they generally prefer driving in a buggy to sitting in a saddle. The breed of horses most in favor are heavy-quartered, heavy-shouldered, thick necked, low-bred, but strong roadsters great at dead pull and brilliant in deep mud. Your delicate-limbed English blood would make a sorry figure going through a clearing or over a corduroy road. "But handsome is that handsome does." Cotton and the turf have no manner of affinity.
I must protest, as far as my personal experience goes against at the notion generally current on the other side of the water, that travelers in this country are apt to be baited by impertinent curiosity. As far as I have seen, in no country in the world so thinly settled, and in which a traveler is still, in some sort, a book which his entertainer has the right to read, could a reserved man's reserve be more rigidly respected. You come and go, in the most out-of-the-way place, pass idle, listless dogs in small towns, where every man knows, or thinks he ought to know, every other man for two hundred miles around; you may be strangely dressed strange in voice, in accent, or in manner, but no one ever pretends to feel enough curiosity about you to be unable to conceal it. Your genuine Southerner is too independent and too proud to manifest much interest in other people's concerns. Remain silent and you may sit silent in the most crowded bar-room, as long as you please. Be communicative, and you will find your communications received in a quiet, calm way which accepts freely what is given, but seeks for no more. But I have never witnessed the slightest attempt made to pump any man who did not choose to be pumped. I am certain I could not have ridden three hundred miles through an agricultural district in England, and met with so little rudeness or incivility, and so much positive civility, as I have met with here. You find no deference paid to you because you are better-dressed or carry more marks of wealth about you than the person you happen to be speaking to, but civility is not the less welcome for that. In England, unless known to somebody, you are generally treated as nobody.
Here all distinctions of wealth and station are wiped out utterly by the grand fact that no "gentleman," that is, no free citizen, can refuse to fight another gentleman if a "difficulty" should arise between them, or, in other words, if one or other should see fit to take offence upon the ground of any difference in means or social position. Society, as constituted south of Mason and Dixon's Line, establishes rigid equality of all men before the revolver. Certainly, if dueling be tolerable under any circumstances, it is tolerable under a code of this sort, which recognizes no ground of exemption from its sanguinary requirements. One of the worst features in old Europe lies in the fact that the gentil-homme may inflict the last insult upon a roturier, and afterward refuse to afford him the only means by which, in the eyes of both, the stain may be wiped out, simply on the ground of these differences of caste. In the absence of anything which can be called "society," with its etiquette, its amenities, its softening,
civilising influences—in the absence of all polish, manner, refinement of that nameless, indefinable something, whether fear of the law or of public opinion, or the influence of education, which in England makes most people quiet and inoffensive in their demeanor toward one another, there can be no question the revolver, in the South-western States, has, to some extent, been a civilizing agent. It has taught lessons if not of politeness at least of forbearance, which rude settlers in the wilderness were not likely to have learnt in any other way. In a country in which the law neither can nor will interfere to settle or prevent private quarrels, they must needs be settled by violent means. We hear a great deal of the sanguinary nature of these "difficulties;" but we hear nothing, because we know nothing, of the innumerable disorders, brutalities, and outrages, which, in a country where the police is powerless, except against thieves, must, of necessity, be committed, were it not known that each man carries about him the means of protecting and avenging himself. I suppose roads so well adapted for the robbery of travelers never existed as the roads in the greater part of Mississippi, and yet such a thing as a highway robbery is never heard of. She has still a prouder boast to make. The raggedest, shabbiest, meanest-looking man in the whole community may enter any hotel or place of public resort, and feel as much at his ease, as certain of being put by every one on a footing of equality, of being treated by every one with as much consideration, of receiving as much attention as if he were in his own log-cabin, or as if he drove to the door in a buggy and pair. Whether this be owing to the fact that any one who slighted him would certainly be obliged to fight him, or not, the spectacle is one not to be witnessed in any other country that I know of. I doubt very much if such unadulterated republicanism is to be met with in any of the Northern States. However the wealthy planters may think or write of the "mean whites," [illegible]hey take uncommon good care, at least in this part of the Union, not to show it in their manner toward them.
In their own houses, in entertaining strangers, the small farmers have an amount of self-possession, and even dignity of manner, which men of a corresponding class in Europe never display, and which, in fact, could only be displayed in a country in which differences of rank are unknown. The master of the house takes his place at the head of the table, and says grace, let the fare and the appointments be what they may, with as grand an air as if it were a full-dress dinner-party. They are nearly all more or less what the evangelical world calls "pious," and are divided pretty equally between two sects—the Methodists and Baptists. Itinerant preachers, carrying all their worldly goods in their saddle-bags, pass and repass in all directions every week, and hold forth sometimes in log-chapels, in fine weather in the open air, in case of necessity anywhere. As far as I have been able to observe, however, cant or technical jargon forms a large part of what the audience carries away from these gatherings I have heard respectable men swear roundly, define for what reasons—some of them often, to our notions, atrociously trifling—they would shoot a man down, and the next minute break out into a religious strain with an unction and fervor quite bewildering for one to whom this inconsistency is new. I was sitting before the fire in a farm house some evenings ago, in company with a group of travelers, like myself, overtaken by the storm, when the conversation, as conversation always does in these parts, turned upon negroes, and each declared whether he would or would not kill a slave attempting to escape, if there were no other way to prevent his flight. All were agreed in thinking it proper, under such circumstances, to pepper him with small shot, but one proclaimed, with an oath, that he would shoot him dead on the spot. To my great amusement, I found, in the course of the evening afterward, that this was the most pious man of the party in his talk. He and a heartbroken-looking old woman, who occupied the chimney-corner and was returning, way-worn and disappointed, with her family from Texas, poured out Scriptural consolation to one another for an hour together, his being intermingled with observations addressed to the assemblage generally, in a slightly different tone, upon the price of the land, of mules, of slaves, cotton, and such like. What surprised me in the matter was not that he should be a hypocrite, because hypocrites are plenty in all climes and in all sects, but that he should take so little pains to conceal his hypocrisy, and that his mixture of slang and cant, of pious precepts with tap-room morality, should appear to excite neither astonishment nor disgust among his auditory. This union of puritanical strictness in doctrine with rowdyish laxity in language and behavior, is very common.
The merits of the various preachers form almost as prominent a subject of discussion as the merits of rival politicians, and the good and bad points of the leaders are sometimes discussed with great heat. There is a preacher in the northern part of this State, one of whose sermons, as I was assured, having come under the notice of Mr. Macaulay, the historian, that gentleman pronounced it, emphatically, to be the most finished
piece of English composition he had ever read. Stories of this sort about England and Englishmen are generally told with so much positiveness that there is no use in denying or questioning them. The same man from whom I got the above—and he was a man of standing in his district—likewise communicated a little episode in the life of an "illustrious personage," with which your readers are probably not familiar, nor, I venture to assert, is the Court newsman. It appears that when Mr. John Van Buren—son of the Van Buren of transatlantic celebrity—had the good or evil fortune to represent the United States at St. James's, he proved a little too captivating in the eyes of her Majesty the Queen, who began to reciprocate the passion which she had already inspired in the breast of the bewitching John. The case was a hard one, but the tale is old. State necessities, etiquette, public opinion, John's comparatively lowly origin, and, in short, a thousand and one little impossibilities, forbade the unhappy lover to look for more than sighs and tears, and remembrance. John was recalled in due course; the Queen became the bride of another, and her quondam adorer pines still in bachelorhood over his blighted hopes, for which reason he is known in these parts by the sobriquet of "Prince John;" and it is firmly believed that it is only the stupid mediæval prejudices of a corrupt Court which have hindered him from sharing a throne. The notions about England prevalent among the planters, owing no doubt to the smaller amount of communication with the mother country, though the Anglo-Saxon race is in no part of America so pure as in the Southern States, are often bizarre enough in their way. Most of the farmers are firmly persuaded that Prince Albert is the leading political personage in the State, and does most of the work of Government. "The lords" are currently believed to make the laws, which are supposed to bear very stringently upon the "commoners." One old gentleman told us he was quite sure he couldn't bear to live under our Queen, as he "expected" she would always be "ordering him about:" nor should he very much like to pay a visit to England, because he thought the police would seize on him on landing and make him tell his business. Great surprise was frequently expressed at my assertion that I believed more real liberty was enjoyed in England than here, because in England a man was protected against the tyranny of his neighbors while here he was at their mercy. No matter what length of time I spent in proving my case, I generally found my eloquence was expended in vain. That a man can be as free in the old world as here, is a proposition which sounds to them outrageously absurd. I sometimes ventured to touch upon the custom which prevails here, of expelling, by Lynch law, from the State men who have given utterance to Abolitionist sentiments, in illustration of my argument; and I am glad to say I invariably found that it silenced the readiest and most violent. The only answer to this I found to be declamation upon the horrors that might result from slave rebellion. The fact is, I imagine, that while every man in the country feels it to be necessary to the safety of the existing state of things to prohibit, absolutely and completely, all discussion as to the right of the masters to their slaves, no one likes to establish a censorship of the press by statutable enactment. This would be rather too close an imitation of absolutism. As long as it is only the "mob" or "the public" that maltreat a man for free speech, the credit of the State is saved, while slave property is secured, as "the mob" and "the public" are two booies who have neither character to lose, memory to dishonor, nor history to sully. There is no more disagreeable and embarrassing police duty in despotic countries than that of gagging the press. The Emperor of Austria would, I have no doubt, be only too glad if deputations of "citizens" were to wait upon all persons guilty of uttering sentiments hostile to his government—guilty for instance, of questioning his right to dispose freely of the lives and fortunes of his subjects, and give them twenty-four hours to quit the country. If he could only bring about this state of things, he might safely come before the world as the sworn friend of free speech, and say it was the mob, the uncontrolable, unreasoning mob who stopped men's mouths.
There is in the South, nevertheless, I think, a larger amount of kindly feeling toward England than in the North, except among the cultivated portion of the New-Englanders. There immigrates yearly into the Northern States a large mass of England-haters, Irish and foreign, who growl, howl, and lie against Great Britain as long as their lungs last them. Very few if any of that class make their way into slave territory. The old race, as it landed in Virginia and Carolina, is here still tolerably pure from foreign adulteration, and looks back to the mother country still with much pride and a good deal of affection. Every name one hears is a good old English name, and I have not met an honest farmer yet who was not gratified to learn that his cognomen was a common one on the other side of the water, and who was not visibly delighted to be able to tell which of his ancestors it was who first set foot on the soil of the New World, English born and English bred. And, moreover, I have sat at no fireside without being assured by a thousand tokens that I was all the more [cutaway]
1. Characteristics.—North Carolina is noted for its gold mines, the dangerous headlands along its coast, and its forests, valuable for various purposes.
2. Mountains.—The western part of the state is traversed by several chains of the Appalachian system of mountains; and these, under various local names, as the Stone Mountain, Iron Mountain, Bald Mountain, and Smoky Mountain, form the western boundary of the state. Pilot Mountain is a lofty pyramidal peak in Stokes county.
3. Rivers.—The Roanoke and Chowan, which rise in Virginia, empty themselves into Albemarle Sound, in this state. The latter is navigable for small vessels to Murfreesboro. The Roanoke has a course of 400 miles; it is navigable for small vessels thirty miles, and for boats to the head of the tide at Weldon, seventy-five miles. Above the falls at Weldon, it is navigable for boats, by the aid of canals, 244 miles, to Salem. The Pamlico and Neuse flow into Pamlico Sound. The former is navigable for vessels drawing nine feet of water, thirty miles, and for boats to Tarboro, ninety miles. Cape Fear River is the principal stream which has its whole course in this state. It rises in the north part, and, traversing the state in a southeasterly course of 280 miles, falls into the Atlantic at Cape Fear. It is navigable for vessels of eleven feet draught to Wilmington, and for boats to Fayetteville. The Yadkin traverses the western part of the state from north to south, and passes into South Carolina under the name of the Great Pedee. The Catawba rises in the Blue Ridge and flows south into South Carolina. From the opposite slope of the mountains descend the head streams of the river Tennessee.
4. Sounds and Bays.—The largest is Pamlico Sound, lying between the main land and one of the many islands in this quarter. It is eighty-six miles in length along the coast, and from ten to twenty broad. It communicates with the ocean by several narrow mouths, the most common of which, for navigation, is Ocracoke Inlet. A little to the north is Albemarle Sound, which extends sixty miles into the land, and is from five to fifteen miles wide. It communicates with Pamlico Sound, and with the sea, by several narrow and shallow inlets.
5. Shores and Capes.—The shores are low and marshy, and the navigation along the coast dangerous, on account of the shoals. Cape Lookout and Cape Fear indicate by their names the dread with which mariners approach them. But the most formidable is Cape Hatteras, the elbow of a triangular island, forming the seaward limit of Pamlico Sound. Its shoals extend a great distance from the land, and render it one of the most dangerous headlands on the American coast.
6. Islands.—The coast is skirted by a range of low, sandy islands, thrown up by the sea. They are long and narrow, and inclose several shallow bays and sounds. They are generally barren.
7. Vegetable Products, &c.—A great part of the country is covered with forests of pitch pine. In the plains of the low country, this tree is almost exclusively the natural growth of the soil. It much exceeds in hight the pitch pine of the northern states. The tar, turpentine, and lumber afforded by this valuable tree, constitute one half of the exports of the state. The moisture of the air, in the swampy regions, loads the trees with long, spongy moss, which hangs in clusters from the limbs, and gives the forest a singular appearance. The misletoe is often found upon the trees of the interior. This state also produces several valuable medicinal roots, as ginseng, snakeroot, &c. The rich intervals are overgrown with canes, the leaves of which continue green through the winter, and afford good fodder for cattle. In the mountainous region of the west, oak, elm, walnut, lime, and cherry trees are common. The animals are similar to those of Virginia.
8. Minerals and Mineral Springs.—Iron ore abounds, and is worked to considerable extent. The gold region, which extends from the Potomac, along the east of the Blue Ridge into Alabama, is broader and more productive in this state than in any other. The gold is obtained either by washing, that is, by simply separating
Exercises on the Map of North Carolina.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? Where is Albemarle Sound? Pamlico Sound? Cape Hatteras? Cape Lookout? Cape Fear? Describe the Neuse River; Tar River; Cape Fear River. Where does the Roanoke empty? Capital of North Carolina?
LESSON XL. 1. Characteristics of North Carolina? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Sounds and Bays? 5. Shores
10 [begin surface 350]native gold from the sand in which it is found, or from mines. There are thermal waters in Buncombe county which are said to cure rheumatism and paralysis.
9. Climate.—The climate partakes of the diversified character of the surface. The mountainous region, or western plateau, experiences much of the rigor of the winters of the more northern states, though less long and not so severe. The air in this and the lower midland region is pure and healthy, and the summer heats are tempered by cool nights. But in the low country, the summers are hot and sultry, and the air is rendered unhealthy by the exhalations of the marshes and stagnant waters.
10. Soil.—In the level country, generally, the soil is poor and sandy, with large swampy tracts. The banks of some of the rivers are tolerably fertile, and there are some glades of moist land possessing a black, fruitful soil. West of the hilly country the soil is good.
11. Swamps.—The Great Dismal Swamp lies in the northeastern part of the state, and extends into Virginia. It is thirty miles in length, and ten in breadth, and covers an extent of 150,000 acres; the soil is marshy, and the whole tract is overgrown with pine, juniper, and cypress trees, with white and red oak in the drier parts. In the center, on the Virginia side, is Lake Drummond, fifteen miles in circuit. Many parts of the swamps are impervious to man, from the thickness of the woods and bushes. A canal is carried through it from Norfolk to Albemarle Sound. Between Albemarle and Pamlico Sound is another, called Alligator, or Little Dismal Swamp, which also has a lake in the center.
12. Face of the Country.—The eastern part of the state, for a distance of about sixty miles from the sea, is a low plain covered with swamps, indented by numerous shallow inlets from the ocean, and traversed by sluggish streams, which the low and level surface allows to spread out into broad basins. To this maritime belt succeeds a fine undulating country, irrigated with fresh, running waters, and presenting a surface agreeably diversified with hills and valleys. The western part of the state is an elevated table-land, rising to a general elevation of about 1800 feet above the level of the sea, independently of the mountainous summits, which rise much higher.
13. Divisions.—North Carolina is divided as follows:
This table lists the counties of North Carolina with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.14. Agriculture.—The great diversity of climate produces a corresponding variety of productions. The eastern lowlands yield rice, cotton, and indigo; here, also, the fig-tree begins to appear. In the more elevated region, the northern grains and fruits thrive; wheat, Indian corn, etc., with tobacco, and hemp, apples, pears, peaches, sweet potatoes, and yams.
15. Manufactures.—There are some manufactures of wool, iron, and cotton: the latter are increasing.
16. Commerce.—Most of the produce of the country has been exported by the way of Charleston, South Carolina. Besides the agricultural productions above mentioned, naval stores, or tar, pitch, and turpentine, are exported in large quantities. The principal port of the state is Wilmington.
17. Lumbering.—This is carried on to a great extent for the purpose of taking to market the yellow pine, which is highly esteemed for its beauty and durability.
18. Mining.—The operations of mining are chiefly confined to the collecting of gold. Copper, iron, and coal are also obtained to a considerable extent.
19. Canals and Railroads.—There are several short canals, of which the Dismal Swamp Canal, partly in Virginia, is the most important. The Great Southern Railroad passes through this state, and there are several other lines penetrating the interior, and connecting with those of the neighboring states.
and Capes? 6. Islands? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Minerals and Mineral springs? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Swamps? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 14. Agriculture? 15. Manufactures? 16. Commerce? 17. Lumbering? 18. Mining?
20. Education.—In 1850 there were in the state 2657 public schools, attended by 104,095 scholars; 272 academies and other schools, attended by 7822 pupils, and 5 colleges, attended by 513 students. The University of North Carolina, at Chapel Hill, is the principal literary institution in the state.
21. Towns.—There are no large towns in this state. Raleigh, the seat of government, is pleasantly situated, near the center of the state, and contains several public buildings, academies, etc. Newbern, on the south bank of the Neuse, thirty miles from Pamlico Sound, is a place of some commerce, and is one of the most flourishing towns in the state. It was formerly the capital. Tar, pitch, turpentine, and lumber are the chief articles of export. Wilmington, on Cape Fear River, thirty-five miles from the sea, is the most commercial town in North Carolina. Vessels of 300 tons can come up to the place. In its vicinity are the most extensive rice fields in the state. Fayetteville is a thriving town, at the head of boat navigation, on Cape Fear River. Other considerable towns are Edenton, Washington, Salisbury, Tarboro', and Halifax.
22. History.—North Carolina was first settled about 1650; it formed a part of South Carolina until 1729, under the name of the County of Albemarle. It had, however, a separate legislature from 1715. During the war of the Revolution, some expeditions were made into this state by the British, from South Carolina, and the American forces were defeated at Guilford in 1781.
1. Characteristics.—This is the smallest of the Southern States, yet it is noted for its interesting history, and the number of talented men it has produced.
2. Mountains.—There are a few lofty mountains in the western part, belonging to the Blue Ridge. Table Mountain, in this chain, rises to the hight of 4000 feet above the level of the sea. King's Mountain, in York district, lies partly in North Carolina.
3. Rivers.—The rivers of South Carolina rise in the Blue Ridge, and flow south-easterly into the ocean. In the lower part of their course they are less navigable than near the center of the state, and this character belongs to the other rivers of the Atlantic slope, southwest of Chesapeake Bay. The Great Pedee rises in the northwest part of North Carolina, where it bears the name of the Yadkin, and flows into Winyaw Bay, after a course of 450 miles. The Little Pedee and Waccamaw are its tributaries from the north. The Santee is formed by the junction of the Wateree, or Catawba, and the Congaree, or Broad rivers, both of which rise in the Blue Ridge in North Carolina. The Saluda is a branch of the Congaree. The Edisto is navigable for large boats about 100 miles.
4. Harbors.—Like those of North Carolina, the harbors of this state are generally bad. That of Charleston
Map of South Carolina. Extent, 28,000 square miles. First settled in 1680. Separated from North Carolina, 1729. Population in 1850, 668,507.—Population to the sq. mile, 23.87.is obstructed at the entrance by a dangerous sand-bar; that of Georgetown will only admit small craft. The harbor
19. Canals and railroads? 20. Education? 21. Towns? 22. History?
Exercises on the Map of South Carolina.—Boundaries of South Carolina? Extent? Population in 1840? Population to the square mile? Describe the following rivers: Great Pedee; Lynches; Wateree; Santee; Saluda; Edisto. Capital of South Carolina?
LESSON XLI. 1. Characteristics of South Carolina?
[begin surface 352]of Beaufort, or Port Royal, is the best in the state, but is little frequented. The coast presents numerous entrances, which are accessible for small vessels, and afford facilities for an active coasting-trade.
5. Islands.—The southern part of the coast is skirted by a range of islands, separated from the main land by narrow channels, which afford a steamboat navigation. These islands, like the neighboring continent, are low and flat, but are covered with forests of live-oak, pine, and palmettoes. Before the cultivation of cotton, many of them were the haunts of alligators, and their thick woods and rank weeds rendered them impenetrable to man. At present, they are under cultivation, and well inhabited; and as the voyager glides by their shores in a steamboat, he is enchanted with the prospect of their lively verdure, interspersed with thick clumps of palmettoes, and flowering groves of orange-trees.
6. Vegetable Products, &c.—The indigenous vegetation of this state combines the productions of the temperate and tropical regions, comprising the oaks and palms, pines and hickory. The palmetto, or cabbage-palm, attains the hight of from forty to fifty feet, and yields a substance which is eaten as a salad, and resembles the cabbage in taste. On the islands along the coast is the live-oak, which is so called on account of its being an evergreen; it is a noble tree, with a trunk sometimes twelve feet in girth; its long branches are spread horizontally, and festoons of moss hang from them almost sweeping the ground. The laurel is here seen covered with large white blossoms, shaped like a lily, and a foot in circumference. The long sandy beaches which border these islands toward the sea, are covered with thousands of water fowl. Wild deer, wild turkeys, grouse, rattlesnakes, and the moccasin snake are among the animals.
7. Minerals.—South Carolina is not rich in minerals. The gold region, however, extends through it, and gold to a considerable amount is annually obtained. There is some iron, ocher, marble, lead, potters' clay, and fullers' earth.
8. Climate.—The climate of this state very nearly resembles that of North Carolina; but lying more to the south, and having a less extensive mountainous region, South Carolina partakes more decidedly of the tropical character. Sugar-cane has been cultivated with success in the southeastern part of the state. In the western mountains the air is healthy, and snow lies for some time during the winter. The eastern section has a hot, moist, and unhealthy climate.
9. Soil.—The eastern part of the state is alluvial. The soil is divided by the planters into, first, the tide swamp, and second, the inland swamp, which are best adapted to the cultivation of rice and hemp; third, high-river swamp, or second low grounds, favorable to the growth of hemp, corn, and indigo; fourth, salt marsh; fifth, oak and hickory high land, which is highly fertile, and yields corn, cotton, and indigo; and, sixth, pine barren, which, though the least productive, is the most healthy soil of the low country. A portion of the last is considered as a necessary appendage to every swamp plantation, for erecting the dwelling-house of the planter.
10. Face of the Country.—The coast, for 100 miles from the ocean, is covered with forests of pitch-pine, with swampy tracts here and there. Beyond this is a parallel belt of territory, called the Middle Country, consisting of low sand-hills, resembling the waves of an agitated sea. This tract occasionally presents an oasis of verdure, or a few straggling pine-trees, and sometimes a field of maize or potatoes. The Middle Country is bounded by another belt of land called the Ridge, where the country rises by a steep and sudden elevation, and afterward continues gradually to ascend. Beyond, the surface exhibits a beautiful alternation of hill and dale, interspersed with extensive forests, and watered by pleasant streams.
11. Divisions.—South Carolina is divided as follows: This table lists the districts of South Carolina with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each district and the town's population. The district population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total. The slaves are most numerous in the low country.
Cotton. Image of the cotton plant. Fig. Image of a fig growing on a branch.12. Agriculture.—The inhabitants are almost entirely
2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Harbors? 5. Islands? 6. Vegetable products? 7. Minerals? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Face
[begin surface 353]occupied with agriculture. Cotton and rice are the staple commodities, and are exported in large quantities. Indigo and tobacco thrive well. The cultivation of maize and other corn is little attended to, and considerable quantities of flour are imported for consumption. Other productions are apples, pears, peaches, figs, olives, oranges, yams, sweet potatoes, &c.
13. Manufactures.—These are yet in their infancy. Cotton manufactures are begun, and are likely to increase. There are also manufactures of wool, iron, &c., on a small scale.
14. Commerce.—The exportation of cotton and rice forms the principal branch of the commerce of the state, which is chiefly in the hands of the people of the northern states. Charleston is well situated for foreign commerce, and there is a growing interest in the subject.
15. Canals and Railroads.—The length of railroad completed is about 600 miles, and there are others in progress. The canals are of local importance only.
16. Education.—There are two colleges in this state; South Carolina College, at Columbia, and Charleston College, in Charleston. Several other institutions are styled colleges, but they are nothing more than respectable schools. There are also several academies. The Medical College of South Carolina is in Charleston; and there is a Presbyterian Theological Seminary at Columbia, a Lutheran at Lexington, and a Baptist in Sumter district. The state has for a number of years made an annual grant toward the support of free schools, but they are not efficient or general.
17. Charleston.—The city of Charleston, the second city in the Southern States, is situated at the confluence of the rivers Ashley and Cooper, six miles from the ocean. The harbor is commodious, and has two entrances, the deepest of which admits vessels of sixteen feet draft. Sullivan's Island, at the mouth of the harbor, is a pleasant summer resort. The harbor is defended by Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan's Island, and by Forts Pinkney and Johnson. The city is regularly laid out and handsomely built, and the vicinity is adorned with numerous plantations in a high state of cultivation. It is much healthier than the surrounding country, and the planters from the low country, and wealthy West Indians, come here to spend the summer. It is also resorted to by people from the north, as a pleasant winter residence. Many of the houses are handsome, and are furnished with piazzas; the grounds are often adorned with flowering plants and ornamental shrubs. The squares are shaded with the pride of China, and the gardens with orange-trees. The commerce of the city is extensive.
18. Other Towns.—Columbia, the seat of government, stands on the Congaree, near the center of the state, and occupies an elevated plain, sloping gently on every side. Georgetown, at the head of a bay formed by the junction of the Great Pedee, Waccamaw, and two or three other streams, is thirteen miles from the sea, and has considerable commerce. Beaufort, on the island of Port Royal, is a pleasant town, with a healthy situation, and good harbor; but it has little commerce. Camden, on the Wateree, enjoys a portion of the interior trade, but is chiefly remarkable for the battles fought in its neighborhood during the revolution.
19. History—Annals.—North and South Carolina were originally embraced under the general term of the Carolinas. There were several separate settlements or colonies, but all were under the superintendence of the same board of proprietors until 1729, when they were finally separated. From this period, they were under two distinct royal governments. North Carolina was settled by emigrants from Virginia between 1640 and 1650. Other settlements were made at different places. In 1669 a constitution, formed by John Locke, and modeled after the English constitution, was established over the two Carolinas. It was, however, unsuited to the condition of the people, and never went into full operation. In 1677, disturbances took place in North Carolina, and a feverish state continued for several years, at one period breaking out into open rebellion. The colony, however, continued to prosper. The Indians, who had been numerous and powerful, were gradually reduced to comparative insignificance. In 1711, however, the Tuscaroras and Corees made a formidable attack upon the scattered settlements, killing one hundred and thirty persons in a single night. The combined forces of North and South Carolina at length besieged them, in 1713, in their fort. They surrendered, and 800 prisoners were taken. The Corees remained in the country, and dwindled into insignificance. The Tuscaroras migrated to northern New York, allied themselves to the Five Nations, and became the sixth of that celebrated confederacy. The first permanent settlement in South Carolina was made at Oyster Point, in 1680, which grew up into the present city of Charleston. Wars with the Indians followed, and many of the latter were captured and sold in the West Indies as slaves. In 1684, some Scotch emigrants settled at Port Royal; in 1686, a large number of persecuted French Huguenots established themselves in different parts of the colony. About this period, the people rebelled against Governor Colleton, who was impeached and banished. In 1693, the Fundamental Constitution, framed by Locke, was abolished, and a more republican government established. In 1702, an expedition was sent against the Spaniards at St. Augustine, which involved the colony in a debt of $26,000, and led to the first issue of paper money in the Carolinas. In 1704 and 1715, there were serious troubles with the Indians. At the latter date, there was a general revolt of the tribes from Cape Fear River to the Alabama, headed by the Yamassees. The frontier settlements were desolated, and Port Royal was abandoned. Governor Craven marched against the enemy, and defeated them in a bloody battle upon the banks of the Salkehatchie. This terminated the war, the Yamassees retiring to Florida.
20. Revolutionary War.—In 1780 and 1781, South Carolina became the theater of military operations, and was overrun by the British forces. May 11, 1780, Charleston was captured by the English, who also defeated the American troops at Camden, August 16th, and were in turn worsted in the action of King's Mountain, October 7th. In the following campaign, the Americans were successful at the Cowpens, January 17th, and at Eutaw Springs, in September, and the hostile forces soon after evacuated the state. They marched northward, and were captured at Yorktown, with Cornwallis. The present constitution of South Carolina was formed in 1790. It has been since twice amended.
of the country? 11. Divisions? 12. Agriculture? 13. Manufactures? 14. Commerce? 15. Canals and railroads? 16. Education? 17. Charleston? 18. Other towns? 19. Annals? 20. Revolutionary War?
1. Characteristics.—This state consists mostly of a large peninsula, and forms the most southeastern portion of the Union.
2. Mountains.—Florida has no mountains. The table-lands between the rivers rise to the hight of 200 or 250 feet.
3. Rivers.—The St. John's rises in the center of the peninsula, and presents rather the appearance of a sound than a river. Its course is nearly 300 miles, for two-thirds of which it is navigable. The Apalachicola, formed by the junction of the Flint and Chattahoochee, flows south into the Gulf of Mexico, after a course of 100 miles, through the whole of which it is navigable for sea vessels. All the rivers of this region have sand-bars at their mouths.
4. Lakes.—These are numerous; several are large, and all remarkable for the transparency of their waters. The Okeechobee, in the south, is the largest.
5. Everglades.—These are extensive marshy thickets in the southeastern parts. During the late war with the Seminoles, the Indians found a retreat in these thickets, in consequence of which the struggle was protracted for several years.
6. Harbors and Shores.—The sea along both shores is, for the most part, shallow, but presents some good harbors and fine bays. On the Atlantic coast, there are harbors at the mouths of St. Mary's and St. John's rivers, and at St. Augustine. On the western side are Apalachicola, Apalachee, and Pensacola bays.
7. Islands.—The shore is lined with small low islands, separated from each other and from the main land by narrow and shallow inlets and channels. Amelia Island and Anastatia, on the Atlantic coast, are low, sandy strips, about fifteen miles in length, by one in breadth. To the southwest is a chain of islets called Keys—from the Spanish cavo, a rocky islet—among which is Key West, or Thompson's Island, twenty leagues from the shore. It contains a military port of the United States, and has considerable trade. The Tortugas are a cluster of keys on the extreme west of this chain.
8. Springs.—These are remarkable—bursting out in great numbers over the territory. Wakulla Fountain, twelve miles from Tallahassee, consists of a vast reservoir of blue, transparent water, 1500 feet deep. A column constantly rushes up from its depths as from a boiling caldron, yet its water is extremely cold, even in summer. It is probable that this gave rise to the Indian legend of the Fountain of Youth. On Mosquito River is a warm mineral spring, with a basin of sufficient extent to float a boat. The water is slightly sulphurous.
9. Vegetable Products.—The warmth and humidity of the climate compensate for the poverty of the soil, and give to Florida a vegetation of great variety and luxuriance. Its forest-trees rise to a great hight, and its flowering shrubs are remarkable for their brilliancy. The northern and central parts are covered with a dense forest, in Map of Florida. Extent, 59,268 square miles. Admitted into the Union, 1845. Discovered, 1497. Visited by the Spaniards, 1512. Population in 1850, 87,415.—Population to the square mile, 1.47. which pine prevails; but the palms, cedar, chestnut, and live-oak attain an extraordinary size. The magnolia, so much admired for its beauty, the cypress, the pawpaw, with its green foliage and rich-looking fruit, the shady dogwood, the titi, with its beautiful blossoms, &c., are found here. The low savannas are covered with wild grass and flowers of prodigious growth, and the cane in the swamps is of great hight and thickness. The fig, orange, date, and pomegranate are among the cultivated fruits.
10. Animals.—The peculiar zoological feature of this region is a great display of parrots and other tropical birds. Deer and wild turkeys are common, and reptiles abound.
11. Minerals.—Coal and iron ore are said to exist in some parts.
12. Climate.—There is little diversity of climate in Florida, although the northern belt, bordering on Alabama and Georgia, is less decidedly tropical in its character than the peninsular portion. Water never freezes, and even in the winter months, or rainy season, the heat is oppressive.
13. Soil.—The soil may be described, in general, as poor, but there are many favorable exceptions. There is much swampy and marshy land, but the pine-barrens constitute a great part of the country. The hummock land, so called because it rises in small mounds among the pines, has a good soil.
14. Face of the Country.—The country in general is flat, but in some districts is undulating, and in some places hilly. The elevation of the ridges, or table-land, between the rivers, does not exceed from 200 to 250 feet.
15. Divisions.—By the Spaniards, Florida was divided into East and West Florida, separated by the river Appalachicola. These names are retained in common use, though
Exercises on the Map of Florida.—Extent of Florida? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? Where is St. Augustine? Cape Sable? Where are the Florida Keys? Key West? Dry Tortugas? Tampa Bay? Apalachee Bay? Pensacola Bay? Capital?
LESSON XLII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers?
[begin surface 355]the political division has ceased to exist. The state is divided into counties, as follows: This table lists the counties of Florida with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
16. Agriculture.—The greater portion of the country is yet in a state of nature. The articles of culture are maize, sweet potatoes, rice, sugar-cane, tobacco, cotton, and indigo. The land in many places is especially fitted for the cultivation of the cane. The olive flourishes and bears well. Of fruits, the orange, fig, peach, pomegranate, and lemon flourish. The cultivation of coffee, Sisal hemp, New Zealand flax, etc., have been introduced, and will probably succeed.
17. Towns.—The richest is St. Augustine, an old Spanish town; and having been founded in 1564, is the oldest town in the United States. It stands on the Atlantic coast, and is regularly built, but the streets are very narrow. The houses are constructed of a soft stone, formed by a concretion of shells, and are in the Spanish style. They are generally two stories high, with thick plastered walls, and have balconies and piazzas. Connected with most of them are beautiful gardens. The town is surrounded by a ditch, and fortified by bastions, and the castle of St. Mark. The soil in the neighborhood of St. Augustine is sandy, yet the country is beautiful, producing orange, lemon, and date trees. The climate here is delightful, and hence St. Augustine is resorted to as a winter residence for invalids afflicted with pulmonary complaints. Pensacola is the chief town in West Florida. It stands at the bottom of a large bay, and occupies a gentle acclivity. Here is a United States naval station. Tallahassee, in Middle Florida, is the seat of government, and has been incorporated as a city. St. Marks, on the Gulf, is a small seaport in the neighborhood. The village of Quincy, in the same quarter, but further inland, is a flourishing place.
18. History—Annals.—The history of Florida presents scenes of the highest and most romantic interest. It was seen by Cabot in 1497, but he did not land upon the coast. In 1512, Juan Ponce de Leon, a veteran Spanish soldier, and former governor of the island of Porto Rico, fitted out three ships, and proceeded northward on a voyage of discovery. He went to the Bahamas, and afterward to the coast, to which he gave the name of Florida, on account of the blooming appearance of the shrubs and trees. In this expedition, De Leon everywhere sought anxiously for a spring called the Fountain of Youth, said to have the power to remove age, and give back the vigor and freshness of early life. Strange as it may appear, the belief in such a fountain existing in this quarter was general, even among learned men in Spain. De Leon explored the coasts of Florida from St. Augustine to the Tortugas, or Tortoise Islands, at the southern point. It need not be said that the chief object of his pursuit was not attained. He returned to Porto Rico, but revisited Florida a few years after. Becoming involved in a conflict with the natives, many of his followers were killed, and he was himself mortally wounded. In 1526, Phainphilio de Narvaez was sent hither as governor of Florida, being accompanied with 300 men. He took formal possession in behalf of the king of Spain—the territory at that time including Florida and a strip along the Gulf, to the river Penuco, in Mexico. Striking into the country in search of gold, which then filled the dreams of the Spaniards, the adventurers wandered for a long period through swamps and forests, being often attacked by the savages, who swarmed in these regions. Having lost one-third of their number, they reached the coast, near the bay of Apalachee, where they built five boats, and embarked for the West Indies. Narvaez and nearly the whole crew perished in a storm. Four of the party escaped, and, after wandering westward, finally reached Mexico. The fate of Ferdinand de Soto, who visited this country in 1539, with a splendid retinue, was even more melancholy, but his history must be reserved for our account of Louisiana. The French Protestants made settlements on the coast of Florida, near St. Augustine, the Spaniards having abandoned the country. They called it Carolina, from their king, Charles IX. Both of these names were at first applied to the whole Atlantic coast, but in process of time became restricted to narrower limits. The Spaniards destroyed the French colony in 1564, under circumstances of great atrocity. They built St. Augustine in 1565, and afterward retained possession of the country. The colony was involved in wars with Carolina in 1702, and with Georgia in 1740. In 1763, it was ceded to Great Britain, in exchange for Havana, in Cuba, which had been captured by the English. In 1783, it was restored to Spain, by whom, in 1820, it was ceded to the United States.
19. Seminole War.—Previous to this last event, the remnants of various tribes of Indians had collected here, under the name of Seminoles, or runaways. These became troublesome, and, incited by two Englishmen, named Arbuthnot and Ambrister, came to open war in 1818. Gen. Jackson, commander of the American forces, marched into Florida and subdued the savages, the two Englishmen being executed, according to the verdict of a court-martial. In 1835, the war was renewed, and continued till 1842. The savages, sheltered in the everglades, maintained the struggle with great pertinacity. Their chief, named Osceola, was taken, and died in 1838, in the hands of his captors. This contest cost the United States many valuable lives, and an expenditure of forty millions of dollars. Though conquered, these Indians have continued to be restive; but all except a small band have emigrated. Florida became a territory in 1822, and in 1845 it was admitted into the Union.
4. Lakes? 5. Everglades? 6. Harbors and shores? 7. Islands? 8. Springs? 9. Vegetable products? 10. Animals? 11. Minerals? 12. Climate? 13. Soil? 14. Face of the country? 15. Divisions? 16. Agriculture? 17. Towns? 18. History? 19. Seminole war?
1. Characteristics.—Georgia was settled at a later date than any other of the original thirteen states.
2. Mountains.—In the northwestern part of the state there are some mountainous ridges, belonging to the Blue Ridge and Kittatinny chains, but these are of no great extent.
3. Rivers.—Georgia occupies a great inclined plane, sloping down from the Appalachian system to the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, and discharging its waters into those basins. The Savannah, the Alatamaha, and the Ogeechee flow into the former, and the Appalachicola into the latter. The Savannah forms the northeastern boundary, and empties itself into the Atlantic Ocean, after a course of about 600 miles. It is navigable for large vessels to Savannah, fifteen miles from the sea, and to Augusta, 250 miles, for steamboats of 150 tons. Beyond this there is boat navigation 150 miles. The Ogeechee has a course of 200 miles. Sloops ascend forty miles, and large boats to Louisville. The Alatamaha is formed by the junction of the Oconee and Oakmulgee. The tide flows up twenty-five miles, and large vessels go up to Darien, twelve miles. The Oconee and Oakmulgee have been ascended to Milledgeville and Macon, in steamboats; but the navigation of these rivers is partly carried on in large flat-bottomed rafts, on account of the shoals and rapids. The St. Mary's, which forms, in part, the boundary between Georgia and Florida, takes its rise in Okefenoco Swamp, and pursues a winding course to the sea. The tide flows up the river fifty miles, and its mouth forms a commodious harbor. The Chattahoochee and Flint rivers drain nearly all the western part of the state, and by their junction form the Appalachicola, which traverses Florida. The former rises in the Blue Ridge, and has a course of about 450 miles. Steamboats ascend to Columbus, 300 miles, and in these the produce of the upper counties is brought down. Flint River has a course of 300 miles, and is navigable for steamboats to Bainbridge, fifty miles.
4. Coasts and Islands.—Georgia is bordered toward the sea by a range of small islands and marshy tracts, intersected by channels and rivulets, which are navigable for small vessels. These islands consist of a rich gray soil, called hummock land. In their natural state, they are cov-
Exercises on the Map of Georgia.—Boundaries of Georgia? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? Where is Cedar Point? Where are the mountains of this state? What river in the north? What river between South Carolina and Georgia? What river between Georgia and Alabama? Describe the following: the Alatamaha; the Satilla. Capital?
LESSON XLIII. 1. Characteristics of Georgia? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Coasts and islands? 5. Swamps? 6. Min-
CULTIVATION OF COTTON.—The production of cotton in the United States increased nine per cent per annum from 1845 to 1855, while the increase of demand was sixteen per cent. If this ratio continues through another ten years, there will be an annual deficit of nearly 500,000 bales. The United States produces more than three-fourths of the whole quantity obtainable in the world. There are 400,000,000 acres of cotton lands in the United States, of which only 28,000,000 are now under cultivation. About 550,000 slaves are employed in cotton cultivation. Should the demand for cotton continue to increase, the questions will arise, How is the amount of available labor to be increased, so as to supply the demand? By what means can the United States continue to keep the lead of the world in the production of cotton? These are questions to which we do not presume to give an answer.—New Orleans Delta.
ered with forests of live-oak, pine, and hickory; but under cultivation, they produce the best cotton in the world, called Sea-island cotton.
5. Swamps.—Okefenoco Swamp lies in the southern part of this state, extending into Florida. It is a sort of marshy lake, about 180 miles in circumference, and during wet seasons has the appearance of an inland sea, with many islands. It abounds with alligators, snakes, and all sorts of reptiles, which, at certain seasons of the year, make an almost deafening noise in their singing.
6. Mineral Springs.—There are sulphurous springs in Butts county, called the Indian Springs, much resorted to for their efficacy in rheumatic and cutaneous disorders. The Madison Springs, twenty-five miles northwest of Athens, are chalybeate waters.
7. Curiosities.—In the northwestern extremity of the state, near the Tennessee River, is an eminence called Raccoon Mountain. On one of the precipitous sides of this mountain is a deep cavern, called Nicojack Cave. Its mouth is fifty feet high, and eighty feet wide. It has been explored for several miles, without coming to the end. The floor is covered with a stream of cool limpid water through its whole extent, and the cavern is accessible only in a canoe. Three miles within is a cataract, beyond which voyagers have not penetrated. The roof is a solid limestone rock, smooth and flat, and the cave is remarkably uniform in size throughout.
8. Vegetable Products.—Georgia, still more than South Carolina, combines the productions of the tropics with those of more northern latitudes. The cerealia, or bread grains, are cultivated in one part of the state, while the sugar-cane, olive, and orange, rice, indigo, and cotton, are raised in another. Tobacco is also produced. Cotton and rice are the staples. Oak, pine, hickory, live-oak, and cedars are in the forests.
9. Animals.—Among the native animals are alligators, poisonous serpents, deer, wild turkeys, and a great variety of birds, reptiles, and insects.
10. Minerals.—Copper and iron ore have been found, and gold is obtained in considerable quantities.
11. Climate.—The northwestern part of Georgia is temperate and healthy. The low country, near the swamps, has its sickly season, during the months of July, August, and September, when the planters retire to the high pine-lands, or to the sea-islands. The high back country furnishes healthy and beautiful summer retreats.
12. Soil.—This is generally good, being mostly alluvial. There are some pine-barrens and marshy tracts, the latter being devoted to the cultivation of rice.
13. Face of the Country.—Like the Carolinas, Georgia consists of three zones, or belts: the flat maritime belt, 100 miles in breadth, much of which is daily flooded by the tides; the sand-hill belt, or pine-barrens, extending inland to the lower falls of the rivers; and the hilly and mountainous tract. The latter is a broken, elevated region, rising to from 1200 to 2000 feet above the level of the sea.
14. Divisions.—Georgia is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Georgia with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
15. Agriculture.—Rice and cotton are the staples though tobacco, wheat, and maize are cultivated. Oranges, figs, pomegranates, dates, lemons, limes, citrons, pears, peaches, and grapes are among the fruits of the gardens.
eral Springs? 7. Curiosities? 8. Vegetable products? 9. Animals? 10. Minerals? 11. Climate? 12. Soil? 13. Face of the country? 14. Divisions? 15. Agriculture? 16. Manufactures? 17. Commerce? 18. Lumbering? 19. Mining? 20. Canals and
[begin surface 375]16. Manufactures.—Georgia has somewhat extensive manufactures of iron and cotton. The latter have been recently introduced, and are increasing.
17. Commerce.—The commerce of this state is chiefly carried on by northern vessels, and consists of the exportation of its agricultural products.
18. Lumbering.—This is carried on to some extent.
19. Mining.—The mining operations are confined to the production of copper, iron, and gold.
20. Canals and Railroads.—There are some short canals; and railroads are more extensive than in any other southern state.
21. Education.—In 1850 there were in Georgia 1251 public schools, attended by 32,705 scholars; 219 academies and other schools, attended by 9059 pupils; and 13 colleges, attended by 1535 students. The principal collegiate institution is the University of Georgia, at Athens; and the colleges at Milledgeville, Oxford, Penfield, and Macon. At Augusta there is a flourishing medical school.
22. Chief Towns.—The city of Savannah, on the river of the same name, fifteen miles from the ocean, is regularly laid out, with wide streets and squares, which are ornamented with the China tree. It is the chief commercial town of the state, and most of the imports and exports pass through this port. The entrance of the river is defended by two forts on Tybee Island, which lies at its mouth. The city of Augusta, the interior emporium of the state, stands on the Savannah, at the head of steamboat navigation. It receives immense quantities of cotton, tobacco, and other produce, which is taken down the river, or on the railroad, to Savannah. Milledgeville, the capital, is pleasantly situated on the Oconee, at the head of steamboat navigation. Macon is a flourishing town on the Ockmulgee. Columbus is a thriving town at the Falls of the Chattahoochee, 430 miles from Appalachicola Bay. Steamboats run from here to New Orleans. Darien lies near the mouth of the Alatamaha, and Athens, on the Oconee, ninety miles northwest of Augusta.
23. Indians.—This state was the site of several Indian tribes, or nations, at the time of the discovery of the country. These had made some advances in civilization. In more modern times, the tribe of Cherokees, consisting of about 12,000 individuals, occupied the northern country in connection with the Creek Indians, who extended into Alabama. Under the guidance of missionaries, the former adopted the customs of civilized life. They had a regular republican government. New Echota was their seat of government, and here was a printing-press and newspaper, the alphabet having been invented by a native of the tribe. The fine lands of these Indians provoked the cupidity of the whites, and, after various difficulties, they were all removed to the Indian territory.
24. History—Annals.—Georgia was the last settled of the Atlantic states. The charter under which the colony was founded was granted in 1732, by George II., in honor of whom it received its name. Savannah was settled in the following year by a body of colonists under the direction of Gen. Oglethorpe. The country was repeatedly invaded, about the year 1740, by the Spaniards, who were then in possession of Florida. In 1752, the proprietary government was abolished, and Georgia became a royal colony. In 1763 the colony was extended southward from the Alatamaha to the St. Mary's—the present boundary. Savannah was taken by the British in 1778, and evacuated in 1782. The present constitution of Georgia was formed in 1793, and amended in 1839.
1. Characteristics.—Alabama is an extensive, fertile, and flourishing state.
2. Mountains.—The northern part of the state contains the southern extremity of the Kittatinny chain, which enters it from the northwest angle of Georgia. It is here merely a range of broken, precipitous hills, in which rise the head branches of the river Mobile.
3. Rivers.—The Gulf of Mexico is the basin into which all the waters of this state, except a small portion in the north, are drained. The principal river is the Mobile, which receives the Alabama and other streams as tributaries, and terminates its course in the bay of the same name, through two principal mouths—the Tensaw and the Mobile. Sea-vessels go up to St. Stephens, on the Tombigbee, and to Claiborne, on the Alabama, and steamboats ascend to a considerable distance above. The Chattahoochee, on the eastern border, and the Tennessee, in the north, receive no considerable tributaries from Alabama. On the whole, the rivers of this state afford great facilities for internal steam navigation.
4. Bay.—This state has only about sixty miles of sea-coast, in which is comprised Mobile Bay, or the estuary of the river Mobile. It extends about thirty miles in-land, and communicates with Pascagoula Sound, by a shallow strait, through which steamboats and small sail-vessels are navigated, by an inland chain of lakes and sounds, to New Orleans.
5. Natural Products.—The natural productions of the soil are similar to those of Georgia.
6. Minerals.—Coal, salt, and iron abound in the central region, and in the northeast gold has been obtained. Other valuable minerals exist in various parts.
7. Climate.—The northern part has an elevation of 2000 feet above the low maritime tract, producing a corresponding diversity of climate in the two regions. But even in Northern Alabama, the rivers are rarely frozen over, and the southern part of the state can hardly be said to have a winter. The heats of summer in the latter section are allayed by the sea breezes, and the climate, in general, is healthy, except upon the low moist grounds.
8. Soil.—Along the streams are tracts of very productive alluvion, bordering on interval or hummock land. The interval land is of inferior quality, and the pine-barrens, which comprise a large portion of the surface, are sterile.
9. Face of the Country.—The surface in the north is mountainous and broken, and in the center undulating. As we approach nearer the sea, we find a belt of low, level land, from fifty to sixty miles in breadth, containing extensive swamps, and in many places subject to inundations.
railroads? 21. Education? 22. Towns? 23. Indians? 24. History?
Exercises on the Map of Alabama (see page 80).—Boundaries of Alabama? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What river between Alabama and Georgia? Describe the following rivers: Alabama; Tombigbee. Capital of Alabama? Direction of the following places from Montgomery: St. Stephens; Marion; Pikeville; Decatur.
LESSON XLIV. 1. Characteristics of Alabama? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Bay? 5. Natural products? 6. Minerals?
[begin surface 376]10. Divisions.—Alabama is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Alabama with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
11. Agriculture.—Cotton is the staple. Maize is the usual corn crop, but the smaller grains succeed in the northern parts. Rice and sugar are also produced.
12. Manufactures.—Cotton and several other large manufactures have been introduced, with success.
13. Commerce.—This consists chiefly in the exportation of articles of domestic produce—cotton and naval stores. Mobile is the chief port.
14. Railroads.—There are numerous important railroads, and two short canals.
15. Education.—In 1850 there were in Alabama 1152 public schools, attended by 28,380 scholars; 106 academies and other schools, attended by 8290 pupils; and 5 colleges, attended by 567 students. The University, at Tuscaloosa, is the principal collegiate institution, and there are colleges at La Grange, Spring Hill, Marion, and Selma.
16. Chief Towns.—The city of Mobile is the principal town and great commercial depot of the state. Blakely, on the opposite side of Mobile Bay, has a harbor easier of access than that of Mobile. St. Stephens, on the Tombigbee, and Cahawba, on the Alabama, are small villages. Tuscaloosa, in the center of the state, on the Black Warrior, was the capital, but the seat of government has lately been transferred to Montgomery, on the Alabama river, which is a place of considerable trade. In the northern part of the state are Huntsville and Florence, on the Tennessee. These are flourishing towns.
17. Indians.—The Choctaws, amounting to about 16,000 souls, formerly residing partly in Alabama, and partly in Mississippi, and the Creeks, about 20,000 in number, partly in this state, and partly in Georgia, have been removed to the Indian territory.
18. History—Annals.—The southern portion of this state was early deemed a part of Florida, and here some of the adventures of Narvaez and De Soto took place. The north belonged to the English, and was a part of Georgia. Some inconsiderable French settlements were made at Mobile early in the eighteenth century. The country was afterward comprised within the limits of the colony of Georgia. In 1802, that state ceded her lands west of the Chattahoochee to the United States; and in 1817 Alabama was separated from Mississippi, and erected into a territorial government. In 1820 it was admitted into the Union as a state.
7. Climate? 8. Soil? 9. Face of the country? 10. Divisions? 11. Agriculture? 12. Manufactures? 13. Commerce? 14. Railroads and canals? 15. Education? 16. Chief towns? 17. Indians? 18. History?
1. Characteristics.—This is a new and thriving state, chiefly devoted to the raising of cotton.
2. Mountains.—There are no mountains in this state.
3. Rivers.—The Mississippi washes the western border of the state, and receives the Yazoo, the Big Black, and the Homochitto from the east. The Yazoo rises in the northern part of the state, and has a course of about 250 miles. The Tombigbee flows from the northeastern corner of the state into Alabama. The Pascagoula, which rises in the eastern part, and runs into the bay of the same name, after a course of 260 miles, is navigable for small vessels. The Pearl has its sources in the center of the state, and, taking a southerly course, empties between Lakes Pontchartrain and Borgne. Its navigation is impeded by rafts, shallows, and sand-bars.
4. Lake.—Lake Borgne lies partly in Mississippi, but principally in Louisiana.
5. Bays.—Pascagoula Bay, or rather Sound, is fifty-five miles in length, by eight in width, with from ten to eighteen feet of water. It communicates with Mobile Bay, and is separated from the Gulf of Mexico by a chain of low, narrow, sandy islands.
6. Islands.—Ship Island, Cat Island, and Horn Island are sterile banks of sand.
7. Vegetable Products.—The native trees most commonly occurring are the pine, various species of oak, and hickory, black-walnut, beech, persimmon, and locust. The buckeye, which in the valley of the Ohio is a forest tree, is here a dwarf; dogwood and pawpaw are also common; but the cane, which formerly abounded, has in a great measure disappeared.
8. Animals.—The alligator grows to a great size, and abounds in the rivers. Bears, deer, and wild turkeys are common in the wooded districts.
9. Climate.—The winters are several degrees colder than in the Atlantic states of the same latitude, and rarely pass without snow. The summers are long and hot, and long droughts often succeed excessive and protracted rains. Along the rivers and stagnant waters it is unhealthy, but the settled districts are in general salubrious, though even in these, bilious complaints prevail in autumn.
10. Soil.—The greater portion of the soil is highly fertile; the southwestern counties contain large tracts of excellent land, and the rivers throughout the state are skirted by belts of a very productive soil. The bluff lands along the rivers are the richest, and the river alluvions are Map of Louisiana and Mississippi. Exent of Mississippi, 47,151 square miles.—Pop. in 1850, 606,526. Louisiana was first discovered in 1542. Mississippi was first discovered in 1541. Extent of Louisiana, 41,346 square miles.—Pop. in 1850, 517,762. next in point of fertility. Pine barrens cover a considerable part of the state.
11. Face of the Country.—The surface in general slopes to the southwest and to the south, as appears by the course of the rivers. There are no mountains, but numerous ranges of hills of moderate elevation give to a great part of the surface an undulating and diversified character. The western border, along the Mississippi, is an extensive region of swamps, inundated by the river, though there are occasional bluffs; between the Mississippi and the Yazoo, there is a large tract annually overflowed by the former. The southeastern counties are low, but waving; and on the shore of this state, the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, which further west is marshy, first begins to appear solid, dry, and covered with pines.
12. Divisions.—Mississippi is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Northern and Southern Mississippi with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
Exercises on the Map of Mississippi.—Extent? Boundaries? Population? Describe the following rivers: Pearl; Leaf; Yazoo; Big Black. Capital of Mississippi? Direction of the following places from Jackson: Vicksburg; Natchez; Shieldsborouyh?
LESSON XLV. 1. Characteristics of Mississippi? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Lake? 5. Bays? 6. Islands? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Animals? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Face of the country? 12. Divisions? 13. Agriculture? 14. Manufactures?
[begin surface 378]13. Agriculture.—Cotton is the staple of this state. Little else is thought worthy of attention. Sugar-cane has been introduced only in the southern part; also tobacco, maize, sweet potatoes, rice, and indigo.
14. Manufactures.—These are in their infancy, and are of small extent, but are likely to increase.
15. Commerce.—This consists chiefly of the exports of cotton and other products. Vicksburg has considerable trade, and some ships engaged in foreign commerce.
16. Railroads.—The state is traversed by the Mobile and Ohio, the Central, and other great works.
17. Education.—In 1850 there were in the state 782 public schools, attended by 18,946 scholars; 171 academies and other schools, attended by 6626 pupils, and 11 colleges, attended by 862 students. The principal collegiate institutions are the University at Oxford, and the colleges at Washington, Oakland, Hernando, etc.
18. Towns.—Natchez is the oldest town in the state. It stands principally on a bluff or high bank upon the Mississippi, 320 miles above New Orleans, and 300 feet above the common level of the stream. The streets are broad, and some of the public buildings are handsome. The business is mostly confined to the lower town, and this is the chief place in the state for the shipment of cotton. Great numbers of steamboats and river craft are continually arriving and departing. In the rear of the town, the country is variegated and delightful, and the hills are clothed with woods and vineyards. The opposite bank of the river in Louisiana is a vast cypress swamp. Jackson, on Pearl River, is the seat of government. Vicksburg, on the elevated banks of the Mississippi, has grown up within a few years. It has a considerable trade; it is a stopping-place for numerous steamboats, and vessels from here carry on foreign trade. It has a remarkably picturesque situation, being seated on the shelving side of several high hills, with the houses scattered about in groups upon the terraces.
19. Indians, &c.—The Choctaws and Chickasaws, who till lately occupied the northern half of the state, have removed to the Indian district west of the Mississippi. Nearly one-half of the population of this state are negro slaves.
20. History.—This portion of the country early formed a part of French Louisiana, and in 1716 a French fort was built at Natchez. The Natchez tribe of Indians was numerous, and the French missionaries took pains to convert them to Christianity, but the savages destroyed the colony. The right to the Mississippi territory was disputed between the French and Spaniards, and afterward between the French and English. In 1763 it was ceded to Great Britain, and in 1783 fell to Spain as part of Florida. In 1798, that power relinquished it to the United States; and in 1801, the country comprising the present states of Alabama and Mississippi was formed into a territory. In 1817 the latter was admitted into the Union as an independent state.
1. Characteristics.—Louisiana was originally settled by the French, and is now noted as a sugar-growing state.
2. Rivers.—The Mississippi traverses this state from north to south, and passes to the sea through several outlets, affording navigation for ships of any size. The Red River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains in the northern part of the Mexican States, enters the northwestern corner of Louisiana, and joins the Mississippi 250 miles above New Orleans, after a course of 2000 miles. The volume of its waters does not correspond with the length of its course, and, in common with the Arkansas, it partakes in some measure the character of a river of the desert. Soon after entering Louisiana, the stream divides into numerous channels, over an alluvial tract of seventy miles in length by eight or ten in width, and forms a maze of interlocking water-courses, separated by islands overgrown with thickets. The bed of the river was here choked up for the distance of 150 miles by fallen trees, forming what is called the Raft, most of which has lately been removed. The river is navigable, in some seasons, for steamboats 1000 miles above this place. The Washita rises among the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas, and joins the Red River near its mouth. The Atchafalaya receives several bayous
15. Commerce? 16. Railroads? 17. Education? 18. Towns? 19. Indians? 20. History?
Exercises on the Map of Louisiana.—[See p. 84.] Extent of Louisiana? Boundaries? Population? Where are the following: Lake Pontchartrain; Borgne; Chandeleur Isles, Atchafalaya Bay? Describe the Calcasiu River; the Washita. In what direction does the Red River run? Where does it empty? Capital of Louisiana? Direction of the following places from Baton Rouge: La Fayette; Alexandria; Natchitoches; Shreveport? What river separates Louisiana from Texas?
LESSON XLVI. 1. Characteristics of Louisiana? 2. Rivers? 3. Lakes? 4. Shores, inlets &c.? 5. Islands? 6. Vegetable
[begin surface 379]or outlets from the Red River and the Mississippi, and empties itself into the bay of the same name. A raft, formed in the bed of this river by the accumulation of floating trees and mud, obstructs its navigation. The Teche, which rises in the prairies of Opelousas, joins the Atchafalaya on the western side; vessels of seven feet draught ascend it to New Iberia, above 100 miles. The Plaquemine and Lafourche are mouths of the Mississippi. The Iberville is the upper mouth of that stream on the left, and joins the Amite at Galveston, from which place it is navigable for sloops. The Sabine rises in the Mexican provinces, and formed the western boundary of the United States prior to the annexation of Texas.
3. Lakes.—In the northwestern part of the state there is a series of lakes, formed in the valley of the Red River by the overflowing of that stream. When the water is high, it sets back and fills these reservoirs, which are nearly drained again during the dry season. Similar appearances are presented along the Mississippi and its outlets. Lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain are shallow bodies of water, connected with each other, and with Lake Borgne, by narrow channels. Lake Pontchartrain is forty-five miles in length, with a mean breadth of about twelve miles. Lakes Sabine, Calcasiu, and Mermentau, are similar sheets of water, formed by the expanding of the rivers of the same names. The term lagoon is a more appropriate designation of these bodies of water.
4. Shores, Inlets, &c.—The shores of the Gulf of Mexico are here generally low, and bordered by wide marshes. The whole coast is intersected by a chain of bays and inlets, connected with each other by a thousand tortuous channels, generally shallow, and of difficult navigation. Vermilion, Cote Blanche, Barataria, and Atchafalaya Bays are the largest, but are of little service for shipping. What is called Lake Borgne is properly a bay, communicating with Lake Pontchartrain by the straits or passes of the Rigolets and Chef Menteur. It is important as affording an inland navigation to New Orleans.
5. Islands.—The Chandeleur Islands lie on the eastern coast. They are little more than heaps of sand covered with pine forests, yet some of them are cultivated. West of the Mississippi are many others, scattered along the coast. Here is the island of Barataria, formerly noted as the resort of pirates: it lies in a bay which receives the waters of a lake of the same name. The soil of these islands is generally rich. They are covered with thick groves of live-oak and other trees, and harbor multitudes of deer, turkeys, and other wild game. Most of them are low and level, but others rise from the flat surface around them, in abrupt eminences of 100 feet in hight. There are some very fertile islands in the Mississippi.
6. Vegetable Products.—The pine, live-oak, cotton-wood, hickory, and oak, are among the forest trees. In some places the timber is very heavy, with impenetrable thickets of cane and shrubbery. The cotton-plant grows six feet high, with stalks as large as a man's arm. It bears large, yellowish blossoms, presenting a brilliant appearance. The cotton is formed from the cup of the flower, and is the down which envelops the seed.
7. Animals.—The alligator abounds in the lakes and bayous. Deer, panthers, wild turkeys, and immense quantities of sea-fowl are found in different parts. Parroquets, humming-birds, and various birds of rich plumage enliven the forests. The inspiring song of the mocking-bird is heard in almost every thicket.
8. Climate.—What has been said of the climate of Mississippi is, in general, applicable to that of this state. In the low and wet districts the summers are unhealthy, and these parts are often visited by the yellow fever; but a large part of the state is healthy. The climate in winter is more severe than in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast, and the streams and ponds are sometimes frozen over. In the southern parts, however, it is very mild.
9. Soil.—A great part of the surface of this state is periodically overflowed by the waters of the Mississippi. This immense alluvial tract embraces soil of various descriptions, which may be arranged into four classes. The first, which is thought to embrace two-thirds of the whole, is covered with heavy timber, and an almost impenetrable undergrowth of cane and other shrubbery. This portion is quickly drained as the river retires into its natural channels; it has a soil of the greatest fertility. The second class consists of cypress swamps. These are basins, or depressions of the surface, from which there is no natural outlet, and which, being filled with water by the floods, remain covered with it until the water is evaporated or absorbed by the earth. These, by draining, might become excellent rice-fields. The third class embraces the sea-marsh, a belt of land partially covered by common tides, and subject to inundation from the high waters of the Gulf during the equinoctial gales; it is generally without timber. The soil in some parts is clayey, and in others, as black as ink, and cracks by the heat of the sun into fissures wide enough to admit a man's arm. The fourth class consists of small bodies of prairie lands, dispersed in different parts of the alluvial territory. These spots are elevated, and without timber, but of great fertility. The pine woods have generally a poor soil. The interval lands upon the rivers, or bottoms, as they are universally termed in the Western States, are almost always rich. On the Red River, the soil includes a portion of salt, and is of a dark-red color, from its containing oxide of iron. A proportion of the larger prairies are second-rate land; and some of them are sterile. The richest tract in the state is a narrow belt called the Coast, lying along the Mississippi on both sides, and extending from 150 miles above New Orleans to forty miles below. It is from one to two miles wide, and lies below the level of the river in ordinary inundations. It is defended from the river by a dike or levee, six or eight feet in hight, and sufficiently wide for a highway. The whole of this tract is under cultivation, and produces the richest crops of sugar. The levee is liable to break away, and great damage is sometimes done by the flooding of the country. A break in the levee is called a crevasse.
10. Face of the Country.—This state has no mountains. The land is low, and in general level, with some hilly ranges, of little elevation, in the western part, and numerous basins or depressions of the soil. The great Delta of the Mississippi, amounting to one-fourth part of the state, has, in general, an elevation of not more than ten feet above the Gulf, and is annually inundated by the spring floods. A great part of the delta is composed of sea-marsh, which also forms the whole southern coast to the Sabine, and which, through its whole extent, is subject to inundations by the high tides. North of this marsh spreads out the vast level of the prairies, which is but
products? 7. Animals? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Face of the country? 11. Divisions? 12. Agriculture? 13. Commerce?
[begin surface 380]slightly elevated above the former. The western margin of the Mississippi, to the northern border of the state, is a low strip, intersected with numerous river channels, and overflowed by the spring floods. To the west of this belt, and north of the prairies, is an extensive region considerably broken, but nowhere exceeding 200 feet in elevation. The section north of the Iberville and Lake Pontchartrain, and east of the Mississippi, is principally covered with pine.
11. Divisions.—Louisiana is subdivided into parishes: This table lists the parishes of Louisiana with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each parish and the town's population. The parish population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
12. Agriculture.—Sugar and cotton are the staples of the country. The sugar-cane is raised chiefly on that tract of the river alluvion called the Coast, and upon the shores of the Gulf, and some of the bayous. It is planted in cuttings, or slips, and is cultivated nearly in the same way as maize. The rows are six feet apart. The soil should be of the richest quality, and a foot in depth. There are four varieties of cane—the African, Otaheitan, West Indian, and Ribbon Cane. The last is a new variety, and its stalk is marked with parallel stripes. It ripens some weeks earlier than the other kinds, and will flourish farther north. After the cane is cut, it lies a few days to ferment, and is then passed through iron rollers, which press out the juice: this is evaporated by boiling, and the sugar crystallizes. Rice and sugar succeed only in the southern part of the state; but cotton, maize, tobacco, and indigo thrive in all parts. Of fruit trees, the peach, fig, and orange are most generally cultivated; but the latter are often killed by the frost. Cattle and mules are extensively bred on the prairies. Agriculture, as a science, is in its infancy, and the labor is performed by slaves.
13. Commerce.—All the commerce of the state centers at New Orleans, and it is chiefly transacted by vessels belonging to other parts of the country. The exported articles of domestic produce include all the agricultural and manufactured productions of the valley of the Mississippi; but sugar and cotton are the most important.
14. Manufactures.—These are of small extent.
15. Canals and Railroads.—These principally diverge from New Orleans. The railroads extend in every direction, and are magnificent works.
16. Education.—In 1850 Louisiana had 664 public schools, attended by 25,046 scholars; 143 academies and other schools, attended by 5328 pupils; and 5 colleges, attended by 469 students. The University of the State of Louisiana, at New Orleans, is the principal seat of learning. The other colleges are at Baton Rouge, Jackson, Opelousas, and Coteau Grand; and there are professional schools.
17. Chief Towns.—The city of New Orleans stands on the left bank of the Mississippi, 105 miles from its mouth. From its form, as it lies on the bend of the river, Plan of New Orleans. Image of the city plan of New Orleans. it is sometimes called the Crescent City. When the river is full, the surface of the water is from two to four feet above the streets; at low water it is rather below the front street, but is above the swamps in the rear. To prevent inundation, a levee, or embankment, runs along the river. The city is regularly laid out, with the streets intersecting each other at right angles. Above the city proper are the faubourgs, or suburbs, of St. Marie and Annunciation; below are Marigny, Franklin, and Washington. A series of works has been undertaken for draining, raising, and cleansing the city, which render it less unhealthy than it has heretofore been. The public buildings are not remarkable either for size or architecture, but many fine stores and valuable edifices have been lately erected. The St. Charles Hotel is very handsome. The spot on which the city is built, although the most eligible which the banks of the river afford in this quarter, has great disadvantages. The ground is soft and marshy, and there are no cellars to any of the buildings. As a place of trade, New Orleans has immense advantages. It is the outlet for all the commerce of the Mississippi and its tributaries. It is accessible for ships of the largest size, and its levee is constantly crowded with
14. Manufactures? 15. Canals and railroads? 16. Education? 17. Chief towns? 18. Inhabitants? 19. Narvaez?
[begin surface 381]all kinds of maritime and river craft. In the cotton season, its streets are barricadoed with bales. There are hundreds of flat-boats in the harbor at a time. Steamboats arrive and depart constantly, and hundreds may be often seen together. The levee, or quay, extends for four miles along the bank of the river, and presents an unexampled scene of activity. The quantity of merchandise, of all kinds, displayed here, is immense. This city was in the possession of the Spanish and French before it came into the possession of the United States, and it now exhibits a striking mixture and contrast of manners, language, and complexions. Emigrants from every part of Europe and America are mingled with the descendants of the original French and Spanish settlers. Sailors from every climate, merchants and traders from the north and south, and east and west, are seen upon the levee and in the streets. The city formerly suffered from this mixed population, but in every respect it has greatly improved. It has excellent schools, and, in winter, the fine climate draws hither a great many persons from the northern states, in search of health or pleasure. The city has something of the gayety of Paris, in the habits of the people. Notwithstanding the insalubrity of the place, it has rapidly increased in population, wealth, and commerce. Baton Rouge, fifty miles above New Orleans, is a pretty village, with houses in the French and Spanish style, and contains a military post and an arsenal of the United States. It is on the lowest highland, or bluff point, in descending the river. It became the capital of the state in 1848. Alexandria, on Red River, 150 miles from the Mississippi by the windings of the stream, is a pleasant village, in the center of a rich cotton district. Natchitoches, eighty miles above, at the head of steam navigation, was long a frontier town of the United States toward the Mexican territories, and is more than a century old. The population is a mixture of Indian, Spanish, French, and American. It has been under the rule of all these powers, and has had its war-dances, fandangoes, French balls, and backwoodsmen's frolics. A few miles west of Natchitoches, is the ancient town of Adaves, founded by the Spaniards, and exhibiting the most complete specimen of an old Spanish town in the country. It consists of houses a hundred years old, and a little old church, decorated with coarse paintings. The inhabitants are all Spanish. It is about twenty-five miles from the Texan frontier. Madisonville, near the northern shore of Lake Pontchartrain, stands on a healthy spot, and is a summer residence for the people of New Orleans. Opelousas and St. Martinsville, west of the Mississippi, are thriving settlements, surrounded by a fertile and well-cultivated district. Shreveport, Donaldsonville, Plaquemine, and St. Francisville, are growing towns.
18. Inhabitants.—Louisiana, having been first settled by the French, has a large French population. There are also a considerable number of Spaniards. One portion of New Orleans is mainly inhabited by French people. Another portion contains many Spaniards. Formerly, these were reluctant to mingle with the American population, but this state of things is rapidly changing. The laws of the state are published both in French and English. There are also French newspapers at New Orleans. Nearly half the population of Louisiana are negro slaves.
19. History—Narvaez.—Louisiana was first discovered by some of the followers of the Spanish adventurer, Narvaez. He landed in Florida in 1528, with 300 men; but they all perished except four, who wandered through Louisiana and Texas, and finally reached Mexico. No account of the countries these men passed through was preserved, though they must have crossed the Mississippi, near its mouth.
20. De Soto.—Ferdinand de Soto, not discouraged by the melancholy fate of Narvaez, applied to the Emperor of Spain, and obtained permission to undertake the conquest of Florida. In 1539, he anchored in Tampa Bay with 600 men in complete armor; 200 of these were mounted.
They had ample stores of food, and a stock of 300 swine, which were driven before the expedition in their long and tedious wanderings. Directing their course north and west, the adventurers passed through the northern part of Georgia, occupied by the Cherokees. Proceeding into the present territory of Alabama, they fought a terrible battle with the Indians, in which several thousand of the latter were killed. Passing still westward, they reached the country of the Chickasaws, on the banks of the Yazoo. Here they were attacked by the Indians at night, and several Spaniards were killed. It will be interesting to notice, in detail, some of the incidents which attended this remarkable expedition. At one time, as the Spaniards were suffering from famine and fatigue, they came to the territories of a queen called Cofachiqui. Being apprised of the approach of the strangers, she went out to meet them, attended by eight noble ladies and a great retinue of magistrates and attendants. She crossed the river in two canoes, and approached the Spaniards, who were drawn up on the bank, with great pomp. She took a string of pearls, wound three times around her body, and presented it to De Soto. She then caused a raft to be built, by which the Spaniards were taken across the river to the town on the opposite bank. Here they were feasted beneath lofty arbors of green boughs. They were also furnished with 600 bushels of corn. The wealth of this region appears to have been great. From the tombs beneath some temples in the vicinity, they obtained fourteen bushels of pearls. The temples were numerous, and some of them very spacious. One was 300 feet in length, and 120 in breadth. The roof was steep, covered with mats, and made water-tight. Over these was a sort of tiling, constructed of brilliant shells, which made a splendid appearance in the sunshine. The entrance to the temple was guarded by twelve colossal statues of armed men, executed in wood. These had expressive countenances, and were thrown into imposing attitudes. The interior of the walls were ranged by statues of men and women, the former being armed. Beneath were the tombs, where the Spaniards found immense quantities of pearls. Outside of the main building were eight smaller ones, filled with bows, arrows, spears, and other weapons. This edifice was in a town called Tolomeco, which had been depopulated and deserted in consequence of pestilence. Having remained some time with Copachiqui, during which he was entertained in the most hospitable manner, De Soto at length came to a rupture with the Indians, and seizing the person of the queen, with her female attendants, forced them to travel on foot with the army a distance of 300 miles. At length the queen contrived to escape, and all the efforts of the Spaniards to retake her were fruitless. Proceeding in their march, the invaders came to the Indian town of Mauvila, which contained eighty houses, each capable of lodging a thousand men. The chief of the country was a giant by the name of Tascaluza. He received the Spaniards with a show of courtesy, giving accommodations to the horses without the walls, and entertaining the men with feasts and the dances of beautiful women. But a quarrel soon arose, and the bloodiest battle in the records of Indian warfare, within the United States, immediately followed. It lasted nine hours, and Vega, the Spanish historian, reckons the number of the Indians who fell at over 10,000, though this is doubtless an exaggeration. Of the Spaniards, eighteen were killed and 150 wounded. It is supposed that Tascaluza perished in the fight, but his fame came down to modern times. The present city of Tuscaloosa is supposed to mark the site of his capital. The Spaniards, though greatly disheartened, marched forward, and came at last to the dominions of a chief called Vitachuco, in West Florida. This monarch blustered at the strangers stoutly, at first; but finally he received them with an appearance of hospitality. He, however, secretly collected 10,000 warriors, who made a desperate attack upon the Spaniards. In the fight, 900 of the savages were driven into a lake, where they remained swimming about for fourteen hours, when those surrendered who were not drowned. The chief was captured, and his whole army dispersed. He was, however, released, and new wars arose between him and the
12 [begin surface 399]invaders. Continuing their march to the northwest, they discovered the Mississippi, which they crossed, probably, near the mouth of the St. Francis River. They proceeded northward as far as Missouri, but returned soon after. Reaching the banks of the Washita, in Louisiana, they spent the winter there. In the spring they passed down to the Mississippi, where De Soto was taken sick and died. His body was wrapped in a mantle and sunk in the middle of the stream during the stillness of the night. The adventurers, now reduced in number, wandered for a long period, and at last, half naked and famished with hunger, they reached Panuco in Mexico. Never was there an expedition that began in more ambitious hopes and was attended with more fatal disasters. The adventurers wandered for four years through the wilderness, crossed numerous rivers, encountered savage armies of ten times their number, and were finally wasted away by accident, disease, and battle. The proud leader was buried in the mighty river which he discovered, and the remnant who escaped were only sufficient to bear testimony to the sufferings, the disasters, and the failure of the expedition.
21. La Salle.—The Mississippi was discovered in 1678, by two French missionaries, named Marquette and Joliette, who proceeded from Quebec by the way of the lakes, to the Mississippi, and down the stream to the mouth of the Arkansas. In 1679, La Salle, the French commander of Fort Frontignac, on Lake Ontario, accompanied by Hennipen, a Franciscan friar, explored the country on the Upper Mississippi, naming it Louisiana, from Louis XIV. In 1684, he made a voyage from France to the Gulf of Mexico, for the purpose of discovering the mouth of this great river. But the attempt was unsuccessful, and he was murdered by his own men, near Matagorda Bay, within the present boundary of Texas.
22. Settlements.—In 1698, the first permanent settlement was made in French Louisiana, at Biloxi, within the limits of the present state of Mississippi. In 1699, M. Iberville built a fort and founded a colony fifty miles above the mouth of the Mississippi. His efforts were followed up by M. Crozat, who held the exclusive trade of the country for a number of years. About the year 1717, he transferred his interest in the province to a chartered company, at the head of which was the notorious John Law, whose national bank and Mississippi speculation produced the ruin of half the French nobility. In 1722, New Orleans was founded by Bienville, the commandant of the colony. Two years afterward, 500 negro slaves were imported from Guinea. At the treaty of peace, in 1763, Louisiana was ceded to Spain, and it was taken possession of by that power in 1769. In 1800 it was ceded to France. In 1803, it was purchased by the United States from the French Republic for $15,000,000. The territory thus acquired extended from the Mississippi to the Pacific, and included the present state of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Minesota, Missouri Territory, and Indian Territory. Oregon was also supposed to be included, but our title to that rested upon the stronger grounds of discovery.
23. Battle of New Orleans.—The most remarkable event in the history of Louisiana, is the repulse of the British army under General Packenham, on the eighth of January, 1815. His force consisted of 12,000 men, advancing to attack New Orleans. They were met by the Americans under General Jackson, 6000 strong. The latter, sheltered by breastworks of cotton-bales, poured their destructive volleys upon the enemy, who retired with the loss of their commander-in-chief, and 1700 killed and wounded. The American loss was seven killed and six wounded.
20. De Soto? His adventures and disasters? 21. La Salle? 22. Settlements? 23. Battle of New Orleans?
THE staple products of Texas appear to be as varied as the area of the State is extensive. Cotton sugar, corn, wheat, wool, all are grown in large quantities, in different sections. As regards the yield of sugar, it is undoubtedly much larger now than it was in 1850. In fact, it is steadily increasing, and must continue to do so as a large part of the soil is admirably adapted to the culture. The cotton crop augments still more, while, in the western and northern counties, in addition to the usual grain products, we observe that there is a considerable yield of wool. In 1850 the census showed the State to contain 100,530 sheep. A recent number of the Houston Telegraph says that within a year past, between four and five hundred bales of wool, averaging four hundred younds to the bale, have been received there.
[begin surface 402]1. Characteristics.—This is a very extensive state, formerly belonging to Mexico, and lately annexed to the United States.
2. Mountains.—The northwestern portion of this state consists of mountains, which form part of the Rocky Mountain range. They here bear the name of the Guadaloupe Mountains. This region has been little explored, and is still unsettled. The mountain sides are covered with forests, and most of them are susceptible of cultivation and irrigation.
3. Valleys.—There are numerous alluvial valleys among the mountainous districts, in the western part of Texas. The valleys along the rivers are generally marked with high fertility.
4. Rivers.—These all rise in the highlands of the north and west, and mostly fall into the Gulf of Mexico. The Neches is navigable for small steamboats one hundred miles; Trinidad, or Trinity, for three hundred; and the Brazos for two hundred. The Rio Colorado is obstructed by a raft of driftwood, about ten miles above its mouth. When this is removed, it will be navigable for steamboats to Austin, a distance of two hundred miles. The San Antonio and Nueces are only navigable for short distances. The Sabine, which separates Texas from Louisiana, is navigable about 300 miles. The Rio Grande forms the southwestern boundary of the state.
5. Sea-Coast.—Texas lies on the Gulf of Mexico for about 300 miles. It has no good ship harbor, and few ports for smaller vessels. The shallow bays which receive most of the rivers, as well as the mouths of the rivers themselves, are barred by shifting sand-banks.
6. Islands.—There are several low flats running along the coast, and inclosing narrow bays, which are called islands. Of these, Padre, Mustang, St. Joseph's, and Matagorda, are the principal.
7. Vegetable Products.—The surface, in most parts, is covered with a luxuriant native grass, comprising, with the common prairie grass, the gama, musquite, wild
Exercises on the Map.—Extent of Texas? Population? Boundaries? Describe the following: Galveston Bay; Matagorda Bay; Padre Island; Point Isabel. Describe the following rivers: Sabine; Neches; Trinity; Brazos; Colorado; Guadaloupe; Nueces. What mountains in the northwest of Texas? Capital? Direction of the principal places from Austin?
LESSON XLVII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Sea-coast? 6. Islands? 7. Vegetable
[begin surface 403]clover, wild rice, &c., and affording excellent pasturage. It has also an ample supply of timber. Live-oak is abundant; white, black, and post oak, ash, elm, acacia, walnut, sycamore, cypress, India rubber, &c, are among the common trees. The high lands abound with pines and cedars. Peaches, melons, figs, oranges, lemons, pine-apples, dates, and olives may be produced in different localities. Grapes are abundant. Vanilla, indigo, sarsaparilla, and a great variety of dyeing and medicinal plants, are indigenous.
8. Animals.—Vast herds of buffaloes and wild horses wander over the prairies. The pursuit of these is the occupation of the Indians, as well as of some of the settlers. Bears are sometimes met with, and among them the grizzly bear. Deer and small game are abundant.
9. Minerals.—Coal of a superior quality, and iron ore, have been found. Silver mines have been wrought in the mountainous regions. Nitre abounds in the east; salt is obtained from numerous lakes and springs; bitumen is met with in various places; gypsum, granite, limestone, and slate are common.
10. Climate.—The climate is very mild and healthful.
11. Soil.—There are few countries of the same extent which have so little unproductive land as Texas. The maritime section is a rich alluvium, singularly free from stagnant swamps. The banks of the rivers are covered with broad woodlands. The undulating lands between these streams afford rich pastures. Further inland are vast prairies, alternating with uplands thickly timbered. Beyond the mountain range are elevated table-lands of great fertility.
12. Face of the Country.—The natural aspect of this state is that of a vast inclined plane, gradually sloping from the mountains eastward to the sea. This is intersected by numerous rivers, all having a southeasterly direction. The country is divided into three regions. The first is a level tract, from forty to one hundred miles wide, stretching along the sea. The second is the undulating prairie region, which extends one hundred and fifty miles further inland. The third is the mountainous region, to the north and west, with the table-lands beyond.
13. Divisions.—Texas is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Texas with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
14. Agriculture.—Cotton and the sugar-cane are the agricultural staples. The grains chiefly cultivated are Indian corn and wheat. The sweet and common potatoes yield extremely well. The rearing of live-stock has long been the principal and favorite occupation of a large portion of the inhabitants, and many of the prairies are almost literally covered with immense herds of oxen.
15. Chief Towns.—Austin, the capital, on the left bank of the Colorado, two hundred miles from the sea, has recently been laid out, is near the center of the state, and is a thriving place. Brazoria, on the Brazos, thirty miles from the sea, has considerable trade. Corpus Christi, on a bay of the same name, is a large village. Galveston, at the east end of Galveston Island, is the chief commercial mart. Houston, at the head of tidewater on Buffalo Bayou, is a large place. Matagorda, on the Colorado, thirty-five miles from the sea, is a thriving village. Nacogdoches, San Augustine, and Washington are places of some note.
16. Inhabitants.—Over one-half of the population are Americans, of British descent. There is a considerable number of Germans, who have lately emigrated hither, with some Irish, French, Italians, &c. It is supposed there are about 15,000 Mexicans of Spanish descent.
17. History—Early Annals.—At the time Cortez conquered Mexico, Texas was the occasional resort of wandering tribes of Indians, who were of a wild, rude, and savage character. Though considered a part of Mexico, it remained for a long time unoccupied. La Salle, the French pioneer, in his attempt to found a colony at the
products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 14. What are the agricultural products? 15. Which are the chief towns? 16. Inhabitants? 17. What is said of the early history of Texas?
[begin surface 404]mouth of the Mississippi, missed his reckoning, and landed, in 1685, at the head of Matagorda Bay. Here he built a fort; but two years after, he departed, and was shot by one of his own men, as we have already stated. His fort was demolished by the Indians. Small settlements were made in the territory both by the Spanish and French, and rival claims to the country were maintained by them. In 1681, the Spaniards established a military post at Bejar. In 1719, a colony of people from the Canary Isles was seated here. The province was at that time called the New Phillippines, and several missions and presidios, or military posts, existed in different quarters. At this period, the claim of Spain to the country seems to have been pretty well established, and the population was considerable. The missionary establishments consisted of massive stone fortresses, with churches decorated with statues and paintings, and having enormous bells. The ruins of some of these formidable structures still remain in Texas, and are striking objects in a country otherwise so little marked by the works and institutions of man. At the outbreak of the Mexican revolution in 1810, owing to the plundering habits of the Camanches and other tribes, and the narrow policy of the Spanish government, the population of Texas had diminished.
18. Attempt at Independence.—In 1812, a party of about two hundred Americans from the southwestern states, with three hundred French, Spaniards, and Italians, commanded by a Mexican patriot, named Gutierez, crossed the Sabine, and took possession of Goliad. They were attacked by the royalist forces, and several battles followed, in which the invaders were victorious. Disgusted with the conduct of some of the Mexican leaders, a large part of the Americans withdrew. Gutierez was removed from the command, and the dissatisfied troops returned. In a conflict with the royalist army under Toledo, the Mexican allies deserted in a cowardly manner, and left the Americans to meet the conflict with ten times their number. Most of these were killed, and those who escaped from the battlefield were principally slain. Thus ended, in total defeat, this first attempt at Texan independence.
19. Stephen F. Austin.—In 1821, new and more successful attempts at colonization in Texas were commenced, and consequently the population was rapidly increased. The leading pioneer in this movement was Stephen F. Austin, of Durham, Connecticut, whose father had obtained permission to plant a colony here. His active exertions were successful, and he may be almost considered the father of Texas. In 1824, Mexico, now an independent republic, established Coahuila and Texas as one of its states. A period of tranquillity followed; but in 1826, a movement was made at Nacogdoches to throw off the Mexican yoke. A republic of the name of Fredonia was proclaimed; a band of Cherokees was engaged to assist the insurgents; but these turned against their allies, and the insurrection was speedily suppressed.
20. War of Independence.—In the progress of events, a spirit of dissatisfaction with the Mexican government grew up in Texas. This was hightened by the usurpations of Santa Anna, who had become president of Mexico. In 1835, the Texans began to prepare for war. In November of that year, they made an open declaration of their intention to resist the parent state. A provisional government was formed, and Samuel Houston was appointed commander of the Texan army. In December following, an army of five hundred Texans besieged the strong fortress of Bexar, defended by 1300 Spaniards and Mexicans, commanded by Gen. Cos. In the course of a few days, the fort was taken, the Mexicans being permitted to retire. In a short time, not a Mexican soldier was to be found east of the Rio Grande. On the 2d of March, 1835, a convention of delegates met at Washington, on the Brazos, and made a formal declaration of independence. Previous to this, Santa Anna had invaded the country in person. Goliad was invested, and Bexar, defended by one hundred and fifty Texans, was surrounded by four thousand men. The attack commenced, and was continued for several days. The defense of the little band within the Alamo was worthy of Leonidas and his Spartans. They kept the enemy at bay for a long time, but a general assault was made on the 6th of March. The Texans fought on till only seven of their number were left. These were cut down when the place was carried, no quarter being given. Only two persons survived—a woman and a negro servant. Among the slain, surrounded by a heap of those who had fallen by his powerful hand, was David Crockett, of Tennessee, a man celebrated for his eccentric wit and generous independence of character. It is supposed that the Mexican loss was 1500. Col. Fannin, with 275 men, attempted to retreat from Goliad on the 17th. Being surrounded by a large Mexican force, with a number of Indian allies, he threw his men into a hollow square, and defended himself nearly a whole day, killing 500 of the enemy. During the night, the Texans threw up breastworks; but the Mexicans had received a reinforcement of 500 men: they were therefore obliged to capitulate, on condition of being regarded as prisoners of war. Having been marched to Goliad, they were inhumanly treated, and soon after they were shot, by order of Santa Anna, including some other troops, making 400 in all. This melancholy tragedy, which has stamped the name of Santa Anna with infamy, and even stained the Mexican annals, occurred on the 27th March.
21. Battle of San Jacinto.—Flushed with victory, and confident of success, Santa Anna pursued the Texan army, now commanded by Gen. Houston. The latter retreated until he reached the San Jacinto. Here he paused, having 783 men. The enemy advanced, amounting to 1600. On the 21st April, the Texans began the attack. Holding their fire till they reached the enemy's lines, they raised the war-cry, "Remember the Alamo!" and, with the phrensy of revenge, threw themselves upon the enemy's works. In fifteen minutes, they were in entire possession of their camp. The whole Mexican army was either killed, wounded, or taken prisoners. Santa Anna was taken the next day, alone, unarmed, and disguised. He was permitted to go to the United States, where he had an interview with Gen. Jackson. He returned to Mexico, having previously stipulated with Gen. Houston to favor the cause of Texan independence. This, however, he did not fulfil, and the war against Texas was continued.
22. Independence—Annexation.—Meantime, the independence of that state was recognized by the United States, England, and France. In 1844, negotiations were entered into for the annexation of Texas to the United Spates. In February of the next year, a joint resolution was passed by Congress in favor of that measure, and it soon after was admitted into the Union.
18. Attempt at independence? 19. Stephen F. Austin? 20. War of independence? 21. Battle of San Jacinto? 22. Annexation?
1. Characteristics.—The Western States have been described as follows: If thou wouldst find a favored land, By nature's chosen bounties blest— A fertile soil, a climate bland— Go seek the regions of the West! Here is the farmer's paradise: Rich harvests come with little care, While spreading rivers brimming rise, And to their marts these products bear. The giant Mississippi toils For millions o'er its valley spread, And asks no share of countless spoils Upon its burdened bosom sped. Majestic stream! thou roll'st along, Type of the land thy waters lave, With bosom broad and current strong:— O, who shall stay thy onward wave?
2. Mountains.—This region contains no mountain chain of great extent or elevation, except the Ozark or Masserne mountains, in the extreme southwest, which may be considered as branches of the great Mexican system.
3. Valleys.—The larger valleys of this region have been already described. There are many smaller ones, noted for their beauty and fertility.
4. Prairies.—The immense prairies of this region constitute the most remarkable feature of the country. These are level plains stretching as far as the eye can reach, totally destitute of trees, but covered with tall grass or flowering shrubs. Some have an undulating surface, and are called rolling prairies. These are the most extensive, and are the favorite resort of the bison. Here, without a tree or a stream of water, the traveler may wander for days, and discover nothing but a grassy ocean bounded on all sides by the horizon. In the dry season, the Indians set fire to the grass, and the wide conflagration which ensues often surprises the bison, deer, and other wild animals, who are unable to escape from the flames, and are burned to death. These tracts prevail most in Missouri, Arkansas, and Illinois.
5. Barrens.—These are common in the Western States. They have generally an undulating surface, with low hills, extending in long and uniform ranges. The soil is commonly clayey, of a reddish or gray color, and producing a tall, coarse grass. Trees are thinly scattered about over the surface. These barrens are capable of cultivation.
6. Rivers.—Perhaps no region in the world is so bountifully supplied with navigable streams. The Missouri and Mississippi spread their hundred giant arms throughout every portion of its vast surface. The principal of these is the Ohio, whose head streams, the Alleghany and Monongahela, rising in Pennsylvania and Virginia, unite at Pittsburg, and take the name of Ohio. From Pittsburg to the Mississippi, the river has a course of 950 miles, receiving numerous navigable streams from the two great inclined planes between which it runs. The southern or largest of these planes has a much greater declivity than the northern, and its rivers are more rapid, yet with few direct falls. The Kenawha, Big Sandy, Kentucky, Green, Cumberland, and Tennessee are the principal confluents from the Appalachian slope. On the north, it receives the Big Beaver, Muskingum, Scioto, Miami, and Wabash, which come from the slightly elevated table-lands of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. The whole region drained by this noble river, comprising an area of 200,000 square miles, is rich in the most useful productions of nature, animal, vegetable, and mineral, and enjoys the advantage of a mild and healthful climate. From Pittsburg to its mouth, it has a descent of 400 feet, or five inches to a mile. Its current is gentle, and it is nowhere broken by falls, except at Louisville. Its breadth varies from 400 to 1400 yards, being on an average about 800 yards. The navigation is impeded by ice in winter, and drought in autumn, in its upper part; but the greater portion of the year it is the scene of an active trade, and is covered with steamboats and river craft.
7. Lakes.—The great lakes which lie between the Western States and British America have been noticed. The boundary between the United States and British America runs in the middle of lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, and Superior.
8. Natural Curiosities.—Some of the largest caves in the world are found in the Western States. These will be described under the several states.
9. Mineral Springs.—These are found in various localities, and will be hereafter described.
10. Vegetable Products.—The largest deciduous tree of the American forest is the occidental plane-tree, popularly known under the various names of sycamore, buttonwood, and cotton-tree. It attains its greatest size in the Western States, sometimes rising with a trunk from ten to fifteen feet in diameter, to the hight of seventy feet, before it begins to give out branches. The cottonwood, a species of poplar, which abounds on the western rivers, attains the hight of eighty feet. It receives its name from its bearing a downy matter resembling cotton. The tulip-tree, or whitewood, improperly called the poplar, is second in size only to the buttonwood, and, from the fine form of the trunk, and the beauty of its foliage and flowers, may be considered one of the most magnificent vegetable productions of the temperate climates. Its wood is also valuable in the arts. It is found both in the western and southern states, and grows to the hight of 130 or 140 feet, with a trunk sometimes perfectly strait, and six or seven feet in diameter, to the hight of fifty feet. The black-walnut, the butternut, the sugar-maple, pekan, various species of oak, &c., are common. The pawpaw is a shrub or small tree, which bears an oblong yellowish fruit, resembling a cucumber, with a soft and edible, but insipid, pulp. The locust-tree is a beautiful ornamental tree, and useful in the arts on account of the hardness and durability of the wood. It reaches the hight of eighty feet, with a trunk four feet in diameter. There are four species, all of which are confined to North America. The beech, walnut, oak, &c., abound in the West.
11. Animals.—Many of the wild animals indigenous to the country are still common in the Western States, as the brown bear, deer, elk, cougar, wild turkey, &c. The buffalo is met with in the western parts, where the prairie wolf is also common.
12. Minerals.—Lead is the most abundant of the
Exercises on the Map of the Western States.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Boundaries and capital of each of the Western States? Between what states does the Mississippi run? Where does the Mississippi rise?
LESSON XLVIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Prairies? 5. Barrens? 6. Rivers? 7. Lakes? 8. Natural curiosities? 9. Mineral springs? 10. Vegetable products? 11. Animals? 12. Minerals? 13. Climate? 14. Soil?
[begin surface 407]metals in this region. The iron produced here is obtained mostly from the neighborhood of the Appalachian mountains. Bituminous coal is also abundant in these regions. Limestone occurs in almost every part. Salt-springs are found in many places, and no part of the Mississippi Valley is remote from a plentiful supply of salt. The richest copper mines in the world are found in the north.
13. Climate.—The cold is severe in the northern part, and, in general, the temperature is lower than in the same parallels of latitude on the Atlantic. The climate may be described in general terms as temperate and healthful.
14. Soil.—The Western States contain the most extensive tracts of fertile soil in the United States, and seem destined to be the granary of millions of people.
15. Face of the Country.—The surface may be described as composed of vast level tracts, slightly broken in some places with low hills, and in others gently undulating, but rarely rugged or precipitous. The beds of the streams are often worn deep below the general elevation, giving their banks a hilly appearance, which, however, is wholly deceptive.
16. Divisions.—The Western States are as follows:
17. Agriculture.—This is the chief employment of the people of these states.
18. Manufactures.—These are extensive and flourishing in some parts, but, on the whole, their products are not considerable, compared to those of agriculture.
19. Commerce.—Having no seaboard, the commerce of these states is wholly inland. Immense amounts of produce are sent to New Orleans, as well as New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore. A considerable caravan trade has been carried on from Missouri to Mexico, by way of Santa Fé.
20. Hunting.—Parties of hunters and trappers go into the western regions to take fur-bearing animals, but their operations are now on a limited scale.
21. Mining.—Lead is obtained in large quantities. Coal, copper, and iron beds are wrought to a considerable extent.
22. Diseases.—These are generally bilious fevers: pulmonary complaints are rare. Intermittent fevers are common. In some few places, half the people are said to have agues. Many large districts, however, are entirely free from them, and they are everywhere becoming less common.
23. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants are the descendants or natives of almost every European country, and of every Atlantic state. There are separate communities of French, Swiss, and Germans; and there are many English, Scotch, and Irish citizens. Ohio and Indiana are principally peopled from New England; and Kentucky from Virginia and North Carolina. French is spoken in some parts of Missouri and Illinois, and the Swiss and Germans in many places retain their own language. There are not many negroes, except in Arkansas, Kentucky, Missouri, and Tennessee, in which states slavery still exists. The Indians, who were till recently numerous in Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, have been mostly removed to the Indian Territory. Amidst a population so variously composed, and of so recent origin, we cannot expect to find many prevailing characteristics. The English language, and American habits and manners, are, however, rapidly moulding all into one homogeneous mass.
24. Boats—Boatmen.—The great rivers which form so striking a natural feature of this region, give to the mode of traveling and transportation, in general, a peculiar cast, and have created a peculiar class of men, called boatmen. Craft of all descriptions are found on these waters. There are the rude shapeless masses that denote the infancy of navigation, and the light steamboat which makes its perfection, together with all the intermediate forms between these extremes. The most inartificial of all water-craft is the ark, or Kentucky flat—a huge frame of square timbers, with a roof. It is in shape a parallelogram, and lies upon the water like a log. It hardly feels the oar, and trusts for
15. Face of the country? 16. Divisions? 17. Agriculture? 18 Manufactures? 19. Commerce? 20. Hunting? 21. Mining? 22. Diseases? 23. Inhabitants? 24. Boats and boatmen? 25. Education? 26. Manners? 27. Towns? 28. Antiquities? 29. History?
Since the last arrival of the Santa Fé and Salt Lake mails no news has reached us from those directions. The passage of emigrants into the Territories continues with increasing vigor; it now exceeds one thousand per day. We read your résume of the cause and objects of "ELI THAYER'S Virginia Emigrant Society" with great interest. It is the overflowing population of New-England going out for bread. Without being biased by any prejudice for or against any peculiar geographical parts or tastes of our whole country, a candid view, taken here in the centre of the basin of the Mississippi, suggests some philosophic criticisms, which I submit to you.
There is a radical misapprehension in the popular mind as to the true character of the "Great Plains of America," as complete as that which pervaded Europe respecting the Atlantic Ocean during the whole historic period prior to the COLUMBUS These PLAINS are not deserts, but the opposite, and are the cardinal basis of the future empire of commerce and industry now erecting itself upon the North American continent. They are calcareous and form the PASTORAL GARDEN of the world. Their position and area may be easily understood. The meridian line which terminates the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri and Iowa on the west, forms their eastern limit, and the Rocky Mountain crest their western limit. Between these limits they occupy a longitudinal parallelogram of less than one thousand miles in width, extending from the Texan to the Arctic coast.
There is no timber upon them and single trees are scarce. They have a gentle slope from the west to the east, and abound in rivers. They are clad thick with nutritious grasses, and swarm with animal life. The soil is not s[illegible]icious or sandy, but is a fine calcareous mould. They run smoothly out to the navigable rivers, the Missouri, Mississippi and St. Lawrence, and to the Texan coast. The mountain masses towards the Pacific form no serious barrier between them and that ocean. No portion of their whole sweep of surface is more than one thousand miles from the best navigation. The prospect is everywhere gently undulating and graceful, being bounded, as on the ocean, by the horizon. Storms are rare, except during the melting of the snows upon the crest of the Rocky Mountains. The climate is comparatively rainless; the rivers serve, like the Nile to irrigate rather than drain the neighboring surface, and have few affluents. They all run form west to east, having beds shallow and broad, and the basins through which they flow are flat, long and narrow. The area of the "Great Plains" is equivalent to the surface of the twenty four States between the Mississippi and the Atlantic se, but they are one homogeneous formation, smooth, uniform and continuous, without a single abrupt mountain, timbered space, desert or lake. From their ample dimensions and position they define themselves to be the pasture fields of the world. Upon them PASTORAL AGRICULTURE will become a separate grand department of national industry.
The pastoral characteristic, being novel to our people, needs a minute explanation. In traversing the continent from the Atlantic beach to the South Pass, the point of greatest altitude and remoteness from the sea, we cross successively the timbered region, the prairie region of soft soils and long annual grasses, and finally the Great Plains. The two first are irrigated by the rains coming from the sea and are arable. The last is rainless, of a compact soil, resisting the plow, and is therefore pastoral. The herbage is peculiarly adapted to the
climate and the dryness of the soil and atmosphere, and is perennial. It is edible and nutritious throughout the year. This is the "gramma" or "buffalo grass." It covers the ground one inch in height, has the appearance of a delicate moss, and its leaf has the fineness and spiral texture of a negro's hair. During the melting of the snows in the immense mountain masses at the back of the Great Plains, the rivers swelt like the Nile, and yield a copious evaporation in their long sinuous courses across the Plains: storm clouds gather on the summits, roll down the mountain flanks and discharge themselves in vernal showers. During this temporary prevalence of moist atmosphere these delicate grasses grow, seed in the root, and are cured into hay upon the ground by the gradually returning drouth. It is this longitudinal belt of perennial pasture upon which the buffalo finds his winter food, dwelling upon it without regard to the latitude, and here are the infinite herds of aboriginal cattle peculiar to North America—buffalo, wild horses, elk, antelope, white and black-tailed deer, mountain sheep, the grisly bear, wolves, the hare, badger, porcupine, and smaller animals innumerable. The aggregate number of this cattle by calculation from sound data, exceeds one hundred million. No annual fires ever sweep over the Great Plains; these are confined to the Prairie region.
The Great Plains also swarm with poultry—the turkey, the mountain cock, the prairie cock, the sand-hill crane, the curlew; water fowl of every variety, the swan, goose, brant, ducks; marmots, the armadillo, the picary, reptiles, the horned frog; birds of prey, eagles, vultures, the raven, and the small birds of game and song. The streams abound in fish. Dogs and demi wolves abound. The immense population of nomadic Indians, lately a million in number, have from immemorial antiquity, subsisted exclusively upon these aboriginal herds being unacquainted with any kind of agriculture or the habitual use of vegetable food or fruits. From this source the Indian draws exclusively his food, his lodge, his fuel, harness, clothing, bed, his ornaments, weapons and utensils. Here is his sole dependence from the beginning to the end of his existence. The innumerable carniverous animals also subsist upon them. The buffalo alone have appeared to me as numerous as the American people, and to inhabit as uniformly as large a space of the country. The buffalo robe at once suggests his adaptability to a winter climate.
The Great Plains embrace a very ample proportion of arable soil for farms. The "bottoms" of the rivers are very broad and level, having only a few inches of elevation above the waters, which descend by a rapid and even current. They may be easily and cheaply saturated by all the various systems of artificial irrigation, azequieas, artesian wells, or flooding by machinery. Under this treatment the soils, being alluvial and calcareous, both from the sulphate and carbonate formations, return a prodigious yield, and are independent of the seasons. Every variety of grain, grass, vegetable, the grape and fruits, flax, hemp, cotton, and the flora, under a perpetual sun and irrigated at the root, attain extraordinary vigor, flavor and beauty.
The Great Plains abound in fuel, and the materials for dwellings and fencing. Bituminous coal is everywhere interstratified with the calcareous and sandstone formation; it is also abundant in the flanks of the mountains, and is everywhere conveniently accessible. The order of vegetable growth being reversed by the aridity of the atmosphere, what show above as the merest bushes, radiate themselves deep into the earth, and form below an immense arborescent growth. Fuel of wood is found by digging. Plaster and lime, limestone freestone, clay and sand exist beneath almost every acre. The large and economical adobie brick, hardened in the sun and without fire, supersedes other materials for walls and fences in this dry atmosphere,
and, as in Syria and Egypt, resists decay for centuries. The dwellings thus constructed are most healthy, being impervious to heat, cold, damp and wind.
The climate of the Great Plains is favorable to health, longevity, intellectual and physical development, and stimulative of an exalted tone of social civilization and refinement. The American people and their ancestral European people having dwelt for many thousand years exclusively in countries of timber and within region of the maritime atmosphere; where Winter annihilates all vegetation annually for half the year; where all animal food must be sustained, fed and fattened by tillage with the plow; where the essential necessities of existence, food, clothing, fuel and dwellings, are secured only by constant and intense manual toil; why, to this people, heretofore, the immense empire of pastoral agriculture, at the threshhold of which we have arrived, has been as completely a blank, as was the present condition of social development on the Atlantic Ocean and the American Continent to the ordinary thoughts of the antique Greeks and Romans! Hence this immense world of plains and mountains, occupying three-fifths of our continent, so novel to them and so exactly contradictory in every feature to the existing prejudices, routine and economy of society, is unanimously pronounced an uninhabitable desert. To any reversal of such a judgement, the unanimous public opinion, the rich and poor, the wise and ignorant, the famous and obscure, agree to oppose unanimously a dogmatic and universal deafness. To them, the delineations of travelers, elsewhere intelligent, are here tinged with lunacy; the science of geography is befogged; the sublime order of Creation no longer holds, and the supreme engineering of God is at fault and a chaos of blunders!
The PASTORAL REGION is longitudinal. The bulk of it is under the temperate zone, out of which it runs into the Arctic Zone on the north, and into the Tropical Zone on the south. The parallel Atlantic arable and commercial region flanks it on the east; that of the Pacific on the west. The Great Plains then at once separate and bind together these flanks, rounding out both the variety and compactness of arrangement in the elementary details of society, which enables a continent to govern itself with the same ease as a single city.
Assuming, then, that the advancing column of progress having reached and established itself in force all along the eastern front of the Great Plains, from Louisiana to Minnesota; having also jumped over and flanked them to occupy California and Oregon; assuming that this column is about to debouch upon them to the front and occupy them with the embodied impulse of our thirty millions of population, heretofore scattered upon the flanks but now converging into phalanx upon the centre: some reflections, legitimately made, may cheer the timid and confirm those who hesitate from old opinion and the prejudices of adverse education.
It is well established that six-tenths of the food of the human family is, or ought to be, animal food, the result of pastoral agriculture. The cattle of the world consume eight times the food per head, as compared with the human family. Meat,
milk, butter, cheese, poultry, eggs, wool, leather, honey, are the productions of pastoral agriculture. Fish is the spontaneous production of the water. Nine-tenths of the labor of arable culture is expended to produce the great and grasses that sustain the present supplies to the world of the above enumerated articles of the pastoral order. If, then, a country can be found where pastoral produce is spontaneously sustained by nature, as fish in the ocean, it is manifest that arable labor, being reduced to the production of bread-food only, may condense itself to a very small per centage of its present volume, and the cultivated ground be greatly reduced in acres.
At present the pastoral culture of the American people results exclusively from the plow, and this is its amount:
It is probable that the aggregate aboriginal stock of the Great Plains still exceeds in amount the above table. It is all spontaneously supported by nature, as is the fish of the sea. Every kind of our domestic animals flourishes upon the Great Plains equally well with the wild ones. Three tame animals may be substituted for every wild one, and vast territories reoccupied, from which the wild stock has been exterminated by indiscriminate slaughter and the increase of the wolves.
The American people are about, then, to inaugurate a new and immense order of industrial production: PASTORAL AGRICULTURE.—Its fields will be the Great Plains intermediate between the oceans. Once commenced, it will develop very rapidly. We trace in their history the successive inauguration and systematic growth of several of these distinct orders: The tobacco culture, the rice culture, the cotton culture, the immense provision culture of cereals and meats, leather and wool, the gold culture, navigation external and internal, commerce external and internal, transportation by land and water, the hemp culture, the fisheries, manufactures.
Each of these has arisen as time has ripened the necessity for each, and noiselessly taken and filled its appropriate place in the general economy of our industrial empire.
This pastoral property transports itself on the hoof, and finds its food ready furnished by nature-In these elevated countries fresh meats become the preferable food for man, to the exclusion of bread, vegetables and salted articles. The atmosphere of the Great Plains is perpetually brilliant with sunshine, tonic, healthy and inspiring to the temper. It corresponds with and surpasses the historic climate of Syria and Arabia, from whence we inherit all that is ethereal and refined in our system of civilization, our religion, our sciences, our alphabet, our numerals, our written languages, our articles of food, our learning and our system of social manners.
As the site for the great central city of the "Basin of the Mississippi" to arise prospectively upon the developments now maturing, this city has the start, the geographical position, and the existing elements with which any rival will contend in vain. It is now the focal point where three developments, now near ripeness, will find their river port. 1. The pastoral development. 2. The gold, silver and salt production of the Sierra San Juan. 3. The continental railroad from the Pacific. These great fields of enterprise will all be recognized and understood by the popular mind within the coming six years, and will be under vigorous headway in ten. There must be a great city here, such as antiquity built at the head of the Mediterranean and named Jerusalem, Tyre, Alexandria, and Constantinople; such as our own people name New-York, New Orleans, San Francisco, St. Louis.
We left New-York on the 21st of March, and arrived, in due course of rail, at St. Louis, lying over, as we say in the West, a night or two for necessary rest. What an active, busy, bustling place is Chicago—busier, for its size, than New-York. Lots at New-York prices, or above; $25,000, I am told, for a choice building site.
Crossing the prairies—call it "prayers," in Western parlance—by the Illinois Central Railroad, we intersected the Terre Haute and Alton Road at Mattoon, and so to St. Louis. Railroads running north and south in this western world do a poor business. The tide sets east and west. The Illinois Central carries few passengers—those chiefly local. But their real estate is of immense value. The easy terms upon which it is sold make it a profitable investment for the farmer, and it not unfrequently happens that, dissatisfied with his prairie life, the New-Englander abandons his farm and forfeits the first installment.
To live on a prairie! Worse fate than to live at sea. The same boundless view—level as far as the eye can reach. In the far distance a house, on the range of the horizon, like a ship at sea, but with this inferiority in interest, that it does not move. Yet there is something impressive in its vast extent. To the sportsman it is a paradise. Prairie chickens, call them "chickens" simply, start up at every every step, flutter a few feet, then settle again into the grass. Flocks of wild ducks start from their feeding grounds. Wild geese take their swift and distant flight. A bird, which I take to be plover, abounds; and the great, awkward, long-legged crane, known as the sand-hill crane (where will he find sand in Illinois?) rises slowly from the ground, or looms up like an ostrich on the prairie.
You ask what are those numerous mounds, like graves in a churchyard, or a city of prairie dogs. They are the homes of the gopher, a small animal like a rat, abounding in many places, as the farmer knows to his cost. The land speculator, however, looks upon them with a more favorable eye, for they tell unerringly of wet, marshy land.
St. Louis is a great city, destined to be greater. She has excellent bituminous coal within the city limits. A few months will open a railroad to the Iron Mountain, where you shovel iron from the surface of the earth in inexhaustible quantities and of 75 per cent of purity. She has her hundreds of miles of navigation, on the Mississippi at least. The Missouri, in an Eastern man's view, is scarcely navigable at all.
Leaving St. Louis in the afternoon we took the cars for Jefferson City, and then on board the boat. The Pacific Railroad is one of the best in the country—the best I have been on in the West. They run it with a speed of twenty-five miles an hour, and with great regularity. In the Fall they will open another section of thirty or forty miles, and three years will probably see it completed to the Kansas border at Kansas City.
But what a country it runs through to Jefferson City, on hundred and twenty-five miles! The poorest and wildest part of Massachusetts, the mountains on the line of the Western Road, between Springfield and Worcester, is rich and tame comparatively. The soil miserable, except in the swamps, where the Missouri has an unpleasant habit of dropping in unawares, and taking forcible possession of your bed.
A few miles beyond Jefferson City, the character of the country changes. The western and north-western sections of the State are very fertile—prairie land, interspersed with sufficient timber.
At Jefferson City, we took the Pacific Company's Lightning Line boat, the Australia—somewhat of a misnomer, as we shall presently see.
Were you ever on board a Missouri steamer? Imagine an enormous scow, say 150 feet by 40, drawing three and a half feet water—no more. Upon her main deck place the machinery, the freight, bunks for the emigrants, wood for the furnaces, coal for the stoves, accommodations for the
crew. In her hold put nothing but ballast—there is no room. Ship a crew of Germans and Irish—principally the former. Have no guards to your boat, that you may fall overboard comfortably, and you have a Missouri steamer.
The cabin passengers live (exist is a better word), entirely upon the state-room deck. Here they eat, sleep, wash (those who indulge in that luxury), chew and spit. The ladies' cabin is here too, part of the long saloon, distinguished in the day by the difference in the chairs, at night by a drawn curtain.
But the bell rings and we are off. To-morrow I will write you an accoount of our first day's experience.
H.We got off at 9 o'clock last evening, and at 9½ we got on—not in the popular signification, but literally. This great river, great in its length and width, but if depth is an element of greatness, then this little river, is filled with sand bars. They are as fickle as women (according to the popular notion of that sex), or Buchanan's mind—to-day in one place, to-morrow in another. The pilot's knowledge of the channel is of importance, but he depends more upon his eye. The skilful pilot knows the channel by the different appearance of the water—the differennt shades of yellow—for this river is exactly the color of the Yellow Tiber, and about as navigable.
The admirers of the Missouri, and strange to say, it has its admirers, tell you that the water is delicious. That it looks a little muddy, it is true, but let it stand a few minutes, and the mud settles to the bottom, and it is clear. Do no believe them; I have let it stand many minutes and without visible effect.
Some 500 miles above her, the Missouri flows through a desert of light sand. Here it sweeps down immense quantities of the light particles—so light that with the swiftness of the stream they cannot settle, and are borne to the sea. Yet the water is healthy. As drawn from the river, it is substantially muddy, but when allowed to settle for half a day, or cleared with charcoal and Indian meal, it looks as if you had drank milk out of your tumbler and forgot to rinse it.
Sand-bars are the great obstruction to the navigation of the Missouri. Snags are objectionable and sawyers have their inconveniences. Do you know, O TRIBUNE! the difference between a snag and a sawyer? A snag fastens its roots into the bed of the river, points its floating trunk down the stream, keeping its head concealed just below the surface of the water. The unsuspecting boat rushes upon the hidden foe—he pierces her quivering breast, and she meets an untimely (in many cases I should say, a timely) end. Now, your sawyer is a more generous foe. He scorns ambushes. He is generally in some shallow spot—his trunk pointing up stream, and his whole body exposed. If the foolish boat rushes upon him, she deserves her fate.
I believe I left you on a sand-bar. Well, we got off luckier than some boats that lay there a month. We effected our escape by an ingenious process to which boats under such circumstances resort. They carry above their bow two enormous derricks—shores I believe they call them. These are let down upon the bed of the river on either side—and by means of ropes and pulleys, the bow of the boat is fairly lifted into the air. Then the swift current sweeps under, washes out the sand, and the boat backs out, or advances again to renew the process.
Now give ear while I tell you of life on a Missouri steamer.
The boat has accommodations for seventy people—we have two hundred. After securing our state-room (engaged by telegraph), and lucky to get it (one hundred sleep on the floor), we have time to look about. What is this chiming of bells? Have we the Swiss or Lancashire bell-ringers on board? All shades of sound, from the little tinkling breakfast-bell to the deep bass of the City Hall! I listen, erectis auribus. It is only the signals of the helmsman to the engineer: "Slow," "Back," "Half-speed," "Go ahead," "Starboard engine," "Larboard engine," &c. Why, it must take a very Champolion of acoustics to interpret all those sounds. [cutaway]
The supper bill rings. For the last half hour the sides of the saloon have been lined with rows of hungry expectants, each man holding on to his chair. At the sound, the chairs are advanced with a rush.
The occupants fall to. We wait for the second table, painfully anxious that the plates and cups must be rinsed in Missouri water; that the table cloth will not be of the cleanest, and that the milk will be sure to have given out. N. B.—The milk is always giving out on these Western waters. The supper bell rings a second time, and we take our turn; and so for the third or fourth time before all are fed.
Now for bed. Imagine a closet 2½ by 5 beside the berths; for furniture, a looing glass—room lighted by a ventilator, so called—no chairs—no wash basin—no nothing.
You turn in fear and trembling. Fear, lest the stout man in the upper berth should come down upon you; and trembling enough from the motion of the boat (when in motion).
Did you ever see the Ravels in the spectacle of "Mazulm, or The Night Owl?" Do you remember the scene where a huge press falls upon the clown, and he is flattened to a pancake?
Such, O TRIBUNE, was nearly the fate last night of your correspondent. Happily he escaped. Happily he still preserves his natural form—teres atque rotundus.
In the watches of the night, when all eyes save the faithful helmsman's were closed in oblivion, and the boat was lying comfortably on a sand bar, I was awakened by a sudden crash. I had but time to throw up my right arm, when the avalanche descended. My room mate, a solid man, turned in his berth—rash man! These berths were not made to turn in. The motion was too much for the slats—they bent, yielded, and down came the threatening mass, solid man, mattress, slats and bed clothes, in one heterogeneous whole. Now mark the foresight of the owner of this boat in providing such low berths and small state-rooms. Had the distance been greater, the acquired momentum would have been greater too, and I should have been crushed to a jelly. As it was, I escaped scathless.
In the morning I sally forth for a walk. No need to inquire the way. I see a cue extending from the wash-room far into the cabin. I await my turn. In due time it comes. We have three small basins (one out of order) for two hundred persons. But hold! Deduc; seventy-five for those who never wash their faces, and we have only one hundred and twenty-five for the three basins.
I draw the Missouri water and rinse my face—I cannot be said to wash it. I wipe upon the common towel. To the evident surprise of the waiting crowd I proceed to clean my teeth in the one tumbler provided for that purpose. This, by the way, is an operation I have seen performed here but by two persons—myself and a darkey.
Place aux dames. This morning I had secured, with infinite difficulty and the tenacity of a bull-dog, a place at the first table. Already I felt a comfortable assurance of plates tolerably clean, and oh! rare luxury, milk to my coffee, when—horrible sight!—I saw three women advancing upon me. "These ladies have no places, gentlemen." Oh, Benton, Benton! politically you are a humbug, but I reverence you prandially.
The bell rings again—the large one this time. We approach a landing. On a high mud-bank are two houses and a barn. But where is the wharf? Nowhere. The boat runs her nose into the mud; the stage (gang-plank) is thrust ashore. One of the hands runs out with a line, and fastens it to a tree. The men carry the freight up the bank, mud up to their ankles, and deposit it in the mud. No shelter, and it is raining hard. The rope is untied, the boat shoves off. She makes a few revolutions. Bump, bump, bump, she goes, and we just escape striking upon a sand-bar.
The passengers are grouped into knots—some playing cards, some singing glees, some reading, some writing—all spitting.
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The women are in the ladies' parlor, the children are crying, the rain is pouring, and the boat is aground—pity the sorrows of a Kansas emigrant.
A word upon Slavery. Missouri is only nominally a Slave State. Intelligent men in all parts of the State predict that in eight years she will be free. Slavery now shows none of the horrors of the institution as it exists in the Southern States. Almost all the slaves here held are house servants; but few field hands. There are no overseers, with the inevitable whip. The Missourians are becoming convinced, from the flow of emigration into Kansas, that it is for their interest that Missouri should be free. Convince them of this, and Slavery will soon be abolished.
Three hundred thousand dollars have been appropriated by Congress for a wagon road from Fort Kearney, in Nebraska, via the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, to the eastern boundary of California via Honey Lake. This I notice under the HERALD'S Washington News of the 9th ult. This is the first connecting link between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. Under an act of Congress of about one year ago an appropriation of some $50,000 was obtained for a road from Omaha City to Fort Kearney, which, although poorly done, has been surveyed and laid out. The road mentioned in this last bill, from Fort Kearney to California, is therefore but a continuation of that road. It is for the north side of the Platte river.
The distance from this place to Fort Kearney is about 210 miles, with the Elkhorn, Loupe Fork and Wood rivers to cross, besides a number of creeks. The distance from Fort Kearney to the Boiling Springs, near the boundary line of California, is about 1.300 miles further. The HERALD's Washington report has the bill read via Honey Lake. There is no such lake, if I recollect aright, and my impression is it if intended to read Humboldt Lake, (a name familiar to every overland traveller.) Of course, from the South pass, the road is intended to pass Salt Lake City, or what would be more practicable, around the north side of the lake, thence direct to Humboldt Lake, &c. This road (if the appropriation be carefully expended) will be of much value to the settlers of Nebraska and Utah Territories. Yet it lacks another bill to render it complete, viz: a generous disposal of Uncle Samuel's powder and lead, dealt out by his soldiery amongst the numerous warlike tribes of Indians who infest the country through which the road runs. It needs less of Grandmother Manypenny's presents, and more hard knocks, to keep them in a respectable state of subjection, so that the road may be more generally and fearlessly travelled.
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A gentleman from Iowa visited the News Boys' Lodging rooms, in the Sun Building, a few months ago, and was much pleased with the arrangements for their comfort, amusement and instruction. On leaving, he promised Mr. TRACY that he would write and tell the boys something about the West. The following is the letter. Th boys concluded that any man who would take the trouble to write such a letter, and then put two post stamps on it to send it to New York, felt interested in their welfare, and they wanted to hear from him again.
MR. TRACY—DEAR SIR,—Often since I visited your mill for grinding loafing newsboys into men, have I thought of my promise to write, though, hitherto, without effect.
It has been a question whether The Sun was inhabited, but, having been favored with a flight to his buildings, I am now prepared to acquaint my neighbors with the fact, and give them a description of its dwellers. As an interchange of ideas with us Western people may be pleasing to your subjects, O man of the Sun—permit me to tell them of some of our peculiarities.
Very likely they have learned that the State in which I live, is part of the western slope of the great Mississippi valley. We are well supplied with rivers, but few of them are navigable except the Missouri and Mississippi, which form the eastern and southern boundaries of the State. The surface of the land is generally hilly along the Mississippi river, but a few miles back it becomes more level—not as many suppose, very flat, but gently rising and falling from ten to a hundred feet in distance varying from one to twenty miles. Some have compared the appearance to the rolling waves of the sea. The larger portion of the land—perhaps three-fourths or more—is without timber and is now covered with a vast sheet of snow. In summer it appears as beautiful as a gentleman's lawn—and in fall, when the fires have passed over, a black and ugly view is all we have.
A prairie fire is a grand and beautiful sight, but extremely dangerous to property. Only imagine all the gas works of New York in a close line, and burning jest of flame four feet high, marching before the wind in a steady course, far as the eye can reach, and with no light in the heavens to dim the lustre, and you get some idea of the thing. Then it is that neighbors congregate for mutual protection and each armed with an old rag or cloth on the end of a stick, or a bunch of green brush or willow, and a pail of water to dip it in, following the line of fire with the wind. I tell you, boys, it's no fun, especially if your hay-stack or fence or field of corn are in the way. White men change color at such times, so that you would hardly know your brother.
Last September, an accidental spark was dropped near my house; the wind was high, and soon the flames got beyond immediate control; men, women and children rushed to the spot, and succeeded in controlling the flames a little—but in an hour it was a mile beyond our reach. My six-acre field of corn was in its way; in a minute it rushed through and left half the fence on fire, and a quarter of a mile of it was finally consumed. This was a rapid way of making rather poor charcoal. Our fingers were somewhat scorched in throwing out the rails.
Probably your subjects know that many of the States near the Mississippi river are principally composed of these prairies. Very likely these thousands of square miles were once the bed of a great inland sea, which afterwards emptied into the great northern lakes, and made its way into the Atlantic. This would account for our scarcity of timber, and the rich soil we often find several feet and seldom less than eighteen inches deep. Besides, we sometimes find in the earth evidences of the action of water, in the appearance of pebbles worn round and pretty. I have also dug up coral, which, you know, is made by insects only, in oceans near the surface.
It is a beautiful country for farming; plenty of good land, where not a stone or a stump can be seen upon the surface for miles. But for those who like more timber—as I do—beautiful homes may be found. Mine is on the west border of a grove containing some six square miles of wood. I have built upon a gravelly ridge near a pretty stream, which, after joining the Wapsipinicon river, empties 100 miles off, in the Mississipipi . This ridge extends about four miles north of me, and is covered, in Spring and Summer, with grass and scattering trees, just about as far apart as those in your Park. It seems as though nature had planned these "oak openings" for a great pleasure grove. When May or June comes, then it becomes a great flower garden—plants that beautify your most carefully cultivated gardens, here bloom wild, and a beautiful boquet may be gathered in three minutes.
We have some wild animals here—enough for the hunters—but none dangerous. Some hundred deer have been shot this winter within five miles of us. Rabbits are very numerous. I saw a wolf last week, but they are scarce. Minks and otters are caught
here, too. Their fur is valuable. Prairie chickens and wild ducks, and sand hill cranes, four feet high, may be seen in the fall in very large flocks—perhaps a hundred in each flock. Black-birds are every where by the thousand, but we do not kill them; they are too small game, besides being tough eating.
But you ought to hear the songs of the birds in the Spring. We need no cages. Much more pleasure is enjoyed in seeing them at liberty, filling the air with music. I have told you about the earth, now let me say, when the sun or moon shines here we see such clearness of skies as you New Yorkers seldom have.
We have sometimes in winter, mocks suns—called here "sun dogs," I suppose because they follow their master. When the frost fills the air with glittering mist, then you may see them on each side, rising and traveling all day long, and setting in splendor with him. (I forget you are Sun folks and must know all about it, but perhaps you don't, for it is said the earth shines like the moon, but few of us know it—none have seen it.) Then sometimes the moon has its "dogs" or whatever they may be called. Last night it had four big rays and two big circles, surrounding it, with several other moons in them. It was very grand, but the air was so pinching cold I hardly stayed to count them.
Now boys, I have lived in the city most of my life, but I like the country best. Let me beg for you to listen to Mr. TRACY's advice—study your books, and above all imitate whatever is noble and lovely in the characters of those which you read about. Avoid the theatre. It is a bad school. Never swear—" 'tis neither brave, polite, nor wise." Honor your Maker, and read the message of his love in the Bible, and be assured that whatever you may be, or wherever you may live, you cannot be happy without a good conscience.
If you like what I have written, and I have any yarns left to spin, perhaps I may write again to you.
KILLED AN OTTER.—Stephen H. Luther killed a[covered] otter a few days ago in Warwick R. I., which was five feet long, weighed twenty-five pounds, and the skin is worth $15. These animals are rarely seen in New England. This one fought like a tiger, and the man and his dog with difficulty, conquered him.
On pages 328 and 329 of the present number, will be found two spirited engravings of American scenes, from drawings made expressly for us by Mr. Hill, whose graceful pencil has become so familiar with our subscribers. One of these is a scene in the far Northwest, on the shores of Lake Superior, where noble specimens of the red man are still to be found. It represents the Indians receiving their annual payment from the United States government. The rendezvous is selected, the time generally being the fall of the year. The Indians congregate in large numbers at the appointed spot.
On arriving at their destination, they cut poles and erect their wigwams, and sometimes loaf about months before the agent arrives; very often reduced to extremities, and spending their allowance before they get it, with some of the hard dealing traders who supply them with rum and other goods at exorbitant prices. Others more thrifty would come, perhaps only a day beforehand, and receiving their money, return at once. As a general thing it does not appear to be of much service to them. In our picture, the agent is sitting at a table under an awning, listening to an Indian discoursing on some offence or imaginary wrong. With and behind the agent, are a military officer from some neighboring garrison and other friends and visitors on the occasion. In the foreground are groups of the natives, their dress consisting of various modifications of the Indian and Canadian fashions, with the universal blanket. Among the centre figures, the hard feature of the trader and the honest phiz of the soldier escort, are conspicuous. The man with beard and otter-skin coat to match, assists in the distribution of the blankets and other articles. In the background is the encampment, built under shelter of some of the basaltic rocks which form a feature of the district.
The other picture is taken from the Canadian fur districts, and represents a trading block-house at Presque-Isle River, with the dog mail train passing in the middle distance. These block-houses—built strongly of squared logs, for the purposes of trade and protection to the Hudson Bay Company's dependents, and themselves protected by a system of forts spread over the wilderness—are generally very picturesquely situated on a bend of a river or the arm of a lake, the superintendent reigning supreme over the neighboring country.
Here the Indians and Canadian hunters and trappers resort with spoils of the forest, to be transferred thence by voyageurs to the settlements. And here the Canadian boatman is seen in all his glory—rollicking, lighthearted, patient and good-humored,—with scarcely a care beyond the tie of his sash, an ornament without which, his picturesque dress of embroidered shirt, trousers, and Indian cap and feather, would be incomplete.
The block-house occupies the centre of the picture backed by the tall, dark pines of this region, sometimes reaching an altitude of two or three hundred feet. To the right, over the river, is one of the characteristic forts of the Fur Company, consisting of a wood or stone wall, enclosing a considerable space, at each angle defended by block built towers, with one or two ports for small pieces of artillery, and loop-holes for musketry. In the enclosure are the buildings of the company, including the governor's house, ware-house, barracks, etc. In the foreground is a trapper who has just "come in" on snow shoes, with a load of beaver skins drawn behind his trained dogs. Other hunters preparing to start, an Indian chief smoking, and some of the resident employees, finish the group, behind which is the dog train carrying the mails, and accompanied by the agent and his wild assistants, who join with the dogs in a continuous chorus of yelling and howling—a noise diabolical on a close acquaintance, but quite musical in the distance. The distance they accomplish under favorable circumstances is surprising; on the frozen lakes and river, often amounting to [cutaway]miles a day. Four or five months in the year, they form al[cutaway] communication with the settlements, running the[cutaway]ican territory as far south as Detroit.
motion mainly to the current. It is fifteen feet wide, from fifty to eighty feet long, and carries from 200 to 400 barrels. These arks are often filled with the goods and families of emigrants, and contain even the carriages and domestic animals. They are also used for shops of various kinds of goods, which are sold at the different towns, and some of them are fitted up as the workshops of artificers. There are also keelboats, and barges, which are light and well built; skiffs, that will carry from two persons to five tons; "dug-outs," or pirogues, made of hollowed logs, and other vessels, for which language has no name, and the sea no parallel. Since the use of steamboats, many of the other craft have disappeared, and the number of river boatmen has been diminished by many thousands.
25. Education.—All that is practicable is done for education in these states. The importance of the subject is properly estimated by the state legislatures, and the number of native inhabitants who cannot read or write is not large. A common education is within the reach of nearly all.
26. Manners and Customs.—The use of the rifle is carried to the greatest perfection. Hospitality, generosity, and rude courtesy are characteristics of the people. The men are distinguished for their skill and daring as soldiers. Athletic sports are chiefly in vogue. Camp meetings are held on a great scale, and draw together large numbers of people. The political orators perform circuits, in which they meet each other face to face, setting forth their views before the assembled freemen. Barbecues are feasts somewhat in the Indian fashion, where animals are roasted whole; several hundreds sometimes partaking of the entertainment. The wild, free habits of the west have given rise to a style of humor which becomes amusing, from its extravagance. A number of pithy commonplaces, such as " Go ahead," "Waking up the wrong passenger," "Barking up the wrong tree," &c., had their origin here. These have passed into general use, and are even transplanted to England.
27. Towns.—The chief towns of the Western States are as follows, with their distances from Cincinnati: Table listing the population in 1840, population in 1850 and distance from Cincinnati of the following cities: Cincinnati, Ohio, Louisville, Ky., Milwaukee, Wis., Chicago, Ill., Nashville, Tenn., St. Louis, Mo., and Indianapolis, Ia.
28. Antiquities.—There are numerous remains of antiquity in the Western States, which are supposed to have been the work of populous tribes who preceded the present races of Indians. These consist of mounds and inclosures of various forms. They are found at a number of places in Ohio, Illinois, and other parts. Very extensive works of this kind are also found in Mississippi. The mounds were probably used as burial-places, and the inclosures for military purposes.
29. History.—The first discovery within the Western States was made by De Soto and his party, in 1541, who went as far north as New Madrid, in Missouri. The first settlements were those of the French, in the region of the northern lakes, and down the Mississippi. Tennessee was settled in 1765, Kentucky in 1770, and Ohio soon after. The history of the states will be given under their heads.
1. Characteristics.—This is a new state, with a fine climate, and a small population.
2. Mountains.—The Ozark chain crosses the northwestern part of this state, being here called the Black Mountains. The whole range is sometimes called the Masserne Mountains, though this term is applied to a branch which extends eastwardly nearly to the Missouri River. These mountains have been little explored. Some of the elevations are said to be 2000 feet in hight. Near the southwest part of the state is a detached elevation, called Mt. Prairie.
3. Valleys.—There are several valleys of great beauty in this state, especially that of the Arkansas and Washita rivers.
4. Rivers.—The Arkansas, one of the greatest tributaries of the Mississippi, traverses this state from northwest to southeast. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, and, pursuing a southeast course, empties into the Mississippi four hundred miles above the mouth of the Red River. It is remarkable for the regularity of its curves, and the beauty of the young cotton-wood groves that spring up on the hillocks along its border. In the spring floods, steamboats can ascend it nearly to the mountains. White River has its sources in the Black Mountains, which separate its waters from those of the Arkansas. Flowing east, it receives the Black River; after which its course is southerly. Map of Arkansas Extent, 52,198 square miles. Admitted into the Union, 1836. Visited by De Soto in 1541. Population in 1850, 209,897.—Pop. to the square mile, 4.02. Near its mouth, it separates into two branches—one joining the Arkansas, the other the Mississippi. The Washita
Exercises on the Map of Arkansas.—Extent of Arkansas? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? In which direction does the Arkansas River flow in this state? Where does it empty? In which direction does the White River run? Capital of Arkansas? Where is Columbia? Smithville? Ozark?
LESSON XLIX. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys?
13 [begin surface 438]is a noble river, flowing through a fertile and beautiful region. The Cache, St. Francis, and Bartholomew are smaller streams. The Red River crosses the southwestern corner of the state. It is here obstructed by accumulations of driftwood and fallen trees, called rafts.
5. Prairies.—A great part of the surface of this state consists of prairies. One of these is ninety miles in length.
6. Mineral Springs.—Sixty miles north of Little Rock are the Hot Springs, much resorted to. There are also sulphur and chalybeate springs, beneficial in certain diseases.
7. Vegetable Products.—The common forest trees of the Western States are found here. The bottom-lands are heavily timbered. The beech is abundant. In many places, the hills are covered with red cedars and savines. Grapes and whortleberries, in high perfection, abound. Cotton flourishes in the southern part, and grains in the north.
8. Animals.—Wild animals abound, such as the deer, elk, otter, badger, beaver, rabbit, gopher, raccoon, wildcat, cougar, wolf, bear, wild-geese, turkeys, quail, grouse, ducks, &c. The buffalo is becoming scarce.
9. Minerals.—Iron-ore, gypsum, limestone, anthracite, and other coal appear to be abundant. Near the Washita is a quarry of oil-stone. Salt occurs in saline tracts, extending across the state from north to south. Here is a salt prairie, which is covered for miles with pure crystallized salt, five or six inches deep. Vast masses of sea-shells are found, which are burnt and used for lime.
10. Climate.—This is variable. At the north it resembles that of Missouri; at the south, it is like that of Louisiana. The shores of the Arkansas, as far up as Little Rock, are unhealthy. Great tracts, on all sides, are covered with sleeping lakes, and stagnant bayous. The country in these parts is a dead level, and the waters of the heavy rains, which sometimes last for four weeks together, cannot be drained off. The prairie country is more healthy, and the elevated regions of the northwest are highly salubrious.
11. Soil.—This is of all qualities, from the best to the most sterile. Along the White River, the St. Francis, and the Washita, there are highly productive tracts of land. The soil of the prairies is not, in general, fertile. A considerable portion of the state consists of unproductive land.
12. Face of the Country.—For some distance up the Arkansas and White River the country is an extensive, heavily-timbered, and deeply-inundated swamp. Along the banks of the Mississippi, also, there is an almost continued flooded forest. In the interior there are vast plains or prairies, and sterile ridges.
13. Agriculture.—Cotton is the staple, but it is an uncertain crop in the northern counties. Wheat does well in the high country; maize and sweet potatoes in the rich lands; rye and barley everywhere. Peaches are excellent and abundant.
14. Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the counties of Arkansas with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
15. Manufactures.—These are of small extent, but increasing. The domestic manufactures are considerable.
16. Commerce.—This is almost confined to the export of agricultural products to New Orleans; yet the state has great advantages for trade, and this is increasing.
17. Education.—In 1850 Arkansas had 353 public schools, attended by 8493 scholars; 90 academies and other schools, attended by 2407 pupils; and 3 colleges, attended by 150 students. The colleges are all under Roman Catholic influence.
18. Inhabitants.—The people are chiefly emigrants from the southern and western states. There are some descendants of the ancient French settlers.
19. Chief Towns.—Little Rock, on the south bank of the Arkansas, and 300 miles from its mouth, is the seat of government It is situated on a bluff, nearly two hundred feet above the river, and is regularly laid out, having been first settled in 1820. Arkansas is an ancient French settlement, the inhabitants of which are mostly descendants of French and Indians. Columbia and Helena, on the Mississippi, Batesville, on White River, Fayetteville, in the northwestern part of the state, and Fulton, on the Red River, are considerable and growing places.
20. History.—The first white men who visited the country must have been De Soto and his band, who passed up and down the Mississippi in 1541. The French had some small settlements here, soon after their occupation of the country below. Arkansas was a part of the Louisiana purchase. It was made a separate territory in 1819, and was admitted into the Union in 1836.
4. Rivers? 5. Prairies? 6. Mineral springs? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Face of the country? 13. Agriculture? 14. Divisions? 15. Manufactures? 16. Commerce? 17. Education? 18. Inhabitants? 19. Chief towns? 20. History? When was Arkansas admitted into the Union?
1. Characteristics.—Missouri is remarkable for its great extent, and its rich and varied mineral products.
2. Mountains.—The southern part of the state is traversed by the Ozark mountains, which have been noticed under the head of Arkansas. East of these is a ridge called Iron Mountain, from the masses of iron ore found in some of its peaks. 8. Prairies.—There are prairies of great extent in the northwestern part of the state.
4. Rivers.—Washed on its eastern border by the Mississippi, and traversed from west to east by the Missouri, this state has the advantage of extensive and easy water communication with the whole Mississippi valley. The Osage, which joins the Missouri in the center of the state, is a fine, navigable river, running through a fertile country; boats ascend it 600 miles. The Gasconade, which falls into the Missouri below the Osage, is navigable for boats sixty-six miles. The Maramec falls into the Mississippi below the Missouri; it is navigable 50 miles. The St. Francis, White and Big Black rivers rise in the south, and pass into Arkansas. Grand and Chariton rivers fall into the Missouri from the north. Salt River is a branch of the Mississippi in the same quarter. These are navigable for boats.
5. Vegetable Products.—The river bottoms are covered with heavy forest trees of the common kinds. Yellow pine grows on the poor soil of the southwest. The richer prairies are covered with grass and weeds so tall as to make it difficult to travel on horseback. Various grains, flax, and hemp are easily cultivated.
6. Animals.—The bison, formerly abundant in the prairies, has nearly disappeared from the state. The bear, deer, elk, wolf, and smaller quadrupeds are still found in considerable numbers. Wild turkeys and several species of grouse are also met with.
7. Minerals.—These are various and abundant, including lead, iron, coal, salt, limestone, gypsum, zinc, antimony, plumbago, iron pyrites, arsenic, copper, and potter's clay. The lead mines are inexhaustible. They are in the eastern part of the state, south of the Missouri, chiefly in Washington county. In this quarter are Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob, which are two enormous masses of iron ore, about 300 feet high. The mines are extensively worked.
8. Climate.—This state is subject to greater extremes of temperature than any other in the western country. The summer is intensely hot, and the winter often so severe that the Missouri is frozen so as to be crossed by loaded wagons.
9. Soil.—The soil of this state contains more sand, and
is more loamy and friable than that of the lands upon the
Ohio. The alluvial prairies are nearly as fertile as the
river bottoms. The rich uplands have a dark gray soil,
except about the lead mines, where it is of a reddish color.
Nearly
[begin surface 440]
10. Face of the Country.—The northwestern part of the state is a wide prairie. The central and southwestern parts are hilly and broken; the southeastern is low, swampy, full of lakes, and subject to inundation. The best portion of the state lies between the Missouri and the Mississippi. It has an undulating surface, with large tracts of alluvial and hilly prairies.
11. Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the counties of Missouri with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
Exercises on the Map of Missouri.—Boundaries of Missouri? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What river bounds the state on the west? On the east? What river crosses the northern part of the state? Describe the following rivers: Osage; Gasconade; Maumce. Capital? Direction of the following places from Jefferson City; St. Louis; Independence; St. Charles; Potosi: Herculaneum; New Madrid.
LESSON L. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Prairies? 4. Rivers? 5. Vegetable products? 6. Animals? 7. Minerals? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Face of the country?
[begin surface 441]Continuation of table listing the counties of Missouri with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
12. Agriculture.—Hemp and flax and the small grains are the staple productions. Cotton grows in the southeastern part of the state, and the fruits of the temperate regions thrive.
13. Manufactures.—Various, and increasing.
14. Commerce.—The principal trade centers at St. Louis, which is the commercial depth of the Upper Mississippi valley. St. Louis is also the seat of an extensive Indian trade, and of the overland Santa Fé trade.
15. Education.—Missouri in 1850 had 1,570 primary and public schools, attended by 51,574 scholars; 204 academies and other schools, attended by 8,829 pupils; and nine universities and colleges, attended by 1,009 students. The principal collegiate institutions are the University of St. Louis at St. Louis, and the Missouri University at Columbia. There are also several theological and medical schools in the state.
16. Chief Towns.—St. Louis, a city, and the principal one in the state, is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, twenty miles below its junction with the Missouri. It was founded in 1764, but first became flourishing since the cession of Louisiana to the United States. Its position has rendered it an important commercial dépôt, and it has an active river trade. It is 1200 miles above New Orleans, and the river is here navigable, at all stages of water for the largest steamboats, but is sometimes closed by ice in winter. Steamboats run regularly to New Orleans, Louisville, and Pittsburg; to Fort Snelling, 725 miles above St. Louis, on the Mississippi; to Fort Leavenworth, 400 miles up the Missouri; and to the various intermediate places. This city is 1021 miles from Fort Laramie, 1521 from Salt Lake, and 2300 from San Francisco. Jefferson City, on the Missouri, in the center of the state, is the capital. Hannibal City, on the Mississippi, opposite Douglas, in Illinois, and the Eastern terminus of the H. and St. Joseph railroad, is a new and increasing town. It is expected that this railroad will be continued to the Pacific. Hermann, St. Joseph, Glasgow, and Booneville, all on the Missouri, are growing towns. Independence is a dépôt for traders with Santa Fé. Herculaneum and Potosi are villages, deriving importance from the lead mines.
17. Inhabitants.—This state was first settled by the French, and has still a considerable population of French descent. The other and more recent settlers are mostly from the eastern states; but the number of foreigners is also large. The slaves constitute about one-eighth part of the population.
18. History.—This state was visited by De Soto in 1541. Some settlements were made by the French in 1764. It was part of the Louisiana purchase, but previous to its acquisition by the United States it contained few inhabitants. In 1804 it became a territory, and in 1820 a state. The question of admitting this state with or without slavery produced great excitement in Congress. It was finally admitted under what is called the Missouri Compromise, advocated by Mr. Clay. This tolerated slavery in Missouri, but fixed the latitude of 36° 30´ as a line, north of which slavery should not exist in the territory of the United States. It is now claimed that this proviso was unconstitutional.
19. Earthquakes.—Shocks of earthquakes have frequently been felt in this state. Several shocks were felt at Kaskaskia in 1804, by which the soldiers stationed there were aroused from sleep. In 1812, wide chasms opened in the earth, from which columns of water and sand burst forth; hills disappeared, and lakes took their place; the beds of lakes were raised, and became dry land; rivers changed their course, and the Mississippi flowed backward toward its source for a whole hour, until its accumulated waters gathered strength to break through the barrier that had damned them back; boats were dashed to pieces, electric fires flashed through the air, and rumblings were heard in the earth. Wide forests were also swallowed up. At the same time, violent agitations occurred in the Azores and the West Indies, while the cities of Caracas and Laguayra were nearly destroyed.
11. Divisions? 12. Agriculture? 13. Manufactures? 14. Commerce? 15. Education? 16. Towns? 17. Inhabitants? 18. History? Missouri Compromise? 19. Earthquakes? Give a description of the shock of 1812.
1. Characteristics.—This is the oldest of the Western States, and enjoys a remarkably fine climate.
2. Mountains.—Several parallel chains of the Appalachian system traverse the eastern part of the state. The Cumberland Mountains, a continuation of the Laurel chain, enter the state from Virginia, extend through it in a south-westerly direction, dividing it into two natural sections, called by geographers East Tennessee and West Tennessee, and pass into Alabama. The eastern boundary is formed by the Kittatinny chain, under the local names of Iron Mountain, Bald Mountain, Unika Mountain, &c. The Cumberland chain is nowhere above 1000 feet in elevation.
3. Valleys.—The valleys of the small rivers are extremely beautiful, and rich beyond any of the same description in the Western States. The valleys of the great streams, the Tennessee and Cumberland, differ little from the alluvions of the other great rivers of the West. In the small valleys are many fine plantations, so lonely that they seem lost among the mountains.
4. Rivers.—The Tennessee rises in the Alleghany Mountains, traverses East Tennessee and part of Alabama, re-enters Tennessee, crosses almost the whole width of it into Kentucky, and runs into the Ohio, fifty-seven miles above its junction with the Mississippi. It is near 1200 miles in length, and is the largest tributary of the Ohio. It has numerous branches, and is navigable for boats for 1000 miles; most of the branches rise among the mountains, and are too shallow for navigation, except during the floods, which take place occasionally at all seasons of the year, and allow flat-boats to be floated down to the main stream. The principal branches are the Holston, Clinch, French Broad, and Hiwassee. The river Cumberland rises in the Cumberland Mountains in Kentucky, and after a course of nearly 200 miles in that state, passes into Tennessee, through which it makes a circuit of 250 miles, when it re-enters Kentucky, and falls into the Ohio. Steamboats of the largest size ascend this river to Nashville, and keel-boats, in moderate stages of the water, 300 miles further. The Obion, Forked Deer, and Wolf rivers, in the western part of the state, flow into the Mississippi; these are all navigable for boats. No part of the western country is better watered than Tennessee.
5. Curiosities.—The mountains of this state contain many remarkable caverns, most of which abound in nitrous earth. One of them, 400 feet below the surface, consists of smooth limestone rock, with a stream of water sufficient to turn a mill. A cave on a high peak of the Cumberland Mountains has a perpendicular descent, the bottom of which has never been sounded. Big Bone Cave was found to contain huge bones of the mastodon and megalonyx. The Enchanted Mountains, which are spurs of the Cumberland ridge, have footprints of men, horses, and other animals distinctly marked in the solid limestone rock. The human feet have six toes, and one of the tracks is sixteen inches long.
6. Vegetable Products.—Nearly all the forest trees of the western country are found in this state. Juniper, red cedar, and savin cover the mountains. The sugar-maple is abundant. Many medicinal plants are indigenous. Apples, pears, and plums are raised in perfection. Tobacco, hemp, and cotton flourish.
7. Animals.—Deer, wild turkeys, grouse, and the smaller quadrupeds are still abundant in parts of this state.
8. Minerals.—Gypsum, marble, and iron are the most valuable and abundant mineral productions. Lead mines have been worked, and saltpeter is obtained from the nitrous earth of the limestone caves. The gold region extends into the northeastern part of the state, but gold has not been found in great quantities. Alum and silver are met with. There are many sulphureous springs in the eastern part of Tennessee. Salt springs are common, but of no great strength. Coal is abundant.
9. Climate.—The climate is delightful, being milder than in Kentucky, and free from the intense heat which prevails in the southern portion of the Mississippi valley. Snows of some depth are frequent in the winter, but the summers, especially in the higher regions, are mild. In these parts, the salubrity of the climate is thought to equal that of any part of the United States; but the low valleys, where stagnant waters abound, and the alluvions of the great rivers, are unhealthy.
10. Soil.—The soil in East Tennessee is remarkably
Exercises on the Map of Tennessee.—Extent of Tennessee? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? What part of the state is mountainous? Where does the Tennessee River cross the state? Which way does the Cumberland River flow? In which part of the state is Knoxville? Memphis? Capital of Tennessee?
LESSON LI. 1. Characteristics of Tennessee? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Curiosities? 6. Vegetable
[begin surface 443]fertile, containing great proportions of lime. In West Tennessee the soil is various, and the strata descend from the mountains in the following order: first, loamy soil, or mixtures of clay and sand; next, yellow clay; thirdly, a mixture of red sand and red clay; lastly white sand. In the southern parts are immense beds of oyster-shells, on high table-land, at a distance from any stream. The soil of the valleys and alluvions is extremely fertile.
11. Face of the Country.—Eastern Tennessee is mountainous, or hilly, and presents highly picturesque scenery. Toward the center of the state the surface softens imperceptibly into less bold outlines; and west of the Tennessee, it slopes down to the Mississippi.
12. Divisions.—Tennessee is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Tennessee with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total. The table is further divided into the following regions: Eastern Tennessee, Middle Tennessee, and Western Tennessee.
13. Agriculture.—Cotton is one of the chief articles of culture. Wheat, rye, oats, and maize are largely raised, and hemp and tobacco extensively cultivated. Much attention is given also to cattle and sheep farming.
14. Manufactures.—The manufactures of iron, hemp, cotton, tobacco, and cordage are considerable in amount, and there are some large establishments of these.
15. Commerce.—The exports of this state consist of tar, spirits of turpentine, rosin, lampblack, whisky, cotton bagging, flour, corn, cotton, grains, saltpeter, gunpowder, pork, live stock, etc. Tobacco is a leading article. Nashville and Memphis are the chief commercial towns.
16. Mining.—The iron and copper mines are wrought to a considerable extent. Saltpeter is found in the caves.
17. Railroads.—Tennessee has an extensive system of railroads, and these, with their exterior connections, unite the great centers of commerce, Memphis, Nashville, and Knoxville, with all parts of the Union.
18. Education.—In 1850 Tennessee had 2667 public schools, attended by 103,651 scholars; 260 academies, attended by 9517 pupils, and 17 colleges, attended by 1605 students. The principal colleges are the University at Nashville, the East Tennessee University at Knoxville, and the colleges at Washington, Columbia, Greenville, Lebanon, Murfreesboro', etc.
19. Chief Towns.—Nashville, in West Tennessee, is the largest town in the state, and the seat of government. It stands on the bank of the Cumberland River, in a pleasant situation, near high bluffs. The river is navigable for steamboats to this place, and many railroads diverge from it. Knoxville, the chief town of East Tennessee, is situated on the Holston, and has some manufactures. Murfreesboro', in West Tennessee, was formerly the seat of government for the state. Memphis has a fine situation on the site of old Fort Pickering, on the Mississippi, at a point where the great western road and several railroads strike the river. It is a modern settlement, but is a growing and important place, with a large commerce.
20. History.—Tennessee is the oldest of the Western states; the first settlements were made in the year 1754. The emigrants consisted of about fifty families from North Carolina, who established themselves where Nashville now stands; but being attacked by the Indians, they returned. In 1765 the first permanent settlements were made; these were in the eastern part. Nashville was founded as late as 1780. The settlers, previous to this, were greatly disturbed by the Indians, who were originally very numerous here. The earliest inhabitants were generally emigrants from North Carolina and Virginia. The country was included within the limits of North Carolina till 1790, when it was placed under the territorial government. In 1796, it was admitted into the Union as a state. The constitution was revised in 1834.
products? 7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Face of the country? 12. Divisions? 13. Agriculture? 14. Manufactures? 15. Commerce? 16. Mining? 17. Railroads? 18. Education? 19. Towns? 20. History?
1. Characteristics.—This state is noted for its fine climate, its remarkable caves, and its curious early history.
2. Mountains.—The Cumberland Mountains skirt the southeastern part of the state bordering upon Virginia.
3. Valleys.—The valleys of the small rivers in this state are beautiful and fertile.
4. Barrens.—Along the southern border is a tract improperly called the barrens, consisting of rounded, detached hills, wooded with oak, chestnut, elm, &c.
5. Rivers.—The Cumberland and Tennessee have a part of their course in this state, and the Ohio and Mississippi wash its borders. The Big Sandy rises in the Appalachian Mountains in Virginia, and flows into the Ohio, after a northwesterly course of about 250 miles, for fifty of which it is navigable for boats. Licking River has a course of 200 miles, and is navigable during the season of high water. The river Kentucky rises on the northwestern slope of the Cumberland Mountains, and has a rapid current, and a deep, rocky bed. Large steamboats go up to Frankfort, sixty miles. Green River flows through a country remarkable for its fertility and beautiful scenery, and has a course of upward of 200 miles, for most of which distance it is navigable for boats.
6. Curiosities.—This state, like Tennessee, abounds in extensive caverns. Mammoth Cave, near Green River, has been explored nearly ten miles. About twenty rooms have been discovered, and here are found subterranean streams, waterfalls, and pits of an unknown depth. Several of the rooms are of great extent, and have received appropriate names. The Haunted Chamber is two miles long, twenty feet high, and ten wide, the roof being supported by beautiful pillars. One apartment is assigned to the Evil Spirit, where he has a dining-table, forging-shop, &c. In one place, there is a considerable stream, in which there is a species of fish without eyes. It is necessary that a stranger who would explore this wonderful cavern should be attended by a guide familiar with the place. In this state are also many singular cavities, or depressions in the surface of the ground, An image of Mammoth Cave. Mammoth Cave called "sink-holes." They are commonly in the shape of inverted cones, sixty or seventy feet in depth, and from sixty to 300 feet in circumference, at the top. Their sides and bottoms are generally covered with willows and aquatic productions. The ear can often distinguish the sound of waters flowing under them, and it is believed that they are perforations in the bed of limestone below the soil, which have caused the earth above to sink. Sometimes the ground has been opened, and disclosed a subterraneous stream of water at the bottom of the cavities.
7. Mineral Springs.—There are numerous salt-springs, called licks by the inhabitants, from the circumstance that the earth about them has been licked out by the bison and deer. Near these localities, the gigantic bones of the mastodon have been found, which have rendered it probable that these places have long been the resort of wild animals. The Olympian Springs, fifty miles east of Lexington, and the Blue Licks, not far from Maysville, are sulphureous. The Harrodsburg Springs, in Mercer county, and the
Exercises on the Map of Kentucky.—Extent of Kentucky? Population? Population to the square mile? Boundaries? What river between Virginia and Kentucky? What between Kentucky and Ohio? Indiana and Illinois? Capital of Kentucky? Direction of the following places from Frankfort: Louisville; Hawesville; Lexington.
LESSON LII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Barrens? 5. Rivers? 6. Curiosities? 7. Mineral
[begin surface 445]Greenville Springs, in Muhlenburg, are saline waters. The former, in particular, are much resorted to. In the eastern counties there are burning springs, caused by currents of carbureted hydrogen gas issuing from the earth, and which take fire on the application of a light. Oil or petrolium springs are found in Allen county and other places. The petroleum, called Seneca oil, is used by the inhabitants, in the belief of its possessing rare medicinal virtues.
8. Vegetable Products.—The forest trees comprise the maple, beech, birch, poplar, hickory, various kinds of oak, ash, sycamore, pawpaw, buckeye, cherry, dogwood, elm, horn-beam, etc. There are few evergreens except the cypress. Several medicinal plants, such as ginseng, valerian, columbo, snake root, and blood-root, are indigenous. Hemp is well adapted to the soil.
9. Animals.—Bears, deer, wild turkeys, the opossum, raccoon, etc., are common in the wooded regions.
10. Minerals.—Salt and iron are the most important minerals. The most extensive salt-works west of the mountains are in Kentucky. Bituminous coal, limestone, marble, and nitrous earth, which yields large quantities of saltpeter, abound. Petrolium, or mineral oil, which ignites easily and burns brilliantly, has been found.
11. Climate.—The climate of this state does not differ materially from that of Tennessee. The air, however, is somewhat more moist. The winter begins late in December, and never lasts longer than three months.
12. Soil.—This state has a highly fertile and productive soil, although there are some sterile tracts. In the center of the state is a region of about 150 miles long by from 50 to 100 wide, which, from its richness, is called the Garden of the State. The barrens are by no means unproductive, but received that name because they were originally destitute of trees. The whole country rests upon a bed of limestone, from three to ten feet below the surface, which gives great vigor to the vegetation.
13. Face of the Country.—The surface has a general slope toward the northwest, together with a gradual declivity to the west. The elevation of the southeastern counties is about 1200 feet, while that of the western is not more than 350. The latter form an almost absolute level, which toward the center rises into rounded swells, presenting an agreeably diversified and undulating appearance. The eastern part is broken and mountainous.
14. Divisions.—Kentucky is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Kentucky with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, Slaves, and Total.
15. Agriculture.—Hemp, wheat, and tobacco are the staples of the state. The wheat is of the finest kind, and maize is raised in great abundance. All the grains and fruits of the temperate climates are treated with success.
16. Commerce.—An extensive trade is carried on, by way of the Ohio, in steamboats and river craft; partly up the river through the Ohio Canal and to Pittsburg, but chiefly with New Orleans. There is also an active overland trade with the Atlantic states. Flour, butter, cheese, beef, pork, maize, whisky, cider, hemp, and tobacco are the principal articles of export. Cattle, horses, and swine are also sent out of the state in great numbers—down the river, in flat-boats, or across the mountains.
springs? 8. Vegetable products? 9. Animals? 10. Minerals? 11. Climate? 12. Soil? 13. Face of the country? 14. Divisions?
[begin surface 446]is two miles and a half in length, and admits the passage of steamboats of the largest size. Most of it is cut through a solid rock of limestone. It overcomes a fall of twenty-four feet in the river. There are other important canals.
18. Railroads.—A fine system of railroads is planned for this state; but as yet only a small portion of their aggregate length has been built. With few exceptions they extend north and south between the towns on the Ohio river and the southern slates. The lines completed are the Louisville and Lexington Railroad, the Lexington and Frankford, the Covington and Lexington, the Maysville and Lexington, the Mobile and Ohio, and some others.
19. Manufactures.—Kentucky has become a considerable manufacturing state. Cotton and woolen goods, cordage, glass, and iron, are the principal articles.
20. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants are principally descended from the Virginians, who first settled the country. The courtesy and dignity of the Virginian, blent with the more dashing qualities of the hunter and woodsman, have formed in Kentucky a peculiar and agreeable style of manners. Frankness, bravery, enterprise, and hospitality are characteristic of the Kentuckian. The most favorable example of western manners is to be found here, and it is the more important, as it appears to be the standard from which western society copies its refinement.
21 Education.—In 1850 Kentucky had 2234 public schools, attended by 71,429 scholars; 330 academies, attended by 12,712 pupils; and 15 colleges, attended by 1873 students. Transylvania University, at Lexington, is one of the most important seminaries in the western states. Cumberland College, at Princeton, is patronized by the Cumberland Presbyterians; Center College, at Danville, by the Presbyterians; St. Joseph's, at Bardstown, by the Roman Catholics; Augusta College, at Augusta, by the Methodists; and Georgetown College, at Georgetown, by the Baptists.
22. Chief Towns.—The city of Louisville stands on the southern bank of the Ohio, about a quarter of a mile above the principal declivity of the falls. A stream called Beargrass Creek falls into the river above the town, and affords a harbor for the steamboats and river craft. The site of the city is a gently sloping plain. The principal streets run parallel with the Ohio, and command a fine view of the opposite shore. The main street is a mile in length, compactly built, and has many fine buildings. The town has considerable manufactures of cordage, bagging, &c., and a great commerce by way of the river. Lexington is the oldest town in the state, and was for many years the seat of government. It stands in a beautiful spot, in the center of the richest tract in the state. The principal street is a mile and a quarter in length, spacious, and well-paved. The buildings are much superior, in size and elegance, to those of the other towns in the state, and may compare with those of the Atlantic country. The Transylvania University is established here. The town has manufactories of woolen, cotton, cordage, paper, &c. The general appearance of the town is neat, and the neighborhood is adorned with many handsome villas, and finely ornamented rural mansions. Maysville, on the Ohio, a considerable distance above Louisville, opens a narrow bottom below the mouth of Limestone Creek, which affords a harbor for boats. It is a thriving town, and enjoys both the river and inland trade. It has manufactories of glass and other articles. Frankfort is the seat of government. It stands on the east bank of the Kentucky, sixty miles above its entrance into the Ohio, and occupies a deep valley. The state-house is built of rough marble, taken from quarries in the deep limestone banks of the river. Here is also the state penitentiary. A chain bridge crosses the river. Vessels designed for the sea have been built here, and floated down the river to New Orleans. Newport and Covington are two small towns on the Ohio, divided by Licking River. They are directly opposite Cincinnati, and may be considered as suburbs of that city. Newport has an arsenal of the United States. These towns exhibit a beautiful appearance from the hills north of Cincinnati. At Hawesville, on the Ohio, cannel coal is found in large quantities.
23. History.—This state was originally a part of Virginia, and was first settled by the celebrated Daniel Boone, and others, in 1769. In 1790 it was separated from Virginia, and admitted into the Union in 1792. The present constitution was adopted in 1799. It was revised in 1849.
24. Col. Boone.—The history of this individual deserves particular notice. Long after Virginia was settled, Kentucky remained unexplored, occupied, however, by numerous Indians, who found a kind of paradise amid its forests, filled with the bison, deer, bear, wild turkey, and other species of game. In 1769, Boone went with three other persons to visit this region. Two of his companions were killed, and the other returned, leaving him alone in the wilderness. After a time, he went back to his family, who lived on the banks of the Yadkin, in North Carolina. He was an eccentric man, and preferred the wild woods to meadows and wheat-fields. Accordingly, he determined to return to Kentucky; and in 1773, went there with fifty families beside his own, and forty men. These penetrated into the forests, and made the first settlement in Kentucky. Other settlers continued to arrive, and the population thus gradually increased. In 1775, Boone assisted in building a fort at a place which was called Boonesborough, and, when completed, he removed his family thither. Two years after, he sustained two formidable sieges from the Indians, whom he repulsed. In the following year, he was taken by the savages while hunting, and carried to Detroit. He escaped, and at last returned to his family. Again the fort was invested by Indians and Canadian Frenchmen, four hundred and fifty strong. Boone, with fifty men, held out, and finally the assailants withdrew. During the Revolutionary war the inhabitants were much distressed by the Indians, who took part with the British, and committed every species of cruelty upon the defenceless settlers. They were severely punished, however, in 1778, by Gen. Clarke, who marched against them with a body of soldiers, and laid their country waste. From this time they became less hostile, and the white people lived in greater security. After this, the settlements flourished. The fruitful soil, the mild climate, and beautiful rivers of this region drew people to it from all parts of the country. Col. Boone himself, deprived of his estate by a lawsuit, returned to his former hunting life. He spent much of his time alone in the woods, subsisting upon wild deer, which he killed with his rifle. He lived to a great age, and, when a gray-haired old man, was still attached to the mode of life which he had preferred in earlier days. He died within the state of Missouri, Sept., 1822.
15. Agriculture? 16. Commerce? 17. Canals? 18. Railroads? 19. Manufactures? 20. Inhabitants? 21. Education? 22. Chief towns? 23. History? 24. Col. Boone? What of his first visit to Kentucky?
141. Characteristics.—Ohio is the most populous and wealthy of the Western States.
2. Mountains.—There are no elevations in this state which bear the name of mountains.
3. Valleys.—There are numerous valleys along the rivers, which are very fertile.
4. Prairies.—There are many of these, though none of so great extent as those farther west. Between the Scioto and the two Miami rivers, there are some which are low and marshy, producing tall, coarse grass. In other parts, they are elevated and dry, with a fertile soil, though they often bear the local name of barrens.
5. Rivers.—The Ohio washes the southern border of the state, affording great advantages for navigation. The principal rivers flowing from this state into the Ohio basin are the Muskingum, the Scioto, and the Miami. The Muskingum rises in the northeastern part, and flows southerly into the Ohio. It is 200 miles in length, and is navigable for boats 100 miles. It is connected by a canal with Lake Erie. The Scioto rises in the central part, and flows southerly into the Ohio. It is about 200 miles in length, and is navigable 130 miles. There are rich and beautiful prairies on this river, and its valley is wide and fertile. The Great Miami rises in the western part, and flows southerly to the Ohio; it is about 100 miles in length, and has a strong, but smooth and unbroken current. The Little Miami flows nearly parallel to the former, into the Ohio. Both these streams water a pleasant, healthy, and fertile country. The rivers of the Erie basin have a shorter course, and are obstructed by falls and rapids. The Maumee rises in the northeastern part of Indiana, and flows through the northwestern part of this state, into Lake Erie, after a course of 220 miles; it is broad and deep, but has an obstruction, from shoals and rapids, thirty-three miles above its mouth. The Sandusky rises in the northern part, and flows northerly into Lake Erie; it is 100 miles in length, and is navigable for some distance. The Cuyahoga is a small stream in the northeast, falling into Lake Erie. The Ohio Canal passes along its valley to the lake.
6. Bays and Harbors.—This state has above 150 miles of coast upon Lake Erie. This extent embraces several harbors. Sandusky Bay, in the west, is twenty miles in length, and from three to four wide; it communicates with the lake by a narrow strait, and affords an excellent Map of Ohio. OHIO. Extent, 39,964 square miles. Admitted into the Union, 1802. First settled in 1788. Population, 1,980,329.—Pop. to the sq. m., 49.55. harbor. The harbor of Cleveland, at the outlet of the Ohio Canal, and that of Ashtabula, farther east, are frequented by steamboats and other lake craft.
7. Mineral Springs.—The Yellow Springs, in Green county, sixty-four miles north of Cincinnati, have been used with advantage in cases of chronic disease. The waters are chalybeate, and have a temperature of 52°. The Delaware White Sulphur Springs are similar to the sulphur springs of Virginia.
8. Vegetable Products.—The forests produce black-walnut, various species of oaks, hickory, sugar-maple, and several other sorts of maple, beech, birch, poplar, ash, sycamore, pawpaw, buckeye, cherry, dogwood, elm, horn-beam, &c. With the exception of a few cypress-trees, this state produces hardly any evergreens. Many sorts of medicinal roots are to be found here, as ginseng, valerian, columbo, snakeroot, and bloodroot.
9. Animals.—The larger wild animals are considerably
Exercises on the Map of Ohio.—Extent of Ohio? Boundaries? Population? Population to the square mile? What river separates Ohio from Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Kentucky? What river in the northwest part of the state? What two rivers in the southwest? Describe the Scioto; Muskingum; Cuyahoga. Capital of Ohio? Direction to the following places from Columbia: Cincinnati; Marietta; Dayton; Steubenville; Cleveland?
LESSON LIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Prairies? 5. Rivers? 6. Bays and Harbors? 7. Mineral springs? 8. Vegetable products? 9. Animals? 10. Minerals?
STATISTICS OF OHIO.—The population of the Pork State is 2,300,000. In addition to an abundance of valuable timber, one-third of the whole State of Ohio is underlaid with bituminous coal, forming the best and cheapest fuel, while her iron ore is equal in quantity and quality to that of Great Britain. The value of her agricultural productions, according to the data based on the census of 1855, is $196,900,000. The value of exports in Ohio exceeds the value of exports in New York, as to agriculture and mining, by thirty one millions of dollars. Ohio is worth one thousand millions of dollars, three-fourths of which have been made out of the profits of labor supplied to agriculture, mining, and manufactures.
[begin surface 450]reduced by the large population of the state. The bear, deer, and cougar are occasionally found in secluded spots. Wild turkeys and the smaller quadrupeds are still abundant. The cat-fish, which often weighs fifty pounds, and is common in the rivers of the West, is found also in the Ohio. The white-fish, one of the peculiar products of the Great Lakes, is sometimes taken in Lake Erie.
10. Minerals.—The four most important of all mineral productions—coal, salt, limestone, and iron—abound. Iron and coal are found chiefly in the northeastern part of the state. Marble and freestone, well adapted for architectural purposes, and gypsum, occur. The salt springs are numerous, and the brine is strong.
11. Climate.—On account of the general elevation of the surface, which is from 700 or 800 to upward of 1000 feet above the level of the sea, the general temperature is several degrees lower than in the Atlantic regions in the same parallel. The winters are often severe, and the Ohio has been frozen, at Cincinnati, for two months. The summer is subject to tornadoes, but the autumn is always temperate, serene, and pleasant. Along the valley of the Ohio the weather is more equable and mild than in the interior. In the southern part there is little snow; in the north, the snows are deep, and there is much sleighing in winter. Near marshy spots and stagnant waters, fevers and agues prevail, especially among the new settlers; but in general, the state may be pronounced healthy.
12. Soil.—Nine-tenths of the surface of this state are susceptible of cultivation. The intervals of the rivers are highly fertile. In the interior are the largest tracts of rich level plain to be found in any settled portion of the United States. The prairies produce no timber except a few scattered trees, and now and then a small grove. Some of them are marshy, and the more elevated are called barrens, yet they have often a tolerably fertile soil. The eastern and southeastern parts are the most hilly; but hardly any portion of the surface is sufficiently broken to be unfavorable to tillage. The marshy tracts in the north have an excellent soil, and may be easily drained.
13. Face of the Country.—The central portion of the state is a table-land of considerable elevation, from which the surface slopes to the Erie basin on the north, and the Ohio on the south. The northern or Erie plain has a more rapid declivity than the southern slope, and the rivers which flow down its surface are much broken by falls, which are more rare on the Ohio side. The surface in general is undulating and agreeably diversified.
14. Divisions.—Ohio is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Ohio with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
15. Agriculture.—The soil and climate are in a high degree suitable to the growth of tobacco, hemp, and flax; maize is raised in great quantities, and grows abundantly in all parts of the state. The other bread grains are produced of excellent quality, and fruits of all kinds are raised in profusion. The bread grains, live stock, and salted provisions are the staples of the state. The number of hogs sent to market is immense.
16. Manufactures.—The domestic fabrics are considerable, and there are large manufactories of woolen, cotton, paper, glass, etc. The manufacture of steam machinery, and other articles from iron, is extensive. To these may be added linseed and castor-oil, whisky, cabinet furniture, salt, etc.
17. Commerce.—The advantages for trade, which are secured by the local position of this state, may be perceived by glancing at the map. The Ohio affords it a direct intercourse with all the country in the valley of the Mississippi; while by means of Lake Erie on the north, it communicates with Canada and New York. The canals
11. Climate? 12. Soil? 13. Face of the Country? 14. Divisions? 15. Agriculture? 16. Manufactures? 17. Commerce
[begin surface 452]and railroads complete a line of internal communication from New York to New Orleans through this state. Ohio enjoys the most active commerce of all the Western States.
18. Mining.—Coal and iron are abundant, and so near the surface as hardly to require the process of mining.
19. Canals.—The Ohio and Erie and the Miami canals have been constructed by the state. The former begins at Cleveland, and terminates at Portsmouth on the Ohio; length, including several navigable feeders, 334 miles. The Miami Canal, beginning at Cincinnati, runs north to Toledo, about 250 miles. There are other important canals.
20. Railroads.—Magnificent railroads cross and recross the state in every direction, furnishing rapid and easy communication, and connecting on every side with the great exterior lines of travel.
21. Inhabitants.—The settlers of this state were mainly from New England, and society is here of a somewhat New England character. There is, however, a large foreign population, principally in the cities.
22. Education.—Education is liberally provided for. In 1850 Ohio had 11,661 primary and public schools, attended by 484,153 scholars; 206 academies, attended by 15,052 pupils; and 26 colleges and universities, attended by 3,621 students. The Ohio University, at Athens, was founded in 1804; the Miami University, at Oxford, in 1809; the Ohio Wesleyan University, at Delaware, in 1844; and the Cleveland University, in 1852. The principal colleges are—Franklin at New Athens, the Western Reserve at Hudson, Kenyon at Gambier, Granville at Granville, Oberlin at Oberlin, Marietta at Marietta, St. Xavier at Cincinnati, and Wittenburg at Springfield. Theological and medical departments are attached to the universities and principal colleges; and there are a number of separate medical and divinity schools.
View of Cincinnati. An image of boats with the city of Cincinnati in the background, and men with a pile of timber in the foreground.23. Chief Towns.—The city of Cincinnati is the principal town in the state, and, in point of population and business, second only to New Orleans among the western cities. It is situated on the north bank of the Ohio, 500 miles west of Washington. It it regularly laid out with broad, straight streets, intersecting each other at right angles, and is, in general, well built. The growth of this city has, perhaps, never been surpassed in rapidity. Its commerce and manufactures are extensive and increasing. Numerous steamboats have been built at Cincinnati; and river and canal craft crowd its waters. Its trade is very extensive. The schools are numerous and respectable, and considerable printing is done here. Fulton, a suburb of Cincinnati, is a large manufacturing village. Columbus, the seat of government, is in the center of the state, on the eastern bank of the Scioto. Steubenville is finely situated in the eastern part of the state. Lower down the river is Marietta, in a delightful country. Portsmouth stands above the junction of the Ohio and Scioto, and has acquired importance from its position at the termination of the Ohio Canal. In the north, on Lake Erie, Cleveland, Sandusky, and Toledo are important places. Chilicothe, on the Scioto, is a flourishing manufacturing town. Circleville, between Columbus and Chilicothe, derives its name from the numerous remains of ancient works, in a circular form, which occupied its site. Dayton, at which center numerous railroads, has large manufactures.
24. History.—The territory belonging to Ohio, including that of Indiana, was claimed by Virginia as embraced in her original patent. The northwestern portion, along Lake Erie, containing what was called the Western Reserve, was claimed by Connecticut. Virginia ceded her territory to the United States in 1787, reserving a small portion for the payment of some state debts. The Connecticut claims were finally extinguished in 1800. The French preferred a title to this whole territory, but they made no permanent settlements in Ohio. The country remained in the possession of the Indians till April 7, 1788, when General Rufus Putnam, with a party from New England, planted a little colony at the mouth of the Muskingum, where Marietta now stands. Another settlement was made the following year, at Columbia, six miles above the present city of Cincinnati. Some French emigrants established themselves at Gallipolis in 1791. Settlements were made at Cleveland and Conneaut in 1796, by emigrants from New England. The country was much disturbed by Indian hostilities. After the disastrous campaign of General Harmar, in 1790, and that of General St. Clair in 1791—he being finally defeated, with great loss, in the western part of the state—many of the affrighted inhabitants removed to Kentucky. But in 1795, the savages were effectually subdued by General Wayne, and from this time we may date the unexampled prosperity of the state. In 1781, Ohio, together with Indiana, etc., was placed under a territorial government by Congress; the whole being called the Territory Northwest of the Ohio. The first territorial legislature met at Cincinnati, in 1799. For a long period the fame of this region for richness of soil and amenity of climate drew multitudes of adventurers from the Atlantic country. In 1802, Ohio was erected into a state and admitted into the Union. In 1816, the crops of New England were cut off, and the most extraordinary impulse was given to emigration. Not only families, but whole villages departed for this land of promise. The great thoroughfares to the west were crowded with troops of people, loaded with their entire stock of furniture. Thus a state but sixty years old has grown up with a population of two millions, and a metropolis of 115,000 inhabitants. Here, also, are the marks of civilization and refinement—canals, railroads, telegraphs, schools, colleges, public libraries, lyceums, churches, and the printing-press!
25. Antiquities.—When this state was first visited, numerous artificial mounds, and other works appearing like fortifications, were discovered where Marietta, Chilicothe, Circleville, and Newark now stand. Most of these are destroyed. Similar works have been discovered in the more western states, in western New York, and Wisconsin. They existed before the present race of Indians.
18. Mining? 19. Canals? 20. Railroads? 21. Inhabitants? 22. Education? 23. Chief Towns? 24. History? 25. Antiquities?
1. Characteristics.—This is the smallest of the Western States, but it is noted for its excellent soil and fine climate.
2. Mountains.—Indiana is destitute of these.
3. Prairies.—These are not very extensive, but they are numerous and fertile.
4. Rivers.—The Ohio washes the southern limit of the state. The Wabash rises in the northeastern part, and flows southwest nearly across the state, when it turns to the south, and flows into the Ohio, forming, toward its mouth, the western boundary. It is 500 miles in length, and is navigable for steamboats 300 miles. Above this point, small boats may ascend to the source of the river. White River, 260 miles in length, and Tippecanoe River, are branches of the Wabash. Steamboats ascend the White River to Indianapolis. The Tippecanoe is celebrated for a battle fought upon its banks in 1814, between the United States troops and the Indians. White Water River, in the eastern part of the state, flows southerly to the Great Miami, a few miles above its mouth. Its waters are remarkably cold and transparent.
5. Caves.—There are great numbers of caves in this state, most of which have been little explored. On the bank of Big Blue River, a small stream falling into the Ohio, is the Epsom Salt Cave. This contains saltpeter, aluminous earth, and gypsum. About a mile and a half within the cave is a white column, thirty feet high, fluted from top to bottom, and surrounded by smaller columns of the same shape and appearance. The floor of the cave is covered with Epsom salt, sometimes in lumps of ten pounds weight.
6. Vegetable Products.—The forests of Indiana are greatly varied, and of magnificent growth. The flowering shrubs impart a peculiar charm to the country in early spring. Indian corn attains the hight of nine feet.
7. Animals.—The bear, deer, wild-cat, cougar, wild turkey, grouse, and smaller quadrupeds are common.
8. Minerals.—Iron, native copper, and coal have been found in this state, and there are also salt springs in some parts, yet the mineral productions are, on the whole, inconsiderable.
9. Climate.—On the borders of Lake Michigan, heavy rains are common, and the climate is considered unhealthy. Map of Illinois and Indiana. Extent of Indiana, 33,809 sq. m.—Pop. in 1850, 988,416.—Pop. to sq. m., 29.23. Illinois was admitted into the Union in 1818. Indiana was admitted into the Union in 1816. Extent of Illinois, 55,409 sq. m.—Pop. in 1850, 851,470.—Pop. to sq. m., 15.36, In the other parts it does not differ from that of Ohio. In the middle and southern parts there is seldom more than six inches depth of snow, but in the north there is sometimes a foot and a half. Peach-trees blossom early in March. The forests are in leaf early in April. There are vast quantities of flowering shrubs which put forth their blossoms before they are in leaf, and give an indescribable charm to the early spring. Frosts often do great injury to the vegetation, both in spring and autumn. The winter seldom continues longer than six weeks.
10. Soil.—This state is generally level and fertile. All the rivers have uncommonly wide, alluvial borders. The prairies along the Wabash are celebrated for their richness and beauty. Many of the prairies and intervals are too rich for wheat. In the northern part are swampy tracts, which are too wet for cultivation; but in general, a better country could hardly be desired for all the purposes of agriculture.
11. Face of the Country.—The northern part of the state is an elevated table-land, which is level and wet, and gives rise to rivers flowing into lakes Michigan and Erie, and the rivers Ohio and Mississippi. A great part of the surface is rolling, and agreeably diversified with hill and valley. The prairies form a striking feature in the face of the country.
Exercises on the Map of Indiana.—Extent of Indiana? Boundaries? Population? Population to the square mile? What river bounds Indiana on the south? Which way does the Wabash run? Where does it empty? What lake at the northwest corner of Indiana? Capital of Indiana?
LESSON LIV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Prairies?
[begin surface 454]12. Divisions.—Indiana is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Indiana with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
13. Agriculture.—The articles of culture are similar to those of Ohio. The vineyards at Vevay are nourishing and profitable. The Cape or blue grape, and the Madeira grape, have been principally cultivated. Recently, the American grapes have grown into esteem: they are thought to produce better wine, and to be more easy of culture.
14. Manufactures.—These are rapidly growing up in variety and importance. Machinery is largely manufactured, and there are many other large interests in operation.
15. Commerce.—The exports are chiefly agricultural products; and the imports, groceries, dry-goods, and other merchandise.
16. Canals and Railroads.—These have been undertaken on a large scale, and numerous useful and important works of the kind are in operation.
17. Education.—In 1850 Indiana had 4822 public schools, attended by 161,500 scholars; 131 academies, attended by 6185 pupils, and 11 colleges, attended by 1069 students. The principal collegiate institutions are the State University at Bloomington, the Indiana Ashbury University at Greencastle, the Hanover College at Hanover, the Wabash College at Crawfordsville, and there are several professional schools in the state.
18. Chief Towns.—Indianapolis, in the center of the state, on the White River, is the seat of government. Vincennes is an old French town, and is pleasantly situated in a delightful region, 150 miles from the mouth of the Wabash. New Albany, just below Louisville, is the largest town in the state, and has already become an important commercial and manufacturing place. Madison ranks third in population. Vevay, chiefly settled by Swiss, who have extensive vineyards; and New Harmony, founded by a German society, who held their property in common. In 1824, it was bought by Robert Owen, of Lanark, Scotland, who wished to introduce into practice here his new principles of the social system—perfect equality, and the abolition of the obligations of marriage. His scheme failed, and his followers were dispersed; but the village is now a flourishing place. Fort Wayne, on the Maumee, Lafayette and Logansport, on the upper part of the Wabash, and Lawrenceburg, on the Ohio, are thriving towns.
19. History—Annals.—This territory, as well as that of Illinois, was explored by Marquette, the French traveler, in 1673, and was therefore claimed by France. It was subsequently claimed also by Virginia, and was included in her deed of cession to the United States, in 1787. It continued unoccupied till the early part of the seventeenth century, when the French, in pursuance of their plan for extending settlements southward to the Lower Mississippi, made settlements there. The first was at Vincennes, in 1730. At the peace between England and France, in 1763, this country came into the possession of the English, who however made no attempt to settle it for a long period. During the Revolutionary war, the people of Vincennes took part with the Americans, in consequence of which, after the struggle, our government made them a grant of land in the vicinity.
20. Indian Wars, etc.—In 1787, the United Stales took possession of Vincennes, and erected a fort on the opposite bank of the river, as a defense against the savages, who were now formidable from their numbers, and dangerous from their hostility. At this period, the inhabitants
4. Rivers? 5. Caves? 6. Vegetable products? 7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Face of the country? 12. Divisions? 13. Agriculture?14. Manufactures? 15. Commerce? 16. Canals and railroads? 17. Education?
in this quarter consisted of French Canadians and Indians. The whole country, including Ohio, soon became involved in war with the Indians. Gen. Harmer was defeated in two battles, 1790, in the northeastern part of Indiana. Gen. St. Clair, governor of the Northwestern Territory, including Ohio, Indiana, &c., was defeated by the Indians, with great slaughter, in 1791, at Fort Washington, the site of the present city of Cincinnati. Gen. Wayne was appointed to the command of our army, and in August, 1794, at the head of 3000 men, gave the Indians a fatal defeat at the Maumee Rapids. This brought temporary peace to the country. In 1800, Indiana was placed under a territorial government, including Illinois. In 1809, it became a separate territory. The celebrated chief, Tecumseh, now began to figure in the history of this quarter. He was of the Shawnee tribe, and born on the Scioto, in Ohio; took part in the conflicts which preceded the defeat of the Indians by Wayne, and finally became the master-spirit of the Indians throughout the Northwestern Territory. Assisted by his brother, who had acquired the title of the Prophet, he formed extensive schemes of hostility against the Americans. Both these Indians made visits to distant tribes, with a view to league them in a great struggle with those whom they deemed their enemy. When Tecumseh was absent, the savages, instigated by the British, who had settlements in this quarter, committed various acts of hostility upon our northwestern frontier villages. The United States accordingly dispatched an armed force against them, they being now under the command of the Prophet. In November, 1811, the troops marched into the Indian country, and encamped near the Prophet's town, at Tippecanoe, where the savages had collected an army of 600 warriors. Gen. Harrison, the American commander, proposed a negotiation; the Indians accepted it with every protestation of friendship, and agreed to hold a council next day. The Prophet, at night, consulted his "grand medicine," and declared to his followers that "the enemy was now in their power, fast asleep, and should never wake." Before the dawn of day, the Indians burst into the American camp with horrid shouts; and a fierce engagement succeeded, amid the confusion of darkness, and the yells of the war-whoop. The militia fled, but were soon rallied. The troops formed a solid column, and charged the savages at the point of the bayonet. They were soon driven from the field, and completely routed, but nearly 200 Americans fell in the battle. The Prophet's town was then set on fire and destroyed. This severe blow arrested their incursions and depredations for a time, but during the war with England, which began in 1812, they proved very troublesome. The restless and talented Tecumseh finally fell in the battle of the Thames, in Canada, October, 1813, displaying in his last action a degree of courage and sagacity beyond that of the British commander, whose ally he was. He was the most able, if not the most successful, military chief of all the northern tribes. In his person he was tall and muscular, with a dignified carriage, and a piercing eye. The Prophet, after the war, received a pension from the British government, and finally migrated to the Far West. He was a man of great talent, and, like his brother, possessed, in a high degree, the native eloquence of his race. Indiana became a state in 1816, since which its advance in population and importance has been very rapid. It entered upon extensive schemes of canals and railroads, which were arrested by the panic of 1837–40, and brought the finances of the state into great derangement. This, however, is likely to form but a temporary check.
1. Characteristics.—This is a new state, with a good soil, an increasing population, and rich mines.
2. Mountains are unknown in Illinois, though the southern and northern parts are hilly and broken.
3. Valleys and Prairies.—There are few valleys in this state, the banks of the rivers frequently consisting of lofty bluffs, presenting sublime and picturesque scenery. Between these precipitous banks and the streams, there are sometimes narrow vales of inexhaustible fertility. The prairies are frequent, and of great extent, being covered with tall grass, and at wide intervals dotted with woodlands.
4. Rivers.—Illinois is highly favored in respect to navigable rivers, which afford a boat navigation of above 3000 miles. The Wabash, Ohio, and Mississippi wash the borders of the state. The rivers which have their course within its limits mostly flow with a southwesterly course
18. Chief towns? 19. Annals? 20. Indian wars? Battle of Tippecanoe?
Exercises on the Map of Illinois (see page 109).—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What part of the state touches Lake Michigan? Capital? Describe the following rivers: Rock; Illinois; Kaskaskia. Direction of the following places from Springfield: Alton; Chicago; Galena; Peoria; Quincy; Vandalia; Kaskaskia.
[begin surface 456]into the Mississippi. Rock River rises in Michigan, to the west of the lake, but flows into the Mississippi, in Illinois, after a course of nearly 300 miles. The Illinois, the chief river of the state, is formed by the junction of several head streams, rising in Michigan, to the west, and in Indiana, to the south, of Lake Michigan. At seasons of high water, there is an uninterrupted navigation from one of these streams, the Plain River, to the Chicago, which runs into the lake. The current of the Illinois is, in general, gentle, with a wide and deep bed, in some places opening into broad and lake-like expanses, and affording great advantages for navigation. The length of its course is about 500 miles. Steamboats ascend to Peoria, 160 miles, and, in certain stages of the water, to the rapids, 230 miles. The Kaskaskia rises in the eastern part of the state, and pursues a direction nearly parallel to that of the Illinois and Rock. It is 250 miles in length, and is navigable for boats. The Cahokia and Muddy rivers flow into the Mississippi. The Little Wabash is one of the tributaries of the Wabash.
5. Shores and Harbors.—At the northeast corner, this state touches upon Lake Michigan. At the mouth of Chicago River is Chicago, which has a tolerable harbor, improved by piers extending into the lake.
6. Mineral Springs.—There are sulphureous and chalybeate springs in different parts of the state. There are also salt springs in several places, and especially near Shawneetown.
7. Vegetable Products.—The native forests are thick and lofty, comprising the oak, walnut, ash, elm, sugar- maple, locust, blackberry, buckeye, sycamore, and white pine. These forests exist chiefly in the south.
8. Animals.—The deer, elk, bear, panther, wild-cat, and smaller quadrupeds abound. The hogs, in a half-wild state, are numerous here, as well as in Ohio and Indiana. The wild turkey, grouse, &c., are common. Lead Miners.
9. Minerals.—Besides iron, coal, limestone, and salt, Illinois contains the richest lead mines in the world. They lie in the northwestern part of the state, and the ore is inexhaustible. The mines of Galena, and the vicinity, on Fever River, have yielded upward of thirty million pounds in a single year. Silver is found intermixed with the lead ores.
10. Climate.—The winters are rather severe over the whole state. The rivers are frozen for several months, and the winds from the northerly points, coming from the lakes, or from the great central table-land of North America, are very cold. The air is, in general, dry, pure, and healthy.
11. Soil.—Three different qualities of soil may be distinguished in a general description. First, the alluvial borders of the rivers, which are from one to eight miles wide, sometimes elevated, and at others low, and subject to inundation. These consist of alternations of wood and prairie, and have almost always a fertile soil. Second, between the alluvions and the bluffs which bound them are level tracts, from fifty to 100 feet high. These consist mostly of prairie, either dry or marshy, and are less fertile than the alluvions. Third, the interior, which consists of an intermixture of woods and prairies. Here the soil is various, and the surface waving. One-sixth of the alluvial land is overflowed by the rivers, and rendered unfit for cultivation, although it is productive in timber. A tract called the American Bottom, beginning at the mouth of the Kaskaskia, and extending along the Mississippi, ninety miles in length, and five in average width, consists of soil twenty-five feet deep, as rich as can be found in the world. About the French settlements, it has been cultivated, and has produced maize every year, without manuring, for above a century.
12. Face of the Country.—The surface forms an inclined plane, sloping downward from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi, in a southwesterly direction. There are no elevations much above the general level, and the greater part of the country consists of vast plains, with a gently undulating or waving surface.
13. Divisions.—Illinois is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Illinois with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
LESSON LV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys and prairies? 4. Rivers? 5. Shores and harbors? 6. Mineral springs? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions?
Madison, the capital of Wisconsin, is one of the great cities of the West, with unrivaled beauty of location and scenery to gratify men of taste and leisure. Its unsurpassed railroad and other business facilities offer strong inducements to capitalists, manufacturers, merchants, and mechanics.
The city is now erecting a spacious city-hall, four first-class school-houses, and other public buildings.
[begin surface 459]The State Legislature, at its last session, made a large appropriation for the enlargement of the State House, the erection of a State Lunatic Asylum, and to complete the State University Buildings on the magnificent plan heretofore adopted. Congress has made an appropriation for the erection of a United States Court-House and Post-Office; and made the latter a distributing office.
RAILROADS.—Four separate railroads will be completed to this place the coming year, and will erect expensive buildings for their convenience and business.
LOCAL IMPROVEMENTS.—In addition to all these, there are now being erected churches, stores, private residences, etc., most of which are built of the beautiful cream-colored stone from the Madison quarries.
These improvements will give employment to hundreds of mechanics and laborers, at a point where they will find a healthy location for a home, educational, and other advantages unsurpassed.
Not a competing city to limit its growth for forty miles in any direction, and in the center of the most fertile country in the Union, which is being rapidly developed.—Wisconsin Journal.
[begin surface 461][cutaway]ITS CAPITAL.—The people of [cutaway]"Badger State" observe with pride and satisfaction their [cutaway]iful Capital awakening to a sense of the great advantages [cutaway]th which it is endowed by nature, and to the activities of a [cutaway]season. The Legislature, just adjourned, has appropriated [cutaway]00,000 for the present year to the enlargement of the Capitol building, has authorized the Regents of the University to erect their main edifice at a cost of $40,000; Congress has just appropriated $50,000 to build a United States Court-House and Post Office (making this a distribution office), and the completion of the churches, model school buildings, new City Hall, &c., with the cost of depots and railroads in the immediate vicinity, will bring up the outlay for public purposes in the year 1857 very nearly to $1,000,000.
Already the sound of the builder's hammer is heard, workmen are in great demand, the city avenues are lined with heavily loaded teams, bringing in materials for construction, or the rich produce of its agricultural surroundings. The stranger, walking the paved and gas-lighted streets of Madison, learns with astonishment that twenty years ago the first pioneer's cabin was built in these openings, and wonders if the thousands who will this Spring be seeking a new home from which they can overlook the field of their children's future activities—which shall combine present business advantages with the religious, educational and social privileges they are reluctant to leave—are aware of the rank this place must inevitably take among the prosperous and beautiful cities of the West.
Travelers have borne abundant testimony to its exceeding beauty of situation, the varied delights it offers to the lovers of nature and out-door amusements, its excellent hotels, and such matters of interest as are revealed at a passing glance; invalids have gratefully witnessed to the salubrity of the "Four Lake Region," pure, dry atmosphere and equal temperature; but few are aware now much it offers to the seeker of a permanent home, to Farmers, Capitalists, Merchants, Manufacturers, Mechanics and Artisans of all kinds; to Professional men, Politicians, men with families to educate, and to those who would return from active life to watch the progress of the age in the quietude of a rural residence.
Madison has its Female Seminary, Academy, Mercantile College, and State University, the latter amply endowed with an annual income of nearly $30,000, derived from interest upon invested funds, and offering a thorough education in Literature, Theoretical and Applied Science, free of cost.
Nearly every denomination of Christians are here represented in an able Ministry and flourishing Church. It supports three daily, six weekly, and two monthly Papers and Magazines, provides through its Institute for Popular Lectures; and, last, but not least, it is the seat of the Historical Society and all the principal Libraries of the State.
All the comforts of life are abundant and cheap, nature having supplied a healthful, bracing air, the purest water and ice, and an inexhaustible supply of the finest building stone, and the different railroads conveying to it the produce of a rich country, and the various luxuries of the world.
Its elevated position and diversified surface give the freest possible scope for the development of individual taste in architecture and landscape-gardening, for rural homes, with incomparable views of lake, woodland and prairie, within easy distances of the centers of business and trade, while the remoter environs afford delightful localities for small market-farms and gardens, the products of which will always command remunerative prices in town.
The rapid growth and great future prosperity of Madison is certain. Situated half way between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi, the converging point of four great lines of railroad, the "Milwaukee and Mississippi," "Milwaukee, Watertown and Madison," East and West, connecting the Lakes with the Mississippi River; the La Crosse and Land Grant Roads running from Madison to Lake St. Croix and Lake Superior, Northward and Westward. Of twenty-five different wagon roads, of seventeen mall and stage routes, there is no point in the State so readily accessible, while by Telegraph it is in hourly connection with all parts of the Union and Canada. The completion of the Watertown and Madison Railroad will bring near the great timbered regions of the State. Iron from Dodge County, coal from Ohio and Illinois, can then be afforded at a reduction from the present prices of from thirty to fifty per cent.
Already the most populous city in the West, these rapidly accumulating sources of prosperity must inevitable develop in it an immense amount of mechanical, manufacturing and business enterprise. During the next two or three years the increase of warehouses, machine shops, depots, &c., must become very extensive. No point of competition exists within eighty miles, and the country of which it is the geographical center, nearly as large as Rhode Island, contains 850,000 acress of arable land (equal to the support of half a million souls), which is not held by spectators, but by residents, who are willing to sell on easy terms to actual settlers.
Madison affords great advantages to capitalists, the laws allowing 12 per cent as legal interest, and constant opportunities occurring for loaning money on good security, at large profits, to mechanics, manufacturers and agriculturists, who are safely and prosperously engaged in developing and increasing the resources of the West. Also to persons desiring correct information respecting investments in School or Government Lands in Wisconsin, Minnesota or Iowa, or in Railroads, Bank Stocks, Mortgages, &c., in City, County or State. Great inducements are offered to farmers in the excellence and cheapness of the neighboring lands, and the certainty of a ready profitable market.
Madison has hitherto doubled its population, upon an average once in two and a half years, and even allowing its future growth [covered]o be at a slower rate it will amount to 20,000 in 1860, and to [covered]etween 30,000 and 40,000 in 1885. The county seat of Dan County the capital of Wisconsin, unrivalled for beauty of sit[cutaway]es in busi[cutaway]rprise, soci[cutaway]
[begin surface 463]14. Agriculture.—The chief agricultural productions are maize, wheat, potatoes, hemp, flax, and tobacco. The cultivation of the castor-oil bean has been introduced, and considerable quantities of oil are made. Thousands of swine are raised without expense. The system of agriculture is, in general, rather rude and unskilful.
15. Manufactures.—There are numerous iron foundries, several cotton manufactories, and numerous steam flour and saw-mills. Large quantities of flour are made and exported. The domestic manufactures are considerable, and manufactures, generally, are increasing. The manufacture of railroad cars is carried on in Chicago.
16. Commerce.—Chicago, on Lake Michigan; Alton, on the Mississippi; and Galena, on Fever River, are the chief commercial places. The first is the most flourishing port west of Buffalo. Other places on the rivers and Illinois Canal have also considerable commerce; and the internal trade of the state is extensive.
17. Lumbering.—This is carried on to some extent upon the lake, and on the rivers.
18. Mining.—The operations in mining for lead are very extensive, especially at Galena and the vicinity.
19. Canals and Railroads.—This state has an extensive system of railroads, crossing and re-crossing, and connecting with the lines of the neighboring states. A canal connects Chicago and Peru, and furnishes, by way of the Illinois River, communication with the Mississippi.
20. Inhabitants.—This state has been mostly settled by emigrants from the other states, though many persons from Ireland, Germany, and other parts of the continent, have more recently established themselves here.
21. Education.—In 1850 Illinois had 4050 public schools, with 4252 teachers, and 125,790 scholars; 81 academies and other schools, with 154 teachers, and 4179 pupils; and 6 colleges, with 35 teachers and 442 students. Illinois College, at Jacksonville, was founded in 1829. Chicago, Alton, Lebanon, and Galesbury are also the seats of colleges.
22. Chief Towns.—There is but one large town in this new but growing state. Springfield is the capital. Kaskaskia, on the river of the same name, is an old French town. While the French held possession of the country, it was populous, and the seat of government, and contained a college of Jesuits. After the war of the Revolution it declined, but lately it has begun to revive. Cahokia is another ancient French settlement on the Mississippi. It is nearly as old as Kaskaskia. Belleville, in the same neighborhood, is a new and flourishing town. Shawneetown, on the Ohio, is the largest place in the state, upon the river. Galena, in the northwest, on Fever River, is the center of the lead district. Alton, on the Mississippi, and Chicago, on Lake Michigan, are favorably situated for trade. The latter is an important place. It extends along the lake shore for a mile, being sufficiently elevated to escape ordinary floods. It has an artificial harbor, which is thronged with steamboats and other vessels.
23. History.—This country was explored by Marquette, in 1673. In 1720, the French, from Canada, made settlements at Kaskaskia and Cahokia, where their descendants are still found, though these establishments did not become politically important. At the treaty of Paris, in 1763, this country came into the possession of Great Britain. This state formed a part of the region which, in 1789, was placed under a territorial government, with the title of the Western Territory. In 1800, that part comprising Indiana and Illinois was made a distinct territory. In 1809, Illinois was made a separate territory, and in 1818 it was admitted into the Union as an independent state.
24. Indian War.—In 1832, the frontiers of the United States experienced the ravages of an Indian war, in which Black Hawk, a warrior of the Sacs and Foxes, was leader. It commenced in a dispute about a hive of wild bees, but soon spread terror among the settlers for hundreds of miles. The savages assembled their warriors, and the governor of Illinois called out a brigade of militia, which joined the American forces under Gen. Atkinson, amounting, in all, to 3000 men. Meanwhile, the Indians ravaged the mining districts of Michigan, and defeated some small bodies of American troops. Finding the American army advancing upon him, Black Hawk retreated toward the Mississippi. At last, in July, 1832, he was attacked by an advanced guard of the Americans, as he was about to cross the Wisconsin, forty miles from Fort Winnebago, and his army totally defeated. He escaped, but, after a time, he gave himself up. He was kindly treated, and was taken to Washington, where he had an interview with President Jackson, April, 1833. In 1837, he again visited the Atlantic states, in company with the celebrated Keokuk, Red Jacket, and other chiefs. They were received with ceremony at New York, Boston, and other places, and seemed amazed at the power of the whites. From this time, Black Hawk was friendly to the whites, and died at his residence on the Des Moines, October 3, 1838.
14. Agriculture? 15. Manufactures? 16. Commerce? 17. Lumbering? 18. Mining? 19. Canals and railroads? 20. Inhabitants? 21. Education? 22. Chief towns? 23. History? When was Illinois admitted into the Union? 24. Indian War?
151. Characteristics.—This state is situated in the center of the Great Lakes, and possesses great advantages for trade.
2. Mountains.—The southern peninsula of Michigan has no mountains, but an elevated table-land, about 300 feet above the level of the lakes, runs through the center. The northern peninsula is more hilly, and the western part is covered by the ridges of the Wisconsin or Porcupine Mountains, which rise 2000 feet above the level of Lake Superior.
3. Prairies.—In the southwestern part of the state, there are prairies of considerable extent and great fertility.
4. Rivers.—The rivers of the southern peninsula are small, but, running with a rapid descent from the dividing ridge to the east and west, afford abundance of mill-sites. The principal of these are the St. Joseph's, with a course of 200 miles, and navigable for steamboats seventy miles; the Kalamazoo, a smaller and more rapid stream, navigable for boats; the Grand River, which has a winding course of about 300 miles, rising to the northwest of Saginaw Bay; the Maskegon, and the Manistree, all flowing into Lake Michigan: the Cheboygan, a large stream at the north, flowing into Lake Huron; the Thunder Bay River, flowing into Thunder Bay; the Saginaw, composed of several large branches meeting from the south, the east, the west, and the north, and passing into the bay of the same name; and the Huron and French rivers, smaller streams running into Lake Erie. The rivers of the northern peninsula mostly flow north, into Lake Superior. Of these, the principal are the Octonagon; the Keewaiwona, flowing into a bay of the same name; the Huron and the Chocolate. The Montreal, flowing into Lake Superior, is the north-western boundary, and has a fall of about ninety feet just above its mouth. The Menomonee, navigable eighty miles, flows into Green Bay, and forms the southwestern limit of this section.
Exercises on the Map of Michigan.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What waters separate Michigan into tow peninsulas? Where are the following: Thunder Bay; Saginaw Bay; Grand Traverse Bay; Beaver Isles; Green Bay; Mackinaw? Describe the following rivers: Thunder Bay River; Saginaw Bay River; Grand Rapids; Maskegon; Manistree. Capital? Direction of the following places from Lansing: Detroit; Kalamazoo; Saginaw; Mackinaw?
LESSON LVI. 1. Characteristics of Michigan? 2. Mountains? 3. Prairies? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes, harbors, and bays?
[begin surface 465]No region in this country is at the same time so picturesque and so valuable as the tracts about Lake Superior in which the great mines abound. Travellers who have visited it can scarcely find rhetoric enough to express their admiration of its natural beauties; while the scientific men inform us that its deposits of iron[illegible]copper, and even of silver, are literally inexhaustib[illegible]The writer of the late geological report of the U[illegible]d States government speaks of a single run of iron, (which has been proved by analysis and experiment to be the best in the world, surpassing the far-famed Swedish iron,) as capable of supplying the demand of mankind for ages.
But the great difficulty with this region heretofore has been its almost inaccessibility. It can only be reached by a circuitous and wearisome navigation through Lakes Erie, St. Clair, Huron, St. Mary's River and the canal around St. Mary's Falls, and up Lake Superior; and then even this winding route is closed during the greater part of the year by the "frost's giants" of those cold northern latitudes. This obstacle, while it has prevented as complete an emigration thither as might otherwise have gone, has retarded the development of its resources and impaired the facilities of trade.
Under such circumstances, every enterprising person will hail the prospect which is now opened to us, of a railroad approach to those rich and beautiful out-skirts. It was truly observed of the Americans, the other day, by the London Times, that they build railroads, not to accomodate great centres of trade, but to create them, and the project of the Chicago, St. Paul and Fond du Lac Railroad Company is an evidence of this characteristic. Under liberal charters, granted by the states of Wisconsin and Michigan, and by judicious consolidations with several other companies, such as the Wisconsin and Lake Superior Land Grate, and the Ontonagon and Marquette State Line Land Grant Companies, it has possessed itself of a most feasible route between Chicago and Lake Superior, and a prodigious amount of land to aid its work of construction. The estimate is that at least 1,260,000 acres of fine territory falls to the possession of this incorporation by the recent legislation of Congress.
The Chicago and Fond du Lac road is already nearly completed from Chicago to Fond du Lac, a distance of 180 miles; an intermediate division of fifty-five miles only remaining to be constructed on this part of the line. For the completion of the part from Fond du Lac to Lake Superior, the lands granted by Congress will more than supply and guaranty all means that may be required. The name of William B. Ogden of Chicago, who is at the head of the enterprise, is an assurance that the whole business will be not only energetically, but economically administered.
The surveys for this route carry it, not only through the best timber lands of the district, but over the most productive slate quarries, and along the most teeming mineral beds. There are single sections of iron ore alone, tapped by this route, which could not be purchased for a hundred thousand dollars, while the prospective value of the region as a whole, can hardly be calculated.
[begin surface 467]5. Lakes, Harbors, and Bays.—Lakes Superior, Huron, St. Clair, and Erie bound the state on the north and east. Lake Michigan lies almost wholly within its limits. It is 360 miles in length, with a mean breadth of sixty miles, and covers an area of 17,000 square miles; its surface is 600 feet above that of the ocean, and its mean depth 900 feet. Its waters are clear, and abound with fish. It discharges itself into Lake Huron through the Straits of Michilimacinac, forty miles in length. In the northwestern part of the lake is the large bay called Green Bay. Saginaw Bay, on Lake Huron, is thirty-two miles wide, and extends about sixty miles inland. The lake shores afford few good harbors in proportion to their extent. Lake Superior, the largest fresh-water lake in the world, is 380 miles long and 130 wide. The boundary between the United States and Canada passes through its center. It is surrounded by a rocky and uneven coast, and contains many considerable islands, one of which, Isle Royal, is forty miles wide and forty broad. The lake abounds in sturgeon, salmon-trout, and white-fish, which are extensively caught. The storms here are equal to those of the Atlantic. The depth and elevation of the lake are nearly the same as those of Lake Michigan. Its waters are remarkably clear; it receives thirty considerable rivers, and discharges itself, through St. Mary River, into Lake Huron. The rapids here prevent vessels from passing into it from Lake Huron. The Pictured Rocks are described under the head of curiosities. Lake Huron, through which the boundary between the United States and Canada runs, is 218 miles and 130 broad. It has numerous islands; one of them, the Grand Manitou, is eighty miles long. The borders of this lake are shallow, but it is very deep in the center. Lake Erie is 240 miles long, and from thirty to sixty broad. It receives the waters of Superior, Michigan, and Huron lakes, through Detroit River, and discharges its waters through Niagara River, into Lake Ontario. Lake St. Clair lies between Lake Huron and Lake Erie; it is twenty-four miles long and thirty wide. It is connected with Lake Huron by the River St. Clair, which consists of six channels at its mouth, only one of which is navigable. This lake discharges itself into Lake Erie through Detroit River. The navigable waters of these lakes are under the jurisdiction of the United States government, in the same manner as the seas along our coasts. (See map, p. 28.)
6. Islands.—There are several groups of islands in the northern part of Lake Michigan, called the Manitou Isles, Fox Isles, and Beaver Isles.
7. Curiosities.—The southeastern shore of Lake Superior exhibits a singular phenomenon, called the Pictured Rocks. They are a series of lofty bluffs and precipices, exhibiting the appearance of towering walls, ruins, caverns, waterfalls, &c., in every variety of combination. They extend twelve miles, and are generally about 300 feet in hight, and often overhang the water. The color varies in shades of black, yellow, red, white, and brown. The waves, driven by the violent north winds, have worn the rocky shores into numerous caverns, bays, and indentations, which increase the romantic effect of these appearances. In some places, these caverns receive the waves with a tremendous roar. In one place, a cascade tumbles from the top of the rock in so wide a curve, that boats pass between the sheet of water and the shore. Another spot exhibits a mass of rock, supported by four natural pillars, and overgrown on the top with trees; it is called the Doric Rock, and closely resembles a work of art.
8. Mineral Springs.—Salt springs occur in many places.
9. Vegetable Products.—The water-courses, ponds, and marshes in the northwest are covered with wild rice. It is a tall, reedy water-plant, and springs up from the depth of six or seven feet, where the bottom is soft and muddy; it rises nearly as high above the water; its leaves and spikes resemble those of oats, but are much larger. When it is intended to be preserved, the spikes are bound together to preserve the grain from the water-fowls, which resort to these spots in millions. After it has ripened, canoes are rowed among the grain, blankets are spread in the bottoms of the canoes, and the grain is beaten out upon them. It is as white as common rice, and has much the taste of sage. This constituted a large part of the food of the Indians who formerly resided in this quarter. The forests in this quarter, consisting of oak, beech, and maple, are very lofty. In the southern peninsula the same trees are found. The soil is adapted to the common grains and grasses. Apples, pears, and plums flourish, but the climate is too cold for peaches.
10. Animals.—The elk, bear, deer, lynx, wild-cat, wild turkeys, and aquatic fowls, are common. The celebrated white-fish, siscaquet, and salmon-trout weighing from ten to seventy pounds each, are abundant, particularly in Lake Huron.
11. Minerals.—A part of the southern shores of Lakes Michigan and Huron present limestone, gypsum, and briny springs. Iron, lead, coal, and peat are also found in different parts. Copper is abundant in the northwest, and extensive companies are occupied in obtaining it. On the banks of the Ontonagon large masses of native copper have been found, one of which weighed 2200 pounds. The copper region extends along the southern shores of Lake Superior, and the mines are probably the richest in the world.
12. Climate.—The winters are severe, particularly in the northern part, and snow lies to the depth of from six to eighteen inches, for several weeks, even in the southern part. The average temperature of winter is 20°, of summer 80°. The spring is wet and backward; summer dry; autumn mild; winter dry and cold.
13. Soil.—A large part of the southern peninsula is fertile, and well adapted to agriculture. The upper part abounds in lofty forests, but presents little attraction to the farmer, on account of its broken and rugged nature.
14. Face of the Country.—The center of the southern peninsula forms an elevated table-land, 300 feet above the surface of the lakes, and divides the waters flowing into Lake Michigan from those running into Lakes Erie, St. Clair, and Huron. The face of the country, in general, is level, or gently undulating; the southern part consists of open land, known by the name of the Oak Plains, with a productive soil; in the southwest are fertile prairies. Along the southeastern shore of Lake Michigan are sand-hills, thrown by the winds into fantastic forms, generally bare, but sometimes covered with stunted oaks. The northern peninsula is more hilly and broken. The rivers are obstructed by rocks, and there are numerous falls of great hight. The northwest is mountainous.
6. Islands? 7. Curiosities? 8. Mineral springs? 9. Vegetable products? 10. Animals? 11. Minerals? 12. Climate? 13. Soil?
[begin surface 468]15. Divisions.—Michigan is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Michigan with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
16. Agriculture.—This is devoted to the raising of wheat, rye, oats, maize, buckwheat, barley, flax, hemp, garden vegetables, and grasses. Cattle are numerous.
17. Manufactures.—These are in their infancy, yet they are considerable, and rapidly increasing.
18. Commerce.—This consists chiefly in the export of surplus produce, which has reached a very large amount. Furs, from the interior, and lumber, to a great extent, are also exported. The imports consist of foreign manufactures and tropical productions. The facilities for commerce by steamboats, propellers, and sail-vessels are unrivaled. Steamboats start daily from Buffalo, touch at various ports in Ohio, along the southern shore of Lake Erie, pass up Detroit River, through Lake and River St. Clair, across Lake Huron, through the straits of Mackinaw, to Milwaukee, in Wisconsin, and Chicago, in Illinois—making the trip in about four days. The railroad line, direct from Niagara Falls or Buffalo, through Canada, to Detroit, and thence across the country to Michigan City, is made in eighteen hours, and to Chicago in twenty hours—about 508 miles. A passenger can now go from Detroit to the city of New York in thirty hours. As an extraordinary example of extended internal navigation, it may be stated that sugars are brought from New Orleans to Detroit by way of the Mississippi, through Illinois, and also through Ohio, and across Lake Erie—2200 miles.
19. Lumbering.—This, embracing pine, walnut, maple, and white-wood, is carried on to an immense extent—the lumber being sent down the Mississippi and the Ohio, and also across the lakes to New York and Boston.
20. Mining.—The mining operations are chiefly confined to copper, along the shores of Lake Superior. These are of great extent, being conducted by incorporated companies established in our larger cities, the heaviest operators being in Boston and Pittsburg.
21. Fisheries.—The taking of white-fish, siscaquet, sturgeon, and salmon-trout is largely carried on. These are salted and exported to a considerable extent.
22. Hunting.—A few trappers are occupied in taking wild animals for their fur. Considerable amounts of skins are also obtained from the Indians, who sell them to traders who visit them in their remote haunts.
23. Railroads.—Michigan has projected and commenced an extensive system of internal improvements, but only a portion of these are completed. The Michigan Central Railroad from Detroit, westward, and the Michigan Southern Railroad from Monroe and Toledo, are in full operation. Plank roads are getting into use.
24. Inhabitants.—There are a few descendants of the early French settlers at Detroit; but by far the larger portion are immigrants from other states, with a considerable mixture of foreign population. The Indians have mostly disappeared in the southern part.
25. Education.—In 1850 Michigan had 2714 public schools, attended by 110,455 scholars; 37 academies, attended by 1619 pupils; and 3 colleges, attended by 308 students. The University, at Ann Arbor, is the principal collegiate institution, and has departments in law, medicine, divinity, science, and agriculture. St. Philip's College, near Detroit, is a Roman Catholic institution; and there are also several professional schools and academies in the state.
26. Chief Towns.—Lansing, on Grand river, is the seat of government. In 1847 it was in the wilderness—in 1850 it had 1229 inhabitants. The city of Detroit, formerly the capital, and much the largest town in the state, occupies the site of an old French fort and village, which took the name Detroit, meaning Strait, from the river which connects Lake St. Clair and Erie. Although founded at the beginning of the last century, Detroit was an inconsiderable village in 1830; its business and population have increased with great rapidity during the last few years, and must continue to grow with the growth of the great region bordering on the upper lakes. It is the dépôt of the northwestern fur trade, and, standing in the center of this great chain of seas, and on the summit level in which the principal rivers of the continent rise, it communicates easily with Quebec, New York, New Orleans, and with the shores of Lakes Superior, Huron, and Michigan. Numerous large steamers run between this city and Chicago on one side, and Buffalo on the other, touching at the intermediate ports. Mackinaw is a village, and a United States military post, on an island and strait of the same name, at the northwestern extremity of Lake Huron. It is commanded by a very strong fort, situated on a lofty bluff. The Indians assemble here once a year to receive their annuity from the United States government. Monroe City, near the mouth of the River Raisin, is accessible by large vessels from the lake, and is a place of commercial importance. Adrian is a large interior town; Tecumseh, on the Raisin, is a small village; Ann Arbor, the seat of the University of Michigan, is a fine, growing town; Ypsilanti, on Huron River, is a thriving village;
14. Face of the country? 15. Divisions? 16. Agriculture? 17. Manufactures? 18. Commerce? 19. Lumbering? 20. Mining? 21. Fisheries? 22. Hunting? 23. Railroads? 24. Inhabitants? 25. Schools? Academies? Colleges? 26. Towns? 27. History?
[begin surface 469]Jackson, on Grand River, is a considerable and growing town, with the state-prison; Pontiac, on the Clinton, Kalamazoo and Marshall, on the Kalamazoo River, are all places of some note; St. Mary's, at the Rapids, is a trading post, and is thriving; Mt. Clemens, on the coast of Lake Huron, and St. Joseph, on the Michigan, are small villages. Lansing, the capital, is pleasantly situated near the confluence of the Grand and Cedar rivers. The district around is extremely fertile. The greater part of the towns in the state are in the southern portion. Mackinaw, and St. Mary's at the Falls, are the most northern settlements, excepting those of the copper mines, near Lake Superior. Niles, in the southerly part of the state, is an important and growing town. In the county of Ottowa, on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, a rich and thriving settlement of 3000 Germans has lately been made, where they have fine lands and a good harbor.
27. History.—The region along the upper lakes was claimed by the French, in consideration of the explorations of Champlain, who visited Lake Huron in 1615. Some time after, a fort was built, and a mission established at Mackinaw. The Jesuit missionaries made exertions to convert the Indians, who were numerous in this region. They had some success with the large and powerful tribe of the Hurons. Fort Pontchartrain, on the present site of Detroit, was built by the French in 1747. In 1763, this country passed, with Canada, into the hands of the British, but the English garrison at Fort Mackinaw was surprised and massacred by the Indians in that year. The master-spirit of this period, among the savages, was Pontiac, chief of the Ottawas, an ancient tribe who exercised a sort of sovereignty over the others. Pontiac claimed to be a king, and received homage as such. He was the strenuous friend of the French, and the enemy of the English. After the conquest of Quebec, he still claimed to be king of the country, and when the British agent was sent thither, the chief placed himself in his way, and said haughtily, "I stand in the path you travel till to-morrow morning," He seemed to submit to the English for a time, but in 1763 he united with the Hurons, Miamis, Chippeways, Ottawas, Pottawattamies, Mississanges, and other tribes scattered in these regions, in a general conspiracy. Their first object of attack was Michilimacinac. This was taken by stratagem—the Indians gaining admission to the fort during a game of ball, which they called baggatiway. Seventy of the soldiers were put to death. The rest were sent to Montreal, and ransomed. Eleven other English forts speedily fell into the hands of the savages. Pontiac's power at this point was great. He drew bills on birch bark, consisting of a gun, bag of corn, or deer, and signing them with the figure of an otter, which was his coat-of-arms. These passed current among the Indians, and were faithfully redeemed. Detroit was now on the point of falling into the hands of the Indians, but the plot was discovered, and the garrison were prepared for the attack. The place was besieged for more than a year. In a sally of the fort, a fierce battle was fought at a place which now bears the name of Bloody Bridge. The siege continued until the place was relieved by an English army of 3000 men, under Gen. Bradstreet. Pontiac retired, and reluctantly submitted to the English. He was killed in 1767, by an Indian spy, in their interest. He was one of the most remarkable men of his race for resolute courage, deep sagacity, fertile invention, mighty projects, and stirring eloquence. The post of Detroit was Pontiac. resigned to the United States, by the English, in 1796. In 1805, Michigan belonged to the Northwest Territory, but in that year it was placed under a distinct territorial government. In 1812 Detroit fell into the hands of the British, with a large American force, under the command of the cowardly and incompetent Gen. Hull. Several massacres of American soldiers, who had surrendered, took place, by the Indian allies of the British, in violation of pledges. The next year, September, 1813, the whole British fleet on Lake Erie surrendered to Commodore Perry. This event happened at the western extremity of the lake, near the limits of Michigan. Gen. Harrison, commanding the American forces, now turned the tide of war against the enemy, and, by the splendid victory of the Thames, eighty miles from Detroit, completely defeated the British army, with their powerful Indian allies, under the renowned Tecumseh. This victory restored our complete ascendency in this quarter. Michigan was admitted as a state in 1836, and has since rapidly advanced in prosperity. The powerful Indian tribes which extended their alliances far north in the British possessions, and south, so as to include the Six Nations of Northern New York, have been cut down by the scythe of civilization, and, as before remarked, have nearly disappeared from the southern peninsula of this state. There are considerable numbers in the northern portion. Small parties may be frequently seen at Detroit. Several thousands come from the surrounding regions, annually, to receive their annuities from the United States, according to treaty. These payments are made at Mackinaw and Grand Rapids.
1. Characteristics.—This is a new state, between the Mississippi River and lakes Michigan and Superior.
2. Mountains.—The Porcupine range traverses the central part of this state, some of the peaks being 2600 feet high. In the northern part of the state, bordering upon the Mississippi, the country is much broken with hills.
3. Prairies.—There are extensive prairies in the south, affording great range for pasturage.
4. Rivers.—The Mississippi washes the western boundary, and receives the principal rivers. The Rock River passes into Illinois, but is navigable within the limits of Wisconsin. The Wisconsin is one of the most important tributaries of the Upper Mississippi, and has a course of about 500 miles, rising near the sources of the Montreal of Lake Superior, and the Menomonee of Lake Michigan, and approaching, at the Great Bend, within a few miles of Fox River. Its navigation is obstructed by shoals and bars, except in high stages of the water. The Chippewa is also a large stream, entering the Mississippi. The St. Louis flows into the Fond du Lac, or head of Lake Superior, and may therefore be considered as the source of the St. Lawrence. It is much broken by rapids and falls. The Fox River, of Green Bay, is a fine navigable stream, with some rapids.
5. Lakes.—This state touches upon Lake Superior on the north, and Lake Michigan on the east. There are many small lakes and swamps, abounding in fish, in the north. Lake Winnebago, between Fond du Lac and Fox River, is twenty-four miles long, and ten broad. There are four beautiful small lakes near Madison.
6. Bay and Shores.—The only good harbor on the west coast of Lake Michigan is at Milwaukee. Green Bay is partly in this state, at the head of which is a good harbor.
7. Vegetable Products.—Wild rice is common here, as well as in Michigan. The prairies are covered with tall grass and weeds. The greater part of the country is occupied by heavy forests of oak, maple, walnut, &c. White pine is found in the north.
Map of Wisconsin. Extent, 53,924 square miles. First settled by the French. Admitted into the Union in 1848. Population in 1850, 305,191.—Population to the square mile, 5.65.8. Minerals.—The southwestern part of Wisconsin is exceedingly rich as a mineral region, which extends into Illinois and Iowa. Lead ore, yielding 75 per cent, of metal, is abundant. This whole lead district produced 30,000,000 pounds in 1839. Copper ore is also extensively found. The former has long been, and the latter is beginning to be wrought. Iron ore also exists.
9. Animals.—The bear, elk, deer, and the smaller quadrupeds are abundant. The rivers and lakes are the resort of sea-fowl, and their waters are filled with fish. Grouse and wild turkeys are common.
10. Climate.—This very nearly corresponds with that of Michigan.
11. Soil.—In the southwest are extensive tracts of good soil, with occasional swamps and marshes, or, as they are called, wet prairies. Many of these have a rich soil, of great depth. Bordering on the Mississippi and Wisconsin, the soil is rich, and covered with heavy timber. All the grains and common fruits flourish.
Exercises on the Map of Wisconsin.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What two great lakes touch upon Wisconsin? What great river bounds it on the west? Where is Lake Winnebago? Green Bay? Describe the following: Wisconsin River; Peshtego. Capital? Direction of the following places from Madison: Milwaukee; Mineral Point; Prairie du Chien; Green Bay?
LESSON LVII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Prairies? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Bays and shores? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Minerals? 9. Animals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil?
[begin surface 471]OSHKOSH CITY, Wisconsin, April 11.—Like many other flourishing places in the West, this town stands where about fifteen years ago, there was nothing but a howling wilderness. Its fine geographical position has been one of the chief elements of its rapid growth and prosperity. Situated on the Fox river, near its confluence with Lake Winnebago—a beautiful sheet of water, thirty miles long and twelve wid[illegible]—you can go hence by steamboat 160 miles northwesterly up the Wolf river to the heart of the pine regions, and southwesterly to the "Father of Waters," and north to the Great lakes. The climate is proverbially healthy. Even fever and ague, which is so generally prevalent in the Western States, is entirely unknown here. The growth of this place during the last two years has been very remarkable. Its population, now 8,000, is just double what it was about eighteen months since, and is rapidly increasing by fresh arrivals from the Eastern and older Western States. We have at present no railroads just here, but there are several being constructed which will in the course of the coming summer enter Oshkosh, and connect it with Lake Michigan on the east, and the Mississippi on the west. Our city corporation (for we have a Mayor and five alderman) have contracted with a Chicago company to have gasworks erected here this summer, of sufficient capacity to supply a population of 30,000. It is confidently believed that in less than five years Oshkosh will rank only second to Milwaukie of any city in the state, as nature has been most bountiful of her favors to it, and its population is of the most active, industrious and enterprising character.
[begin surface 473]12. Face of the Country.—The southern part is generally of a level character. North of the Wisconsin the country rises into hills, and at last swelling into mountains, with a broken surface, creates falls and rapids in the streams, with wild and picturesque scenery. Farther north, near the sources of the Mississippi, is an elevated table-land, with lakes and swamps abounding in wild rice.
13. Political Divisions.—As follows: This table lists the counties of Wisconsin with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
14. Agriculture.—Every thing is here in its infancy, but the useful arts have been developed with astonishing rapidity. Cattle are raised in large quantities, and the harvests of grain are abundant.
15. Manufactures.—These are considerably diversified, and are rapidly increasing in amount.
16. Commerce.—This consists mainly of the exports of produce, which are great and important, considering the recent settlement of the state. Milwaukee is the chief port. There is considerable trade also at Green Bay, and Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi, the latter being visited by steamboats ascending that river at high water.
17. Lumbering.—This is carried on to an immense extent; the lumber consisting of pine, black-walnut, and maple. It is sent to market by way of Lake Michigan, and down the Mississippi.
18. Mining.—This is chiefly confined to lead and copper—the first in the southwest and copper in the north.
19. Fisheries.—The white-fish, salmon-trout, and siscaquet are extensively taken in the lakes.
20. Railroads and Canals.—Many are in progress: one to connect Milwaukee with the Mississippi, and others from Madison, Janesville, etc., toward Chicago. A line also stretches along the lake shore. There is a canal at the portage between the Fox and Wisconsin rivers.
21. Inhabitants.—This state has been chiefly settled from the other states, with a considerable infusion of foreigners. The Chippewas, Winnebagoes, Menomonees, and other Indian tribes, formerly inhabited this country.
22. Education.—In 1850 there were in the state 1423 primary and common schools, attended by 58,817 scholars; 58 academies and other schools, attended by 2723 pupils; and 2 colleges, attended by 75 students. The University, at Madison, was founded in 1848. There are now colleges at Beloit, Sinsinawa, Racine, and Ripon, and theological schools at Waukesha and Milwaukee.
23. Chief Towns.—The most important place in the state is Milwaukee, on Lake Michigan. Having the only good harbor between Chicago and Green Bay, it has become a great commercial mart. It is connected by steamboat and railway with the lake ports and the east, and the Mississippi by railway. The increase of this place in population has few parallels. Green Bay has a thriving trade. Racine and Cheboygan, on the lake, and Prairie du Chien, near the junction of the Mississippi and Wisconsin, are other principal places. The latter is on a beautiful prairie, and has a large trade. Madison, the capital, is beautifully situated in the neighborhood of several fine lakes.
24. History.—Wisconsin has a brief history. It was claimed by the French as part of their northern possessions, and they early made a settlement at Prairie du Chien. Here the United States established a fort and an Indian trading post, which continued a long time to mark the frontier of our settlements in this quarter. The country came to us in 1783, from the English, who obtained it from the French in 1763. It was formed into a Territory in 1836, and admitted into the Union on the 29th May, 1848. Its progress in population has been very rapid.
12. Face of the country? 13. Divisions? 14. Agriculture? 15. Manufactures? 16. Commerce? 17. Lumbering? 18. Mining? 19. Fisheries? 20. Canals and railroads? 21. Inhabitants? 22. Schools? Academies? Colleges? 23. Chief towns? 24. History?
1. Characteristics.—Iowa, lying between the two great rivers, Missouri and Mississippi, is an extensive and flourishing state, noted for its fertile soil, fine climate, and rich minerals.
2. Mountains.—There are hills, swells, and undulations in this state, but none that can be properly called mountains.
3. Prairies.—These extend over three-fourths of the state. They are destitute of trees and shrubs, but are covered with luxuriant wild grass.
4. Rivers.—The Mississippi bounds this state on the east, and the Missouri on the west. The Des Moines River rises in a beautiful group of lakes near lat. 44° north, and, after a short course, enters and flows through the central part of the state, and mingles with the Mississippi at the foot of the Des Moines Rapids, forming a part of its southeast boundary. Its whole course is about 400 miles. It is susceptible of navigation, by very moderate improvements, for a distance of 250 miles. The other tributaries of the Mississippi from this state, are the Chacagua or Skunk River, the Iowa—300 miles long, and navigable to Iowa city—the Wapsipinecon, Makoqueta, Penaca or Turkey, and the Upper Iowa. The streams flowing into the Missouri are the head waters of the Chariton, Grand, Little Platte, Nodaway, and Nishnebottona. The Little Sioux rises in Spirit Lake, and has its course wholly in the state; as is also the case with Floyd's, Boyer's, and Five Barrel Creek.
5. Lakes.—This state has numerous small lakes in the north, the largest of which, Spirit Lake, is about twenty miles long.
6. Vegetable Products.—The forests, embracing the various deciduous trees common to this region, rise to a great hight. Crab-apples, plums, strawberries, and grapes are indigenous and abundant.
7. Animals.—The bison, bear, deer, panther, wolf, fox, wild turkey, grouse, and the smaller quadrupeds, are abundant.
8. Minerals.—A portion of Iowa is exceedingly rich as a mineral region. The great lead-country of the northern part of Illinois, and the southern part of Wisconsin, crosses the Mississippi, and in Iowa comprehends about eighty townships, containing about 2880 square miles. It borders upon the Little Makoqueta River, about twelve miles from east to west, and extends a considerable distance south, and still further north, along the Mississippi. Zinc and iron ore also abound in this region. Some of the latter is magnetic. Limestone is abundant, and there is some beautiful marble. The town of Dubuque, northeast of Iowa city, is in the center of the mineral region.
9. Climate.—The climate, excepting some low bottom-lands on the rivers and streams, is salubrious. The streams are not sluggish, and, therefore, their borders are more healthy than in some portions of the western country. Winter commences in December, and ends in March. The Map of Iowa. Extent, 50,914 square miles. First settled in 1882. Admitted into the Union in 1846. Population, 192,214.—Population to the square mile, 3.77. weather is variable, and sometimes severe, but less so than is common in the same latitude.
9. Soil.—This is generally good, consisting of a deep, black mold. In the prairies, it is mixed with sandy loam, and sometimes with red clay and gravel.
11. Face of the Country.—There is a general slope to the southwest, as the rivers flowing into the Mississippi show. The western and southern portions incline toward the Missouri. Numerous swells form a fine arrangement of upland and lowland plains. The prairies are magnificent.
12. Divisions.—Iowa is divided as follows: This table lists the counties of Iowa with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total.
Exercises on the Map of Iowa.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? Between what two great rivers does Iowa lie? Describe the following rivers: Des Moines; Red Cedar; Floyd's River. Capital? Direction of the following places from Iowa City: Burlington, Bloomington, Marion?
LESSON LVIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Prairies? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Vegetable products? 7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Face of the country?
We copy from "Iowa as It Is" the following description of this grand and important structure:
"The great railroad bridge crossing the Mississippi at Davenport is steadily progressing, and the greater part of the masonry is completed. Its entire length will be 5,832 feet, consisting of spans of 250 feet each, exclusive of bearings. The river is divided into two channels at this point by the beautiful isle, Rock Island. The main channel is upon the Illinois side of the river. That portion of the bridge over the main channel is 1,583 feet in length. The circular-shaped draw-pier, which stands near the center of this channel, is forty feet in height, forty six feet in diameter at the foundation, and thirty-seven at the top.
"On each side of the draw-pier is a draw of 120 feet, working on the rotary principle; making in all a clear space of 240 feet for the passage of river craft. These draws are open at all times, save when a train is due; and even in that case, if a boat is in sight, it will have the preference.
"The average height of the bridge is 30 feet above low water.
Besides the draw-pier, there are five others. These are oblong in shape, and measure, at the base, 57 feet by 16 to 18; at their top, 24 feet b[cutaway] 7 to 10.
"There are two abutments, one on the island and one on the Iowa shore, containing together about 6,000 yards of masonry.
"This bridge connects with a huge embankment, built over the lower point of the island, which lies very low, containing 125,000 cubic yards of earth, and costing $40,000. At the west end, this embankment connects with another bridge, of less dimensions, over the Illinois channel of the Mississippi. This lesser bridge has two piers and three spans, of 150 feet each, all constructed in the same style, and upon the same principle as those of the bridge over the main channel.
"The entire length of the two bridges and the intervening embankment is 5,832 feet. The cost of the entire work will be $260,000. The bridges are being built for a single track. Their wooden work will be of pine and oak. Mr. John Warner has the contract for the masonry and grading, and Messrs. Stone & Boomer for the superstructure. The contractors are all energetic men, and are doing the work with the utmost fidelity. The bridges are built according to Howe's improved patent, and when completed will be models of strength and beauty."
[begin surface 477]Continuation of table listing the counties of Iowa with their populations in 1850, including a column for the major town in each county and the town's population.
13. Agriculture.—The agricultural productions are Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, potatoes, pumpkins, garden vegetables, and various fruits. Horses, mules, sheep, cattle, and swine are largely produced.
14. Manufactures.—These are considerably varied. There are large flour-mills, saw-mills, tanneries, etc.
15. Commerce.—This is chiefly confined to the export of produce, which is mostly carried down the Mississippi. Foreign goods are brought by railroad from Chicago to Galena, and thence to Dubuque. Lead is sent by this route to the coast, as well as down the Mississippi.
16. Lumbering.—Considerable lumber, pine, black-walnut, and maple is taken to market.
17. Mining.—The lead mines are extensively wrought, and lead forms a large article of export.
18. Canals and Railroads.—Two or three railroads extend across the state from the Mississippi to the Missouri. A canal is projected to pass the rapids of the Mississippi at Keokuk. Many other river improvements have also been undertaken. The internal improvements of Illinois, and the states further east, afford easy communication with the Atlantic country.
19. Inhabitants.—These consist of immigrants from other states, with many foreigners. The Sioux, Sacs, Foxes, and other Indians, formerly inhabited this state. The celebrated Black Hawk had his residence in this state, on the Des Moines. After he was captured he made a speech to Gen. Atkinson, of which the following is a part: "You have taken me prisoner, with all my warriors. I am much grieved, for I expected, if I did not defeat you, to hold out much longer, and give you more trouble before I surrendered. I tried hard to bring you into ambush, but your last general understands Indian fighting. The first one was not so wise. When I saw that I could not beat you by Indian fighting, I determined to rush upon you, and fight you face to face. I fought hard; but your guns were well aimed. The bullets flew like birds in the air and whizzed by our ears like the wind through the trees in winter. My warriors fell around me. It began to look dismal. I saw my evil day at hand. The sun rose dim on us in the morning, and at night it sank in a dark cloud, and looked like a ball of fire. That was the last sun that shone on Black Hawk. ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ You know the cause of our making war. It is known to all white men. They ought to be ashamed of it. The white men despise the Indians, and drive them from their homes. But the Indians are not deceitful. The white men speak bad of the Indian, and look at him spitefully. But the Indian does not lie: Indians do not steal. An Indian who is as bad as the white men could not live in our nation; he would be put to death, and eaten by the wolves. The white men are bad schoolmasters: they carry false looks, and deal in false actions; they smile in the face of the poor Indian to cheat him; they shake them by the hand to gain their confidence, to make them drunk, to deceive them, and ruin our wives. We were not safe. We lived in danger. We were becoming like them, hypocrites and liars, adulterers, lazy drones, all talkers, and no workers. We looked up to the Great Spirit. We went to our great father. We were encouraged. His great council gave us fair words and big promises; but we got no satisfaction. Things were growing worse. There were no deer in the forest. The opossum and beaver were fled. The springs were drying up, and our squaws and papooses without victuals to keep them from starving. We called a great Black Hawk. council, and built a large fire. The spirit of our fathers arose and spoke to us, to avenge our wrongs or die. We all spoke before the council fire. It was warm and pleasant. We set up the war-whoop, and dug up the tomahawk. Our knives were ready, and the heart of Black Hawk swelled high in his bosom when he led his warriors to battle. He is satisfied. He will go to the world of spirits contented. He has done his duty. His father will meet him there and commend him. Farewell, my nation! Black Hawk tried to save you, and avenge your wrongs. He drank the blood of some of the whites. He has been taken prisoner, and his plans are stopped. He can do no more. He is near his end. His sun is setting, and he will rise no more. Farewell to Black Hawk."
20. Education.—In 1850 there were 742 primary and common schools, attended by 29,616 scholars; 31 academies, attended by 1051 pupils; and 2 colleges, attended by 100 students. Iowa has now a State University at Iowa City, and colleges at Des Moines, Burlington, and Dubuque; and at Keokuk is a flourishing medical college, a department of the State University.
21. Towns—Iowa City is the seat of government. Burlington, on the Mississippi, 1429 miles above New Orleans, is a place of much trade. Dubuque is the center of the mineral region. Keokuk, Fort Madison, Bloomington, Davenport, and Salem are thriving places.
22. History.—Iowa is a part of the Louisiana purchase. In 1832, the Indian title was extinguished in a part of the territory, and the settlement was commenced immediately after. It was separated from Wisconsin, and became an organized territory, in 1838. On the 28th December, 1846, it was admitted into the Union.
12. Political Divisions? 13. Agriculture? 14. Manufactures? 15. Commerce? 16. Lumbering? 17. Mining? 18. Canals and railroads? 19. Inhabitants? What of Black Hawk? 20. Schools? Academies? Colleges? 21. Towns? 22. History?
Extent of Minnesota | 141,839 square miles. | Population in 1850, | Indians | 16500, | Civilized | 6,077 |
Extent of Nebraska Territory | 136,700 " | Population " | Indians chiefly | 80,000 | ||
Extent of Northwest Territory | 528,725 " | Population " | ||||
Extent of Indian Territory | 187,171 " | Population " | Indians | 100,000 | ||
Extent of New Mexico | 210,744 " | Population " | " | 45,000 | " | 61,547 |
1. General Remarks.—The territories of the United States comprise all that portion of the country not included in the states. These territories are of three descriptions: first, those having organized governments; second, those set apart for the exclusive occupation of Indians; and third, those of which no political disposition has been made.
2. The first description of these territorial possessions are in many respects organized in a similar manner to colonial governments. The authorities derive all their powers directly from Congress, and their governors and judges are appointed by the President for limited periods. The legislatures, however, are elected by the people; but no law passed by them can be valid until approved of by the power that originally established them as political bodies. Hence it is manifest that the general government, in forming these territories, does not relinquish its exclusive control over them, and that the laws passed by their legislatures are but the wishes of the inhabitants expressed through their representatives to be approved or annulled by a superior power. Of this description of territories are Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas, New Mexico, Utah, Oregon, and Washington.
3. The second description of these territories, or those set apart for the exclusive occupation of the Indians, are instanced in the vast tracts of country granted to the Cherokees, Choctaws, Chickasaws, and other tribes situated on the west borders of Arkansas and Missouri. These are special grants, and are irrevocable, except by concession of the Indians themselves; but Congress has power to regulate all intercourse between them and the white settlements and among the several nations. With regard to their internal affairs, however, the Indians enjoy the privilege of making their own laws without any ultimate control. Many of the tribes or nations located in the region embraced under this head have made great progress in civilization, and have churches and schools, as well as workshops and well-cultivated and well-stocked farms, with respectable dwellings.
4. The third description embraces only a small area; but until lately formed the greater part of the territory belonging to the general government. At the present time, however, we can include under this head only a small tract between the northern boundary of Texas and the 37th parallel of latitude and the territory acquired from Mexico in the year 1854, lying south of the Gila River, and which, from its including the Mesilla Valley, may appropriately be called the Mesilla Territory.
5. When an organized territory has acquired a population sufficient to give it one representative in Congress (say 100,000), it may be admitted as a member of the Union; but it must first have obtained the sanction of Congress to its forming a state constitution, and Congress must have subsequently approved of the constitution presented for its consideration. The change of its relations with the general government is the result of a special act of Congress. In this way the new states, with few exceptions, have been first under territorial governments, and have then been admitted as states of the United States. The territories at present existing are then as follows: Table showing the extent in square miles of the following territories: Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas, Indian, New Mexico, Utah, Oregon, and Washington. —of the unorganized territories (4) the extent of that north of Texas is about 7,000 square miles, and of that of the Mesilla Territory about 76,000 square miles.
6. Characteristics.—This territory is remarkable for its great rivers, its infinite number of small lakes, and its almost level surface.
7. Mountains.—Minnesota is destitute of any thing approaching to the dignity of a mountain; but it is a diversified country, and has many elevations of moderate height, called mounds.
8. Valleys.—Beautiful and well-wooded valleys border
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Minnesota? Extent? Population? Where does the Mississippi River rise? Where are the Falls of St. Anthony? Where is Red Lake? Itasca Lake? Devil's Lake? Where does Minnesota River rise? Where is Fort Snelling? St. Paul? Lake Pepin?
LESSON LIX. 1. General Remarks? Name the territories?
[begin surface 500]the streams, and afford a vast amount of rich alluvial lands, on which large crops may be grown.
9. Prairies.—These are of vast extent, and are destitute of trees and shrubs; but in the season of flowers present a gorgeous display of every form and hue.
10. Rivers.—The Mississippi has its source in this territory, and after a course of about 900 miles leaves its southeastern corner. This immense river commences in Itaska Lake, a beautiful sheet of pure water. On issuing from it, its width is only sixteen feet and its depth not more than fourteen inches. From this point it traverses, with a swift current and by a very circuitous route, a distance of 700 miles to the Falls of St. Anthony, below which it becomes navigable for steamboats to the Gulf of Mexico, receiving in its course a number of the finest rivers of the world. The Minnesota or St. Peter's, rises in a region of lakes at the head of the, Coteau des Prairies, and after a course of 470 miles it enters the Mississippi eight miles below the Falls of St. Anthony. The Red River of the North drains a large basin, flows into Winnipeg Lake, and thence into Hudson's Bay. The River Au Jaques flows through a fine valley and empties into the Missouri, which latter, with the White Earth River, form the whole western boundary.
11. Lakes.—Red Lake is 100 miles in circumference, and Leech Lake about 50 miles. Nearly one-fourth part of the territory is covered with small lakes.
12. Vegetable Products.—The prairies are clothed in wild grasses and flowers, and the lakes are bordered by wild rice. The forests consist of lofty deciduous trees. Along the northern portion of the Mississippi is a pine forest of great extent, called the Pinery.
13. Animals.—The buffalo roams in herds over great part of the territory, and elk, deer, beaver, wild-turkeys, and water-fowl abound. The waters teem with fish.
14. Climate and Soil.—The climate, moderated by the proximity of Lake Superior, is genial and mild for the latitude. The soil is generally excellent, but in the valley of the Minnesota it is extremely fertile and productive. It is a first-rate wheat country.
15. Face of the Country.—This presents a beautiful arrangement of high and low plains without mountains or distinct hills; yet there is considerable variety formed by the valleys of the water-courses, the ample woodlands and the intervening prairies. The lakes and rivers are so connected, that a continuous water-way for canoes traverses nearly the whole surface of the territory.
16. Divisions.—Minnesota is divided into counties, as follows: This table lists the counties of Minnesota with their populations in 1850 and includes a column for the major town in each county and the town's population. The county population is divided into the following categories: White, Free Colored, and Total. —a large number of new counties have been erected since the last census, and the population is now (1854) at least 20,000.
17. People.—The white inhabitants, consisting of emigrants from other states and many foreigners, are chiefly located in the southeast part of the territory. Most of the Indians, formerly numbering 30,000, have been removed from the territory. The chief tribe, and the most powerful in the United States was the Dacotah, or Sioux, who are now located beyond the Missouri.
Chippewa Cradle.18. Towns.—The settlements are numerous and flourishing, and are found along the river valleys. In the north, on the Red River, is the settlement founded by Lord Selkirk. St. Paul, the capital and principal trading place, is on the Mississippi, nearly opposite Fort Snelling, at the mouth of the Minnesota River.
19. History.—This region was first visited by the French, and afterward formed a portion of Louisiana. Many of the French names of localities are still retained. Except as the resort of the trapper, however, it remained unsettled until a very recent period; and it was so late 1849 that it received any organized government.
1. General Remarks.—These two new territories were erected, in 1854, from the North-West Territory, and in a small part from the Indian Territory. They are divided from each other by the 40th parallel of latitude, and together extend from the 37th to the 49th parallel, a distance of 830 miles from north to south, and occupy the region from the western borders of Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri to the crest of the Rocky Mountains. To a large portion of these territories the Indian title has not yet been extinguished, but enough is open for settlement to satisfy the most eager enterprise for years to come.
2. Characteristics.—Nebraska, which lies between the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains and between 40° and 49° north latitude, is an extremely varied country, with extensive rivers and much rich bottom land. Unlike Kansas, its southern neighbor, its arable lands extend almost to the great chain which bounds it on the west; while in the latter territory the cultivable lands are principally confined to a narrow belt fronting on its eastern limits.
3. Mountains.—Besides the Rocky Mountains on its west border, this territory is traversed by the Black Hills, which, commencing at the base of the former, have a course northeastwardly near to the British line.
6. Characteristics of Minnesota? 7. Mountains? 8. Valleys? 9. Prairies? 10. Rivers? 11. Lakes? 12. Vegetable products? 13. Animals? 14. Climate and soil? 15. Face of the country? 16. Divisions? 17. People? 18. Towns? 19. History?
[begin surface 501]It is likely that during the present Session of Congress three new States will be added to the Union—Minnesota, Oregon and Kansas; for before the end of the Session Kansas, we take it, will come in, though precisely how or under what constitution is still a matter of doubt. In place of these three Territories erected into States, three new Territories will present themselves as candidates for organization, namely Dacotah, Carson's Valley, which aspires to call itself Columbus, and Arizonia.
Dacotah, including that part of Minnesota Territory not embraced in the State, may no doubt be properly organized as a Territory, but the claims of the other two candidates are a good deal more questionable. Carson's Valley on the east slope of the Sierra Nevada has hitherto been a sort of debatable land between California and Utah. Till recently it has been chiefly inhabited by Mormon immigrants. They have lately moved back to Salt Lake or the neighborhood, upon the summons of Brigham Young to the Saints to concentrate for the defense of that holy city, but their places have been supplied by other settlers. These settlers wish to disconnect themselves from Utah, at the same time they do not seem to like much better the idea of a connection with California. Hence their scheme for being erected into a distinct Territory. Their isolated situation, separated as they are from Utah by deserts, and from California by mountains, gives them a certain claim to a government of their own. The objection is the small extent of land capable of cultivation.
The case of Arizonia, including the Territory on the Gila, is very similar. Its wide separation from the inhabited parts of New-Mexico would seem to point to a political separation. But there is the same objection to erecting it into a Territory as in the case of Carson's Valley. Arizonia, however, may get some help from the idea that Slavery may be smuggled in there.
4. Valleys.—Among the mountains there are numerous valleys, which, though small, are beautiful and fertile. The values of the Missouri, Yellow Stone, and Nebraska are well wooded, and afford excellent farm lands. The mountain valleys are rich in Alpine scenery, and will form excellent sheep pastures.
5. Prairies.—These are very extensive, and occupy principally a zone of 50 to 100 miles west of the Missouri River, and there are wide elevated plains between the Black Hills and Rocky Mountains.
6. Rivers.—The Missouri and its great tributary, the Yellow Stone, rise within this territory from the Rocky Mountains, and first pursuing a course northeasterly, unite near the northern extremity of the Black Hills, and from that point the stream has a southerly course along the eastern boundary of the territory. Innumerable affluents feed these rivers from both right and left. The Nebraska or Platte rises from the same mountains, but from a more southerly region, and has a course almost directly east to the Missouri, which it joins in latitude 41°.
7. Inhabitants.—The whole territory is still in possession of the Indians. The hunter alone has ventured into the country, or at most it may have been visited by a party of excursionists. There are, however, no white settlements; and so distant is even its eastern frontier from the states, that many years must elapse before it can receive a settled or reputable population.
8. History.—This territory is part of Louisiana as purchased from France, and still remains a wilderness. It was organized under its present name by Act of Congress in 1854, and a governor, administrative officers, and judges have already been appointed to await the arrival of a future population and legislature!
9. Characteristics.—The eastern part of this territory alone is cultivable, and that only for 100 to 150 miles from the frontier. Westward the land is a desert.
10. Mountains.—The Rocky Mountains, which lie on the western border, present several lofty culminations, and are the sources of large rivers flowing both to the east, west, and south. On the hills is an abundance of timber. The scenery is very fine, and often of wild and terrible grandeur.
11. Valleys.—There are a few fertile valleys on the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains; others, again, are desolate and barren, destitute of fuel or building material, and almost inaccessible. The river valleys are many of them very rich and very productive.
12. Rivers.—The territory is watered by the Kansas and its tributaries. In the extreme west the southern fork of the Nebraska has its rise, and thence passes into Nebraska. The Arkansas River drains the southern section. These rivers are partially navigable for river craft.
13. Climate, Soils, Products, etc.—The climate is colder than in the states, and subject to storms from the north; but it is not so ungenial as to interfere with outdoor labor. The soils along the eastern belt are rich and productive; but one grand difficulty is the scarcity of timber away from the rivers. Away beyond this eastern belt the lands are worthless; and hence it is on this alone that population will aggregate. The farm productions will be the same as in Iowa.
14. Desert.—An immense tract, called the Great American Desert, extends along the eastern part of the Rocky Mountains, from the Nebraska Territory to Texas, a length of nearly 600 miles. Its width varies from one to two hundred miles. The soil of this is arid, sterile sand, almost destitute of trees, and even shrubs. Vast tracts consist of bare rocks, gravel, or sand, presenting a few cactuses, grape-vines, and other plants. Nearly the whole region is either destitute of water a part of the year, or presents the exhausted traveler only a brackish and bitter draught. Many parts are whitened by saline efflorescence. It is unsusceptible of cultivation, yet in the rainy season it is traversed by full streams, and there are occasional patches which afford pasturage for herds of bison, droves of wild horses, and other animals. These spots are the resort of the Indians in pursuit of game.
15. Inhabitants.—The Indians possess all the good lands, and little remunerative space is left for the white settler. Before the passage of the territorial act it is probable that there were not within Kansas a hundred white persons. Since then immigration, according to all accounts, has been rapid—too rapid for success. Yet it is possible that lands may be found to give encouragement to settlers; and if so, much anticipated suffering will be avoided. It is not probable, however, that many will seek such a wilderness while so much fine land is open to settlement in Iowa and Missouri as at present.
16. History.—This territory, like Nebraska, was a portion of old French Louisiana, and until lately has been unoccupied, save by the Indians. Events, however, have directed the people to its settlement, and among these may be mentioned the project of a road through it to California, and the desire of the south to reclaim the territory to slavery. The first is a legitimate object of enterprise; but as to the latter there is a diversity of opinion. It was erected into a territory by the same act as Nebraska, and may ultimately enter the Union either as a slave or free state, as the inhabitants may will.
1. Characteristics.—This vast tract is set apart by the United States as the permanent home of certain Indian tribes and nations, who have been removed hither by the General Government.
2. Mountains.—The southeastern corner of this tract is traversed by the Ozark range. From this point westward, the country presents a series of slightly undulating plains, gradually ascending toward the Rocky Mountains.
3. Prairies.—The eastern part of the territory consists of fertile prairies, the rivers being skirted by forests.
4. Rivers.—The Indian Territory is bountifully supplied with water for navigation and irrigation, and especially is this the case in the central and eastern districts. The Arkansas rises in the Rocky Mountains, near the head
Exercises on the Map.—What line is the boundary between Kansas and Nebraska? Boundaries of Nebraska? Where does the Missouri River rise? Where the Yellow Stone? Where the Nebraska? What mountains bound Nebraska on the west? What hills are found in Nebraska? Boundaries of Kansas? What large rivers in Kansas? Where does the Nebraska River rise?
Lesson LX. 1. General remarks? 2. Characteristics of Nebraska? Where situated? 3. Mountains? 4. Valleys? 5. Prairies? 6. Rivers? 7. Inhabitants? 8. History? 9. Characteristics of Kansas? 10. Mountains? 11. Valleys? 12. Rivers? 13. Climate? Soil? Products? 14. What desert is in this territory? 15. Inhabitants? 16. History?
[begin surface 504]waters of the Rio Grande, and the Rio Colorado of the West. It formed the northern boundary of New Mexico before the adjustment of 1850. It affords few facilities for navigation, being generally shallow, and in some parts entirely disappearing during the dry season. Steamboats ascend it from the Mississippi to Fort Gibson, a few miles west of the Arkansas boundary. From the north, this river receives several small streams; from the south, the principal tributary is the Canadian, 1000 miles in length. The Red River rises in New Mexico, and, flowing eastward, forms part of the southern boundary of this territory; and crossing Louisiana, empties into the Mississippi.
5. Animals.—Herds of bison, troops of wild horses, elk, deer, wolves, grizzly bears, with an abundance of smaller quadrupeds, grouse, and sea-fowl, are found in this region. The wild horses are caught by the savages in great numbers, and trained to hunting. This animal, so docile in a domestic state, is one of the most timid and watchful of the brute creation in his wild condition. He is taken with the lasso, and sometimes by a process called creasing, which consists in sending a rifle bullet through a particular part of the neck, which produces a temporary paralysis. The horses of the west, and especially on the prairies, are subject to a kind of panic called stampede. Under its influence, the horses of a whole tribe or traveling party break through every restraint, and, in a phrensy of affright, gallop away, often sinking down and dying from fatigue or terror. Cattle are sometimes affected in a similar way. This is probably a lingering trait of the wild habits of these animals.
6. Soil and Climate.—This territory may be divided into two sections. The western, about 300 miles in width, is mostly a desert, interspersed, however, with plains, or prairies, which give pasturage to the bison and wild horse. The eastern portion, about two hundred miles wide, and five hundred long, is a fine country, containing prairies, crossed by river valleys of great fertility, and abounding in forests. These are thronged with deer and smaller game, being a kind of paradise to the Indian hunter. The southern portion has a climate so mild, that domestic animals find support through the winter without the care of their owners. A small portion of the surface is occupied by mountains and flat hills. The rest is fit for cultivation, and will yield every variety of grain and vegetable common to the more eastern territories in the same latitude. The country is admirably adapted to the raising of stock.
7. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants of this territory are Indians, most of whom have been removed hither from different parts of the United States. The Chickasaws and Choctaws were kindred tribes, in the north of Mississippi and Alabama. They were removed a few years since, and are now blended together. They are in the southeastern part of the territory, and are in a good degree civilized. They have framed houses, well-fenced fields, raise Indian corn and cotton, have grist and saw mills, and have large stocks of horses, cattle, sheep, and swine. They have a written constitution, and a regular government. They receive an annuity from the United States, and missionaries are planted among them. The Creeks, removed from Georgia, are in a fertile district further north, where they have some towns, productive gardens, orchards, and well-tilled fields. They produce Indian corn and garden vegetables, with which they supply the garrison at Fort Gibson. They have a regular government, and there are missionaries among them. The Seminoles, from Florida, were originally of the Creek nation, and, speaking the same language, are located with them. Though averse to labor, they have made some progress. Northeast of the Creeks are the Cherokees, from Georgia. They are much further advanced in civilization than any other of the tribes. They have a fine country, good houses, fine farms, large stocks of cattle, manufactures of salt, wool, cotton, and iron, a printing press, &c. They have a regular government, and standing laws, with courts, sheriffs, and all the machinery necessary to their execution. These, as well as the other stationary tribes, receive an annuity from the United States. Further north are the Osages, Shawnees, Kanzas, Delawares, Kickapoos, and Otoes. To the west are the Sioux and Arrapahoes. Some of these have come hither from their original seats in the east, and others are indigenous to the country. For the most part, they maintain their wild habits, slightly modified by the use of the horse, the rifle, and steel cutlery. They have some superstition, but little religion. Their burial-grounds often consist of spaces marked by circles of skulls. The bodies are placed upon raised platforms, where they are left to decay. Their chief occupation is hunting. Some of them have fixed villages for the summer, and roam about with their tents, in pursuit of game, during
LESSON LXI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Prairies? 4. Rivers? 5. Animals? What of creasing? What of the stampede? 6. Soil and climate? 7. Inhabitants? Name the various tribes. 8. History?
[begin surface 505]the fall and winter. The whole population within this territory is supposed to be from seventy to one hundred thousand.
8. History.—This territory was part of the Louisiana purchase, and, within the last twenty years, has become the home of the Indian tribes removed from their several places of abode in the eastern sections of the United States. The fixed tribes receive annuities from the United States, and are supplied by them with blacksmiths, and other necessary artisans. Missionaries are also established among them. The design of the government has been to remove these Indians from corrupting and destructive contact with the whites, and, by placing them in favorable circumstances, gradually to Christianize and civilize them. This policy has been attended with promising and hopeful success.
1. Characteristics.—This territory was formerly a state or department of Mexico, but has been recently organized as a territory by the United States.
2. Mountains.—The Anahuac Range, stretching northward from the Mexican Cordilleras, passes through the center of this territory. About two hundred miles further east is the Rocky Mountain Range, bearing different names at different points. South of Santa Fé it rises to the hight of seven or eight thousand feet, while to the north it attains an elevation of 12,000. The Spanish Peaks are even more elevated, and are covered with perpetual snow.
3. Valley.—The valley of the Rio del Norte is about twenty miles wide below Santa Fé, being bordered east and west by the mountain chains. The soil is sandy, dry, and requires irrigation.
4. Rivers.—The chief river of this country is the Rio Grande del Norte, or Great River of the North. In common speech, it is called Rio Grande. It takes its rise in that part of the Rocky Mountains called the Green Mountains. It flows southward, and enters the Gulf, forming, in the lower part of its course, the boundary between Mexico and the United States. The whole length of this river, including its windings, is 2000 miles. Its source is in the perpetual glaciers of the north, while its mouth nearly reaches the tropical regions. Its descent is great, and the upper part of its course rapid. It is here useful for irrigation, but is unfit for navigation. It is supposed that, by slight improvements, steamboats may ascend 700 miles to the Spanish town of Loredo. The Puerco is a large tributary of the Rio Grande, rising in the Rocky Mountains. The Gila flows west into the Gulf of California.
5. Lakes.—About 100 miles southeast of Santa Fé, on the high table-land east of the Rio Grande, are several salt lakes, which furnish the country with salt. Large caravans come for this article from Santa Fé during the dry season.
6. Animals.—Buffaloes, wild horses, and deer are found on the table-lands east of the Rocky Mountains. The deer, bear, grizzly bear, panther, and wolf are found in the mountain regions.
7. Minerals.—This country is rich in gold, copper, iron, silver, coal, gypsum, selenite, and salt. There are no mines extensively wrought. Gold and copper are obtained to some extent. The selenite is used instead of window-glass. Considerable gold has been obtained from this country in former times, and there is little doubt that further examination will disclose rich mines of this precious metal.
8. Climate.—The higher mountains are covered with perpetual snow; the winters, at the north, are long and severe. At Santa Fé, ice and snow are common, but the Rio Grande is never frozen sufficiently for the passage of horses. The sky is generally clear, and the atmosphere dry, except during the rainy season from July to October. The country is generally very healthy.
9. Soil.—The valley of the Rio Grande is sandy, but produces two crops in a year. Its dryness makes it necessary to employ irrigation. A large portion of the surface of the territory is occupied by mountains and ridges, leaving the valleys and table-lands only for cultivation.
10. Face of the Country.—The general aspect of New Mexico is that of a region of mountains of various elevations, inclosing the valley of the Rio Grande. There
Exercises on the Map (p. 122.)—Boundaries of New Mexico? Extent? Population? Describe the Puerco River. Rio Grande. What mountains cross this territory from north to south? What mountains at the north? What in the west? Capital of New Mexico? Where is Albuquerque? Great American Desert?
LESSON LXII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Animals? 7. Minerals? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Face of the country? 11. Agriculture
[begin surface 506]are some smaller valleys along the lesser streams, and a few spaces of elevated table-land. East of the mountains there are high prairies and plains, and a portion of the Great American Desert. The southern part of California, attached to this territory in 1850, has been very little explored.
11. Agriculture and Manufactures.—Agriculture is carried on in a primitive way, mostly by the hoe, and a rough plow entirely of wood. Irrigation, rendered necessary by the dryness of the soil and climate, is effected by damming the streams, and conducting the water into ditches which intersect and surround the cultivated land. This work is performed by the inhabitants of towns and villages, who unite for the purpose, and allot to the several proprietors their portion of the water. The fields are without fences, the flocks being attended by herdsmen. The haciendas are large estates held by rich proprietors, who employ a great number of persons kept in a state of servitude, called peonage. Large flocks of horses, mules, cattle, sheep, and goats, of diminutive but prolific breeds, are raised. These are frequently stolen by the prowling Indians. There are immense tracts of unoccupied land, too arid or mountainous for cultivation, but excellent for the raising of stock. Indian corn is the principal grain; wheat and garden vegetables are extensively produced; vineyards thrive in some parts. There are considerable domestic manufactures.
12. Political Divisions.—New Mexico is divided into counties as follows: Table listing the population (in 1850) of the following counties of New Mexico: Bernalillo, Rio Ariba, Santa Anna, Santa Fé, San Miguel, Taos, and Valencia. Seven-eighths of the inhabitants are Indians, with some Creoles, or mestizoes; a few are native Spaniards; and there is a considerable number of Americans. The Indians are called Pueblos, or Village Indians, to distinguish them from the wild tribes. They live in isolated villages, cultivate the soil, and raise some stock. They are poor, frugal, and sober, with the sad and ruminating aspect that marks the race. Their villages are built with regularity. In some cases, a single large house, with several stories, serves for a whole village. Their doors are in the roofs, and are reached by ladders Village of the Camanches. drawn up at night. The bow, arrow, and lance, and sometimes a gun, constitute their weapons. The more civilized inhabitants resemble the Mexicans. The higher classes adopt American fashions. Females wear the reboso, which is a small shawl, coquettishly worn upon the head. Both sexes indulge in the cigarito, the siesta after dinner, the game of monte, and the fandango. To the northeast are the Camanches, extending into Texas. They are a wild, predatory race, having swift horses, and often making incursions into the neighboring regions for plunder.
13. Towns. Santa Fé, the capital, is about twelve miles east of the Rio Grande, including the adjacent villages. It contains nearly 7000 inhabitants. It has long been noted as the dépôt of the trading caravans, which have been accustomed to depart from Missouri, cross the Indian Territory, and traverse the Great American Desert. These caravans sometimes consist of two or three hundred persons. They use horses and mules, but it is proposed to employ camels, as they can subsist a long time without water, which is scarce in the desert. The other towns are small. Albuquerque, Valverde, and Paso del Norte, are the principal; the latter being in a region noted for its vineyards.
14. Antiquities.—Near the salt lakes already described are the ruins of an ancient Spanish mining town, probably built on the site of a still more ancient Indian city. It is supposed to have been destroyed in 1680, but its history is involved in mystery.
15. History.—This region was discovered by some Spanish adventurers in 1581. In 1594 the country was colonized, and the Indians were conquered and reduced to slavery. Towns were built, and rich mines wrought; but in 1680 the Indians united, and in a general insurrection, drove the Spaniards from the country. A war of ten years ensued, when the Spanish ascendency was recovered. The country continued under the Spanish dominion till the independence of Mexico, in 1821. Of this it became a state, or department, under the title of New Mexico, until it was taken by a small American force under General Kearney, August 18, 1846. In the peace between the United States and Mexico, in 1848, it was confirmed to the former. In 1850, it received a territorial government.
and Manufactures? What is peonage? 12. Political Divisions? 13. Towns? 14. Antiquities? 15. History?
[begin surface 507]
Area, sq. m. | Popula. | |
California, | 188,891 | 224,435 |
Utah, | 187,923 | 18,206 |
New Mexico, | 210,774 | 61,547 |
Area, sq. m. | Popula. | |
Mesilla, (Arizonia) | 76,000 | 4,000 |
Oregon, | 227,642 | 34,724 |
Washington, | 113,821 | 4,000 |
1. Characteristics.—To the four divisions of the United States, called Eastern, Middle, Southern, and Western, we now add a fifth division, called the Pacific Region, which lies between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.
2. Mountains.—The Rocky Mountains, broken into various ranges, extend along the western borders of this territory. The Sierra Nevada range, passing under different names, extends along the coast, at a distance of one to two hundred miles.
3. Valleys, Deserts, &c.—The Pacific region greatly resembles some portions of Asia. We have here a Great Salt Lake, resembling the Caspian; elevated table-lands, surrounded by mountains, like those of Tartary; and plains
Exercises on Map of the Pacific Region.—Boundaries of the State of California? Extent? Population? What mountain ranges extend north and south through this state? Boundaries of Utah? Extent? Population? What great lake in the north? What mountains near the center? Describe the Colorado; the Gila. Boundaries of Oregon? Extent? Population? Where are the Cascade Mountains? Blue Mountains? Where is Mount St. Helens? Describe the Columbia River. Boundaries of Washington?
17 [begin surface 508]and deserts broken by mountain ridges, like those of Persia. There are three extensive valleys: the Great Basin, in the center; the Valley of the Colorado, at the south; and the Valley of the Columbia, at the north. There are many smaller ones, among which is that of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, 500 miles in length. In general, there is a striking aspect of irregularity, contrast, and grandeur about the Pacific slope. It embraces the loftiest mountain peaks in the United States, their tops crowned with perpetual snow, looking down upon deserts scorched by the summer sun; volcanic fires bursting from cones of eternal ice; valleys of unbounded fertility, and large spaces of desolate rock, gravel, or sand; mighty rivers of fresh water finding their way to the ocean; salt lakes imprisoned between rocky, barren, and impassable wastes; with ridges of everlasting sterility, yet sparkling with gold, quicksilver, and other minerals. A most interesting feature of the country is, that it has a coast of 1000 miles on the Pacific, and thus opens to our commerce the boundless shores of that great Ocean.
4. Rivers.—The Colorado and Columbia, each about 1500 miles long, are the great streams of this region.
5. Divisions.—The Pacific region includes the Territories of Utah and Oregon and the State of California.
6. Inhabitants.—The whole white population of this region, probably, does not exceed 250,000. There is a great number of Indian tribes scattered over the territory, most of them in a savage state. Their population is, probably, much less than that of the whites.
7. History.—Utah and California constitute the greater part of what the Spaniards called Alta or Upper California, and which came to the United States during the late Mexican war. Oregon was claimed by us as part of the Louisiana purchase; but our right to it rested also upon the grounds of previous discovery.
1. Characteristics.—This territory was formerly a part of California, and has been lately settled by the Mormons.
2. Mountains.—The Rocky Mountains bound this territory on the northern part of the eastern line, separating it from Nebraska territory; and the Sierra Nevada mountains separate it from the state of California on the northern part of the western line. These mountains are here of sufficient elevation to be perpetually crowned with snow. Two ranges of mountains cross this territory in a northeasterly and southwesterly direction, but they are little known. The eastern range is called Wahsatch River Mountains, and the western Humboldt River Mountains.
3. Valley.—A remarkable feature of this territory is a vast extent of country called the Great Basin. It consists of an elevated valley, nearly 2000 miles in circuit. The southern portion of it is a dry, sandy desert, thinly inhabited by savages. It has never been explored or fully described by any traveler. It is 4000 or 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and shut in by mountains on all sides. The Wahsatch and Humboldt mountains cross it in two ranges, attaining an elevation of 5000 feet above the level of the country. Their lower sides are covered with forests. Numerous small streams have their origin in the mountains around and within the basin, which descend and are lost in the desert, or received into small lakes. There are also in this wide valley some spots capable of cultivation. To the east and north around the Great Salt Lake is a territory of great beauty and fertility; to the west it is more sterile.
4. Rivers.—The chief river in this region is the Rio Colorado, which rises in Oregon among the Rocky Mountains, bearing the name of the Green river till its union with the Jaquesila, where the combined streams take the name of Colorado. The thirty-seventh parallel of north latitude forms the southern boundary of the territory, and separates Utah from New Mexico.
5. Lakes.—The Great Salt Lake is a remarkable feature of this region. Its shape is irregular, and it incloses numerous islands. It is supposed to be about 70 miles in length. It is intensely salt, and so shallow as to afford small facilities for navigation. The western shore consists of level plains of deep soft mud, traversed by rills of salt and sulphur water. These plains are destitute of vegetation, except small shrubs, which are covered with particles of salt, shining in the sun; curious optical illusions are here presented, arising from mirage, which distorts objects in a most grotesque manner. Fresh water and grass are here to be seen only once in the space of 100 miles. In one place is a field of solid salt, incrusted upon the mud, so as to bear up mules, like ice. The lake has no outlet. The Utah River, or Jordan, as the Mormons call it, is a small stream connecting Utah Lake with the Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake is of fresh water, 35 miles long, and receives numerous bold fresh-water streams from the mountains, though a large formation of rock-salt is found imbedded in clay on its southeastern borders. These lakes are about 4000 feet above the level of the sea, and drain an area of 12,000 square miles. A great part of the region around the lakes in dry seasons is incrusted with salt. Utah Lake, as well as the streams that flow into it, abound in fish, which furnish a large part of the food of the Utah Indians. It appears that there are numerous small lakes scattered over the territory of Utah, but we have no exact account of them.
6. Vegetable Products.—We are too little acquainted with this region to give a particular account of its vegetable productions. In general, they are similar to those of the eastern country in the same latitudes.
7. Animals.—It is understood that there is abundance of game in this country, consisting of deer, bears, and smaller quadrupeds, with numerous water-fowl.
8. Climate.—We have no accurate report of the climate over the whole of this territory. In the region of the Great Lake, the winters are long and severe. In lat. 40° it is colder than at Philadelphia. The winter begins in November; snow falls upon the plains to the depth of several inches as late as March. In the mountainous regions, a little further north, snow accumulates to the depth of fifty feet during the winter!
9. Face of the Country.—This presents three regions; first, the Great Basin already described, containing a desert of burning sand, snow-capped mountains belted with verdure at the base, and a few fertile spots flanking the rivers; second, the high broken table-lands, and mountainous ridges in the center; and, third, the great
LESSON LXIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys and Deserts? 4. Rivers? 5. Divisions? 6. Inhabitants? 7 History?
LESSON LXIV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? Rivers? 5. Lakes? What of the Great Salt Lake? Utah Lake? 6. Vegetable products? 7. Animals? 8. Climate?
valley of the streams which forms the Colorado. The southern part of the territory is a rugged plain.
10. Divisions.—Utah is divided into counties, as follows: Table listing the populations (in 1853) of the following counties in Utah: Salt Lake City, Salt Lake, Utah, Juab, San Pete, Millard, Iron, Toole, Davis, and Weber. —the total population in 1850 was 11,380.
11. Inhabitants.—This territory is inhabited by small bands of Indians, most of whom obtain a poor subsistence by hunting and fishing. The chief tribe is that of the Utahs in the northeast, who have given name to the territory. The white inhabitants consist chiefly of the Mormons, who removed hither in 1848. This sect had its origin in 1830, in one Joe Smith, of Palmyra, New York. He pretended to have found some gold plates with inscriptions, which he translated by miraculous aid. Thus was produced the Book of Mormon, which is the Bible of the sect. They built a temple at Kirtland, in Ohio, but removed to Michigan, afterwards to Missouri, and then to Illinois, being driven from these places by the inhabitants. In the latter state they had a city called Nauvoo, with a temple of immense extent, and a population of 10,000 people, gathered from Europe and America. Being persecuted here, they set out for Oregon and California; but being attracted by the country around the Great Lake, they settled there, and in 1850 numbered nearly 12,000. They are building a city, twelve miles in circumference, between the two lakes. They are erecting a vast temple of stone. The houses are of brick. This place has already 6,000 inhabitants. There are several settlements along the river Jordan. They have commenced agriculture, and raise 75 bushels of wheat to the acre. Potatoes and the smaller grains flourish; but the climate is too cold for Indian corn. There is little rain, and irrigation is required. They have numerous flour and saw mills in operation, wrought by the mountain streams. In some places there is plenty of choice timber. The climate is extremely healthy. In 1850, Congress erected the territory into a separate government. All sects are tolerated. They are said to be a moral, industrious, and thriving people. The sect is supposed to number 100,000, in different parts of America and Europe; and as the city of the Great Salt Lake is the Jerusalem, or Mecca, of the entire body, it is likely to be rapidly increased by the emigration of its members hither. The route from the Western States to Oregon and California, by way of the South Pass, runs about 60 miles north of the Mormon city; but a route can be taken which leads somewhat nearer to that place. The people supply fresh mules, oxen, and provisions to the emigrants. The road from Independence to the western side of the Rocky Mountains is good, and immense numbers have passed over it. The large parties of emigrants usually travel about 15 miles a day. For 500 miles along the prairie country, buffalo meat can be obtained in abundance. The Mormons have established ferries over the Platte and Green rivers.
12. History.—The territory of Utah formed a part of Upper California, which came into our possession during the late war with Mexico. At first it was called Deseret, but this name was changed for Utah. The territorial government was established in 1850.
1. Characteristics.—This is a new state, lying on the Pacific Ocean, and is celebrated for its gold mines.
2. Mountains.—The great mountain feature of this region is the Sierra Nevada, signifying Snowy Mountains, their tops being always crowned with snow. It consists of several nearly parallel ridges, and forms part of the great chain which rises in the peninsula of California, and extends along the coast to Russian America—a distance of 3000 miles. It is remarkable for its length, its proximity and parallelism to the sea-coast, its great elevation—often more lofty than the Rocky Mountains—and its many volcanic peaks reaching into the region of perpetual snow. Rising singly, like pyramids from heavily timbered plateaux, to the hight of from fourteen to seventeen thousand feet above the sea, it has a character distinguished from every other portion of the United States. The range in this quarter being about 150 miles from the ocean, receives the warm winds charged with vapor, which, sweeping across the Pacific Ocean, precipitate their accumulated moisture in fertilizing rains and snows upon its western flank, and leave cold and dry winds to pass on to the east. Hence the characteristic differences of the two regions—mildness, fertility, and a superb vegetable kingdom on the western side, with comparative barrenness and cold on the eastern.
3. Valleys.—The country through which the Sacramento and San Joaquin flow, may be considered as one valley, 500 miles long, and from twenty to sixty wide. The Sacramento Valley is divided into Upper and Lower. This division is strongly marked. The upper valley is 100 miles long, heavily timbered, and, rising 1000 feet above the lower valley, has a cold climate. It contains strips of arable land, and is deemed capable of settlement. At the head of the lower valley is Shaste Peak, rising, at the forks of the river, to the hight of 14,000 feet, its summit glittering with snow, and visible, down the valley, a distance of 140 miles. The river here descends, in rapids, 2000 feet in twenty miles. The lower valley consists of rolling land rising gradually at the mountain bases. In this valley the principal settlements have been made, and here is the great center of the gold region. The Valley of the San Joaquin is about 250 miles long, and sixty broad. It presents a variety of soil, the eastern side being exceedingly fertile, and well-wooded with oaks and other trees. Here are many spots highly attractive for their rich soil and scenic beauty.
4. Rivers.—The chief rivers of this state are the Sacramento and the San Joaquin. The former rises in the mountainous region of the north, and flows southward three hundred miles. The latter rises in the mountains of the south, and flows northward about the same distance, where it meets the Sacramento, and they enter the Bay of Suisun together. They receive numerous streams from the mountains, some of which are navigable for a short distance. The principal tributaries of the Sacramento are as follows:—The American River, with its several forks, entering above Sacramento City; Feather River, of which the Bear and Yuba are branches; and the Butte, Chico, Deer, Mill, and Antelope. All these enter the Sacramento from the east. The Cosumnes, Mokelumnes, Calaberas, Stanislaus, Tuolumnes, and Mariposa enter the San Joaquin from the east.
9. Face of the country? 10. Population? 11. Inhabitants? 12. History?
LESSON LXV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys?
[begin surface 510]According to the "State Register," an invaluable work recently issued from the press, California contains 507,067 inhabitants.
It is stated the present population of California, based on the assessors' reports, is 597,000. Of this number 332,250 are Americans, 65,500 Indians, 38,400 Chinese, 15,000 French, 15,000 Mexicans, 10,000 Germans, 10,000 Irish, 2,000 English and 4,000 negroes. This estimate, as far as the European population is concerned, is certainly far below their actual number.
5. Lakes.—There are numerous small lakes, some of which disappear during the dry season. The Tule Lakes, receiving the sources of the San Joaquin, appear to be the most considerable. The Gold Lake, spoken of as the site of rich gold mines, is rather the dry bed of a former lake than one existing at present.
6. Bays, Harbors, Shores, &c.—This state extends along the Pacific coast, a distance of nearly 600 miles—Conception at the south, and Mendocino at the north, are the two principal capes. Near the southern shore is the small group of the Santa Barbara Islands. The bay of San Francisco is thirty-five miles wide, and seventy long. Its entrance is between a gap in the mountains, which come down in bold precipices to the shore. It is divided by straits and projecting points into three parts, the two northern being called San Pablo and Suisun Bays. On entering, it seems like a lake of deep water, extending north and south between parallel ranges of mountains. A few elevated rocky islands diversify its surface. Immediately around the shores are rolling lands, broken by hills, and spotted with wooded ranges. Behind this space are the mountain peaks, some of them rising to the hight of 4000 feet. At the southern point is San José, the ancient capital. On a headland projecting eastward, on the southern side of the entrance to the bay, is the city of San Francisco. Its harbor is one of the finest in the world—capable of receiving the navy of an empire. Taken in connection with the fertile and beautiful bay around, and the boundless Pacific, it is one of the most important and interesting commercial points in the world. The other principal bay on this coast is that of Monterey.
7. Vegetable Products.—These appear to be greatly diversified. In the valley of the Sacramento and the Joaquin there are forests of oak and other deciduous trees. Cypress and other evergreens are described as existing in various parts. It appears that the country naturally yields the products common to this latitude in the more eastern portions of the United States.
8. Animals.—Bears, deer, and panthers are mentioned as belonging to this country. There is a great variety of water-fowl along the coast.
9. Minerals.—California is chiefly renowned for its mineral treasures. The gold region is on the eastern side of the valley of the Sacramento. The gold was first discovered here by a mechanic, named James W. Marshall, in 1848. This led to an examination by several Mormon laborers, and the result was a discovery of grains of gold in the soil, resembling, in form, the small scales of fishes. The story was rapidly spread over Europe and America, and vast numbers rushed to the spot. San Francisco was suddenly swelled to a large town, and the mountain slopes and ravines along the Sacramento valley were thronged with thousands of eager diggers in the soil. Not only grains of the precious metal were discovered, but pieces of all sizes, either pure or blent with quartz, sometimes weighing six or eight pounds, and valued at several thousand dollars. Vessels and steamboats crowded up the rivers, tents were pitched, villages and towns sprung up, and the whole country around became the theater of intense excitement and activity. Further explorations took place; gold was found in other localities, leading to the belief that it exists abundantly in various places along the Sierra Nevada, from
4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Bays? 7. Vegetable Products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10.Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Agriculture?
[begin surface 513]the Rio Gila to the Columbia. We even hear of a gold lake and a gold mountain, and the stories told of them are not mere fictions. Quicksilver mines have also been discovered, and are now actively wrought. Iron is known to exist, and it is probable that we have only begun to comprehend the mineral resources of this wonderful region. It is supposed that the annual product of the gold mines will fall little short of forty or fifty millions of dollars!
10. Climate.—Summer and winter, in our sense of the terms, are hardly applicable to this country. The seasons are not marked as hot and cold, but as wet and dry. The dry season comprises what we call summer, and the wet season what we call winter. In the southern parts, the drought renders irrigation necessary. This, however, enables the farmer to produce a succession of crops throughout the year. During the dry or summer months, vegetation is parched; during the wet or winter months, it revives. In sheltered valleys, the trees and grass retain their verdure, and the flowers are in bloom throughout the year. The nights are cool, even when the days are hot. An even mildness of temperature characterizes the climate, though heavy snows fall in the highlands of the north. It is very healthy, without prevailing diseases. In all its physical aspects, California bears a resemblance to Italy.
11. Soil.—This is greatly diversified, the mountain peaks being rugged and rocky. Their lower slopes are generally of a light soil, and susceptible of cultivation. The narrow valleys present every variety, from moderate to extreme richness of soil.
12. Agriculture.—There are some farms occupied by the old Spanish settlers. These have been chiefly devoted to the raising of stock. Cattle and horses were formerly so abundant as to be killed for their hides. Some of the recent settlers have devoted themselves to agriculture. The people are, however, obliged to depend chiefly upon supplies sent from the United States. Grain is largely shipped from Chili, and some other places along the western coast.
13. Mining.—The absorbing occupation is that of mining. The gold is dug with rockers, pickaxes, hoes, spades, knives, iron bars, &c. Steam-engines are at work, rivers are turned from their beds, and mountains perforated through their bowels. The dust is obtained by washing or sifting the sands. The coarse pieces are taken from the crevices of rocks, in the dry beds of torrents, and the strata of slate standing vertically in the streams. It is found along the Sacramento and its tributaries—the Feather, Bear, Yuba, &c.; along the San Joaquin and its tributaries—the Cosumnes and Stanislaus. It has been found at Bodega, on the sea-coast, and further south, at various places in the mountains, to the Gila. It has also been discovered further north—even in Oregon. The region of the Yuba, however, is considered the richest in gold at the present time.
14. Manufactures.—A great variety of manufactures of necessary articles have suddenly sprung up in this region. These are likely to increase with the rapid augmentation of the population, and the wants of the country.
15. Commerce.—Gold is the chief article of export. The greater part is sent to the United States, but it is distributed also to Mexico, South America, England, the Sandwich Islands, and China, there being gold-diggers, merchants, adventurers, and speculators from all these, as well as many other countries. Nearly all the necessaries of life, from houses down to the commonest implements, are imported. Entire dwellings, both from' Europe and various parts of America, have been shipped hither.
16. Inhabitants.—It is probable that more than four-fifths of the people of California are emigrants from the United States. There are a few thousand of the old Spanish settlers in the old towns, some Indians, with numerous adventurers from Mexico, South America, China, and all the prominent countries of Europe. It is impossible to conceive a more varied population, drawn suddenly together by a common impulse, and acting under the same absorbing sentiment. The American character, however, predominates, and is rapidly melting society into a common mass.
Map of San Francisco and surrounding area. Plan of San Francisco and Vicinity.17. Towns.—San Francisco, containing only a few hundreds of people five years since, now numbers twenty-five thousand inhabitants. It has streets, squares, hotels, banks, and all the attributes of a commercial mart. Six hundred vessels are to be seen in its harbor. Lines of steamers connect it with the eastern world, and another line is projected to establish communication with China, and other parts of the Asiatic coast. No other spot on the globe has ever opened so sudden and so wide a prospect of important events as this. For the present, the city presents a striking aspect. People of all countries, costumes, and languages throng its streets. Here is to be seen alike the calculating merchant, the eager gold-hunter, the sly speculator, the missionary, and the gambler, with the reporter, pen in hand, to tell the world their story. The other large towns in this state are San Diego, Los Angelos, Santa Barbara, San Miguel, and Monterey, all old Spanish settlements on the coast. Vallejo will be one of the finest cities of America. Sacramento City, the new capital, is on the east side of the river Sacramento, near the junction of the American with that river, about 120 miles northeast of San Francisco. It has grown up rapidly, and has banks, hotels, streets, &c. It is, next to San Francisco, the most populous town in California. Steamboats run between here and that city, daily. It was the scene of a terrible fire in the year 1850. New York is a new settlement, opposite the entrance of the rivers Sacramento and San
13. Mining? 14. Manufactures? 15. Commerce? 16. Inhabitants? 17. Towns? Capital of California? 18. History?
[begin surface 514]Joaquin into Suisun Bay. Stockton is a growing town on the east side of the San Joaquin, a few miles north of the Stanislaus. Sonoma and St. Louis are settlements on a small stream flowing into San Pablo Bay. New Helvetia lies a few miles northeast of Sacramento. There are a fort and United States troops at this place. Fremont is on the south side of the Sacramento, opposite the mouth of the Feather River. Vernon is a thriving place on the Feather River, about twenty miles northeast of Sacramento. Marysville is a thriving village, at the junction of the Yuba with the Feather River, eighty miles northeast of Sacramento. Small steamboats come up to this place. Here is a rendezvous for miners, and here may be seen all the articles necessary for their support and equipment—tents, mining tools, ready-made clothing, spirits, beef, pork, flour, &c. From this point the miners proceed on foot, their baggage being carried by mules. Rose's Bar, twenty-five miles above Marysville, is on the Yuba, and here are rich diggings. The country is mountainous—the banks of the rivers below, to Suisun Bay, being low and waving, with mountain ranges at a distance. Foster's Bar, thirty miles higher up the river; Goodwin's Bar, thirty miles further; and Downieville, eight miles beyond—making 250 miles northeast of San Francisco—are all settlements at favorable points for mining. Downieville is a considerable village, and on the ridges and ravines around several thousand miners are at work, from May to August—the dry season. The snows sometimes rest on the mountains here, and obstruct the diggings till June. There are many other towns and villages springing up. The Mariposa district is noted for its gold mixed with quartz.
18. History—The present state of California occupies but a small portion of the whole region called California, under the Spaniards. Some missions and trading posts were early established here, but, in general, it may be remarked that this territory received little attention from the Spanish government, for a long period after their acquisition of the country by the conquests of Cortez in 1523. A few settlements were made upon the coast during the eighteenth century. Some of these grew into small commercial ports, and a few farmers settled here and there in the interior, especially upon the plains at the south, toward the Colorado. In 1846, the country was taken possession of by the United States forces, and, at the close of the Mexican war, in 1848, it was confirmed to the United States. Immediately after the discovery of the gold mines in that year, the population increased with unexampled rapidity. The inhabitants soon discovered the necessity of regular government. In 1849, a convention assembled, which formed a constitution, whose admirable provisions excited the applause of the civilized world. This was immediately ratified by the people, and in 1850 California was admitted as a state into the Federal Union.
1. Characteristics.—These territories occupy the northwestern corner of the Union, and lie between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.
2. Mountains.—The Rocky Mountains, separating these territories from that of Nebraska, here consist of several parallel ridges, with chains shooting off east and west, with lofty plains at their base. A range less elevated, called the Blue Mountains, extends north and south nearly through the center of the territory. The Sierra Nevada range here takes the name of Cascade Mountains. These are from 100 to 150 miles from the Pacific, their tops rising in regular cones to the hight of 13,000 or 14,000 feet.
3. Valleys.—The principal valley is that of the Columbia. The various head streams and tributaries pass through rather rugged regions, but are occasionally bordered by narrow, fertile plains.
4. Rivers.—The principal river of the region, and the largest that enters into the Pacific, is the Columbia. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, at a short distance from the source of the Missouri. Its upper course is rapid, and frequently broken by falls. Its whole length is 1500 miles. It is navigable 120 miles for vessels of twelve feet draught, though obstructed by numerous sand-bars. Twenty miles from its mouth, its width is greatly increased. The Lewis River, its main tributary, also rises in the Rocky Mountains, and flowing in a very circuitous route to the northwest, empties into the Columbia. It affords little facility for navigation, on account of its frequent rapids. Another branch of the Columbia rises further north, in the British Territory, about latitude 50°. The Willamette is a considerable stream, rising in the Cascade Mountains; flowing northward, it empties into the Columbia. This river has many other tributaries, but none of great extent.
5. Lakes.—There are many small lakes, especially in the mountains, connected with the head-waters of the rivers. There are also small sheets of water spread over the country, which greatly add to its picturesque beauty.
6. Shores, Harbors, &c.—At the southwestern corner of the territory is Cape Blanco, and at the northwestern, Cape Flattery. Gray's Harbor is small, but it admits vessels of ten feet draught. The entrance to the Columbia is obstructed by sand-bars, and these are said to be increasing. The Clatsop, or South Channel, has lately been explored, and promises a good entrance. There are several fine harbors within the Straits of Juan de Fuca. The tide has here a rise and fall of eighteen feet. The whole Pacific line of coast measures nearly 400 miles.
7. Vegetable Products.—These do not appear to differ materially from those in corresponding latitudes, to the east. The forests, consisting of the various deciduous trees, rise to a great elevation, and particular trees attain the hight of 200 feet. Pines, furs, spruce, arbor-vitæ, and cedar are among the evergreens. The oak, ash, poplar, maple, willow, and cherry are mentioned among the common forest trees. Thickets of hazel, roses, &c, abound.
8. Animals.—There is abundance of game, such as the elk, deer, antelope, black and grizzly bear, wolves, foxes, muskrats, martins, beavers, &c. On the rolling prairies of the middle section there is no game. In the eastern part, the buffalo is met with. The fur-bearing animals are rapidly diminishing, being slaughtered by the hunters and trappers. In the spring and autumn, immense flocks of wild-fowl are seen upon the rivers and along the shores. Fishes abound in the rivers and sounds, including the salmon, salmon-trout, sturgeon, cod, carp, sole, flounders, perch, herring, lamprey-eels, with crabs, clams, oysters, muscles, &c. The Indians subsist almost wholly upon fish. Whales are found along the coast, and the Indians often capture them at the mouth of the Straits of Juan de Fuca.
LESSON LXVI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3 Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Shores, harbors, &c.?
9. Minerals.—The mineral resources of this country are little known. Gold has recently been found, and it is expected that further investigation will disclose rich mines of this mineral.
10. Climate.—In general, the climate is several degrees milder than in the same latitudes upon the Atlantic. In the eastern section, it is variable; a single day will sometimes present the temperature of the four seasons. In the middle section, the atmosphere is drier in the summer and colder in the winter than in the western section. No dews fall. This region is unfit for cultivation, but is well adapted for grazing. The western section, between the Pacific and the mountains, is much milder than the others. It does not experience the extremes of heat or cold, and is temperate throughout the year. The whole Territory of Oregon is in a high degree salubrious. The winter here lasts from December to February. Snow seldom continues over three days, along the coast.
11. Soil.—This is greatly diversified. The western section may be generally regarded as fertile, presenting both uplands and prairies, well adapted to grain and fruits. The middle section has a lighter soil. It is generally a rolling prairie of sandy loam, with a few narrow, rich valleys. The eastern section is a rocky and broken region; the mountain peaks often preserve the snow throughout the year. There are occasional patches of timber; but in general it is a barren, chilly region, much of the soil being impregnated with salts.
12. Agriculture.—This is the chief employment of the American settlers. Wheat, rye, oats, barley, garden vegetables, apples, and pears are raised with facility. Indian corn and peaches do not thrive so well. Most of the farms are in the western section.
13. Manufactures.—These are in their infancy, but there are numerous saw and corn mills.
14. Commerce.—This is chiefly confined to the export of furs. Some bread-stuffs are sent to California. Considerable quantities of foreign merchandise are received from the Atlantic portion of the United States.
15. Hunting.—For a long period this region was only resorted to for obtaining furs from the Indians. In 1811, the Pacific Fur Company established a post at the mouth of the Columbia, called Astoria. Soon after, the Hudson's Bay Company established posts at some points higher up the river. These are continued, and this company have almost a monopoly of the fur trade.
16. Divisions.—These territories were divided in 1853, and now constitute the territories of Oregon and Washington, the two being divided by the Columbia River and the 46th parallel of latitude. The counties of Oregon in 1853 were as follows: This table lists the counties of Oregon along with their populations in 1853. —in 1850 the population was only 12,093.
17. The territory of Washington in 1850 had 1201 inhabitants, but the population in 1853 amounted to at least 4000 souls. Olympia is the capital. The Indians are supposed to number 20,000. The chief tribes are the Flat Heads, Wallawallas, Nez Percés, Trading with Indians on the Coast of Oregon. Shoshonees, Cayuses, Boonacks, Moleles, and Umpquas They derive their subsistence chiefly from the fisheries. They take large numbers of wild animals, and exchange their furs and peltries with the whites. There are several missionary establishments, which have had some success in Christianizing the Indians.
18. Towns.—Fort Vancouver, on the north bank of the Columbia, ninety miles from the sea, is the principal seat of the British fur trade. It incloses a space thirty-seven by eighteen rods, and is strongly stockaded. Connected with it are fine farms, gardens, mills, schools, and mechanics' shops. Astoria, eight miles from the Columbia, has only two buildings. Fort Wallawalla, on the south side of the Columbia, and Colville, on the south side of Clarke's River, are British trading posts, with villages attached. There are American settlements on the Willamette, and in other parts. Oregon City is on this river, forty miles above the Columbia. It is a thriving village, with great water-power from the falls of the river, and other local advantages. Salem is the capital of Oregon.
19. History.—In May, 1792, Captain Robert Gray, in the ship Columbia, of Boston, discovered and entered the Columbia River, giving it the name of his vessel. Through this discovery the existence of the Columbia was first established. In 1804–5, Lewis and Clarke, under the direction of our government, explored the country from the mouth to the source of the Columbia. From 1808, the country was occupied by one or more of our fur companies. On these and other grounds, the United States claimed the territory up to the latitude of 54° 40´. As the British traders had settled in the territory, the British government set up a rival claim, which caused a serious and threatening dispute. This was happily adjusted by treaty, in 1846, making the line of 49° our northern boundary. The settlers organized a provisional government, but this was superseded by an act of Congress in 1849, which established a regular territorial government over the country. In 1853 the territory was divided.
7. Vegetable products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Agriculture? 13. Manufactures? 14. Commerce? 15. Hunting? 16. Divisions? 17. Washington Territory? 18. Towns? 19. History?
1. Territory of the United States.—The territory of the United States, which is now estimated at three million two hundred thousand square miles, has been derived from various sources. The thirteen English colonies which united in the Revolutionary war, held nearly the same territories which they now possess, as states. Besides these, Virginia laid claim, by virtue of her charter, to an undefined tract to the west, including Kentucky, and what was afterward called the Northwestern Territory—embracing Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin. These latter claims she ceded to the United States in 1787, making a small reservation of lands in Ohio, for the payment of certain state debts. Tennessee was originally a part of North Carolina. Alabama was mostly included in the original patent of Georgia. Maine was a part of the State of Massachusetts. Thus the whole of the present territory of the United States east of the river Mississippi, excepting only the State of Florida and the whole Gulf coast came to us as the possessions of the original thirteen English colonies. Florida and part of Alabama and Mississippi were ceded to us by Spain in 1819, as compensation for spoliations upon our commerce. The Louisiana purchase, made in 1803, gave us the whole tract lying between the Mississippi River and the Rocky Mountains, including the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, and Iowa, with the contiguous territories of Minnesota, Nebraska and Kansas, and the Indian. Texas was obtained by the annexation treaty of 1845; Oregon, by discovery and occupation; California, Utah, and New Mexico, by treaty with Mexico, in 1848.
2. Progress of the United States.—The ratio of increase, hitherto, seems to show that our population doubles once in 25 years, as elsewhere stated. In 1790, we had 3,929,827 inhab.; in 1800, 5,305,941; in 1810, 7,239,814; in 1820, 9,638,191; in 1830, 12,866,020; in 1840, 17,062,566. The census of 1850 shows a population of 23,194,876, and we shall probably continue an equal increase, as emigration and the general causes of progress in population were never more active than at present. Taking these facts as the basis of calculation, it seems probable that the population of the United States will reach a hundred millions before the close of the present century. "Our present population," says Mr. Rantoul, in his Concord oration, 1850, "is nine times that of the day of the Concord fight, April 18, 1775, and a continuance of the same ratio for the same period, to the year 1925, will extend the blessings of the Union over more than 200,000,000 souls. Our present wealth is more than forty times that of the colonies seventy-five years ago. The annual income of the nation is at least twenty-five times as great as it was then. Of the great element of power over physical nature, coal, our production is now greater than that of the world seventy-five years ago. Of iron, the chief instrument with which man subdues nature to his purposes, our product is greater than that of all the world seventy-five years ago. Of gold, the other main sinew of war, and the negotiator of the exchanges of peace, we produce more than the rest of the world now does. Our cotton manufactories exceed those of the whole world seventy-five years ago. Our tonnage exceeds that of the world seventy-five years since. It will soon surpass that of the British Empire; and, in a few years, much short of three-quarters of a century, it will far surpass that of the rest of the world. We have more printing-presses in operation, and more printed volumes in the hands of our people, than the whole world had on the day of the Concord fight. More newspapers are printed in the city of Boston every day than the whole world then produced. Since that day, America has produced the steamboat, and adopted the locomotive; and there are more steam-engines employed in Massachusetts than were then used in the rest of the world."
3. Army, Navy, &c.—The army of the United States includes 8867 men; and the navy comprises forty large and forty smaller vessels of war. The annual revenue of the government is about $50,000,000, chiefly derived from customs on imported goods. Two-fifths of the expenses of the government are for the army and navy. Our national debt is about $45,000,000. The tonnage of the United States is now larger (viz., 3,535,000 tons) than that of any other nation, except G. Britain, which has 4,360,000 tons.
4. Railroads.—In the U. States are 18,000 miles of railroad. About 2,800 miles are in New York; 1,300 in Pennsylvania; 1,200 in Georgia; 1,400 in Massachusetts; 960 in Virginia; 600 in Maine. There is an uninterrupted line from Waterville, Me., to Montgomery, Ala., 1,900 miles, passing through all the principal cities. There are two lines from New York to Lake Erie: one by way of Albany, to Buffalo, and one by way of Piermont, to Dunkirk.
5. Telegraphs.—There are about 26,000 miles of telegraph in the United States: 15,000 conducted on Morse's plan, and 11,000 on those of House and Bain.
6. Canals.—The aggregate length of canals is 4500 miles. The principal are these: This table lists principle canals and their lengths in miles. These canals include: Erie, Champlain, Delaware and Hudson, Morris, Pennsylvania, Chesapeake and Ohio, Miami, Ohio and Erie, Wabash and Erie, and Illinois.
6. Distances from New York— This table lists the distance in miles from New York to the following locations: Havana, New Orleans, Chagres, San Francisco, via C. Horn, Cape of Good Hope, Cape Horn, Cairo (Egypt), Athens (Greece), Liberia, Rome, Algiers, Bremen, Lima, Liverpool, Iceland, Greenland, Havre, and Southampton.
8. Religious Denominations. This table lists the following religious denominations as well as the number of churches, number of Ministers, and number of members of each: Baptists, Methodists, Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Episcopalians, Lutherans, German Reformed, Reformed Dutch, Universalists, Unitarians, Christians, and Catholics.
LESSON LXVII. 1. Territory of the United States. 2. Progress of the United States? Give some instances of this. 3. Army, navy, &c.? 4. Railroads? 5. Telegraphs? 6. Canals? 7. Distances from New York? 8. Religious denominations?
[begin surface 517]HOW FAR IS IT? —OURS A "GREAT COUNTRY."—The following table, showing the comparative distances between some of the American and foreign cities, affords a very good idea of the extent of our continent:
Miles. | |
Pittsburg to Boston | 616 |
New York to Mobile | 1,476 |
Philadelphia to Pensacola | 1,443 |
Boston to Nashville | 1,590 |
New York to Charleston | 790 |
Boston to Galveston | 2,256 |
New York to New Orleans | 1,640 |
Source to Mouth of the Mississippi | 2,985 |
San Francisco to New York (overland) | 3,800 |
Miles. | |
Paris to Vienna | 625 |
Paris to St. Petersburg | 1,510 |
St. Petersburg to Constantinople | 1,450 |
London to Constantinople | 1,490 |
London to Vienna | 760 |
Stockholm to Madrid | 2,160 |
London to Rome | 910 |
St. Petersburg to Thebes | 2,800 |
LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.—There are in the United States one hundred and twenty-two colleges, with more than a thousand professors, and having more than twelve thousand students. They have extensive laboratories and astronomical instruments, and libraries containing more than a million of volumes. There are about forty medical schools, with about two hundred and fifty professors, and five thousand students. There are forty-four theological schools, with one hundred and twenty-seven professors, and between thirteen and fourteen hundred students. There are sixteen law schools, and about six hundred students.
[begin surface 521]THE CROPS OF 1856.—We find the following interesting statistics in the Patent Office Report. The money value of some of the principal crops in the United States for the above year is given as follows:
Indian corn | $360,000,000 |
Wheat | 247,500,000 |
Hay and fodder | 160,000,000 |
Pasturage | 143,000,000 |
Cotton | 136,000,000 |
Oats | 68,000,000 |
Garden products | $50,000,000 |
Potatoes | 41,250,000 |
Sugar | 35,000,000 |
Orch'd products | 25,500,000 |
Total | $1,266,250,000 |
9. Exports.—The total amount of the exports of the United States in 1850, was $178,138,318; the imports were $151,898,720. Of the exports $136,946,912 were products of the industry of the United States, some of which were as follows:
Products of the sea | $3,000,000 |
Products of the forest (lumber, timber, pitch, turpentine, furs &c.) | 7,500,000 |
Animal products (meat, butter, cheese, wool, &c.) | 10,500,000 |
Vegetable products (corn, wheat, potatoes, apples, &c, &c.) of which cotton amounted to about $72,000,000 and tobacco to about $10,000,000 | 95,000,000 |
Manufactured articles | 20,000,000 |
10. Chief Productions.—The annual products of the chief branches of industry in the United States are estimated as follows:
Manufactures | $1,020,300,000 |
Mines | 120,000,000 |
Agriculture | 1,200,000,000 |
The following are taken from the census of 1850:
Population. | No. of Slaves. | Extent in Square Miles. | No. of Inhabitants to Square Mile. | |
New England States. | ||||
Maine | 583,169 | — | 35,000 | 16.66 |
New Hampshire | 317,976 | — | 8,030 | 39.6 |
Vermont | 314,120 | — | 8,000 | 39.26 |
Massachusetts | 994,514 | — | 7,250 | 137.17 |
Rhode Island | 147,545 | — | 1,200 | 122.95 |
Connecticut | 370,792 | — | 4,750 | 78.06 |
2,728,116 | 64,230 | |||
Middle States. | ||||
New York | 3,097,394 | — | 46,000 | 67.33 |
New Jersey | 489,555 | 236 | 6,851 | 71.46 |
Pennsylvania | 2,311,786 | — | 47,000 | 49.19 |
Delaware | 91,532 | 2,290 | 2,120 | 43.17 |
Maryland | 583,034 | 90,368; | 11,000 | 53.00 |
6,573,301 | 112,971 | |||
Southern States. | ||||
Virginia | 1,421,661 | 472,528 | 61,352 | 23.17 |
North Carolina | 869,039 | 288,548 | 45,500 | 19.1 |
South Carolina | 668,507 | 384,984 | 28,000 | 23.87 |
Georgia | 906,185 | 381,682 | 58,000 | 15.62 |
Florida | 87,445 | 39,310 | 59,268 | 1.48 |
Alabama | 771,623 | 342,844 | 50,722 | 15.21 |
Mississippi | 606,526 | 309,878 | 47,151 | 12,86 |
Louisiana | 517,762 | 244,809 | 41,346 | 12.52 |
Texas | 212,592 | 58,161 | 325,520 | 0.65 |
6,061,340 | 716,859 | |||
Western States. | ||||
Arkansas | 209,897 | 47,100 | 51,198 | 4.02 |
Missouri | 682,044 | 87,422 | 65,037 | 10.49 |
Tennessee | 1,002,717 | 239,459 | 44,000 | 22.79 |
Kentucky | 982,405 | 210,981 | 37,680 | 26.07 |
Ohio | 1,980,329 | — | 39,964 | 49.55 |
Indiana | 988,416 | — | 33,809 | 29.24 |
Illinois | 851,470 | — | 54,409 | 15.37 |
Michigan | 397,654 | — | 56,243 | 7.07 |
Wisconsin | 305,391 | — | 53,924 | 5.66 |
Iowa | 192,214 | — | 50,914 | 3.77 |
7,592,537 | 488,178 | |||
Western Territories. | ||||
Minnesota | 6.077 | — | 141,839 | 0.04 |
New Mexico | 61,547 | — | 210,774 | 0.29 |
Indian Territory | — | — | 187,171 | — |
Nebraska | — | — | 528,725 | — |
Kansas | — | — | 136,700 | — |
67,624 | 1,205,209 | |||
Pacific Region. | ||||
California | 92,597 | — | 188,982 | 0.49 |
Utah | 11,380 | 26 | 187,923 | 0.06 |
Oregon | 13,924 | — | 341,463 | 0.04 |
117,901 | 718,368 | |||
District of Columbia | 51,687 | 3,687 | 50 | 1033.74 |
Grand Total | 23,191,876 | 3,204,313 | 3,306,865 | 7.01 |
States. | 1799. | 1800. | 1810. | 1820. | 1830. | 1840. | 1850. |
Maine | 96,540 | 151,719 | 228,705 | 298,335 | 399,455 | 501,793 | 583,169 |
New Hampshire | 141,899 | 183,762 | 214,360 | 244,161 | 269,328 | 284,547 | 317,976 |
Vermont | 85,416 | 154,465 | 217,713 | 235,764 | 280,652 | 291,948 | 314,120 |
Massachusetts | 378,717 | 423,245 | 472,040 | 523,287 | 610,408 | 737,699 | 997,514 |
Rhode Island | 69,110 | 69,122 | 77,031 | 83,059 | 97,199 | 108,830 | 147,545 |
Connecticut | 238,141 | 251,002 | 262,042 | 275,202 | 297,675 | 309,978 | 370,792 |
New York | 340,120 | 586,756 | 959,049 | 1,372,812 | 1,918,608 | 2,428,921 | 3,097,394 |
New Jersey | 184,139 | 211,949 | 245,550 | 277,575 | 320,823 | 373,306 | 489,555 |
Pennsylvania | 434,373 | 602,365 | 810,091 | 1,049,458 | 1,348,233 | 1,724,033 | 2,311,786 |
Delaware | 59,096 | 64,273 | 72,674 | 72,749 | 76,748 | 78,085 | 91,532 |
Maryland | 319,728 | 341,548 | 380,546 | 407,350 | 447,040 | 470,019 | 583,034 |
Ohio | — | 45,365 | 230,760 | 581,434 | 937,903 | 1,519,467 | 1,980,329 |
South Carolina | 249,073 | 345,591 | 415,115 | 502,741 | 581,185 | 594,398 | 668,507 |
Georgia | 82,548 | 162,101 | 252,433 | 340,987 | 516,823 | 691,392 | 906,185 |
Florida | — | — | — | — | 34,760 | 54,477 | 87,445 |
Alabama | — | — | — | 127,901 | 309,527 | 520,756 | 771,623 |
Mississippi | — | 8,850 | 40,352 | 75,448 | 136,621 | 375,651 | 606,526 |
Louisiana | — | — | 76,556 | 153,407 | 215,739 | 352,411 | 517,762 |
Virginia | 748,308 | 880,200 | 974,622 | 1,065,379 | 1,211,405 | 1,239,797 | 1,421,661 |
North Carolina | 393,751 | 478,103 | 555,500 | 638,827 | 737,987 | 753,419 | 869,039 |
Tennessee | 35,791 | 105,602 | 261,727 | 422,813 | 681,904 | 829,210 | 1,002,717 |
Kentucky | 73,077 | 220,955 | 406,511 | 564,317 | 687,917 | 779,828 | 982,405 |
Missouri | — | — | 20,845 | 66,586 | 140,455 | 383,702 | 382,044 |
Arkansas | — | — | — | 14,273 | 30,388 | 97,574 | 209,987 |
Indiana | — | 4,875 | 24,520 | 147,178 | 343,031 | 385,866 | 988,416 |
Illinois | — | — | 12,282 | 55,211 | 157,445 | 476,183 | 851,470 |
Michigan | — | — | 4,762 | 8,896 | 31,639 | 212,267 | 397,654 |
Wisconsin | — | — | — | — | — | 30,945 | 305,391 |
Iowa | — | — | — | — | — | 43,112 | 192,214 |
Texas | — | — | — | — | — | — | 212,597 |
California | — | — | — | — | — | — | 92,597 |
District of Columbia | — | 14,875 | 24,520 | 147,178 | 343,031 | 685,866 | 988,416 |
Minnesota Territory | — | — | — | — | — | — | 6,077 |
New Mexico Territory | — | — | — | — | — | — | 61,547 |
Oregon Territory | — | — | — | — | — | — | 13,294 |
Utah Territory | — | — | — | — | — | — | 11,380 |
Seamen in the U. S. service | — | — | — | — | 5,318 | 6,100 | — |
Total | 3,929,827 | 5,305,941 | 7,239,814 | 9,638,191 | 12,866,020 | 17,069,453 | 23,191,876 |
States. | Dates. | Places. | By whom settled. | Admitted into the Union. |
1. Florida | 1565 | St. Augustine | Spanish | 1845 |
2. Virginia | 1607 | Jamestown | English | — |
3. New York | 1614 | Albany | Dutch | — |
4. Massachusetts | 1620 | Plymouth | English | — |
5. New Hampshire | 1623 | Dover | English | — |
6. New Jersey | 1624 | Bergen | Danes | — |
7. Delaware | 1627 | Cape Henlopen | Swedes and Finns | — |
8. Maine | 1630 | York | English | 1820 |
9. Connecticut | 1633 | Windsor | English | — |
10. Maryland | 1634 | St. Mary's | English | — |
11. Rhode Island | 1636 | Providence | Roger Williams | — |
12. North Carolina | 1650 | Albemarle | English | — |
13. Missouri | 1663 | St. Genevieve | French | 1836 |
14. South Carolina | 1670 | Port Royal | English | — |
15. Michigan | 1670 | Detroit | French | 1836 |
16. Pennsylvania | 1862 | Philadelphia | William Penn | — |
17. Arkansas | 1685 | Arkansas | French | 1836 |
18. Illinois | 1686 | Kaskaskia | French | 1818 |
19. Wisconsin | 1690 | Green Bay | French | 1845 |
20. Texas | 1692 | San Antonio de Bexar | Spanish | 1845 |
21. Indiana | 1694 | Vincennes | French | 1816 |
22. Louisiana | 1699 | Ibberville | French | 1812 |
23. Alabama | 1703 | Mobile | Spanish | 1819 |
24. Mississippi | 1716 | Natchez | French | 1817 |
25. Vermont | 1724 | Fort Dummer | English | 1791 |
26. Georgia | 1733 | Savannah | English | — |
27. Tennessee | 1765 | Nashville | English | 1796 |
28. Kentucky | 1775 | Boonesborough | Daniel Boone | 1792 |
29. Ohio | 1788 | Marietta | New Englanders | 1802 |
30. Iowa | 1820 | Dubuque | Illinois people | 1846 |
31. California | 1768 | San Diego | Spaniards | 1850 |
Name. | Residence. | Born. | Installed into Office. | Age at that time. | Years in Office. | Died. | Age at his Death. |
George Washington | Virginia | 1732 | 1789 | 57 | 8 | Dec. 14, 1799 | 68 |
John Adams | Massachusetts | 1735 | 1797 | 62 | 4 | July 4, 1826 | 91 |
Thomas Jefferson | Virginia | 1743 | 1801 | 58 | 8 | July 4, 1826 | 83 |
James Madison | Virginia | 1751 | 1809 | 58 | 8 | June 28, 1836 | 85 |
James Monroe | Virginia | 1758 | 1817 | 58 | 8 | July 4, 1831 | 72 |
John Quincy Adams | Massachusetts | 1767 | 1825 | 58 | 4 | Feb. 23, 1848 | 80 |
Andrew Jackson | Tennessee | 1767 | 1829 | 62 | 8 | June 8, 1845 | 78 |
Martin Van Buren | New York | 1782 | 1837 | 55 | 4 | — | — |
William H. Harrison | Ohio | 1773 | 1841 | 68 | — | April 4, 1841 | 68 |
John Tyler | Virginia | 1790 | 1841 | 51 | 4 | — | — |
James K. Polk | Tennessee | 1795 | 1845 | 49 | 4 | June 15, 1849 | 54 |
Zachary Taylor | Louisiana | 1784 | 1849 | 65 | 1 | July 9, 1850 | 66 |
Millard Fillmore | New York | 1800 | 1850 | 50 | 3 | — | — |
Franklin Pierce | N. Hampshire | 1804 | 1853 | 49 | 4 | — | — |
James Buchanan | Penn. | 1817 |
On leaving Onska, we experienced considerable delay on account of the storm, the roads were drifted to such an extent that even the plows could not be forced through in many places, and the peasants were obliged to work with their broad wooden spades. The sky, however, was wholly clear, and of a pure daylight blue, such as we had not seen for two months. The sun rode high in the firmament, like a strong, healthy sun again, with some warmth in his beams, as they struck our faces, and the air was all mildness and balm. It was heavenly, after our Arctic life. The country, too, boldly undulating, with fir-forested hills, green and warm in the sunshine, and mild, picturesque valleys sunk between, shining in their covering of snow, charmed us completely. Again we saw the soft blue of the distant ranges, as they melted away behind each other, suggesting space, and light, and warmth. Give me daylight and sunshine, after all! Our Arctic trip seems like a long, long night, full of splendid dreams, but yet night and not day.
On the road, we bought a quantity of the linen handkerchiefs of the country, at prices varying from 25 to 40 cents apiece, according to the size and quality. The bedding, everywhere along the road, is of home-made linen, and I do not recollect an instance where it has not been brought out, fresh and sweet from the press for us. In this, as in all other household arrangements the people are very tidy and cleanly, though a little deficient as regards their own persons. Their clothing, however, is of a healthy, substantial character, and the women consult comfort rather than ornament. Many of them wear cloth pantaloons under their petticoats, which, therefore, they are able to gather under their arms in wading through snow-drifts. I have not seen a low-necked dress or thin shoe north of Stockholm.
"The damsel who trips at daybreak
Is shod
like a mountaineer;"
yet a sensible man would sooner take a damsel to wife than any delicate Cinderella of the ballroom. I protest I lose all patience when I think of the habits of our American women, especially our country girls. If ever the Saxon race does deteriorate on our side of the Atlantic, as some ethnologists, anticipate, it will be wholly their fault.
We stopped for the night at Höruäs, and had a charming ride the next day among the hills and along the inlets of the Gulf. The same bold, picturesque scenery, which had appeared so dark and forbidding to us on our way north, now, under the spring-like sky, cheered and inspired us. At the station of Docksta, we found the peasant-girls scrubbing the outer steps, barefooted. At night, we occupied our old quarters at Weda, on the Angermann River. The next morning the temperature was 25° above zero, and at noon rose to 39°. It was delightful to travel once more with caplappets turned up, fur-collar turned down, face and neck free, and hands bare. On our second stage, we had an overgrown, insolent boy for postillion, who persisted in driving slow, and refused to let us pass him. He finally became impertinent, whereupon Braisted ran forward and turned his horse out of the road, so that I could drive past. The boy then seized my horse by the hed; B. pitched him into a snow-bank, and we took the lead. We had not gone far before we took the road to Hernösand through mistake, and afterward kept it through spite, thus adding about seven miles to our day's journey. A stretch of magnificent dark-green forests brought us to the narrow strait which separates the island of Hernösand from the main land. The ice was already softening, and the upper layer repeatedly broke through under us.
Hernösand is a pretty town of about 2,000 inhabitants, with a considerable commerce. It is also the capital of the northern bishopric of Sweden. The church, on an eminence above the town, is next to that of Skelftea, the finest we have seen in the north. We took a walk while breakfast was preparing, and in the space of twenty minutes saw all there was to be seen. By leaving the regular road, however, we had incurred a delay of two hours, which did not add to our amiability. Therefore, when the postillion, furiously angry now as well as insolent, came forward to threaten us with legal prosecution in case we did not pay him heavy damages for what he called an assault, I cut the discussion short by driving him out of the room, and that was the last we saw of him. We reached Fjäl as the moon rose—a globe of silver fire in a perfect violet sky. Two merry boys, who sang and shouted the whole way, drove us like the wind around the bay to Wifsta. The moonlight was bright as the Arctic noonday, and the snowy landscape flashed and glittered under its resplendent shower. From the last hill we saw Sundsvall, which lay beneath us, with its wintry roofs, like a city of ivory and crystal, shining for us with the fairy promise of a warm supper and a good bed.
On the 9th, we drove along the shores of the magnificent bay of Sundsvall. Six vessels lay frozen in, at a considerable distance from the town. Near the southern extremity of the bay, we passed the village of Svartvik, which, the postillion informed us, is all owned by one person, who carries on ship-building. The appearance of the place justified his statements. The laborers' houses were mostly new, all built on precisely the same model, and with an unusual air of comfort and neatness. In the center of the village stood a handsome white church, with a clock-tower, and near it the parsonage and school house. A the foot of the slope were the yards, where several vessels were on the stecks, and a number of sturdy workmen busy at their several tasks. There was an air of "associated labor" and the "model lodging house" about the whole place, which was truly refreshing to behold, except a touch of barren utilitarianism in the cutting away of the graceful firs left from the forest, and thus depriving the houses of all shade and ornament. We met many wood-teams, hauling knees and spars, and were sorely troubled to get out of their way. Beyond the bay, the hills of Norrland ceased, sinking into those broad, monotonous undulations which extend nearly all the way to Stockholm. Gardens with thriving fruit-trees now began to be more frequent, giving evidence of a climate where Man has a right to live. I doubt whether it was ever meant that the human race should settle in any zone so frigid that fruit cannot ripen.
Thenceforth we had the roughest roads which were ever made upon a foundation of snow. The increase in travel and in the temperature of the air, and most of all, the short, loosely-attached sleds used to support the ship-timber, had worn them into a succession of holes, channels and troughs, in and out of which we trampled from morning till night. On going down hill, the violent shocks frequently threw our runners completely into the air, and the wrench was so great that it was a miracle how the sled escaped fracture. All the joints, it is true, began to work apart, and the ash shafts bent in the most ticklish way, but the rough little conveyance which had already done us such hard service, held out gallantly to the end. We reached Mo Myskie on the second night after leaving Sundsvall, and I was greeted with "Salaam aleilkoom ya Sidi! from the jolly old Tripolitan landlord. There was an unusual amount of travel northward on the following day, and we were detained at every station, so that it was nearly midnight before we reached the extortionate inn at Gefle. The morning dawned with a snow-storm, but we were within 120 miles of Stockholm, and drove in the teeth of it to Elfkarleby. The renowned cascades of the Dal were by no means what I had expected, but it was at least [covered]isfaction to see living [covered]the North.
The snow was now getting rapidly thinner. So scant was it on the exposed Upsala plain that we fully expected being obliged to leave our sleds on the way. Even before reaching Upsala, our postillions chose the less-traveled field-roads whenever they led in the same direction, and beyond that town we were charged additional post-money for the circuits we were obliged to make to keep our runners on the snow. On the evening of the 13th we reached Roxebro, onl 14 miles from Stockholm, and the next morning, in splendid sunshine, drove past Haga park and palace, into the North Gate, down the long Drottning-gatan, and up to Kahu's Hotel, where we gave our sleds to the valet-de-place, pulled off our heavy boots, threw aside our furs for the remainder of the Winter, and sat down to read the pile of letters and papers which Herr Kahu brought us. It was precisely two months since our departure in December, and in that time we had performed a journey of 2,200 miles, 250 of which were by reindeer, and nearly 500 inside of the Arctic Circile. Our frozen nozes had peeled off, and the new skin showed no signs of the damage they had sustained—so that we had come out of the fight not only without a scar, but with a marked increase of robust vitality.
I must confess, however, that interesting as the journey has been, and happily as we have endured its exposures, I should not wish to make it again. It is well to see the North, even after the South; but, as long as there is no one who visits the tropics without longing ever after to return again, so, I imagine, there is no one who, having seen a Winter inside the Arctic Circle, would ever which to see another. in spite of the warm, gorgeous and ever-changing play of color hovering over the path of the unseen sun, in spite of the dazzling auroral dances and the magical transfiguration of the forests, the absence of true daylight and of all signs of warmth and life, exercises at last a depressing influence on the spirits. The snow, so beautiful while the sunrise-setting illumination lasts, wears a ghastly monotony at all other times, and the air, so exhilarating, even at the lowest temperatures, becomes an enemy to be kept out, when you know his terribule power to benumb and destroy. To the native of a warmer zone, this presence of an unseen destructive force in Nature weighs like a nightmare upon the mind. The [covered] North also seem to undergo a species of hibernation, as well as the animals. Nearly half their time is passed in sleep; they are silent in comparison with the natives of other parts of the world; there is little exuberant gayety and cheerfulness, but patience, indifference, apathy almost. Aspects of Nature which appear to be hostile to man often develop and bring into play his best energies, but there are others which depress and paralyze his powers. I am convinced that the extreme North, like the Tropics, is unfavorable to the best mental and physical condition of the human race. The proper zone of Man lies between 30° and 55° North.
To one who has not an unusual capacity to enjoy the experiences of varied travel, I should not recommend such a journey. With me, the realization of a long-cherished desire, the sense of novelty, the opportunity for contrasting extremes, and the interest with which the people inspired me, far outweight all inconveniences and privations. [covered] fact, I was not fully aware of the gloom and col[covered] in which I had lived until we returned far enough southward to enjoy eight hours of sunshine and a temperature above the freezing point. It was a second birth into a living world. Although we had experienced little positive suffering from the intense cold, except on the return from Muoniovara to Haparanda, our bodies had already accommodated themselves to a low temperature, and the sudden transition to 30° above zero came upon us like the warmth of June. My friend, Dr. Kane, once described to me the comfort he felt when the mercury rose to 7° below zero, making it pleasant to be on deck. The circumstance was then incomprehensible to me, but is now quite plain. I can also the better realize the terrible sufferings of himself and his men, exposed to a storm in the temperature of -47°, when the same degree of cold, with a very light wind, turned my own blood to ice.
Most of our physical sensations are relative, and the mere enumeration of so many degrees of heat or cold gives no idea of their effect upon the system. I should have frozen at home last Winter at a temperature which I found very comfortable in Lapland, with my solid diet of meat and butter and my garments of reindeer. The following is a correct scale of the physical effect of cold, calculated for the latitude of 65° to 70° north:
15° above zero—Unpleasantly warm.
Zero—Mild and agreeable
10° below zero—Pleasantly fresh and bracing.
20° below zero—Sharp, but not severly cold. Keep your fingers and toes in motion, and rub your nose occasionally.
30° below zero—Very cold; take particular care of your nose and extremities; eat the fattest food, and plenty of it.
40° below—Intensely cold; keep awake at all hazards, muffle up to the eyes, and test your circulation frequently, that it may not stop somewhere before you know it.
50° below—A struggle for life.
We kept a record of the temperature from the time we left Sundsvall (Dec. 21) until our return to Stockholm. As a matter of interest, I sjubjoin it, changing the degrees from Resaumur to Fahrenheit. We tested the thermometer repeatedly on the way, and found it very generally reliable, although in extremely low temperature it showed from one to two degrees more than a spirit thermometer. The observations were taken at from 6 to 8 a.m., 12 to 2 p.m., and 7 to 11 p.m., whever it was possible:
Morning. | Noon. | Evening. | |
December 21.......... | +6 | .. | zero |
December 22.......... | +6 | .. | — 3 |
December 23.......... | —22 | —29 | —22 |
December 24.......... | —6 | —29 | —22 |
December 25.......... | —35 | —38 | mer. frozen. |
December 26.......... | —30 | —24 | —31 |
December 27 (storm)... | —18 | —18 | —18 |
December 28 (storm)... | zero. | zero. | zero. |
December 29.......... | —6 | —13 | —13 |
December 30.......... | —6 | —13 | —22 |
December 31 (storm)... | —3 | +9 | +9 |
January 1, 1857...... | +3 | +3 | +3 |
January 2............ | —6 | —6 | —6 |
January 3............. | —30 | —22 | —22 |
January 4............. | —18 | .. | —22 |
January 5............. | —31 | —30 | —33 |
January 6............. | —20 | —4 | zero. |
January 7............. | +4 | +18 | +25 |
January 8............. | +18 | .. | —11 |
January 9............. | —28 | —44 | —44 |
January 10 (storm).... | — 5 | .. | — 2 |
January 11 (storm).... | — 2 | zero. | — 5 |
January 12 (storm).... | — 5 | — 4 | — 4 |
January 13 (storm).... | +5 | +5 | +5 |
January 14............ | — 6 | —13 | — 6 |
January 15............ | — 8 | —13 | —33 |
January 16............ | — 9 | —10 | —11 |
January 17 (fog)...... | zero. | zero. | zero. |
January 18............ | — 3 | — 3 | — 9 |
January 19 (storm).... | — 3 | — 3 | — 9 |
January 20............ | +20 | .. | +6 |
January 21............ | — 4 | zero. | zero. |
January 22............ | +2 | — 6 | —13 |
January 23............ | —13 | — 3 | —13 |
January 24............ | —15 | —22 | —44 |
January 25..mer. froz. | (—50?) | —42 | mer. frozen. |
January 26............ | —45 | —35 | —39 |
January 27.....frozen | —47 ? | —45 | —35 |
January 28.....frozen | —49 ? | —47 ? | —44 |
January 29............ | —47 ? | —43 | —43 |
January 30............ | —27 | —11 | —35 |
January 31............ | —17 | —16 | — 7 |
February 1.......... | zero. | — 9 | —13 |
February 2.......... | +2 | +6 | zero. |
February 3.......... | zero. | zero. | zero. |
February 4.......... | — 9 | zero. | — 3 |
February 5 (storm)... | +3 | +3 | +3 |
[covered] | |||
February 7.......... | +14 | +18 | [covered] |
February 8.......... | +25 | +39 | +22 |
February 9.......... | +5 | +22 | +16 |
February 10.......... | +25 | +37 | +37 |
February 11.......... | +34 | +34 | +32 |
February 12.......... | +32 | +37 | +23 |
February 13.......... | +16 | +30 | +21 |
February 14.......... | +25 | +39 | +25 |
We are settled here until the first of May. After a little allowable indolence, the natural reaction after such a journey, I shall devote myself to the sights and characteristics of Stockholm, of which I shall write you in due time. B. T.
[CORRECTION.—In Letter XXI., near the end, occurs the following sentence: "The wind had fallen, but the mercury again "froze at 70° below zero." It was written, and should have been printed, "47° below zero."
1. Characteristics.—The region around the North Pole is a cold, stormy, and desolate portion of the globe, alike unfriendly to animal and vegetable life.
2. Arctic Ocean.—This flows north to the eastern continent, and separates Greenland from the American continent. How far north Greenland extends is unknown; but it is supposed to terminate beyond eighty degrees of north latitude. It is therefore probable that the Arctic Ocean occupies the whole space north of the two continents.
3. The North Pole.—Various attempts have been made to approach the pole; but, on account of the extreme cold, no one has ever been nearer than within eight degrees. Beyond eighty degrees of north latitude, winter holds perpetual sway; vegetation disappears; no human habitation is seen, and the land, covered with mountains of everlasting ice, is given up to desolation.
4. Islands, Shores, &c.—Baffin's Bay is a large sea between Greenland and Prince William's Land. It was discovered by Baffin, an English navigator, A. D. 1616. It can only be navigated a short space in summer, on account of the ice. The coasts are mountainous. The water is the resort of seals and whales. The chief islands are Disco and Waigatz, on the Greenland coast. This sea communicates with the Atlantic by Davis's Strait, discovered by Davis, in 1587. It is greatly encumbered by ice, but is the resort of whaling ships. Lancaster Strait lead west from Baffin's Bay into Barrow Strait. From this point westward there is a chain of straits and channels, which extend from Lancaster Sound to Bhering's Strait; thus connecting the Atlantic, the Arctic, and the Pacific Oceans. In these waters are numerous islands, among which is that of Melville, one hundred miles long, and remarkable as the spot where the adventurous Captain Parry, with his crew, braved the Arctic climate for two years (1819–20). Here the sun set on the 4th of November, and did not rise till the 2d of February; making a night of three months' continuance. This place is regarded as the most northern part of the British possessions. Many attempts have been made to discover a passage through these northern seas to Bhering's Straits. Captains Ross,
Exercises on the Map.—Where is Iceland? Greenland? Baffin's Bay? Russian America? Melville's Island? Davis' Strait? Boundaries of Russian America? British America, &c?
LESSON LXVIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Arctic Ocean?
[begin surface 529]Parry, Beechy, and Franklin, sent by the British government within the last thirty years, have made interesting discoveries, which were completed in 1837 by Dease and Simpson, of the Hudson's Bay Company, proving beyond a doubt that through these seas the Atlantic and Pacific are connected. This fact was verified in 1853 by M'Clure.
5. Greenland.—This is a vast island, chiefly within the Arctic circle, and is one of the coldest and most desolate of all the inhabited regions of the glove. The interior is occupied by mountains of ice, and the eastern coast is unapproachable. Greenland is surrounded by thousands of islands, mostly barren rocks. These are visited by the people in spring for catching seals. Here are two seasons—a winter of nine months, and a summer of three. The land is barren, and the vegetation consists only of mosses, shrubs, and stinted grasses. In the northern parts, during the winter, the sun is not seen for three or four months. Yet, during these long nights, the heavens are often illuminated by the most brilliant displays of the aurora borealis, or northern lights. The principal animals are the white bear, which is large and strong, and, when pinched by hunger, will come to cabins and attack the settlers; the reindeer, whose flesh is eaten; and dogs, which are serviceable in drawing sledges over the snow. Along the sea-shore are many seals, without which the inhabitants would perish. Small quantities of wheat, potatoes, kitchen-herbs, and berries are produced in the south, with low birch, alder, and willow trees. July is the only month without snow. The inhabitants of this bleak and lonely island live in huts made of stone and turf, lighted and warmed by moss dipped in oil. They are good-natured, but low of stature and dull of intellect. In their habits they are to the last degree filthy. They were formerly pagans; but the Moravian missionaries have partially converted them to Christianity. The missionary settlements are at Lichtenau, Lichtenfels, and New Hernhut. The principal villages are Frederick's Harbor, Julian's Harbor, and Good Hope. Greenland was discovered in 981, by Eric Raude, a Norwegian from Iceland, who was driven by accident upon the coast. The country was, shortly after, colonized by a number of families from Iceland; and in 1023 it came under the Danish government. At the beginning of the fifteenth century there were 200 towns and villages, mostly on the east coast; but the whole colony, in a most mysterious manner, suddenly disappeared. Captain Davis, an Englishman, rediscovered Greenland in 1686. No inhabitants were found, except Esquimaux; but the ruins of houses and churches were numerous. The Danes, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, sent out an expedition in search of the lost colony, but without success. In 1721 a settlement was established on the western coast by Hans Egede, a Norwegian clergyman, since which time the colony has continued slowly to increase. All the present settlements are on the western coast. Upernavik, in latitude 72° 48,´ is the most northerly town on the globe.
6. Iceland.—This lies in the Atlantic Ocean, about two hundred miles to the east of Greenland. Its surface is rugged and mountainous, and the island contains thirty volcanoes, the chief of which is Hecla. The eruptions of this are terrific. Hot springs of remarkable size are numerous. One, called the Great Geyser, is intermittent, and throws up columns of boiling water. The first jets seldom exceed fifteen or twenty feet, but the highest often exceed eighty. The explosions take place at intervals of about six hours. The sides of the mountains are covered with glaciers, which occupy 4000 square miles, and are 4000 feet above the level of the sea. Hardly any trees grow, and fuel is scarce. There are many tracts of good soil. Sheep, cattle, small horses, pigs, and dogs are reared. Wild reindeer abound; fish and sea-fowl teem along the shores. Iceland was discovered about the year 860 by a Norwegian pirate. A colony was settled here by the Norwegians in 874, and an independent republic soon rose in Iceland, which afforded an asylum to literature and the arts, then on the point of being overwhelmed by the general tide of barbarism on the continent of Europe. The Icelanders were skillful and hardy navigators. They discovered Greenland about the year 981. A still more remarkable discovery, made by them shortly afterward, was Vinland, or New England, which we have already noticed. In the year 1261 the Icelanders submitted to Haco, king of Norway, and remained attached to this kingdom. In 1380, the island was transferred to the crown of Denmark. The only town is Reikiavik—900 inhabitants. The Icelanders still maintain their literature in full vigor, and a remarkable degree of general knowledge exists among them.
1. Characteristics.—This country is a large peninsula, and comprises the northwestern corner of the American continent.
2. Mountains.—The great range of the Snowy Mountains extends to this region, and only terminates with the ocean. In some cases the mountains come close to the sea. The scenes that are witnessed along the coasts, by the falling of glaciers, are said to be terrific. They sometimes fill up whole valleys, or fall into rivers and bays, where they remain like hills of crystal. When such masses fall into a forest, the tallest trees are crushed, or scattered to a distance. When they fall into the sea, enormous waves rise, covered with foam, and ships in the vicinity experience a violent shock.
3. Shores, Islands, &c.—The Russian territory extends north and south for more than a thousand miles. At the south, it consists of a narrow strip along the shore. Here are Mount Fairweather and Mount St. Elias, 17,850 feet high, is the loftiest peak in North America. Near the shore is a group of islands, one of which is Sitka, on which New Archangel is placed. To the north are Cape Elizabeth, Kodiak Island, and the long peninsula of Alaska. Bhering's Strait separates this territory from Asia. On the north side of the Russian territory are Icy Cape, Point Barrow, and Point Beechy.
4. Climate, Products, &c.—The climate is cold, though somewhat modified by the vicinity of the sea. Fogs and hazy weather are almost perpetual. The Strait is frozen over in winter, and, to the north, ice continues along the shores throughout the season. There are various kinds of fir, of which the pine is the most common. In some places it rises in dark, lofty forests. There are many shrubs, and some parts produce short grass. The
3. The North Pole? 4. Islands, &c.? 5. Greenland; its seasons, animals, inhabitants, &c.? 6. Iceland; its mountains, products, &c.?
LESSON LXIX. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Shores, Islands, &c.? 4. Climate, Products, &c.? 5. Animals?
[begin surface 530]These little Islands which have recently become famous in consequence of the treaties which have referred to them, and the misunderstanding which has arisen about them, both in Honduras, England and the United States, have until recently been considered almost beneath the notice of Geographers. But let a place like Bolgrad or Ruatan become the subject of diplomacy, and it is astonishing what an unrolling of maps, and what a hunting through the Gazetteers take place. In this instance there would be little use of a search, for the authorities are, to say the least, exceedingly unsatisfactory, What has been known about them by the English mahogany cutters, or commercial captains, has not allowed to be made very public. Since the discovery of California however, Central America has become of the highest importance among the transit countries of the New World, and the poor, wretched mongrel races that there had lost their affinities with civilized humanity, preserving only some, barbarous notions of commerce and religion, have at length loomed up in the horizon, and begin to assume a kind of form and proportion.
And now, because American genius has perfected an easy and practicable railway route between the two great oceans of the world, and has in its hand no less than four other lines of communication—the Panama, Nicaragua, Tehuantepec and Honduras, and are surveying another by the Atrato, these petty countries of Central and South America, aim at an immediate equality with the foremost nations of the two continents. These are they who, having nothing to build upon, without commerce, without arts, without education, ignorant, bigoted and stupid, fall back upon the theoretical principle of nationality found in the old writers upon the laws of nations and upon invocations to Liberty, a goddess whom they only worship in the shape of discord. We are, therefore, at loggerheads with New Grenada, about Panama route; with Nicaragua and Costa Rica, about the Vanderbilt route, and are negotiating with Mexico about the Tehuantepec route; and as an offset to this, England is working away at the Honduras route, with her capital and our brains.
All the petty governments which have relations with these transit routes, have been troublesome since they found that their approbation or even their silence might be of account, and the valorous captains who live at Bogota, ascertaining that they can n[illegible]r rob Americans with impunity as they pass across the Isthmus, have threatened to raise a thousand negroes, and come down and exterminate the North Americans.
England, which has carefully cherished its settlements at Belize, and made an attempt to possess herself of the Bay Islands, has now backed out of the scheme, but in her own peculiar way; but that she evidently intends to take every care of her interests in that direction, is evident from the encouragement she has given to the Honduras Railroad Company.
These Bay Islands consist of Ruatan, Bonacca, Helena, Utilla, Barbaretta and Morat, situated in that part of the Caribbean Sea known as the Bay of Honduras, and form a free territory under the sovereignty of that name. By the treaty of the 27th of August, 1856, between England and Honduras, the inhabitants of the Bay Islands had the right to govern themselves by a municipal administration of their own, judges, with juries and laws of their own, entire liberty of worship and of conscience, exemption from Custom-house imposts and military service, except in defence of the islands themselves.
With this liberal constitution, a favorable climate, a fertile soil, excellent and safe harbors and proximity to one of the termini of the railway, this key of Spanish America and garden of the West Indies, has become of considerable consequence to the commercial world. The islands are situated on the North of the Atlantic coast of Honduras, lying parallel to that coast at a distance of from thirty to fifty miles. They are surrounded by reefs of Madrepore, and banks of rocks, which connect the islands the one with the other. Ruatan and Bonacca are considered the most important of the group, the remaining four being small and sparsely inhabited.
Ruatan, the largest of the whole, is about thirty miles long and nine wide, at its broadest part. Having excellent ports, the best if not the only ones on that side the coast, its position is commercially and politically important, as England early discovered.
The view of the island from the sea is said to be magnificent; from the bottom to the top of its mountains, which rise about one thousand feet, it is covered with verdure. Nature appears to have exhausted herself in making it prolific and beautiful.
The group is evidently of Volcanic origin. The principal formation is calcareous, but granite and quartz are also found there. In the vallies
and savannas the soil is deep and fertile. On the mountains valuable clays and marls prevail. In the forest there is an immense quantity of oak, cedar, pine and ash, applicable to ship building. Among the other natural products are cocoa, bananas, plantains, yams, figs, pine apples and raisins. The islands abound with game, and the harbors and lagoons are crowded with excellent fish and green turtle. In the months of April and May, the wild birds lay such immense quantities of eggs on the rocks that they furnish ample food for the inhabitants for many weeks.
The climate is better than that of the Antilles generally. Rains fall between September and February which greatly moderate the temperature. The summer months are not hot, and the inhabitants prefer them to any other of the year. Rheumatism and fever are the prevalent diseases, but it is asserted that the climate, notwithstanding, is exceedingly healthful and very favorable to persons of Northern birth. The population of Ruatan is only 2,000, it might sustain 20,000, yet in 1843 it contained only 80 inhabitants. This rapid increase is owing to immigration and the natural increase, the births in relation to deaths, being as 3 to 1, families often being found having twelve children.
The inhabitants reside chiefly in the interior among their plantations, visiting the coast in boats on the numerous water ways of the island. The principal town of the Colony is Coxhole or Port McDonald, with 600 inhabitants. The mass of the population is composed of free negroes who came from the Grand Cayman, and these are the men the English Government wished to protect by its interpolated article in its Honduras arrangement. The white population consists of agriculturists, merchants and fishermen. The exports are chiefly turtle, cocoa and tropical fruits.
Dixon's Cove is a port where the English had for some time intended to found a city, and is situated some six miles from Port McDonald.
It is evident that these islands are very valuable, and in connection with the proposed Honduras railway, are quite likely to rival Aspinwall. It would never do to have an English fortified town and harbor at Dixon's Cove, or anywhere in the Bay. We have collated the foregoing information, with the hope that it may be useful at this stage of our negotiations with England, at present at a stand. We are indebted for most our information to a recent French writer of note, not much known in the United States.
rocks and marshes are covered with sponge-like moss, two or three feet thick. In general, the aspect of the country is, in the highest degree, gloomy and repulsive.
5. Animals.—The sea-shore along this territory is the resort of seals, walruses, and numerous water-fowl. Whales are found in the Strait. In the interior are foxes, wolves, white and black bears, beavers, martens, otters, &c.
6. Political Condition, Towns, &c.—This whole territory is claimed by Russia. There are several settlements—one on the island of Kodiak, called Alexandria, Archangel, in Sitka, and some others. The latter is the capital, and has about 1000 inhabitants. It is the residence of the governor, has fortifications, magazines, &c. The Russian-American Company, incorporated in 1799, for fishing and the fur trade, have their establishments here.
7. Inhabitants.—Of the whole population about fifteen hundred are supposed to be Europeans, and the rest savages. The latter are partly Esquimaux, and tribes of Indians blended with these. They all live by fishing and hunting, and are a rude, ignorant, and inoffensive race. The furs which they take are sold to the Russian traders.
8. History.—Bhering's Straits were discovered by a Russian navigator, named Vitus Bhering, in 1728, and first explored by Captain Cook in 1788. In 1741 Tchirikoff discovered the American coast, and upon this the Russians found their claim to the country. The Russians who had establishments on this coast projected a scheme for taking possession of Nootka Sound, about 1780, but this was prevented by the remonstrances of the Spanish government. In 1799, the Russian-American Company was chartered by the Emperor Paul. This caused settlements to be made here, and in 1803 they extended south to Sitka. The settlement here was destroyed by Indians in the following year. Another town was built near by, called New Archangel, which has since been the capital. In 1825 the southern limit of the Russian territory was fixed at 54° 40´, by treaty between Great Britain and Russia.
9. Aleutian Islands.—These extend from Cape Alaska, in North America, to the peninsula of Kamschatka, in Asia. They are very numerous, occupying a bending space of 600 miles. They are mountainous, and several peaks are volcanic, some being in constant activity. Earthquakes are common. Vegetation is scanty, consisting of little grass and a few shrubs. The seas abound in fish and water-fowl. The sea-otter, common seal, and foxes are the principal animals. The natives are a mixture of the Tartars and North American Indians, and all own the Russian authority.
1. Extent.—This territory stretches from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and is nearly as extensive as the whole United States.
2. Political Divisions.—These are as follows: This table lists the political divisions of British America and includes the area (in square miles), the population (in 1851), and the population to square mile. The political divisions included are as follows: New Britain or Hudson's Bay Co.'s Territory, Canada West, Canada East, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia with Cape Breton, Prince Edward's Island, and Newfoundland.
3. Inhabitants.—The whole northern part of British America is occupied by scattered tribes of savages. Further south, in the middle regions, there are numerous trading posts, and bands of white hunters and trappers, belonging to the Hudson's Bay company. Along the Gulf and River St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes, are the principal white settlements.
4. The Esquimaux.—These people are found along the northern and eastern shores of Labrador, and those which border upon the Polar Sea, both in British and Russian America. They are thus thinly scattered over a space of 2000 miles, frequently changing their place of abode, but always living near the sea, and finding their chief subsistence from it. They are of short stature, swarthy complexion, black, straight hair, and cheerful habits. They are entirely distinct from the common Indians of America, and are evidently of the same stock as the Lapps of Europe, and the Samoiedes and Kamschadales of Asia. They all belong to what is called the Mongolian or Tartar race, and probably first came to the continent from Asia, across Bhering's Strait. Along the coasts of Labrador they have partially embraced Christianity, under the teaching of missionaries; the rest are savages. Their houses vary in different tribes. Along the sea-shore they are often of drift-wood; sometimes they are mere tents of skins. In winter, many of them dwell in huts built of ice. Their dress is of skins, the whole being so loose that the people look like meal-bags inflated with the wind. The chief ornament is a string of wolves' teeth around the waist. The boots are so high and wide that women often carry their infants in them. The children wear fur caps, with the ears and noses of the animal, so that a distance they resemble the cubs of bears, foxes, &c. Fish and flesh, both raw and cooked, are eaten. Their chief occupation is hunting the seal, in which they display great courage and skill. They have no government but that of families. Their religious belief is confined to superstitions relating to spirits, with whom their conjurors are believed to have intercourse. Dead bodies are buried beneath stones or ice, yet so carelessly that the wolves dig them up, and skulls are often seen around the huts. Sledges, drawn by an active species of dog resembling the wolf, are used in the winter months. The runners are sometimes made of the jawbones of the whale, and are shod by pouring water upon them and letting it freeze. Snow-shoes, made of the sinews of seals, netted over a frame of wood, are made by the women, and worn both by them and the men. In general, the lively, cheerful, social temperament of the Esquimaux is in strong contrast to the sullen and moody disposition of the American Indians.
1. Characteristics.—This territory is a desolate and extremely cold region. It is noted chiefly for its fur-bearing animals, and its shores for an abundance of seals, walruses, whales, &c.
2. Surface, &c.—Its western part is crossed by
6. Political Condition, Towns, &c.? 7. Inhabitants? 8. History? 9. Aleutian Islands?
LESSON LXX. 1. Extent of British America? 2. Political Divisions? Extent? Population? 3. Inhabitants? 4. The Esquimaux? To what race do they belong? What of their customs, government, religion, &c., &c.?
[begin surface 533]the Rocky Mountains, and otherwise it is traversed in various directions by low ranges. The eastern part is everywhere sterile, and for the most part destitute of wood.
3. Hudson's Bay.—Hudson's Bay, the most prominent feature of the eastern section, is an extensive sea, connected with the Atlantic by Hudson's Strait, and covers a larger surface than any inland sea of the old continent except the Mediterranean. It is 800 miles long and 500 miles broad. The coasts in general are high, rocky, and rugged, and its northern part is occupied by Southampton Island, a high rocky and ice-covered mass.
4. Rivers.—The most important of these are the Mackenzie and Coppermine, the Nelson, the Severn, and the Albany. The Mackenzie has a course of 2000 miles; and empties into the Arctic Ocean. The rivers usually pass from lake to lake, supplying and carrying off their waters successively.
5. Coasts, Islands, &c.—The principal islands are Vancouver's, Queen Charlotte's, and others off the Pacific coasts, between which and the main are extensive navigable sounds. The coasts are generally rugged. Numerous islands also exist along the northern coasts.
6. Climate.—The climate is the coldest on the east. On the Pacific it is comparatively mild. Everywhere, however, the winters are long and dreary, and the more northern regions are constantly frozen. The soil, except in a few secluded valleys, is entirely unfit for agriculture.
7. Vegetation.—With little exception, vegetation is scant, consisting of short grasses and stunted shrubs. In the more southern parts and on the river banks there are timber spots of some extent, on which grow pines, spruce, &c. The cultivation of grain is almost impossible; but potatoes are raised, and some other garden vegetables.
8. Animals.—These are bears, beavers, raccoons, badgers, martens, minks, lynxes, &c. The occupants and natives of the country are chiefly engaged in trapping and hunting these for their furs. Fish abound in the seas, lakes, and rivers, and the shores are alive with water-fowl. Vast quantities of feathers and eggs are collected on the east coast.
9. Inhabitants.—These are chiefly the Esquimaux, which inhabit the coasts. There are also several Indian tribes, chiefly in the south and west. Otherwise the population is made up of the Company's servants.
10. Settlements.—The principal settlements are forts Churchill, York, and Albany, near Hudson's Bay, and there are numerous others on the principal lakes and at the forks of the rivers. On the Red River of the north is situate the celebrated Settlement of Lord Selkirk, the only civilized permanent community in the territory.
11. History.—Labrador was discovered by John Cabot, in 1497, and it is supposed his son Sebastian entered Hudson's Bay in 1512. This was re-discovered by Hudson in 1610. Meanwhile, the French had colonized Canada, and from thence carried on an active fur
LESSON LXXI., Sec. I. 1. Characteristics? 2. Surface? 3. Hudson's Bay? 4. Rivers and Lakes? 5. Coasts? Islands? Vancouver's Island? 6. Climate, soil? 7. Vegetation? 8. Animals? 9. Inhabitants? 10. Settlements? 11. History?
[begin surface 534]trade with the Indians west of Hudson's Bay. In 1668 the English sent a vessel to Hudson's Bay, and erected Fort Charles, on the bank of Rupert's River. In 1670 the Hudson's Bay Company was incorporated, and, sending its agents to this quarter, soon extended its trading posts, and engrossed a large part of the fur trade. Its operations are now on an immense scale, its territories stretching entirely across the continent, and equally one-half of Europe in extent. They claim the exclusive privilege of trading with the Indians for furs throughout this territory. The company is under the direction of a governor, &c., chosen by the proprietors in London. The immense fur sales of the Hudson's Bay Company take place every year, in the month of March, in London. These furs are thence distributed over the Continent.
1. Characteristics.—Canada is noted for its rare agricultural capacities, its extensive water communications, and the rapid developments of its resources.
2. Extent.—The country presents an approximation to the form of a triangle, with its base on the 50th parallel and its apex, Point Pelée, jutting into Lake Erie. The eastern extremity is Cape Gaspé, and the western confluence of the River Kaministiquia with Lake Superior. The east side of this imaginary triangle comprises Lower Canada, and the west side Upper Canada. The entire length of the territory is 1200 miles, and its average breadth between 200 and 300 miles.
3. Surface of the Country.—Upper Canada is characterized by a general evenness of surface. A table-ridge of considerable hight, however, stretches southeast and northwest, forming a watershed between Lakes Superior and Huron and the south portion of Hudson's Bay. A similar watershed traverses Lower Canada also, as is indicated by the opposite courses of its rivers—one series of which flows southeast toward the St. Lawrence, and another pours into Hudson's Bay. Upper Canada, though much more fertile than Lower Canada, is inferior to is as regards romantic and picturesque scenery. The physical features of the latter, on both sides of the St. Lawrence, are varied and grand, consisting of boundless forests, magnificent rivers and lakes, foaming cataracts, and islands with rich pastures. This beautiful appearance, however, changes to a very different character in the winter, which is extremely severe and inhospitable.
4. Rivers.—The principal rivers of Lower Canada are—The St. Lawrence, the Ottawa, the Saguenay, and the St. Maurice. The Ottawa divides the two sections of the province. The Richelieu, the Chaudière, and the St. Francis are also rivers of Lower Canada. The Richelieu or Sorel is the outlet of Lake Champlain. The principal rivers of Upper Canada, are—the Thames, and the Ouse or Grand. Numberless others of smaller dimensions, and of which the Trent is the principal, drain the Canadian side of Ontario and Erie, which lakes are connected by the Niagara River.
5. Lakes, &c.—The most considerable lakes are Simcoe and Nipissing in the west, and Lake St. John in the east. The larger lakes are Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, which are vast inland seas, and navigable for the largest class of vessels. None of these are exclusively Canadian, but, lying between Canada and the United States, their mid-waters form the dividing line between the two countries.
6. Falls of Niagara.—These stupendous falls occur in the Niagara River, the outlet of Lake Erie, and have a descent of 160 feet, which is the difference of level between lakes Erie and Ontario. (See p. 53.) The river is here crossed by one of the most magnificent suspension bridges in the world, which connects the railroads of New York with those of Upper Canada.
7. Minerals.—Iron is abundant, and lead, tin, and copper occur in several places. The latter abounds most on Lake Superior. Silver and gold are also known to exist. Gold is found chiefly on the Chaudière River. Marble of many beautiful varieties, lithographic stone and gypsum, exist very extensively in the western section, and coal has been found in small measures.
8. Climate.—The climate of Canada is much colder than that of Europe on the same parallels. It is nearly the same with the climates of Norway, Sweden, and Russia, and the south part of Iceland. Both the heat of summer and cold of winter are extreme. In the lake districts, however, the climate is more equable than Lower Canada or in the more remote localities.
9. Vegetation.—The greater portion of the land is thickly wooded with pine, ash, maple, butternut, walnut, cherry, bass, sycamore, button-wood, alder, willow, cedar, tamarack, etc. Of the shrubs, there are many kinds, among which is the sumach. Flowery plants of great beauty abound; and among the wild fruits are cherries, plums, grapes, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, cranberries, strawberries &c. Nuts of various kinds are abundant. Nearly all vegetables and fruits of the temperate climate, indeed, thrive in Canada, particularly in the west, under proper cultivation. In the south part, peaches and apples are produced in great abundance.
10. Animals.—Wild animals, as bears, deer, wolves, boars, beavers, and otters are numerous, and furs form an important product. The humming-bird appears in Canada, and the rattle-snake is not uncommon. Fish is abundant. The principal fisheries are in the Gulf of the St. Lawrence.
11. Inhabitants.—The Indian aborigines are now nearly extinct, and only a very few occupy the outposts of the territory. The present dominant population is of European origin: in Upper Canada chiefly of British and Irish descent, with a considerable mixture of Germans and Norwegians; and in Lower Canada chiefly descendants of the old French settlers, or, as they are locally termed, habitans. Immigration has added largely but unequally (about 40,000 annually) to these during the past few years: in Upper Canada, in 1852, about 400,000 were foreign-born, and in Lower Canada less than 100,000. Hence we find the French of Lower Canada essentially what they were fifty years ago, and for the most part a non-progressive race. The inhabitants of Upper Canada, on the other hand, constantly recruiting from the Old World, are developing its resources rapidly, and with success. The people of the two sections, indeed, are essentially different races, speaking different tongues, and of entirely antagonistic religions. Politically the inhabitants of both sections are on an equality.
Sec. II. 1. Characteristics? 3. Extent? 3. Surface? 4. Rivers—St. Lawrence, &c.? 5. Lakes, etc.? 6. Falls of Niagara? 7. Minerals? 8. Climate? 9. Vegetation? 10. Animals? 11. Inhabitants? 12. Divisions? 13. Agriculture? 14. Manufactures?
[begin surface 535]The following interesting account of the immense bridge now being built across the St. Lawrence at Montreal, is from the correspondence of a Pittsburg paper.
"The Victoria Bridge, at the point where it is to cross the St. Lawrence, is two miles in width. The current is very rapid, and the water from four to ten feet in depth along where the piers are to be erected, except in the main channel, where it is from thirty to thirty-five feet deep. In the winter the ice makes to a great thickness, and piles up with deep snows, under which the waters have to wear their way on to the ocean. Spring comes; the vast bodies of snow which have collected in all this river basin melt and pour into the common receptacle. The floes and boulders of ice are driven up in vast piles thirty and forty feet in height, through which the water roars and boils and surges, driving them onward at a fearful rate and crushing before them. As far as the eye can reach up and down the river, one sees nothing but this raging flood of ice grinding and heaving, and behind, the floods pouring onward, driving along trees, rocks, timber, and debris which have gathered in its long journey. The quay of Montreal would not stand against this for an hour, were it not built in the most substantial manner. Docks are made for vessels in which they are protected from the descending fury. Well, the Victoria Bridge plants its broad bases in the very midst of this 'ice movement.' It has to breast all this fury. The abutments and approaches at each end occupy 3,000 feet in length, and are nearly completed. The abutments proper are of stone with hollow chambers, and the approaches of mixed earth and stone. Nine piers are completed of the twenty-four which will make up the whole number.
"These piers are fixed to the river bottom in the following manner: A coffer-dam is sunk; steam pumps exhaust the water within it; all loose material is then removed from the bed of the river, thus laid bare, until the solid body of rock is reached. Upon this, hewn stones, weighing fourteen tons, are fixed. Through these are passed iron bolts which go to a great depth into the solid rock. The next layer is fastened upon the first with cement and bolts of iron, and so on to the top. The whole is thus made one mass of stone and iron. The whole Titanic structure will be 10,294 feet in length, or nearly two English miles. As we have remarked above, about 3,000 feet are made upon the shores. There remains therefore for the bridge proper, 7,000 feet, or nearly a mile and one-third. How then is this vast sheet of water, flowing swift, and sometimes piled to the height of 30 feet with huge masses of ice, to be spanned? We find 24 stone piers, standing 242
[begin surface 537][covered]part, perpendicular on three sides, and slop[covered] own to the water's edge. In exception, how[covered]o this general statement, it should be observed [covered] he center span is 339 feet wide, for the pur[covered] of navigation, and is bounded by piers much [covered] than the others. Resting without other sup[covered]n these piers, and running from abutment to [covered]ent, is the bridge, consisting of a great hol[covered]on tube, 22 feet high in the middle by 16 [covered]and descending to 19 feet high at the two [covered] The center span is to be 50 feet above the [covered]e level of the water, thense sinking gradually [covered] either end, 1 foot in 130, thus making the [covered] of the abutment about 37 feet. And so, in [covered]erminal masses of masonry, in these 21 co[covered]piers, breasting for all time the floods of the [covered]wrence, in this enormous tube of iron through [covered] loaded trains will shoot like a weaver's shut[covered]ou have the Victoria Bridge, the wonder of [covered]rld. Statistics can not enhance our admira[covered] still we add, that the estimated cost is over [covered],000, that the weight of iron in the tubes only [covered] 8,000 tons, and that the contents of the ma[covered] will be 3,000,000 cubic feet. The whole will [covered]mplete in the fall of '59 or in the spring of [covered]
[begin surface 539]12. Divisions, &c.—In 1852, Canada was divided into the following counties: UPPER CANADA. This table lists the counties of Upper Canada along with their population and "Chief Towns." LOWER CANADA. This table lists the counties of Lower Canada along with their population and "Chief Towns."
13. Agriculture.—The principal products are wheat, oats, and rye, for which the climate and soil are well adapted. Live-stock is also abundant. Only about one-sixteenth part of all the land is under cultivation, and yet a large surplus of grain is exported. Wool, butter, and cheese are largely produced. Potatoes, hemp and flax, and tobacco are also considerable crops.
14. Manufactures.—There are no large manufacturing establishments in Canada; but in all the towns the usual mechanic arts are engaged in. In this branch of industry, however, a rapid progress has been made, and from its ample water-power the country has every facility for its development. Mills are numerous.
15. Mining.—In the vicinity of Lake Superior, copper, iron, lead, &c., are mined. In other parts quarries of various materials are open; and mineral discoveries are constantly being made in the progress of the geological survey now being instituted. Among the most recent and valuable are fine marbles, lithographic stones, &c.
16. Commerce.—Canada had from the first been a commercial country. In relation to its population it now stands at the head of American commercial communities, its foreign commerce having largely increased within the past few years, and especially since the introduction of the reciprocity principle between it and the United States. The great bulk of the exports, consisting of lumber, vegetable food, and animal products, with fish, minerals, &c., is sent to Great Britain and the United States. The imports are principally from the same countries. The total value of foreign commerce is about $60,000,000 annually. Internal commerce is greatly facilitated by its vast system of rivers, canals, and railroads. Nearly 3,000,000 tons of shipping pass through its canals annually.
17. Canals.—These are the Welland Canal, uniting the navigation of lakes Ontario and Erie, and several canals improving the navigation of the St. Lawrence. The Rideau Canal extends from the Ottawa at Ottawa City to Lake Ontario at Kingston; and there is a canal uniting the St. Lawrence with Lake Champlain. Most of these are public works, and have cost vast sums of money.
18. Railroads.—Canada has several extensive railroads. At present not less than 1500 miles are open to travel; and with their connections furnish communications with all the northern ports of the United States. The principal of these are the Grand Trunk Railroad, from Montreal and Quebec to Portland; the Great Western, extending across the peninsula of Upper Canada, from Niagara Falls in New York to Detroit in Michigan; the Ontario, Simcoe, and Lake Huron, extending from Toronto, on Lake Ontario, to Collingwood, on Georgian Bay. There are numerous other shorter roads completed; and others, some of great length, are projected or in course of construction. The whole system, when completed, will have a length of upward of 4000 miles.
19. Government.—Canada is a province of the British Empire, and is ruled by a governor appointed by and representing the monarch. The Parliament consists of a Council and House of Representatives. Affairs are administered by a responsible ministry; and, with the exception of the crown having the power to veto legislative acts, which is never exercised, Canada is in reality an independent country. Its military defense is, however, still vested in the imperial government, as are also its relations with foreign states. The expenses of the government are about $5,000,000 a year. It has a debt chiefly contracted for the public works, amounting to about $20,000,000.
20. Education.—In Upper Canada education is in a very satisfactory condition; in Lower Canada less progress has been made, but constant improvement in this respect is witnessed. Schools of every kind are liberally supported by the government. In 1854, out of 269,000 children of school age in Upper Canada, 205,000 were attending school. At the same time there were 8 colleges, 79 county grammar schools and academies, 174 private schools, 3 normal and model schools, and 3127 common schools. Lower Canada had 108,284 children at school and the institutions then established were 2114 elementary schools, 65 model schools, 53 superior girls' schools, 19 preparatory academies, 14 colleges, 44 conventual schools, and 85 independent schools. Recently a system of public libraries has been instituted throughout the province, and through this every district will be possessed of the best works in every department of knowledge.
21. Chief Towns.—The principal cities of Upper Canada are Toronto, Hamilton, and Kingston; in Lower Canada, Montreal and Quebec. Quebec, the provincial capital, is situate partly on a plain on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, and partly on a perpendicular rock, 350 feet high. The two portions are called respectively the upper and lower towns. The place is strongly fortified, and contains many handsome public buildings. Its harbor is accessible to the largest ships, and it is one of the largest lumber ports of the world. Population about
15. Mining? 16. Commerce? 17. Canals? 18. Railroads? 19. Government? 20. Education? 21. Chief Towns?
[begin surface 540]50,000. Montreal, on an island of the same name on the St. Lawrence, is the most populous city of the province. The two places are connected by railroad, and both with the railroads of the United States. Population, about 70,000. The other towns of Lower Canada are Three Rivers, with 6000 inhabitants; Sorel, with 4000; St. Hyacinthe, with 3800; St. John's, with 3600; Sherbrooke, with 3500, etc. Toronto, the largest city of Upper Canada, is finely situate on the northwest shore of Lake Ontario, and has a large trade with the opposite American ports. Population, 50,000. Hamilton, at the southwest extremity of the same lake, has about 20,000 inhabitants. Kingston, on the north shore of the lake at its outlet, it connected with the Ottawa by the Rideau Canal, and contains about 15,000 inhabitants. Each of these places has a thriving commerce, and is rapidly progressing. The following are also important towns: Ottawa City (By-Town) has 10,000 inhabitants; London, 8000; Belleville and St. Catharine's, each about 6000; Brantford and Cobourg, each about 5000; Dundas, Niagara, and Brockville, each about 4000; and otherwise, among the principal places may be mentioned Port Hope, Prescott, Chatham, Woodstock, Peterboro', Galt, Perth, Paris, Amherstburg, Guelph, Cornwall, Picton, Goderich, St. Thomas, Preston, Barrie, Chippewa, Thorold, &c., which are towns of from 1500 to 3000 inhabitants.
22. History.—Canada was discovered by Sebastian Cabot in 1497; but the first settlement made by Europeans was in 1544, at St. Croix Harbor, by Jaques Cartier, a French navigator, who sailed up the St. Lawrence. In 1608 a permanent settlement was made upon the present site of Quebec, Canada being then called New France. From this period, till 1759, the French continued to occupy the country, but in that year an English army under General Wolfe captured Quebec, and by September, 1760, all other places within the government were surrendered to the British. In 1774 a Legislative Council was appointed to assist the governor. Seventeen years later Canada was divided into two separate provinces, called Upper and Lower, with distinct Legislatures. In 1840 a re-union of these provinces was effected, and at a still later period the organization of the government has been beneficially modified. In all civil affairs, indeed, the province is now independent of the imperial government.
1. Situation.—This province is a compact territory, southeast of Canada, and abuts on the northeastern boundary of the United States. To the southward it is bounded by the Bay of Fundy, and is separated from Nova Scotia by a narrow isthmus between the Bay of Fundy and the Bay of Chaleur, which last, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence bound it on the northeast.
2. Surface, &c.—The surface is generally undulating, and is traversed or bounded by three principal rivers—the St. John, Restigouche, and Miramichi. The soil is fertile and densely wooded, and timber forms one of the most valuable staples of the country. The climate is materially modified by the Gulf Stream, which warms an otherwise cold and inhospitable latitude.
3. Agriculture and Products.—Of these potatoes are the most conspicuous; but wheat and other grains, except Indian Corn, are good crops. The early frosts are unfavorable to the last named. Oats form the largest crop, and next in importance is buckwheat. Cattle and sheep are very numerous. Only about a thirtieth part of the land is yet under cultivation.
4. Minerals.—Mining is a leading interest in the province. Coal, iron, and gypsum abound; and there is a peculiar rock found in New Brunswick which is extensively used for grindstones.
5. Fisheries.—These are also important. Above 500 fishing vessels are employed in the season, and the value of fish annually caught is estimated at half a million dollars. The fish taken are cod, pollack, hake, haddock, and herrings. The great fishing stations are the islands Grand Manan, and Campo Bello, and West Isles, and St. John's Harbor, and Cumberland Bay.
6. Divisions.—Into 14 counties, viz.: This table contains the counties of New Brunswick along with the population (in 1851) and the capital city.
7. Manufactures.—Most of the trades are carried on in the province; but generally the establishments are small. Among enumerated products cloth, boots and shoes, cabinet-ware, hats, and iron castings are conspicuous, and there are nearly 1000 saw and grist mills, and numerous tanneries.
8. Commerce.—Foreign commerce centers chiefly at St. John's, and amounts to about $10,000,000 annually, employing nearly 1,000,000 tons of shipping. Ship-building is extensively engaged in.
9. Railroads, &c.—The means of intercommunication are ample; and several railroads are in progress. The telegraph connects to the principal towns.
10. Government.—The province is, like Canada, almost independent of the mother country. It has an appointed governor and council, and an elective assembly. The annual expenditures amount to about $800,000.
11. Education and Religion.—Each parish has a free school, and there are also numerous grammar and high schools. Upward of 28,000 children attend school. There are colleges at Frederickton and Sackville. The great majority of the people are Protestants, but there is no church distinguished by law.
12. Towns, &c.—Fredericktown, on the St. John River, 85 miles from its mouth, is the provincial capital, and contains some 6000 inhabitants. St. John's, at the mouth of the same river, is the chief trading town. Its population is about 12,000. St. Andrew's, at the mouth of the St. Croix, in Passamaquoddy Bay, is also a place of some trade, and the southern terminus of the St. Andrew's and Quebec railroad. Woodstock, a thriving town on the upper St. John River. Newcastle, on the banks of the Miramichi, is well situated for the export of timber. Douglasstown and Chatham are thriving towns some miles farther down and on the opposite sides of the river. Bathurst is a well-built town on an inlet of the Bay of Chaleur, and depends mostly on ship-building. Dalhousie, at the mouth of Restigouche harbor, and Campbelltown, 16 miles above, are towns of 1200 inhabitants.
Sec. III. 1. Situation? 2. Surface, &c.? 3. Agriculture? 4. Minerals? 5. Fisheries? 6. Divisions, &c.? 7. Manufactures? 8. Commerce? 9. Railroads? 10. Government? 11. Education and Religion? 12. Towns, &c.? 13. History?
[begin surface 541]We have placed on this page some fine engravings from beautiful drawings made in the localities represented by Mr. Barry, taken expressly for the Pictorial. They delineate fresh and unhackneyed scenes, for New Brunswick has rather been neglected by tourists and artists. The second picture represents salmon-fishing in the "Nepisiguit." A sportsman, properly accoutred with high water-proof boots and furnished with rod, line and reel, has made his cast and is engaged in playing the delicious and exhilarating game for this fish which abounds in the New Brunswick waters. How old "Christopher North" of Blackwood, would have enjoyed such a scene! And how, emerging from the waters, after having landed a royal specimen of the monarchs of the river, he would have celebrated his triumph in undying words! The river "Nepisiguit," emptying itself in Bathurst Harbor, is widely known as one of the three most celebrated salmon runs of North America, and well deserves its Indian name of "Noisy Water." From a mountain rivulet it gradually widens into a rapid stream, rushing through the wilderness for many miles to the "Grand Falls," delineated in one of our engravings, where, in his season, the delicious "salmon, king of fishes," may be always found. The river at this point descends between high walls of solid rock, over one hundred feet in height, and sweeps with fearful velocity down a rocky bed of millstone for many a league, making the place remarkable for its marvellous beauty, its romance, and sublimity. Here the poet and the artist may dwell for weeks, undisturbed in study, from the "least little weedy wild blossom," to the mountain pines, delight in the continuous sound of the noisy water, and obtain unbounded joy from ever-changing skies. The place is easily reached, by steamer from Boston to St. John, thence by stage to Chatham, and again by the same conveyance to Bathurst, where there is a good tavern, kept by Mr. James Weatherall, a genuine Yankee, whose willingness to render comfort is plainly seen upon his face. Sportsmen from the States, the Canadas and even Europe with pleasure will join with us in wishing a "long life and a merry one" to the jolly landlord of the Jenny Lind Hotel. Our third illustration is an accurate delineation of the town of Bathurst, which is situated on the Bay de Chaleur in the British provinces, fifty miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It contains about four thousand inhabitants, and is noted for its exports of lumber, and for its fine millstones. Like most of the towns in the provinces, it is lacking in business excitement. The seven days of the week seem all alike. The houses are small and poorly built, without the slightest regard to architectural taste. The large building on the right of the picture is the steam sawmill of Ferguson and Co., a branch of a noted Glasgow house. The Roman Catholic Church upon the hilltop, was built for the French residents. A little to the left of this may be seen the old windmill and dwelling-house of the first settler, Mr. Charles Doucett. The time-worn edifice crowning the eminence on the left of the picture, is the Presbyterian Church, while under it is shown a portion of the bridge connecting the two sides of the town. The whole picture is an exact delineation of the town as it appears. In our sketches of various localities we aim, in the first place, at accuracy of representation, and afterwards at such pictorial effect as the nature of the scenes will admit. A common fault with drawings of places is, that artists, in aiming at effect are apt to sacrifice truth; we have always carefully avoided this, as we wish to record only faithful transcripts of all localities in our pages, daguerreotypes, as it were, of actual scenes.
[begin surface 542][covered]e picture on this page was drawn expressly for us on the [covered]Mr. Barry, and is remarkable for its striking pictorial and [covered]eric effect. The full moon, partially obscured by clouds, [covered]s a portion of the heavens, while the broad rays of light [covered]e lofty tower render the objects in its vicinity as distinct as by day. On the horizon, a schooner under easy sail is [covered] down over the rippling water, while the boatmen on the [covered]plane of delineation are hauling in driftwood, the fragments [covered]nameless wreck. Canso Light is situated on Cranberry [covered] the eastern extremity of Nova Scotia. Cap Canso, or [covered]rew's Island, is one of the three composing Nova Scotia. [covered] and covered with stunted fir-trees. The light house is 88 [covered]and contains two fixed lights. The coast scenery of [covered]Scotia is quite remarkable. The province forms a narrow [covered], lying nearly parallel to the main land of New Bruns[covered] which is connected by an isthmus only fifteen miles [covered]parating the Bay of Fundy from Northumberland Straits. [covered]nded north by the Northumberland Straits, which separate [covered] Prince Edward Island, northeast by the Gut of Canso [covered]between it and the island of Cape Breton, south and south[covered] the Atlantic Ocean, west by the Bay of Fundy, and north[covered] New Brunswick. Including Cape Breton, it has an area CANSO LIGHT HOUSE, EXTREME POINT OF NOVA SCOTIA. of 18,746 square miles. The southeast coast is remarkable for its capacious harbors, there being twelve ports capable of receiving ships of the line, and fourteen deep enough for merchantmen, between Halifax and Cape Canso, a distance of a little over one hundred miles. A broad belt of high and unbroken land extends along the Atlantic shores from Cape Canso to Cape Sable. From Briar's Island, at the extremity of Digby Neck, to Capes Slipt and Blomidon, a distance of 130 miles along the Bay of Fundy, extends a ridge of mural precipices, in many places presenting overhanging masses of trap rocks from 100 to 600 feet in height. These frowning crags, and the dense fir forests, are the first objects that meet the mariner's eye as he crosses the Bay of Fundy; and their height serves to protect the interior from the driving fogs of the bay. The most remarkable body of water in Nova Scotia is Mines Bay, the eastern arm of the Bay of Fundy, penetrating sixty miles inland, and terminating in Cobequid Bay. The tides here rush in with great impetuosity, and form what is called the bore. At the equinoxes, they have been known to rise from sixty to seventy feet. Nova Scotia was first visited by the Cabots, in 1497, but was not colonized by Europeans till 1604, when De Monts, a Frenchman, with his followers, and some Jesuits, attempted for eight years to form settlements in Port Royal, St. Croix, and other places. They were finally expelled from the country by the [cutaway] claimed the country by virtue of Sebastian Cabot's discovery. In 1621, Sir William Alexander received from James I. a grant of the whole country, and prepared to colonize on a grand scale, but his projects were never carried out. In 1654, Cromwell seized upon the country by an armed force, and it remained in possession of the English till 1667, when it was ceded to France by the treaty of Breda. The English, however, from time to time, attacked and harassed the French colonists, until the country was finally ceded to England in 1713. There are many points of interest to the tourist and artist in Nova Scotia, the scene we have illustrated being only one of a number of striking localities. A few weeks back we should have shivered at the contemplation of a seaside sketch; but now, as the spring opens, and the terrors of storms and icebergs have passed away, we can bear to turn to the Atlantic shore, and gaze once more upon old ocean. But a few weeks more, and we shall all be sighing for the seaside, and talking of nothing but watering-places, all our views of enjoyment being ultra-marine. The whole Atlantic coast of North America abounds with striking localities, particularly the northeastern part of it; and those who are blessed with means and leisure, generally divide the warm season between the interior mountain region and the shore, enhancing their pleasures by contrast.
[begin surface 544]13. History.—New Brunswick, in common with Nova Scotia, was ceded to England by the treaty of Utrecht in 1713. In 1762 several New England families settled on the St. John, and at the end of the American war thousands of disbanded troops were settled at Frederickton. In 1784 New Brunswick was separated from Nova Scotia and constituted a distinct colony.
1. Situation.—This province comprises the peninsula bounded north by Northumberland Strait and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, east and south by the Atlantic Ocean, and west by the Bay of Fundy and New Brunswick.
2. Nova Scotia.—This peninsula is distinguished for great indentations of its coasts; and its harbors, in number, capacity, and safety, are unparalleled. One-third the interior is occupied by lakes. The surface is undulating, and on the north and west coasts are ranges of highlands. Iron, lead, copper, coal, marble, gypsum, etc., abound.
3. Cape Breton.—This is an island almost divided by the inlet called Bras d'Or. In minerals it is almost equally as rich as Nova Scotia.
4. Divisions, &c.—The counties are as follows: This table contains the counties of Nova Scotia along with the population (in 1851) and the capital city.
5. Products.—The chief products are coal, iron, gypsum, lime, etc.; also fine grindstones. The products of agriculture are sufficient for its own wants. Manufactures are rapidly advancing.
6. Fisheries.—These are very valuable, and employ upward of 7000 men and 5000 boats. Cod, shad, salmon, mackerel, and herrings are the principal products.
7. Commerce.—This is large and constantly increasing; and many ships are built. There is owned within the province at least one ton of shipping to each inhabitant. Fish, coal, and gypsum, are the staples of export.
8. Government.—The province is governed by a appointed governor and council. The legislature is composed of the council and an elected house of assembly. In 1851 the revenue amounted to $350,050; and the public debt was $351,559.
9. Towns.—Halifax is the seat of government. It is one of the best of Atlantic ports, is a steam-packet station, and also a naval station of the highest important. The chief trade of the province is conducted here. Population is 20,000. The other principal towns are Annapolis, Liverpool, Pictou, and Windsor, all thriving places. Sidney is the chief place in Cape Breton. Louisbourg was formerly a noted fortress.
10. History.—Nova Scotia was discovered by Cabot in 1497, but was settled by the French. In 1621 it was taken possession of by the English, and in 1623 colonized. In 1667 it was ceded to France, and in 1713 retroceded to the English. Originally its territory included New Brunswick, which in 1784 became a separate province.
1. Characteristics.—This island is extremely picturesque, but destitute of those bold features recognized in the neighboring provinces. Without any absolutely flat surface the country has no mountains, and in general the land rises into gentle undulations.
2. Soil and Products.—The soil is light, and in many places impregnated with metallic oxides. The climate is moderate, and wheat and all other grains, and the ordinary culinary vegetables, are produced abundantly.
3. Divisions, &c.—Into three counties, viz.: This table contains the counties of Prince Edward's Island along with the population (in 1851) and the capital city.
4. Industry.—Agriculture and cattle breeding are leading industries, and the fisheries are very valuable. Manufactures are of little consequence.
5. Government.—This is nearly similar to that of the neighboring provinces. The revenue in 1851 amounted to $90,155.
6. Towns.—Charlotte Town is the capital and contains 2000 inhabitants. There are no large towns.
7. History.—This island was originally settled by the French, but in 1763 was ceded to England. In 1768 it was constituted a separate colony.
1. Situation.—This island is located at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is separated from Labrador by the Strait of Belleisle.
2. Characteristics.—The island stands on an immense bank, and in its neighborhood and connected with it by soundings is the Great Bank. It is greatly indented, and its sea front is rocky and generally wooded.
3. Divisions, &c.—The districts are as follows: This table contains the districts of Newfoundland along with the population (in 1851) and the capital city of each.
4. Occupations.—Agriculture is a subsidiary pursuit; the great industry of the inhabitants being the fisheries, which are the most important in the world. Upward of 10,000 boats are employed in this branch, and 1,000,000 quintals of cod and other fish are exported annually. The French and Americans have also large fisheries off the coast.
5. Commerce.—This is large, and in ordinary years amounts to some $8,000,000. About 1200 vessels arrive and clear annually. The exports are codfish, etc.
6. Government.—Affairs are administered by a governor appointed by the crown. The legislature consists of a council and assembly; and every householder is an elector. The annual expenses are about $300,000.
7. Towns.—St. John is the seat of government; and besides this there are several other small towns. They are, however, little more than fishing stations.
8. History.—France, Portugal, and other nations, established fisheries in its neighboring seas early in the sixteenth century. In 1623 a permanent English settlement was established at Avalon. The French also formed a settlement at Placentia. The treaty of Utrecht dispossessed that nation, and the colony has ever since remained in the hands of the British.
Sec. IV. 1. Situation? 4. Divisions? 5. Products? 6. Fisheries? 7. Commerce? 8. Government? 9. Towns? 10. History?
Sec. V. 1. Characteristics? 2. Soil and products? 3. Divisions? 4. Industry? 5. Governments? 6. Towns? 7. History?
Sec. VI. 1. Situation? 2. Characteristics? 3. Divisions, &c.? 4. Occupations? 5. Commerce? 7. Towns? 8. History?
1. Characteristics.—This is an extensive and populous country, famous for its rich mines and its interesting history.
2. Mountains.—The Cordilleras, a part of the great chain of mountains that extends the whole length of the American continent, crosses Mexico from north to south. Several of the peaks are volcanic. Popocatepetl, the most elevated, is 17,735 feet in hight.
3. Rivers.—The Rio Grande, which separates Mexico from the U. States, is about 2000 miles long. The Gila, which divides Mexico from the State of California, is little known. The Colorado of the West empties into the head of the Gulf of California. The other rivers of Mexico are small. The southern and most populous part of the country suffers for want of water.
4. Lakes.—There are a number of lakes of no great extent in the valley of Mexico, the waters of which are diminishing. Tezcuco, the principal, near the city of Mexico, formerly received the rivers San Christoval, Zumpango, Chalco, and Xochimilco, and was subject to inundations. To prevent these disasters, its waters have been made to discharge themselves into the river Tampico. The celebrated floating gardens or chiampas, formed by covering a sort of raft, composed of rushes and shrubs, with a layer of rich earth, were formerly numerous on these lakes; but most of those now called by that name are fixed, though some move from place to place. Lake Chapala, in the state of Xalisco, is distinguished for the beauty of its scenery.
5. Bays and Harbors.—Although this country has a very great extent of sea-coast, it presents few good harbors; but there are some on the western shores. Most of the rivers are obstructed by sand-bars, and both coasts are rendered almost inaccessible for several months by violent tempests. The Gulf of California is 800 miles in length by 80 or 100 in breadth, but its navigation is rendered difficult by numerous shoals. The Gulf of Tehuantepec, in the state of Oaxaca, and the Bay of Campeachy, between Yucatan and Tabasco, are the other chief bays.
6. Animals.—Among the wild animals are deer, buffaloes, several varieties of the cat tribe, bears, &c. The condor, chiefly confined to the Andes, is here seen in the Cordilleras, and occasionally migrates within the territory
Exercises on the Map.—MEXICO—Boundaries? Extent? Population? What gulf on the west? On the east? Where is Vera Cruz? Acapulco? Matamoras? Mazatlan? Direction of these from the city of Mexico? What volcano is in the southern part of Mexico? What range of mountains runs through its whole extent?
GUATIMALA.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? What bay to the north? What sea to the east? Where is Omoa? San Salvador? What isthmus connects Guatimala with South America?
WEST INDIES.—Describe the situation of the West Indies. Which is the largest of these islands? The next? Next? Tell the direction of the following from Cuba: Jamaica; Martinico; Hayti; Guadaloupe. Where is Matanzas? Kingston? St. Domingo? Havana?
[begin surface 547]of the United States. Birds of gay plumage are common. Monkeys are numerous in southern Mexico. A recent traveler describes a party of these as bridging a river by forming a string extending from the top of a tall tree on one side, and Group of Monkeys. then swinging the line across, the lower monkey catching hold of a tree on the opposite bank! Over this living bridge the others cross in safety. All the domestic animals thrive in the elevated table-lands of the interior. Horned cattle, mules, horses, and sheep, are numerous in the high table-lands of the north, and in some places run wild over the plains.
7. Products, &c.—The climate of Mexico is mild, seeming to be like perpetual spring. The soil is, in parts, highly prolific. The vegetable products are rich and varied. Delicious fruits abound, including yams, oranges, melons, citrons, bananas, figs, &c. The maguey or agave is a large and thrifty plant, which yields an abundance of juice, made into a kind of cider, called pulque, which is a favorite liquor among the people. One plant will yield six hundred quarts in a season. The cochineal insect, used for producing a red dye, is raised to a great extent by the Indians, who cultivate the plants on which it feeds. Cotton, sugar, indigo, cocoa or chocolate-nut, &c., are extensively produced.
8. Minerals.—In the mountainous districts are the richest mines of silver in the world, yielding about twenty million dollars annually. The gold mines produce the value of about one million of dollars annually. Copper, lead, tin, quicksilver, zinc, and antimony are plentiful.
9. Climate.—About one-third of the country lies within the torrid zone, but the remarkabl elevation of its surface modifies its climate in a striking manner. The low country along the coasts has a tropical climate, and produces sugar, indigo, &c., while the region which occupies the central table-land from 6000 to 9500 feet in hight, is mild and temperate, and yields the cereal grains of the temperate zone. The intervening space, from 3000 to 5000 feet in hight, exhibits an intermediate climate. Thus, in ascending the successive terraces, which rise from the sea to the surface of the table-land, the climates succeed each other, as it were, in layers, and in two days the whole scale of vegetation is presented to the view of the traveler. Some of the farms or haciendas are at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Above the table-lands, single prominences rise into colder regions, and terminate in that of perpetual ice and snow. The year is divided into two seasons; the rainy, lasting about four months from the end of May, and the dry season, comprising the rest of the year. The northern part has a climate resembling that of the Mississippi valley in corresponding latitudes, but to the west of the mountains, the cold is less severe.
10. Soil.—The low plains on the coast are fertile, and have a luxuriant vegetation. Much of the central table-land is dry and sterile, but in those parts which are well watered, the vegetation is remarkably rich and abundant.
11. Face of the Country.—Mexico consists of a country rising in successive terraces or table-lands to an elevation of 8000 or 10,000 feet, on the top of which are placed the snow-capped peaks of the Cordilleras.
12. Divisions.—Mexico is divided into states or departments, each of which as a local government for particular purposes; these are as follows. The population does This table lists the states and territories of Mexico and includes the area (in square miles), population (in 1851), capital cities, and the population of the cities.
13. Agriculture, &c.—This is conducted without skill or industry; yet the products of grain, fruits, sugar, cotton, &c., are considerable. The commerce is not extensive, and is chiefly carried on by foreigners. Gold, silver, hides, cochineal, vanilla, and jalap, are the chief exports. Manufactures of cotton, wool, tobacco, and ornaments in gold and silver, exist. Mining is their great and absorbing pursuit.
14. Inhabitants.—About one-eighth of the inhabitants are whites, who are of Spanish origin; one-half are Indians; and the remainder are mixed races—that is, mulattoes, or mestizoes. The descendants of Europeans, born in the country, are called creoles. The Indians, to a great extent, have become civilized. They are, however, in a depressed state, being poor and degraded. A large part of them are held in a kind of slavery, called peonage.
LESSON LXXII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Lakes? 5. Bays and harbors? 6. Animals? 7. Products. 8. Minerals? 9. Climate? 10. Soil? 11. Face of the country? 12. Divisions? 13. Agriculture? 14. Inhabitants?
[begin surface 548]Their masters get them in debt, and thus obtain a control over them, for the purposes of servitude. Like their ancestors, they are fond of flowers, and display great mechanical ingenuity. In the northern part of Mexico, there are Ancient Mexicans. many tribes which roam over the country, and are in a savage state. The Indians mingle some of their ancient Mexican idolatries with the Catholic ceremonies. The whites retain a good deal of the original Spanish character: they are fond of show, and addicted to expensive pleasures; to bull-fights and religious processions.
15. Drink.—The pulque, derived from the agave, takes the place of cider. When distilled, it is an intoxicating beverage, called mexical.
16. Food.—The Mexicans live, to a great extent, upon vegetables. The various fruits form a large part of their food. The manioc, which yields cassava and tapioca, is greatly used.
Cathedral in the city of Mexico.17. Religion.—The Roman Catholic religion is established by law, and no other is tolerated. It is said that the church lands are valued at ninety millions of dollars.
18. Government.—Mexico is a republic. The chief officer is a president, elected for five years. The general legislature consists of a senate and house of representatives, chosen by Mexicans having each an income of two hundred dollars.
19. Army and Navy.—The army numbers about 20,000, with 30,000 enrolled in militia. The navy, since the late war, has not been re-established, and even before that was of little use.
20. Chief Towns.—The City of Mexico is one of the largest towns in America. Its streets are regular, and many of the public and private buildings are in a style of great magnificence. It contains upwards of one hundred churches, many of them adorned in a costly manner with gold and silver. The valley around the city is beautifully cultivated, and affords a delightful picture, when contrasted with the snow-capped volcanic mountains that encircle it. On Lake Tezcuco, which is near the city, are extensive floating gardens, which supply the place with fruit and vegetables. Formerly, the lake surrounded the city, but it has gradually shrunk, so that the water is three miles from it. Puebla, 70 miles from Mexico; Zacatecas, 330 miles northwest of Mexico, in the center of the silver region; Guadalaxara, Tampico, Acapulco, Matamoras, &c., are important towns. Vera Cruz is the chief port upon the gulf of Mexico. San Blas, on the Pacific, is a naval station, but very unhealthy. Tehuantepec, on a small river of the same name, is near the spot where it is proposed to unite the Atlantic and Pacific by a canal, of which the river Coazacualco and some lakes would form a part. The distance across is about 40 miles.
21. Distances from City of Mexico to This table lists the distance from Mexico City of the following cities: Washington, Popocatepetl, Orizava, Acapulco, Vera Cruz, Jalapa, Tehuantepec, Campeachy, and Merida.
22. Education.—The greater part of the people are in a state of deplorable ignorance. Most of the clergy are ill educated. Some of the sons of the rich are sent to Europe or the United States for instruction. Females are taught little but drawing and needlework.
23. History.—Soon after the Spaniards had discovered America, they heard vague rumors of a rich empire to the west of the Gulf of Mexico. In 1519, Fernando Cortez went thither with about 600 men. He found Mexico to consist of a great kingdom, under the government of a king named Montezuma. The population of the country was supposed to be eight millions. The inhabitants had made great progress in civilization. They built large cities, with lofty pyramids, temples, and palaces. They cut the hardest stone, smelted and wrought copper, gold, and silver, recorded events by paintings, and had a correct calendar. Ancient temple of Mexico. There existed a regular gradation of ranks in the empire; the pride and power of the nobles contrasting with the slavish condition of the people. Tenochtitlan, the capital, on the site of the modern city of Mexico, was built in the midst of a lake, had regular streets, and a market-square
15. Drink? 16. Food? 17. Religion? 18. Government? 19. Army and navy? 20. Chief towns? 21. Distances from Mexico?
[begin surface 549]I HAVE described the beautiful River Malacotoya and its vicinity. On the banks of this river, the Padre Vijil—now fled to Carthagena—has an indigo plantation of three hundred acres. When the news of the burning of Granada reached the Padre Vijil he was at Greytown. The old priest walked up and down wringing his hands, with many bitter regrets that he had ever allied himself with those who had now destroyed his property, and alienated his friends from him, perhaps forever. If the Allies are victorious, Vijil, as one of the warm supporters of Walker, will lose all that possesses.
When Colonel Byron Cole organized the Chontales expedition, he took with him sixteen volunteers, all good marksmen except the writer of this article, who hopes that he may be thought more skillful with the pen than he was with the rifle. With six of these men the Colonel became somewhat dissatisfied at Malacotoya, and they had leave to return. They were good soldiers and brave men, but weary of toil and suffering, and glad to get back to better quarters in Granada.
Our party now consisted of Colonel Byron Cole of California, Charles Docherty (afterward conspicuous among the hospital aids at Ometepé), a man who bore a striking resemblance to General Goicouria and was continually mistaken for him by the people of Chontales; the famous Captain "Curly," now in California, the bluffest and bravest of Irishmen; a tall, fair-faced youth, whom we called "Butcher," from his original vocation; and a long-legged, simple-minded ranger, who signalized himself by falling hopelessly in love with a beautiful native girl on the banks of the Malacotoya. The tenth was the "Doctor." Five or six natives attended us a guides and cattle-drivers. This little party of ten men proposed to penetrate one hundred miles into the interior of hostile territory, which acknowledged no government at that time, and was the place of refuge and security for the families THE TENIENTE. and leaders of the old Chomorristo party, the original enemies of Walker and his faction.
The region of Chontales extends along the entire northern and eastern shore of Lake Nicaragua, and thence northward to the head waters of the Bluefields and Mico rivers. It is composed of prairies along the lake shore, and, beyond these, of high table-lands, drained by channels of Bluefields.
The prairies of Chontales are extended alluvions, which appear to have been covered in early ages by the waters of the lake. They vary in width from one to ten miles, and are a united system of levels, broken in upon and divided by spurs of the interior table-land. Their numerous small rivers fall into Lake Nicaragua. They are separated by a narrow chain of rugged mountains from the valley of Malacotoya, this chain being the natural northwestern limit of the department of Granada. We left the river on a brilliant morning after a night of heavy rain. Charles Leroy and William West had brought in horses and mules enough for all of us, and to spare. These were distributed with impartiality, and with such rude riding-gear as could be obtained in the vicinity. With halters instead of bridles for some, and only three spurs in the party, worn in Hudibrastic fashion, one spur to the man, we commenced our journey. Not being satisfied in regard to the private intentions of my horse, I allowed all the party to cross the ford, which was very deep, before urging him to the river. Consequently I had nine enthusiastic friends, with a taste for humor, looking at me as I floundered across. The saddle-bags of medicines, clothing, etc., were submerged; and my boots, on arriving at the opposite bank, were remarkably heavy, and being water-proof, made me fancy I was shod with a couple of fire-buckets full of water. Docherty remarked that it was unnecessary for me to bring water, as there was enough for the party between Malacotoya and Chontales. The others had crossed without wetting their feet. They went over kneeling or sitting cross-legged on the saddle. Raw travelers must accustom themselves to be laughed at by the more experienced.
We arrived that evening at the hacienda of Catarina, a cattle estate buried in immense forests. The road was the worst I had ever seen. The animals sometimes floundered and fell over in the mud pits and sloughs; the branches of trees knocked us off the saddle; the entire party would sometimes dismount and lend a hand to pull one mule out of a slough. Two miles an hour was our average rate of travel, and at one point we were an hour in passing a quicksand, and the horses sinking up to their bellies.
The women at Catarina seemed to be immensely amused and gratified by our arrival. They spread a supper of cheese, tomalas, tortillas, boiled plantains (the country cousins of cold potatoes); sold us a bottle of aguardiente (very good!) for four dimes, and sang revolutionary duets, very pretty and effective. We gave them the dreadful but inevitable "Katy Darling" in return and they thought it charming, the cannibals!
The next morning I went down to the brook, took off my woolen pants, boots, socks, and knit undershirt (the whole of my Chontales costume), solid with mud, washed every thing in the running water, and put them on wet. This was the order of the day thenceforth. Dry clothes became a luxury in general unattainable. This day we rode over the mountains by a steep rocky road. On the sides descending toward Chontales, the mule paths were dangerously steep, and we were obliged to dismount and let the mules slide and scramble down. The superiority of the mule on a mountain road has been frequently noticed by travelers, but in marshy ground, and over ground alternately hard and quaggy, the horse is immeasurably his superior. Horses are slower and less confident on the short turns of a winding mountain path, but in the wet prairies and deep sloughs of this country I found the horse, though not more hardy, was a more rapid traveler, and imposed less trouble and labor on his rider than the mule.
From this range we moved eastward along a table-land, perfectly level, covered, for eight or ten miles, with deep strong grass, in hummocks, with groves of thorny trees, and orchards of the ever-recurring calabash or "hickory" of the country, a fruit like gourd, but much harder, growing close upon the thorny limbs, which gives an open grove of these trees the appearance of a moss-grown apple orchard. Here I saw the fruit of the great climbing cactus, which is like a pear, but inwardly blood-colored, and of an excellent flavor.
Half way across the wet prairies, Charles Leroy, who went forward to scout, reported a large drove of mules and horses. Colonel Cole immediately resolved to drive them all into Mesapa, the hacienda toward which we were traveling, distant five miles. It was now about ten o'clock A.M.
Driving in a herd of prairie horses and mules is a feat easy to imagine and difficult to perform. The natives divide themselves into four parties, one riding in advance, calling "Corral," "Corral," the other bringing up flanks and rear. The animals follow the call, but frequently start away, or stampede. We were unsuccessful, probably from want of concert, and a great deal of very hard swearing was the consequence. Captain Hoof and myself, separated from the others, came near being lost—an almost fatal event in that country. I recollected that the Mesapa trail lay north of us, and fortunately struck it after half an hour's riding due north. Two miles in advance we found the party exhausted, and disgusted with their ill-success. Leroy and West, used of old to this work, did nothing but laugh.
Then followed a ride through a quagmire, five miles long, adorned with vines, prickly stumps, and thorn bushes at every step. We were torn, wounded, knocked off our horses, lost and found, and as sore and weary as if beaten with clubs for an hour, when we emerged from this horrible swamp on the beautiful hill of Mesapa, on the flank of which stood a princely mansion of vast size, in the style of that country, and, as usual, the property of a celibate or priest, with a large family. They were not at home, however; and the house had been recently sacked and eaten out by a party of twenty-five American deserters under Captain Turly, all of whom were murdered by the natives subsequently at Libertad, near the gold mines. They had exhausted their ammunition, surrendered, and were set upon and slaughtered like sheep. We passed the first half of the succeeding day in putting our arms in order and making various arrangements for the journey. Some of the horses and mules were broken down. These were replaced by fresh animals taken off the estate.
As Mesapa was a cattle estate, we found plenty of milk here, which the natives do not drink, but use only to make very coarse cheese. Our men drank it by the quart, and were all sick. The native milk rebelled against American stomachs, and when we set off that afternoon came up in cataracts. This was in July, and every day we had a thunder-shower. Umbrellas are not used in Chontales, nor do rangers carry a change of clothing. Our diet from this time was cheese, tortillas, and jerked or fresh beef, broiled on a camp-fire. We ate enormously, and drank all the aguardiente we could buy, beg, or steal. The labor of such a journey exceeds all description: not a moment free of occupation. The men were frequently attacked with fever, produced by wet clothes, swamp water, and excesses in diet. I found that a smart cathartic of calomel and colocynth, followed up by the juice of oranges or limes, was the only practice. The ephemerœ treated in this way disappeared at once. Quinine did no good.
From Mesapa, which overlooks the lake, we rode along the prairies within five or ten miles of Lake Nicaragua, fifty miles; a journey of three days, stopping at night at the haciendas, mostly the property of priests. The grass was everywhere fine and good for cattle, the hills inland upon the left of us covered with timber—cedar, mahogany, etc. All this land is private property, and supports great herds of cattle and horses. Here we saw the superb crested pheasants of Chontales, and killed them in the trees with our rifles; but they are indifferent eating. The men called them "turkeys."
I saw three or four "inland shores," elevated fifty, one hundred, and two hundred feet above the lake. They were pebbly, and broken with projecting, water-worn ledges. The alluvion was sand, gravel, and clay of all colors—a still-water deposit. Small rivers, flowing through beautiful copses, and bowered with vines, gave extraordinary grace to the scenery. The waters were crystal-pure, flowing over pebbles.
SHALL WE GET UP OR LIE STILL? [begin surface 550]During this journey I made a dozen prescriptions for fever in native houses. The entire population appeared to be sick of the fever. There were cases, also, of other maladies, which in Central America are not opprobrious. I think the whole population here is "scrofulous" in the tertiary manner. This people have no idea of modesty, but, strange to say, are not impure in their habits. It is the constitutional taint of the entire Indian and mixed races that renders cholera and other epidemics so destructive. Life is short and feeble.
At the hacienda of San Lorenzo a beautiful young woman was brought in by her father with a pitiful face, to be cured of fissures in the soles of the feet. It was a three-hours' operation to remove the inch-thick callosities and the false membranes from the fissures. The girl called for a cigar, and sat looking steadily at me the whole time without shrinking or groaning, but very pale. The father suffered more than the patient. I should not have ventured upon so serious an operation under such circumstances had it not been for the earnest solicitation of Colonel Cole, whose compassionate heart continually led him into acts of spontaneous kindness and liberality toward the natives. Mistaking the cause of my hesitation, he offered me his horse, the best in the country, and worth at least two hundred and fifty dollars, if I would perform the operation. I hope the reader will not suspect me of having accepted the offer.
The day after leaving San Lorenzo we turned northward, and passed the first range of mountains. Scenery magnificent. Southward the Lake, the Lagoon Mountain, volcano of Massaya, and the Island of Ometepé: before us a sea of hills. On the summit we passed a long low wall, like a New England "stone-fence," the only one of that kind in this region, where the estates are sometimes ten miles in extent, and have no fixed boundaries. In the deep valleys on the other side lay Comalapa, a "county town." Looking down from the hills upon Comalapa, one thousand feet below us, we saw the women and children running in all directions. At San Lorenzo we had been told that a force of one hundred natives, well armed, under the lead of a Chomorro, were awaiting us. Expecting an ambuscade, we capped our rifles, and charging along the winding road at full trot, galloped into the Plaza, and rode up to the house of the Padre. All was still. The inhabitants had left almost to a man. The two alcaldes were off in the woods. The priest, protected by his sanctity, remained, and was too polite by half. After resting an hour to dine we rode on, and crossing two ranges of mountains reached the high table-land of Comapa. On the summit of the first range, five miles from Comalapa, while traveling along the edge of an immense ravine, we saw a company of armed horsemen observing us from the bold summit of the mountains on the left side of the ravine. Our men were violently excited by the view, supposing this to be a portion of a larger force who were riding forward to cut us off in the valley beyond. They closed their ranks and rode forward eagerly for two miles, hoping to see a party in advance, and straining their eyes for the first trace of them. But they did not choose to appear. We had heard the alarm-horns in all directions, raising the country, since we came in sight of Comalapa.
Ascending from one of the most beautiful grassed valleys in the world, we scaled the steep edge of the great table-land which feeds the waters of the Rios Mico and Bluefields; and here, resting our wearied animals, we remained for half an hour, in a silence broken only by exclamations of wonder and delight, gazing upon a prospect that, for extent and magnificence, has not its parallel on the continent. At a distance of twenty-five leagues west and north, rose up against the sunset the wonderful Matagalpa chain, its immensely high, isolated, and bare peaks, like shark's teeth, apparently without foothills, rising from a bed of unbroken forests, undulating and misty. Beyond there was no horizon, or only land and sky blended, seen through the deep jags of these rocky teeth, whose flat tables set up edgewise resembled in shape icebergs, or, rather, flat and broken fields of ice turned upon their edges. The first peak terminating the range was separated form the rest by a low interval. The chain made off to the northeast, blending with the hills of eastern Segovia on the Wanks River Valley.
Before us the grass land stretched fair and level from our feet, sinking gradually on the left, and on the right rising at a distance of four miles, into hills covered with foliage. I do not think we saw less than ten thousand head of cattle from this point, and countless herds of horses. The plain was alive with them, moving in all directions. In the centre of this grassy level we could just discern the Indian village of Comapa buried in orange and mango trees. The alarm-horns sounded as we rode into the village, but the people were not armed. The two alcaldes, dressed in white, and bearing gold-headed canes, the staff of magistracy, came out to meet us at the head of a procession of the citizens, all dressed in loose white jackets and trowsers, with feet bare and a straw hat. The alcalde made a ceremonious speech of welcome; informed us that we were the second party of white men who had ever penetrated so far into the interior. He led us to the "stranger's house," and brought us food with his own hands, attended by a procession of Indian boys, THE PASS OF LABAGISCA. each with a dish. These people were innocent and harmless, strangely ignorant of the outer world, and acknowledging any government that might choose to regard them as its subjects. The village was large enough for eight hundred persons. Two-thirds of the houses had been emptied by the cholera, which desolated the interior of Central America in 1855. There were only about three hundred left in Comapa. The wealth of these broad-featured, flat-nosed Indian tribes is in corn and cattle. They are all rich in the fruits of the earth. The climate is cool at Comapa. It must be at least 2000 feet above the ocean.
That night I had a violent chill. Colonel Cole got up from the ground where he was sleeping, and covered me with coats and blankets. I shook for A TALK WITH SEÑOR ZELAYA. two hours, and the subsequent fever was violent. It was an ephemera, and yielded to cathartic and sour oranges. Riding the next day was like the discipline of a fuller's hammer; every bone ached. In thirty-six hours I was well.
The ride east by south from Comapa to Juigalapa, thirty miles, over two ranges of mountains, separated by green cattle-valleys, offered nothing worthy of remembrance. We followed an obscure trail. The Indians at Comapa knew nothing of Juigalpa; they did not know into which ocean their rivers flowed. Juigalpa, town and district, is the Switzerland of Chontales; but the scenery, though grand, is monotonous. The people, as usual, fled at our approach; but the priests seemed WAITING FOR THE ENEMY AT SAN JOSÉ to think that we should find an army at Acoyapa—the military and civil capital of Chontales, and the home of political refugees.
Remaining only an hour in Juigalpa, we rode on to a hacienda ten miles further, and passed the night. We were now in the heart of the enemy's country, and the utmost vigilance and celerity of movement had become necessary. The party of deserters who had preceded us had excited the inhabitants against the Americans by seizing without ceremony whatever they could carry away. Saddles, bridles, spurs, blankets, clothing, tobacco, rice, ponchos, choice horses and mules, nothing portable had come amiss to these robbers, with whom the least violence or indiscretion on our part would have identified us.
We rode in the low channels of the rivers and along cattle trails, stopping at all the haciendas and hattios belonging to large proprietors. The object of the expedition was accomplished when a written order had been left with the mantador or steward of each estate, requiring a certain number of cattle to be sent to Granada as a contribution for the war against the Leonese.
The gate which leads out from the Aline valleys of the Juigalpa chain is a narrow pass in the mountains, called the "Portal de Labagisca." It looks eastward over the prairie of Acoyapa, which is a continuation of that line of prairie which borders Lake Nicaragua on the north, commencing at Mesapa. The view from the pass of Labagisca is wide and pleasing. About two hundred feet below us, on a small piece of table-land, jutting out from the side of the mountain like a platform, stood the town of Labagisca, with its ancient church of hewn stone—the only one of that material in Eastern Nicaragua. The churches, like the houses, are built of adobé—The Egyptian sun-dried brick, of mud and straw. *
On a still lower level—perhaps three hundred feet down—lay the general surface of the grand prairie, enlivened by groves and herds. Three miles east from the foot of the platform of rock which supports Labagisca was the town of Acoyapa, the bell-towers of its great church and the red tiles of the houses rising above the groves of orange and mango. The town stands upon a bed of diluvium, with a rocky nucleus, a little raised above the general surface of the plain. The rocky strata of Chontales, leaning or dipping downward toward the southwest at various angles, did not seem to me different in age or character from those rocks which compose the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada, in California. They have a large proportion of argil and iron ore, and disintegrate readily. Their inclinations are in general very slight, the escarpments facing the north and northeast being steep, and tabled like a stairway—sometimes in a remarkable manner—producing natural walls and defenses, over which our men disputed long whether they were natural or artificial; so regularly were the weathered blocks laid along the edge of the natural esplanade above the valleys.
The bells of Labagisca and Acoyapa began to ring the alarm the instant the first horseman of our party made his appearance in the pass. Horsemen were seen galloping over the plain toward Acoyapa. We rode through the silent and deserted streets of Labagisca, and descending the steep mule-path to the prairie, rode at our utmost speed toward Acoyapa, made a detour to the left, and galloped into the Plaza. The inhabitants, a well-dressed and prosperous-looking people, were gathered in knots at the doors, and under the porticos of their houses. It was about noon, and the sun came fiercely down. The Colonel having been informed of the unfriendly disposition of the people, gave orders for every man to be in readiness to mount at a moment's warning, and for no one to leave the portico of the Cabildo, or guard-house, where we had fastened the animals. Opposite the Cabildo, across the clean and lively-looking Plaza, stood the respectable mansion of Señor Zelaya, the chief dignitary of the place, who, with the Alcalde, a fair, smooth-spoken, and very inquisitive gentleman, came over to greet and converse with us. An invitation was immediately extended to Colonel Cole and "the Doctor" to dine with the affable Señor Zelaya. The Colonel, for a reason which I afterward discovered was a very good one, declined the courtesy, and deputed Captain Hoof in his place. The Alcalde ordered a dinner of beef and plantains to be sent to the party, the horses were supplied with sacate (coarse grass), and every body—natives, Señor Zelaya, the padre, Alcalde, and all—appeared to be in the highest possible spirits. A few moments after our entrance, I saw the Alcalde talking apart with the Teniente, or captain of our natives, who regarded him in silence, and with a gloomy frown. This Teniente was a man far above the ordinary class of Indian rangers, or vaqueros, and felt a sincere regard for Colonel Cole and myself. Very soon I saw the Colonel seated at the table with his notebook before him, in the inner room of the Cabildo in earnest conversation with a native who I knew at Granada, a captain, formerly, in the army of Castillon. Captain Hoof and I went over to Zelaya's house. As we passed before the church, I went in, and listened awhile to the glorious music of the mass, supported by violins, violincellos, and hautboys. Soon after I joined the party at Señor Zelaya's, who, having once been in New York, spoke some English, and I a little Spanish. I was introduced to a very handsome woman as his wife. She was surrounded with a family of children, by far the most beautiful I had seen in this country. The dinner was good, the cigars on the portico excellent, the conversation very polite. Señor Zelaya, a tall, handsome man, appeared to be in all respects a gentleman, well educated, and a man of the world. We talked freely of politics. He intimated that Walker could not maintain his ground. Señor Zelaya appeared very anxious to have Colonel Cole join us at his table. He sent three pressing messages to him, was troubled and evidently disturbed in mind because he did not come. We had been there about half an hour, when a message came from the Colonel to us, ordering us instantly to horse. We went rather leisurely, however, and found him stamping with impatience at our slowness. In a moment we were in the saddle, and galloped off in an easterly direction for about a mile; then making a sudden turn to the right, moved as fast as our animals would carry us toward the shore of the lake, and out upon the wide prairie toward Mesapa and San Lorenzo.
At night it rained heavily. About dusk, Colonel Cole informed me privately that "two hundred armed natives and the twenty-five deserters under Turley had been waiting for us at a Chomorro hacienda, two miles from Acoyapa; that Señor
*Adobés cost about $5 a thousand. They are about 20 X 10 X 8 inches—the best material for the climate. [begin surface 552]Zelaya and his friends wished to have destroyed us all; that we were now on our way back to Granada by the coast road, to avoid the ambuscades in the mountains, placed there to intercept our return." We rode all that night and the succeeding day in a heavy rain. The two succeeding nights our guide misled us, and we wandered in swamps and thickets in a darkness so profound I could not see the white mule of Captain Hoof, who rode before me. The men frequently fell, or were dragged off their horses by the trees; and at one point we passed a considerable part of the night in extricating ourselves from an extensive quagmire. The last day and night before reaching San Lorenzo, our party were twenty-five hours in the saddle. It was the accident of losing our way that threw our pursuers off the track. They posted themselves in force to cut us off at the Chomorro hacienda, and would have swept off our little party of ten at the first fire, had not Colonel Cole been aware of their plans, and led us away by the lake road. They pursued us across the prairies; but supposing that we had gone into the mountains, were misled, losing the night trail. While crossing the grand prairie beyond the hacienda Candelaria the day after leaving Acoyapa, we saw two horsemen galloping after us at full speed. Colonel Cole rode back to meet them. They informed us that they were on their way to the hills for concealment, and that the Chomorristos were in full force within two hours' ride in hot pursuit. Colonel Cole immediately took possession of the hacienda of San José, which stands on a hill overlooking the prairie in the direction of the advancing party. We waited for them two hours, expecting a fight, then mounted, and rode on. It was a bad movement to remain there, as the place was not tenable; but the men could not bear the idea of a retreat, and simply calculated how many of the natives they could kill before being shot themselves. At San Lorenzo and Mesapa, on the return, we heard that the pursuing party went up to Juigalpa and Comalapa, thinking we would have taken the mountain road. I think they were willing to avoid us, as we were nine good riflemen, and in good position would have killed fifty of them, while they could have dispatched only ten of us, including "the Doctor." The return from Mesapa was simply a journey without incident.
One of the illustrations of this article represents the fall of myself and mule down a steep place into the mire. The mule and I put up our heads and looked at each other to see which was the greatest sufferer, I suppose, and then, after a few struggles, we succeeded in getting out. The artist has made the precipice appear somewhat higher than natural—it was not more than fifteen feet—but the fall was tremendous. We "killed" a great number of mules and horses, but no men, in this expedition.
PRODUCT OF THE MEXICAN MINES.—The total exports of the precious metals from Mexico, between 1825 and 1851, a period of twenty-six years, was $237,026,031, an average of nearly ten millions of dollars annually. Judging from the very large shipments constantly made at all the ports of the Republic, on the Pacific and in the Gulf alike, the exports the present year will far exceed that amount. The mines were never in a more prosperous state.
square, often containing 50,000 people. The population was 300,000. The city was connected with the mainland by causeways of earth and stone, one of which was seven miles long. The palace of the emperor was magnificent. The chief temple was of vast extent; and here the bloody rites of Mexican superstition were performed. Human victims, consisting of captives taken in war, were here sacrificed in such numbers as to make the place seem like a slaughter-house. On the lake around Mexico were hundreds of floating gardens, covered with flowers and vegetables. One hundred thousand canoes plied upon its waters; and along its borders were no less than fifty cities. Cortez having obtained information of the wealth of this empire, determined to proceed to the capital. Persuading large numbers of the Tlascalans to join his little army, he marched toward Mexico. As he approached, Montezuma sent him rich presents, and endeavored to persuade him to quit the country. He, however, advanced boldly; and, as he entered the capital, was received with imposing ceremony by the king. Nothing could exceed the astonishment of the Spaniards at witnessing the abundance of gold, silver, and precious stones in the city. Incited by avarice, Cortez laid his plans deeply, and proceeded to overturn the empire. He seized the person of the king, who soon after died of a wound. A fierce contest followed, and the Spaniards were driven from the city. They speedily returned, and, aided by their Indian allies, made themselves masters of the place. The great empire of Montezuma Mexican Soldiers. fell to pieces, and the whole territory became a Spanish province. Thus it continued for nearly 300 years. In 1810 the Mexicans rose against the Spanish dominion; and, after ten years of varying fortune, they became independent. In 1824 they adopted a constitution similar to that of the United States. Notwithstanding this, it has been perpetually distracted by civil war, promoted by rival military leaders aiming at dominion. Texas separated itself from the republic in 1835, and Yucatan in 1841. In 1846, Mexico became involved in a war with the United States, chiefly owing to a dispute about Texas. Severe battles were fought at Palo Alto on the 8th of May, and at Resaca de la Palma on the 9th. In both of these the Americans, led by General Taylor, were victorious. Monterey, a large town in the north, near the Rio Grande, capitulated to the Americans on the 24th. In March, 1847, the town and castle of Vera Cruz were taken, and General Scott marched toward the capital. At Cerro Gordo he obtained a complete victory over the enemy on the 17th of April. Thence he marched onward, successively occupying the cities of Jalapa and Puebla. Nearly all the towns on the coast were now in the possession of the Americans. On the 17th of February, General Taylor, with 4000 men, met Santa Anna at Buena Vista with 20,000, beating and scattering the entire force. In August General Scott approached the capital. Several desperate battles followed; but on the 15th of September the Americans entered Mexico, and took possession of that capital. Negotiations followed, and peace was ratified in 1848. By this the Rio Grande and Gila were fixed as the boundaries between the two countries; and in 1854 an additional territory was ceded to the United States.
24. Ancient History.—The Mexicans, in the time of Cortez, had a recorded history which reported that the first inhabitants of the country came from the north, doubtless across Behring's Straits. Settling down in the Mexican valley, they became a rich and civilized people, cultivating the soil, building cities, and fostering various arts. These were called Toltecs. After a time they were driven southward by a warlike people from the north, called Aztecs. These established themselves in the country, and founded the Mexican empire of Montezuma.
25. Antiquities.—The Spaniards destroyed most of the Mexican records, or picture-writings, superstitiously regarding them as cabalistic. A few of these, however, remain, which show that they recorded events by paintings on skins. An ancient calendar was found, carved in porphyry; besides many other curious relics of ancient art. The territory of Mexico is scattered over with interesting vestiges of the ancient inhabitants. Among these is the Pyramid of Cholula, which is the largest of the kind in the word. Pyramids, or teocœlli, are still numerous, most of which are supposed to be the work of the Aztecs. There are interesting ruins at Mitla, twenty-six miles east of Oaxaca. Near Palenque, on the border of Yucatan, are the ruins of a great city, among which are many beautiful and interesting sculptures. These, with other ruins in Guatemala and Yucatan, were probably the work of the Toltecs, who established themselves here after their expulsion from the Mexican valley.
26. Yucatan, the richest of the Mexican states, is a peninsula between the bays of Campeachy and Honduras. It is a level country, parched with drought at one season, and inundated by water at another. It abounds in cattle, and produces sugar, coffee, &c. Merida is the capital. Uxmal, 45 miles southeast, presents ruins of a city whose history is lost in the obscurity of past ages. The remains of one edifice are 640 feet long, and 410 wide, and are elaborately sculptured. The people of Yucatan have several times declared themselves independent.
27. The Balize is a strip of land along the east side of Yucatan, where the British have a colony. The country produces logwood, fustic, braziletto, sarsaparilla, cedar, cotton, indigo, &c. Wild animals, birds, fish, and turtle are abundant. The inhabitants are chiefly Indians and negroes. The government is carried on by a superintendent appointed by the queen, with magistrates elected by the people. The white inhabitants are few. Balize, the capital, has a large trade, and is surrounded by a cocoa-nut plantation. The population, chiefly composed of negroes, with some Indians, is about 10,000.
22. Education? 23. History? War with the U. S.? 24 Ancient History? 25. Antiquities? 26. Yucatan? 27. The Balize?
1. Characteristics.—This is a small state, lying between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific, on the isthmus which unites North and South America. It is about 600 miles long, and from 100 to 400 miles wide.
2. Mountains.—A lofty chain of mountains, forming a part of the great Mexican and Rocky Mountain Range, traverses the country. It extends along the western coast not far from the Pacific, and presents a series of twenty volcanic summits in constant activity. This part of the country is subject to the most tremendous convulsions of nature, which have buried cities in ruins, and destroyed whole tribes of people. The volcano of Agua, and that of Fuego, both near Guatimala, rise to the hight of from 12,000 to 15,000 feet.
3. Rivers.—The largest rivers flow down the eastern declivity of the mountains into the Caribbean Sea. There are none of great extent, but several are navigable. The Motagua flows through the state of Guatimala; the San Juan, sixty miles long, forms the outlet of Lake Nicaragua.
4. Lakes.—Lake Nicaragua, 120 miles in length by 41 in breadth, is navigable for the largest vessels, and receives the waters of Lake Leon, which is ten miles to the northwest, by a navigable river. Lake Leon is but five miles from the Tosta, which runs into the Pacific Ocean. In the state of Guatimala is Lake Yzibal, communicating with the Bay of Honduras.
5. Coasts and Bays.—To the north, between Honduras and the Mexican state of Yucatan, lies the large Bay of Honduras, the navigation of which is rendered dangerous by numerous reefs and keys. On this bay is the English settlement of Balize: to the east, extending along the Caribbean Sea for 300 miles, is the territory of the Mosquito Indians.
6. Soil, Climate, Products, &c.—The soil is, in general, good; the climate exhibits the same variety as in the Mexican States. The productions of agriculture are also similar, including indigo, tobacco, cochineal, cotton, wheat, maize, &c. Among the native vegetation, are mahogany, cedar, logwood, Brazil-wood, dragon's-blood, mastic, and various balsamic and medicinal plants. Tamarinds, cassia, pepper, and ginger, are cultivated. The fruits are various and abundant.
7. Animals.—Among these are the American tiger, wolf, tapir, wild goat, wild boar, zorillo, and smaller quadrupeds. Alligators and serpents infest the wooded coasts. Birds of beautiful plumage abound. Locusts and ants appear in millions. The domestic animals are numerous, being easily raised on the table-lands.
8. Minerals.—Gold and silver abound, especially in the states of Honduras and Costa Rica; copper, iron, lead, mica, zinc, and antimony are also plentiful.
9. Face of the Country.—Guatimala consists of a triangular territory, with its longest line upon the Pacific. The Cordilleras, consisting of snow-capped peaks rising upon lofty table-lands, extend along the whole western coast. On both sides, the country descends in terraces, spreading out into plains and low flats to the east.
10. Divisions.—Central America is composed of five independent states, which are divided into partidos, or districts. This table lists the five districts of Central America and includes the Population of the District, the capital city, and the population of the capital city.
11. Canal.—A ship-canal is in progress, 278 miles long, to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It begins at the mouth of the River San Juan, flowing between the states of Nicaragua and Costa Rica, and runs obliquely, northwest, to Realejo, on the Pacific. It is to be open to all nations, being under the guaranty of the United States, Great Britain, and the contiguous states of Costa Rica
LESSON LXXIII. 1. Characteristics of Guatimala? 2 Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Lakes? 5. Coasts and bays? 6. Soil, climate, and products? 7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Face of the country? 10. Divisions? 11. Canal? 12. Towns? [begin surface 557]On the afternoon of the 27th the highest rise of the tide will take place, and may probably be equalled by that of the 25th, if the N. and N. E. breezes do not abate its force, which is scarcely to be expected. Both high tides will fully reach the limits set down by Capt. Kellett, of H. B. M.'s ship Herald, of twenty two feet rise.
Several lots of rifles shipped for the use of the Peruvian government were still at Panama, the Pacific Steamship Company having refused to carry them lest General Vivanco would seize the vessel.
Very high tides were expected in the bay of Panama The Panama Herald of the 19th instant, publishes the following communication on the subject:—As the sun crosses the equinoxial line on the 20th, and as on the 25th, the day of the new moon, there will be a central eclipse of the sun at almost the hour, of high water at Panama; as, moreover, the moon reaches her perigee on the 26th, and makes one of her nearest approaches to the earth, all these combined will occasion a powerful and unusual tidal motion in the Gulf of Panama, as well as a corresponding one in the atmosphere, proceeding from east to west. It will also most probably produce a revival of the abated northerly breeze, inclining on the north coast of the Gulf to N. E., and even to E. N. E, most likely in gusts from the deep valley comprised between the Altos of Pacora and the high land east of Chepo, over the Chiman district; which, added to the volume of our current sweeping that coast all the year round, will produce a heavy swell, and probably an exceedingly high tide.
The Tiempo of Bogota, of 10th ultimo, announces that Mr. Morao had submitted to the Executive the following articles as the basis of his instructions:—
The sum is not stated.
The Tiempo argues that New Granada is in no way bound to make any reparation for the 15th of April. It however admits that the conduct of Governor Fabrega, in retiring after having given the order to fire on the station, has not been sufficiently explained or inquired into In this we agree with the Tiempo.
We learn that the government has promptly and positively refused Mr. Morse's proposition; that he had requested that they might be reconsidered, but that there was not the least prospect of the decision being altered.
In Congress the bill introduced by the Secretary of State, expressive of the adhesion of New Granada to the points of international law laid down at the Conference of Paris, has been rejected, the House feeling more inclined to adopt the views of the United States government on the subject, as contained in Secretary Marcy's letter of the 28th of July, 1856.
The House of Representatives threw out, on the second reading, the bill proposed by the Secretary of State, declaring citizens of the other Republics of South America entitled to citizenship in New Granada.
The Senate threw out, on the third reading, the bill to make all the ports on the Pacific Coast free, and the treaty of commerce and territorial boundary between New Granada and Ecuador.
The Secretary of State, on being asked by Congress to state whether the propositions published in the Tiempo were made by Mr. Morse, refused to answer the question, and likewise refused to comply with a formal demand of the house to procure copies of the documents.
In the House of Representatives, the bill proposed by the Secretary of State for the settlement of the Mackintosh claims passed the third reading.
Per steamer Dee we are in receipt of Bogota papers to February 19. The most important matter which we find treated of in them is that of the difficulties between the United States and New Granada. At latest dates nothing had been accomplished. The propositions of Mr. Morse, the special Envoy of the United States, were under secret consideration, in conference of him and Mr. Bowita, the Resident Minister of the United States at Bogota, with Srs. Lino de Pombo and Florentino Gonzales, Commissioners Plenipotentiary for the New Granadian government. There seemed to be but little chance of an acceptance of any arrangement that might be made in said conference by the New Granadian Congress; and although nothing was positively known of the propositions of Mr. Morse, the reception of such publication of what was deemed to be the substance of them, as had been made, leaves little room to hope for an amicable arrangement. The tone of the press and of the majority in Congress is of the bitterest opposition.
The position of Mr. Morse and the character of his mission is such that an allowance of unnecessary delay would not be admissible, and he would be compelled to demand an answer peremptorily if the deliberations of the aforesaid conference should be prolonged beyond a reasonable time. During the prevalence of the manifest tone existent there, at our latest advices, such urgency would ensure an answer in the negative. Finally, Mr. Morse's presentations are not, strictly speaking, propositions—they are demands, and as such, have to be speedily acceded to or refused; and a negative answer must be followed by the return of the messenger of demand to the power that sent him. Upon the consequence of such a result we need not suggest or speculate, for they are patent to most of our readers.
We most earnestly hope that Mr. Morse will soon be among us, en route for Washington, with the acceptance or denial of his "propositions" or demands, and that the Isthmus may thus be relieved of the injurious suspense that has seriously retarded our every interest since the opening of the railroad.
If the "propositions" are similar to those published in Bogota, the result of the mission must be highly advantageous to us in any event; for if resolved by concession, nothing less would be accepted, and if resort to the alternative of force should be had, much more would be secured. But this probability does not so much incite us to the desire to see the end of the matter as the anxiety for a determination of our position and a certainty of permanent government.
We have received the following letter from Mr. Perry, H. B. M.'s Consul, in reference to the remarks made in the Star and Herald of the 5th, about his having refused to take the evidence of two British subjects who went to depose relative to having seen the dead body of an American woman near the railroad station, immediately after the massacre of the 15th of April last:—
BRITISH CONSULATE, Panama, March 6, 1857.In your leading article of yesterday, respecting Sr. Pombo's report to Congress you state that "a respectable British subject went to my office to depose before me that he had seen the body of a murdered woman lying on the track after the massacre of the 15th of April, and that I ordered the said witness out of my office, and returned to take his testimony, and that when another British subject went to confirm the statement, I professed not to think him worthy of credit, and refused his evidence."
Both these statements are incorrect. On the last day of April, Consul Ward sent a Jamaica man, named Clare, with a request that I would take his declaration respecting a woman and child he had seen murdered near the railroad station, between the hours of two and four A. M. of the 10th of April.
I took Clare's declaration, and the document probably forms part of Consul Ward's report on the sad affair,
On the following day Mr. Silvers, a respectable old gentleman, called at this office, and declared he had seen a woman lying murdered in the freight house of the railroad company, about 4 A. M. of the 16th of April.
I considered this matter so important that I immediately addressed the Governor on the subject, recommending that proper steps should be taken to discover the perpetrator of this horrible crime.
Sr. Gambos, the active and worthy Prefect, made a searching inquiry in the matter, and I was assured that there was no truth in the statements of either Clare or Silvera. It is supposed that the latter saw a young man who afterwards recovered, and mistook him for a female.
Respecting Jack Oliver, I can only say that I saw his name mentioned in a California newspaper as having been nearly lynched on his passage to San Francisco for his conduct on the 15th of April. I am, sir, your obedient servant,
The files of the Gaceta Oficial of Bagota, received by the last mail, contain the statement of Sor. Rubio, the Consul of Peru, in this city, relative to the events of the 15th of April. It is stated that it was overlooked when the report of the Secretary was published.
As this document is much too lengthy to translate and give a place to in our columns, we shall content ourselves by pointing out a few of the errors into which Mr. Rubio has fallen.
Sr. Rubio states that it was a dark night, when every one who remembers that fatal evening knows that it was bright moonlight. Of this fact, at least, Sr. Rubio might easily have convinced himself without being at the scene of the massacre.
All we have to say is, once more to repeat that these consular reports are of no value or importance, as they do not even embody (except in one instance) any evidence officially taken by the gentlemen who make them, and we believe that they will have very little weight with the United States government, whose attempts to obtained a pacific settlement of the question appear to be all in vain, for from the course pursued by New Granada in now denying that any reparation is due for the events of that fatal night, and that no blame rests with any of the people, we should not be surprised to find that in six months (if the negotiations last so long) the executive at Bogota will be found ready to assert that no riot or massacre of any kind took place on the 15th of April, 1856, and that the whole affair is a base invention of the Americans, and a shallow pretext for the United States government to pick a quarrel about the Isthmus.
Some persons, either through ignorance or mischief, having spread among the lower orders of the population a report that General Mosquera had been compelled by order of the United States government to leave the United States, and that his son was kept as a hostage, pending the settlement of the questions between this country and the United States, we deem it our duty to state that Gen Mosquera's departure from New York arises entirely from mercantile difficulties, in which his house in New York has become involved, and that his son is only detained by order of the Court to answer in certain civil suits brought against the firm. It is impossible to reprobate too strongly the mischievous practice of circulating such rumors at a time when the public mind is so excited.
Please give publicity to the following interesting facts:—During my late stay at David, department of Chiriqui, I met a gentleman from Los Moros, who presented me with an ounce of gold dust, washed in the neighborhood of Pueblo Nuevo, situated near said port. Although it is well known that gold was found there in former periods it seems, according to trustworthy reports, that a rich and hitherto unknown tract of alluvial soil has been latterly discovered.
It has already attracted the attention of the neighboring population, and many persons are by this time occupied in exploring this new auriferous region Should reports continue to be favorable, no doubt many a hardy California miner might feel induced to make a trial, and as persevering intelligence always commands success they will have the best chance of reaping a fair reward for their labor.
The most remarkable event during the first fortnight of the month of February is the meeting of the Valparaiso and Santiago Railroad. The line as far as Quilota, a distance of 32 3/4 miles, is almost completely finished, and will be opened to the public at the end of March; the only exception is the San Pedro Tunnel, which excavation has been contracted for in the sum of $160,000, but in the meantime a provisional road will be constructed over the hill, and a stationary engine will be placed there to raise the trains up the ascent. The total sum invested up to the present moment in the portion of the line as far as Quilota, amounts to $4,160,912 11, which is an average cost of $124, 012 25 per mile The Board of Directors gave as their opinion the following advice:—That the present company limit their efforts to the termination of the line as far as Quilota, and from thence to Santiago, the work be continued exclusively at the expense of government, who is empowered to raise a loan for this purpose.
Sr D. Francisco Lianos has been named Consul for chile in Valencia (Spain), and Sr. D. Manuel Antonto Cordovez has obtained the same nomination in Bogota—(New Granada).
Public attention is excited by the report that President Castilla was getting down to Peru a lot of California filibusters to help him defeat Vivanco. They fear it will lead to the seizure of Peru and Chile by the Yankees, as resulted in Nicaragua.
The harvest abundant, but prices low. Copper mining doing well
The British Brig Cuba arrived in port of Valparaiso from Shields in 151 days, reports that the British ship Lord John Bentinck, from Shields for San Francisco, had been lost, going down in 40 degrees, south latitude, and 50 degrees west longitude. Of the crew, sixteen men were saved by the Cuba and taken to the Malvinas Islands.
The price of copper has taken a rise. The mines are worked with more care than ever before.
Freights still keep up, say £4 per ton.
The English iron ship from Don Diego made an extraordinary passage, sixty-four days from Liverpool to Valparaiso
The Monarch arrived at Valparaiso, and on the 7th of February, Admiral Bruce and his secretary proceeded in the steamer Lima to Callao, finding H. B. M. 's steamer Pearl at Chincha Islands; H. B. M.'s ships Tribune, President, and Cockatrice, and French frigate Perseverance flying the admiral's flag, and the French steamer Lavoisier at Callao.
I am sorry to inform you that it is impracticable for me to continue as correspondent of the HERALD, because we have no mail communication with Lima. Last year the Post Office of Lima received letters for the United States until an order to the contrary was received from the British Consul. Since that time they have refused to receive letters to the United States, saying they do not know why the English Consul gave such an order. Thus the Americans here are compelled to go to Callao and mail their letters.
You may be a little surprised to see that the English Consul has power to refuse American letters in the Post Office of Lima. It certainly presents quite a gloomy picture—a country that is so weak as to let other governments meddle in its domestic affairs. And you may be still more surprised to know that our Minister does not correct our evils. If Peru had a contract with the British line of steamers to carry our mails, or if the United States had such a treaty, and it has expired, our Minister should feel enough interest for his countrymen to have the said contract renewed and save us the trouble and expense of making a journey to mail a letter.
Chili still marches in the road of peace and progress. She has appropriated $1,000 to begin the construction of a telegraph between Santiago and Taica; and in Valparaiso is about to begin a new wharf, to extend far enough into deep water for vessels to come alongside and load or discharge, and also to construct a breakwater before the port to protect the bay from heavy waves.
Bolivia now enjoys peace, an insurrection just being suppressed, and a great many influential men exiled. It is said that Bolivia is aiding Castilla, sending arms and munitions.
The revolution of Peru by Gen. Vivanco is progressing a little. He appears to have decidedly the advantage now. You doubtless knew he has all the steam ships of war, except one, the Ucayali, which is cabled to the wharf in Callao. In December, Vivanco left Islay with his ships of war, and suddenly appeared in the bay before Callao. After staying several days, and capturing two or three sail vessels he sailed for the North, leaving the steamer Apurimac in Callao He sent several armed launches to take possession of the Ucayali; they captured her, under a heavy fire of musketry and cannon from the shore and was towing her off, when a strong breeze sprang up ahead and overpowered them. The Apurimac has since tried to take the Ucayali, but the Apurimac being very large could not get so near shore. In the first engagement about twenty were killed, in the second some ten or fifteen. The Ucayali has several cannon shots entirely through her Vivanco at present is in the north, with a force of 600 or 700 men, and what is a little curious he has more than 800 officers around him, doubtless waiting to organize more forces. He has retaken several places, and the government troops have retreated far in the interior to Caljamarca.
A small body of the revolutionists were defeated at Huaras, but it is believed that the city will be taken soon by the main body of the troops.
The yellow fever is very severe in the North.
Lawless bands of negroes are killing defenceless people and sacking their houses.
In the Chincha Islands Vivanco has a man-of-war stationed to protect the guano against the government. There is little change in the south. The departments of Arequipe, Moquequa, &c, continue for Vivanco, but Gen. San Roman is arming a formidable force in Cuzco to march against these departments. A very strange phenomena has transpired in the south, that is a very heavy rain. In these sandy deserts a drop of water rarely falls, but recently they have had such a heavy rain that it destroyed many houses, the roots being flat, and created such a flood in the valleys as to wash away several houses and destroy many plantations. This frightened the people as much as the shower of earth that fell over the city of Quito from the surrounding volcanoes
Castilla's position is rendered less hopeful by the emptiness of the treasury. To pay the salary of the officers of the government for the last month he had to borrow of the English, so that this month they may expect to go unpaid, which will doubtless produce no little discontent.
The convention has declared free of duty the most important articles of sustenance, so that Castilla has very little resource from commerce.
The convention is still prolonging its session, but doing little. Castilla wanted them to adjourn, and leave him to prosecute the war to his own liking, but they love the far places too well to abandon them.
[Lima (Feb. 24) Correspondence of Panama Herald.]Several vessels from Chile are loading or stealing guano from the Chincha Islands, and, as they say, having bought it from the agents of Vivanco at from $18 to $25 per ton, and, no doubt, much less, as the Vivanco party are hard pushed for money.
The Peruvian frigate Apurimac remains off the fort midway between the Lorenzo and Callao, having taken a few days previous to the 13 gun brig Guise, which was holding out in favor of Castilla; but as a sailing vessel had no chance with a steamer in a calm the captain, officers and crew, in order to make their service available for Castilla, left the brig in the boats and landed at Calloa, leaving the Guise in possession of the Apurimac, which vessel looking in a horrid condition, and apparently was making water, as the pumps were going when the Lima passed her, and being short of provisions, they cannot be in an enviable position.
The Vivanco's party on shore are doing nothing, as a counter revolution sprang up in Lima, which place was attacked on the 25th ult by a General Canacero, the person who has no less than four times the last four years changed his political opinions; on his side were 150 regular troops, to oppose about 300 artisans and mechanics of the town. They were driven back twice, and Canacero "bolted;" but a Colonel being with him, having a little more courage, ordered his troops on, and ultimately took the place, with about forty killed and sixty wounded.
The Los was in Paita, and in want of provisions and seamen. After coaling she will take Canacero to Lambayeque to join Vivanco, where it is their intention to attack and keep Truxillo, when, no doubt, General Laseos on Castilla's part will retire until he is joined by two battalions on the way from Lima, and probably will make themselves again master of the North.
It is generally believed the revolutionary party will not succeed, as every person who has had anything to do with Vivanco begins to see there is not that spirit and energy exercised as is requisite to carry it out. In short, the seamen on board and soldiers on shore, in despair begin to ask themselves what they had accomplished, and what they were likely to, and wanted to do something to drive away the everyday monotony of poor feeding and bad pay.
On account of the last revolutionary attempt many individuals were arrested, and several sentenced to death; but General Cordova commuted their sentences into banishment to the district of Beni. The fever continued its ravages, and in the province of Munecas more than a thousand Indians had perished; it was lately raging in La Paz. The project of a civil code had been presented to government by the committee named for this purpose. The effects of the amnesty decreed on the 26th of October had been suspended, and the Bolivian refugees were disbarred the entrance into the territory,
and Nicaragua. It will extend through Lakes Nicaragua and Leon. This is now a common route of travel across the country.
12. Chief Towns.—New Guatimala, the capital of the defunct republic, is in a fertile valley, which enjoys a delightful climate. It was built in 1774, in consequence of the almost entire destruction of Old Guatimala by an earthquake. The streets are broad, clean, and straight. The houses are generally low, on account of the frequency of earthquakes; they are provided with gardens and fountains. The cathedral, the government house, the archbishop's palace, the mint, and several of the churches are handsome buildings. The commerce and manufactures of the city are extensive. Old Guatimala, capital of the state of Guatimala has been several times destroyed by earthquakes, and lies between the volcanoes of Agua and Fuego. It suffered much from an earthquake in 1830. It formerly contained fifty or sixty churches, and several large convents, which are now in ruins. Its cathedral is one of the largest in America. Chiquimula, in the same state, is a place of large population. San Salvador, the capital of the state of the same name, is agreeably situated in the midst of fine indigo and tobacco plantations, and has an active commerce and extensive manufactures. Comayagua, the capital of Honduras, contains a college. Truxillo and Omoa, in the same state, have good harbors on the Bay of Honduras, but they are sickly. Leon, capital of Nicaragua, is regularly laid out and handsomely built, and contains a university and a cathedral. Nicaragua is the second town in the state. Realejo has an excellent port. San José and Cartago are the principal towns of Costa Rica.
13. Commerce.—Cochineal and indigo are the two staple productions, and furnish the largest articles of export. Gold, silver, cocoa, dogwood, sarsaparilla, hides, tortoise-shell, and balsam of Tolu, are also exported. The trade is carried on chiefly through Balize, by the Americans and English.
14. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants resemble those of the Mexican States; about one-fifth are Creoles, two-fifths mixed, and the remainder Indians, with a few negroes. Slavery is abolished. In the cities, the manners resemble those of Spain. The ladies wear the mantilla, and go abroad veiled. An embroidered veil, costly fan, and valuable jewels, are the pride of the ladies. The men love to ride on horses with rich trappings. The country people are poor, simple, and quiet—consisting mostly of Indians.
15. Religion.—The Catholic religion is established by law.
16. Government.—This was copied from that of the United States; but the General Government has now not even a nominal existence—the several states acting, in most matters, for themselves. Their governments are ostensibly republican.
17. Education.—A few of the upper classes have a tolerable education, but the masses are in the most abject state of ignorance.
18. History.—This country was conquered by Alvarado, who was sent hither immediately after the conquest of Mexico, by Cortez, in 1523. The natives, called Quiches, lived in cities, and some ruins of their works are yet visible. They had advanced nearly as far as the Mexicans in the arts. They made strenuous resistance to the Spaniards, but without avail. The province was erected by the Spaniards into a captain-generalship, by the name of Guatimala, and continued dependent upon Spain until 1821, when it declared itself independent. A constitution was adopted in 1824, but was annulled in 1846.
19. Mosquito Territory, or Mosquitia.—This is an extensive strip of land lying along the southeastern shore of the Bay of Honduras, and extending southward 300 miles along the Caribbean Sea. The people appear to be mostly in a state of barbarism, though the king has treaties with Great Britain, and is under her protection. The government is chiefly administered by the British residents. The land is fertile, and yields logwood, cotton, cacao, sugar, &c. The capital is Blewfields.
1. Characteristics.—The West Indies consist of numerous islands, lying between the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean Sea, and the Atlantic Ocean. They are composed of several clusters, known under the names of the Bahamas, the Greater Antilles (including Cuba, Hayti, Porto Rico, and Jamaica), the Lesser Antilles, and the Caribbee Islands. We shall also include here a view of the Bermudas, lying far to the north.
2. Productions.—The West Indies abound in all the productions of warm climates; the fruits are shaddocks, oranges, lemons, pine-apples, bananas, plantains, &c.; manioc, yams, maize, &c, with sugar, guava, cocoa, cotton, coffee, indigo, tobacco, &c., furnish important articles of food or of commerce. The forests contain mahogany, lignum-vitæ, iron-wood, and other woods useful in the arts.
3. Climate.—The climate of these islands is for a great part of the year mild and pleasant, the heat being in some measure moderated by the uniform length of the nights, and by refreshing sea-breezes. The seasons are divided between the wet and the dry; the former, occurring in May and October, are of short continuance, and during the rest of the year the sky is clear, and the nights remarkable for their brilliancy.
4. Hurricanes.—In the interval between the months of August and October, the islands are visited by those terrible storms, called hurricanes, to which the regions of the torrid zone are liable. They begin in various ways, but are in general preceded by a profound calm; this is soon followed by a chaos of warring elements, lightning and thunder, rain, hail, and impetuous blasts of wind, which move with a swiftness exceeding that of a cannon-ball. Corn, vines, forests, and houses are swept away before their violence, which, however, is but of short duration. These tempests are supposed to be of electric origin, and they serve the purpose of purifying the atmosphere.
5. Animals.—The native quadrupeds of the West Indies, when first discovered, included the agouti, peccary, raccoon, alco, or native Indian dog, and the wild boar. These are nearly extinct. Monkeys and lizards of various kinds are found. Sea-turtle are common along the shores. Macaws, parrots, wild Guinea-fowl, quails, pigeons, water-fowl, the humming-bird, mocking-bird, &c., are common.
6. Inhabitants.—The native races of these islands are now extinct. When first discovered by the Spaniards,
13. Commerce? 14. Inhabitants? 15. Religion? 16. Government? 17. Education? 18. History? 19 Mosquito Territory?
LESSON LXXIV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Productions? 3. Climate? 4. Hurricanes? 5. Animals? 6 Inhabitants?
[begin surface 560]they were inhabited by two distinct nations: the Arrowauks, a mild, peaceful, and numerous people, who had made some advances in civilization, occupied the Bahamas and the Great Antilles; and the Caribs, a fierce and war-like race, inhabited the more southerly isles. At a later period, many of the islands have, at different times, belonged to different European nations, and in some of them there is a strange mixture of people and languages. All except Hayti, still belong to European powers, and, excepting the English colonies, contain a large proportion of negro slaves. The whites are either Europeans or creoles, and form, comparatively, but a small part of the population. The different mixed races are numerous. It is probable that the population was greater at the time of their discovery than at present.
7. Political Condition, Extent, Population, &c.—The following table gives a view of the several islands: This table lists islands, the country that claims the island, extent, population, capital towns and population of capital towns.
1. Bahamas.—The Bahama or Lucaya Islands are a group lying to the southeast of Florida, from which they are separated by the Florida channel. They consist of about 650 islands and keys. The principal islands or groups, in passing from the southern to the northern extremity, are the following:
2. Bermudas.—To the northeast lie the Bermudas, a group of small islands of difficult access, and visited by terrible storms. Though not strictly belonging to the West Indies, these will be described here. They have a beautiful climate, and the soil yields every variety of tropical vegetation. The seas around are stored with fish, turtle,
7. Political condition of Cuba? Porto Rico? Hayti? &c., &c
LESSON LXXV. 1. The Bahamas? Their history?
[begin surface 561]and whales. The oysters on the rocks sometimes contain pearls. The nearest land to the Bermudas is North Carolina, from which they are 600 miles distant. They contain about 10,000 inhabitants. The capital, St. George, has a population of 3000; and the English, to whom these islands belong, have a naval and military station there. History.—These islands were discovered by Juan Bermuda, a Spaniard, who touched there in 1522. He found the islands entirely without inhabitants. Sir George Somers was wrecked here in 1609, on his way to Virginia. The party built two small vessels of cedar—one being entirely without iron, except a bolt in the keel. With these they proceeded to Virginia. Two sailors were left behind, who three years after were found, by a company of English who settled here, to be in good condition. The colony prospered; but in 1616, the rats became unusually numerous, and nearly desolated the islands. Five years after, they suddenly disappeared. In 1629, the population had increased to one thousand. A few years later, they numbered 10,000. Since their settlement, the Bermudas have remained in the hands of the English.
The Shaddock Tree.3. Cuba.—The largest and most valuable of the West India islands is Cuba, which belongs to Spain. It extends nearly from Florida to Yucatan, being separated from the one by the Florida stream, and from the other by the Cuba channel. It is 780 miles in length, and about 52 in mean breadth. Population, 800,000:—300,000 are whites; 300,000 negro slaves; and 200,000 free blacks. More than four-fifths of the surface is composed of low lands, but it is traversed in various directions by ranges of mountains, some of which rise to the hight of 7675 feet. There are no rivers of much magnitude, and some parts of the country are subject to droughts, yet the soil is in general fertile. The common cereal or bread grasses are cultivated with success, and the various tropical productions are abundant. The principal articles of export are tobacco, coffee, sugar, wax, and fruits. The tobacco is every where celebrated for its aromatic quality. The annual value of exports is about twenty millions of dollars. Chief towns.—Havana, the capital and principal city of the island, situated on the northern coast, is one of the largest and richest cities in America, and has one of the best harbors in the world. The public buildings are less remarkable for beauty than for solidity, and the streets are, in general, narrow, dirty, and unpaved. There are, however, fine public walks, and the palace of the governor, the theater, and some of the private houses, are handsome edifices. The entrance of the port is defended by two forts, and there are several other military works, which render Havana one of the strongest places in the world. Its commerce is extensive. Owing to the heat of the climate, and the filth of the town, strangers are exposed to the fatal effects of the yellow fever or black vomit, particularly in August and September. The environs are healthy. Sixty miles east of Havana is Matanzas, a flourishing place, with a fine harbor, a healthy situation, and an extensive and increasing commerce. Puerto Principe, lying in the interior, is remarkable only for its narrow, winding, and filthy streets. On the southern coast is Santiago, a flourishing place, with an extensive commerce. Its harbor is excellent, but the town is unhealthy. Trinidad is a well-built place, on the southern coast. Batavano, a seaport, also on the southern coast, is connected by a railroad with Havana. History.—Cuba was discovered by Columbus on his first voyage, in 1492. It was then very populous, the people being nearly in the same condition as those of Hispaniola. In 1511, the Spaniards began their settlements here; and in a few years, they exterminated nearly all the natives. Havana was founded early in the sixteenth century, and soon became a thriving commercial place. This city was for a long period the chief mart of the Spanish West India trade, and was repeatedly attacked by enemies. The buccaneers laid it under contribution in the sixteenth century. The most memorable capture of the place was by the British, in 1762, when the conquerors obtained a booty of $15,000,000. Havana was restored to Spain in 1763. Since this time, Cuba has remained in the quiet possession of that power. Its fertility renders it invaluable as a source of revenue to the mother country. It is stated that this island nearly supports the Spanish government. A portion of the inhabitants are said to be dissatisfied with the government; and relying upon this, in 1850, a band of one or two thousand men, led by a Cuban exile, named Lopez, sailed from New Orleans, for the purpose of invading and revolutionizing the island. A party of about four hundred landed at Cardenas in June, but were soon forced to depart. A similar attempt, in July, 1851, was wholly broken up; and Gen. Lopez and many of his men were executed.
4. Porto Rico.—This also belongs to Spain, and is the most easterly of the Great Antilles. It is 110 miles in length, by 36 in breadth. It has a fine climate and a fertile soil, and is, like Cuba, in a flourishing condition. The principal productions are coffee, sugar, and tobacco. St. John, or San Juan de Puerto Rico, the capital, on the northern coast of the island, with a spacious, secure, and strongly fortified harbor, has considerable commerce. Guayama, on the southern coast, is an important commercial town. History.—Porto Rico was discovered by Columbus in his second voyage, in 1493. Juan Ponce de Leon planted a colony here in 1509. The natives, who were supposed to have amounted to at least 600,000, shared the fate of the inhabitants of Hispaniola, and soon disappeared, under the oppressions and persecutions of their Spanish masters. Although inferior to none of the other parts of
2. The Bermudas? Their history? 3. Cuba? Chief towns? Its history? 4. Porto Rico? Chief towns? Capital? Its history?
20 [begin surface 562]the West Indies in fertility, this island was long neglected by Spain. In the latter part of the seventeenth century, it was taken by the English, but soon after abandoned. The Spaniards took possession of it, and it has since continued as one of their colonies. A revolutionary movement was made in 1820, but was suppressed in 1823.
5. Hayti.—Hayti, the second of the Great Antilles, in point of size and population, formerly belonged to France and Spain, the former holding the western, and the latter the eastern and larger portion of the island. It was known under the names of St. Domingo and Hispaniola. Since 1822, the whole has formed an independent state of blacks, the slaves having risen against their white masters, and expelled them from the island. The territory is divided into six departments. With a fine climate and a fertile soil, watered by several considerable rivers, which descend from the central chain of mountains, and having an extensive sea-coast and excellent harbors, nothing but a continuance of free institutions, and the diffusion of intelligence among the people, is wanting, to secure it a respectable rank among independent nations. Port au Prince, capital of the republic, is situated on a gulf on the western coast of the island, and has a safe and convenient harbor. The streets are well laid out, but the buildings are rather ordinary. The president's house is a handsome structure, and here are a lyceum, hospital, and several literary institutions. The commerce is extensive. Cape Haytien, formerly Cape Français, is the handsomest city on the island. It has a fine harbor, with a flourishing commerce. Its broad, straight streets are ornamented with squares and fountains, and the private houses and public buildings are in good taste. St. Domingo, on the southern coast, is a well-built city, containing, among other noted public edifices, a noble cathedral, an arsenal, remarkable for its extent, the palace which was once occupied by the Spanish governor, &c. It has much declined since the expulsion of the Spaniards. Les Cayes, or Aux Cayes, is one of the most important commercial places on the island. It was destroyed by a hurricane in 1831. Jacmel, Jeremie, and Savanna la Mar are places of some trade. History.—Saint Domingo was the first island occupied by the Spaniards. Columbus found it thronged with people, living in a happy state of ignorance, simplicity, and tranquillity. He founded a colony on his first visit; but, on his return, he found that the men had all perished by the hands of the Indians, whose vengeance they had provoked by their folly and crimes. Other settlements were afterwards made by the Spaniards. They then proceeded to subjugate the natives, hunting them down as if they were wild beasts. They forced them to pay tribute, and compelled thousands of them to labor on the land, or work in the mines. Harassed and oppressed beyond endurance, the despairing natives fled before their masters to the mountains. Pursued by dogs, and shot down by the soldiers, they rapidly wasted away, and, in the space of about half a century, nearly every vestige of the nation, consisting of a million of human beings, had disappeared from the island. Having thus exterminated the natives, and exhausted the gold mines, the Spaniards nearly deserted Hispaniola, being drawn by richer plunder to other quarters. In this state, it became exposed to the ravages of the Buccaneers, who came here in pursuit of wild cattle. Driven from the island, these lawless adventurers planted themselves upon the contiguous island of Tortuga. Here their numbers increased, being recruited by desperate men from the maritime countries of Europe. They now ceased to be cattle hunters, and proceeded to attack vessels which they found at sea, displaying the most fearless and desperate courage. They soon had sufficient numbers to undertake distant and formidable expeditions. In 1597, they captured Carthagena. At a later period, they attacked and took several of the principal cities around the Gulf of Mexico. At length their strength began to decline; and toward the end of the seventeenth century, the association had wholly ceased. After the expulsion of the Buccaneers from Hispaniola, the French made settlements there; and
5. Hayti? Chief towns? What of the Buccaneers? What of Toussaint L'Ouverture? What is the present condition of Hayti?
Without entering into a description of the geographical character of the territory of the five independent States of Guatemala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica, which, a few years ago constituted the federal republic of Central America, we shall limit ourselves to stating the extent of the territory which they occupy on the shores of the New World, stretching in a north-easterly direction, and extending to the south, where begins the other great section of the American continent, commonly called South America; we shall then add the most recent facts referring to their population:—
Superfices in miles. | Population. | Exports piast.& fr. | Imports | Revenue. | |
Guatemala | 43,388 | 850,000 | 1,880,000 | 2,000,000 | 600,000 |
Honduras | 39,660 | 350,000 | 745,000 | 1,000,000 | 150,000 |
San Salvador | 9,590 | 394,000 | 1,200,000 | 1,500,000 | 300,000 |
Nicaragua | 49,500 | 300,000 | 958,000 | 1,000,000 | 200,000 |
Costa Rica | 13,590 | 125,000 | 1,350,000 | 1,250,000 | 450,000 |
Total | 155,664 | 2,012,000 | 6,128,000 | 6,250,000 | 1,700,000 |
It is not possible to establish, agreeably to these figures, any comparison applicable to the whole of these five States; for the relations between their extension, population, commerce and revenues offer such extraordinary differences, depending upon reasons which it would take long to explain. As to the relation between the superfices of the territory and the number of inhabitants which constitute the density of the population, we obtain the following figures, representing the number of inhabitants in proportion to each square mile:—
Inhabitants. | Sq. Mile. | |
Guatemala | about 20 for | 1 |
Honduras | 9 | 1 |
San Salvador | 44 | 1 |
Nicaragua | 6 | 1 |
Costa Rica | About 10 | 1 |
If those figures appear rather small in comparison with those offered by the civilized nations of Europe and the United States, they are nevertheless larger than those furnished for the population of South America.
The following table, taken from the interesting work of Mr. Squier on Central America, confirms our assertion, and is worth publishing, as likely to elicit future researches:—
Superfices. | Inhabitants. | Proportion. | |
Central America | 156,000 | 2,019,000 | 13.0 |
Mexico | 792,000 | 7,853,000 | 10. |
New Granada | 380,000 | 1,360,000 | 3.58 |
Venezuela | 410,000 | 887,000 | 2.16 |
Ecuador | 320,000 | 550,000 | 1.27 |
Peru | 465,000 | 1,500,000 | 3.70 |
Bolivia | 380,000 | 1,200,000 | 3.16 |
Chile | 170,000 | 1,300,000 | 7.65 |
Brazil | 2,720,000 | 4,450,000 | 1.63 |
It will be perceived that in regard to the relative population the small Central American republics exhibit a better proportion than the larger States of New Granada, Venezuela, Peru and others. But when the numerical relations of the population of a country are examined, not only in a material point of view, but in a moral one, as to their influence upon the progress of civilization, the problem becomes excessively complicated if solved with reference to simple numerical calculations. The considerations resulting from the relation between the main character, habits, religious sentiments, and the degree of mental culture, &c., must be taken into account as indispensable elements. Unfortunately this view of statistics is still much neglected in the States to which we refer, but we will state here the facts in regard to the different elements composing the population of the five Central American republics:—
Whites | 100,000 | or | 5 | per cent | of the whole | population. |
Indians | 1,109,000 | or | 55 | " | " | " |
Negroes | 10,000 | or | 0.5 | " | " | " |
Mestees | 800,000 | or | 37.5 | " | " | " |
Total | 2,019,000 | or | 100 | " | " | " |
Mr. Brantz Meyer found for Mexico the following proportions:
Whites | 1,000,000 | or | 14.25 | per cent |
Indians | 4,000,000 | or | 57.00 | " |
Negroes | 6,000 | or | 0.8 | " |
Mestees | 2,000,000 | or | 38.67 | " |
Total | 7,015,000 | or | 100 | " |
The preponderance of the indigenous races over the actual population of many Spanish-American States, and, above all, the absorption by them of the European race, which is sensibly diminishing, are remarkable facts, which have provoked, and are still provoking, very serious reflections. Without absolutely accepting the physiological, psychological, and even religious doctrines which in these latter times have been expressed as to the distinctive character, the intellectual inequality, the destiny or social mission of the races composing the human family, we will say only a few words to our brethren of the Spanish-American race. If they do not wish to see the influence of the Latin race, which they represent in America, degraded and completely extinguished—if they hope to over[cutaway]logical tendencies resulting from
[begin surface 564]at length, in 1697, the court of Spain ceded to France the western half of the island, the eastern portion continuing to be occupied by the Spanish settlers. Such was the state of things at the commencement of the French revolution. The National Assembly abolished slavery in all the French colonies. Excited by a wild impulse, the slaves of Saint Domingo were thrown into a state of insurrection. A scene of fearful bloodshed and desolation followed. All the whites in the island either fled or were massacred. Toussaint L'Ouverture, who had been a slave, gained an ascendancy, and, for a brief period, maintained a government. He was beguiled by the French, however, and being taken to France, was left to die in prison. A French army of 20,000 men was now sent to conquer the island; but the enterprise proved abortive. Toussaint L'Ouverture. A black leader, named Dessalines, next made himself emperor of the island. It was subsequently divided into two governments—a monarchy, under King Christophe, and a republic, under President Petion. In 1822, the whole country was formed into a republic, under the name of Hayti. Soulouque, a mulatto, who was born a slave, was the last president. In 1849 he caused himself to be proclaimed emperor, under the title of Faustin I.; and the republic was changed into a monarchy.
Earthquake at Jamaica.6. Jamaica.—Jamaica is the largest and most important of the English West India colonies. It is about 150 miles in length, by 50 in breadth. The surface is much diversified. The Blue Mountains, which run through the island from east to west, rise to the hight of 7500 feet. On the north, the acclivity is gentle, and numerous fine vales are interspersed. Here every valley has its rivulet, and every hill its cascade. On the south, the surface is more broken. The soil is in general productive, and is well watered by about one hundred rapid streams, some of which are navigable for boats. The heat is tempered by the sea breezes and the inequalities of surface, and the vegetable productions are various and abundant. Spanish Town, the capital, is on a small river, a few miles from the southern coast. Kingston, the principal town on the island, is well built, with broad, straight streets, handsome houses, and an excellent harbor. Its commerce is extensive. Most of the population are blacks. Port Royal is also a place of extensive commerce, and is remarkable for the strength of its military works. It has suffered much from earthquakes. Population, 15,000. Montego Bay, on the northern coast, has a good harbor and considerable commerce, with about 4000 inhabitants. History.—Jamaica was discovered by Columbus in his second voyage; but the Spaniards not finding any gold here, paid little attention to the island. Oliver Cromwell dispatched an English fleet to invade Hispaniola; but this attempt being unsuccessful, an attack was next made upon Jamaica, and the island was captured by the English. Under their government, Jamaica soon rose to importance. Port Royal, the capital, became a rich mart of commerce. At the close of the seventeenth century, it was, with the exception of Mexico and Lima, the most splendid and opulent city in the western world. In the hight of its prosperity, a dreadful earthquake destroyed the place, burying thousands of its inhabitants in the ruins, and ingulfing millions of wealth in the sea. Since its first acquisition by the English, this island has remained in their power, although its tranquillity has been frequently disturbed by wars with the Maroons, or runaway negroes. In consequence of an act of the British parliament for the abolition of slavery throughout the colonies, taking effect in 1834, the negroes of Jamaica became free in 1838.
Cultivating the Sugar Cane.7. Smaller English Islands.—These are as follows: Trinidad is a fertile and beautiful island near the coast of Venezuela, with a delightful and healthy climate. It is seventy-nine miles long by fifty-six broad. It has a remarkable lake, half a mile across, covered with pitch. Around the edges, this is hard, but softens toward the middle, where it boils up in a liquid state. History.—This island was discovered by Columbus in 1498, when it was very populous. It was colonized by the Spaniards in 1588, taken by the French in 1676, soon after restored, and captured by the British in 1791, who have since retained it. Tobago, a small island to the north of Trinidad, has a fine climate and fertile soil. History.—This island was discovered by Columbus in 1498; was colonized by the Dutch, and next by the Courlanders. Afterward, it came to the French, who
6. Jamaica? Chief towns? Its history? When was slavery abolished in her colonies by Great Britain? 7. Other English islands?
[begin surface 566]ceded it to Great Britain in 1763. Grenada is another small island, whose capital, Georgetown, has a good harbor. History.—This island was discovered by Columbus in 1498, settled by the French in 1650, and taken by the British in 1762. Barbadoes, the most easterly of the W. I. islands, has a fertile soil. Bridgetown, the capital, is a flourishing place. History.—This island had no aboriginal population, though it appears the Caribs occasionally visited it. Its discovery is uncertain. Bridgetown. The English took possession of it in 1605, and colonized it in 1624. During the civil wars in England, about the year 1650, the population rapidly increased. Although afflicted at different times with earthquakes, pestilence, insurrection, and conflagration, the colony increased, and the island is now one of great importance. St. Vincent has a rugged and mountainous surface, and is well watered. It has been exposed to great ravages by the eruptions of a volcanic mountain, called the Souffrière or Sulphur Mountain. History.—The island was discovered by Columbus in 1498, at which time the natives were numerous, consisting of two races—one of Caribs, and the other resembling negroes, supposed to be the descendants of Africans wrecked on the coast. The island was colonized by the French, but came to the English in 1763. The natives revolted, and five thousand were removed to Honduras. San Lucia has a healthy and agreeable climate, and the soil yields cocoa, fustic, sugar, and coffee. It was first discovered by the English, in 1635, but they were driven away by the Caribs. A settlement was effected by the French in 1650. After having changed hands several times between the English and French, it finally was taken by the English in 1804, and has since remained subject to the British crown. Dominica contains several volcanic mountains, and its forests produce a variety of ornamental woods. Roseau, the capital, has a fine harbor. Six miles from here, on the top of a high mountain, is a fresh-water lake, with an area of several acres, in some parts unfathomable. This island was discovered by Columbus in 1493. It was for a long time claimed by both France and Spain, till the English gained possession of it in 1759. It was taken afterward by the French, and belonged to them till 1783, when it was restored to the British, and has since remained in their possession. Antigua contains a great number of excellent harbors. It was discovered by Columbus in 1493. The first settlement was made in 1632, by the English. The French laid it waste in 1666, but it was resettled by the English, in whose possession it has since remained. St. Christopher, or St. Kitts, produces sugar, cotton, coffee, &c. It is healthy, but subject to earthquakes. It was discovered by Columbus in 1493, and confirmed to Great Britain, by the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713. Montserrat is mountainous, with a light, volcanic soil, and healthy climate. It produces excellent coffee and sugar. It was discovered by Columbus in 1493, colonized by the English in 1632, and confirmed to them in 1713. Nevis is a conical hill, with a marshy, fertile soil and healthy climate. It produces sugar, molasses, and rum. It was discovered by the English, and settled by them in 1628. Barbuda is a flat, fertile island, producing corn, pepper, and tobacco. It belongs to the Codrington family, and has a proprietary government—the only one in the West Indies. It was first settled from St. Kitts, soon after that island was colonized. Anguilla, called Snake Island, from its crooked form, is flat, chalky, and not fertile, producing cotton, sugar, maize, and provisions. It has a salt lake, furnishing salt. It was colonized by the English in 1650, and has since been held by them. Tortola is one of the Virgin isles, which belong to the English, Danes, and Spaniards. These are all small. Tortola is mountainous, with a thin soil, producing cotton, fruits, sugar, molasses, &c. A few other of the Virgin isles belong to Great Britain. Government.—The government of all the English isles is conducted by houses of assembly, chosen by a part of the inhabitants, and governors and councils, appointed by the crown. The total population of the British West India islands is 700,000—one half being whites, and the rest blacks. Slavery was abolished in the British colonies by law, in 1834.
The Bamboo Tree, common in the West Indies.8. French Islands.—Martinique is one of the largest of the Caribee isles, being about fifty miles long and sixteen broad. It has often been visited by the yellow fever, by earthquakes, and by hurricanes. The surface is much broken, and there are some lofty summits. The capital, Fort Royal, is a small town. St. Pierre is the principal place, and carries on an extensive commerce. Martinique was discovered by the Spaniards in 1493, and was settled by the French in 1635. It was three times taken possession of by England, but was finally restored in 1815. Josephine, the wife of Napoleon, was a native of this island. Guadaloupe is divided into two parts by a narrow channel, called the Salt River. Basse Terre, on the western division, is the capital, but the principal town is Point à Pitre, on the eastern division, which has a thriving commerce, and contains 15,000 inhabitants. Population of the island, 110,000; of which 10,000 are whites, and 97,000 slaves. Mariegalante and Deseada are small islands dependent on Guadaloupe. Part of St. Martin belongs to France, and part to Holland. Guadaloupe, with its dependencies, has, in all respects, shared the fortunes of Martinique.
Give the history of the principal islands. Population of the British West Indies? How are they governed? 8. French Islands?
[begin surface 567]On the 2d of February General Carrera, President of the Republic, with his suite, paid an official visit to H. B. M.'s ship Esk, Captain Sir R McClure. He was received with all the honors due to his rank, and expressed himself highly pleased with the attention he received.
Before leaving the port of San Jose, the President gave various orders relative to certain improvements which are [illegible]pec[illegible]ily to be effected.
By observations made on board the Esk the position of the port of San Jose de Guatemala is ascertained to be latitude 18 56 N, longitude 90 42 W. This is important [cutaway]p masters, as the port is not even laid down on [cutaway]y charts, and on others it is incorrectly placed.
[cutaway]e fair of Esquipulas, which took place from the 6th to [cutaway] 13th of January, was well attended. The sale of [illegible][cutaway] woollen manufactures and cattle was brisk, but this [cutaway]ply of foreign manufactures far exceeded the demand. [cutaway]e Chamber or Representatives have approved of the [cutaway]positions made by England and France at the P[illegible][cutaway]ference relative to the suppression of privateering. [cutaway]hey have also approved of the treaty made by the [cutaway]resentatives of Central America at Washington.
[cutaway]UPTION OF THE VOLCANO OF FUEGO, IN GUATEMALA.An eye witness of the eruption of the Volcano of Fuego [cutaway]s describes the event:—
ESQUINTIA, Feb. 13, 1857.At half-past 7 on the morning of the 16th we arrived at [cutaway]atitian, and left there at 9:00 for Palin. As soon as we [cutaway]crossed the end of the hill on the right that former [cutaway]dividing ridge, the Volcano of Fuego presented itself [cutaway]our view, and over the most southerly point arose a [cutaway]pendicular column of smoke in the form of a plume of [cutaway]bers. One part of it was jet black, and another the [cutaway]s resplendent white. owing to the reflection of the [cutaway]'s rays. At intervals, loud reports, as of cannons [cutaway]s distinctly heard. The column of smoke increased [cutaway]ry moment, and remained perpendicular for over [cutaway]nty minutes until a gentle wind from the north grad [cutaway]y altered its form, and blew the smoke to the south. [cutaway]s the wind increased the smoke that issued from the [cutaway]er spread horizontally in a southerly direction. The [cutaway]l reports at this time (11 o'clock) were more frequent, [cutaway]between them we heard a continuous rumbling. At [cutaway]past 11 we arrived at Esquintia. The rumbling [cutaway]e increased, as did also the quantity of smoke vomited [cutaway]When it became dusk in the evening no fire was [cutaway] but early on the morning of the 17th it became [cutaway]ble.
t daylight on the 17th the quantity of smoke was per[cutaway]ed to be much more than on the previous day, some [cutaway]s rising a little above the crater, but never perpen[cutaway]arly, having always and inclination to the South.
[cutaway]8 A. M. the rumbling sounds became more continu[cutaway]nd the loud reports much stronger and more fre[cutaway]nightfall the fire was distinctly visible, and [cutaway]ht flashes, accompanied by much smoke, were [cutaway] A torrent of lava of a most brilliant color was [cutaway] running down the slope of the hill, and the crater [cutaway] appeared to throw out showers of sparks and flame [cutaway]ll directions. There sparks were probably large [cutaway]s of red hot stones, which bounded down the side [cutaway]e mountain with great velocity.
[cutaway]ddenly the current of the lava appeared to cease, [cutaway]the aperture from which it flowed (on the south [cutaway]) to close, so that by 8 o'clock the eruption had lost [cutaway]h of its force, but the reports and rumbling sounds [cutaway]nued with even more severity.
[cutaway]9 o'clock the lava broke out with a great exploration [cutaway]spot some distance from the first one, from which as [cutaway]ense stream of lava flowed in two channels toward [cutaway]north, presenting a most sublime and impressive [cutaway]e; this continued until after 10 o'clock.
[cutaway]n the afternoon of the 18th the atmosphere was filled [cutaway]so dense a smoke that the top of the volcano was visible; the explosions and rumbling continued, but [cutaway]so violently as on the previous day. Our counts [cutaway]y come down to this date.
9. Danish Isles.—Santa Cruz, or Sainte Croix, is the principal Danish Island. The small islands of St. Thomas and St. John are its dependencies. Christianstadt, the capital, on the island of Santa Cruz, has an active commerce. St. Thomas, on the island of the same name, is a small town, but its commerce is extensive. Santa Cruz was discovered by Columbus in his second voyage. The Dutch, English, French, Spanish, and Danes alternately possessed it, till 1815, when it was finally ceded to Denmark.
10.Dutch Islands.—Curaçoa, near the coast of Venezuela, produces sugar and tobacco, and has several good harbors. The capital, Wilhelmstadt, a prettily built town, with a commodious harbor and strong military works, contains nearly the whole population of the island. St. Eustatia, near St. Kitt's, is an enormous rock rising out of the sea, and presenting but only one landing place, which is difficult to access, and strongly fortified. Sugar and tobacco are the principal productions. The capital, of the same name, is a small town, with 6000 inhabitants. An active smuggling trade is carried on with neighboring islands, through St. Eustatia. It was taken possession of by the Dutch early in the seventeenth century. It has since then several times changed hands between them, the French, and the English. It was finally given up to Holland in 1814.
11. Swedish Island.—Saint Bartholomew is the only American colony belonging to Sweden. It is small, but highly cultivated, and carries on an extensive commerce. St. Bartholomew was settled by the French in 1648, and ceded by them to the Swedes, in 1784.
1. Preliminary Remarks.—In the preceding chapters, we have frequently alluded to the discovery of America by Columbus. This great event, as well as the causes which led to it, deserve more particular notice. The fifteenth century is marked as the era in which modern civilization rose from the chaos of the Dark Ages, which had brooded over Europe for a thousand years. Several remarkable circumstances contributed to hasten this development. The art of printing had been recently discovered, and the mariner's compass had only been lately applied to navigation. About this time, a spirit of maritime discovery was engendered and diffused. The ships of Spain and Portugal had visited the Azores and Madeira, and were pushing their investigations along the coast of Africa.
2. Columbus.—At this period, Columbus appeared. He was born at Genoa, in 1447. He was early imbued with the spirit of the times, and made several voyages upon the Mediterranean. He came to Lisbon, and was married there. He became a sea-captain, and frequently visited the north of Europe and the coast of Africa. No one had yet crossed the ocean, and no one had yet dared to penetrate its mysteries. The ignorant believed that it extended its waves without a shore; but Columbus, reasoning from his knowledge of the form of the globe, came to the conclusion that, by proceeding westward, he should meet with land.
3. His Discoveries.—After maturing his views, and having obtained the assistance of Isabella, queen of Spain, he sailed, on the 3d of August, 1492, from Palos, in Spain, with three small vessels. He first made for the south, and touched at the Canaries: thence he steered directly toward the west. After an anxious voyage, on the 12th of October, he had the gratification of discovering an island, called by the natives Guanahani, to which he gave the name of St. Salvador. He took possession of the island in the name of the queen of Spain, and erected a cross upon it, as a symbol that Christianity was to take the place of paganism. After visiting other islands, he returned to Spain. He made two subsequent voyages, and on the third discovered the continent of America. By degrees, discoveries were made along the whole coast of North and South America, and the country was taken possession of by various European powers.
9. Danish islands? 10. Dutch islands? 11. Swedish island?
LESSON LXXVI.1. What was the state of things in Europe in the fifteenth century? 2. What of Columbus? 3. His discoveries? The result of his voyages?
1. Characteristics.—South America is noted for its long and lofty range of mountains, its numerous volcanoes, its extensive plains, great rivers, and rich minerals.
2. Mountains.—There are three systems of mountains in South America. The Andes begin in the southern part of Patagonia, and extend to the Isthmus of Panama, where they are connected with the great chain of North America. Their general course is along the Pacific, about 180 miles from the coast. They consist of isolated peaks, covered with perpetual activity. Mount Sorato, in Bolivia, is the highest mountain on the Western Continent. The Brazilian Andes, in Brazil, are of no great elevation. The Parima Mountains extend along the southern border of Venezuela and Guiana. The following are some of the principal peaks: This table lists the height (in feet) of the following peaks in South America: Sorato (in Bolivia) Illimani (in Bolivia), Chimborazo (in Equador), Cotopaxi (volcano in Ecuador), Antisani (in Equador), Arequipa (in Peru), Itacolumni (in Brazil), and Dueada (Parima range).
3. Plains.—The pampas and llanos are vast plains, abounding in wild cattle, which are taken by a rope with a noose, called the lasso. These animals are abundant as to be often killed only for their hides.
5. Deserts.—The Desert of Atacama lies on the west between the Andes and the Pacific. It is a sandy, sterile region, 450 miles long by about fifty in width. In this region it never rains. The Desert of Sechura, in the north of Peru, is seventy-five miles long. The Desert of Pernambuco, in the northeastern part of Brazil consists of hillocks of moving sand, with occasional oases, or fertile spots. It is very extensive.
6. Rivers.—The Amazon is the largest, though not the longest, river in the world. Its branches spread over a valley nearly as extensive as the whole of Europe, and it carries as much water to the ocean as all the rivers of that quarter of the world! The Orinoco and La Plata are also large streams. No part of the world is better watered than South America. The following is a list of the principal rivers: This table lists the length (in miles) of the following rivers: Amazon, St. Francisco, La Plata, Orinoco, Madeira (branch of the Amazon), Parana (branch of the Plata).
7. Lakes.—Lake Titicaca, in Peru and Bolivia, the largest in South America, is 240 miles in circuit. Lake Maracaybo is a gulf of the Caribbean Sea. Lake Valencia, in Venezuela, is thirty-four miles long.
8. Shores, Harbors, Bays, &c.—The coasts of South America are less irregular than those of North America. Cape Gallinas, on the north, Cape St. Roque, on the east, Cape Horn, on the south, and Cape Blanco, on the west, mark the prominent outlines of the continent. The general form of South America is that of a triangle, the longest line being from north to south, embracing sixty degrees of latitude—about 4000 miles. There are no bays of great extent. The harbors are numerous.
9. Islands.—The Falkland Islands are about ninety in number. They are cold and desolate, but important as
Exercises on Map of South America.—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Where is Cape St. Roque? Cape Horn? Cape Blanco? Island of St. Catharina? Islands of Terra del Fuego? Island of Chiloe? Island of Juan Fernandez? Where are the Falkland Islands? South Georgia Islands? Describe the Orinoco; the Amazon; Madeira; Tapajos; St. Francisco; Uruguay; La Plata. What great chain of mountains extend the whole length of South America? In what part of South America are the Andes? Where is Mount Sorato? Illumani? Cotopaxi? Chimborazo? Lake Titicaca? Where are the Brazilian Andes?
GUIANA.—Boundaries of the Guiana? Where is Georgetown? Paramaribo? Cayenne? Extent of Guiana, as in the table? Population? Population to the square mile?
VENEZUELA.—Boundaries of Venezuela? Capital? Direction of Caraccas from Paramaribo? What river passes through Venezuela? What lake in Venezuela? Extent of Venezuela? Population? Population to the square mile?
NEW GRENADA.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Bogota from Caraccas? From Panama? Carthagena? Extent of New Grenada? Population? Population to the square mile?
EQUADOR.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Quito from Bogota? Latitude of Quito? What celebrated mountain peak in Equador? Population? Population to the square mile?
PERU.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Lima from Quito? Where is Cuzco? Arequipa? What lake in Peru? What desert is partly in Peru? Extent of Peru? Population? Population to the square mile?
BOLIVIA.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Chuquisaca from Lima? Where is Potosi? What lofty mountain peaks in Bolivia? Extent of Bolivia? Population? Population to the square mile?
CHILI.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Santiago from Chuquisaca? Where is Valparaiso? Extent of Chili? Population? Population to the square mile?
PATAGONIA.—Boundaries? What strait separates Terra del Fuego from Patagonia?
BUENOS AYRES.—Boundaries? What great river passes through Buenos Ayres? What great plains in Buenos Ayres? Capital? Direction of Buenos Ayres from Santiago? Extent of Buenos Ayres? Population? Population to the square mile?
URUGUAY.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Montevideo from Buenos Ayres? Extent of Uruguay? Population? Population to the square mile?
PARAGUAY.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Assumption from Buenos Ayres? Where is Conception? Extent of Paraguay? Population? Population to the square mile?
BRAZIL.—Boundaries? Capital? Direction of Rio Janeiro from Buenos Ayres? Direction of the following places from Rio Janeiro: Tejuco; Bahia; Pernambuco; Maranham; Para; Cuyaba? Where are the gold mines? Where is the diamond district? Where are the great plains called llanos? Extent of Brazil? Population? Population to the square mile?
LESSON LXXVII. 1. Characteristics of South America? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Plains? 5. Deserts? 6. Rivers? 7. Lakes? 8. Shores, harbors, &c.? 9. Islands? 10. Products?
[begin surface 572]furnishing harbors to whaling ships. They belong to Great Britain. The islands of Terra del Fuego, or Land of Fire, received their name from the volcanic fires seen in them. This is the most southern inhabited part of the globe. The interior has never been explored. The coasts are rocky, and beset by frequent tempests. They are the resort of numerous seals and clouds of penguins and other sea-fowl. They are inhabited by a few rude, poor, and ignorant, but peaceable natives, who live by fishing. Staten land, to the east, has an English settlement. There are other considerable islands skirting the western coast. Among the smaller groups is that of Juan Fernandez, to the west of Valparaiso.
10. Vegetable Products.—South America presents great richness and variety in the vegetable kingdom. Among the native productions are eighty species of palms, distinguished for their beauty and size, furnishing wines, oil, wax, flour, sugar, and salt; fourteen species of Peruvian bark, gum guaiacum, India-rubber, cacao, vanilla, maize or Indian corn, the potato, cassava, and two hundred and fifty varieties of wood useful for carpentry and dyeing. Coffee, sugar, cotton, indigo, and grains of various kinds are abundantly produced by cultivation.
Animals of South America.11. Animals.—The most remarkable animals of South America are the tapir, which resembles the hog, with a long, flexible snout, which it uses like the trunk of an elephant; the ant-eater, which feeds on ants; the llama, resembling the camel; the jaguar, which is like the African panther; and the condor, a species of vulture, and the largest bird of flight. Besides these, there are numerous monkeys, parrots, toucans, alligators, and a variety of serpents. The birds are noted for their glowing plumage.
12. Minerals.—The mines of South America have been celebrated ever since the discovery of the country; and they have yielded immense quantities of gold, silver, and precious gems. The annual value of these articles, still obtained, amounts to many millions of dollars.
13. Climate, &c.—The climate of South America is remarkable. In the low and level parts, near the equator, the temperature is always that of summer. The trees are clothed in perpetual verdure, the flowers are ever in blossom, and the fruits ripen at all seasons. In those parts which are well watered, vegetation becomes exuberant, animals increase, and reptiles and insects are multiplied without end. Never checked by the return of winter, animals and vegetables go on producing and reproducing, till the whole face of nature seems to be teeming with animal and vegetable life. The exhalations, which arise from the marshy soil and vegetable putrefactions, render the air extremely unhealthy. In the elevated plains, the temperature is cool and delightful. Throughout the year, the climate has the charms of spring. On the mountains it is still colder; and at the hight of 15,000 or 16,000 feet, winter establishes a perpetual dominion. Thus, in the same latitude, and within the compass of a few hundred miles, are three distinct zones, each having its own temperature, and its peculiar classes of trees, plants, and animals. Earthquakes are common at the north and west.
14. Face of the Country.—This may be divided into three parts—the western, middle, and eastern. The western part consists of an extensive plain, or plateau, elevated nearly 12,000 feet above the level of the sea, crowned with the vast chain of the Andes. The middle portion lies to the east of this, and is several times broader. It is a great expanse of country, composed of marshy or sandy plains, furrowed by three magnificent rivers and their numerous branches. The eastern portion, embracing the eastern part of Brazil, is moderately elevated.
15. Political Divisions.—South America presents the following divisions: Venezuela, New Grenada, Equador, Peru, Bolivia, Chili, Buenos Ayres, Uruguay, and Paraguay; these are republics. Patagonia is occupied by uncivilized tribes of Indians; Brazil is an empire; Guiana consists of three colonies, subject to European governments.
16. Inhabitants.—The greater part of the inhabitants of South America are descendants of the native Indians; some of these are partially civilized, but large tribes still wander in a savage state. Those who have submitted to the government, are a depressed, gentle, ignorant race, bearing a general aspect of sadness. A few have risen to distinction at the bar, and in other professions; but, in general, the oppressive influence of the whites keeps them in a state of poverty and depression, scarcely better than slavery. In Patagonia, the Indians are said to be of a very large size; in Terra del Fuego they are dwarfish, and seem to be among the most miserable of the human race. There are many negroes and mestizoes, especially in Guiana South American Indians. and Brazil. The ruling people are the descendants of Europeans—Spaniards and Portuguese. The Catholic religion everywhere prevails. The people are generally ignorant; the mass are poor, but there are a few who are very rich. The country is destitute of roads and bridges, and traveling
11. Animals? 12. Minerals? 13. Climate? 14. Face of the country? 15. Divisions? 16. Inhabitants? 17. History?
generally performed with horses or mules. In the free states, however, there is a general tendency to improvement. Here negro slavery is abolished; but peonage is common in respect to the Indians.
17. History.—Nearly the whole of South America was divided, for three centuries, between Spain and Portugal. The Spaniards, on the discovery of South America, found it in the possession of various tribes of Indians, generally of a more gentle and less warlike character than those who inhabited North America. They were evidently of the same race, but the influence of a softer climate had subdued their vigor and courage. With the cross in one hand and the sword in the other, the ruthless invaders took possession of the land. Peru, a populous empire of partly civilized people, was conquered by Pizarro, in 1535, by a series of treacherous though intrepid acts, scarcely paralleled in the history of mankind. The whole peninsula of South America fell into the power of European governments. Spain took possession of the greater part, and Portugal of a large tract on the east. For three centuries the country remained in the possession of these two powers, with the exception of Guiana. The Spanish portions have lately become independent. The Portuguese part of South America, Brazil, is now under the dominion of a legitimate sovereign. He is the first European monarch that has established the seat of his empire in the Western Continent.
1. Characteristics.—Guiana consists of three colonies, belonging to France, Holland, and Great Britain.
2. Mountains.—The Parima mountains traverse the southern portion, and extend into the interior.
3. Rivers.—The principal are the Essequibo, Demerara, Saramacca, Surinam, and Maroni. Some of these are large; but being shallow and broken by sand-bars, afford few facilities for navigation.
4. Vegetable Products.—In no part of the world is vegetation more luxuriant than here. The native products are rich and varied; thick impenetrable forests cover a great part of the country. Sugar, coffee, cotton, cocoa, maize, and indigo are produced in abundance. There is also a profusion of various delicious fruits. The orange and lemon trees, with many others, are at all times in bloom, and loaded with ripe and ripening fruit. It is on account of the great fertility of this unhealthy spot, that it is valued by the European governments.
5. Animals.—The alligator, peccary, agouti, sloth, coati, various kinds of monkeys, serpents of large size, and a great variety of birds abound in the forests.
6. Climate, Soil, &c.—The country along the coast only is occupied by the whites. It is a low, flat, and unhealthy region, with a hot, oppressive climate. It is, however, exceedingly fertile. The interior is broken by hills, which, at the south, rise into lofty mountains. The climate is tropical, the season being divided into the wet and dry. During the rainy season, the rivers, swollen by continual rains, overflow their banks; forests, trees, shrubs, and parasitical plants, seem to float upon the water; quadrupeds are forced to take shelter in the highest trees; large lizards, agoutis, and peccaries, quit their dens, now filled with water, and remain among the branches; aquatic birds spring upon the trees, to avoid the alligators and serpents that infest the temporary lakes; the fishes forsake their ordinary food, and live upon the fruits and berries of the shrubs among which they swim; the crab is found upon the trees, and the oyster multiplies in the forest : the Indian, who surveys from his canoe this confusion of earth and sea, suspends his hammock on an elevated branch, and sleeps, without fear, in the midst of so great apparent danger.
7. Inhabitants.—The interior of Guiana is still in the possession of various tribes of native Indians. There are also some maroons or runaway negroes, who have considerable villages. Of the whole population in the settled districts, 20,000 are whites; the rest are negroes or mixed races, most of whom are slaves, except in the British provinces.
8. Political Divisions.—Guiana embraces three provinces—Cayenne, Surinam, and Demerara.
9. Cayenne, or French Guiana.—This extends far inland, but the interior is occupied by the Indians; population, 25,000. It is divided into two districts, Cayenne and Sinnamari. Cayenne is the capital. It is built of wood, with wide clean streets, planted with orange-trees. The harbor is shallow.
10. Surinam, or Dutch Guiana—lies along the coast, and consists of unhealthy marshes, drained by navigable canals. Population about 60,000. The maroons have several independent establishments. They were long at war with the whites; but in 1809 a treaty of peace was entered into, and they have since lived on amicable terms. Paramaribo, the capital, is on the river, is handsomely laid out, has a good harbor, and extensive commerce. The streets are lined with orange, lemon, and tamarind trees.
11. Demerara, or British Guiana.—This is an extensive territory, the boundaries being undefined. It includes three colonies—Demerara, Berbice, and Essequibo. The chief towns are, Georgetown, the capital, and New Amsterdam.
12. History.—Guiana was discovered before the end of the fifteenth century, by Vincent Pinzon. The Dutch formed the first settlement, about 1590, on the Demerara River, and afterward at other places. The English settled in 1634 in the neighborhood of the Berbice and Surinam; but in 1667, the English settlements were given up to the Dutch. The French occupied Cayenne in 1633. During the last war in Europe, the English occupied the Dutch settlements; and by the treaty of Paris, in 1814, they restored only those between the Comantin and the Maroni to the Dutch, retaining possession of the remainder.
LESSON LXXVIII. 1. Characteristics of Guiana? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Vegetable products? 5. Animals? 6. Climate? 7. Inhabitants? 8. Political divisions? 9. Cayenne? 10. Surinam? 11. Demerara? 12. History?
211. Characteristics.—This country is remarkable for its extensive plains, and its rich vegetable productions.
2. Mountains.—The great eastern chain of the Andes enters the republic from New Grenada, and extends, nearly parallel to the coast, across the northern part of the Gulf of Paria. Some of the peaks are 18,000 feet high. The city of Caraccas has an elevation of 8750 feet. There are some mountainous ridges in the south, called the Parima Mountains.
3. Plain, or Llanos.—The most remarkable feature of this country is the vast plain which constitutes the greater part of its surface. It occupies the whole space between the mountainous chains already described. Including a part of New Grenada, it has an area of 350,000 square miles, but broken and intersected by numerous rivers. On the borders of the streams and ponds there are thickets of palm, but the rest of this great level consists of open plains, called by the Spaniards llanos, covered only with grass. In the dry season, the llanos present the aspect of a desert; the grass is reduced to powder, the ground cracks with the heat and drought, and the alligators and serpents, having buried themselves in the mud, remain in a torpid state, until they are revived by the wet season.
4. Rivers.—The Orinoco is one of the largest rivers in the world, and crosses Venezuela nearly through its center. Rising in the mountains of Parima, it flows, after a very circuitous course of upward of 1500 miles, by about fifty mouths, into the Atlantic Ocean. The Guaviare, Apure, and Meta, which rise in the Andes of New Grenada, and the Ventuari and Caroni, which have their sources in the Parima Mountains, are the principal tributaries. During the rainy season it inundates the vast plains through which it flows, presenting in some places an expanse of water of 80 or 90 miles in extent. Immediately on its banks are impenetrable forests, from which are heard the cries of the jaguar, the puma, innumerable troops of monkeys, peccaries, and other animals. While the gigantic boa swings from the branches of the trees, ready to seize its prey, huge alligators, long files of river porpoises, and great numbers of manatees, crowd its waters.
5. Lakes.—The principal lakes are that of Maracaybo, which is a deep and navigable gulf, and the lake of Valencia. The latter is 34 miles in length, by six or eight in breadth, covered with beautiful islands, and well stocked with fish. Ipava is a small lake in the south.
6. Shores, Harbors, &c.—The northern boundary of Venezuela is washed by the Caribbean Sea. It presents a very irregular outline, and contains several bays and harbors. The southern portion of the West India Islands lie within a short distance of the coast.
7. Climate, Soil, and Products.—The seasons here are divided into the wet and the dry, and as there is little variety of surface, a high temperature prevails throughout the country during the whole year. The soil is fertile, producing coffee, cotton, sugar, cocoa, indigo, sarsaparilla, dye-woods, cassava, plantains, and various medicinal plants and edible roots. Rich tropical fruits are abundant, and the vegetation is characterized by great vigor and freshness; and such is the nutritious quality of the vegetable food here used, compared with that of the cereal grains of the temperate climates, that a much smaller extent of ground is able to maintain a given number of persons.
8. Animals.—The wild animals of this region are the jaguar, puma, deer, troops of peccaries, the Guinea-pig, paca, sloth, coati, monkeys, alligators, serpents, parrots, &c. Along the coast are sea-cows, a huge species of seal; and the electrical eel is found in the stagnant pools of the llanos. Scorpions, millepedes, musquitoes, and thousands of other insects abound. The pearl oyster is found on the coast.
9. Divisions.—Venezuela is divided into thirteen provinces.
Table of the populations of Venezuelan provinces: Caracas, Maracaibo, Barinas, Apure, Cumana, Barcelona, Coro, Merida, Barquisimeto, Carabobo, Trujillo, Margarita, and Guayana.10. Industry.—The chief occupation of the people is agriculture. There are no mines. Many of the Indians live by hunting, game being abundant.
11. Inhabitants.—The whole country is thinly inhabited, and the greater portion is occupied by Indians, the whites being only about 220,000, and the blacks 60,000. Many of what are called the wild Indians, or Indios bravos, dwell in villages, and raise plantains, cassava, and cotton. The civilized Indians are those among whom the Spaniards have established missions, and introduced Christianity. They are indolent, peaceful, and ignorant. The population of Venezuela may in general be divided into three classes, corresponding to the three great natural divisions of the country. Along the shore, in the valleys, and on the mountains, agriculture and commerce are pursued, and here the whites are most numerous. In the great plains, the inhabitants, or llaneros, as they are called, lead a pastoral life, raising large flocks and herds, and keeping great numbers of horses, all of which abound in those natural pastures. These are chiefly Indians and mixed races. In the woody and mountainous regions of the south, beyond the Orinoco, are tribes of hunters, many of whom are at perpetual war with each other, and have all the characteristics of savages. The country, in general, is destitute of roads and bridges. Traveling and transportation in the interior is performed by mules and lamas. The Catholic religion prevails. Ignorance and indolence are universal, except in the trading towns. The state of society is improving very slowly.
12. Towns.—The capital is Caraccas, which, before it was ravaged by an earthquake in 1812, contained 45,000 inhabitants. It is now much reduced, but is the center of an extensive commerce. Its situation is pleasant, and being elevated, it enjoys a perpetual spring. La Guayra, its port, has a poor harbor, and is extremely unhealthy. Maracaybo,
LESSON LXXIX. 1. Characteristics of Venezuela? 2. Mountains? 3. Plain or llanos? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Shores
on the gulf of the same name; Puerto Cabello, with a fine harbor and strong military works; Valencia, a pleasant town, with a delightful climate; Barcelona, a great mart for the smuggling trade with the English islands, and Cumana, are commercial places on the northern coast. In the interior, Varinas and Angostura are the principal places. Merida and Coro are the other most important towns.
13. History.—The history of Venezuela is full of interest. Columbus discovered South America at the mouth of the Orinoco in 1498. Amerigo Vespucci, an Italian, soon after, visited this country, and wrote a very interesting account of his voyage. From this circumstance, the whole continent was named after him. Soon after, Ojeda, a Spanish navigator, sailed up Lake Maracaybo, where he found the inhabitants living in villages along the shore, the houses built on poles rising out of the water. Hence he named the country Venezuela, or Little Venice. He made war upon the natives, and took several of them prisoners, whom he carried to the West Indies and sold as slaves. Other navigators visited the coast, and traded with the Indians; the territory at this time being called Terra Firma, or Main Land. Soon after, the Spaniards visited the country for war and plunder, and thousands of the natives were dragged off to perish in the mines of Hispaniola. Juan Cornejo sailed up the Orinoco in 1531. His vessel was wrecked, part of the crew drowned, and the rest massacred. A short time after, a large company of Germans, called Welsers, settled here. Stimulated by the desire of gold, they hunted the Indians like wild beasts, torturing and exterminating those who did not bring a certain quantity of precious metals on appointed days. At length these people heard of an empire far in the interior, said to have a capital filled with gold and silver. One street in the city was said to contain 3000 silversmiths. The king was described as powdered every morning with gold-dust. Hence the place was called El Dorado, or The Gilded One. Several expeditions were fitted out, and hundreds of lives were lost to discover this famous city; but it was at last proved that no such place existed. Nunez de Balboa founded a settlement at Darien, the first European town on the American continent. He discovered the Pacific on the 25th of September, 1813. Panama was founded in 1517 by his successor, Pedrarias. The dominion of the Spaniards was extended over the country, from Guiana to the Pacific, by degrees. It was finally divided into the three provinces of Caraccas, New Grenada, and Quito, these being governed by captains-general, or viceroys, from Spain. General Miranda attempted to ex- cite a revolt in the province of Caraccas in 1806, but failed of success. An insurrection, however, burst out in 1810, and spread over the whole country. Bolivar, a native of Caraccas, put himself at the head of the revolutionists; and, after a severe struggle, the independence of the country was secured. In 1819, the provinces of Venezuela and New Granada were formed into a republic called Colombia, of which Bolivar was elected president. Quito soon after joined the confederacy. In 1831 this government was broken up, and three new republics formed out of it, namely, Venezuela, New Granada, and Ecuador. Bolivar, the most remarkable man who has arisen in South America, and who, in consequence of his efforts for the independence of Colombia and Bolivia, gained the title of the Liberator, died in 1831.
1. Characteristics.—This country occupies the northwestern part of South America, and extends to the boundary of Costa Rica, including the Isthmus of Darien.
2. Mountains.—The country is traversed by several chains of the Andes, the bases of which, as in the mountain chains of Mexico, are elevated plains or table-lands, which are from 6000 to 9500 feet above the level of the sea. Near the southern frontier, in the vicinity of Popayan, the great chain of the Andes diverges into three principal chains. The valleys between these form the great plateau of New Granada, upon which the population is chiefly concentered. Near the northern coast is the Sierra of Santa Martha, with peaks 19,000 feet high.
3. Rivers.—The Magdalena rises at the point where the several chains above described separate, and flows north into the Caribbean Sea, which it enters by several mouths, after a course of 900 miles. It receives numerous tributaries, of which the Cauca is the principal. These rivers are navigable for steam-vessels. The head branches of the Amazon water the southeastern part of the country.
4. Bays.—The Gulf of Darien and the Bay of Panama, in the north, are separated by the narrow strip of land called the Isthmus of Darien.
5. Isthmus.—The Isthmus of Darien forms one of the departments of New Grenada. Its chief towns are Panama, Chagres, Porto Bello, and Veragua. Its length, from the continent to Costa Rica is about 350 miles; its average width, 80 miles; its narrowest part, between Chagres and Panama, 28 miles from sea to sea. The mountain chain of the Andes and Cordilleras is here interrupted by several breaks of low and level land, through one of which the railroad is to extend; yet the summits of the mountains near Panama rise to the hight of 1000 feet. Most of the east coast is uncultivated. Near Panama, there is a large tract under tillage. The farmers are indolent, chiefly raising stock. Game is abundant, and most of the people in the country subsist by the chase. Wild hogs, deer, and other animals, are abundant. Monkeys, sharks, and lizards are used as food. The horses are few and small. Mules are mostly used for conveyance. These carry passengers and merchandise across from Gorgona to Panama. Boats are used on the river from Chagres to Gorgona.
6. Natural Curiosities.—The Cataract of Tequendama, near Bogota, presents an assemblage of all that is picturesque. The river of Bogota, which, just above the
and harbors? 7. Climate, soil, &c.? 8. Animals? 9. Divisions? 10. Industry? 11. Inhabitants? 12. Towns? 13. History?
LESSON LXXX. 1. Characteristics of New Granada? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Bays? 5. Isthmus? 6. Natural
[begin surface 592]fall, is 144 yards in breadth, is contracted, at a crevice in the rock, to a width of twelve yards, and is poured, by two descents, down a depth of 574 feet. The Natural Bridge of Icononzo is a natural arch of stone, fifty feet long and forty wide, stretching over a deep chasm, through which rolls a torrent forming two beautiful cascades. The hight of the bridge above the stream is 318 feet. Sixty-four feet below this bridge is a second, composed of three enormous masses of rock, which have fallen so as to support each other. The cavern below is haunted by thousands of nocturnal birds. At the village of Turbaco, near Carthagena, there is a singular group of air volcanoes, consisting of conical hillocks from twenty to twenty-five feet high, on the summit of which are cavities filled with water. From these issue bubbles of gas, which often project the water to a considerable hight, while a succession of explosions is heard under ground.
7. Climate, Soil, &c.—The low country on the coast is hot and unhealthy, but the table-lands are salubrious. So rapid is the transition, that the eye can see regions of perpetual summer, spring, and winter. The soil is extremely fertile, and produces in great richness and abundance the varied vegetation of its different climates. Among these are braziletto, cedar, mahogany, ipecac, balsam of Tolu, &c.
8. Animals.—Deer of various kinds, wild hogs, jaguars, tapirs, monkeys, parrots, flamingoes, pelicans, and waterfowl are abundant. Immense alligators abound in the rivers. Fish are abundant, and the electrical eel is found in the stagnant pools. Myriads of insects fill the air, and the pearl-oyster is found on some parts of the coast.
9. Minerals.—Rich mines of silver are found in the mountains, but have been little worked. The gold washings, in which platina also occurs, furnish gold of the value of nearly $3,000,000 a year. Copper, iron, tin, lead, and coal are also found. Precious stones of different kinds abound. The emerald mines of Muzo, near Bogota, and those of Somondoco, in the department of Boyaca, have furnished great quantities of emeralds.
10. Face of the Country.—The surface of New Grenada presents a broken and varied aspect. The mountain ranges, resting upon elevated table-lands, overspread the greater part of the country. On the summits of the central mountain ranges are lofty paramos, or table-lands, nearly without vegetation. The other table-lands, generally, are unproductive. The northern and western slopes are fertile, but the lower parts are unhealthy. In the southeast are wide llanos, pasturing vast herds of cattle.
11. Divisions.—New Grenada comprises the territories of the former Spanish province, styled the Viceroyalty of New Grenada, and is divided into 29 provinces, which take their names from the capital cities thereof, viz.:
Table listing the provinces of New Grenada: Antioquia, Azuero, Barbacoas, Bogota, Buenaventura, Cartagena, Cazanare, Cuaca, Choco, Fabreya, Mariquita, Mompox, Neiva, Ocana, Panama, Pamplona, Pasto, Popayan, Rio Hacha, Santa Marta, Santander, Socorro, Soto, Tundama, Tunja, Tuquerres, Upar, Velez, and Veragua.12. Industry.—The farmers are chiefly devoted to the raising of stock. Wheat, maize, tobacco, plantains, cotton, cocoa, and sugar are produced. In general, agriculture is pursued in a rude and languid manner. Coarse woolen and cotton stuffs, for home consumption, are the chief manufactures. The commerce is considerable.
13. Railroad.—A railroad is now in course of construction from Chagres to Panama, a distance of forty-six miles. A grant for this purpose has been secured from the government of New Grenada.
14. Inhabitants.—The population, like that of Mexico, is composed of Creoles, Indians, negroes, and the different mixed races, and bears a general resemblance to that of the Mexican States. The whites are, however, less numerous, and there is a greater proportion of negroes. The great mass are buried in ignorance, indolence, and superstition. Many Indians are subject to peonage. The Roman Catholic religion is established by law. In the cities, the people have a tinge of the old Spanish manners.
15. Chief Towns.—Bogota, the capital of the republic, is situated on the table-land of New Grenada, and is in general well built. The houses are low, consisting of only one or two stories, on account of the frequency of earthquakes. The beautiful plain in which the city stands having an elevation of 8700 feet, it enjoys a mild and healthful climate. Carthagena possesses the finest harbor in the country, and has a thriving commerce. Santa Martha, on the coast to the northeast of Carthagena, has a good harbor, strongly defended, and an active commerce. Porto Bello, on the Isthmus of Panama, celebrated for the great fair formerly held in it, is now much declined, on account of the insalubrity of its climate. Rio Hacha is a small town, but important for its pearl fishery and trade. Popayan, situated at the foot of the great volcanoes of Purace and Sotara, is a handsome and well-built town. Panama, on the south side of the isthmus, and at the head of the bay of the same name, has a thriving and extensive commerce, it having recently acquired importance, being the point at which the travel across the isthmus concentrates. Here will be the terminus of the railroad now building from Chagres. Here also is the stopping-place of the steamers in connection with San Francisco. Chagres is a small, ill-built village, at the mouth of the Chagres River. It is noted as the stopping-place of the vessels which take freight and passengers for Panama, going across the isthmus. East of this is the beginning of the railroad to Panama. Gorgona is a village on the Chagres River, twenty miles northwest of Panama. Cruces, also on the Chagres, is a small village on the isthmus route, about five miles north of Gorgona. (See Map, page 150.)
16. Traveling.—In the interior, there are no roads. In the mountainous parts, travelers are carried in baskets, on the backs of cargueros, or porters. In traversing the Quindiu Mountains, a month's provisions are necessary, as the melting of snow causes frequent interruptions. At night, the porters erect shelters of sticks, covered with broad banana leaves.
17. History.—We have already mentioned the discovery and occupation of this country by Balboa, and have noted its subsequent history in connection with Venezuela. The province of New Grenada declared itself independent of Spain in 1811; and by the memorable victory of Carabobo, in 1821, completed the downfall of the Spanish authority. In 1819, it formed a union with Venezuela, under the title of the Republic of Colombia, and Quito subsequently acceded to the confederacy, as before stated. In 1831, Colombia was divided into the three republics of New Granada, Venezuela, and Ecuador.
curiosities? 7. Climate, soil, &c.? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Face of the country? 11. Divisions? 12. Industry? 13. Railroad?
14. Inhabitants? 15. Chief towns? Describe Panama, Chagres, Gorgona, and Cruces. 16. Traveling? 17 History?
1. Characteristics.—The Republic of Ecuador, or Equador, is so called because the Equator crosses its territory.
2. Mountains, &c.—The western part of the state is traversed from south to north by a chain of the Andes, forming a double ridge of colossal summits, the valley between which constitutes an elevated table-land from twenty-five to fifty miles in width, and from 9000 to 9500 feet in hight. The principal summits projecting above this great plateau, are Chimborazo and the lofty volcanoes of Antisani, Cotopaxi, and Pichincha. Above the hight of 16,000 feet, these mountains are covered with perpetual snow. Chimborazo has been ascended to the hight of 19,800 feet, probably the highest point on the surface of the globe ever trodden by the foot of man. The air is here so much rarefied that blood issued from the eyes, lips, and gums of the visitors.
3. Rivers.—The whole of the eastern part of the state is traversed by the great river Maranon, or Amazon, which forms part of the southern boundary of the republic. It receives the Napo, the Putumayo, and the Tigre from the north, and the Huallaga, the Ucayale, and the Javari, from the south, within the limits of the republic. The other most important river is the Guayaquil, which is navigable for the largest vessels the distance of forty miles from the sea, and empties itself into the fine bay of the same name.
4. Climate, Soil, &c.—Although this country lies directly under the equator, the great elevation of the central valley, and of the western table-land, renders the climate of these sections mild and temperate. In the low country along the coast, the heat is excessive, and the climate is dangerous to foreigners. The animals, vegetable products, &c, resemble those of New Grenada.
5. Minerals.—Gold is abundant in the sands of almost all the rivers. This is collected in small quantities by the Indians. Lead and quicksilver are also plentiful, but the mines are not wrought.
6. Divisions.—The territory of the republic is divided into the following nine provinces:
Table of the populations of Ecuadorian provinces: Pichincha, Chimborazo, Atacames, Quixos, Manabi, Guayaquil, Cuenca, Loxa, San Jaen de Bracamoros.7. Chief Towns.—Quito, the capital, is built on an elevated plain, on the eastern slope of the western chain of the Andes, at an elevation of 9600 feet. At this hight the climate is such that vegetation never ceases. Around the city are seen eleven colossal summits, covered with perpetual snow, and reaching the hight of from 16,000 to 21,000 feet. Several of these are volcanoes; and the city is so often visited by earthquakes, that the buildings are, like those of Bogota, low, but solid. It has many convents and churches, and some handsome edifices. The streets are irregular and crooked, and so uneven as not to be adapted to carriages. Guayaquil is distinguished for the excellence of its harbor and the extent of its commerce. Riobamba, Ibarra, and Latacunga, are among the other important towns.
8. Industry.—Agriculture is the chief occupation. Cotton, coffee, sugar, yams, tobacco, maize, wheat, and fruits, both of tropical and temperate regions, are produced. The plains yield wax, gums, resins, and sarsaparilla. Fish are plentiful, and extensively taken on the Pacific coast.
9. Inhabitants.—This state formerly constituted the Spanish Presidency of Quito, which was dependent upon the viceroyalty of New Grenada. But a small portion of the inhabitants are whites—the Indians and mixed breeds composing the bulk of the population. The civilized part is confined to the central valley and the western coast, the vast tracts to the east of the mountains being occupied by independent and hostile tribes of savages. The aborigines belonged to the Peruvian family, and numerous remains of their architectural industry and skill are visible. The Roman Catholic religion prevails, and ignorance and indolence pervade the great mass of the people.
10. History.—The Territory of Quito, or Ecuador, formed part of the great Empire of Peru, conquered by Pizarro. The city of Quito was one of its capitals, and Cuzco the other. Between these were two great public roads, paved in many parts, and extending over mountains and valleys for 1500 miles. Portions of these are still remaining. They were works of far greater magnitude than any which have been accomplished by the Spanish successors of the ancient Peruvians. While Pizarro was carrying on the conquest of Peru, one of his officers, named Benalcazar, whom he had left behind as governor of St. Michael, started with a number of followers for the conquest of Quito, where he expected as much gold as the Spaniards had found at Cuzco. After a fierce and protracted contest, the Indians fighting with the most desperate valor, he entered the city. His rage was unbounded on finding that the inhabitants had hidden their gold and silver, the greater part of which was never found. The country submitted to the Spanish authority, and Quito was governed by a captain-general, dependent upon New Grenada. In 1809, a revolution occurred, which ended in the establishment of a republic in 1822. Quito was soon after united with Colombia. In 1831 it became a separate state, under the title of the Republic of Ecuador.
LESSON LXXXI. 1.Characteristics of Ecuador? 2 Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Climate, soil, &c.? 5. Minerals?
6. Divisions? 7. Chief Towns? 8. Industry? 9. Inhabitants? 10. History?
1. Characteristics.—This state embraces the capital and the central part of the Great Indian Empire of Peru, conquered by the Spaniards under Pizarro.
2. Mountains.—Several chains of the Andes traverse Peru from south to north. The principal chain lies nearly parallel to the coast, and contains the loftiest summits, among which is the Volcano of Arequipa, 17,750 feet in hight.
3. Rivers.—The only considerable rivers of Peru are the Tunguragua, the Paro, or Ucayale, and some other tributaries of the Amazon, which descend the eastern declivities of the Andes.
4. Lake.—Lake Titicaca, the largest lake in South America, is 240 miles in circuit, and 400 feet deep. Its waters are fresh, and it is remarkable for the great elevation of its bed, which is about 13,500 feet above the sea.
5. Coast.—The nature of the coast on the Pacific here is by no means favorable to navigation, and affords no harbor except Callao, which admits the larger merchant vessels. There is on every part of the shore a tremendous surf, very dangerous to vessels.
6. Face of the Country.—Peru consists of three distinct regions, differing in regard to surface, soil, and climate. First—Between the mountains and the Pacific, a narrow strip of sandy plain extends along the whole coast, with extensive intervals, in which no traces of vegetation appear. Here no rain falls, the dews are heavy, and the heat is intense. The products are tropical plants, sugarcane, cocoa, plantains, coffee, &c. Second—The mountainous region, which, commencing at the termination of the sandy district with hills of moderate elevation, rises gradually to the loftiest summits. Here, as in Mexico and New Grenada, the traveler ascends through successive layers of climate, from regions of perpetual summer to those of eternal snows. The valleys and sides of the mountains are covered with impenetrable forests of gigantic trees, overrun with luxuriant creeping or parasitical plants. This region spreads out into an extensive table-land, which, stretching far to the east and south, has an elevation of from 4000 to 9000 feet. Much of the soil in this region is fertile: the climate of the table-land is mild and temperate. Third—To the east of the mountains, in the northeastern part, begins the great plain of the Amazon, in which the heat is excessive and the climate moist and unhealthy. Like the llanos of Venezuela, this great level is intersected by forests along the banks of the rivers, which break up its surface into separate grassy plains, here called pampas.
7. Animals.—Those which we have mentioned in New Granada are found here; to these may be added the llama, alpaca, guanaco, and vicuna, all of the same genus. The first is used as a beast of burden; mules, however, are mostly employed in traveling. The alpaca is valued for its silky hair, which is woven into fine fabrics.
8. Minerals.—The mountainous region abounds with mineral wealth; gold, silver, and quicksilver have been most extensively worked, though other metals are abundant. The richest silver mines are those of Pasco, Huantajaya, Chota, and Puno. Quicksilver abounds at Huancavelica. Several of these mines are found at the hight of from 12,000 to 14,000 feet. Gold is obtained in various places from washings.
9. Divisions.—Peru is divided into seven departments, which are subdivided into provinces.
Table of populations of Peruvian capitals. The departments are Arequipa, Puno, Cuzco, Ayacucho, Lima, Junin, and Libertad. The capitals are Arequipa, Puno, Cuzco, Huamanga, Lima, Huanuco, and Truxillo.10. Industry.—Mines of copper, tin, coal, quicksilver, and nitrate of soda, are wrought. Woolen cloths, leather cloaks, blankets, iron wares, and jewelry, are manufactured to some extent. Agriculture is the chief employment. Commerce, by way of the sea, is considerable. Cotton, gums, resins, &c., are carried across the country and down the Amazon. A great trade in guano commenced in 1841, and is still continued. This consists of the excrement of seabirds, which has accumulated for ages on the rocky coasts along the Pacific.
11. Inhabitants.—The whites compose but a small part of the population; there are many mestizoes, and some negroes, but the bulk of the inhabitants are Peruvian Indians, who retain their native language, and observe the external forms of the Roman Catholic religion. They are timid, indolent, and poor. In the north and east are extensive regions occupied by wild Indians. The mode of traveling in some parts of the country is peculiar; the deep ravines in the mountains are passed by travelers in baskets suspended from ropes which are stretched across these terrific chasms. In some places these fissures are crossed by pendulous bridges of ropes, covered with reeds. The Catholic religion prevails ; ignorance and indolence characterize the people, except a few in the commercial places.
12. Towns.—The capital and largest town of Peru is Lima, which stands upon the small river Rimac, about six miles from its mouth. The streets are regular, but the buildings are low, on account of the frequency and violence of earthquakes. The city is surrounded with a wall, built of bricks baked in the sun. The churches are distinguished
LESSON LXXXII. 1. Characteristics of Peru? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Lakes? 5. Coast? 6. Face of the country?
7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Divisions? 10. Industry? 11. Inhabitants? 12. Towns? 13. History?
In Peru, South America, rain is unknown. The coast of Peru is within the region of perpetual southeast trade winds, and though the Peruvian shores are on the verge of the great South Sea basin, yet it never rains there. The reason is plain. The southeast trade winds in the Atlantic Ocean first strike the water on the coast of Africa. Travelling to the northwest they blow obliquely across the ocean until they reach the coast of Brazil. By this time they are heavily laden with vapor, which they continue to bear along across the continent, depositing it as they go, and supplying with it the sources of the Rio de la Plata and the southern tributaries of the Amazon. Finally they reach the snow-capped Andes, and here is wrung from them the last particle of moisture that very low temperature can extract. Reaching the summit of that range, they now tumble down as cool and dry winds on the Pacific slopes beyond. Meeting with no evaporating surface, and with no temperature colder than that to which they were subjected on the mountain tops, they reach the ocean before they become charged with fresh vapor, and before, therefore, they have any which the Peruvian climate can extract. Thus we see how the top of the Andes becomes the reservoir from which are supplied the rivers of Chili and Peru.—Brunswick Telegraph.
[begin surface 596]ONE of the most dazzling and romantic scenes in the world's history, is, doubtless, that in which the two richest and most populous empires of the American continents passed under the imperial sway of Spain, adding intense lustre to the glories of the Spanish crown, at a moment when Charles V. was about voluntarily to resign it forever. The two continents of America exhibit evidences of the existence, at some remote period of time, of a powerful, populous, and civilized people, to whose name, numbers, condition and circumstance, neither history nor tradition have preserved the slightest clue. The solitary monuments of their industry occasionally astonish the traveller, as well amid the prairies of the northern as among the luxuriant forests of the southern continent; but the profoundest research and most sagacious conjectures fail to throw light on the authors of the stupendous monuments that excite our surprise. The discoverers of the new world found here a number of nations, of greater or less degree of civilization, and a multitude of tribes altogether in a primitive state.
The two most powerful and civilized of them were fated to become the prey of fanaticism and avarice, enforced by the sword of Spanish adventurers. While the colonists of other European nations sought, in the wilds of the American continent, only a secure home, in which their industry might meet its reward and their religious scruples be unmolested, the Spanish colonists sought empire by conquest, and fate seems to have guided them where those conquests were alone feasible. The subjugation of the vast empire of the Aztecs by a handful of adventurers, impelled, perhaps, mostly by a desire to extend the influence of the cross, seemed to realize, in the greatness of the results and the apparent inadequacy of the means employed, the fabled exploits of the errant-knights of old. The thirst for adventure, which the success of Cortez rather enhanced than quenched, lived in the bosoms of Spanish soldiers, and finally resulted in the invasion and subjugation of the empire of the Incas, the only rival on the American continent to Mexico, in refined social polity and approximate civilization. Nothing could offer greater difficulties for authentic history, than the inroad of a few unlettered soldiers into a barbarian nation; the fraud and violence which the conquered suffered from the invaders, and the strife of the conquerors with each other for spoil and power—spread over a series of years—make it exceedingly difficult for the judicious historian to select from the mass of contradictory statements and highly-colored sketches, emanating from fanaticism, folly, prejudice and pique, such facts as constitute an authentic narrative of events, themselves so marvellous as to tax our credulity to the utmost. Yet this has been performed by Mr. Prescott, under circumstances that enhance our admiration—as if a country, whose discovery and conquest had presented difficulties to be overcome greater than those which ever attended any similar enterprise—should require, even in the narration of the events, that the historian should encounter obstacles, from which the stoutest would have shrunk, unless impelled by the same indomitable fire that carried his heroes to a success, made still
* History of the Conquest of Peru; with a Preliminary View of the Civilization of the Incas. By William H. Prescott, Member of the French Institute, &c. 2 vols. Harper Brothers, New York.
[begin surface 598]more glorious by the difficulties they encountered. The nature of these difficulties Mr. Prescott relates in his own unassuming yet touching manner:
"Before closing these remarks I may be permitted to add a few of a personal nature. In several foreign notices of my writings, the author has been said to be blind; and more than once I have had the credit of having lost my sight in the composition of my first history. When I have met with such erroneous accounts, I have hastened to correct them. But the present occasion affords me the best means of doing so; and I am the more desirous of this, as I fear some of my own remarks, in the prefaces to my former histories, have led to the mistake.
"While at the University, I received an injury in one of my eyes, which deprived me of the sight of it. The other soon after was attacked by inflammation, so severely, that for some time I lost the sight of that also; and, though it was subsequently restored, the organ was so much disordered as to remain permanently debilitated; while twice in my life, since, I have been deprived of the use of it for all purposes of reading and writing for several years together.
"It was during one of these periods that I received from Madrid the materials for the ' History of Ferdinand and Isabella,' and in my disabled condition, with my transatlantic treasures lying around me, I was like one pining from hunger in the midst of abundance. In this state I resolved to make the ear, if possible, do the work of the eye. I procured the services of a secretary, who read to me the various authorities; and in time I became so far familiar with the sounds of the different foreign languages (to some of which, indeed, I had been previously accustomed by a residence abroad) that I could comprehend his reading without much difficulty. As the reader proceeded, I dictated copious notes; and when these had swelled to a considerable amount, they were read to me repeatedly, till I had mastered their contents sufficiently for the purposes of composition. The same notes furnished an easy means of reference to sustain the text.
"Still another difficulty occurred in the mechanical labor of writing, which I found a severe trial to the eye. This was remedied by means of a writing-case, such as is used by the blind, which enabled me to commit my thoughts to paper without the aid of sight—serving me equally well in the dark as in the light. The characters thus formed made a near approach to hieroglyphics; but my secretary became expert in the art of deciphering, and a fair copy—with a liberal allowance for unavoidable blunders—was transcribed for the use of the printer. I have described the process with more minuteness, as some curiosity has been repeatedly expressed in reference to my modus operandi under my privations, and the knowledge of it may be of some assistance to others in similar circumstances.
"Though I was encouraged by the sensible progress of my work, it was necessarily slow. But in time the tendency to inflammation diminished, and the strength of the eye was confirmed more and more. It was at length so far restored that I could read for several hours of the day, though my labors in this way necessarily terminated with the daylight. Nor could I ever dispense with the services of a secretary, or with the writing-case; for, contrary to the usual experience, I have found writing a severer trial to the eye than reading—a remark, however, which does not apply to the reading of a manuscript; and to enable myself, therefore, to revise my compositions more carefully, I caused a copy of the 'History of Ferdinand and Isabella' to be printed for my own inspection before it was sent to the press for publication. Such as I have described was the improved state of my health during the preparation of the ' Conquest of Mexico;' and, satisfied with being raised so nearly to a level with the rest of my species, I scarcely envied the superior good fortune of those who could prolong their studies into the evening, and the later hours of the night.
"But a change has again taken place during the last two years. The sight of my eye has become gradually dimmed, while the sensibility of the nerve has been so far increased that, for several weeks of the last year, I have not opened a volume; and through the whole time, I have not had the use of it, on an average, for more than an hour a day. Nor can I cheer myself with the delusive expectation that, impaired as the organ has become—from having been tasked probably beyond its strength, it can ever renew its youth, or be of much service to me hereafter in my literary researches. Whether I shall have the heart to enter,
[begin surface 599]as I had proposed, on a new and more extensive field of historical labor with these impediments, I cannot say. Perhaps long habit, and a natural desire to follow up the career which I have so long pursued, may make this in a manner necessary, as my past experience has already proved that it is practicable.
"From this statement—too long, I fear, for his patience—the reader, who feels any curiosity about the matter, will understand the real extent of my embarrassments in my historical pursuits. That they have not been very light will be readily admitted, when it is considered that I have had but a limited use of my eye, in its best state, and that much of the time I have been debarred from the use of it altogether. Yet the difficulties I have had to contend with are very far inferior to those which fall to the lot of a blind man. I know of no historian, now alive, who can claim the glory of having overcome such obstacles but the author of 'La Conquete de l'Angleterre par les Normands,' who, to use his own touching and beautiful language, ' has made himself the friend of darkness,' and who, to a profound philosophy, that requires no light but that from within, unites a capacity for extensive and various research that might well demand the severest application of the student."
The materials for the history, we are informed, were drawn mostly from the archives of the Royal Academy of History, at Madrid, and were collected simultaneously with those of the "Conquest of Mexico." Manuscripts and materials have also been collected from other quarters, and altogether worked up, in the manner indicated in our author's Preface, into one of the most splendid works of modern historians.
Mr. Prescott commences with an interesting account of the extent of the Peruvian Empire; the topography of the country; the character of the people, and their condition, social, religious and political. We are presented with a glowing picture of a vast empire of industrious and frugal people, governed by a race of Incas, in a manner at once paternal and absolutely despotic. The people enjoyed plenty and ease, while their industry had accumulated vast national wealth. Of a warlike and sagacious character, their emperors, succeeding each other regularly and uninterruptedly during a period of four centuries, had successively extended the bounds of their empire over neighboring nations, until it absorbed all the Pacific slope of the Andes, from the 2d degree north to the 37th degree south latitude; yet this warlike and powerful chief, at once the supreme ruler of the nation and the object of its religious worship, while at the head of an immense army, amidst the impregnable fastnesses of his native mountains, at the zenith of his power, is suddenly seized by a Spaniard at the head of some 200 marauders, dropped as it were from the clouds, and executed; his army dispersed; his empire subverted; and his people given over to the dominion of strangers forever.
From amidst the variety of traditions and accounts embodied in the unreliable manner of the Spanish ecclesiastics, Mr. Prescott has sought the thread of the origin and descent of the Inca race. Tradition carries their advent back 400 years before the conquest, and some writers have given them a reign of 550 years; but inasmuch as that all accounts agree in the reign of thirteen Inca princes before this conquest, Mr. Prescott is inclined to suppose that two and a half centuries would be nearer the truth. It would appear that the domestic policy of the Peruvians approached the social organization of Fourier more than that of most nations. The lands were held on the plan of equal division, in a manner that must excite the admiration of a National Reformer. All the lands were divided into three services. 1st. For the sun, was set apart a sufficient quantity to support the gorgeous worship of that luminary, which formed the religion of the country. 2d. A sufficient quantity was assigned to support the Inca, his royal state, numerous kindred and household, and the wants of government.
[begin surface 600]All the remainder of the lands was distributed per capita among the people, who were subject to a new division every year. Every Peruvian was compelled to marry at a certain age; a lot of land was then assigned to him and his wife, and the district in which he lived furnished him a house. As his family progressed through births, an additional quantity of land was assigned him; or if death diminished his family, his domain was curtailed in proportion. All these three divisions of land were cultivated wholly by the able-bodied people. The lands of the sun were the first attended to; this was in the nature of a church tax. Next, those of the old, the rich, the widow, the orphan, or the soldier on duty; these were "poor rates and war taxes." Next, every man worked his own land, and lastly those of the Inca. By these means all the people were furnished with food. As under such a system there could be none destitute, so could there be none rich. The chief manufacture was the spinning and weaving of wool and cotton. All the sheep were appropriated exclusively to the sun and to the Inca, but were reared by the people. At the proper season they were all sheared, and the wool deposited in the public magazines; from thence it was distributed among the people in quantities sufficient to clothe each family; when that was done, cloth was to be made for the Inca according to orders. The officers appointed to attend to this, were also empowered to compel the labor and see that each family did its share. The mines were the property of the Inca, and worked for his account; all gold and silver were reserved for his use—money being as well unknown as unwanted. The most stupendous public works, roads, bridges and buildings, were also constructed by these people, in a manner to excite the astonishment of the beholder of their remains in the present day. Large magazines of food and clothes, consisting of the surplus proceeds of the general industry, were accumulated in all sections of the country. A solid and well-constructed stone causeway extended throughout the empire, and furnished the means of rapid communication from the most remote quarters, by means of runners, with the central government at Cusco. The mineral resources of Peru were immense, and have, since their development, had great influence upon commercial affairs throughout the world. This empire and these people, bound together by one language, one religion, and a singularly searching and inquisitive government of the most despotic form, had arrived at great prosperity at the commencement of the sixteenth century, but were singularly ignorant of all beyond the limit of their own rule, and were totally unknown to nations that had lived and thrived within a short distance of them. Their industry had drawn large quantities of gold and silver from the mines, and accumulated, to them, more useful wealth in the public magazines. At this period the Inca Huayna Copac came to the throne. He was a warlike and capable prince, and under him the state of Quito, which already rivalled Peru in wealth and refinement, was brought under the sceptre of the Incas. In his latter days, this prince got rumors of singular strangers, endowed with strange powers, having appeared in the north, and in their superior civilization he apprehended the worst to his power. This prince had two favorite sons by different mothers, Huascar and Atahuallpa; to the former he bequeathed Peru, and to the latter his conquest, Quito, when he died, about the year 1525, and for the first time the power of the Inca crown became divided. The two Incas soon quarreled, and Atahuallpa invaded Peru, defeated Huascar, imprisoned him, and slaughtered his kindred with circumstances of great atrocity, and remained master of the empire.
It is remarkable that this populous country, with its warlike chief, great wealth and advanced state of society, should have been as ignorant of the
[begin surface 601]existence of a similar empire on the northern continent, as were the Mexicans uninformed of their southern neighbors. At the time of the conquest of Mexico, central America and the islands swarmed with Spanish military adventurers, whose chief attraction was the gold with which it was supposed the new world abounded; yet none of these had crossed the land to the Pacific. In 1511, it is related while Balboa, the discoverer of the Southern Ocean, was weighing some gold collected from the natives, a young chief struck the scale with his fist and exclaimed, "If this is what you prize so much that you are willing to leave your homes, and risk even life itself for it, I can tell you of land where they eat and drink out of golden vessels, and gold is as cheap as iron is with you." This was supposed to be the first distinct notice which the Spaniards had of Peru; and shortly after Balboa penetrated across the isthmus and discovered the Pacific. Here further rumors were obtained in relation to the great southern empire, and the colony of Panama was founded. This colony became the focus for adventurers, and many expeditions were fitted out for northern discoveries, and one ineffectually took a southern direction. Repeated disappointment had considerably blunted the credulity of adventurers, and confidence began to be less easily excited in enterprises, where expense, danger, and great hardships were certain, and success very problematical. Three men were found, however, whose indomitable spirit, great courage and experienced life, peculiarly fitted them for conquest, and they became convinced of the existence of a great southern country where gold abounded. Of these, Francisco Pizarro was the chief. He was a native of Spain; had been from his youth up a military adventurer; had served in Italy and in various expeditions in the new world, and was, in 1522, a comparatively destitute and illiterate adventurer in Panama, 51 years of age. The second was Diego de Almagro, a Spanish soldier of fortune, somewhat older than Pizarro; and the third, Hernando de Luque, a clergyman. These three individuals united in the singular business of discovering and conquering empires. The two soldiers contributed what they had to fit out an expedition, but the priest was the capitalist, furnishing most of the funds. Almagro was, as it were, the commissary to fit out the vessels, and Pizarro the commander of the expedition. A small force of about 100 men were recruited among the desperate adventurers at Panama, and in November, 1524, Pizarro sailed. Almagro was to follow in another vessel as soon as possible. This expedition encountered incredible hardships, and met with no success. Pizarro, after being joined by Almagro, was compelled to remain in a dangerous spot, and send the latter back to the Governor for aid. On his arrival at Panama, Almagro could obtain nothing further from the Governor than his sanction to the enterprise. But the associates then entered into a solemn contract, by which de Luque was to advance, in gold, 20,000 pesos, equal perhaps to $200,000 in the present day; and the two captains were to prosecute the undertaking with due diligence, and they pledged themselves to reimburse de Luque if they failed in their contract. On these considerations the whole proceeds of the adventure, lands, treasures, rents, vassals and emoluments of all kinds, were to be divided in equal thirds, one for each partner. This contract was signed by responsible persons on behalf of Pizarro and Almagro, neither of whom could read or write. A new armament was then fitted out and met with but little better success. After the most incredible hardships, and the collection of some specimens of gold from the natives, it was decided that Almagro should again return to Panama, leaving Pizarro with his force to await his return on the Island of Gallo. His followers had become disgusted and wished to return, which he refused; and they sent secretly a letter, complaining that they were detained against their will, to
[begin surface 602]perish in the wilderness. This fell into the hands of the Governor, who was so much incensed at the results, that so far from giving the further aid asked, he sent an officer with two vessels to order home Pizarro and his men. This officer found the adventurers in the last stage of destitution and misery. "Half naked, and pining with famine, there were few in that little band who did not feel the spirit of enterprise quenched within them."
Pizarro, however, received advices from his associates, that if he remained firm they could send him aid. It was then that the greatness of his soul burst forth.
"Drawing his sword, he traced a line with it on the sand from east to west. Then turning towards the south, 'friends and comrades,' he said,' On that side are toil, hunger, nakedness, the drenching storm, desertion and death; on this side, ease and pleasure. There lies Peru with its riches; here Panama and its poverty. Choose each man, what best becomes a brave Castilian. For my part I go to the south.'"
Twelve men promptly crossed with him to abide his fortunes, the rest returned. But those thirteen were the conquerors of Peru. They remained, enduring privations for seven months, until the Pilot Ruiz arrived with a small vessel, but without recruits. In this vessel the voyage was prosecuted and the discovery of Peru completed. Pizarro then returned to Panama, where he was greeted by his confederates with joy; but their means were exhausted, and the Governor refused aid. In this extremity Luque proposed that Pizarro should go to Spain, and lay the matter before the imperial government.
This resulted like most such applications, in the liberal grant of title, and the right to do that which, had they possessed the means, would have been done without the government; but no means were bestowed. The "capitulation," as it was styled, with the government, conferred the chief posts and commands on Pizarro, to the exclusion of his confederate Almagro; and this led to dissensions between them, on the return of Pizarro, who endeavored to assure Almagro that the Emperor forced them upon himself; but the opinion is that Pizarro defrauded his companions. The difficulties were, however, healed for a time. The "capitulation" bound Pizarro to raise 250 men, one hundred from the colonies, and sail for Panama in six months; the government to furnish some supplies of artillery and military stores. Having signed the instruments, Pizarro visited his native town, and began to enlist men. Among the first who joined him were his four brothers, Francisco Martin, Juan, Gonzalo and Hernando, who were all very poor and very proud. Great difficulty was encountered in raising the means; and it is said that the aid of Hernando Cortes alone perfected the contract. Ultimately Pizarro sailed with part of the armament for Panama, in January, 1530, to be followed by his brother Hernando, with the remainder. On their arrival in Panama, the old contract was confirmed by the three confederates. After their mutual jealousies were healed, the expedition was forwarded. After raising all the recruits possible in the colonies, the force amounted to 180 men and 27 horses, in three vessels. Although well armed and equipped, one cannot but smile at such a force to conquer a distant empire. The third expedition started January, 1531, and soon came to anchor in the Bay of St. Mathews, in latitude one degree north, where they landed, and sent the vessels along the coast. The advancing Spaniards soon came to a thick settled hamlet, and stormed it at once; the flying people leaving large quantities of gold and precious stones in the hands of the invaders. A considerable quantity of large emeralds fell into the hands of the soldiers, who were porsuaded by one of the missionaries, Father Pedrosa, that real emeralds
[begin surface 603]could not be broken; and many of them submitted to this test were broken with hammers. As they, therefore, were looked upon as of little value, the good Father was enabled to carry a large number back to Panama on his own account. The largest portion of this plunder Pizarro sent back, in order to tempt recruits by the sight of the gold. The troops then advanced with various success along the coast, and received some supplies from a vessel which arrived under the command of de Soto, who afterwards made a famous exploration of the Mississippi. Pizarro then founded the colony of San Miguel de Piura. During his stay he learned important intelligence in regard to the political condition of Peru. He ascertained the result of the conflict between the brothers; that the victor, Atahuallpa, was encamped with his army at a distance of twelve days march, and he was somewhat startled at the accounts of the power and splendor of the victorious monarch. His force with its reinforcement amounted to 250 men; of these, fifty were required for the new settlement, and there remained 200 wherewith to meet the victorious Inca, and wrest his sceptre from his grasp. Yet he decided to march at once against the Inca. History scarcely presents a parallel to the boldness of this undertaking. To land in the midst of a populous country with a handful of men, and march into the interior to meet a powerful prince at the head of his army, trusting to fortune for the result, was a most desperate stake; and yet its very audacity was probably the only means of its success. After years of toil and hardship, he staked his all upon the cast, and won. The Inca, it would seem, was curious himself to see the wonderful strangers, of whose movements his messengers kept him accurately informed, and he allured them into the heart of the country, that he might be amused with them and crush them at his leisure. They therefore encountered no opposition as they advanced, but were met by the messengers of the Inca with friendly greeting.
On the fifth day's march, Pizarro mustered 110 foot and 67 horse, in good condition. The commander thought, however, that he detected signs of dissatisfaction in a few, and he determined to root it out before it spread. He therefore mustered them, and informed them that a crisis was approaching that required all their courage, and that no man should think of going forward without firmness of purpose; that if any wished to go back they should share the lands and vassals in San Miguel, which he wished to see in a stronger state of defence, &c. Nine men only accepted this remarkable offer and went back. The bold commander, who had thus weeded his corps, advanced with greater confidence. After great hardships and various vicissitudes, the little corps finally confronted the Inca. As the adventurers emerged on the eastern slope of the Andes, their eyes saw for miles in extent the white tents of the opposing troops, and the stoutest bosoms heaved more quickly at the sight. The Christian cavalcade was doubtless a matter of astonishment to the Indians. Pizarro, forming his corps into three divisions, marched down the slopes and entered the city of Caxamalca, amidst a concourse of warriors and astonished natives gazing at the strange soldiers. Here Hernando Pizarro and de Soto, as ambassadors from their commander, had an interview with the Inca, who promised to visit Pizarro on the following day. This was the crisis of the enterprise.
"Taking, then, a respectful leave of the Inca, the cavaliers rode back to Caxamalca, with many moody speculations on what they had seen—on the state and opulence of the Indian monarch—on the strength of his military array—their excellent appointments, and the apparent discipline in their ranks; all arguing a much higher degree of civilization, and consequently of power, than anything they had witnessed in the lower regions of the country. As they contrasted all this with
[begin surface 604]their own diminutive force—too far advanced, as they now were, for succor to reach them—they felt that they had done rashly in throwing themselves into the midst of so formidable an empire, and were filled with gloomy forebodings of the result. Their comrades in the camp soon caught the infectious spirit of despondency, which was not lessened as night came on; and they beheld the watch fires of the Peruvians lighting up the sides of the mountains, and glittering in the darkness 'as thick,' says one who saw them, ' as the stars in heaven.'
" Yet there was one bosom in that little host which was not touched with the feeling either of fear or dejection. That was Pizarro's; who secretly rejoiced that he had now brought matters to the issue for which he had so long panted."
After encouraging his troops, this determined man summoned his officers in council, and laid his plan before them, which was to seize the Inca on his visit, and make him prisoner in the face of his army! It became apparent that there was no alternative. To fight, to fly, or to remain long inactive, were alike fatal; and the plan was determined on. The Plaza, occupied by the Spaniards,
"Was defended on its three sides by low ranges of buildings, consisting of spacious halls, with wide doors or vomitories opening into the square. In these halls he stationed his cavalry in two divisions—one under his brother Hernando, and the other under De Soto. The infantry he placed in another of the buildings, reserving 20 men to act with himself as occasion might require. All received orders to wait, at their posts, the arrival of the Inca. After his entrance into the great square, they were still to remain under cover, till the signal was given by the discharge of a gun, when they were to cry their war cries, to rush out in a body from their covert, and putting the Peruvians to the sword, bear off the person of the Inca. * * *
"It was not long before sunset, when the van of the royal procession entered the gates of the city. First came some hundreds of the menials, employed to clear the path from every obstacle, and singing songs of triumph as they came,' which, in our ears,' says one of the conquerors, 'sounded like the songs of hell.' Then followed other bodies of different ranks, and dressed in different liveries. Some wore a showy staff, checkered white and red like the squares of a chessboard; others were clad in pure white, bearing banners or maces of silver or copper; and the guards, together with those in immediate attendance on the prince, were distinguished by a rich azure livery and a profusion of gay ornaments, while the large pendants attached to the ears distinguished the Peruvian noble.
"Elevated high above his vassals came the Inca Atahuallpa, borne on a sedan or open litter, on which was a sort of throne made of massive gold of inestimable value. The palanquin was lined with the richly-colored plumes of tropical birds, and studded with shining plates of gold and silver. The monarch's attire was richer than on the preceding evening. Round his neck was suspended a collar of emeralds of uncommon size and brilliancy. His short hair was decorated with golden ornaments, and the imperial borla encircled his temples. The bearing of the Inca was sedate and dignified; and from his lofty station he looked down on the multitudes below with an air of composure, like one accustomed to command.
"As the leading files of the procession entered the great square, larger—says an old chronicler—than any square in Spain, they opened to the right and left for the royal retinue to pass. Every thing was conducted with admirable order. The monarch was permitted to traverse the Plaza in silence, and not a Spaniard was to be seen. When some five or six thousand of his people had entered the place, Atahuallpa halted, and turning round with an inquiring look, demanded, 'Where are the strangers?'"
At this moment a Dominican friar, Father Valverde, afterwards Bishop of Cusco, coming forward with a Bible in one hand and a crucifix in the other, began to explain the principles of the Christian faith to the Inca. Atahuallpa listened patiently to the discourse, until he began to comprehend
[begin surface 605]that the drift of it was to persuade him to resign his sceptre and change his religion.
"I will be no man's tributary," said he, "I am greater than any prince upon earth. Your emperor may be a great prince; I do not doubt it, when I see that he has sent his subjects so far across the water! and I am willing to hold him as a brother. As for the Pope, of whom you speak, he must be crazy to talk of giving away countries that do not belong to him. For my faith, I will not change it. Your own God, as you say, was put to death by the very men he created. But mine,' he continued, pointing to his deity, then, alas! sinking in glory behind the mountains, ' my God still lives in the heavens, and looks down on his children.'
"He then demanded of Valverde by what authority he said these things. The friar pointed to the book which he held as his authority. Atahuallpa taking it, turned over the pages a moment; then, as the insult he had received probably flashed across his mind, he threw it down with vehemence, and exclaimed, 'Tell your comrades that they shall give me an account of their doings in my land. I will not go from here till they have made me full satisfaction for all the wrongs they have committed.'
"The friar, openly scandalized by the indignity offered to the sacred volume, stayed only to pick it up, and hastening to Pizarro, informed him of what had been done, exclaiming, at the same time, 'Do you not see, that while we stand here wasting our breath in talking with this dog, full of pride as he is, the fields are filling with Indians? Set on at once—I absolve you.' Pizarro saw that the hour had come. He waved a white scarf in the air, the appointed signal. The fatal gun was fired from the fortress. Then, springing into the square, the Spanish captain and his followers shouted the old war-cry of 'St. Jago, and at them.' It was answered by the battle-cry of every Spaniard in the city, as, rushing from the avenues of the great halls in which they were concealed, they poured into the Plaza, horse and foot, each in his own dark column, and threw themselves into the midst of the Indian crowd."
The results of this terrible onslaught, after half an hour's hard fighting, was the slaughter of from 2,000 to 10,000 Indians, and the capture of the Inca, without the loss of a Spaniard. Thus fell the Indian empire; for it seems to have been a consequence of the singular form of government, that the loss of the Inca totally disorganised the government as well as the army, which dispersed at once, and the conquest was in effect completed. The subsequent events, whereby the power of the Spaniards became consolidated in the country, are fraught with interest and instruction. Almost every man concerned in the scene of violence and rapine was overtaken by a just and terrible retribution, more particularly those concerned in the murder of the unfortunate Inca. After he had engaged to pay, and actually made over, gold and silver to the extent of $15,000,000 or $20,000,000, about the sum recently exacted by England of the Chinese, he perished miserably by the Gerrote, a victim to the policy of his conqueror. The arrival of Almagro with large reinforcements in the camp of Pizarro, soon after the immolation of the Inca, gave the means for prosecuting the plunder of the cities. After attempting, by the installation of Manco Capac as Inca, to control the people and subject them to his will, Pizarro returned to the coast and founded the city of Lima, where he was assassinated in 1541, nine years after the seizure of the Inca. Thenceforth the story is mostly of strife among the Spanish chiefs. A civil war between Almagro and Hernando Pizarro ended in the defeat and execution of the former, who had fallen prisoner to his old enemy; and the return of the latter to Spain, where he was thrown into prison, and remained there twenty years, and when released lived several years, completing the age of one hundred years. He was succeeded in the government of Cusco by Gonzalo Pizarro, who, expelling the incapable viceroy, Nunez, established himself in the government. Gonzalo was, however, inferior
[begin surface 606]to his brothers in firmness of purpose and extensiveness of views, being mainly indebted to his lieutenant Carbajal for his success. Carbajal was one of the most remarkable characters drawn out by the peculiar operations of the Spaniards in that age of the world. Although a monster of cruelty, he wins our admiration at his undaunted courage, his great sagacity, knowledge of men, and constancy of purpose. In his early life he entered the army, and served forty years in the Italian wars, where he witnessed the capture of Francis I. at Pavia. With booty obtained at the sack of Rome, he sought the new world, and for services under Pizarro was rewarded with a grant of land in Cusco. When the Viceroy Nunez was sent out to enforce those odious ordinances, which called forth the resistance of the colonists, headed by Gonzalo Pizarro, Carbajal, then eighty years old, joined Gonzalo, and his determined valor, steadiness of purpose, and sagacious advice, were mainly instrumental in placing Pizarro at the head of the government. He was noted for his inexorable severity towards those who, in the continual change of parties among the Spaniards, fell in his hands, as renegades to their party. These were promptly executed. When Pizarro, on the death of the Viceroy Nunez, became master of Peru, Carbajal advised him to cast off his allegiance to Spain, marry Coya, the female representative of the Incas, and proclaim himself king. For enterprise of such a nature, Gonzalo was, however, not capable. Yet it was the only sound policy under the circumstances, standing as they did in the attitude of rebellion to the crown; but he could not divine the future with the undaunted gaze of the veteran Carbajal. The Spanish government soon sent out a most able man, Pedro de la Gasca as viceroy, an ecclesiastic of great mind but humble deportment. He arrived without arms. By the moderation of his conduct, the good sense of his proclamation, and having in the " king's name a tower of strength," he soon won over the adherents of Pizarro, who had been prepared to resist force but not argument and clemency. As soon as Carbajal read the proclamations of de Gasca and witnessed their effect, his sagacious mind rightly estimated their true position, and he counselled Pizarro to accept the terms offered him. As, however, that chief was incapable of carrying out the advices of Cabajal on a previous occasion, so was he incapable of understanding his present position, and he proceeded to arm. Meanwhile, the adherents of Pizarro, affected by the proclamation of de Gasca, deserted in scores. His gallant army, which had been organised at great expense, "melted away like the mist," and he became bewildered by misfortune.
"Carbajal, who made a jest of every thing, even the misfortunes that pinched him sharpest, when told of the desertion of his comrades, amused himself by humming the words of a popular ditty: 'The wind blows the hairs off my head, mother, Two at a time it blows them away.'"
Gonzalo retired into Chili, and having organized a force, he, through the exertions of Carbajal, defeated the royal forces in a great battle, at Huarino, and entered Cusco in triumph. Gasca being joined by Valdivia, one of the best captains of Peru, advanced against Pizarro, and Carbajal advised a retreat; but Pizarro persisted in maintaining his ground, while he rejected until too late the proposal of Carbajal, to defend the bridge by which Gasca was approaching. As Gasca advanced, Pizarro had cause to distrust the fidelity of his followers; and as the armies confronted each other, his chief officers and men began to desert in squadrons, and the army speedily disbanded without fighting.
[begin surface 607]"Pizarro, amidst the general wreck, found himself left with only a few cavaliers who disdained to fly. Stunned by the unexpected reverse of fortune, the unhappy chief could hardly comprehend his situation. 'What remains for us ?' said he to Acosta, one of those who still adhered to him 'Fall on the enemy, since nothing else is left,' answered the iron-hearted soldier,' and die like Romans.' 'Better to die like Christians,' replied his commander; and slowly turning his horse, he rode off in the direction of the royal army.
"In this general wreck of their fortunes, Francisco de Carbajal fared no better than his chief. As he saw the soldiers deserting their posts, and going over to the enemy one after another, he coolly hummed the words of his favorite old ballad—
' The wind blows the hairs off my head, mother!'"When he sound himself alone, the stout old warrior attempted to escape; his aged horse broke down under him, and he was seized by some of his own followers, who hoped to make better terms for themselves by surrendering him; and they hurried him off to the quarters of Gasca.
The convoy was soon swelled by a number of common file from the royal army, some of whom had long arrears to settle with the prisoner; and not content with heaping reproaches and imprecations on his head, they now threatened to proceed to acts of violence, which Carbajal, far from deprecating, seemed rather to court, as the speediest way of ridding himself of life. When he approached the President's head-quarters, Centeno, who was near, rebuked the disorderly rabble, and compelled them to give way. Carbajal on seeing this, with a respectful air demanded to whom he was indebted for this courteous protection. To which his ancient comrade replied, "Do you not know me—Diego Centeno!" "I crave your pardon," said the veteran sarcastically, alluding to his long flight in the Charcas and his recent defeat at Huarino; "it is so long since I have seen anything but your back that I had forgotten your face." Pizarro was condemned to be beheaded, and Carbajal to be drawn and quartered. " No mercy was shown him who had shown none to others." Carbajal, when he heard his doom, remarked, " They can but kill me." Many visited him to upbraid him, and he indulged his caustic humor freely at their expense. One person, whose life Carbajal had formerly spared, was profuse in his professions to serve him. Carbajal cut him short, exclaiming, " and what service can you do me? can you set me free ? If you cannot do that, you can do nothing. If I spared your life, as you say, it was probably because I did not think it worth while to take it." Some pious persons wished him to see a priest and unburthen his conscience. " But of what use would that be ?" asked Carbajal, " I have nothing that lies heavy on my conscience, unless it be, indeed, the debt of half a real to a shopkeeper in Seville, which I forgot to pay before leaving the country !" Hardened as was the old soldier, he was clearly not of a nature sufficiently stern to make a banker of the present day. He was carried to execution in a kind of basket drawn by mules. When thrust into it, he exclaimed, " cradles for infants and a cradle for the old man too, it seems." He died at the age of 84, with the fires of youth glowing fiercely and unquenchably in his bosom. " He looked on life as a farce, though he too often made it a tragedy." Pizarro was shortly after beheaded, at 42 years of age, being the youngest of the Pizarros; and his death closed the fate of the remarkable family that had conquered the country, and given one of its richest jewels to the crown of Spain.
Gasca, after settling the country, leaving it prosperous and tranquil, returns to Spain, and, resigning his command, retired to his episcopal functions.
Thus far the history of that interesting country is brought down by the graphic pen of Mr. Prescott. The story is told in a manner more agreeable
[begin surface 608]than is usually encountered in the historic page; and the reader is impressed with the authenticity of the statements contained in the narrative.
By these means detailed, the Spaniards became possessed of a country of great wealth and vast importance. But, like all the rich possessions that have fallen to their lot, it was miserably misused. Its wealth was squandered; its people oppressed; its vast public works allowed to go to decay, and its great natural advantages utterly neglected. Peru, after three centuries of Christian rule of the Spaniards, is in a far worse condition than at the end of three centuries of the Pagan rule of the Incas. Although no accurate or approximate statement of the numbers of the people at the time of the conquest has been given, yet such data as have been handed down show that the population has been frightfully diminished. Probably the whole population, at present 1,500,000, is not one-tenth of the number under the last of the Incas. The chief causes of the depopulation have been the massacres by the Spaniards, suicides of the natives to escape the horrible oppression to which they have been exposed, the deaths produced by the involuntary service called "mita," exacted from the natives beyond their strength, smallpox, scarlet fever, &c. The mita has been supposed to have swept off four times as many as all the other causes together. Its abolition, of late years, has already produced recuperative effects on the population. For two hundred years the Indians submitted with exemplary patience to the horrible tyranny of their oppressors. In 1780 a more oppressive exaction of taxes roused a general opposition, which, headed by Tupac Amaru, threatened seriously the Spanish power, and might have succeeded, but for the treachery of an Indian, who betrayed the chief into the power of the Spaniards, and without a leader the Indians dispersed. This war resulted, however, in the abolition of a most oppressive tax. When the Spanish war of Independence took place, the natives fought occasionally on the side of the patriots, but had no clear idea of the objects of the war. Its effects were to supply them arms and teach them their use, and also the manufacture of gunpowder, with the materials of which the hills abound. The time is now fast approaching when the miserable Spanish race will be scourged from the country they have so long cursed with their presence, and the descendants of the ancient Incas will, after a lapse of three centuries, resume the sway of their fathers. It has only been the diminution of the numbers of the Indians that has thus far saved the Spaniards; and, therefore, in some sense, their very tyranny has been the means of prolonging it.
According to a late traveller, Dr. Von Tschudi, and other authorities, nothing can be more deplorable, in a physical or moral sense, than the present condition of the Spanish population of Peru. The population of Lima, in 1842, is given at 53,000, divided into five classes : 1st. White Creoles, 20,000; 2d. Indians, 5,300; 3d. Mixed races, Negroes, &c., 24,000; 4th. Slaves, 4,700; 5th. Ecclesiastics, 900. Dr. Tschudi gives nineteen different heads of the mixed races, all of whom, although in the lowest depths of degradation, look upon the Indians as " brutes." The white creoles are an effeminate, idle race, and exist there, apparently, but on the sufferance of the Indians.
Events are now transpiring in Mexico which will terminate Spanish dominion there forever; and we may hope that Peruvian disenthralment will follow Mexican emancipation in at least as short a period as its subjugation followed the conquests of Cortez, three hundred years since.
The Cordillera and the Andes—Signification of the terms—Altitude of the Mountains and Passes—Lakes—Metals—Aspect of the Cordillera—Shattered Rocks—Maladies caused by the diminished Atmospheric Pressure—The Veta and the Surumpe—Mountain Storms—The Condor—Its habits—Indian mode of Catching the Bird—The Puna or Despoblado—Climate—Currents of Warm Air—Vegetation—Tuberous Plant called the Maca—Animals of the Puna—The Llama, the Alpaco, the Huanacu and the Vicuña—The Chacu and the Bolas—Household Utensils of the Ancient Peruvians—The Viscacha and the Chinchilla—Puna Birds and Amphibia—Cattle and Pasture—Indian Farms—Shepherds' Huts—Ancient Peruvian Roads and Buildings—Treasure concealed by the Indians in the Puna.
Two great mountain chains, running parallel with each other, intersect Peru in the direction from S.S.W. to N.N.E. The chain nearest the coast of the Pacific is at the average distance of from sixty to seventy English miles from the sea. The other chain takes a parallel direction but describes throughout its whole course a slight curve eastward. These two ranges of mountain are called the Cordilleras, or the Andes: both terms being used indiscriminately. Even the creoles of Peru confound these two terms, sometimes calling the western chain by one name, and sometimes by the other. Nevertheless, a strict distinction ought to be observed:—the western chain should properly be called the Cordillera, and the eastern chain the Andes. The latter name is derived from the Quichua word Antasuyu; Anta signifying metal generally, but especially copper, and Suyu a district; the meaning of Antasuyu, therefore, is the metal district. In common parlance, the word Suyu was dropped, and the termination a in Anta was converted into is. Hence the word Antis, which is employed by all old writers and geographers; and even now, is in common use among the Indian population of Southern
[begin surface 610]Peru. The Spaniards, according to their practice of corrupting the words of the Quichua language, have transformed Antis into Andes, and they apply the name without distinction to the western and the eastern chain of mountains. *
The old inhabitants of Peru dwelt chiefly along the base of the eastern mountain chain, where they drew from the mines the metal which afforded material for their tasteful and ingenious workmanship: those mountains consequently retained the name of Antis or Andes. In the time of the Incas, both chains were called Ritisuyu (Snow-Districts). The Spaniards, on the invasion of the country, advancing from the sea-coast, first arrived at the western mountains, and to them they gave the name of Cordillera, the term commonly employed in the Spanish language, to designate any mountain chain. Most of the earlier travellers and topographists named the western chain the Cordillera de los Andes, and regarded it as the principal chain, of which they considered the eastern mountains to be merely a branch. To the eastern range of mountains they gave the name of Cordillera Oriental. I will here strictly observe the correct denominations, calling the western chain the Cordillera, or the coast mountains; and the eastern chain the Andes, or the inner Cordillera.
These two great mountain chains stand in respect to height in an inverse relation one to the other; that is to say, the greater the elevation of the Cordillera, the more considerable is the depression of the Andes. In South Peru the ridge of the Cordillera is considerably lower than that portion of the Andes which stretches through Bolivia. The medium height of the Cordillera in South Peru is 15,000 feet above the sea; but here and there particular points rise to a much more considerable elevation. The medium height of the Andes is 17,000 feet above the sea. In central Peru the Cordillera is higher than the Andes. There the altitude of the latter along the body of the chain is 13,000 feet above the sea : on the ridge there are a few points some
* Some derive the word Andes from the people called Antis, who dwelt at the foot of these chains of mountains. A province in the department of Cuzco, which was probably the chief settlement of that nation, still bears the name of Antas. [begin surface 611]hundred feet higher. Between Pasco and Loxas the average height of the Cordillera is between 11,000 and 12,000 feet above the sea; and the average elevation of the Andes at the corresponding point is about 2000 feet lower.
The passes do not run through valleys, but always over the ridges of the mountains. The highest mountain passes are the Rinconada (16,452 feet above the sea); the Piedra Parada (16,008 feet); the Tingo (15,600 feet); the Huatillas (14,850 feet); the Portachuelo de la Viuda (14,544 feet); the Altos de Toledo (15,530 feet); and the Altos de los Huesos (14,300 feet). In both chains there are innumerable small lakes; these are met with in all the mountain passes, and most of them are the sources of small rivers.
Both the mountain chains, as well as their lateral branches, are rich in metallic produce; but in the principal mountains gold is rare. Some rich mines on the coast, and in the province of Arequipa, are now nearly exhausted. Wash gold is plentiful in the rivers of North Peru, but it is not carefully collected. Silver, which constitutes the principal wealth of Peru, is found in greatest abundance in the principal chains, viz., in Northern and Central Peru, in the Cordillera; and in Southern Peru in the Andes. It presents itself in all forms and combinations, from the pure metal to the lead-ore mixed with silver. Even in the highest elevations, in parts scarcely trodden by human footsteps, rich veins of silver are discovered. It is scarcely possible to pass half a day in these regions without encountering new streaks. Quicksilver is likewise found, but in such small quantities, that the gain does not pay the labor of the miners. The only quicksilver vein of any magnitude is at Huancavelica. Both mountain chains are very rich in copper-ore; but it is extracted only from the Cordillera, for the distance of the Andes from the coast renders the transport too expensive. The lead and iron mines, though amazingly prolific, are not worked; the price of the metal being too low to pay the labor.
The Cordillera presents an aspect totally different from that of the Andes. It is more wild and rugged, its ridge is broader, and its summits less pyramidical. The summits of the Andes terminate in slender sharp points like needles. The Cordillera
[begin surface 612]descends in terraces to the level heights, whilst the slope of the Andes is uniform and unbroken. The summits of the calcareous hills which stretch eastward from the great chain of the Cordillera are broken and rugged. Large cubical blocks of stone become detached from them, and roll down into the valleys. In the Quebrada of Huari near Yanaclara, which is 13,000 feet above the sea, I collected among other fragments of rock some of a species which is found at Neufchatel in Switzerland. This disintegration, which is the effect of protracted rain and cold, imparts to the mountain ridges the most singular and beautiful forms; their fantastic outlines appearing like the work of human hands. Imagination may easily picture them to be monuments of the time of the Incas; for viewed from a distance, they look like groups of giants or colossal animals. In former times the Indians viewed these masses of rock with devout reverence, for they believed them to be the early inhabitants of the earth whom Pacchacamac in his anger transformed to stone. I may here notice some very curious forms of rock which have long been a subject of controversy among Peruvian travellers. On the road leading from Ayacucho to Huancavelica, on the level height of Paucara, about a league beyond the village of Parcos, there is a considerable number of sand-stone pyramids from eight to twenty-two feet high. They are of a reddish-white color; but in many places the inclemency of the weather has overspread them with a blackish crust. They are detached one from another. Ulloa, in his Noticias Americanas, after fully describing these pyramids, declares himself doubtful whether they are the work of man or of nature. He inclines to regard them as human creations, and suggests that they may possibly have been the tombs of distinguished curacas and caciques; but he admits that he is not acquainted with any similar monuments in Peru. As each pyramid consists of only one block of stone, and all are very regularly shaped, Ulloa is not indisposed to believe that the Indians possessed the secret art of melting stone. These blocks are, however, of sand-stone, and their fractures are the result of the inclemency of the weather. They are all pyramidal-shaped, and tolerably equal in size. In several of them the points are as sharp and regular as though they had been wrought by the chisel
[begin surface 613]of the sculptor. These curious pyramids cover the plateau along a distance of more than two miles : sometimes standing closely together, and sometimes at considerable distances apart. The whole line of chalk and slate mountains extending from Ayacucho to Huancavelica is shattered, and presents similar, though less regular detritus.
I have, in my last chapter, observed that the Cordillera is the point of partition between the waters of the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans. All the waters of the eastern declivity of the Cordillera—all those which have their source on the level heights and on the western declivity of the Andes,—flow from thence in the direction of the east, and work their way through the eastern mountain chain. Throughout the whole extent of South America there is not a single instance of the Cordillera being intersected by a river; a fact the more remarkable because in Southern Peru and Bolivia, the coast chain is lower than the Andes. This interesting phenomenon, though it has deeply engaged the attention of geologists, has not yet been satisfactorily explained. I concur in the view taken by Mr. Darwin, who observes that it would be too rash to assign to the eastern chain of Bolivia and Central Chile, a later origin than the western chain, (that nearest the Pacific), but that the circumstance of the rivers of a lower mountain chain having forced their way through a higher chain seems, without this supposition, to be enigmatical. Mr. Darwin is of opinion that the phenomenon is assignable to a periodical and gradual elevation of the second mountain line (the Andes); for a chain of islets would at first appear, and as these were lifted up, the tides would be always wearing deeper and broader channels between them.
In the heights of the Cordillera the effect of the diminished atmospheric pressure on the human frame shows itself in intolerable symptoms of weariness and an extreme difficulty of breathing. The natives call this malady the Puna or the Soroche; and the Spanish Creoles give it the names of Mareo or Veta. Ignorant of its real causes they ascribe it to the exhalations of metals, especially antimony, which is extensively used in the mining operations. The first symptoms of the veta are usually felt at the elevation of 12,600 feet above the sea. These symptoms
[begin surface 614]are vertigo, dimness of sight and hearing, pains in the head and nausea. Blood flows from the eyes, nose, and lips. Fainting fits, spitting of blood, and other dangerous symptoms, usually attend severe attacks of veta. The sensations which accompany this malady somewhat resemble those of sea-sickness, and hence its Spanish name mareo. But sea-sickness is unaccompanied by the distressing difficulty of breathing experienced in the veta. This disorder sometimes proves fatal, and I once witnessed a case in which death was the result. Inhabitants of the coast and Europeans, who for the first time visit the lofty regions of the Cordillera, are usually attacked with this disorder. Persons in good health and of a spare habit speedily recover from it, but on plethoric and stout individuals its effects are frequently very severe. After an abode of some time in the mountainous regions, the constitution becomes inured to the rarefied atmosphere. I suffered only two attacks of the veta; but they were very severe. The first was on one of the level heights; and the second on the mountain of Antaichahua. The first time I ascended the Cordillera I did not experience the slightest illness, and I congratulated myself on having escaped the veta; but a year afterwards I had an attack of it, though only of a few hours' duration. The veta is felt with great severity in some districts of the Cordillera, whilst in others, where the altitude is greater, the disorder is scarcely perceptible. Thus it would seem that the malady is not caused by diminished atmospheric pressure, but is dependent on some unknown climatic circumstances. The districts in which the veta prevails with greatest intensity are, for the most part, rich in the production of metals, a circumstance which has given rise to the idea that it is caused by metallic exhalations.
I have already described the effect of the Puna climate on beasts of burthen. Its influence on some of the domestic animals is no less severe than on the human race. To cats, it is very fatal, and at the elevation of 13,000 feet above the sea these animals cannot live. Numerous trials have been made to rear them in the villages of the upper mountains, but without effect; for after a few days' abode in those regions, the animals die in frightful convulsions; but when in this state they do not attempt to bite. I had two good opportunities of observing the disease at
[begin surface 615]Yauli. Cats attacked in this way are called, by the natives, azorochados, and antimony is alleged to be the cause of the distemper. Dogs are also liable to it, but it visits them less severely than cats, and with care they may be recovered.
Another scourge of the traveller in the Cordillera, is the disease called the Surumpe. It is a violent inflammation of the eyes, caused by the sudden reflection of the bright rays of the sun on the snow. By the rarefied air and the cutting wind, the eyes, being kept in a constant state of irritation, are thereby rendered very susceptible to the effects of the glaring light. In these regions the sky is often for a time completely overshadowed by snow clouds, and the greenish yellow of the plain is soon covered by a sheet of snow : then suddenly the sun's rays burst through the breaking clouds, and the eyes, unprepared for the dazzling glare, are almost blinded. A sharp burning pain is immediately felt, and it speedily increases to an intolerable degree. The eyes become violently inflamed, and the lids swell and bleed. The pain of the surumpe is the most intense that can be imagined, and frequently brings on delirium. The sensation resembles that which it may be imagined would be felt if cayenne pepper or gunpowder were rubbed into the eyes. Chronic inflammation, swenllig of the eyelids, dimness of sight, and even total blindness are the frequent consequences of the surumpe. In the Cordillera, Indians are often seen sitting by the road-side shrieking in agony, and unable to proceed on their way. They are more liable to the disease than the Creoles, who, when travelling in the mountains, protect their eyes by green spectacles and veils.
Heavy falls of snow in the Cordillera are usually accompanied by thunder and lightning. During five months of the year, from November to March, storms are of daily occurrence. They begin, with singular regularity, about three o'clock in the afternoon, and continue until five or half-past five in the evening. After that time storms of thunder and lightning never occur; but the falls of snow sometimes continue till midnight. As evening approaches, cold mists are drifted from the mountain-tops down upon the plains; but they are dispersed by the rays of the morning sun, which in a few hours melt the snow. The furious tempests in these regions exceed any idea that can be
[begin surface 616]formed of them, and can only be conceived by those who have witnessed them. Some of these mountain districts have acquired an ominous character for storms; Antaichahua is one of the places to which this sort of fearful celebrity belongs. For hours together flash follows flash, painting blood-red cataracts on the naked precipices. The forked lightning darts its zig-zag flashes on the mountain-tops, or, running along the ground, imprints deep furrows in its course; whilst the atmosphere quivers amidst uninterrupted peals of thunder, repeated a thousandfold by the mountain echoes. The traveller, overtaken by these terrific storms, dismounts from his trembling horse, and takes refuge beneath the shelter of some overhanging rock.
In these sterile heights, Nature withholds her fostering influence alike from vegetable and animal life. The scantiest vegetation can scarcely draw nutriment from the ungenial soil, and animals shun the dreary and shelterless wilds. The condor alone finds itself in its native element amidst these mountain deserts. On the inaccessible summits of the Cordillera that bird builds its nest, and hatches its young in the months of April and May. Few animals have attained so universal a celebrity as the condor. That bird was known in Europe, at a period when his native land was numbered among those fabulous regions which are regarded as the scenes of imaginary wonders. The most extravagant accounts of the condor were written and read, and general credence was granted to every story which travellers brought from the fairy land of gold and silver. It was only at the commencement of the present century that Humboldt overthrew the extravagant notions that previously prevailed respecting the size, strength, and habits of that extraordinary bird.
The full-grown condor measures, from the point of the beak to the end of the tail, from four feet ten inches to five feet; and from the tip of one wing to the other, from twelve to thirteen feet. This bird feeds chiefly on carrion : it is only when impelled by hunger that he seizes living animals, and even then only the small and defenceless, such as the young of sheep, vicuñas, and llamas. He cannot raise great weights with his feet, which, however, he uses to aid the power of his beak. The principal strength of the condor lies in his neck and in his feet;
[begin surface 617]yet he cannot, when flying, carry a weight exceeding eight or ten pounds. All accounts of sheep and calves being carried off by condors are mere exaggerations. This bird passes a great part of the day in sleep, and hovers in quest of prey chiefly in the morning and evening. Whilst soaring at a height beyond the reach of human eyes, the sharp-sighted condor discerns his prey on the level heights beneath him, and darts down upon it with the swiftness of lightning. When a bait is laid, it is curious to observe the numbers of condors which assemble in a quarter of an hour, in a spot near which not one had been previously visible. These birds possess the senses of sight and smell in a singularly powerful degree.
Some old travellers, Ulloa among others, have affirmed that the plumage of the condor is invulnerable to a musket-ball. This absurdity is scarcely worthy of contradiction; but it is nevertheless true that the bird has a singular tenacity of life, and that it is seldom killed by fire-arms, unless when shot in some vital part. Its plumage, particularly on the wings, is very strong and thick. The natives, therefore, seldom attempt to shoot the condor: they usually catch him by traps or by the laso, or kill him by stones flung from slings, or by the Bolas. A curious method of capturing the condor alive is practised in the province of Abancay. A fresh cow-hide, with some fragments of flesh adhering to it, is spread out on one of the level heights, and an Indian provided with ropes creeps beneath it, whilst some others station themselves in ambush near the spot, ready to assist him. Presently a condor, attracted by the smell of the flesh, darts down upon the cow-hide, and then the Indian, who is concealed under it, seizes the bird by the legs, and binds them fast in the skin, as if in a bag. The captured condor flaps his wings, and makes ineffectual attempts to fly; but he is speedily secured, and carried in triumph to the nearest village.
The Indians quote numerous instances of young children having been attacked by condors. That those birds are sometimes extremely fierce is very certain. The following occurrence came within my own knowledge, whilst I was in Lima. I had a condor, which, when he first came into my possession, was very young. To prevent his escape, as soon as he was able to
[begin surface 618]fly, he was fastened by the leg to a chain, to which was attached a piece of iron of about six pounds weight. He had a large court to range in, and he dragged the piece of iron about after him all day. When he was a year and a half old he flew away, with the chain and iron attached to his leg, and perched on the spire of the church of Santo Tomas, whence he was scared away by the carrion hawks. On alighting in the street, a Negro attempted to catch him for the purpose of bringing him home; upon which he seized the poor creature by the ear, and tore it completely off. He then attacked a child in the street (a Negro boy of three years old), threw him on the ground, and knocked him on the head so severely with his beak, that the child died in consequence of the injuries. I hoped to have brought this bird alive to Europe; but, after being at sea two months on our homeward voyage, he died on board the ship in the latitude of Monte Video.
Between the Cordillera and the Andes, at the height of 12,000 feet above the sea, there are vast tracts of uninhabited table-lands. These are called in the Quichua language the Puna; and the Spaniards give them the name of the Despoblado (the uninhabited). These table-lands form the upper mountain regions of the South American Highlands. They spread over the whole extent of Peru, from north-west to south-east, a distance of 350 Spanish miles, continuing through Bolivia, and gradually running eastward into the Argentine Republic. With reference to geography and natural history, these table-lands present a curious contrast to the Llanos (plains) of South America, situated on the other side of the Andes to the north-east. Those boundless deserts, full of organic life, are, like the Puna, among the most interesting characteristics of the New World.
The climate of these regions is not less rigorous than that of the high mountain ridges. Cold winds, from the west and south-west, blow nearly all the year round from the ice-topped Cordillera; and for the space of four months these winds are daily accompanied by thunder, lightning, and snow-storms. The average state of the thermometer during the cold season (which is called summer, because it then seldom snows) is, during the night, —5° R.; and at midday, +9° 7ʹ R. In winter
[begin surface 619]the mercury seldom falls during the night below freezing point, and it continues between +1° and 0° R.; but at noon it ascends only to 7° R. It is, however, quite impossible to determine with precision the medium temperature of these regions. For the space of a few hours the heat will frequently vary between 18° and 20° R. The transition is the more sensibly felt on the fall of the temperature, as it is usually accompanied by sharp-biting winds, so keen, that they cut the skin on the face and hands. A remarkable effect of the Puna wind is its power of speedily drying animal bodies, and thereby preventing putridity. A dead mule is, in the course of a few days, converted into a mummy; not even the entrails presenting the least trace of decomposition.
It frequently happens that, after being long exposed to these cold winds, the traveller enters warm atmospheric currents. These warm streams are sometimes only two or three paces, and at other times, several hundred feet broad. They run in a parallel direction with each other, and one may pass through five or six of them in the course of a few hours. On the level heights between Chacapalpa and Huancavelica, I remarked that they were especially frequent during the months of August and September. According to my repeated observations, I found that these warm streams chiefly follow the direction of the Cordillera; namely, from S.S.W. to N.N.E. I once travelled the distance of several leagues through a succession of these currents of warm air, none of which exceeded seven-and-twenty paces in breadth. Their temperature was 11° R. higher than that of the adjacent atmosphere. It would appear they are not merely temporary, for the mule-drivers can often foretel with tolerable accuracy where they will be encountered. The causes of these phenomena well merit the investigation of meteorologists.
The aspect of the Puna is singularly monotonous and dreary. The expansive levels are scantily covered with grasses of a yellowish-brown hue, and are never enlivened by fresh-looking verdure. Here and there, at distant intervals, may be seen a few stunted Queñua trees (Polylepis racemosa, R. P.), or large patches of ground covered with the Ratanhia shrub * (Krameria
* From the most remote times the Ratanhia has been employed by the [begin surface 620]triandria, R. P.). Both are used by the Indians as fuel, and for roofing their huts.
The cold climate and sterile soil of the Puna are formidable impediments to agriculture. Only one plant is cultivated in these regions with any degree of success. It is the maca, a tuberous root grown like the potatoe, and like it used as an article of food. In many of the Puna districts the maca constitutes the principal sustenance of the inhabitants. It has an agreeable, and somewhat sweetish flavor, and when boiled in milk it tastes like the chestnut. As far as I am aware this plant has not been mentioned by any traveller, nor has its botanical character yet been precisely determined. Possibly it is a species of Tropæolum, but of this I am uncertain. The root is about the size of a large chestnut. Macas may be kept for more than a year, if, after being taken from the earth, they are left a few days to dry in the sun, and then exposed to the cold. By this means they become shrivelled and very hard. From these dried macas, the Indians prepare a sort of soup or rather syrup, which diffuses a sweet sickly sort of odor, but which, when eaten with roasted maize, is not altogether unpalatable. The maca thrives best at the height of between 12,000 and 13,000 feet above the sea. In the lower districts it is not planted, for the Indians declare it to be flavorless when grown there. Besides the maca, barley is reared in the Puna. I saw there fields of barley 13,200 feet above the sea. It does not, however, attain full maturity, seldom even shoots into ears, and is cut whilst green as fodder for horses.
But poor and scanty as is the vegetation of the Puna, the animal kingdom is there richly and beautifully represented. Those regions are the native home of the great Mammalia, which Peru possessed before horses and black cattle were introduced by the
Indians as a medicine. It is one of their favorite remedies against spitting of blood and dysentery. Most of the Ratanhia exported to Europe is obtained in the southern provinces of Peru, particularly in Arica and Islay. The extract which is prepared in Peru, and which was formerly sent in large quantities to Europe, is now scarcely an object of traffic. For several years past no Ratanhia has been shipped from Callao, and but very little from Truxillo. [begin surface 621]Spaniards. I allude to the llama and his co-genera the alpaco, the huanacu, and the vicuña. On these interesting animals I will subjoin a few observations. * The two first are kept as domestic animals; the llama perfectly, and the alpaco partially tame.
The llama measures from the sole of the hoof to the top of the head, 4 feet 6 to 8 inches; from the sole of the hoof to the shoulders, from 2 feet 11 inches to 3 feet. The female is usually smaller and less strong than the male, but her wool is finer and better. The color is very various; generally brown, with shades of yellow or black; frequently speckled, but very rarely quite white or black. The speckled brown llama is in some districts called the moromoro.
The young llamas are left with the dam for about the space of a year, after which time they are removed and placed with flocks. When about four years old, the males and females are separated; the former are trained to carry burthens, and the latter are kept in the pastures of the level heights. Most of the flocks of llamas are reared in the southern Puna provinces, viz. : —Cuzco and Ayacucho, and from thence they are sent to the silver mines of North Peru. The price of a strong full-grown llama is from three to four dollars; but if purchased in flocks in the provinces above named, they may be had for one and a half or two dollars each. Shortly after the conquest the price of one of these animals was between eighteen and twenty ducats; but the increase of horses, mules, and sheep, lowered their value. The burthen carried by the llama should not exceed one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and the animal is seldom laden with more than a hundred-weight. When the llama finds his burthen too heavy he lies down, and cannot be made to rise until some portion of the weight is removed from his back. In the silver mines the llamas are of the most important utility, as they frequently carry the metal from the mines in places where the de-
* More lengthened information respecting them may be found in the " Fauna Peruana." I have there noted all their specific varieties, and have corrected the erroneous accounts given of them by some previous travellers. [begin surface 622]as beasts of burthen. In the menageries of Europe, huanacus brought from Chile are frequently represented to be llamas.
The vicuña is a more beautiful animal than any of those just described. Its size is between that of the llama and the alpaco. It measures from the sole of the foot to the top of the head four feet one inch, and two and a half feet to the shoulders. The neck is longer and more slender than in either of the other relative species; and from them the vicuña is also distinguished by the superior fineness of its short, curly wool. The crown of the head, the upper part of the neck, the back, and thighs are of a peculiar reddish-yellow hue, called by the people of the country color de vicuña. The lower part of the neck, and the inner parts of the limbs, are of a bright ochre color, and the breast and lower part of the body are white.
During the rainy season the vicuña inhabits the ridges of the Cordillera, where some scanty vegetation is to be found. It never ventures up to the naked rocky summits, for its hoofs being accustomed only to turfy ground, are very soft and tender. It lives in herds, consisting of from six to fifteen females, and one male, who is the protector and leader of the herd. Whilst the females are quietly grazing, the male stands at the distance of some paces apart, and carefully keeps guard over them. At the approach of danger he gives a signal, consisting of a sort of whistling sound, and a quick movement of the foot. Immediately the herd draws closely together, each animal anxiously stretching out its head in the direction of the threatening danger. They then take to flight; first moving leisurely and cautiously, and then quickening their pace to the utmost degree of speed; whilst the male vicuña who covers the retreat frequently halts, to observe the movements of the enemy. The females, with singular fidelity and affection, reward the watchful care of their protector. If he is wounded or killed, they gather round him in a circle, uttering their shrill tones of lamentation, and they will suffer themselves to be captured or killed, rather than desert him by pursuing their flight. The neigh of the vicuña, like that of the other animals of its class, resembles a short, sharp whistle. But when the shrill sound vibrates through the pure Puna air,
[begin surface 623]the practised ear can readily distinguish the cry of the vicuña from that of the other animals of the same family.
The Indians seldom employ fire-arms in hunting the vicuñas. They catch them by what they term the chacu. In this curious hunt, one man at least belonging to each family in the Puna villages takes a part, and women accompany the train, to officiate as cooks to the hunters. The whole company, frequently amounting to seventy or eighty individuals, proceeds to the Altos (the most secluded parts of the Puna), which are the haunts of the vicuñas. They take with them stakes, and a great quantity of rope and cord. A spacious open plain is selected, and the stakes are driven into the ground in a circle, at intervals of from twelve to fifteen feet apart, and are connected together by ropes fastened to them at the height of two or two and a half feet from the ground. The circular space within the stakes is about half a league in circumference, and an opening of about two hundred paces in width is left for entrance. On the ropes by which the stakes are fastened together the women hang pieces of colored rags, which flutter about in the wind. The chacu being fully prepared, the men, some of whom are mounted on horseback, range about within a circuit of several miles, driving before them all the herds of vicuñas they meet with, and forcing them into the chacu. When a sufficient number of vicuñas is collected, the entrance is closed. The timid animals do not attempt to leap over the ropes, being frightened by the fluttering rags suspended from them, and, when thus secured, the Indians easily kill them by the bolas. These bolas consist of three balls, composed either of lead or stone; two of them heavy, and the third rather lighter. They are fastened to long, elastic strings, made of twisted sinews of the vicuña, and the opposite ends of the strings are all tied together. The Indian holds the lightest of the three balls in his hand, and swings the two others in a wide circle above his head; then, taking his aim at the distance of about fifteen or twenty paces, he lets go the hand-ball, upon which all the three balls whirl in a circle, and twine round the object aimed at. The aim is usually taken at the hind legs of the animals, and the cords twisting round them, they become firmly bound. It requires great skill and long practice to throw
[begin surface 624]the bolas dexterously, especially when on horseback : a novice in the art incurs the risk of dangerously hurting either himself or his horse, by not giving the balls the proper swing, or by letting go the hand-ball too soon.
The vicuñas, after being secured by the bolas, are killed, and the flesh is distributed in equal portions among the hunters. The skins belong to the Church. The price of a vicuña skin is four reals. When all the animals are killed, the stakes, ropes, &c., are packed up carefully, and conveyed to another spot, some miles distant, where the chacu is again fixed up. The hunting is continued in this manner for the space of a week. The number of animals killed during that interval varies according to circumstances, being sometimes fifty or sixty, and at other times several hundred. During five days I took part in a chacu hunt in the Altos of Huayhuay, and in that space of time 122 vicuñas were caught. With the money obtained by the sale of the skins a new altar was erected in the church of the district. The flesh of the vicuña is more tender and better flavored than that of the llama. Fine cloth and hats are made of the wool. When taken young, the vicuñas are easily tamed, and become very docile; but when old, they are intractable and malicious. At Tarma I possessed a large and very fine vicuña. It used to follow me like a dog whenever I went out, whether on foot or on horseback.
The frequent hunting seems not to have the effect of diminishing the numbers of these animals. If in the vicinity of the villages where chacus are frequently established, they are less numerous than in other parts, it is because, to elude the pursuit of the hunters, they seek refuge in the Altos, where they are found in vast numbers. Several modern travellers have lamented the diminution of the vicuñas, but without reason. In former times those animals were hunted more actively than at present.
Under the dynasty of the Incas, when every useful plant and animal was an object of veneration, the Peruvians rendered almost divine worship to the llama and his relatives, which exclusively furnished them with wool for clothing, and with flesh for food. The temples were adorned with large figures of these animals made of gold and silver, and their forms were represented
[begin surface 625]in domestic utensils made of stone and clay. In the valuable collection of Baron Clemens von Hügel at Vienna, there are four of these vessels, composed of porphyry, basalt, and granite, representing the four species, viz., the llama, the alpaco, the huanacu, and the vicuña. These antiquities are exceedingly scarce, and when I was in Peru I was unable to obtain any of them. How the ancient Peruvians, without the aid of iron tools, were able to carve stone so beautifully, is inconceivable.
Besides the animals above mentioned, several others peculiar to the Puna are deserving of remark. Among these are the Tarush (Cervus antisiensis, Orb.); the timid roe, which inhabits the high forests skirting the Andes; the Viscacha (Lagidium peruanum, May, and L. pallipes, Benn.), and the Chinchilla (Eriomys Chinchilla, Licht.), whose skin supplies the beautiful fur so much prized by the ladies of Europe. The viscachas and chinchillas resemble the rabbit in form and color, but they have shorter ears and long rough tails. They live on the steep rocky mountains, and in the morning and evening they creep out from their holes and crevices to nibble the alpine grasses. At night the Indians set before their holes traps made of horse-hair, in which the animals are easily caught. The most remarkable of the beasts of prey in these high regions is the Atoc (Canis Azaræ, Pr. Max.). It is a species of fox, which is found throughout the whole of South America. The warmer Puna valleys are inhabited by the (Felis concolor, L.), or, as the Indians call it, the . When driven by hunger, this animal ventures into the loftiest Puna regions, even to the boundary of the eternal snow. The wild Hucumari (Ursus ornatus, Fr. Cuv.) but seldom wanders into the cold Puna. The hucumari is a large black bear, with a white muzzle and light-colored stripes on the breast.
Of the numerous Puna birds, the majority of which may be classed as water-fowl, I will notice only a few of the most characteristic. Next to the condor, the most remarkable bird of prey is the Huarahuau, or the Aloi (Polyborus megalopterus, Cob.), * one of the gyr-falcon species. This bird, which is a constant inhabitant of the level heights, preys on the carcases of dead
* Phalcoboenus montanus, Orb. [begin surface 626]horses, mules, &c., but never attempts to meddle with living animals. It is very harmless, and has so little timidity, that it suffers itself to be approached near enough to be knocked down with a stick. The Acacli, or Pito (Colaptes rupicola, Orb.), flutters about the mountains; it is a woodpecker, brown-speckled, with a yellow belly. This bird is seen in very great numbers, and it is difficult to imagine how it procures food in the Puna, where there are no insects. All the other woodpecker species exclusively confine themselves to woody regions.
The thickets of rushy grass are inhabited by the Pishacas, or Yutu, a species of partridge (Tinamotis Pentlandii, Vig.) which the Indians catch by dogs. These dogs of the Puna Indians are a peculiar race (Canis Ingae, Tsch.). They are distinguished by a small head, a pointed muzzle, small erect ears, a tail curling upwards, and a thick shaggy skin. They are in a half-wild state, and very surly and snappish. They furiously attack strangers, and even after having received a deadly wound they will crawl along the ground, and make an effort to bite. To white people they appear to have a particular antipathy; and sometimes it becomes rather a venturous undertaking for a European traveller to approach an Indian hut, for these mountain dogs spring up to the sides of the horse, and try to bite the rider's legs. They are snarlish and intractable even to their masters, who are often obliged to enforce obedience by the help of a stick. Yet these dogs are very useful animals for guarding flocks, and they have a keen sent for the pishacas, which they catch and kill with a single bite.
There is a very curious little bird in the Puna, about the size of a starling. Its plumage is exceedingly pretty, being on the back brown, striped with black; on the throat grey, with two dark stripes, and on the breast white. This bird has the remarkable peculiarity of making a monotonous sound at the close of every hour, during the night. The Indians call it the Ingahuallpa, or Cock of the Inga, (Thinocorus Ingæ, Tsch.), and they associate many superstitious notions with its regular hourly cry. The Puna morasses and lagunas are animated by numerous feathered inhabitants. Among them is the huachua (Chloephaga melanoptera, Eyt.), a species of goose. The plumage of the body
[begin surface 627]is dazzlingly white, the wings green, shading into brilliant violet, and the feet and beak of a bright red. The Licli (Charadrius resplendens, Tsch.) is a plover, whose plumage in color is like that of the huachua, but with a sort of metallic brightness. There are two species of ibis which belong to the Puna, though they are occasionally seen in some of the lower valleys. One is the Bandurria (Theristocus melanopis, Wagl.), and the other is the Yanahuico (Ibis Ordi, Bonap.). On the lagunas swim large flocks of Quiullas (Larus serranus, Tsch.), white mews, with black heads and red beaks, and the gigantic water-hen (Fulica gigantea, Soul.). The plumage of the latter is dark-grey, and at the root of the red beak there is a large yellow botch, in the form of a bean, whence the Indians give this bird the name of Anash sinqui, or bean nose. Among the few amphibia found in these regions one is particularly remarkable. It is a small kind of toad (Leiuperus viridis, Tsch.), and inhabits the boundaries of the perpetual snow.
The grasses of the Puna are used as fodder, and in many of the sheltered valleys there are farms (Haciendas de Ganado), where large herds of cattle are reared. The owners of some of these farms possess several thousand sheep, and from four to five hundred cows. During the rainy season the cattle are driven into the Altos. They graze in those high regions, often at the altitude of 15,000 feet above the sea. When the frost sets in they are brought down to the marshy valleys, and they suffer much from insufficiency of pasture. From the wool of the sheep a coarse kind of cloth, called Bayeta, is made in the Sierra. Some of this wool is exported, and is much prized in Europe. The old black cattle and sheep are slaughtered, and their flesh, when dried, is the principal food of the inhabitants of the Puna, particularly of the mining population. The dried beef is called Charqui, and the mutton is called Chalona. The bulls graze in the remote Altos, and most of them are reserved for the bull fights in the Sierra villages. As they seldom see a human being they become exceedingly wild; so much so that the herdsmen are often afraid to approach them. In the daytime they roam about marshy places, and at nightfall they retire for shelter beneath some overhanging rock. These animals render travelling
[begin surface 628]in many parts of the Puna extremely dangerous, for they often attack people so suddenly as to afford no time for defence. It is true they usually announce their approach by a deep bellow; but the open plain seldom presents any opportunity for escape. On several occasions a well-aimed shot alone saved me from the attack of one of these ferocious bulls.
The walls of the haciendas are of rough unhewn stone. They are divided into large square rooms, always damp, cold, and uninhabitable. Beneath the straw roofs there usually hang long rows of the stuffed skins of foxes; for every Indian who kills an old fox receives, by way of reward, a sheep, and for a young one a lamb. The Cholos are therefore zealous fox-hunters, and they may possibly succeed in altogether extirpating that animal, which in some districts is so numerous as to be a perfect scourge.
As the sheep, even in the dry season, find pasture more easily than the horned cattle, they are left during the whole year in the higher parts of the Puna, under the care of Indian shepherds. At night they are driven into corales, large square roofless buildings, and are guarded by dogs. The shepherds make a practice of every year burning the dry grass of the Puna, in order to improve the growth of the fodder. A Puna fire does not, however, present the imposing spectacle of the prairie fires, as described by travellers in North America, possibly because the Puna straw is shorter, and is always somewhat damp.
The dwellings of the shepherds are built in the same rude style which characterizes all the huts in the Puna, and they impress the European traveller with a very unfavorable notion of the intelligence of the people. The architecture of these huts consists in laying down some large stones, in a circle of about eight or ten feet in diameter, by way of a foundation. These stones are covered with earth or turf, and then with successive layers of stones and earth, until the wall attains the height of about four feet : at the point most sheltered from the wind, an opening of a foot and a half or two feet high serves as a door. On this low circular wall rests the roof, which is formed in the following manner. Six or eight magay * poles are fastened together,
* The Magay is the stem of the American Agave. It has a sort of spungy [begin surface 629]so as to form a point at the top. Over these poles thin laths are laid horizontally, and fastened with straw-bands, and the whole conical-formed frame-work is overlaid with a covering of Puna straw. As a security against the wind, two thick straw-bands are crossed over the point of the roof, and at their ends, which hang down to the ground, heavy stones are fastened. The whole fabric is then completed. The hut at its central point is about eight feet high; but at the sides, no more than three and a half or four feet. The entrance is so low, that one is obliged to creep in almost bent double; and before the aperture hangs a cow-hide, by way of a door.
Internally these huts present miserable pictures of poverty and uncleanliness. Two stones serve as a stove, containing a scanty fire fed by dry dung (buñegas), and turf (champo). An earthen pot for cooking soup, another for roasting maize, two or three gourd-shells for plates, and a porongo for containing water, make up the catalogue of the goods and chattels in a Puna hut. On dirty sheep-skins spread on the ground, sit the Indian and his wife, listlessly munching their coca; whilst the naked children roll about paddling in pools of water formed by continual drippings from the roof. The other inhabitants of the hut are usually three or four hungry dogs, some lambs, and swarms of guinea-pigs.
From all this it will readily be imagined that a Puna hut is no very agreeable or inviting retreat. Yet, when worn out by the dangers and fatigues of a long day's journey, and exposed to the fury of a mountain storm, the weary traveller, heedless of suffocating clouds of smoke and mephitic odors, gladly creeps into the rude dwelling. Taking up his resting-place on the damp floor, with his saddle-cloth for a pillow, he is thankful to find himself once again in a human habitation, even though its occupants be not many degrees elevated above the brute creation.
In the Puna there are many remains of the great high road of the Incas, which led from Cuzco to Quito, stretching through the
sap; but it is covered externally with a strong tough bast. The Magay supplies the inhabitants of Upper Peru with an excellent kind of light and strong building wood. 11* [begin surface 630]whole extent of Peru. It was the grandest work that America possessed before European civilisation found its way to that quarter of the world. Even those who are unacquainted with the wise dominion of the ancient Peruvian sovereigns, their comprehensive laws, and the high civilisation they diffused over the whole country, must by this gigantic work be impressed with the highest idea of the cultivation of the age; for well-constructed roads may always be regarded as proofs of a nation's advancement. There is not in Peru at the present time any modern road in the most remote degree comparable to the Incas' highway. The best preserved fragments which came under my observation were in the Altos, between Jauja and Tarma. Judging from these portions, it would appear that the road must have been from twenty-five to thirty feet broad, and that it was paved with large flat stones. At intervals of about twelve paces distant one from another there is a row of smaller stones, laid horizontally and a little elevated, so that the road ascended, as it were, by a succession of terraces. It was edged on each side by a low wall of small stones.
Other remains of ancient Peru, frequently met with in these parts, are small buildings, formerly used as stations for the messengers who promulgated the commands of the Incas through all parts of the country. Some of these buildings are still in a tolerably good state of preservation. They were always erected on little hillocks, and at such distances apart, that from each station the nearest one on either side was discernible. When a messenger was despatched from a station a signal was hoisted, and a messenger from the next successive station met him half-way, and received from him the despatch, which was in this manner forwarded from one station to another till it reached its destination. A constant communication was thus kept up between the capital and the most distant parts of the country. A proof of the extraordinary rapidity with which these communications were carried on is the fact, recorded on unquestionable authority, that the royal table in Cuzco was served with fresh fish, caught in the sea near the Temple of the Sun in Lurin, a distance of more than 200 leagues from Cuzco.
The messenger stations have by some travellers been confounded
[begin surface 631]with the forts, of which remains are met with along the great Inca road. The forts were buildings destined for totally different purposes. They were magazines for grain, and were built by the Incas to secure to their armies in these barren regions the requisite supplies of food. Vestiges of these forts are frequently seen in the Altos of Southern and Central Peru. They are broad round towers, usually built against a rocky declivity, and with numerous long apertures for the admission of air.
Even the broad level heights in which no trace of human habitations is discoverable, have been excavated by the mercenary Peruvian mestizos and creoles in search of hidden treasures. Their faith in the existence of concealed riches is founded on the following tradition. When the last reigning Inca, Atabiliba or Atahuallpa, was made prisoner by Don Francisco Pizarro, in Caxamarca, he proposed to ransom himself from the Spanish commander. The price he offered for his liberty was to fill with gold the cell in which he was confined, to the height of a certain line on the wall, which Pizarro marked with his sword. The cell, it may be mentioned, was twenty-two feet long and seventeen broad. A quantity of gold which the Inca ordered to be collected in Caxamarca and its vicinity, when piled up on the floor of the cell, did not reach above halfway to the given mark. The Inca then despatched messengers to Cuzco to obtain from the royal treasury the gold required to make up the deficiency; and accordingly eleven thousand llamas were despatched from Cuzco to Caxamarca, each laden with one hundred pounds of gold. But ere the treasure reached its destination, Atahuallpa was hanged by the advice of Don Diego de Almangra and the Dominican monk Vicente de Valverde. The terror-stirring news flew like wildfire through the land, and speedily reached the convoy of Indians, who were driving their richly-laden llamas over the level heights into Central Peru. On the spot where the intelligence of Atahuallpa's death was communicated to them, the dismayed Indians concealed the treasure, and then dispersed.
Whether the number of the llamas was really so considerable as it is stated to have been, may fairly be doubted; but that a vast quantity of gold was on its way to Caxamarca, and was concealed,
[begin surface 632]is a well-authenticated fact. That the Indians should never have made any attempt to recover this treasure is quite consistent with their character. It is not improbable that even now some particular individuals among them may know the place of concealment; but a certain feeling of awe transmitted through several centuries from father to son, has, in their minds, associated the hidden treasure with the blood of their last king, and this feeling doubtless prompts them to keep the secret inviolate.
From traditionary accounts, which bear the appearance of probability, it would appear that the gold was buried somewhere in the Altos of Mito, near the valley of Jauja. Searches have frequently been made in that vicinity, but no clue to the hiding-place has yet been discovered.
The semi-monthly steamers from the Isthmus bring you perchance an occasional line from this distant coast, informing you of the opening of the Chilian Congress, or of the quiescence of Peru, but I imagin few are aware of the true extent and importance of our commercial and political relations with our sister republics of the southern continent. We are accustomed to speak of Chili and Peru as distant and disregarded nations, whose politics scarcely interest us, and whose commerce is too limited to attract the attention of our merchants, and it will surprise many to learn that the commercial movements of this republic amount to some $70,000,000 per annum.
Chili, a republic of some one and a half millions of inhabitants, is making gigantic strides in the path of progress, and her railroads, telegraphs, municipal improvements and public works are worthy an older and wealthier nation. Some forty miles of the railroad between the port of Valparaiso and the Capital, Santiago, are in profitable operation, and the humanizing and progressive influence of the magnetic wire and the rail, is daily more evident in the history of the country.
Valparaiso, its commercial capital and chief port, a city of some eighty thousand souls, is situated upon the borders of a semi circular bay of two and a half miles in diameter, presenting to the approaching visitor one of the most striking panoramic views of the American coast. The chain of hills, forming its background, rise in graceful curves, broken here and there by huge quebradas, cleaving them to their very centres. Between the bases of these almost perpendicular rocks and the sea, at the west end of the city lies a narrow belt of ground, every foot of which has been economized for building purposes, the very sidewalks being taxed to add to the scanty territory. Hills, quebrada and plain are covered thickly with dwellings, dotting the landscape with a variety of effect at once novel and picturesque. Here, upon the margin of the sea, are the Custom House, with its eight blocks of massive public stores, the Post-Office, the "Palace" or Intendencia, the Telegraph Office, the Exchange, and the wholesale and importing houses, substantial, well-built edifices, that would do honor even to Wall-street. This is "par excellence" the "Port." Turning eastward, threading the crowded and narrow street that follows the curve of the Bay, and passing the Cueva de Chivato or Cape Horn, where the primitive has thrust man and his constructiveness aside, and planted its foot almost within the surf, we come to the Almendral, a broad, triangular plain of sand, a few years since the ocean's bed, whereon now rest a thousand houses, almost exclusively private dwellings, with here and there a church or monastery, lifting its spire or belfry above general uniformity of corrugated roof of tile. This portion of Valparaiso, which some sixty years ago was sold for two thousand dollars, could not now be purchased for millions. The streets are well paved, gas lighted, and a numerous and efficient police force of mounted and foot-soldiers renders it one of the safest and pleasantest cities of this part of the world.
The press of Valparaiso is most worthily represented by the Mercurio and the Diario, the former the opposition sheet; the latter semi-official, and although edited with ability, somewhat non committal and wanting in independence. The Mercurio, edited by Señor NADAL, is a frank, independent and liberal paper, opposed to the centralizing tendencies o the Government—to the union of Church and State—to the growing influence of the Jesuits, and to all that may retard for a single day the forward movement of Chili among nations. At once feared and respected by the Government, which, to speak truly, is less Republican in nature than in name, this one paper has done more for the political progress of Chili in the three years of its present editorship than her legislators in ten. Nor has this been accomplished without
[begin surface 634]toil and prejudice. Prosecution, fine and imprisonment have more than once been the reward of bold opinion, too freely uttered for the refined ear of power; but magna est veritas, and the Mercurio of Valparaiso may be said to have conquered the proud position of the first paper in South America. I regret, however, to remark in its columns occasional letters from New-York, over the signature of P. P. Ortiz, giving one sided and unjust, not to say injurious impressions of our national character and manners. The evident ignorance of the writer is his best apology, yet he at times permits his pen most unwarrantable license. His last letter, published in the Mercurio of June 12, treating of the lately appointed Minister to Chili, Ex-Governor BIGLER, of California, is guilty of the following language: * * * "What may we say of the tigers and wolves charged with missions to South America—of the Bailies and the Peytons? According to reliable authority, Hon. Mr. BIGLER, who is about to replace Mr. STARKWEATHER at Santiago, (who has perhaps been an honorable exception,) is not precisely one of those persons who is called, in American parlance, a political rowdy, one who makes his fortune at the public hustings, not so much by eloquence and character, as by strength of lung and muscle; but his antecedents, if not dishonorable, at least show him to be a man of little culture or social standing." This gratuitous slander upon a very worthy and amiable gentleman, printed and indorsed by so high authority, but a few weeks prior to his arrival at his post, is calculated to produce a most unfavorable impression regarding our representative.
The inefficient mail service of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company cries out to our Government for relief. The British mail steamers between Panama and Valparaiso, bringing the English mails with unfailing regularity, make the connection with the American (California) line from New York so irregularly that it is a common occurrence for the semi-monthly steamer to arrive without a solitary letter or paper from the United States; while the English merchants receive their correspondence punctually the 8th and 23d of each month. To the traveler or the man of leisure this is sufficiently annoying, to the man of business it is an incalculable disadvantage. The evil is too self-evident to need extended comment. It has always received the earnest attention of the Home Government, and we little band of Americans are awaiting with indescribable eagerness for the establishment of the contemplated American Line. Lest I be accused of exaggeration I will mention that since the middle of May we have received but one American mail in place of three due. Let me illustrate the effects of this uncertainty. In advance of the Government statistics I have been favored with the following table of exports for 1856, which I have reduced to dollars for more facile comprehension, using Custom House valuation :
A table listing the monetary value of coin, silver bars, crude silver, silver mixed with copper, copper bars, impure copper, and copper ore exported from Chili to England, France, Germany, and the United States.From whence it will be seen that while England, France and Germany received, thanks to a reliable and punctual steam communication, $3,300,000 in precious metals alone from Chili, not one dollar of coin nor one bar of silver reached the United States, almost the only exports to which being in copper and its ores, which were taken to the amount of some 12,000 tons, rather than return home in ballast. Besides copper, were sent to the United States 1,876,600 pounds of wool, valued at $206,426, and 1,544 packages
[begin surface 636]of rags valued at $3,088, so that our entire receipts from Chili in 1856 amounted to $2,840,194, less than one-fifth of her exports, more than half the balance going to swell the tide of British commerce. What argument more powerful is needed to prove the necessity of a regular, swift and reliable line of American steamers upon this coast. Our geographical position gives us the right, and our eagerness for trade the disposition, for more closely knit commercial ties with our sister Republics of the Western Coast of South America. An energetic opposition to the British monopoly is alone wanting, and with the new mail line once established, not only would our steamers divert the direct trade in precious metals to the United States, but by timing their departure from New York with the arrival of the Collins Line, your City would enjoy the indirect advantage of being the entrépôt of our commerce with the old world, whose very correspondence would soon flow into the swiftest channel of communication.
On the evening of the 24th inst. a severe fire occurred in the Port, destroying the entire row of warehouses known as the Cifuentes block, and situated between Cochrane-street and the sea. The entire Fire Department of Valparaiso, consisting of six companies, including one Hook and Ladder company, were promptly upon the ground, and after many hours of unremitting exertion, succeeded in mastering the flames and saving the surrounding buildings. Had the day not been absolutely without wind, the fire being in the heart of thecommercial portion of the city, the loss would have been fearful. The foreign men-of-war in port and the national steam-frigate, Esmeralda, sent each a launch with fire engine and crew, which, from the water side, rendered efficient service. The total loss amounts to some $300,000 about one-half of which is insured in London and Liverpool.
On the 11th inst., the Senate of Chili, to whom be all honor for the act, passed, unanimously, a bill, affording entire amnesty for all political offences. The announcement was hailed with enthusiasm by the liberal party throughout the nation, and the friends of the banished and the incarcerated rejoiced in the fond hope of promised freedom of thought and expression; but upon its reaching the House, on the 20th, a fierce debate ensued between the Ministerial and Liberal members, resulting in the defeat of the bill by a vote of 30 to 16, the four Cabinet Members present being members of the House and voting against the measure.
SECOND DAY.
Tempora mutantur. The weather has changed to-day; we have all "seen better days," as CHARLES LAMB had. The rain comes down in torrents, but there is no postponement on account of the weather, and at 10 o'clock the meeting is opened by the Vice-President. The first business was the election of 56 new members proposed by the Standing Committee, which was done at a blow. The Chairman then gave notice that the address of the retiring President, Professor HALL, would be given this evening at Concert Hall, where the soiree of the Natural History Society is also to be. A further notice was given that twenty minutes had been assigned to Dr. HARE at the beginning of the next general meeting, to enable him to present his views in relation to the curves of which he spoke yesterday, which proved to have some connection with the laws of traveling whirlwinds.
The Association then adopted the recommendation of the Standing Committee that the sections should meet from 10 A.M. to 2 P.M., and that there should be a general meeting of the Association at 4 P.M.
The Chairman suggested to the reporters the propriety of submitting their reports of papers on scientific subjects to some member of the Association for revision, but as he did not announce who of them would be always ready to look over reports, his suggestion may not be universally acted upon.
The general meeting then adjourned to to-morrow afternoon.
Mr. Ex-President FILLMORE was present at the
distinguished for the profusion and richness of their gold and silver ornaments, vessels, statues, &c., and the religious ceremonies are solemnized with great splendor. Lima has an active commerce and extensive manufactures. Its port, Callao, the strongest fortress and principal seaport of Peru, is connected with Lima by a magnificent road. Arequipa, in the southern part of Peru, is a flourishing city. Cuzco is the second city of Peru, and was formerly the capital of the empire of the incas, or native Peruvian princes. It was regarded by the natives as a sacred city; and the celebrated temple of the sun, with its gorgeous decorations of gold and silver, was one of the richest in the world. Two immense causeways, 1500 miles in length, led from this city to Quito, and some remains of them still exist. Puno, Chiquito, Truxillo, Caxamarca, Huanuco, and Tarma, are considerable towns.
13. History.—In our general view of South America, we have noticed the Indian Empire of Peru. Balboa heard of this country, and its immense wealth, and was about to attempt its conquest, when he was beheaded for conspiracy. Pizarro, a rough, illiterate man, who had been brought up as a swineherd in Spain, undertook this expedition in 1531. He sailed with a small body of men, landed upon the coast, seized the inca, or emperor, named Atahualpa, and put him to death. Cuzco, the capital, soon fell into his hands, and after a time the whole country submitted. Thus was conquered the most populous and civilized empire in America. The wealth acquired by the Spaniards was immense. Gold and silver were so abundant among the Peruvians that pots and pans were made of them. The whole population of Peru at the time of its conquest was probably ten or twelve millions. The inca was believed to be descended from Manco Capac and his wife Mama Oella, two divine beings, who appeared among the people in the fourteenth century, and taught them the arts of civilization. The people worshiped the sun, and at Cuzco there was an immense temple devoted to their religious rites. The Peruvians had fine manufactures in gold and silver, wove cloths, and tilled the land with care, practicing irrigation with skill and success. They were a gentle people, and were completely crushed by their remorseless conquerors. Most of the large cities of modern Peru were founded by Pizarro, including Lima, built in 1534. This was selected as the capital, and here Pizarro was soon after assassinated. In 1780 the Indians revolted, under Tupac Amaru, a descendant of the ancient incas; but after a sanguinary struggle they were again subjugated. Peru remained quiet after other parts of Spanish America had raised the standard of independence. In 1820 a Chilian army, under San Martin, entered the country, and captured Lima. Peru was declared independent on the 28th of July, 1821. But the royalists afterward gained ground, and Bolivar entered Peru with a Colombian army in 1822. Through his exertions, the cause of independence regained the ascendency, and the deliverance of Peru from the Spanish dominion was finally accomplished by the victory of Ayacucho, in December, 1824. Since this period, the government of Peru has gone through many changes. The Republic of Bolivia has been formed out of its territory, and its political state has been for many years unsettled. Peru has at present a republican constitution, but the actual government seems to be in the hands of ambitious leaders and parties constantly struggling for power.
1. Characteristics.—Bolivia, formerly a part of Peru, has rich silver mines, and the loftiest mountains in America.
2. Mountains.—The great central chain of the Andes, having some volcanic peaks, traverses the southwestern part of Bolivia, and is continued into Peru. A chain, with a semicircular sweep, passes to the east and northeast of Lake Titicaca, containing the loftiest summits of the American continent—Sorato, 25,400 feet, and Illimani, 24,250 feet in hight—and forms the elevated table-land upon which Lake Titicaca lies.
3. Valleys.—The Valley of Titicaca is fertile, especially near the lake. The valleys of Cochabamba, and of the head streams of the Madeira, have also a fine soil. The extensive plains of Moxos and Chiquitos are covered with dense forests.
4. Desert.—The Desert of Atacama, already mentioned, extends along the whole Pacific coast of Bolivia. It is a desolate, sandy waste, where rain never falls, and served as a burial-ground of the ancient Peruvians, whose bodies are still dug up from the soil. To the west of Potosi is also a broad desert plain, and another to the southeast.
5. Rivers.—The head-waters of two great rivers of South America, the Amazon and the Plata, descend from the Bolivian table-land. The only considerable river which has its whole course in Bolivia is the Desaguadero, or outlet of Lake Titicaca, which takes a southerly course, and loses itself in the salt plains of Potosi.
6. Lakes.—Titicaca Lake, described under Peru, is partly in Bolivia.
7. Coast.—Bolivia extends about 120 miles along the Pacific, having the single port of Cobija.
8. Climate, Soil, &c.—The climate, soil, vegetable and animal productions, resemble those of Peru; but as the Bolivian table-lands, occupying a large part of the surface of the state, are more elevated than the Peruvian, the cold is rather greater. The northeastern part of the country forms a portion of the great plain of the Amazon, and has, therefore, a much higher temperature.
9. Minerals.—The celebrated silver mines of Potosi are in a mountain near the city of that name. The summit
LESSON LXXXIII. 1. Characteristics of Bolivia? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Desert? 5. Rivers? 6. Lakes? [begin surface 640]of this rises to an elevation of 16,300 feet, and the highest mine is upward of 15,000 feet above the level of the sea. From the first discovery of these mines, in 1545, until 1803, they yielded about one thousand million dollars' worth of silver; and since the latter period, though imperfectly and unskillfully worked, have continued to produce about three millions annually.
10. Divisions.—Bolivia is divided into departments, as follows:
A table listing the area in square miles, chief cities, and populations of the departments of Bolivia, including La Paz de Ayacucho, Potosi, Oruro, Chuquisaca, Cochabamba, Beni, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Tarija, and Cobija.11. Industry.—Agriculture is the chief pursuit. Mining is extensively carried on. There are some manufactures of cotton, glass, and silver. Some of the Indian tribes make fine cloths, furs, parasols, &c. The exports consist of precious metals, wool, woolen goods, hats, drugs, skins, soap, tobacco, &c.
12. Inhabitants.—The population has much the same character with that of the other Spanish-American states. The number of whites is small, the native Indians constituting upward of one-half of the whole mass of inhabitants. The religion is Roman Catholic. Ignorance and indolence prevail among the masses. The Moxos Indians are agricultural; the Chiquitos are nomadic. The tribes on the Beni are wild and savage.
13. Towns.—The capital, Chuquisaca, or La Plata, is situated in a pleasant and fertile plain, at an elevation of 9500 feet. It is well built, and contains, besides other public edifices, numerous convents. The principal city of Bolivia is La Paz. Although it lies in a deep valley, it is elevated 12,400 feet above the sea. Near it rises the colossal summit of Illimani. Potosi was formerly a large and opulent city, with 150,000 inhabitants, but is now so much reduced, as not to contain more than 30,000. It lies in a barren district, at the remarkable elevation of 13,700 feet above the sea. It owed its former splendor wholly to the mineral wealth of its neighborhood. It contains a monument erected in honor of Bolivar. Cochabamba lies in a rich and well-cultivated region, which may be considered the granary of Bolivia. Santa Cruz is an ill-built town, in a vast plain. Oruro lies in the vicinity of rich silver mines. Cobija, or Lamar, is a little village in the desert of Atacama, on the Bolivian coast, and deserves notice as being the only seaport of the republic. It has some ship-building docks, a quay, barracks, &c.
14. History—The Bolivian territories, or, as they are commonly called, the provinces of Upper Peru, were detached from the Spanish viceroyalty of Peru, and annexed to that of the Plata, in 1778. In 1824, the Spanish authority was overthrown by the victory of Ayacucho, and in the succeeding year the people of Upper Peru determined to remain a separate state, under the name of Bolivia. This title was adopted in honor of Bolivar, who aided the people in achieving their independence, and drew up their constitution. By this code, the president is chosen for life, with the power of appointing his successor.
1. Characteristics.—This state consists of a long, narrow territory, extending 1200 miles along the Pacific Ocean.
2. Mountains.—The great chain of the Andes traverses the country from north to south, and presents a number of summits, the hight of which has been estimated at upward of 20,000 feet. The roads that lead across these mountains are impassable, except in summer, and the passage is even then difficult and hazardous. Among the Chilian Andes, there are said to be fourteen volcanoes in a state of constant eruption, and a still greater number that discharge smoke at intervals. Earthquakes are common.
3. Rivers.—The rivers are numerous, but small, and have generally a rapid current, as they descend from elevated regions into the Pacific, and have a short course. The Maule and Biobio are navigable for a short distance.
4. Shores.—The line of the coast is very even, extending north and south, and presenting several good harbors.
5. Islands.—The island of Chiloe, and the archipelago of Chonos, in the south, belong to the republic, which also claims the island of Juan Fernandez, at some distance from the coast, celebrated as the residence of Alexander Selkirk, whose adventures furnished the hint for the popular novel of Robinson Crusoe.
6. Climate, Productions, &c.—Chili lies in the temperate zone, and enjoys a fine climate. In the northern provinces it rarely rains, and snow is never seen in the maritime districts. Ice, however, is sometimes formed here. The soil is, in general, highly productive, particularly in the valleys of the Andes; and while the northern provinces yield various tropical productions, the southern produce the cereal grasses. This is the native country of the potato, several varieties of which are cultivated in great perfection. It is found wild on the hills and mountains, as well as in the lower country, and even in the Chiloe Isles. The animals are similar to those of Peru. The lama and guanaco abound in the plains. The chinchilla mouse, celebrated for its soft fur, is also common.
7. Minerals.—The metallic wealth of the country is great. It is rich in mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, tin, copper, and iron. Gold is abundant, and is obtained from mines and washings. The richest mines are in the part of the country now occupied by the Araucanians. Many of the richest silver mines are in the loftiest and coldest parts of the Andes, and have been abandoned in consequence of the difficulty and expense of working them.
8. Face of the Country.—Chili presents a plain, gradually rising in elevation as it recedes from the coast, and approaches the Andes. The country intercepted between the foot of the Andes and the Pacific Ocean is divided into two equal parts, the maritime and midland. The maritime part is intersected by three ridges of mountains, running parallel with the Andes. The midland part is generally level, of great fertility, and enjoying a delightful climate.
9. Industry.—Agriculture is the leading pursuit, all kinds of grain being cultivated. Melons, pumpkins, figs, grapes, pomegranates, oranges, peaches, apples, and olives are abundant. The commerce is considerable. Copper,
7. Coast? 8. Climate, soil, &c.? 9. Minerals? 10. Divisions? 11. Industry? 12. Inhabitants? 13. Towns? 14. History? How did Bolivia obtain its name? LESSON LXXXIV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Shores? 5. Islands? 6. Climate, productions, &c.? 7. Minerals? 8. Face of the country? 9. Industry? 10. Divisions? [begin surface 641]silver, beef, tallow, hides, and live-stock, are exported. Grain is shipped to California. The mining of copper and silver is extensive. Gold is not collected in large quantities.
10. Divisions.—Chili is divided into eight provinces, as follows:
Table listing the area in square miles of provinces of Chili, including Coquimbo, Aconcagua, Santiago, Colchagua, Maule, Concepcion, Valdivia, and Chiloe. The chief towns are listed as Coquimbo, Quillota, Santiago, San Fernando, Villa de Cauquenes, Concepcion, Valdivia, and San Carlos.11. Inhabitants.—The population consists of the descendants of the Spaniards, with numerous Indians. The former maintain the Spanish manners and customs to a considerable extent. Some of the landed proprietors have incomes from $25,000 to $5000 a year. The ancient gradations of rank are somewhat preserved; the guaso, or peasant, being less independent, and more depressed, than the guacho of some of the South American states.
12. Chief Towns.—Santiago, the capital, is pleasantly situated in an extensive plain at the foot of the Andes, on the river Mapocho. It is regularly laid out, and contains some splendid buildings. It has suffered much from earthquakes, particularly in 1822 and 1829. Valparaiso, a flourishing town, stands on the Pacific, and has a fine harbor. It is the principal commercial place in Chili. Coquimbo, which also stands on the coast, carries on an extensive commerce. It has repeatedly been injured by earthquakes. Concepcion on the Biobio, not far from its mouth, was almost completely destroyed by the Araucanians, in 1823, but has recovered, and is thriving. Valdivia is distinguished for its excellent harbor. Huasco and Curico are small towns, having rich mines in their vicinity. Near Copiapo and Quillota are valuable copper mines.
Ancient Araucanian Warrior.13. History.—Chili was peopled by a warlike race of Indians, less civilized than the Peruvians, but far more valiant and enterprising in war. The Spaniards, under Almagro, invaded this country in 1535; but such was the courageous resistance of the natives, that a long series of sanguinary wars ensued before the invaders could establish themselves permanently here. The leading tribe was that of the Araucanians, who made so valorous and obstinate a defence, that the Spaniards could never subdue them. The most celebrated character in their history is Caupolican. The colonial authority of Peru was at first extended over Chili; but in 1567, a separation was made, and Chili was placed under a captain-general, dependent solely on the king of Spain. The revolution began in Chili in 1810, and the country was for some years in a state of perpetual turbulence. In 1817, a revolutionary army from Buenos Ayres, under General San Martin, crossed the Andes, and invaded Chili. The royalist forces were defeated in the decisive battle of Maypa, on the 5th of April, 1818, and the victory established the independence of Chili.
14. Araucania.—This territory lies between the Biobio, on the north, and the Valdivia, on the south. It has been considered as a part of Chili, but the natives ever resisted the Spanish authority, and have maintained their independence to the present day. Chili claims a nominal sovereignty over the country, but the substantial independence of the people is secured by law. The Araucanians possessed various useful arts before the arrival of the Spaniards. They retain many of their ancient customs, and are an exceedingly interesting people. They are chiefly occupied in raising cattle, but have some manufactures. The country is divided into four districts, each having a governor. The form of government is a mixture of democracy and aristocracy.
1. Characteristics.—This vast territory, 900 miles long, comprises the southern point of South America, and is wholly occupied by uncivilized Indians.
2. Mountains, &c.—This country has been little explored. Its shores, on both sides, are much indented with bays and gulfs. The contiguous islands have been mentioned
11. Inhabitants? 12. Towns? 13. History? 14. Araucania? What of the Araucanians? LESSON LXXXV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Face of the country? 4. Inhabitants? 5. History? 22 [begin surface 642]under the head of South America. The Andes extend along the western coast, rising from three to four thousand feet, with many volcanoes.
3. Face of the Country.—East of the Andes, the country rises from the sea in a succession of terraces, spreading out into arid and sterile plains. Guanacos, pumas, and foxes are the chief quadrupeds. Among the birds are the condor and the rhea. The latter, a small species of ostrich, is hunted by the wild Indians with the lasso.
4. Inhabitants.—The only inhabitants of this dreary region are Indians, who are in a savage state, and remarkable for their large stature. The men are occupied in hunting and fishing. The women stay at home, building or repairing the wigwams, grinding paint, drying skins, and painting mantles. The Fuegians, to the south, are a smaller and inferior race. The women are in an abject state, being required to paddle the canoes, dive for shells, climb the cliffs for eggs, build the huts, and keep up the fires. They are sure of being beaten for any neglect.
5. History.—Patagonia can hardly be said to have a history. It was discovered by Magellan in 1518. The natives were described as being of a gigantic stature. Subsequent discoverers have ascertained that they are not a race of giants, as the old stories represent them; yet they are a people of uncommon hight. They are savages, but they possess a few of the useful arts, obtained by their intercourse with the Spaniards. Of government or political institutions they seem to know very little.
1. Characteristics.—This is an extensive state, distinguished for its immense plains, called pampas.
2. Mountains.—In the western provinces a chain of mountains traverses the country, in a direction nearly parallel to the Andes. Little is known of its elevation and course.
3. Face of the Country, Plains, &c.—The northwestern and northern provinces form portions, the latter of the great central table-land of South America, and the former of the Peruvian table-land. All the country to the south and east of these limits belongs to the vast plain of the Plata, which stretches nearly to the southern extremity of the continent, over an area of 1,600,000 square miles. The pampas, or great grassy plains of Buenos Ayres, form a part of this extensive level. They resemble the prairies of North America and the llanos of Venezuela, being like them destitute of wood, and stretching out with an unbroken, though undulating surface, for hundreds of miles. Several rivers and some lakes are found in them, but in general they are scantily watered. Immense herds of wild horses and cattle find good pasture in them, and the rhea, jaguar, deer, lamas , &c., are numerous. They are inhabited, or rather traversed, by the Indian tribes, and Spanish American hunters and shepherds.
4. Rivers.—The Plata, the principal river, 2500 miles long, has the largest volume of water of any river in the world, except the Amazon. It is formed by the union of the Parana and the Uruguay, at the distance of 175 miles from the ocean; at that point it is 30 miles, and at its mouth 100 miles broad. The Parana or main branch rises in Brazil, and has a course of upward of 2000 miles; it receives the waters of the Paraguay, another large river, which also rises in Brazil, and is about 1200 miles in length. The Pilcomayo and Vermejo, tributaries of the Paraguay, are likewise considerable rivers, and have their sources in Bolivia. The Colorado and Negro are the principal rivers to the south of the Plata. Rising in the Chilian Andes, they flow through desert and imperfectly known regions into the Atlantic.
5. Shores, &c.—This country has 400 miles of seacoast, but no remarkable bays.
6. Soil and Productions.—In the upland districts the productions of the temperate climate abound, while the lower regions furnish the cocoa, olive, orange, and sugarcane of tropical countries. The plains afford natural pastures for great numbers of domestic and wild animals. The mate, or Paraguay tea-plant, is a small tree, the leaves of which are used to prepare an infusion, like the Chinese tea with us. It is used by the inhabitants and exported in great quantities to the neighboring countries. A large proportion of the soil is productive, but there are some salt plains and sterile tracts.
7. Animals.—The native animals comprise the puma, jaguar, armadillo, biscacha, chinchilla, &c. The guanaco, lama , and vicuna abound near the Andes.
8. Minerals.—There are some rich mines of gold and silver in the mountainous districts of the western provinces. Salt and saltpeter are abundant. Sulphur, alum, mineral pitch, &c., are found near the Andes. Coal is plentiful in the southwest. Few mines are wrought.
9. Climate.—In the northern part of the country, the summers are long and hot, but ice is sometimes formed in winter. As we advance to the south, the cold increases, but is nowhere extreme. The climate is moist, and in the southern provinces the winds are violent, and thunder and lightning very severe. The westerly winds which sweep across the pampas, and are here called pamperos, blow with great fury.
10. Divisions.—The territories lying within the Argentine Republic, formerly composed a part of the Spanish viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, to which Bolivia, Paraguay, and Uruguay also belonged. In 1810, the intendancy of
LESSON LXXXVI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Face of the country? 4. Rivers? 5. Shores? 6. Soil and productions? What of mate, or Paraguay tea? 7. Animals? 8. Minerals? 9. Climate? 10. Divisions? 11. Chief Towns? DescribeThe South American explorations of the Water Witch, under the command of Captain PAGE, have scarcely received the attention their importance merits. In the report of the Expedition, recently made to the Secretary of the Navy, a mere sketch is given of the survey of the La Plata States and their principal rivers. We trust that the question will not be allowed to subside, and that Captain PAGE will lay before the public a more detailed account of his explorations than the one brought within the compass of an official report. We trust, too, that the Government, having advanced thus far in opening up a new field to civilization and commerce, will not withdraw its support from so great an enterprise, but will follow up the steps already taken, and secure for our country the honor of having accomplished one of the most important achievements of the day and the advantages to be derived from it.
Capt. PAGE's actual survey, in the States of the La Plata, embraced an extent of 3,600 miles of river, and 4,400 miles of land. The Paraguay, Parana, and Uruguay were severally ascended to points which vessels had never before reached, and the practicability of their navigation was fully demonstrated. The expedition up the Paraguay was attended with the most important results. By the course of the river, the Water Witch steamed a distance of 2,000 miles from the ocean, establishing the fact that a water communication existed between the rich Brazil[cut away] Grasso and [cut away]We have
[begin surface 644][cut away] Province of Matto [cut away] Atlantic. Nor was this all. [cut away] Capt. PAGE's positive opinion that several western tributaries of the Paraguay could, with small expense, be rendered navigable, and a natural outlet be thus given to the commerce of the Bolivian Republic.
Throughout the vast region of unpeopled territory included in Capt. PAGE's survey, the attractions and advantages held out to the settler are such as no other country in the known world possesses. Gold and precious minerals abound; but these are not the material upon which the emigrant now founds his hopes and fortunes. The glittering dust has decoyed too many to their destruction, and the ancient dream of an el dorado has vanished before the realities of actual experience. Though in the undiscovered mines of the La Plata there were tenfold the wealth that California or Australia has given to the world; yet, to the settler, their agricultural resources offer far more tempting prospects. A land of eternal Summer—a climate, tropical indeed, but breathing no pestilential or infectious disease—a soil well watered, and of unequaled richness;—these are Nature's blessings with which industry will reap her profits of a thousand fold. With the products of these countries we are still imperfectly acquainted; of the full extent of their resources we are profoundly ignorant. We only know that with a soil so fertile, so splendidly watered—with a climate so genial, so salubrious—the country is bound to rival the Indies in its wealth. The exports of Paraguay are still insignificant. They consist of the yerba, tobacco, hides wool, sugar, medicinal drugs and woods o rare value. But, with free navigation, the impetus recently given to trade has amply recompensed the Government for inaugurating a wiser policy than that of closing their rivers to the world's commerce. Some Governments of the La Plata have made the most liberal offers of land and agricultural implements to all those who are disposed to cultivate the soil. The fruits of such a policy are already apparent. Ships, now, are constantly leaving European ports with settlers for these States. Within a very few years, when labor has, in a measure, developed its now hidden resources, we shall have the whole of this vast country pouring out its millions at our feet. [cut away]
[begin surface 646]To the United States the honor belongs of having taken initiatory steps towards opening up this garden of the world to commerce and industrial enterprise. We trust that this honor, and the advantages which, by right of precedence, should be secured for our people, will not be thrown away;—that the important explorations of Captain PAGE will not be altogether lost sight of. They should be followed up promptly and with energy. The Governments of the La Plata States are disposed to be liberal. They know that in peopling their deserts and cultivating their soil lies the true secret of prosperity. They know that these benefits cannot be obtained unless they throw open their territories to foreign immigration, and their rivers to the free navigation of the world. They know that only by a more thickly settled country can stability be given to their Governments, and security to the individual enterprise—without which the wealth of the La Plata would be profitless either to the States themselves or to the world at large. With their eyes opened to these facts, we may well prophesy a brilliant future for such of the Spanish-American Republics as are willing to learn from the experience of other nations. The various people with whom Captain PAGE held communication were well disposed towards the United States, and hailed with joy the presence of a North American vessel in their waters. These are the countries with which our commercial relations should be close—these the people with whom the most friendly feelings should be cultivated. Until now, we have scarcely made an effort to obtain their commerce, or secure any of the advantages which we would be willing and able to reciprocate. Instead of extending the peaceful influences of commerce and civilization among our sister Republics, and, as the stronger power, creating a confidence among weaker neighbors, we have inspired them with such distrust that a generation or more must elapse ere WALKER and his desperadoes will cease to be regarded as types of American citizens.
The expedition of the Water Witch sufficiently proves that the closest commercial relations with the States of the La Plata may be established. [cut away]
[begin surface 648]Buenos Ayres broke out into an insurrection, and its example was followed by other intendancies of the viceroyalty. In 1817, they declared themselves independent, under the name of the United States of South America, which was afterward changed into that of the Argentine Republic or United Provinces of the Plata. This republic is divided as follows:—
Table listing the populations of the cities of Buenos Aires, including Buenos Aires, Santa Fe, Parana, Corrientes, San Ildefonso, Cordova, Santiago, Tucuman, Salta, Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, San Luis, and Mendoza. The states are listed as Buenos Aires, Santa Fe, Entre Rios, Corrientes, Missiones, Cordova, Santiago, Tucuman, Salta, Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, San Luis, and Mendoza.11. Chief Towns.—Buenos Ayres, capital of the state of the same name, is one of the principal cities of South America, and is not less distinguished for its literary than for its commercial activity. It is well built, with regular and well-paved streets, and contains many handsome public and private buildings. Although situated near the mouth of one of the largest rivers in the world, its harbor is so much obstructed by sand-banks, that large vessels only come up to Barragan. Corrientes, a small town, situated near the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, has great natural advantages for inland commerce. Cordova, formerly rendered important by its famous university, which is now sunk into insignificance, enjoys an active internal commerce, and carries on considerable manufactures of woolen and cotton. San Juan, in the state of the same name, produces large quantities of wine and brandy. Mendoza, on the eastern declivity of the Andes, has also an active trade in wine and fruits. Upsallata, a little town in the state of Mendoza, is celebrated for its rich silver-mine. Salta, Tucuman, and Santa Fé are the other principal towns.
12. Industry.—Agriculture is the chief pursuit; but it is very unskillfully conducted. Cotton, tobacco, rice, sugar-cane, indigo, and the various grains, with cochineal, cocoa, cinchona bark, Paraguay tea, and various fruits, are produced. Wine and brandy are made from grapes. Morocco leather and turned wares are manufactured at Cordova. The Indians of the Chaco make yarn, ropes, fishing-nets, saddle-cloths, baskets, and other fabrics, from the fibres of the aloe, which they dye with great skill. The foreign commerce centers entirely in the city of Buenos Ayres.
13. Inhabitants.—The native whites of this country are favorably distinguished among those of the other Spanish colonies for character and cultivation. The blacks are few. The Creole shepherds of the great plains, called Guachos, lead a life of wild independence, passing most of their time on horseback, eating nothing but jerked beef and drinking water; they are rude, but hospitable and generous. Armed with his lasso or leather strap, which he throws at a great distance with unerring aim, the Guacho gallops out into the open plain, hurls it at the wild horse, bull, or rhea, lodging it round the neck of the animal, which by a sudden jerk he throws to the ground, and then secures his prey. The Indians are numerous, and some of the tribes of the south are fierce and warlike. They have learned the use of the horse, and they wander in search of game and pasturage, through the great expanse of the pampas, where they are engaged in constant hostilities with the Guachos.
14. History.—The great stream called Rio de la Plata, or River Plate, was discovered by the Spaniards in 1515. There they first saw the silver of the new world, on which account they gave the river the name it has ever since borne. The city of Buenos Ayres was founded in 1535. The Spanish settlers intermarried with the Indians, which first produced that mixed race called Mestizoes, now so common in South America. This colony was first attached to the government of Peru. The Jesuits established their missions here in the seventeenth century, and met with great success in converting the natives to Catholicism. In 1778, Buenos Ayres was separated from Peru, and erected into a viceroyalty. In 1806, when Spain was at war with Great Britain, the British sent an expedition which captured the city of Buenos Ayres; but they were expelled after holding it fifteen days. In 1810, the inhabitants rose in insurrection against the Spanish authorities, and, after various fluctuations of fortune, an independent government was established. It is now known by the name of the Argentine Republic. Its Spanish name is Buenos Ayres. Its former name of United Provinces is, however, preserved in popular use. The government has never been settled; from 1835 to 1852 it was under the dictatorship of Rosas; but in that year the Liberals, under General Urquiza, drove him from power and inducted a more popular government.
1. Characteristics.—This is a small state, formerly belonging to Buenos Ayres, and called the Banda Oriental.
2. Face of the Country.—Along the coast, the surface is level, and bare of wood. In the center, it becomes mountainous, with ravines and hights clothed with forests, and abounding with wild animals. A large portion of the surrounding interior is undulating.
3. Rivers.—The territory is watered by numerous tributaries of the Uruguay. The Rio Negro is the principal, traversing the country from east to west.
4. Climate, Products, &c.—The climate is generally damp, but temperate and healthy. In the winter, heavy rains and cold winds are prevalent; but in the lowlands, frost is said to be unknown. Natural pastures are very extensive and luxuriant. Cattle and horses form the principal wealth of the people; and their products, consisting of hides, skins, hair, jerked beef, and tallow, are the chief exports. Wheat, maize, beans, and melons are produced, and the country is adapted for the culture of most fruits of temperate climates; but at present, no more agricultural produce is raised than is required for home consumption.
5. Minerals.—Granite and limestone rocks prevail in the mountainous region; jasper and chalcedony are met with; but few if any mines are wrought.
6. Inhabitants.—The population is small for the extent of territory. By far the larger part are Indians—some of them civilized, and others in a wild state.
7. Chief Towns.—There are three principal towns—La Colonia, Maldonado, and Monte Video. The last is the capital, has a good port, and, though injured by the
Buenos Ayres? 12. Industry? 13. Inhabitants? Describe the Guachos? 14. History? LESSON LXXXVII. 1. Characteristics of Uruguay? 2. Face of the country? 3. Rivers? 4. Climate, products, &c.? [begin surface 650]wars, bids fair to be a great city. It is well fortified, and has a citadel. Its commerce is already considerable. Besides these, there are a few smaller towns, and hamlets, but none of considerable extent.
8. History.—This country was formerly known by the name of the Banda Oriental, or Eastern Shore, in relation to its position on the eastern bank of the River La Plata. It was first settled by the Spaniards from Buenos Ayres, and remained under the same government with that province till the revolution, when the people of Banda Oriental declared themselves independent. Both Buenos Ayres and Brazil laid claim to the country, in consequence of which it has been harassed with wars down to the present day. The Brazilians relinquished their claim in 1827, but the government of Buenos Ayres continues its hostilities. Uruguay, however, maintains its independence.
1. Characteristics.—This is a small state, lying between the rivers Parana and Paraguay.
2. Mountains.—The Sierra Amambahy crosses the territory near its center.
3. Rivers, Lakes, &c.—From the mountain chain, numerous small streams flow east into the Parana, and west into the Paraguay. Ypao is the only considerable lake.
4. Climate, Products, &c.—The climate is moist, but temperate; extensive marshes abound, and in the rainy season, the rivers inundate a great extent of country. The soil is very fertile. The territory is well wooded, and diversified with hills and vales. The Yerba maté, or Paraguay tea, is a natural evergreen tree, resembling the orange-tree, the leaf of which is largely used in the same manner as Chinese tea.
5. Industry, &c.—Agriculture is the chief employment. Indian corn, rice, sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, and maté, are the chief products. The latter grows wild in the forest, and is obtained in large quantities amid the dense thickets. The cultivated lands are hedged with the prickly pear. On some of the farms many thousands of cattle and horses are bred. Manufactures of cotton, wool, &c., are considerable. Rich iron mines are wrought, and commerce is reviving from the discourageous policy of the dictator, Francia, who wished to make the people live within themselves.
6. Inhabitants.—The greater part of these are Indians, most of whom are partially civilized. Slavery is abolished, as well as in other South American states. The whites of Spanish descent are the ruling people. There are some negroes and mixed races.
7. Chief Towns.—The principal towns are Villa Rica, Neembucu, and Assumption, or Asunçion. The latter, the capital, is badly built, and unpaved. The public structures are mean. Its trade in hides, tobacco, timber, Paraguay tea, and wax, is considerable.
8. History.—This country was settled by the Spaniards soon after their discovery of the Rio de la Plata. The city of Asunçion was founded in 1535. The Jesuits founded missionary establishments here in the sixteenth century, for the purpose of civilizing the Indians, who were numerous in this and the surrounding regions. They succeeded so far as to bring large numbers into a state of partial civilization. They had many small towns regularly built; the churches were splendid and highly decorated. There were painters, sculptors, silversmiths, carpenters, weavers, watchmakers, &c. Music was cultivated with success. The people were trained in the Catholic religion, and remained under the authority of the priests. In 1768, the order of Jesuits was suppressed by the king of Spain, and the Indians, having been taught no real independence of mind, immediately relapsed into their former habits. Paraguay continued to be a province of Spain, but revolted shortly after the first revolutionary proceedings in Buenos Ayres. After various futile attempts to establish republican forms of government, the inhabitants conferred the supreme authority upon Doctor Francia, with the title of Dictator. This extraordinary man ruled over Paraguay with despotic sway from 1814 to 1842, when he died at about eighty years of age. Since his death, the country has been governed by a President elected for ten years, and a Congress elected by general suffrage for five years.
1. Characteristics.—Brazil is an extensive empire, occupying one-third part of South America.
2. Mountains.—This vast country is traversed by several distinct chains of mountains, chiefly in the eastern and
5. Minerals? 6. Inhabitants? 7. Chief towns? 8. History?
LESSON LXXXVIII. 1. Characteristics of Paraguay? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers, lakes, &c.? 4. Climate, products, &c.? 5. Industry? 6. Inhabitants? 7. Chief towns? 8. History?
LESSON LXXXIX. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains?
[begin surface 651]As the plan of a direct steam communication between the United States and Brazil was again suggested in the recent session of Congress at Washington, we avail ourselves of the opportunity for discussing certain points connected with the subject.
In the natural state of things, considering only the general progress of both countries, a line of American steamers is a simple question of time. If it can be demonstrated that the actual commerce, combined with what it will be in a very near future, fully justifies the establishing of a steamboat line, it will be easy to agree upon whatever regards points of secondary importance, or the practical way in which that line may be organized. Let us briefly examine this important national subject, starting from two points, viz., founding our observations upon facts and the experience furnished by the general history of commerce, and, above all, taking into account our relations with the United States.
The commercial men of the United States are aware that the monthly steamship line between England and Brazil is a successful and lucrative business, and that from the time of its being established the commerce between the two nations has increased with such a rapidity that this fact cannot be attributed to any other influence than to the impulse given to it by steam navigation. But not only have the commerce and personal relations between Brazil and England and between Brazil and Europe considerably increased, but they are still daily increasing. The movement of passengers is so great that the cabins of the steamers are taken a long time in advance, in spite of the comparatively high prices for passage, which probably will be maintained as long as that line has no competition to encounter.
Although commerce between the United States and Brazil is carried on on a great scale, and increases every year, the movement of passengers between the two countries is very limited, consisting almost exclusively of persons who are in immediate relation with the commercial marine.
ANOMALIES OF THE PRESENT TRADE.There have been few examples in the world of a commerce on so large a scale and of so considerable value having such a development between two civilized nations with so little personal relations between them and so small an acquaintance of each other. Very few Brazilians have been to the United States, either on account of business or for recreation, and during late years the small number of citizens of the United States who have visited Brazil went first over to Europe in order to be sure of a passage in a steamer, in preference to a voyage in a sailing ship. The expense for such a circuitous passage in a steamer is considerably greater than in a sailing ship; but the general taste is for steamers, without even any economy of time. For a first class passage ticket between New York and Rio, via England, the cost is at least $600, whilst the direct passage on board a sailing ship would not be over $200 to $250. As regards time, the steamers are twelve days in going from New York to England and twenty-eight days from England to Rio—in the whole, forty days. This calculation, taking into account all contingencies, is, as an average calculation, rather too low than too high. As to sailing ships, the average time of their passage from New York to Rio is about forty days, whilst from Rio to New York it does not exceed thirty-five days. Thus, in general, there is in the preference given to steamers no advantage as to time; and, nevertheless, no one can deny that everybody is in favor of travelling on board steamers. The evident reason of this fact lies in the regularity and certainty of a steamer line, which enable merchants and passengers to make reliable calculations, that, under most circumstances, may be of great importance to their affairs. Besides, there are people who would not be persuaded to leave land, if, instead of steamers, they had to traverse the ocean on board a sailing ship. Thus the regular service of oceanic steamers invites travel exactly in the same manner as the opening of a railroad, wherever it be, rapidly increases the number of travellers between the places it connects.
The empire of Brazil, having not very long ago been under the rule of a European government, it is natural that its inhabitants should have a special inclination for that country whence they drew their habits, manners, customs, fashions, luxury and literature, to such a degree that even the greatest part of their manufactures are imported from there. Generally speaking, their only relations with foreigners have been and continue to be with Europe. Since the establishment of the constitution Brazil has gradually advanced in population, wealth and civilization, and its commerce has gone on constantly increasing with almost all the civilized maritime nations. Great Britain was for many years its principal purveyor, but the United States is its principal customer. The commerce between Brazil and the United States, which to-day is so considerable, is entirely based upon the exchange of several agricultural productions, the principal of which are coffee and sugar on the part of Brazil, flour and lumber on that of the United States.
EXCHANGES WITH THE UNITED STATES.Let us now present some statistical data of the Brazilian commerce during several years past. For eleven years, viz., from 1847 to 1857, inclusive, the United States imported to Brazil, (Rio de Janeiro) 2,590,676 barrels of flour; in the last three years, viz., 1855, '56 and '57, they imported 884,963 barrels—during the same eleven years they received from Brazil 9,556,325 bags of coffee, and in the last three years, 1855, '56, and '57, 3,209,640 bags.
By estimating the barrel of flour in Brazil at $10 per barrel, and the bag of coffee in the United States at $15 per bag, the value of the imported coffee in the United States during eleven years, was...............
$143,344,325 | |
Exported flour | 25,906,160 |
Exported flour | $117,438,665 |
And during the three years, 1855, '56, and '57, the value of imported coffee was............
$48,144,460 | ||
Exported flour | 8,489,630 | |
Difference | $39,294,830 |
For the last year, 1857, there were imported from the United States to Brazil, 355,858 barrels of flour, and received 901,374 bags of coffee, which, estimated as above, will give the following result:—
Value of imported coffee | $13,520,610 | |
Value of imported coffee | 3,558,580 | |
Difference | $9,962,030 |
Let us now for a moment consider the ratio of increase of the exchange of those staple articles which constitute the principal commerce between the two countries. In 1847 there were shipped from the United States to Brazil, (Rio de Janeiro) 180,848 barrels of flour, and in 1857, 355,858 barrels, which gives an increase of almost 100 per cent. In 1847 the United States received from Brazil 729,742 bags of coffee, and in 1857, 901,374 bags—the latter year being an exceptional one, compared with former ones. The real increase for eleven years was only ten per cent.
Whilst Brazil during the above mentioned years received from the United States, 2,509,676 barrels of flour, it received from Europe and all other countries, 273,110 barrels, viz., scarcely a ninth part of the whole amount. In 1857 Brazil imported from the United States 355,858 barrels, and from Europe, &c., only 15,846, viz., a twenty-third part.
We have stated already that during the three years 1855, '56 and '57 Brazil exported to the United States 3,209,640 bags coffee, and during the same period to Europe and other parts 3,279,909 bags, the quantity shipped for the United States being almost equal to that exported to Europe and all other parts. And whilst in 1857 there were exported to the United States 901,374 bags coffee, England received only 446,996 bags, or less than the half. It is, therefore, beyond any doubt that the United States are eminently the great customer of Brazil. The money transactions resulting from this considerable commercial exchange between Brazil and the United States are transacted almost entirely by way of England. The coffee trade of Brazil is steadily increasing, and has admirably done so, if we take into account the difficulties against which it had to struggle for many years.
Thus, in 1820 the total export from Brazil was 97,500 bags, whilst in 1857 it amounted to 2,065,718. In thirty-seven years it has increased twenty-two times. Had the population and wealth of the United States during this same period not increased in such an enormous proportion, the coffee trade of Brazil would not have given the same result, as, also, should the United States discontinue to be the customer of Brazil, that commerce would almost entirely cease to exist.
HOW TO INCREASE THE TRADE.Now, the time has arrived when the people of the United States have to consider, not how to withdraw their custom, but how to increase their return trade with the country with which they entertain such a considerable commerce. We have traced the movement and actual exchange of flour and coffee. In what position are the people of the United States in reference to other interests, compared with other nations?
During the financial year of 1853 there entered the ports of Brazil, proceeding from foreign ports, 2,222 vessels, with a tonnage of 708,807; 602 vessels, with 281,669 tons, came from Great Britain and her possessions; 343, with 121,871 tons, came from the United States.
The greater part of these 602 British vessels were freighted with merchandise, whilst of the 343 vessels from the United States the greater part were freighted with flour and lumber.
In 1856 Brazil imported from Great Britain to the amount of
$24,543,000 | |
From the United States | 3,726,540 |
Difference | 20,816,460 |
—And whilst Liverpool sent us $7,500,000, New York sent us scarcely $450,000. It is useless to enter here into more minute details on this point. Facts and figures show conclusively that England is the great purveyor and manufacturer in regard to Brazil, and that the United States, up to this date, have contented themselves with being its customer.
If England had not established a steamship line between Southampton and Rio de Janeiro, touching at Pernambuco and Bahia, the United States, although laboring under the great disadvantage of carrying on all their money transactions by way of England, might have been able to gradually gain ground and to secure to themselves a share in the general commerce. But commerce with England since the opening of direct steam communication with Brazil, received such an impulse, and is to-day so well directed, that without a competition supported by steamers on the part of the United States, all efforts whatever for the purpose of obtaining a share in the general commerce will be without hope of success. But let us suppose a steamship line between New York and Rio de Janeiro, touching at Pernambuco and Bahia, and entering into communication with the Brazilian company, being in active exercise: the result of it would probably surpass the most enthusiastic calculations. If the Congress of the United States should extend the support of the government to that enterprise, all secondary points relative to the ports to be touched could be easily settled.
The statistical details and the reasons alleged at the close of the last session of Congress, already too far advanced to allow any discussion of them, are unquestionably in favor of the urgent necessity of establishing steam communication between the two countries. And if such a steam communication by itself is now very desirable, how long will it be before it becomes a necessity?
PARITY OF DEVELOPMENT BRTWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND BRAZIL.If, with a population of thirty millions in one country and of eight millions in the other, it seems to be practicable, how much more will it be so in the United States! There will be fifty millions, and in Brazil twenty millions of people. The two greatest nations in the Western hemisphere cannot for a long time remain without the greatest commercial faculties furnished by modern improvements. The United States have initiated a vast system of internal ameliorations, by means of railroads, which tend to foster and increase not only its interior commerce, but also that with foreign nations. Brazil, also, has made a beginning with its system of railroads in the interior, which must successively extend, and become a great instrument for improving its agriculture, manufactures and commerce. The domestic industry of Brazil will be stimulated by these internal improvements, and thousands of colonists proceeding from the most peopled countries of Europe will find an allurement for fixing their residence in this great Southern empire.
It is not to be expected that the emigration from the United States to Brazil, or vice versa, will ever be as easy as that just mentioned, both countries being similar in their prominent aspects; but if the social, commercial and mechanical relations of the two peoples shall have been rendered more active by the establishment of a regular steam communication, no human power will be able to stop their progress. At the same time, both of them must adopt sensible measures to aid the prosperity of either of them.
The domestic industry of the one will not be prejudiced by that of her neighbor, but, on the contrary, for this very reason, will be advanced. It is in the direct interest of the United States that Brazil should rapidly increase, not only in population, but also in industry and wealth. Wherever a great quantity of goods is produced or manufactured there will always be a facility of disposing of a portion of them in favor of other nations, and thus of increasing reciprocal commerce. The industry of the countries from whence the importation is taking place will thus be stimulated by the sale of commodities given in exchange. It would be weakness to look on this matter from a less liberal point of view. Whatever greater commercial facility may be given to Brazil must necessarily strengthen it and increase its transactions in general; and no country can be more interested in a similar cause than the United States, if we look to the future. Independently of the commercial advantages which evidently must result to either country, there are other considerations of more importance, which cannot fail to strike those who have seriously studied this matter. Politically speaking, it is as much the interest of Brazil as of the United States to support the other and o gradually cultivate the most amicable relations.
With regard to the proposed steam communication, the following may be considered as a brief notice of the general views taken of it in the United States. Figures and facts drawn from the history of the past, and the statistics of the actual commerce, seem to guarantee the success of the enterprise. The most intelligent observers do not discover any plausible reason for not auguring the happiest result, and at the same time the most advantageous occasion is offered to vastly increase the traffic and the means of transport of passengers between the United States and Brazil; the commerce between them and other South American countries will likewise be considerably augmented.
As regards the Empire of Brazil, does it answer its interests to have direct steam communication with the United States? It has been already proved that of all its customers the United States is the best—not only the best, but equal to all the others united. This is a very important fact. If it be evident in itself that in private affairs, by smoothing the ways and augmenting the facilities between purchasers and sellers the quantity of transactions and exchanges will be increased, it will be difficult to prove the contrary with regard to nations; and certainly among private persons a seller would not desire to see his best customer badly served.
PRESENT STATE OF BRAZIL.Brazil is comparatively a new country or nation, possessing a territory of vast extent, greater than that of the United States, a large portion of which is of extreme fertility and abundant in precious woods and mineral wealth, with an extensive coast, provided with fine and safe harbors, and with a climate equal, if not superior, to any other portion of the earth. Already, with a population twice greater than that of the United States in the year 1790, with its system of internal improvements vigorously pursued, and with the rapid development of its resources, which to-day are buried in complete lethargy, its future greatness will be on a far larger scale.
For several years more coffee will continue to form its principal product and first staple article for export commerce; but in proportion as the current of its population pours over its immense interior, other articles will, in their turn, play a more prominent part, and the whole commerce of that country will keep pace with the increase of the population. The natural augmentation of a population of eight to nine millions—its actual state—will be very considerable, to which Europe will add by immigration a great per centage.
By means of a system of land grants properly organized, this government is able to offer great allurements to foreigners to establish themselves there and to cultivate the interior. At the same time, Brazil may hope from the United States, in proportion as the relations between the two countries will have been multiplied, many advantages by the introduction of its improved agricultural instruments and various other articles which, thus far, have not formed any important item in its commerce. England and the United States are great manufacturing nations, and it must be the interest of Brazil to encourage competition between them. England has greatly improved her position with reference to Brazil, since 1850, by the decisive advantages resulting from her steam communication.
The general trade has also much increased between her and Brazil, while between the latter and the United States that commerce has scarcely begun, and, without some new incentive, may remain in its infancy, leaving in the meantime Brazil exposed to the evil influence of monopoly. The proportion in the increase of coffee export to the United States, will, in future, probably be greater than it has been till now, on account of the great impulse communicated to it by the culture of waste lands and the generally improved condition of the planters, in consequence of the introduction of railroads.
The consumption of Brazilian coffee during the last seven years was 964,700 bags yearly, whilst during the seven preceding years it was on an average yearly only 661,670 bags, showing for that short period an increase of forty-six per cent. This answers exactly the period of seven years during which railroads were regularly opened in the interior of the United States; and the greatly increased shipping of coffee to New Orleans and New York—the two principal points which provide the interior—shows the wholesome influence exercised by the establishment of railroads. The demand for an article like coffee will increase in the United States in a greater proportion than that of its increased population, because the railroad, although a mere machine, is at the same time a great civilizer, and soon transforms what at first was luxury, into common wants, and afterwards into necessities.
And for the same reason, if Brazil continues its policy of internal improvements, the demand for those articles which the United States is able to furnish in exchange, at moderate prices, will also increase. It is not possible to fix any limits to the amount of this exchange traffic between the two nations. However, the true policy of Brazil cannot be to put any obstacle in the way of the progress of this traffic; on the contrary, it is its interest to accord to it all possible facility, in order to improve and complete it. Certainly there is every probability that between Brazil and the united States the most amicable relations will continue, if there is taken into consideration the reciprocity of their interests and position with regard to other nations.
NATURAL ALLIANCE BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES.These two countries, governed by liberal constitutions, are destined to be natural allies in the progress of the world; and in truth it is the interest of all nations to be friends to Brazil, not only in consideration of its progressive importance in the rank of nations, but on account of its position on the ocean. Brazil, and in particular its commercial capital—Rio de Janeiro—is placed as if to serve as a central station to the commercial relations of all maritime nations. From Europe to the East Indies, and to the western coast of South and North America, and from the United States to those points, Rio de Janeiro is the great provisioning port. Ships in danger or having suffered damage, merchant craft proceeding from all parts of the globe, may touch at Rio de Janeiro, sure to find there a safe and commodious harbor, with the best opportunity of procuring assistance, of providing themselves with provisions, water, &c. Rio de Janeiro thus occupies a peculiar and imposing position, to which no other port in the world can ever become a rival.
Let us hope that the shores of Brazil will never be visited by any vindictive invader, and it can never be the interest of the United States to play such a part. The United States are to-day the second, and will soon be the first commercial nation of the world. They behold in Brazil another great and young nation, rising in the same hemisphere and pursuing the same general policy, viz.: that of conferring the greatest quantity of well being on the greatest number possible. And if the United States, which have not yet ceased to be a young nation, are already the greatest customer of Brazil, what may be expected within twenty years, when their net of railways, whose length already exceeds 26,000 miles, will be still more extended, especially if Brazil should persevere in the some manner in its domestic improvements, and adopt a liberal policy with regard to foreigners? Here are two young nations, near each other, whose yearly exchanges amount to nearly twenty millions of dollars. In a few years these figures will have doubled; and shall such a considerable commerce, and the money transactions resulting from it, forever continue in their present embarrassing position, because these two countries are forced in their mutual communications to have recourse to an immense circuit? One of the principal reasons of that state of things being continued is that the two nations know very little of each other. Generally the people of the United States entertain a very erroneous and false opinion of the actual state of Brazil. They are not aware of the great improvements which have taken place here during these last ten years; they know little of the progress of its political and social life; and without having more frequent relations they will be unable to duly appreciate the Brazilians. The simplest way of doing away with this inconvenience is to establish a steamship line directly from the United States to Brazil. If the Congress of the United States should extend its protection to a company for the formation of such a line, would it not be also the interest of Brazil and the Brazilians to encourage it as much as possible?
There are many important points which concern the relations of both countries. The character of their institutions, in spite of the few relations existing between them, bears a great resemblance. This may partly be attributed to the fact that the people of both countries enjoy the liberty to procure their well-being in the way they like. The one have a President, the other an Emperor; but the provisions of their respective constitutions are equally enlightened and humane for almost all practical purposes; they accord personal liberty and protection to everybody. There exist small differences; but in Brazil, in its most enlightened districts, life and property are as fully guaranteed as in the United States. Thus, being free, the natural intelligence of the people impels them to cultivate the arts and other branches of knowledge, and with the aid of well directed science the progress of agriculture, industry and commerce may be confidently looked or .
[begin surface 652]northern provinces. The most easterly chain, called the Serra do Mar, or Brazilian Andes, runs parallel to the coast. The highest summit is 4160 feet. Further west lies the Serra do Espinhaco. Its loftiest summits are Mount Itacolumi, near Villa Rica, 6175, and Serra do Frio, 6000 feet high. A third chain, the Serra dos Vertentes, separates the confluents of the Amazon, the Tocantin, and the Parnahiba, from those of the San Francisco, the Paraguay, and the Parana. None of its summits reach to a great elevation.
3. Valleys.—The valleys of the Amazon and other great rivers are of immense extent, generally consisting of plains and undulating lands. In the former, the country is characterized by frequent thunder-storms and torrents of rain, which occur in the morning, after cloudless nights.
4. Plain.—The whole central part of South America, comprised within the Andes of Bolivia, Peru, and New Granada, the Parima Mountains in Venezuela, and the Serra dos Vertentes of Brazil, including nearly the whole of the latter country, the northern part of Bolivia, the eastern part of Peru, and the southeastern districts of New Granada, forms a vast plain, whose area exceeds three millions of square miles. It is covered with a luxuriant and gigantic vegetation, to which the hot and humid climate gives an astonishing vigor. The immense and impenetrable forests and mighty streams of this great plain swarm with animal life in all its forms. Ferocious beasts of prey, huge serpents, alligators, troops of monkeys, flocks of gaudily colored and loquacious birds, and clouds of insects, are here yet undisturbed by the arts of man.
5. Rivers and Lakes.—The Marañon, or Amazon, is the largest river in the world, in regard to its volume of water. It rises in the Andes of Bolivia, under the name of the Paro, and flowing northerly through Peru into Quito, receives the waters of the Tunguragua, which descends from the Andes of Peru and Quito; thence it runs in an easterly direction across the continent, emptying the accumulated waters of its two hundred tributaries into the ocean, under the equator, by a mouth 175 miles wide. The tide is perceptible at the distance of 600 miles from the sea, and the river is navigable several times that distance for large ships. The principal tributaries from the south are the Javary, Jutay, Jurua, and Madeira, which rise in the lofty regions of Bolivia, and the Topayos and Xingu, which have their whole course in Brazil. From the north, it receives the Caqueta or Yapura, the Iça or Putumayo, and the Negro, the largest of its confluents. The Amazon drains an area of upward of two millions of square miles. The other principal rivers are the Para, formed by the junction of two great streams, the Tocantin and the Araguaya, the San Francisco, and the Parnaiba, which flow into the Atlantic Ocean. The Paraguay rises in seven lakes in Brazil. There are many other lakes in the south, the largest of which are Patos and Miriun, near the Rio Grande.
6. Shores, Harbors, &c.—Brazil has 2500 miles of sea-coast, with numerous bays and harbors.
7. Vegetable Products, &c.—Enjoying a favorable climate and a fertile soil, this country produces a great variety and abundance of plants. The forests yield valuable woods for dyeing and building. All kinds of tropical produce, sugar, coffee, cotton, &c., are found in the warmer regions, while other districts abound in the cereal grains, and the fruits of temperate climates. The milk-tree, caoutchouc or India-rubber tree, manioc, mate, logwood, mahogany, ipecac, sassafras, and numerous useful woods, are among the native products.
8. Animals.—The wild animals comprise the jaguar, puma, and other cat species, the tapir, peccary, alligators, poisonous and monstrous serpents, troops of monkeys, parrots, macaws, toucans, curassows, humming-birds, &c. The plains abound with wild cattle.
9. Minerals.—Gold is obtained both from mines and from washings, in various places. Copper and salt abound. Iron and platinum are met with. Diamonds are found in several districts. The diamond district in the province of Minas Geraes belongs to the crown, and all strangers are strictly excluded from it. The diamonds are obtained by washings, by means of which they are separated from the earth in which they are contained. Slaves are employed in working the mines. If a slave finds a gem of extraordinary value, he obtains his liberty.
10. Climate.—In the northern parts, and in the neighborhood of the Amazon, the climate is hot and moist. Toward the south, it is temperate and healthy, and throughout a considerable portion of the country it may be described as highly agreeable and genial. Here, as in other parts of South America, south of the equator, the summer and winter months are reversed. June, July, and August belong to the latter, and December, January, and February belong to the former.
11. Soil.—In the west, near the Gerat Mountains, are elevated plains, called Campos Parexis, forming a sandy and nearly barren desert. The larger part of the rest of Brazil is fertile. Along the rivers are some of the richest lands in the world.
12. Political Divisions, Population, etc.—The empire is divided into 18 provinces, the approximate area and population of which are as follows: This table lists the capitals and provinces of Brazil, along with their area in square miles and their populations. The capitals and provinces are as follows: Para, or Belem, Grao Para; Maranhão, Maranhão; Oeiras, Piauhi; Portaleza, Ceara; Natal, Rio Grande do Norte; Parahiba, Parahiba; Pernambuco, or Recife, Pernambuco; Porto Calvo, Alagoas; Seregipe del Rei, Seregipe del Rei; Bahia, or San Salvador, Bahia; Vittoria, Espiritu Santo; Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro; São Paulo, São Paulo; Desterro, Santa Catarina; Porto Allegre, Rio Grande do sul; Ouro Preto, Minas Geraes; Cuiaba, Matto Grosso; Goyaz, Goyaz. —of the total population, negro and mulatto slaves form about one-half, and the white or European races a sixth part of the whole.
13. Agriculture.—This is the chief employment, but it is rudely conducted. The raising of cattle, horses, and mules, upon the great plains, is the chief object of the farmers there. Maize, sugar, coffee, cotton, rice, wheat, and tobacco are produced. Nearly all the labor of the country is performed by slaves.
14. Manufactures.—These are in their infancy, being
3. Valleys? 4. Plains? 5. Rivers and lakes? 6. Shores, harbors &c.? 7. Vegetable products? 8. Animals? 9. Minerals? 10. Climate? 11. Soil? 12. Divisions? 13. Agriculture? 14. Manufactures? 15. Commerce? 16. Mining? 17. Inhabitants? [begin surface 654]confined to cotton-weaving, tanning, and the production of goods of primary necessity.
15. Commerce.—This is considerable. The exports consist of hides, tallow, diamonds, gold-dust, dyewoods, coffee, cotton, sugar, tobacco, &c. Coffee is the chief staple.
16. Mining.—The mines employ a large number of persons. The best diamond mines are wrought by government. There is also an English mining company actively employed.
17. Inhabitants.—A large portion of the country has never been explored, and is occupied by savage tribes of independent Indians. The population of the part actually under the government of the whites is composed of 1,200,000 whites, principally Portuguese, or of Portuguese origin, but including a considerable number of Swiss and German emigrants; 2,600,000 slaves, partly black, and partly of mixed races; 800,000 free colored persons, also consisting of blacks and different mixed breeds; and 400,000 Indians. The Brazilians are cheerful, good-humored, and intelligent, though little has been done to diffuse the means of education in the country.
18. Religion, &c.—The established religion is the Roman Catholic, no other being tolerated except in the domestic circle; the government is a constitutional monarchy. Justices of the peace are elected by the people. Trial by jury is established. The standing army consists of 17,000 men, and the navy of sixty-seven vessels.
19. Chief Towns.—Rio Janeiro, often called simply Rio, is the capital and principal city of the empire. It has one of the finest harbors in America. Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranham are important and flourishing commercial places.
20. History.—Pinzon, one of the companions of Columbus, first saw the coast of Brazil, north of the Amazon, in 1499; but the chief discovery was made by the Portuguese, under Cabral, who, while on a voyage to the East Indies, accidentally came in sight of the southern coast, May 3, 1500. No gold was at first discovered here, and the most valuable exports consisted of dyewood, from which the name of Brazil was given to the country. The settlements of the Portuguese advanced but slowly, and the other European nations, French, English, and Dutch, disputed with them the possession of so great an extent of coast. In 1690, mines of gold were discovered in Brazil, and diamonds shortly afterward. These discoveries raised the country to the level of the richest Spanish possessions in America, and made it the most important source of revenue to the crown of Portugal. In the southern portions, a band of adventurers, called Paulists, formed a sort of democratic government in the early part of the seventeenth century, and for many years led a life of wild independence, making frequent incursions among the savage tribes, for the purpose of enslaving the natives. This lawless community was broken up about the middle of the last century. When the French invaded Portugal, in 1807, the royal family escaped to Brazil, where they continued to dwell, after the expulsion of the invaders. On the overthrow of Napoleon, Brazil was raised from the rank of a colony to that of a kingdom. The inhabitants of Portugal testified their discontent at this change, and compelled the
king to return to Lisbon in 1821, leaving his son, Don Pedro, as regent of Brazil. The Brazilians were now resolved to throw off all connection with the mother country. Accordingly, on the 12th October, 1822, they declared themselves independent, and conferred the crown on Don Pedro, with the title of Emperor of Brazil. The king finding resistance unavailing, formally resigned his claim to the government of Brazil in 1825. Brazil is now a limited monarchy, with a senate and house of representatives, both elected by the people. Under this government, the country has been generally tranquil and prosperous.
1. Characteristics.—This ocean separates Europe and Africa from America, and is the great highway of commerce between the two continents.
2. Currents.—There are several remarkable currents in the Atlantic. 1. The South Atlantic Current, coming round the Cape of Good Hope, and passing northward along the coast of Africa, meets a northern current at the Gulf of Guinea. Here it takes a western course. 2. The Equatorial Current, commenced by the preceding, flows from east to west. Off Cape St. Roque it divides, one stream setting south toward Cape Horn, and the other northward. 3. This latter passes west into the Gulf of Mexico, whence, having made the circuit of that sea, it issues, with great velocity, through the Florida Channel into the Atlantic. Here it takes the name of the Gulf Stream. Its velocity diminishes as it passes northward. Off Cape Henlopen it is five miles an hour. It touches the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, and crosses the ocean to the Azores. Here it turns southward, and proceeds toward Africa, where it assists the Equatorial Current, as just stated.
3. Vegetation.—Two great fields of sea-weed are known in the Atlantic. One is between latitude 25° and 36° north, and longitude 30° and 32° west; the other between 22° and 26° north, and 70° and 72° west. These are so thick as to impede the progress of vessels. Some sea-weed grows to the length of 1000 feet. Of the species called rock-weed, kelp is made. One kind of sea-weed is eaten as a salad.
4. History.—It is uncertain at what period the Atlantic Ocean was first discovered. The Phœnicians are supposed to have traversed it, along the coasts of Europe, 900 years before Christ. In the time of Pharaoh Necho, about 600 years before Christ, vessels sailed around Africa, from the Straits of Babelmandel, and returned to Egypt through the Straits of Gibraltar. The Carthaginians were in the habit of sending their ships to Spain, England, Ireland, and the Baltic, several hundred years before the Christian era. They had some settlements on the west coast of Africa, and it is conjectured that their vessels actually crossed to the West Indies. This, however, is doubtful. The Northmen discovered Iceland in 860, Greenland in 981, and New England about 1000 A. D. In general, however, the Atlantic was considered by the people of Europe as a boundless and interminable sea, till the voyage of Columbus in 1492.
18. Religion &c.? 19. Chief towns? 20. History? When did Brazil declare her independence?
Exercises on the Map of the Atlantic Ocean—What is the extent of the Atlantic Ocean? Length? Width? Depth? The principal islands? Distances? Boundaries of the Atlantic?
LESSON XC. 1. Characteristics of the Atlantic? 2. Currents? 3. Vegetation? 4. History? What of the Phœnicians, Carthaginians, and Northmen?
[begin surface 655]There are forty-eight crowned heads in Europe—namely, three Emperors, of France, of Russia, and of Austria; two Queens, of Great Britain and of Spain; thirteen Kings, of Prussia, of Sweden, of Holland, of Belgium, of Sardinia, of Denmark, of Portugal, of Greece, of Bavaria, of Hanover, of Saxe, of Wurtemburg, and of Naples; one Sultan, of Turkey; one Pope, of Rome; one Elector, of Hesse; seven Grand Dukes, of Tuscany, of Baden, of Saxe-Weimar, of Hesse-Darmstadt, of Oldenburg, of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, and of Mecklenburg-Strelitz; nine Dukes, of Parma, of Modena, of Anhalt-Dessau, of Anhalt-Bernburg, of Brunswick, of Nassau, of Saxe-Altenburg, of Saxe-Meiningen, and of Saxe-Coburg Gotha; and ten Princes, of Lippe, of Waldeck, of Hesse-Homburg, of Schwarzburg Londershausen, of Schwarzburg Rudolstadt, of Lichtenstein, of Schamburg-Lippe, of Reuss-Greiz, of Reuss-Schleis, and of Monaco. All these princely personages are sovereign rulers of their respective countries, and as such equal in rank; although the Emperor of Russia is master over a territory of more than seven millions of square miles, and the Princes of Monaco and of Lichtenstein have less than fifty each. Nevertheless, in the eyes of every faithful Royalist, as well as of the Almanach de Gotha, all legitimate princes are "ebenburtig," or equal born, whatever may be their political power or the extent of their dominions. They are in their own order "peers;" and if the eldest daughter of the Czar or of the Austrian Kaiser chose to marry the poorest Prince of Reuss-Greiz, no herald at arms could call it a mesalliance.
There are, however, some other minor differences of rank which determine the position of these forty-eight sovereigns, or rather these forty-six; for two of them, the Sultan and the Pope, must, for obvious reasons be excluded from the "family." In the first instance, a great point with royalty is legitimacy, or length of tenure; and it is tacitly understood that all royal houses whose pedigree does not extend over at least a couple of centuries are non-legitimate. Measured by this standard, the sovereigns of France and of Sweden cannot be said to belong to the circle of "equal born" monarchs, whose number is thus reduced to forty-four. The forty-four, again, may be divided into two classes; namely, princes of German origin and princes of Galic descent; so that altogether the European sovereigns fall under four different divisions:—
1. Sovereigns quite unconnected with the rest—two in number, the Sultan and the Pope.
2. Sovereigns of recent creation—two in number, the rulers of France and of Sweden.
3. Sovereigns of Gallic origin—three in number, the Queen of Spain, and the Kings of Naples and of Portugal, the descendants of Hugh Capet, or the Bourbon family.
4. Sovereins of Teutonic origin—forty-one in number, namely, the rulers of the whole of Europe, with the exception of those of the Iberian peninsula, of a small part of Italy, of France, of Sweden, and of Turkey.
In this concise classification, already a singular fact forces itself on our attention. The inhabitants of Europe number about 260 millions. Of these, 78 millions are Slavonians; 81 millions belong to the Latin, and 83 to the Teutonic races; and, consequently, if every nation were governed by rulers of the same origin as themselves, the proportion of sovereigns of Europe would consist, in about three equal thirds, of monarchs of these three divisions of mankind. But so far is this from being the case that the Slavonic tribes furnish no ruling princes at all to Europe, and that the Latin races contribute but a proportionately small number; so that the sovereign power of the most important quarter of the world is chiefly in the hands of monarchs of Teutonic origin. It was not always so, inasmuch as only about three centuries ago the sovereign rulers belonged more equally to the three dominant races in proportion to their political influence. The present preponderance of German royalty has come about gradually and very steadily, and the tendency of the present state of affairs in Europe is certainly rather towards a further increase of Teutonic kingships, and a further decrease of Latin and Slavonic power, than the contrary. It is curious how race has worked its way in this respect. The house of Stuart, with a few drops of Celtic blood in its veins, had to give way before the German family of Brunswick-Luneburg, which has since received new elements of race by a fresh infusion of Saxon blood. Again, the house of Romanoff, of pure Slavonic origin, made room for the line of Holstein-Gottorp, by birth and by continued alliances completely Teutonic; and before this, the Slavonic families which ruled Austria and Bohemia were unseated by a German prince of very modest fortune, Rudolf von Hapsburg, whose descendants up to this day govern a multitude of foreign tribes, but conclude their matrimonial alliances only in the land of their origin. Nay, even in the classic islands of the Mediterranean, a German king holds the sceptre, and the Iberian peninsula is successfully invaded by the house of Coburg.
These princely German houses, through centuries of matrimonial alliances, have become united into one large family, with greater or lesser grades of consanguinity between the different crowned heads. They all may be traced, however, to six different lines, growing up almost simultaneously in the soil of a country highly favorable in its feudal constitution for the production of kingship. The first of these lines is that of Saxony, the princes of which trace their origin up to Duke Wittekind, a leader of some half-savage tribes on the river Elbe, who was converted to Christianity by the Emperor Charlemagne, about the year 785. The Princes of Savoy, who have become at present Kings of Sardinia, as well as the Kings of Saxony, the Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar, and the three ducal houses of Saxe Meiningen, Saxe-Altenburg, and Saxe-Coburg Gotha, are reported to be the descendants of this Duke Wittekind. The second line of sovereign German princes is that of Alsace, whose members find their ancestor in one Adelbert, duke of a territory on the Rhine, who lived in the beginning of the eighth century, and whose descendants are the Emperor of Austria, the Grand Dukes of Tuscany and of Baden, and the Dukes of Parma. The third line is that of Oldenburg, founded by a Count of Ringelheim in the eleventh century; and from it springs the kings of Denmark, the deposed kings of Sweden, and the Grand Dukes of Oldenburg, and the Dukes of Holstein. A younger branch of the latter house has filled for the last century the throne of Russia. The fourth line is that of D'Este, founded by Azon I., Margrave d'Este, in the beginning of the eleventh century; and from it the present royal family of Great Britain, the Kings of Hanover, the Dukes of Brunswick and of Modena, and the Princes of Lichtenstein, draw their origin. The fifth line is that of Zollern, or as it is commonly called, Hohenzollern, which has its ancestors in the Counts of Zohlern who lived in the tenth century, and from whom descend the Kings of Prussia. Lastly, the sixth line is that of Nassau, founded in the twelfth century, from which spring the Kings of the Netherlands and the Dukes of Nassau. The rest of the sovereigns of Teutonic origin come all indirectly from these six great sources.
There are, as already said, only three monarchs of the Gallic or Latin race, the Queen of Spain, and the Kings of Naples and of Portugal. They are descendants of Hugo Capet, Count of Paris.
The rulers of the vast dominions colloquially included under that name, down to the time of Peter the Great, were natives of the country, descendants of the old chieftains Rurik and Romanoff. Peter, as is well known, married a Livonian peasant girl, Catherine; who brought him two children, Anna and Elizabeth. The first of these, Princess Anna, united herself to a Duke of Holstein-Gottorp, and became in course of time the mother of a little German Prince, called Peter Ulrich, who, after his aunt Elizabeth, by the aid of sundry conspiracies and assassinations, had ascended the throne of the Czars, was named her successor.
The Czars of the house of Holstein-Gottorp are physically a fine body of men.
The present Emperor of Russia is a tall and somewhat stout man, with a pleasing countenance, but a look as if suffering under some hidden malady or sorrow. His eyelids droop over the inner corner of the eye with deep melancholy; and though the mouth is not without sweetness, the whole profile, Grecian in outline, recalls the features of termagant Catherine, the Elizabeth of the North. Czar Alexander was married on his twenty-third birthday to a Princess of Hesse-Darmstadt, the youngest sister of the present Grand Duke.
Czar Alexander has five brothers and sisters. The eldest, Mary, is widow of the Duke Maximilian of Leuchtenberg, a son of Eugene Beuharnois , the adopted child of the Emperor Napoleon I.; the second sister, Olga, is married to the Crown Prince of Wurtemberg. Grand Duke Constantine, the next brother, has united himself to the daughter of the Duke of Saxe-Altenburg. Grand Duke Nicholas has married a Princess of Oldenburg, and Grand Duke Michel, the youngest of the late Czar's children, is husband to a Princess of Baden, a sister of the present reigning Duke. Finally, the mother of the Czar, the Empress Dowager, who is at present living in Italy, is sister of the King and the Prince of Prussia, and, consequently, aunt to Prince Friedrich Wilhelm, whose nuptial knot has been tied last week at St. James' Palace. The imperial family of Russia is, therefore, to sum up the whole, closely related to the Royal houses of Prussia, of Wurtemberg, of Holland, and of Great Britain; and the ducal houses of Hesse-Darmstadt, of Saxe-Altenburg, of Oldenburg, of Saxe-Weimar, and of the two Mecklenburgs. It is among the Protestant princely families of Germany that the Czars of the house of Holstein-Gottorp have always sought and continue seeking wives for themselves and their children.
Next to Russia, Austria is the most important empire on the continent of Europe, in extent as well as in population. The ruler of Austria bears the title of Kaiser-König—(Emperor-King)—Kaiser on
account of the Imperial states, and König for Hungary alone.
The house of Hapsburg is of purely German origin. Rudolf, the founder of the royal family, was the descendant of an old noble line of counts of the "Holy Roman" Empire, who lived in a well fortified castle on the river Aar, the ruins of which all travellers in the north of Switzerland may see at the present day. A hundred years ago, with the death of Kaiser Charles VI. the male line of the house became extinct, but as the Kaiser's only daughter, Maria Theresa, again married a prince of German descent, Teutonic blood may be said to flow in its purest state in the veins of the Austrian Emperors.
No reigning family of Europe has derived so much advantage from successful matrimonial alliances as the house of Hapsburg. The sword of its founder, Rudolf, constructed only the nucleus of the vast possessions which the family afterwards acquired. Next to Rudolf, the greatest man whom the family ever produced, Maximilian I., may be called the founder of the power of the house of Hapsburg, for it was he who, by three lucky marriages—his own, his son's, and his grandson's—consolidated the rising state.
Francis Joseph I. is at present in his twenty-seventh year. He is a pale, sickly-looking young man, with dull, heavy eyes, low forehead, and the hereditary big under lip. He married, about four years ago, a daughter of the Duke of Bavaria, Elizabeth; who has brought him two children, both female, one of whom, however, has already died. This union was brought about by the Emperor's mother, Archduchess Sophia, a princess all powerful at court, who may be regarded as the real ruler of Austria. The Emperor has three brothers, Ferdinand, Charles and Louis, the first and the last of whom are unmarried; but the second, Archduke Charles, was united, about a year ago, to a daughter of the King of Saxony.
The Austrian imperial family is very numerous at the present time. There are three Empresses,—the widow of the late Emperor Francis I., a Bavarian Princess, now in her sixty-sixth year; the Empress Anne, wife of Ferdinand, and, lastly, the consort of the present Emperor. Besides these three Empresses and the two Emperors, there are sixteen Archdukes and seventeen Archduchesses, mostly descendants of the Emperor Francis I., who was married four times, and of his brothers, each of whom had several consorts.
The actual connections by marriage of the Austrian Imperial family do not extend very far, nor are they with very great houses. The princely families of almost the whole of Northern, central, and Western Germany, being Protestant, the choice of the kaisers and Archdukes is restricted to the houses of Bavaria and Saxony; unless they again hazard, which they do not seem inclined to do, fresh matrimonial alliances with the Bourbons of Naples and of Spain,—connections which have proved, in the example of Ferdinand, so nearly fatal to the race of Hapsburg.
The third Emperor in our list of European sovereigns is Charles Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, Emperor of the French; but we shall not have to say much of him, as of all the monarchs of this quarter of the globe, he—of course with the exception of the Pope and Sultan—is the least connected with the rest by family alliance. He is certainly regarded as non-legitimate by all of them.
The whole, or at least chief connection of the Bonaparte family with the other reigning houses of Europe, is through the uncle and aunt of the Emperor.
The ancienne maison royale de France, the great rival of the new family of Bonaparte, derives its chief power from its connections with European royalty, and has, for this reason alone, a still powerful hold on public opinion in and out of France. Far behind them in the night of time rise their ancestors; their Carolus Magnus (theirs not altogether, yet claimed by them), their Hugo Capet, their Henri Quatre, their Louis "le Grand." Age is their might ally, of whom they boast and to whom they trust. Yet monarchy in France, though it is old enough, has not always been very "legitimate." The descendants of Clovis were robbed of their sovereign rights by Pepin, their major domo; and the right of his progeny again was overruled by the son of Hugh the Great, Lord of the Isle of France. After him, the line of Valois ruled the country of Gauls till Henry IV., of the younger branch of the Hugo Capet family, laid hold of the crown by force of arms. From him down to Louis XVI., who died on the scaffold, the line of legitimate French kings is unbroken.
The Bourbons have sunk immensely from their former greatness, yet they are still in possession of three crowns, and lay claim to the fourth. The present Queen of Spain, Isabel II., is the sixth Spanish monarch of the house of Bourbon; the kingdom of Naples and Sicily is ruled by the family for the last century and a half, and Portugal for nearly eight hundred years. Ferdinand II., the present King of Naples, has been married twice—the first time to a daughter of Victor Emmanuel, of Sardinia, who died in 1836, and had not been dead many months before the disconsolate widower rushed off to Paris to ask for the hand of a daughter of Louis Philippe. The arrangements between Naples and France were all but concluded, when, one day, at table, the Duke of Orleans uttered a few disrespectful words about the Duchess de Berry, which offended the fraternal feelings of Ferdinand. A quarrel ensued, and the consequence of it was, that King Ferdinand straightway left Paris for Vienna, and was married in January 1837, to Princess Theresa, a daughter of the Archduke Charles, brother to the late Emperor Francis I., of Austria. By this princess the King has eight children; the last of whom, born in 1855, is called Mary Immaculata Louise. By his first marriage with the Princess of Sardinia, Ferdinand had one son, Francis, who is now twenty-two years old, and heir apparent to the throne.
King Ferdinand has ten brothers and sisters. The first is the somewhat ill famed Duchess of Berry; the second, the no less reputed Queen Christina of Spain; the third, Prince Charles, married to a Miss Penelope Smith; the fourth, Prince Leopold, united to a Princess of Savoy; the fifth is Antoinette, Grand Duchess of Tuscany; the sixth and seventh, Amelia and Caroline, are married to Spanish Princes; the eighth, Theresa, is the Empress of Brazil; the ninth, Prince Louis, is married to a daughter of the late Emperor of Brazil; and the tenth, Francis de Paul, has a Princess of Tuscany. The aunt of King Ferdinand is the ex-Queen of the French, now residing at Claremont, a frequent visitor at Windsor Castle; and the niece of the King is married to the Duke d' Aumale, also at Claremont, Surrey. The royal family of Naples is thus related by marriage to the sovereigns of Austria, Spain, Brazil, Portugal, Tuscany, Sardinia and to the exiled house of Louis Philippe.
The Bourbons of Spain are not so well fortified by family alliances as their friends at Naples. Queen Isabella has married her cousin, Francis Maria Ferdinand, and her sister is united to the Duke of Montpensier. The Queen's mother has married a tall Spanish grenadier, the son of a tobacconist, with whom she is living at present; and all the rest of the Queen's male and female cousins, some two dozen in number, have married among themselves.
The process of amalgamation of the different royal families of Europe, and the ultimate absorption into the Teutonic element, is not visible in Spain, but, as if in opposition, becomes the more apparent in the neighboring Portugal. The young King of this country, behind his array of seventeen Christian names, has the somewhat homely sounding title of "Duke of Saxony;" and his father, also a King, carries this out still more by calling himself Ferdinand, "King of Portugal and Duke of Saxe-Coburg Gotha."
The grandson of Hugo Capet, Count Henry of Bourgogne, came into the Iberian peninsula about the year 1090, and received from King Alphonso IV. permission to fight the Moors, then still inhabiting the western parts of the country. He did so successfully, and got as a reward for his services the whole of the land thus conquered, a fine little lordship extending from the Minho to the Tagus. Henry's son and successor, Alfonso I., completed the work, and, with the help of the fleet of the Crusaders, laid hold of Lisbon, unconquered hitherto, and of a good part of the country south of it; and, having beaten five Moorish Kings in one successful battle, in 1139, he crowned himself king, and, to perpetuate the remembrance of the origin of the crown, put the five shields of the Arab chiefs into the arms of Portugal, where they are seen up to this day. His successors have ruled the country ever since, and even given emperors to a vast trans-Atlantic State.
The family of Victor Emmanuel II., King of Sardinia, is originally of German origin, but the founder of the direct line of Princes of Savoy was a Swiss Count, Berthold, who lived in the beginning of the eleventh century. The descendants of Berthold founded themselves a small but compact little principality in the Alps, thence gradually descending into the fertile plains of North Italy.
Victor Emmanuel II. is at present in the thirty-seventh year of his age. He married, in 1842, a daughter of Archduke Renier, of Austria, a brother of that Archduke John who wooed and won a Tryolese innkeeper's child. The Queen died in the beginning of 1855, and the King had not only to deplore this loss, but saw, within a few weeks of it, both his mother and his only brother laid in the grave. His Queen left him five children, the second of whom, Prince Humbert, now fourteen years old, is heir apparent to the throne. The King's late brother, who married a daughter of King John, of Saxony, also left two children, the youngest of whom, now in his fourth year, is called Duke of Genoa. Direct relations the royal house of Sardinia has only with Austria and Saxony, but through the latter its family is connected with the majority of European sovereigns.
What Sardinia is to Italy, Prussia is to Germany, the country of progress and of liberal political institutions. The origin, too, of the two reigning houses of Savoy and Hohenzollern has much similarity, for the founders of both houses had to thank only their own strong arm for what Territory they acquired as the basis of the future power of the family. Unlike the ancient Hapsburgs, neither Zollern nor Savoy ever got a square yard of land through matrimonial calculations.
The reigning family of Prussia is connected by earlier alliances than any other princely line with the sovereign house of Brunswick, now on the English throne. The second King of Prussia, Frederick William I., was married to a daughter of George I., when George was as yet only elector of Hanover. After he came to the English throne, a double marriage between the Prince of Wales and Princess Wilhelmina of Prussia, and Prince Frederick (afterwards Frederick the Great) and the English Princess Amelia, was projected, and was on the eve of being concluded, when secret Austrian machinations first interrupted and finally broke the good understanding between the two sovereigns. Frederick the Great ever afterwards deplored this, and had good reason for doing so, as the wife with which his somewhat despotic father provided him was all but an idiot. Frederick's nephew and successor was so much influenced by the dissolute manners which the absence of refined female society had engendered at the Court of Prussia, that during his reign, down to 1797, royal manners and morals were like those in the time of our Charles II.; and it was not until the accession of Frederick William III., the father of the present king, that a better state of things got the upper hand. The King has six brothers and sisters: the first is the actual Regent of Prussia, who has last week become the father-in-law of our Princess Royal, and who is married to a daughter of the late Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar; the second is the widow of the late Czar Nicholas, now Empress Dowager of Russia, residing in Florence; the third is Prince Charles, married to another daughter of the late Grand Duke of Saxe Weimar, a sister of the Princess of Prussia; the fourth is the Grand Duchess Dowager of Mecklenburg-Schwerin; the fifth is Princess Louisa, married to the Prince Frederick of the Netherlands; and the sixth is Prince Albert, who was married to Marrianne, a daughter of the late King William I. of Holland, but divorced from her after a union of nineteen years, on account of adultery. There are, besides, some children of the late King's brother, all of them, as also the Princess of Hohenzollern, the elder branch of the family, married to German sovereigns, but of lesser importance. On the whole, the house of Prussia has more extensive and more important family connections than almost any other royal line in Europe. The Hohenzollern sovereigns are nearly related to the reigning houses of Great Britain, of Russia, of Holland, of Bavaria, of Austria, of Saxony, of Hanover, of Baden, and many other reigning families of minor power.
The house of Prussia is also, though indirectly, related to the royal family of Sweden, a family interesting in more than one respect. The tenure of the house of Bernadotte is of posterior date to that of the house of Bonaparte, and yet the royal Swedish family is already sufficiently engrafted on the stock of European royalty to find wives and husbands among the class—a thing in which the members of the Corsican house, although their chief is a mighty Emperor, have not as yet succeeded. The reason for this good luck of the Bernadottes may be found in the calm, quiet, diplomatic way in which they settled down on their northern throne, and gradually screwed themselves into the confidence of their brother monarchs. The founder of the house, Jean Bernadotte, the son of a notary in the south of France, acted all his life long in this quiet, unpretending manner; and from a private of marines he worked his way through all the grades of military hierarchy up to the rank of general, under the first Bonaparte.
On the 12th June 1850, Prince Charles, the present Regent of Sweden, married a princess of the ancient house of Orange-Nassau, a daughter of Prince Frederick of the Netherlands, and of Princess Louise of Prussia, the sister of King Frederick William IV.; and now the family of Bernadotte might be said to have entered, on a footing of equality, the great circle of sovereigns of Europe.
What we now call Saxony is not the country originally so named, which lies further North.
The house of Saxony, chiefly this elder line, now represented in the four ducal families, has been more fertile in members than any other princely house for the last century. The present King of Saxony, John Nepomuk, who is married to a daughter of the late King Maximilian of Bavaria, has no fewer than eight children living, all born at intervals of from eighteen months to two years. Four of them are married already; the Crown Prince to a Princess Wasa; Princess Elizabeth to the brother of the King of Sardinia, whose death we mentioned above; Princess Anne to the Crown Prince of Tuscany; and Princess Marguerite to the second brother of the Emperor of Austria. There are, besides, the widow of the former King Frederick Augustus, a daughter of the King of Bavaria, and several other relations.
The next Saxon Prince in importance, the Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar, married a daughter of the late King William II. of the Netherlands, and has four children, the eldest of whom, Prince Charles, is not more than thirteen years old. His two sisters are married to two brothers of the King of Prussia; the eldest sister, Maria, to Prince Charles, and the younger sister, Augusta, to the Prince of Prussia. The latter royal lady, who accompanied her son this week at the important ceremony in St. James' Chapel, is at present in her forty-sixth year. Her mother, the Grand Duchess Mary of Russia, is the eldest sister of the late Czar Nicholas.
Lastly, the Dukes of Saxe-Meiningen and Saxe-Altenburg have, both of them, not many children, but numerous cousins, uncles, and aunts. One of the latter, Princess Alexandrine, now called Alexandra-Jossfowna, was married, in 1830, to the Grand Duke Constantine, of Russia, eldest brother of the present Czar.
The last branch of the four ducal houses of Saxony, the house of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha—not consisting of above a dozen members, and the head of which rules over a population of not more than 150,000—about the population of Bradford, in Yorkshire—is undoubtedly the best connected family in Europe. The reigning Duke, Ernest II., married Princess Alexandrina, daughter of the late Grand Duke Leopold of Baden; his brother is Prince Albert, Consort of the Queen of Great Britain; his eldest aunt is the divorced wife of the late Grand Duke Constantine of Russia, the elder brother of Czar Nicholas, who discarded her that he might unite himself to a Polish lady, the Countess of Grudzinska; his other aunt is the Duchess of Kent, mother of Queen Victoria; his uncle is King Leopold of Belgium. One of his cousins is King of Portugal, and another has married the daughter of a king, Princess Clementine, who followed her husband into Coburg when her father, Louis Philippe, was on the throne of France. The house of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, therefore, is nearly related to the royal families of Great Britain, of Portugal, Belgium, Russia, Holland, Baden, and most of the other reigning houses of Europe.
The present royal family of this country, members of the house of Brunswick Luneburg, trace their origin to the first Margraves of Este, who lived in the beginning of the eleventh century, and who married into the family of the Guelph, German counts, who were living in Suabia, but who had possessions in the north of Italy, then a province of the holy Roman empire.
The family, as well before as after it ascended the English throne, had continually intermarried with German princes and princesses, and with them alone; and it is consequently of pure Teutonic blood. All the matrimonial alliances, with the sole exception of this last of the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria with the presumptive heir of the throne of Prussia, were concluded, too, with the smaller princely houses of Germany.
1. Characteristics.—Europe, the least extensive of the five Grand Divisions of the globe, surpasses them all in wealth, intelligence, and general civilization.
2. Mountains.—Four great systems of mountains spread their numerous branches over this continent. The Pyrenees separate France and Spain, and extend in several parallel chains through the peninsula. The Alps are the principal trunk of the second great European system of mountains, whose branches stretch into France, Germany, Italy, Hungary, Turkey, and Greece. The Vosges, the Jura, and the Cevennes in France are its western spurs. The Alps, which extend between France and Italy, and the latter and Switzerland, send off a long southern chain through Italy, under the name of the Apennines, and stretching easterly through the country to the south of the Danube, reach the Black Sea under the name of the Balkan, and the Morea under the name of the Pindus. The highest summits are in Switzerland and Savoy. A third mountainous system is
The Alps, as seen from the Italian Plains.the Carpathian, which nearly surrounds Hungary, and extends along the frontiers of Moldavia, sending off several
low ranges into Germany. The fourth system of mountains is the Scandinavian, which traverses the peninsula of Norway and Sweden, and nowhere exceeds an elevation of 8500 feet. The following are the principal elevations:—
This table lists the elevations of the following mountain ranges: Alps, Switzerland; Pyrenees, Spain; Apennines, Italy; Etna, Sicily; Corsican; Balkan, Turkey; Pindus, Greece; Carpathian, Austria; Ben Nevis, Scotland; Snowdon, Wales.3. Valleys.—Most of the rivers are bordered by vales, which have become the seat of numerous cities and a teeming population.
4. Rivers.—The principal river of Europe is the Volga, the only stream whose length reaches 2000 miles. The Danube was long considered the largest European river; but it has a much shorter course. It rises in the Black Forest in Baden, becomes navigable at Ulm in Bavaria, passes through the Austrian empire, and separates Austria, Wallachia, and Russia from the Ottoman empire; after receiving thirty navigable streams, it enters the Black Sea by five principal mouths. The other chief rivers are included in the following table:
This table lists European rivers and their lengths in miles, including: Volga, Russia; Danube, Austria; Dnieper, Russia; Don, Russia; Rhine, Germany; Vistula, Germany; Loire, France; Rhone, France; Seine, France; Douro, Spain; Po, Italy; Thames, England; Shannon, Ireland; Tiber, Italy.5. Lakes.—The following are the principal lakes:—
This table lists the major lakes of Europe and their area in square miles, including: Ladoga, Russia; Onega, Russia; Wener, Sweden; Leman, or Lake of Geneva; Maggiore, Italy; Neufchatel, Switzerland.6. Capes.—The most northerly extremity of the mainland is North Kyn, in Finmark; Cape North is the extreme point of Mageroe, an island of Norway. Cape Skagen, or the Skaw, the northern extremity of Jutland, gives name to the Skagerack. Cape Lindesnæs, or the Naze, is the southern point of Sweden. Cape Wrath, on the northern coast of Scotland, Cape Clear, in Ireland, and Land's End, in England, are the most noted capes of the British isles. Cape La Hogue, on the northwest coast of France, Cape Finisterre, in Spain, Capes Roca and St. Vincent, in Portugal, project into the Atlantic Ocean. Cape Spartivento, in Italy, and Cape Matapan, in Greece, are the principal points in the Mediterranean.
7. Peninsulas.—Europe is much indented by arms of the sea, which form numerous peninsulas. The Scandinavian peninsula, comprising Norway, Sweden, and Lapland, is the largest; the isthmus, between the Gulf of Bothnia and the White Sea, is less than 200 miles across. The peninsula of Jutland is much smaller. In the south, Spain and Portugal form a large peninsula, with an isthmus of about 220 miles across. Italy, the Morea, joined to the
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Europe? Extent? Population? Between what countries are the following: White Sea? Gulf of Bothnia? Baltic Sea? North Sea? English Channel? Bay of Biscay? Straits of Gibraltar? Mediterranean Sea? Gulf of Venice? Archipelago? Black Sea? What two great lakes in Russia? Between what waters are the following, and to what land are they attached: Peninsula of Norway? Sweden? Spain and Portugal? Italy? Greece? In what waters are the following islands: Iceland? Faroe Isles? Orkney Isles? Ireland? Great Britain (England, &c.)? Balearic Isles? Sardinia? Corsica? Sicily? Candia? In what country is each of the following mountains: Alps? Pyrenees? Apennines? Etna? Balkan? Carpathian? Dofrafield? Describe the following rivers: Volga; Don; Danube; Rhine; Vistula; Weser; Loire; Rhone; Seine; Guadiana; Tagus. Boundaries and capitals of each political division?
LESSON XCI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Rivers? 5. Lakes? 6. Capes? 7. Peninsulas?
[begin surface 660]continent by the narrow isthmus of Corinth, and the Crimea, extending into the Black Sea, are the other most remarkable projections of this nature.
8. Seas and Gulfs.—On the northern coast is the White Sea, frozen a considerable part of the year. The North Sea, or German Ocean, lies between Great Britain and the continent. Its extent is 200,000 square miles. The Baltic Sea, between Sweden, Russia, and Germany, is 600 miles long, and has an area of 120,000 square miles. It has high tides, is exposed to violent storms, and is shallow in many places. The Bay of Biscay is an open bay between France and Spain. The Mediterranean, between Europe and Africa, is 2000 miles long, 200 to 800 wide, with an area of 1,000,000 square miles. Its highest tides do not exceed two feet. A strong current through the Dardanelles brings the waters of the Black Sea into it: at the Straits of Gibraltar, a strong central current brings the waters of the Atlantic into it, while two lateral currents pour them back into the ocean. The Black Sea is an immense lake between Europe and Asia. Including the Sea or Gulf of Azof, it covers 3000 square miles.
9. Islands.—Among the islands are the groups of Nova Zembla and Spitzbergen, in the Arctic Ocean, both claimed by Russia. They are cold, barren, and desolate, entirely uninhabited, except that there is a small Russian hunting post on the latter. They are visited in summer for the purpose of taking whales, walruses, and seals, which abound along the coast. Subterranean stone labyrinths of great antiquity have been discovered in Nova Zembla. The other principal islands are noticed in the following table :—
This table lists the principal islands of Europe and their areas in square miles. The islands listed are as follows: Great Britain, including England, Wales, and Scotland, Ireland, Iceland, Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, Malta, Balearic, and Candia.10. Natural Curiosities, Mineral Springs, &c. —There are numerous caverns, waterfalls, mineral springs, glaciers, and other curiosities in different parts of Europe, which will be particularly described in connection with the places in which they are found.
Fingal's Cave, Island of Staffa, Scotland.11. Vegetable Products. —Europe, extending from the Arctic zone to the verge of the tropics, presents a great variety of vegetable products. Far to the north, the vegetation consists only of mosses, with a few willows and other trees, which are there reduced to shrubs. In middle Europe, there are immense forests. Here all the cereal grains flourish, and here, as well as in southern Europe, are the most
Lichen.numerous and prolific vineyards in the world. In Spain, Italy, and Greece, the orange, lemon, fig, and olive reach their perfection. In general, it may be remarked that the varieties of the oak, ash, chestnut, walnut, maple, &c., while resembling those in this country, are still of different species. There are very few indigenous vegetables or animals in Europe, which are identical with corresponding species in America.
A Vineyard in the Tyrol.12. Animals.—Many of the original animals of Europe have been exterminated. The lion, tiger, and ostrich, which, doubtless, once roamed in its forests, have disappeared. Monkeys are only found on the rocky hights of Gibraltar. The wild bull is still met with in the thick woods of Russia. The moufflon is found in Greece, Sardinia, and Corsica; the ibex in Candia and the Alps; the chamois, the hunting of which is followed with ardor, is found in small flocks on the mountains of central Europe; the elk, resembling our moose, inhabits the north. Reindeer are numerous, and are domesticated among the Laplanders. The stag, fallow-deer, roebuck, wild-boar, lynx, wild-cat, weasel, pole-cat, marten, sable, genet, badger, glutton, brown and black bear, fox, wolf, jackal, hare, rabbit, squirrel, marmot, beaver, hedgehog, otter, and porcupine are found in different places. The birds
The Elk. The Wolf.are numerous and in great variety. Eagles, vultures, hawks, and owls are chiefly found in mountainous and woody regions. The lammergeyer is a large species of vulture
The Lammergeyer.frequenting the Alps. The falcon, trained to hunt game, nearly resembles our big-footed hawk. The singing birds are numerous, among which is the nightingale. Grouse, partridges, and quails are abundant. The pheasant has been introduced from Asia. The great bustard, larger than our turkey, formerly numerous, is now scarce. The stork is seen building its nest upon the houses, and serves as a scavenger in cities, as the turkey-buzzard does in our southern towns. The ortolan is a little bird highly esteemed as a luxury. Water-fowl are various and numerous. The domestic fowls, as well as the domestic cattle, mostly introduced from Asia, are the
8 Seas and Gulfs? 9. Islands? 10. Natural curiosities, mineral springs, &c.? 11. Vegetable products? 12. Animals? 13. Minerals?
[begin surface 661]same as in this country. Many of the birds, such as grouse, partridges, pheasants, quails, &c., together with the hare and rabbit, are exceedingly numerous upon particular estates or preserves, where they are protected from all but the proprietors, by game laws. The breeding of the horse, introduced from the East, receives great attention. It is curious that this animal dwindles to a pony in the northern British isles. Great use is made of the ass and the mule. The goat, in many parts, takes the place of the cow. The reptiles and insects of Europe are not very numerous.
The Shetland Pon y .13. Minerals.—Europe is less rich in the precious minerals than the other quarters of the globe; but it produces great quantities of coal, iron, lead, tin, copper, and salt. Gold, silver, platina, and diamonds are found in the Ural Mountains, silver in Hungary, quicksilver in Spain, &c. Various precious stones are also met with.
14. Climate.—In general, the climate of Southern Europe may be described as mild, and that of the North severe, with long and cold winters, and hot, but short summers. The climate of the western coast is, however, tempered by the vicinity of the ocean, and the same cause renders it liable to sudden and violent changes. That of the eastern part of the continent is rendered much colder in corresponding latitudes, by its exposure to the icy winds of Northern and Central Asia. The heat brought by the burning winds of the African deserts to the southern countries, is in general tempered by their great exposure to the sea, occasioned by their peninsular formation. The mountains of Switzerland, Spain, and Hungary also modify the character of the climate, by cool breezes over the extensive districts which they cover.
15. Soil.—The soil of Europe is various, but in general it is not naturally fertile. Industrious and skillful cultivation, however, has made it the most productive portion of the globe.
16. Face of the Country, Plains, &c.—The central part of this continent is, in general, mountainous. The whole northern part, extending from London and Paris to Kasan, and comprising the northern part of France and
Germany, the Dutch and Belgian Netherlands, Prussia, Poland, and a great part of Russia, is a vast plain, little raised above the level of the sea, but broken by some elevations. There are several high plains or plateaus in Europe, but of no great extent. The Swiss plateau, lying between the Jura and the Alps, has an elevation of from 1800 to 4000 feet. Central Spain forms an elevated table-land, 2200 feet high; and the central part of Russia forms a similar plateau, about 1200 feet high. There are no vast, unbroken plains in Europe, like the prairies of the United States, or the pampas of South America.
17. Political Divisions.—The following table exhibits the political divisions of Europe, with the religion and government of each country.
This table lists the countries and divisions of Europe, and for each country lists the area in square miles, the population, the population per square miles, the predominant religion, the capital city, and population of the capital.18. Cities.—The cities of Europe constitute a remarkable feature of the country, on account of their great population, and the superb buildings they contain, with their various institutions for the encouragement of art, literature, and science. The city of London contains a population nearly twice as large as that of any other city on the globe.
19. Distances.—
This table lists the distance in miles between London and the following cities: Paris, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, St. Petersburg, Vienna, Rome, Madrid, Athens, Constantinople, and Berne.20. Buildings.—Among the buildings of Europe are great numbers of churches of much larger extent than any in this country. There are numerous Gothic edifices, many of them now in ruins. There are castles, built by the barons of the middle ages, for the most part in a state of decay. The sumptuous edifices of kings and princes,
14. Climate? 15. Soil? 16. Face of the country, plains, &c.? 17. Political Divisions? 18. Cities? 19. Distances from London?
[begin surface 662]called palaces, are more extensive and costly than any buildings in America.
21. Industry.—Agriculture, manufactures, commerce, mining, and fisheries, are carried on in Europe with the greatest activity, skill, and success.
22. Canals, Railroads, Telegraphs.—Canals are numerous in Great Britain, France, and Holland. There are also some in other countries. Railroads and magnetic telegraphs are spread over England, and are adopted in most countries throughout the west of Europe. An electric telegraph is carried across the English Channel from Dover to Calais, a distance of twenty-one miles. There is also one across the sea from England to Ireland, sixty miles.
23. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants of Europe belong to twenty different races, but five of these comprise the great bulk of the population. 1. The German or Teutonic Race comprises the Germans, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, Norwegians, English, and a part of the Swiss : these people speak Teutonic dialects. 2. The Greco-Latin Race comprises the Greeks, Albanians, Wallachians, Italians, French, Spaniards, and Portuguese, with a part of the Swiss. 3. The Sclavonic Race embraces the Russians, Poles, Lithuanians, Bohemians, Servians, Bosnians, Dalmatians, Bulgarians, with the Wends of Prussia, the Sorbians of Prussia and Saxony, the Lettes of Russia, &c. These three races are the most numerous. 4. To the Uralian or Finnic Race belong the Finns, Laplanders, Esthonians, Magyars or Hungarians, and some small tribes in Russia. 5. The Turkish Race comprises the Ottoman Turks, or ruling people of Turkey, the Turcomans of the same empire, and several tribes often called Tartars, in Russia. Besides these, there are some smaller tribes, among which are the Gypsies, called Bohemians in France, Gitanos in Spain, and Zingeuner in Germany; they are a roving tribe, supposed to be originally from Hindostan. They are scattered all over Europe, and their number is estimated at 600,000 or 800,000. They live sometimes in tents, often in caves, or in huts half under ground, and covered with sods. They rarely pursue any regular trade, but are often jugglers, fortune-tellers, &c. They have a peculiar language, but no religion. In Spain, they have fixed abodes.
24. Religion.—There are three great systems of religious belief predominant in Europe, viz.:—I. CHRISTIANITY, of which the principal seat and center, though not its birth-place, is Europe. The Christian nations in Europe are divided into three leading sects, viz.: 1. The Greek Catholic, or Eastern Church, which prevails in Greece, part of Albania and Bulgaria, in Servia, Sclavonia,
Croatia, Wallachia, Moldavia, Russia, &c. 2. The Latin or Roman Catholic Church, of which the Pope, one of the sovereign powers of Europe, is the head. This creed is predominant in Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, Austria, the half of Germany and of Switzerland, Belgium, Poland, and Ireland, and numbers some adherents in Great Britain, Holland, and Turkey. 3. The Protestant Church, which predominates, under different creeds, in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Great Britain, Prussia, and part of Germany and of Switzerland. This faith has also numerous professors in Hungary, Transylvania, and France. Its principal branches are the Lutheran, the Presbyterian or Reformed, and the Anglican or Episcopalian Churches. MAHOMETANISM, or Islamism, is professed by the Turks. III. THE MOSAIC OR JEWISH RELIGION. There are about 2,500,000 Jews scattered throughout Europe.
King, Clergy, and Nobles.25. Government, Classes.—The governments of Europe are chiefly monarchical; and in almost every European state we find the citizens divided into four distinct classes. The first is that of the nobility, which exists in most states, with the exception of Norway, Switzerland, France, and the Turkish Empire. Nobility is, in most cases, viewed in Europe as an hereditary rank; but it can be acquired by the will of the sovereign, and, in some instances, purchased by money. The clergy form the second class of the community. The third class is that of the citizens, or inhabitants of towns, which in most countries enjoys peculiar rights and privileges. The fourth and lowest class includes the peasants, and forms the mass of the population in every country.
26. Ancient Geography.—It will be understood that geography has been a progressive science. In the early ages of the world, mankind had no just notions either of its extent or form. Homer, who flourished about 1000 B. C., may be supposed to have had as enlightened ideas of geography as were then entertained. He supposed the earth to be a vast plain, surrounded by a shoreless ocean; beneath he placed Elysium, or Paradise, and Tartarus, or hell. Above was the arch of heaven, supposed to rest on the mountains as pillars. The sun, moon, and stars were supposed to rise from the sea in the morning, and to set in it at night. It was believed that those who lived in the remote west could hear the hissing noise of the fiery orb of day as he plunged into the ocean! The Hebrew writers of the Old Testament had very limited views of geography—possessing no knowledge beyond the territory
20. Buildings? 21. Industry? 22. Canals, &c.? 23. Inhabitants? 24. Religion? 25. Government? 26. Ancient Geography?
[begin surface 663]within a few hundred miles around Palestine. The writers of the New Testament knew only the countries included in the annexed map. Thales, a Greek philosopher, had conceived the globular form of the earth, 600 B. C., and this idea was afterward familiar to learned men, but it was not established till modern times. At the commencement of the Christian Era, when the Roman Empire was at its greatest extent, and knowledge and civilization at the highest point to which they attained in ancient times, not only was the American Continent unknown, but a large part of Asia, Europe, and Africa had been unexplored. In order to understand ancient history, it will be necessary to keep in view not merely the extent of geographical knowledge at that time, but the political divisions of the earth, and the names they then bore. As a preliminary view on this point, we give a map of the World as known to the Ancients, remarking, generally, that it embraced the north of Africa, the whole of Western Asia, except the northern extremity, and the southern and central portions of Europe. In ancient geography, the word Africa has a much more restricted application than at present. Physical geography remains the same from age to age; or, if there is change, it is unimportant in a general view. The seas, the mountains, the rivers, the coasts of those portions of the earth embraced in the map, therefore, present the same prominent features at the present day, as those which marked them in the time of Cæsar, of David, and of Moses. Particular portions of the earth, also, in many cases, bear the same names now as in ancient times, notwithstanding the fluctuations of political boundaries, and the mutations and revolutions of human society. The following table will be found useful for reference:
Ancient Names. | Modern Names. |
Asia Minor | Anatolia, or Natolia, belonging to the Ottoman Empire. |
Syria | Syria. |
Phœnicia | Part of Syria. |
Arabia | Arabia. |
Armenia | Armenia. |
Assyria | Koordistan. |
Babylonia | Part of Irak Arabi. |
Media | Irak Adjemi. |
Persia | Persia. |
Parthia | Part of Tartary. |
Aria | Khorassan. |
Gedrosia | Beloochistan. |
Scythia | Tartary, Chinese and Independent. |
India | Hindostan. |
Serica | Part of China. |
Sinæ | Cochin China. |
Ancient Names. | Modern Names. |
Egypt | Egypt. |
Æthiopia | Nubia and Abyssinia. |
Numidia | Algiers in part. |
Mauritania | Fez, Morocco, and part of Algiers. |
Carthage | Carthage in ruins, near Tunis. |
Africa | Tunis and vicinity. |
Getulia | Bled el Jerid. |
Libya | Barca. |
Libyan Desert | Sahara. |
Æthiopia Interior | Ethiopia. |
Phazania | Fezzan. |
Ancient Names. | Modern Names. |
Grecia, or Greece | Greece. |
Italia, or Italy | Italy. |
Hispania | Spain and Portugal. |
Gaul | France. |
Britain | Britain. |
Hibernia | Ireland. |
Caledonia | Scotland. |
Germany | Germany. |
Helvetia | Switzerland. |
Sarmatia | Poland and part of Russia. |
Scandinavia, or Scandia | Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. |
Flanders | Belgium. |
Batavia | Holland. |
Sicily | Sicily. |
27. History—Ancient Greece.—The history of Europe begins with the settlement of Greece. It is said that, in the year 1856 before Christ, Inachus, a Phœnician adventurer, arrived with a small band of his countrymen, and made a permanent settlement upon this peninsula. At that time, Assyria and Egypt had risen to a considerable degree of civilization, while nearly all other nations were in a state of barbarism. Europe was covered with an unbroken forest, inhabited only by wild beasts, except that small bands of savages, called Pelasgians, were scattered here and there over the country. In 1556 B. C., a colony, led by an Egyptian, named Cecrops, established themselves in Attica, and here, in due time, rose the renowned city of Athens. Corinth was founded in 1520. Sparta, or Lacedæmon, the celebrated capital of Laconia, was founded by Lelex, also in 1520. Cadmus, a Phœnician, founded the city of Thebes, in Bœotia, bringing with him alphabetical writing and other useful arts, which were diffused over Greece. The history of these early periods, which we derive from the Greek writings, is obscured by fable; actual events being strangely blended with fabulous marvels, relating to gods and heroes. It is not till about the year 1000 B. C., that history becomes authentic and reliable. The Greeks spread themselves over the peninsula and the adjacent islands, and finally planted colonies in Asia Minor. This active and ingenious people steadily advanced in prosperity, and about five centuries before the Christian era, they had become the most powerful, learned, and refined of all the nations of the earth. They were divided into numerous states, and frequently engaged in violent and desolating wars with each other. In the year 480 B. C., they combined in defense of their country against Xerxes, king of Persia, who invaded their territory with an army, consisting of from two to three millions of men. This defense was successful, and the invader was driven back with humiliation, his army being dispersed, and his power broken. In the year 331 B. C., Alexander, king of Macedon, including Greece, invaded Persia, and, in the space of a few years, made himself master of the entire
Persian empire. From this time, Greece gradually declined; and in the year 146 B. C., it was conquered by the Romans, and reduced to a Roman province. Its arts, learning, and philosophy continued, however, for many centuries, to exercise a civilizing influence; and, even at the present day, the relics of its eminent writers, which have survived, impart instruction to the classical scholar.
28. Ancient Rome.—Rome is said to have been founded in the year 753 B. C., by Romulus, belonging to a Greek colony settled in that quarter. He collected together, by his policy, a considerable number of brave and daring men. By degrees, a great city rose on the banks of the little river Tiber, where the present city of Rome stands. Various tribes, some of them more civilized than the Romans, at this time inhabited Italy; but these were all gradually subdued and brought under the Roman sway. Several able sovereigns succeeded Romulus; but in the year 509 B. C., in consequence of the misconduct of the king, named Tarquin the Proud, an insurrection arose, headed by Brutus, which resulted in changing the government to a republic. From this time, the power of Rome gradually increased, until she became mistress of nearly the whole civilized world. About the year 45 B. C., the Roman republic was overturned by Julius Cæsar. Several ambitious men now struggled for the supreme power, till the year 30 B. C., when Augustus Cæsar gained the ascendency, and was declared emperor. At this period, the empire embraced nearly the whole of Europe, the northern and northeastern portions of Africa, and all Western Asia. It continued, under various emperors, for several hundred years. In the year 395 A. D., the empire was divided into the Eastern and Western. The capital of the former was at Constantinople. Its territories extended over Greece, Asia Minor, Syria, Egypt, &c. This power is often called in history the Greek Empire, and also the Byzantine Empire. The Western Empire had Rome for its capital, and comprised the larger portion of Europe; but in the year 476 A. D., it was finally overwhelmed by numerous warlike tribes from the north.
27. Ancient Greece? What of Inachus, Cecrops, Cadmus, Alexander, &c.? 28. Ancient Rome? Its origin, supremacy, and fall?
[begin surface 665]29. The Barbarians.—The people who thus destroyed the Roman empire consisted of various nations of barbarians from Norway, Sweden, Denmark, and different parts of Germany. For two thousand years prior to this event, numerous tribes from the central portions of Asia had continued to emigrate to northern Europe; some passing north of the Caspian, and others between the Caspian and Black Seas. Among these was a very numerous tribe called Celts, who settled in France, then called Gaul. Spreading in various directions, some passed into Spain, some into northern Italy, and some to England, Ireland, and Wales. Portions of these made several formidable attacks upon their southern neighbors, at an early date. In the year 366 B. C., 70,000 of them marched against Rome, and got possession of the city, excepting the Capitol. The cackling of the sacred geese in the Temple of Juno gave warning to the sentinels, as the Gauls, at night, were about to surprise this fortress. The Romans only saved their city from destruction by a heavy tribute in gold. In the year 278 B. C., an immense force, under Brennus, ravaged Northern Greece; but they were dispersed and driven back. Julius Cæsar marched into Gaul, and, after sacrificing a million of men, reduced that country to a Roman province. In Germany, the tribes were numerous, and of a warlike disposition. These bore the general name of Teutones, including various minor divisions. Besides these were the Goths, who had settled in Sweden and the vicinity; the Vandals, a kindred tribe in the same quarter; the Ostrogoths, of Austria; the Suevi, near the Baltic, and many others. These people increased in numbers and power, and, as the Roman empire became weakened, they grew exceedingly troublesome and dangerous. About the year 410 A. D., Alaric, king of the Visigoths, a people dwelling on the Danube, thrice marched against Rome, and in two instances made himself master of it. In the year
Attila.451, Attila, king of the Huns, crossed the Alps, and, advancing toward Rome, threatened that city with destruction. This was only prevented by large bribes given to the barbarian chief by the Pope. The Roman empire had been built up by making war, without scruple or mercy, on all other nations. The day of retribution was now at hand. The Romans were enfeebled by luxury, and degraded by every species of vice and corruption. The northern nations
were poor, but vigorous, daring, and warlike. Alaric and Attila had taught them the way to Rome. The rich cities and smiling valleys of Italy seemed to invite them to exchange their cold and sterile homes, with their poverty, for the boundless riches and happy climate of the south. They were not long in yielding to this temptation. Like a mighty river breaking its boundaries, they came over the Alps in a living and impetuous torrent, taking possession not only of Italy, Spain, and parts of Greece, but they swept across the Mediterranean, and settled down upon the cultivated parts of Northern Africa.
30. The Middle Ages.—The events that immediately preceded the fall of Rome were of the most terrific character. The whole of Europe seemed covered with armies of fighting men. There was, indeed, a general movement from Great Britain to the shores of China, in Asia. The lives of several millions of human beings were sacrificed in this frightful convulsion. At last, Odoacer, chief of the Heruli, a German people, was made king of Rome. The barbarians had now full possession of Italy. Roman civilization was at once extinguished. The books, paintings, statues, and works of art which the Romans had robbed from other nations, or had themselves produced, were destroyed by its rude and illiterate conquerors. The Dark Ages, or, as they are frequently called, the Middle Ages, which continued for a thousand years, now began. Kings and princes now made it their boast that they could neither read nor write. Learning was almost wholly confined to the monks. In the universal ignorance, an infinite variety of superstitions overspread the minds of men. An eclipse of the sun was thought to be a forerunner of the end of the earth; comets were deemed fiery monsters, threatening war, pestilence, and famine; and even common events were imputed to miraculous causes. The belief in witchcraft was universal. Ghosts were imagined to walk abroad at night, fairies to dance in the meadows; and every house and home was haunted by good or evil spirits. Men were tried, not by judge and jury, but by ordeals of fire and water. Judicial perjury prevailed every where. Robbery by land, and piracy by sea, were practiced by kings and nobles. Yet this page of darkness was relieved by some pleasing passages. We are told of knights and fair ladies who went forth to the fields with their falcons; knights errant traversed the country in search of adventures; the Crusades ran their wild career. The Reformation broke the spell of superstition; one by one, the modern nations of Europe were founded; and at last, about the commencement of the sixteenth century, the age of darkness ceased, and a new Era
29. The Barbarians? What of Alaric and Attila? 30. The Middle Ages? What was the state of Europe during this period?
[begin surface 666]of Light dawned upon the world. We must, however, note some of the institutions and events which stand forth prominently in the history of the Middle Ages.
31. Charlemagne.—The most remarkable man who appeared during this gloomy period was Charles the Great, or Charlemagne. He was king of France, and, by his great military abilities, became master of Germany and Italy. In the year 800 A. D., he was crowned, by Pope Leo III., Emperor of the West. He was distinguished, in an age of barbarism, for the encouragement of literature and the arts, for the founding of schools and academies, for the promotion of commerce, and the establishment of salutary laws. From him may be dated the commencement of a return to civilization. He died A. D. 814, aged 71.
32. Chivalry.—This curious institution took its rise soon after the time of Charlemagne. It consisted of various orders of knights, who were at once mounted and equipped as warriors, yet bound to the performance of certain duties, under the sanction of religion. Many of these orders, as the Knights Templars, Knights of Malta, &c., make a distinguished figure in history. The Knights Errant wandered from place to place, encountering other knights, for the glory of victory, or to relieve the oppressed, and punish the wicked. In these ages, violence, injustice, and rapine were common among the barons, who dwelt in their castles, and the knights often performed prodigies of valor in chastising these tyrants. The love of God and the ladies was the chief motto of these adventurers. At a later period, kings and princes held tournaments, where celebrated knights fought in the presence of kings and queens, and the assembled multitude. In these splendid shows, the combatants used pointless weapons; yet such was their ardor, that they often were killed in the encounters. This institution, after a brilliant existence, terminated about the middle of the fifteenth century. Its relics are preserved in monarchical countries, it being esteemed a great honor to receive a badge of knighthood from a sovereign, which is usually given for some signal service to the crown or country.
33. The Crusades.—Pilgrimages to holy places were deemed highly religious services in the Middle Ages. These became exceedingly common, especially to Jerusalem. About the year 1000 A. D., a terrific mania spread over the civilized world, from a belief that the earth was about to be destroyed. Under this panic, multitudes thronged to the Holy City, which at this time had come under the power of the Turks. These subjected the pilgrims to extortion and outrage. Peter the Hermit, a Picardian monk of France, having suffered these oppressions, returned to Europe, and, by his fiery eloquence, stirred up the people to revenge. This movement was seconded by the pope, Urban II. War against the infidels was declared; and in 1096, Godfrey de Bouillon, a celebrated general, led an army, consisting of the principal nobility of Europe, into Asia. Nothing could exceed the splendor of this proud array, except the religious zeal which animated the army, amounting to thousands. Every soldier was marked with a cross; hence these wars derived their name. After immense slaughter, Jerusalem was taken in 1099. Six crusades followed this first great movement, either for the purpose of defending Jerusalem, which was threatened by the infidels, or for its recapture, after it was taken by the famous Saladin, in the year 1187. Most of them proved unfortunate; yet such was the fanaticism of the age, that, in the year 1212, an army of 40,000 children set out for the conquest of Jerusalem. It is hardly necessary to add that they all perished, either by pirates or by shipwreck, save a few, who were carried into slavery by the Saracens.
31. Charlemagne? 32. Chivalry? What of Knights Templars, &c.? Tournaments? 33. The Crusades? How did they originate?
34. The Feudal System first appeared in an organized form in France, during the time of Hugh Capet, about 986 A. D. Its leading principle was the holding of lands on condition of rendering military service when required. Thus, the king was supposed to be lord or sovereign of the whole territory. This he parceled out to certain chiefs, barons, or nobles, on condition that they should serve him with their troops in case of need. These nobles gave occupation of their lands to the common people, upon the same terms the king had exacted of them. This military or feudal service was afterward compromised, in many cases, for formal acts of homage, some of them highly ridiculous, along with payment in money or goods. The character of some of these acts of homage is indicated by the conditions of a certain fief in England. The holder of the land was required to present himself annually, on some day of festivity, before his lord, making three jumps in the air; his mouth being open at the same time.
35. The Papacy.—This institution originated with Boniface III., Bishop of Rome, who was made Œcumenical, or Universal Bishop, in the seventh century. From this time, the Roman pontiffs gradually extended their sway, until, at last, they not only claimed to be supreme legislators in the church, but to have power over temporal kingdoms. Gregory VII., or Hildebrand, who became pope in 1073, claimed to be Christ's vicegerent, and as such, king of kings. He extorted tribute from France, Spain, England, Denmark, Poland, and Germany; requiring the kings and princes of these countries to do homage to the Roman pontiff, and to hold their thrones, as well as their territories, under his jurisdiction. Various causes contributed to break down this terrible usurpation. The final overthrow of its pretensions was effected by the Reformation in Germany, begun by the celebrated Martin Luther, in the sixteenth century. From this time, the authority of the pope has been confined to spiritual matters. He is now king of a small territory, including the city of Rome. Beyond this he has only ecclesiastical jurisdiction, and even in this his power is limited by a council of cardinals.
36. The Modern Kingdoms of Europe.—The present states and kingdoms of Europe have all originated within the period of what is called Modern History. France became a kingdom in the time of Clovis, A. D. 481; England in 827; and Spain in 1479. The power of Austria was founded in 1273; Prussia became a kingdom in 1701; Germany became a distinct monarchy in 883; Denmark about 1050; and Russia about 1050. These kingdoms were originally built up on the feudal system; but though in some cases the forms of government continue, their original character has yielded to the softening influence of modern civilization.
B. C. | |
First settlement of Greece by Inachus | 1856 |
Athens founded | 1556 |
Trojan war | 1184 |
The celebrated poet, Homer, lived | 1000 |
Rome founded | 753 |
Tarquin expelled | 509 |
Rome taken by the Gauls | 389 |
Alexander sets out for the conquest of Persia | 331 |
Greece reduced to a Roman province | 146 |
Gaul, or France, conquered by Cæsar | 55 |
Great Britain invaded by Cæsar | 55 |
Beginning of the Roman empire | 30 |
A. D. | |
London founded by the Romans | 50 |
Roman empire divided | 395 |
End of the Roman Empire in the West | 476 |
Spain conquered by the Saracens | 713 |
Charlemagne crowned Emperor of the West | 800 |
First Crusade | 1096 |
Kingdom of Portugal founded | 1132 |
Gunpowder first known in Europe | 1330 |
Printing invented | 1444 |
America discovered by Columbus | 1492 |
Beginning of Luther's Reformation | 1517 |
Telescopes invented in Germany | 1590 |
Charles I. of England beheaded | 1642 |
Prussia becomes a kingdom | 1701 |
Great earthquake at Lisbon | 1755 |
French revolution | 1789 |
Louis XVI. beheaded | 1793 |
Italy conquered by Bonaparte | 1796 |
Napoleon Bonaparte crowned Emperor of France | 1804 |
Battle of Waterloo—Napoleon overthrown | 1815 |
Death of Napoleon | 1821 |
French revolution—Louis Philippe proclaimed king | 1830 |
Belgium separated from Holland | 1830 |
Victoria proclaimed queen of Great Britain | 1837 |
Accession of Pius IX., Pope of Rome | 1846 |
Louis Phillipe dethroned—France a republic | 1848 |
34. The feudal system? 35. The Papacy? 36. The modern kingdoms of Europe? 37. Chronology of principal events?
241. Characteristics.—This kingdom is the richest and most powerful on the face of the globe. The seat of the government lies in the British Islands, London being the capital. These are called the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and, with their immense possessions in every quarter of the world, constitute the British Empire. The sovereign rules over a larger territory than any other on the globe, and over a larger population than any other, except the Emperor of China. The following table gives a view of the British Islands:
A table listing the square miles and populations of England and Wales, Scotland, Ireland, and the adjacent islands.2. Mountains.—The following are the principal:
A table listing the height in feet of the Ben Nevis, Grampians, Cumberland, and Snowdon mountain ranges.3. Rivers.—The following are the principal:
A table listing the length in miles of the Thames, Severn, Dee, Shannon, Forth, and Tweed rivers.4. Extent and Population.—The following table contains the chief portions of the British empire:
A table listing the populations of the British Islands, North America, West Indies combined with South America, Africa (at Sierra Leone and the Cape of Good Hope), East India Company's territories, Ceylon, and Australia combined with other oceanic islands.5. Chief Cities.—The chief cities of the British Isles are as follows:
A table listing the population and distance from London of London, Liverpool & suburbs, Bristol, Portsmouth, Manchester, Birmingham, Canterbury, York, Leeds, Sheffield, Oxford, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Dublin.6. Industry.—Great Britain surpasses all other countries in the extent, variety, and perfection of its manufactures. Its commerce is far more extensive than that of any other nation. Agriculture is also conducted with the utmost energy and skill. The mines of coal and iron are inexhaustible, and contribute greatly to the wealth of the country. There are other valuable minerals.
7. Government.—The government of Great Britain and Ireland is a limited hereditary monarchy. The Parliament consists of a House of Lords and House of Commons. These make the laws, which must be ratified by the sovereign. The supreme power is vested in a king or queen. The present ruler is Queen Victoria. Her husband is a German prince, Albert, who has, however, no share in the government. There are several palaces occasionally occupied by the sovereign. That in London, called Buckingham Palace, is one of the finest. Windsor Castle, a splendid pile of buildings, in the ancient style, twenty miles from London, is another favorite royal residence.
Queen Victoria.8. Navy, Army, &c.—The navy of Great Britain is by far the most powerful in the world, and consists of six hundred and seventy-one vessels of war. The army at present consists of one hundred and thirty-eight thousand men. The national debt is about four thousand millions of dollars, the yearly interest of which is about one hundred and forty millions of dollars. The annual revenue of Great Britain is about $275,000,000: two-thirds of this is derived from duties of customs and excise; the remainder from stamps, post-office, and income or assessed taxes. Of this sum $140,000,000 go to pay the interest on the national debt.
9. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants of Great Britain are divided into three classes : the nobility, which includes dukes, marquises, earls, viscounts, and barons; the gentry, including those who are distinguished for wealth,education, talents, or official station; and the commonalty, which comprises the mechanics, tradesmen, and working classes generally.
10. History.—The kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland includes England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. These several divisions anciently constituted so many different nations. Wales has been attached to England since 1283, A. D.; Scotland was united to it in 1707, and Ireland in 1800: all these countries finally coming under one legislation. Thus the present United Kingdom was formed. Though embraced under one government, the people of these four divisions have each their national characteristics. A view of each will be separately given.
Exercises on the Map.—Extent of the British Isles? Population? Population to the square mile? What sea to the east of Great Britain? What ocean to the west of Ireland? What channel between England and France? What straits? What sea between England and Ireland? What channel? Where are the Hebrides? Where are the Orkneys? The Faroe Isles? The Shetland Isles?
LESSON XCII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Extent and population? 5. Chief cities? 6. Industry? 7. Government? 8. Army and navy? 9. Inhabitants? 10. History?
1. Characteristics.—This is the principal division of the British Empire, and is renowned for its splendid cities, its high cultivation, its numerous railroads and canals, and its good institutions.
2. Mountains.—The Cheviot Hills, in the north, approaching within eighteen miles of the sea, and the Cumberland Hills, form a continuous range. The peaks of the latter, Helvellyn and Skiddaw, are 3000 feet high.
3. Valleys.—There are no valleys of great extent. The Basin of the Severn is skirted by the Welsh Mountains on the west, and some lofty eminences on the east. The borders of the rivers are generally crowded with cities, teeming with population.
4. Plains, &c.—The country in England known as the Fens, is a flat, marshy district near the Wash. Salisbury Plain is a kind of table-land, 300 feet above the level of the sea. There are numerous tracts called heaths, which first derived their name from being covered with a plant of that name. They are generally uncultivated, shrubby wastes. The downs are sterile tracts, chiefly used as sheep pastures.
5. Rivers.—The largest, though not the longest river, is the Severn, which rises near Mount Plynlimmon, in Wales, and enters Bristol Channel after a course of 200 miles. The Thames is a little longer than the Severn, and rises near the
The Thames, in London.source of that river. It it navigable from the German Ocean, where it empties, to London—sixty miles. It is quite the most important river of England. The Mersey, navigable thirty-five miles, enters the Irish Sea at Liverpool. The Dee, Trent, Ouse, and Humber, are all small streams.
6. Lakes.—These are small, but celebrated for natural beauty, hightened by cultivation, and the country-seats around. The largest are at the north, in the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland. Windermere is ten miles long, and one to two broad. Derwentwater, four miles long, is esteemed the most beautiful.
7. Shores, Bays, &c.—The coasts of England are irregular, and abound with inlets. The shores are generally rocky. On the English Channel, there are high chalky cliffs, whose white appearance gave the island the name of Albion in ancient times. The southeastern extremity, comprising the county of Cornwall, is a long cape, terminating in what is called Land's End.
8. Bays and Harbors.—The largest bay is the
Bristol Channel, twenty miles wide and sixty long. The Thames, at its mouth, enlarges to a considerable bay. The Wash is a broad bay on the eastern coast. Small harbors are numerous.
9. Islands.—The Island of Great Britain, 580 miles long, and 270 wide at the broadest part, comprises England, Wales, and Scotland. It is bounded on the north by the Atlantic; on the east by the German Ocean; on the south by the English Channel, separating it from France; on the west by the Irish Sea, separating it from Ireland and the Atlantic. The Isle of Wight is a beautiful and fertile island at the south, containing 270 square miles. Near the southern extremity are the Scilly Isles, 145 in number; six are inhabited, the rest are mere rocks. Numerous druidical monuments are found here. The islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, and Sark, lying near the French coast, are all inhabited, and belong to England; the largest is twelve miles long.
10. Natural Curiosities.—In Derbyshire there are several curious peaks and caverns. Near Buxton is a vast stalactitic cave, called Pool's Hole, furnishing alabaster and spar, which are wrought into ornaments by the inhabitants. At Castleton, in the same county, is a high rock, crowned with a castle called The Peak. Here, also, are extraordinary caverns and limestone rocks. Near by, are the petrifying wells, lead mines, and caverns of Matlock Dale. At Knaresboro', in Yorkshire, is a celebrated Dropping Well, possessing petrifying qualities.
11. Mineral Springs.—The most famous springs are those of Bath, which were known at the time of the Romans. Those of Bristol, Tunbridge, Buxton, Scarborough, Harrowgate, Epsom, Leamington, and Cheltenham, are celebrated. All are frequented by invalids, and crowds of wealthy and fashionable idlers.
12. Vegetable Products.—But few of the present vegetable products of England are indigenous. The most useful plants have been imported from the Continent. The oak is a native tree, and makes excellent timber.
13. Animals.—The wolf, bear, and some other savage animals have been exterminated. The badger, fox, wildcat, weasel, marten, otter, squirrel, and dormouse remain. The stag and fallow-deer are wholly or partially domesticated on some of the large estates. Hares, pheasants, and rabbits abound in the preserves. The domestic quadrupeds have been brought to the highest perfection by breeding and training. Eagles, hawks, and singing-birds are numerous. The domestic birds are wholly of foreign origin—poultry from Asia, the Guinea-fowl from Africa, peacock from India, pheasant from Colchis, and the turkey from America. The reptiles and insects are few. Turbot, dace, sole, cod, plaice, smelt, shrimp, &c., are found along the coast. Salmon, trout, &c., frequent the rivers. Shell-fish abound.
14. Minerals.—Salt, coal, iron, and tin are abundant. Thousands of persons are occupied in obtaining them, and many thousands more are employed in distributing them over Great Britain, and shipping them to various parts of the world. The resources of the British Isles in their useful minerals surpass those of any other country.
15. Climate.—England has an atmosphere of fog, rain, and perpetual change; yet the climate is mild. The rigors of winter, and the heats of summer, are tempered
LESSON XCIII. 1. Characteristics of England? 2. Mountains? 3. Valleys? 4. Plains, &c.? 5. Rivers? 6. Lakes? 7. Shores, &c.? 8. Bays and harbors? 9. Islands? 10. Natural Curiosities? 11. Mineral springs? 12. Vegetable products?
[begin surface 687]Our stay in London was not as long as we could have wished. Still we saw enough of it to get some very decided impressions in regard to it. Its immense magnitude, the ant-like myriads of its population produce a constant wonderment how they were all supplied with the necessaries of life. There was a much greater appearance of comfort, the people were much better habited, and there was less of beggary than I expected to see—in these respects not surpassed by New York. There is a great deal of fine architecture in the public and private buildings, a great show of wealth in the stores and in the equipages and mansions around Hyde Park. The parks are a noble feature, embracing hundreds of acres, where fashion and beauty and poverty and misfortune may equally, in the heart of the metropolis, breathe the air and rejoice in the trees and verdure of the country. St. James Park in the very heart of the town is a perfect gem. It has not the dimensions, or the drives, or the elevation, or the celebrity of Hyde Park; but its wide walks and shrubbery, and its plantations, and its water, upon which have been introduced all the varieties of water fowl, often drew me in a leisure hour to stroll through it. But there is a dark side to London, much darker than of any place I ever saw—actual and moral. There is no architecture so grand but its effect is marred by the soot which settles upon it. Every thing out doors has a dark, murky appearance, for this reason, on the brightest day; and in a rainy day t is dismal in the extreme. But the moral degradation of London is beyond conception. At night the streets swarm with the vilest characters, and render it utterly impossible for people having a regard to decency to walk out.
We left it with no regrets. A few hours on the railway brought us to Folkstone, where we embarked in the steamer crossing the Straits of Dover to Boulogne. Hardly a ripple was on the sea, and this passage, which ordinarily is attended with so much roughness and consequent sea sickness, was on this occasion as calm and as pleasant as going up the North River on a summer day. The chalky cliffs of Dover soon were out of sight, as the slaty ones of Boulogne came in view. The monument and the cathedral were visible soon after, and in two hours we were landed on the keys of Boulogne amid a crowd of English, who were expecting friends to join them at that celebrated watering place.
"Why do you remain in Paris," said I to a young Frenchman, who had come from the country, and who had no regular employment, and whose wardrobe plainly indicated that he fared badly here. "Ah, Monsieur," he replied, "Paris is the capitol of France," aud vouchsafed no further explanation. But his answer was pregnant with meaning. A Frenchman is content to drag out any kind of an existence in Paris. It is his earthly paradise. Life here, is for the most part, out of doors; and presents always a sunny aspect. Or if some of it be in doors, much of that is public—it is free to all. Not only are the parks and Gardens opened to use free of expense, but they are kept in the finest order, and every accommodation offorded to the visitor to them. The bridges which every few hundred feet span the Seine take no toll. The galleries of the Louvre, whose walls are covered with the choicest paintings, or whose rooms are filled with sculptures of the old and modern masters ; where are deposited the monuments transferred from Phebes and Memphis, sphinxes and sarcophagæ of Egyptian Kings, and statues of Apis, of dates in age long before the Christian era; The Jardin des plantes, with its collection of animated nature, from the unwieldly hippotamus to the smallest reptile; the lecture rooms of the professors in all departments of human knowledge; libraries the most replete with books, all throw back their doors and invite him to enter free of charge. But there is something beyond all this in Paris which captivates the Frenchman. It is the universal and incessant effort here made to give pleasure, to amuse, and, as they say in their language, to distract with novelty. He loves this excitement. He will work hard all day; he will leave the quiet comfortable home in the country; he will deprive himself of many things and submit to great toil, in order to go to his place of amusement in the evening, be it the salon or reception where he is expected, or the cafe where he may sip his coffee and smoke his segar, or play his game of cards or billiards, or the Chateau des Fleurs, or, if it be winter, the Valentino, where he may dance all night, or the theatre, or the ballet, or the opera. His taste is catered to, and what is a very important matter, every amusement is offered at a price, at one place if not at another, to suit his purse. He may ride out to the Bois de Boulogne—the finest promenade, perhaps, in the world—and, whether he be in his coupe hired by the month, or in a cart, a seat in which for the occasion, may have cost him half a franc—he there finds himself in company with all the world, enjoying the same scenes as Eugenie who drives along side of him with the imperial phaeton and outriders.
But it is not Frenchmen alone who are captivated with Paris. All nations and tongues are congregated there, but principally English, Russians and Americans. The number of foreigners constantly here is enormous, the number being computed at from thirty thousand to fifty thousand, two-thirds of which are English.—Americans are less numerous at this moment than usual, in consequence of the financial difficulties at home, which have taken many homeward who otherwise would have wintered here. The consequence of this influx of strangers is, that being generally persons in affluent circumstances, they are charged and pay high for what they get, and hence the prices of living and of articles of purchase have become enormously enhanced. All the more eligible localities in the city are devoted to private hotels which are rented out in floors or suits of apartments at enormous sums to the incomers : the annual receipts in this way from a moderate-sized building in a good situation ou the north side of the Seine, and not on the Boulevards where they are much larger, being from eight thousand to ten thousand dollars per year. A single man may live as he would live at a hotel in New York, for about fifty per cent more. While Paris therefore is the dearest place in the world where a person desirous of living well can reside, it probably furnishes the means of living as cheaply as any other. Either take lodgings in the fifth story or attic, or cross to the south side of the Seine, where you may for the same price have a room in the third story, dine at a restaurant for a franc and a half, as may be done, indulge in no luxuries, or if you smoke let it be a pipe and villainous French tobacco, (good segars are very dear) eschew fire, unless you would have your pocket book soon burnt through, and you may live cheaply enough in Paris,—and not otherwise.
It is a mystery to me why Americans are fond of Paris. For a visit—the novelty of once seeing the place—it is well enough; but there are our countrymen here who consider any other residence intolerable. I asked an American lady of this class why she so liked Paris. She replied, "Because I can be independent." And in a social point of view, the remark is perhaps true.—This arises from the peculiar political condition and extravagant temperament of the people. The watchwords of the Revolution of 1789 —liberty, equality, fraternity—are those of the present day; and are still to be seen in public places,
and are even on the walls of the Palace of Justice; but they have a different meaning now from what they had then. They are held on to now, because the French, under the present regime, affect to be carrying out, to their proper and legitimate results, the principles of the first Revolution. The people are tickled with the idea and are fain to believe it true. Yet while they hold on to the words and are taught that the present is a pure Democratic government, they have undergone a social revolution and have come to regard these words in another sense. Liberty has no such meaning as formerly. It does not imply freedom of political action and opinion. On the contrary it means to be free from all concerns of government, and to have license to do anything they please with themselves and their property, provided they do not meddle with private affairs. Consequently not a word can be said in opposition to the measures of Government. Two newspapers have, by imperial decrees, been suppressed within the last week for publishing what in the United States would be considered the most harmless squibs. On the other hand there is no conduct so licentious, no exhibition so immoral, no fashion so outrageous, but what may be made with perfect impunity and looked upon with indifference. The print shops have their windows filled with voluptuous prints—and men and women look at them with the utmost nonchalance.—Gardens and halls abound in every direction, where resort the courtezans and voluptuaries, and where music by the best bands is discoursed, and old men and young men join in the giddy dance and display the most fantastic figures, while all around, walking or looking on, are numbers of people—men and women, fathers and mothers, esteemed respectable. Government encourages all this, for it has its officials in the shape of policeman all around to prevent an emeute , and that is all. It is indeed painful to walk the streets of Paris by day or night and witness the guards and the bayonets which are displayed everywhere. From fifty to eighty thousand soldiers are all the time in Paris.—They are moving to and fro all the time, in squads of from fifty to a thousand men. The police are everywhere, and they too may be seen at night patrolling in large bodies up and down the Boulevards and other great thoroughfares. At first I was startled by coming in my walks very suddenly upon a soldier on horseback,—the mounted police,—behind some dark corner, waiting apparently to pounce upon some revolutionist. In order that the earliest information of any outbreak may be communicated to the government, the telegraph wires concentrate at the palace of the Tuileries. The people are thus prevented from participating in public affairs if they would. They are permitted and encouraged to act as ridiculously as they will in personal matters, and the consequence is that nobody cares about or observes what his neighbor does.
As long as the French can have their amusements, and the simplest fare, they are satisfied. They want nothing to eat and drink but bread and vin ordinaire. Tobacco is also an indispensable article, not to chew—that they never do—but to smoke. Government, consequently, ever mindful of its supremacy, takes these matters especially in charge. Bread, and wine, and tobacco are all regulated or monopolized by it.—Bread is at a fixed price—never changing. If the crop of grain is short aud the price of flour high, government steps in to pay the difference. The tobacco all goes into its shops and is sold only by its authorized agents. But cheap as these articles are furnished, they would be dear without the means to buy them; consequently government further undertakes to provide work for the turbulent masses. And I suspect that the trouble which recently occurred in New York arose from the same anti-American idea, borrowed from this side of the ocean, that government must find employment for the people. Be that as it may, Paris for such purposes is being rebuilt. Whole streets have been and are being demolished of their houses to make way for wider thoroughfares and more elegant buildings. Stupenduous public buildings have in this manner already been made. Among such are the palaces of the Tuileries and the Louvre—a work ten times the magnitude of the proposed new City Hall in New York,—the laying out and ornamentation of the grand park called the Bois de Boulogne, and the laying out and building up with a series of buildings, forming an arcade over the sidewalk of the street called the Rue de Rivoli, two miles or more in length. As long as the government is thus paternal, as some of its admirers say, it will be secure. The French notion of liberty is fulfilled, for the people have wherewithal to fill their stomachs and indulge their sensualities.
Those other words of revolution—equalit- and fraternity—are potent in France but hardly in the sense in which they were originally employed. There is outside of the Court circle a degree of equality,—an absence of ranks and castes,—a levelling of political positon , quite refreshing, after seeing the rigid demarcations which one observes in England. But there is nevertheless an universal passion for decorations,—a piece of red ribbon in the button hole or some other token, by which a distinction may be made in favor of the possessor. These things are cheap and as they confer no positive advantages, except in social position, they are not otherwise objectionable. Their passion is only equaled ny their self-conceit, which has grown enormously, and thus their ancient politeness toward foreigners is gone, and so is their politeness towards the female sex. They tolerate foreigners for their money, and they will have them know that Paris is the centre of civilization, that French soldiers can whip the world, and that all that is refined and brave is concentrated in a Monsieur. The recent commercial crisis has wonderfully puffed up their self-esteem. While all other countries have been more or less suffering from its effects France wrapped up in itself, like the silkworm in one of its own cocoons, has not felt them. The City of Lyons, from its vast silk trade was in danger, when the government, with a characteristic regard for its own safety, kept the manufactories at work and the workmen employed, by itself becoming the purchaser of the manufactories. Consequently we hear in the common circles of conversation and we see in the address of the Emperor, the reports of his ministers, and the public journals, which, however, breathe only through official nostrils, constant references to the superior wisdom with which the country has been governed and its commercial affairs administered. Foreigners therefore must understand that they are expected to admire and to praise; and they must also experience the brusqueness and rudeness of the equality of which they boast. To jostle you on the sidewalk without apology, to attempt to anticipate your seat in the omnibus, to let a lady sit on the outside in the rain when she desires one inside, are every day occurrences. It must not, however, be understood that there is no merit or civility in French society. They exist as brightly as ever; and you will find in it every virtue which can adorn human life. But it is the general aspect of which I speak, and the outside appearance which is presented to a stranger. Nor is the government to be censured in the wholesale. Although its policy and its principles of action are utterly repugnant to our views, there certainly are regulations which may well be imitated in a country like ours. What is more democratic than to open freely not the schools of primary instruction merely, but the lecture rooms of the professors in every branch of study; and to afford, without expense, to all classes of society, the means of healthful recreation? In Paris, there is no beggary. If a blind man or a cripple seek your bounty, it will be in the porch, where you are taught that the greatest of virtues is charity; or if the street, it will be in the sale of some trifle. The streets too, are kept clean. Every morning before the world is up, the streets are swept and the rubbish and filth removed from the houses. The city, albeit, many of its streets, are narrow and its houses old, always look tidy.
Before proceeding to give an account of the sights of Paris in detail, or rather such of them as may possess some interest or novelty, I will at the risk of being tedious, attempt a bird's eye view of the city.
It is difficult to give a general description of Paris, and at the same time, one succinct and
intelligible. Divided by the Seine, which is a stream about one fourth the width of the East River, it has the larger and most important portion on the North side. The river has keys along both banks, built of cut stone with roads outside, inclined sideways, to the bottom, for the passage of carts. It is spanned by twenty or more bridges, built handsomely of stone or iron, a few hundred feet apart; but it is not navigable except for very small boats, and then only as far as the island between the two hanks where the city was begun. Let us stand on one of these bridges, about the middle of the city—that called the Pont du Carrousel. Looking North, the bridge lauds on the Quai du Louvre, along which, for a length of two thousand feet, stretches the Palaces of the Tuileries and Louvre now joined together. Behind you on the South side of the river, and on your right hand, distant, perhaps, a mile, are the Palace of the Luxembourg, where the so called senate sits, and the Pantheon, an institution in its purposes, but a failure, in execution of Westminster Abbey, and where a few celebrated men—Lagrange and others, are buried : and on the key, is the Institute of France, the seat of its learning, and near it, the Mint; beyond these, is the Jardin des Plantes, and in the river is the island of the city, on which are the Palace of Justice, where the principal Courts are held, and the Church of Notre Dame, where Napoleon I. was crowned, and Napoleon III. was married, and which is founded on the ruins of a Roman temple. On your left hand, also behind you, is the Hotel des Invalides, where repose the remains of the great Napoleon, and facing the river, is the Chamber of Deputies, and further down the river, the Champ des Mars, where the Military reviews and exercises take place. So much for what you have behind you on the South side of the river. It is not the favorite portion of the city. Remains of the old noblesse may be found there, but the life, the gaity , the dissipation and the fashion of modern Paris, is in front of you on the North side of the river. Up the stream to your right on the North side, are the Hotel de Ville—the magnificent City Hall of the municipality of Paris—also, the column erected over the remains of those citizens who were killed in the revolution of 1830, and further in the same direction, on the suburbs of the city, two miles from where you stand, is the famous cemetery,the Pere le Chaise. On your left, stretching from the Tuilleries along the river are its gardens, in which on a fine day, like that on which I am now writing, are more than a thousand nurses with children; then follows the Place de la Concorde, in the centre of which stands the Obelisk brought from Thebes, in Egypt, with inscriptions made fifteen hundred years before Christ, and near it the magnificent fountains, which are always playing;and finally, the Champs Elysees, a large park, uninclosed, through which are broad avenues and where crowd the promenaders, where all sorts of sport is going on, from Punch and Judy to the Imperial Circus, and where also stands the Palace of Industry, the Crystal Palace of the French. Parallel with the river and from the Champs Elysees, on the left, to the Column of July on the right, extending along the interior front of the Touilleries and Louvre, is the Rue de Rivoli, over two miles long, one of those magnificent improvements which the present dynasty has accomplished. It forms, as it were, the string to the bow formed by the Boulevards, the grand promenade of Paris, on which are its most splendid cafes, its richest shops and its multitudinous theatres. The Boulevards form an irregular arc of a circle, sweeping round from the Church de la Madeleine, the finest building in the city, near the Place de la Concorde, through the middle of the northern portion of the city, to the column of July, on our right hand. The Boulevards, which are merely the site of the ancient fortifications of the city, form this arc by stretches of straight lines, and each has its name. They are about one hundred and thirty to one hundred and fifty feet wide. Broadway is not a circumstance to this street as regards the number of people and the life upon it. Crinoline and snow-white skirts and neat ancles and mud, and staring men and omnibuses and cabs, are here the same as in in Broadway, only much more so, except omnibuses, as to the number of which Broadway, it it must be confessed, beats any street in the world. But the fashionable turn-outs—the carriages and American horses, which are just now the rage here for private use—are not to be seen on the Boulevards, except for business. The drive for them is the avenue leading from the Gardens of the Tuilleries through the Place de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees, down the river and over the high elevation on which stands the splendid Arc de Triomphe, celebrating the victories of Napoleon, and thence above the new Ave. de l'Imperatice, three fourths of a mile to the Bois de Bologne. The Boulevards, par excellence form, as I have observed, half a circle on the north side of the Seine, half way between the river and the outer Boulevards, which form another wide street outside of the walls entirely round the city on both sides of the river. This wall which is of stone, ten or fifteen feet high, serves not the purpose of protection in war, but prevents the introduction of articles of food or manufacture without inspection at the gates or barriers as they are called,—which articles are taxed and made to yield a revenue to the city,—whose annual expenses for municipal purposes, I may observe in passing, amount to about ten millions of dollars.
I must reserve for another letter the filling up of this outline. M.
[begin surface 688]We have stopped here for a few days' recreation after our sea voyage and hurried journey from Liverpool. The place is so conveniently situated, in the midst of localities which are intimately connected with English history and literature, that it must ever be one of the most attractive spots in England. It is a beautiful town, through which flows the little stream called the Leam, from which it takes its name. It presents an aspect foreign to the general appearance of English towns, and is said to be the finest in the kingdom. It owes this distinction undoubtedly to the circumstance of its houses having all been built and the town itself laid out within the present century. Its appearance is therefore more modern than other towns, being handsomely built in modern style and with modern conveniences. Certain springs of water of some medicinal properties came into notice here about the beginning of this century, and it has in consequence since become the resort of many, both for health and pleasure. Rows of noble dwellings, large and commodious hotels, and tasteful places of public amusement have been erected and laid out, and the town itself, by the sanction of Queen Victoria, has assumed the name of the "Royal Leamington Spa." It was not, however, for the waters or the pleasures of Leamington that we came here, but to visit the scenes famous in English story and rendered classical by Shakspeare and Scott; to visit the birth-place and the resting-place—the cradle and the tomb—of the greatest genius of our race; to traverse the ruins renowned in the wars of the two Roses, and for tournaments of the Knights of the Round Tables, and the fetes of Dudley in honor of Elizabeth, and to ramble amid the beautiful scenery of Warwick, its castle grounds, and and those of Grey's Cliff, also of historic fame, but to my eyes both more attractive for their rural charms. But before giving you my impressions of these places, I must tell you somewhat of our journey here.
The voyage in the Baltic was all that we could have wished for, though somewhat longer than usual, owing to the new and untried machinery with which she had just been renewed. No gales or storms occurred, with the exception of a fresh breeze on the second day out, sufficient to let us feel the effects of a cross sea for a few hours, is the way in which they are generally made most sensible to new voyagers. We had abundant opportunity to enjoy the exercise and amusements of the deck by day, and the spinning of long yarns by night, in the spacious saloons of our noble ship. Our captain declared it to be the smoothest of ninety-four passages which he had made across the Atlantic in that vessel. We had a beautiful run, for half a day, close along the coast of Newfoundland, distinctly seeing objects on the shore and passing Cape Race within a mile or two. No fogs or mists as usual on that rock-bound land prevented us from having a view of its dreary hamlets and plains. Still it was, notwithstanding its rugged and barren appearance, pleasant to look upon, as the last of America which we should for a long time, if ever, see. The declining sun flung his robe of gold over the bleak hills, and as they faded from our view, we felt as if we had indeed left a land that was to us all glorious. We kept our course well to the North, with a man on the lookout, in the hopes of meeting the telegraph fleet, whose attempt to lay the wire, as it afterwards appeared, was even then an unsuccessful one. We passed Cape Clear in the night, and in the morning, after running along the Irish coast for a few hours, crossed the channel to the coast of Wales, in view of the peak of Snowden, just as the night closed in. The next morning found us in the Mersey, in one of the thickest and most impenetrable fogs I ever encountered. The ship, however, was going ahead—the pilot giving his orders from the wheel-house and skilfully manœuvering the ship through the fleets of vessels at anchor in the river. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th the machinery stopped, and almost instantaneously, like the rising of a curtain at a signal, the mist rose, and Liverpool, abreast of which we were, burst upon the view, presenting a scene of animated natnre , so much in contrast with the solitudes of the ocean which we had just been traversing, as most agreeably to surprise and interest us.
I confess I was quite unprepared for the picture before us. The vast dockage on a narrow river where the tide rises twenty feet or more, formed by a series of docks for an extent of four or five miles along the river, many of them capable of holding as many ships as the Atlantic Deck, and all built of stone in a most substantial manner—and crowded with vessels from every clime; the numerous steamers, large and small, riding at anchor or plying up and down the river; the landing stages crowded with people; the spacious warehouses and the spires of a well built city containing a half a million of people; the activity and bustle upon either side of the river, and on the wharves and docks, presented the proofs of a much more important and prosperous city than I had supposed Liverpool to be, notwithstanding the many favorable descriptions which I had heard of it. A few minutes detention only, by very polite officers of the customs, and we were once more on firm land. I was not less gratified with the interior of the city. Besides the wet docks to which I have referred, and in which the shipping is kept afloat during the ebbing of the tide, by means of closed gates, There are dry docks, or, as they are called here, graving docks, on both sides of the river. There are, on the Liverpool side, at one place, six built side by side, all opening into one wet dock. In one of them at the time of our visit, was the somewhat celebrated iron steamer, Great Britain, which went ashore a few years since at Dundrum Bay, on the coast of Ireland, and whose mishap gave rise to a sharp personal controversy in the newspaper, between Dr. Cox and Capt. Haskins. She had now just returned from Australia and appeared none the worse for her misfortune. Intending to remain but a short time in Liverpool, we visited a few of the more important places, and among them St. George's Hall, a noble pile of modern architecture in the Corinthian style, devoted to the use of the authorities of the city, to public meetings, and the courts, both of civil and criminal jurisdiction. The building is over four hundred feet long on its east side, and the columns extend the whole length of this facade, as well as on the other fronts. I made my way across the spacious hall devoted to public meetings, one hundred and seventy feet long and seventy-five feet high, to the court rooms, to witness for the first time the dignity of the law in gowns and wigs. I failed however to experience any greater veneration for the bench and bar by reason of what I saw. In one of the law courts they were engaged in a jury trial upon a case involving the obligations of common carriers. The
judge appeared to have plenty of room on his elevated seat, but everything else was cribbed and confined. The lawyers were in a kind of stall, in front of the judge, about twelve or fourteen feet square, the jury occupied another box elevated, on the side, and the witnesses on examination, a third, also elevated, on the opposite side. The audience, which was numerous, was ranged in seats on the fourth side, raised one behind the other like an amphitheatre. The lawyers, like gladiators, being in the pit, and the judge, jurors, witnesses, and audience, as spectators looking down upon them. There was, however, no strife, but a very commonplace examination of the witness. In one of the Assize Courts, there was a prisoner on trial for stabbing. The prosecuting counsel opened the case to the jury in a very free and easy conversational tone, but very neatly and succinctly. Feeling no great interest beyond that afforded by a few minutes study of the courts, I soon left. At every step you are reminded of power and regulation. The police of Liverpool are, however, courteous; they are dressed so as to be designated and appear to be intelligent and respectable. I observed that there were no Irishmen among them, and to a remark which I made to a citizen on the exclusion, he replied very decidedly,—"An Irishman, sir, is a bad trade in this country." The police seemed to have enough employment to answer the inquiries of passers by. While in the efficiency of this branch of public accommodation Liverpool exceeds New York and Brooklyn, she is less fortunate in her means of transportation across the river. The ferry boats—the ferriage by the way, in which, is one penny, or two cents of our currency—are small, and in shape and appearance, resemble the better class of small-sized tug-boats in New York, with not much better accommodation or protection from the weather. The cabins are small and below deck. But the landing stages, as they are called, are magnificent. One just completed, several hundred feet long, has cost the sum of seven hundred thousand dollars. It is a large float on which large refreshment and waiting rooms are erected and is connected by several bridges with the wharf to which they are attached by joints something after the manner of our ferry bridges, enabling the float to rise and fall with the tide.
Taking the London and Northwestern Railway, from Liverpool, we reached Manchester, the great mart of English industry in an hour and a quarter; and partaking of the feeling which had drawn thousands of strangers there, we spent our leisure time at the Art Treasures Exhibition. Differing in its design from the Crystal Palaces which had preceded it in other cities, this exhibition was devoted exclusively to the fine arts,—being a collection of the finest paintings, sculptures and other works of genius in the different galleries in the United Kingdom, bringing to view the past as well as the present, and uniting in one galaxy all that is beautiful in art of the old and modern schools. Buckingham Palace and Hampton Court have loaned their treasures, and the example of the sovereign has been followed by the nobility and gentry throughout the country. The building in which these treasures are contained is over seven hundred feet in length, and is made of glass and iron exclusively, and yet large as it is, every portion of it is covered with paintings or other works of art. Of these I will attempt no description, much less offer any criticism. I am no connoisseur. There were specimens of the great Italian, Spanish and Dutch masters for the first time seen by me. One feels bewildered in such a scene of genius and art, especially when thrown for the first time in its midst. Yet to the mere amateur the exhibition had an historical interest.—It was especially rich in portraits. The Madonnas of Raphael, the landscapes of Claude Lorraine or Salvator Rosa, the home views of Teniers or Gerard Dow, were objects of study;—but the portraits by Holbein, and Titian, and Rubens, and Van Dyck, and Kueller, and a host of others, while they were grand as works of art, gave you also the form and feature—the very lineaments of those whose lives have become familiar to us by their historical importance. There were by these eminent hands the life-looks of Henry VIII. and his different queens, Philip II. and the Duke of Alva, and Spinola and Ignatius Loyola, Charles I. and Henrietta, William and Mary, Sir Isaac Newton and sir Christopher Wren, John Hampden and Cromwell, Milton and Pope, and Coleridge fat and jolly—all the beauties, so-called, of the Court of Charles II. There they were just as they appeared to the painter and to their generation,—real personifications of the glory and crimes and frivolity of the world. The only portrait of an American which I saw in the exhibition was that of Prescott. There was no Franklin—no Washington.
To this exhibition all England was wending,—the whole people, nobility and all, and kings and princes from other countries. It has been eminently successful thus far, and reflects great credit upon its projectors and the enterprising gentlemen of Manchester, who pledged their private fortunes for the safe return of the treasures to their owners. Of the thousands of paintings there were a few which one might covet even though he broke the commandment. His own chateau by Teniers, containing portraits of himself and family, and a landscape with cattle on a rising ground, by the same hand, were particularly such to me.
We hurried away from this charmed spot, hardly looking, for want of time, at the paintings by the modern artists; and as the day waned took our seats for Birmingham, and thence through Coventry to Leamington by railway, which route in leaving and entering Manchester is elevated as high as the tops of the houses. What a contrast here again presents itself.—From the contemplation of the conceptions of genius, beautifully executed and perfect in form and life-like in coloring, we were carried by the railway into a region which resembled Erebus more than any other spot on earth, and which let us down from the regions of the imagination where we had been wandering, to the practical and murky workshops of modern utility! We were in the Black Country. No vegetation was to be seen, except here and there a spot snatched from the general purpose for a garden by some fortunate proprietor. Hills of refuse thrown up from the mines were spread all around, and there were furnaces without number, for miles and miles, belching forth black smoke by day—made lurid by flames by night. Here women dressed in men's clothes do men's work, showing a social degradation as frightful as the physical appearance of the country. As the night grew dark the flaming columns were seen on every side shooting up to the sky, while a dense black cloud hung hovering over all. The inhabitants of this district, which is thickly populated, can realize no horrors on earth. Their own homes present all that is direful. We cared not to stop at Birmingham, the depot of all this frightful work, but pressed on to enjoy the green fields and tasteful gardens about Leamington and to have a Sabbath rest.
It were to be wished that the citizens of every city and town of our country could see the Jephson gardens at Leamington. They would have a notable hint how much beauty and how much pleasure can be purchased and perpetuated for a trifling expenditure, and how their towns can be ornamented and rendered not only attractive to strangers, but a source of constant happiness and good influences to the hearts and minds of the people. Here was a spot of not over eight or ten acres in extent, inclosed with an iron railing on the main street, having an entrance, with two small tastefully built lodges on either side, and planted with
trees and shrubs in a manner which the English alone seem to understand how to do. A moment after entering, brod gravel paths shaded with trees and lined with shrubs and flowers, invite you in every direction,—here to an artificial lake—yonder to a pavilion or a piece of of statuary. As you wander you find yourself upon a large piece of open greensward, as soft as velvet to walk upon. This is the archery ground. You cross it and find yourself on a slope which runs down to the Leam, thickly wooded, with winding walks through an apparently wild shrubbery, with grottoes and rock beds, and then a maze, from which came the joyful laugh of children following out its clue. In this delightful spot, thrown open on Sunday after morning service, the people of the town were walking, or sitting on the seats under he trees.
Amidst such beauties of nature, directed and regulated by the hand of taste, how could there be other than an enjoyment as pure as the scene itself. But with all its freshness and neatness and embellishments, Leamington has been merely our sallyport from which to make excursions to the places which I have already named.
Kenilworth is a fine pile of ruins. Its dismantled walls still indicate their historical character, though two centuries have elapsed since they were left uncovered by Cromwell's soldiery. The tower, called Cæsar's Tower, possessed in turn by the houses of York and Lancaster, still stands almost defiant of time and storm; the walls of the banqueting room with its large fretted windows–in good preservation—where were entertained the Knights and ladies who attended the tilts and tournaments, and are still upright.
In the interior of this great hall however was growing an old hawthorn fresh and vigorous as though two hundred years were not its age, and yet it could not have been far from it. All over the walls creeps the ivy not less old. The effect of this shrubbery within and without, covering and twisting around those Gothic doors and windows is picturesque in the extreme. We climed to the top of the donjo, amid the hawthorn and ash, and obtained a fine view of the park and the site of the lake—now a fine meadow, and the plaisance, now an orchard. The only portion of the castle inhabited—which by the way covers a space of some seven acres—is the gateway, which is in good preservation. It is surrounded by hedges of holly of different varieties—the hedge hog, silver edge, yellow edge, and other variegated species,—five I counted, and all of great age, but well trimmed and as vigorous and thrifty as if not over twenty years old. The proprietor, the Earl of Clarendon, who carefully preserves the ruin, has also embellished the ground with new plants, of which I noticed the Chili-pine and Deodar-cedax, which appeared quite hardy. This is the first castellated ruin which I have seen, and connected as it is with the scenes which captivated my youthful fancy in the pages of Scott, it is not likely that I will soon forget it.
About a mile from Warwick is Guy's Cliff, a residence of romantic beauty on a steep bank (hence its name) on the west side of the Avon. Here Guy of Warwick spent the remnant of his days in penance. It is now the seat of the Hon. Mr. Percy.
A more beautiful spot could not be imagined, connected with one so secluded and venerable. As you ride along the road you first catch a view of the house three or four hundred yards distant, through a vista opened through a plantation of fir trees of great age, directly in front. Thrown back at the end of this avenue the house appears more distant perhaps than it really is. You pass, however, beyond, and turning into a path which leads you by a rustic bridge over the Avon, you come to an old mill, embedded in trees—with, perhaps, as there was when we were there—a pic-nic party pleasantly enjoying themselves in the welcome shade, and from this point a prospect presents itself of the beautiful in rural scenery not to be surpassed. There winds the Avon through the grounds the sun beams dancing on the meadows, on the same level as where you are standing, while on the opposite side of the stream is the wooded cliff, in the midst of which is the house, carried down to the very brink of the stream, and mantled with ivy. The mill is at work, the children are gambolling on the sward around you, the river comes smilingly by your feet, and before you, over the stream, is the mansion, but homelike, for it is comparatively small.
What surprises one in England is how each scene presents its separate attractions. Time and labor, and variety of taste have combined to invest each spot with peculiar interest. But of the different places which I have yet seen, Warwick Castle has made the deepest impression on my mind. As a castle, as a well preserved specimen of mediaeval architecture, it is said to be one of the noblest in the country. Along its base, too, flows the Avon, and from the bridge which crosses this stream on the public highway is to be obtained, perhaps, the best view of the castle with its towers. It is the residence of the present Earl of Warwick, and is beautifully furnished and embellished, with all that taste can devise or art invent. There is a magnificent collection of pictures by Van Dyke and Rubens, Salvator Rosa, and others. The portrait of Ignatius Loyola, by Rubens, at the Manchester Exhibition was from this collection. Here is Van Dyke's celebrated painting of Charles I on horseback, attended by his equerry. There is also a library—an armory—a gallery stored with busts and curiosities—noble rooms furnished some in the antique and some in the modern style. But nothing of all this struck me so forcibly as the beauty and magnificence of the approach to the castle, and the grounds connected with it. The castle adjoins the old borough of Warwick, through whose gates the traveler passes. Close to the walls of the castle a large flaming hand-bill, printed in bright red colors, of Clark and Co's. Great American Circus, was posted, inviting the people to the exhibition. As we entered the gates we found ourselves in a road cut out of the solid rock for a distance of several hundred feet, completely shaded with trees and the sides covered with ivy and evergreens.
At the end of this we emerged into an open space beautifully planted, presenting a view of the gateway leading into the outer Court, and where, on our return, we took a lunch somewhat hurried by the entrance of the Duchess de Montpensier and suite. The inner court attained, the scene was still more beautiful. Greensward and flowers, with gravelled walks occupy the inclosed space. The entrance to the castle of modern fashion is opposite; on either side are the great towers, which give character to the pile.
But how can any pen do justice to the grounds in the park. I know not that there is any scene on earth to surpass it. Mount Lebanon undoubtedly in the age, and perhaps number of its cedars, may exceed it—but then the holy hill wants what this has, the undulating ground, the quiet stream winding through it, the variety of plantation, the green sward—so soft that we laid ourselves down upon it, and the embellishments of statuary. The cedars of Lebanon alone of Warwick are worth a visit across the Atlantic for the admirer of nature once to see. Two of them, the oldest in Europe, are five hundred years old. They are close to the Castle walls between them and the river. But through the grounds there are several hundred of them over two hundred years old. There they grow in the greatest luxuriance in groups, and in single trees, throwing their gigantic arms out horizontally on every side. In looking at them one can realise the scene portrayed by Martin in his
[CONTINUED ON 2D PAGE.] [begin surface 690]scene of the hanging gardens of Babylon. Interspersed was a great variety of splendid evergreens, hollies from thirty to forty feet in height, evergreen, oak, lignum vitae, cypress and yew, besides the beech and other deciduous trees. In the green-house is the celebrated Warwick vase, considered the finest specimen of Roman art in marble yet brought to England. It is twenty-one feet in circumference. In the recollection of scenery such as this, one cares not to speak of what might otherwise be worth a note, and what at all events, the porter's wife impresses upon you as you pass the lodge. She shows the porridge pot of Guy of Warwick, who stood eight feet eleven inches in his stockings, and whose arm, which she also exhibits, weighs over one hundred pounds. Guy's walking stick is about the length and weight of a chestnut rail in an ordinary farm fence.
No person who understands the language in which Shakspeare wrote will fail to make, when possible, the pilgrimage to Stratford. The old town as yet is unaffected by the improvements of the day. No railroad disturbs its quiet. You pass along its silent streets, with its antiquated houses, and at length you are pointed to a small, low, timber framed building on which is inscribed, "The immortal Shakspeare was born in this house." It is the middle one of these into which the building has been divided, about twenty feet wide, two stories high of less than seven feet each, with a wide short window in each in front. You enter at once by the street door into the main room, the floor of which is paved with small stones. A large fire place is on the right hand and a door opposite to you leads into the kitchen from which a dark, narrow, winding staircase conducts to the chamber above, where, it is said, the poet was born.
How many thousands of all ranks have climbed that passage to pay their homage to the mind which entered upon its mortal career in that room. The walls and ceiling are covered with their names,—for the most part very finely written,—and scarcely a place is left for other names. Like as in old burying grounds the remains of the later dead are deposited in the same spot where older ones have been interred, so more modern names have been written over earlier autographs on these walls. The present crowds here as in other instances upon the past. Thus Washington Irving's name, which the old lady in charge of the house said was formerly on the side of the chimney, has disappeared. Sir Walter Scott's, which has been cut upon the window pane, remains uneffaced for the reason that it cannot well be obliterated while the glass remains. Among the more recent names we deciphered that of Harriet Beecher Stowe. Kings and princes, men of science and letters have been proud to leave their mark here, and we modestly followed their example.
Yet strange as it may appear there is not even a tradition that Shakspeare was born in this room. There are other rooms in the house which have equal claims to the honor as far as anything positive is known or has been handed down to us. Even the fact that he was born in the house is conjectural—a mere tradition, slightly sustained by two well authenticated facts—that the house was in the "tenure and occupation" of John Shakspeare, the poet's father in 1596,—some thirty years and more after his birth, and that it remained in the possession of his sister's family—the Harts—until the beginning of the present century. As I have already stated the building has been converted into three tenements. That in which Shakspeare was born was for a time used as a butcher's shop. Another now is a public house with the Ledaic title of the "Swan and Maidenhead." The property has been purchased and is now held by a committee as trustees for the nation at large—for the world.
But whatever of skepticism we may indulge in as to the spot where he was born, we can entertain none as to that where the bard's bones lie interred. The blessing and the curse alike inscribed on his gravestone have seemingly deterred the hand of the careless.
"Blest be the man that spares these stones, And curst be he that moves my bones "There they rest in peace in the Church of the Holy Trinity of Stratford—a noble structure and worthy mausoleum of the greatest dead. An avenue of Linden trees, whose thick dark foilage imparts a still deeper shade to the shadow in the walk conducts to the portal. The lofty spire, the cruciform roof, the old Norman tower, the beautiful windows in the clerstory of the nave, as they appear on your approach, over and above the trees, have prepared you somewhat for the interior; but your expectations are more than realized. Modern taste has carefully renewed and restored its antiquity. Heavy pillars supporting pointed arches divide the aisles from the [illegible]ave and as you walk up the latter—for you have entered at the end opposite to the chancel—and look upwards and around you, the carved timber roof—the stone pulpit—the graceful tracery of the windows above—the lofty chancel—the old choral stalls, all attract your attention. Beyond the chancel is a chapel in which are splendid monuments—with effigies of white marble resting on arches supported by Corinthian pillars, and armorial bearings—of men forgotten save that their names get some remembrance because they are within the halo of Shakspeare's tomb. On the left hand side of the chancel is the monument of Shakspeare fixed on the wall—a simple bust—said to be a resemblance to him. "Stay passenger; why goest thou by so fast, Read if thou canst, whom envious death has past." Beneath your feet are the gravestones of Shakspeare, Anne Hathaway and other members of his family, covering their mortal remains.
Of the other tombs there is one of John-A-Combe, the usurer, who is immortalised in ridicule by the bard. The clerk of the parish, who opened the church to us, informed us that Richard H. Dana, who visited this place a short time ago, claimed descent from John-A-Combe through his mother—a claim which one could think would not been made.
In the vestry room of the church there are other monumental tablets. The sublime and ridiculous are, however, here, as elsewhere, connected together, and I could not help transcribing at length an inscription illustrating the adage in connection with the great monument in the Chancel. It is the epitaph of one Richard Hill. It is particularly rich, as showing the joyful escape of the deceased from his earthly trouble—his two wives—and that though a tailor he would not cabbage. It reads thus:
"Two matrones of good fame he married in Gode's feare, And now releast in joi he reasts from worldlie sorrow. Here lieth intombed the corps of Richarde Hill, A woollen draper being in his time, Whose virtues live, whose fame dooeth florish stil, Though he desolved be to dust and slime. A mirror he and paterne mai be made Ror such as shall suckcead him in that trade. He did not use to sweare to gloze eather faigne, His brother to defraude in bargaininge. He would not strive to get excessive gaine In any clothe or other kind of thinge. His servant I this truthe can testifie, A witness that beheld it with my eie."The drive back to Leamington took us by Charlecote Hall, a fine old mansion and specimen of the Elizabethan style of architecture. Herds of deer were browsing in the park around it, reminding us that it was here that Shakspeare was tried for deer killing before the proprietor, Sir Thomas Lucy, the justice, whom he has immortalised as Justice Shallow. The whole scene was particularly pleasing, exhibiting an old English mansion in all its glory. M.
We noticed briefly the first volume of this very important work recently. We have received the second volume. The work cannot be passed by with a few general remarks. It is not only rich in the various and exciting adventures which constitute the chief popularity of the most popular works of travel, but is distinguished by a scientific accuracy and exactness equal to the most grave and precise geography.
It was on the 24th of March, 1850, that our traveller, accompanied by Dr. Overweg, who during a momentary hesitation of Dr. Barth, occasioned by domestic considerations, had volunteered in his place, set out from Tripoli to Mourzouk, the point where the exploration of the country was to begin by the pursuit of a new route into Central Africa.
The principal feature in the road to Mourzouk is the elevated desert steppe called El Hammada, which stretches east and west with a breadth of 130 or 140 miles, and a height above the level of the sea of more than 1,600 feet in some places. In this parched region animal and vegetable life seem almost extinct, except in a few green spots, where the rains which fall in occasional storms have accumulated and allowed small patches of vegetation to spring up, which afford sustenance to the camels of the caravans. In order to take advantage of these, the rate of travelling is, contrary to what a stranger might have expected, considerably reduced. Before reaching the Hammada our travellers had averaged nearly two miles and a half an hour over more difficult ground, while here, although it was level and open, the pace rarely reached two. The wider the ground, the more the camels disperse and straggle, instead of preserving a straight line, and consequently the very circumstances which might be thought favorable to the acceleration of a journey really tend to retard it. Over this elevated plain passes all the traffic between Tripoli and Central Africa. It may be some illustration of its extent, that one of the few living creatures in the desolate region, a small green bird called "Asfir," subsists entirely upon the vermin which it picks from the feet of the camels as they pass. After seven days' march through the Hammada, Dr. Barth descended from the plateau through a rough winding pass of sandstone, so black that at first sight any one would have taken it for bassalt , to a sandy waste in which was the object of anxious hope to man and beast—El Hasi (the well)—the great watering place of all the caravans by this road. There are several wells, in all of which the water is seen bubbling up and constantly at the same level. By the side of one of these the travellers pitched their heavy Tripolitan tent, and enjoyed the luxury of "being able to stretch themselves without being covered with sand." A couple of days' rest was imperiously demanded, the people being all greatly fatigued; and Dr. Barth's readers have profited by the delay in a colored lithograph from a sketch which he made of the scene—a comfortless one enough for a haven of rest.
The elevation of this important halting-place is fixed by Dr. Overweg at 606 feet, and it is here that the dominions of Fezzan commence, and the population becomes decidedly black. The capital Mourzouk, is situated on another plateau, nearly as high as the Hammada, and approached by even more difficult defiles. The travellers reached it on the 6th of May, and remained there till the 13th of June, while making preparations for carrying out their more extended plans. They were anxious to visit Air, or Asben, a country never trodden by any European foot, which lies six or seven degrees to the west of the direct road between Mourzouk and Bornou. There was great difficulty in carrying out this scheme. The chiefs of Ghat—a portion of the race called by the Arabs 'Tuarick,' although they term themselves 'Imoshagh'—were negotiated wlth for the purpose. These Imoshagh are described by Dr. Barth as a sort of rural aristocracy, something like that of the ancient Spartans. They are the descendants of the ancient Berbers, which are mentioned under the various local names of Libyans, Numidians, LibyPhœnicians, Gætulians, &c., by Greek and Roman writers, and formerly covered the whole of Northern Africa. They did not, however, then extend to the very border of the naked desert, and were bounded on the south by a region occupied by Ethiopian races; but in the first half of the eleventh century a numerous immigration of Arab families expelled the Berbers. These, flying southwards, fell upon their southern neighbors, and in some instances reduced them to a condition of prædital servitude. The Imoshagh thus govern the Imghad, a race of a much blacker skin and a different language, whose inferiority is marked by their not being allowed to wear any showy dress, carry an iron spear, or wear a sword. Unfortunately, the ruling class derive a revenue not only from the labour of their dependents, but also from levying a toll upon the various caravans which pass through their country, and, the article of slaves forming a principal part of this traffic, the jealousy of the Ghat chiefs was naturally excited by the untoward production of a letter from the British Government to one of their body, in which direct mention of the abolition of the slave trade was made. They at once refused to execute the agreement which they were on the point of signing; and while the mere fact of making overtures to them excited the irritation of another, and in Dr. Barth's opinion, more powerful protector, one Mohammed Boro, a man of great influence in Central Africa, this blunder effectually put a stop to all chance of rendering them sincere friends. Mohammed Boro, however, who, with the imposing title of "Lord of the Whites," resided in Agades, and had also a home in Sokatoo, and many connexions throughout Negroland, was a really formidable character. Disgusted with the discovery that his importance was not appreciated, he flew into a passion and told the travellers openly before all the caravan that he would take care they should be attacked on the road by some of his people, a promise which was faithfully fulfilled.
From Mourzouk to the oasis of Ghat the route has a westerly direction, but from that point to Agades, the capital of Asben (which is placed by Dr. Barth in lat. 17° N., long. 8° E,) there is a general bearing southward, with only occasional deviations towards the west. The important point in African traveling is, of course, to secure a sufficient supply of water and pasture for the camels. This is effected by keeping as much as possible along the 'wadys,' or river beds.
When rain falls on the elevated plateaux of these regions it is generally in such abundance that the depressions of the ground are rapidly filled, and an overflow takes place which forms the beginning of a broad and shallow torrent.
All along the course of this there will consequently be found some scanty stock of vegetation on which the camel feeds, and here and there pools which sometimes assume the magnitude of lakes, while beyond the limits of the wady nothing meets the eye but the parched surface of the desert. The skilful caravan guide shapes his course as to retain these advantages as long as possible, and to achieve the passage from one wady to another, where the pursuit of his route renders it necessary, in as short a space as he can.
In tropical Africa, however, the rainfall is so great that sometimes the wady is converted into a furious torrent which sweeps away the traveler. By one of these sudden storms the party nearly lost their lives, although, by a singular turn of fortune, the danger which they only just escaped was probably the means of saving them from destruction. It was only two or three days after losing a considerable part of their property by the hands of Mohammed Boro's countrymen, and while waiting for the restitution of the camels, which had been promised by a powerful chief whose friendship they had secured, that they encamped on an elevated in the middle of one of these watercourses:
'We had no antecedents from which to conclude the possibility that in this region, a valley more than half a mile wide might be turned in 24 hours into a stream violent enough to carry away the heaviest things, not excepting even a strong tall animal like the camel; and it was with almost childish satisfaction that in the afternoon of Saturday, we went to look at the stream, which was just beginning to roll its floods along. It was then a most pleasant and refreshing sight; the next day it became a grand and awful picture of destruction, which gave us no faint idea of a deluge. • • • Half an hour after midday the waters began to subside, and ceased to endanger our little island, which, attacked on all sides by the destructive fury of an impetuous mountain torrent, swollen to dimensions of a considerable river, was fast crumbling to pieces, and scarcely afforded any longer space enough to hold our party and our things.'
At this very time a large number of the inhabitants of the country, who had assembled to celebrate a marriage in a neighboring village, appeared on the shore of the wady. They came prepared to make a last effort to obtain possession of the travelers' remaining property before an escort should arrive from Annur, the friendly chief above spoken of. The flood had, however, served as an effective barrier for the preceding night, and now, just as it was beginning to abate and the banditti saw their prey within their grasp, the escort came into view, and the disappointed robbers reluctantly retired. In African adventures a man's foes are very often those of his own household. The plot against the travelers had been matured in the caravan itself, and the afternoon before the incident just related, an attendant of Dr. Barth, who had insolently squatted himself upon his carpet, on being requested by the Doctor to move replied coolly that the next night he should himself lie upon the carpet, and its owner at the bottom of the wady.
It is by mere accident, Dr. Barth says, that Agades has not attracted as much interest in Europe as its sister towu , Timbuctoo. It is said to have been once as large as Tunis, and has from very ancient times enjoyed a kind of protection, like Elis❙ in antiquity, from its commercial importance as a point or rendezvous between nations of the most different character, and having the most varied wants. Mohammed Boro, the merchant whom Mr. Richardson had so unfortunately offended, had been ill with fever since his arrival at Agades, Dr. Barth took the opportunity afforded by the circumstance, and endeavoured to recover his good opinion by a friendly visit. The oxperiment perfectly succeeded. The haughty trader received him in a friendly manner, and when he left accompanied him a long way down the street. This 'Lord of the Whites' rejoiced in no less than 50 sons, all of whom had families; but in spite of domestic and commercial cares—for he was regarded as the wealthiest merchant in Sokatoo. Dr. Barth found him in the year 1854 preparing for another pilgrimage to Mecca. With the important exception of 'Lord of the Whites,' he held no political influence at Agades; but his wealth and intelligence and his wide commercial conuexions appear to have given him great power, similar to that possessed in analogous cases in more civilized countries. But the most curious example of the manner in which a monopoly of ability to minister to the ordinary requirements of society always confers influence is to be found in the circumstance that petty chieftains of Central Africa generally have for their Prime Minister an 'enhad,' or blacksmith. Indeed, the Arabs in Timbuctoo give the confraternity of smiths generally the name of 'mallem,' while the most expert female artificer in leather, who enjoys above all others the confidence of the chief's wife, is honoured with the title of the 'mallema.'
Agades was, iu the opinion of Dr. Barth, a joint settlement made in remote antiquity by five of the Borber tribes, whose names are yet preserved in the different localities of the town. in the earlier part of the 16th century, however, the great conqueror Haj Mohammed Askia expelled the Berber population and established a colony of his own people (the Soughay nation).—This accounts for the character of the language, which is nearly identical with that of Timbuctoo; although that a considerable portion of the Berbers remained behind, and were amalgamated with the conquering race, is evinced both by the multitude of Berber words which are intermixed with the Soughay, and by the appearance of the population, in which the Berber type obviously reappears, especially among the women. At one time the whole town had a circuit of about three miles and a-half, and may have contained a population of 50,000 inhabitants. The numbers are at this time are not more than 7,000, and the inhabited houses between 600 and 700. The commerce was formerly so so great that the Sultan of the Agades was able to pay his feudal chief, the King of Soughay, a tribnte of 150,600 ducats yearly. It is now inconsiderable; but Dr. Barth considers that it might be revived, and that the town would form a good and comparatively healthy place for an European agent, from which to open relations with Central Africa. In an appendix he gives several routes which connect Agades with other places, and serve, as he says, "as rays of light to discover to us districts not yet visited by any European."
On the 30th of October Dr. Barth returned to Tintel-lust, the residence of the friendly sheik Aunur, and there awaited the arrival of the caravan, which he proposed to accompany to Soudan. The salt which is by this means conveyed to Kano, the central mart of Nigritia, is in cakes of regular shape, of which the largest, called kantu, is equal to 20 of the smallest.—They are formed at Bilma, whence the commodity is derived, by pouring it in a fluid state into wooden moulds. A camel carries eight kantus, and the caravan which Dr. Barth accompanied comprised about 2,000 of these animals. The chief duty of the 'lord of the whites'—a title, is may be observed, which is not a native one—it to accompany this salt caravan as far as Sokatoo protect it on the road, and secure it against exorbitant exactions on the part of the natives.—For this trouble he receives an eighth part of the salt; and, as he at the same time trades on his own account, he cannot fail to amass great wealth. Mohammed Boru, whose social importance reminds one of the Fuggers of the middle ages, possessed residences in Kano and Zinde, as well as in Agades and Sokatoo. It was, indeed, unfortunate that so groat a personage should have been alienated by the want of discernment of Mr. Richardson on his first introduction to him at Mourzouk.
The Caravan left Tintel-lust for the south early
in December, but loitered on its way until Christmas-day had passed. The description given of the start is worth extracting:
'Late in the morning we began to move, but very slowly, halting every now and then. At length the old chief (Annur) himself came up, walking like a young man before his meheri which he led by the nosecord, and the varied groups composing the caravan began to march more steadily. It was a whole nation in motion, the men on camels or on foot, the women on bullocks or on asses, with all the necessaries of the little household, as well as the houses themselves, a herd of cattle, another of milk goats, and numbers of young camels running playfully alongside, and sometimes getting between the regular lines of the laden animals.'
It was altogether a jolly time.
'In the evening there was playing and dancing all over the large camp, and the drummers were all vying with each other; and I observed that our drummer, Hassan, who was proud of his talent, and used to call for a little present, was quite outdone by the drummer of that portion of the caravan which was nearest to us, who performed his work with great skill and caused general enthusiasm among the dancing people.'
But this agreeable time was only a sort of prelude to the real journey. The fertile arable zone of Central Africa is bounded to the north by another of the 'hammadas,' or elevated desert plateaux which have been described above. It extends from about 15d. 30 min. to 17d. 15 min., and is a sandy ledge, intersected here and there with low crests of rock, consisting chiefly of gneiss, and is singularly deficient in water, the only well on the road containing but a moderate supply of muddy fluid. Travellers, however, if they would not perish of thirst, must resort to this supply, which is situated in a most dangerous locality, the border robbers being well aware that all caravans must visit it, and accordingly keeping constant watch to cut off any stragglers or parties of insufficient strength to resist an attack. Here our travelers saw the year 1850 out celebrating the event by a supper of two ostrich eggs, which had been found in the sand by the people of the chief Annur. The cold was very severe in the night, and the wind strong, and Dr. Barth had considerable difficulty in avoiding the necessity of presenting a warm bernus which he wore to the donor of the ostrich eggs. From the plateau they descended into a country abounding in cattle, and were visited by the male inhabitants of a village of the Tagama, the licentiousness of whose manners is described as extremely revolting. Even those whose behaviour was least vile did not cease to press their own sisters and wives upon their visitors.
It seems not unlikely that these people are the descendants of the Auses and Machlyes mentioned by Herodotus, who migrated southward on the occasion we have already noticed, for Dr. Barth says that although the women are immensely fat, their features are very regular, and their skin fair. Marco Paulo describes similar customs as prevailing in a part of Thibet, through which caravans passed; and it is curious that while in the African village the dissoluteness of manners was combined with the reputation of peculiar sanctity, the husbands and fathers of the women wearing their hair in long tresses as the distinctive mark of being Merabetin (holy men), in Thibet the offensive practice was sedulously inculcated by the priests as a religious duty, and one especially calculated to secure the favor of the gods of the country. It appears, therefore, possible that both the cases we have a relic of an ancient Aphrodite worship, in which orgies such as those which draw down the Divine judgment on the nations of Canaan found an appropriate place.
The grazing country of the Tagama is succeeded by a rich undulating one—the corn-producing Damerghad, the granary of Air. Here the country presented the appearance of one unbroken stubblefield, and the travellers saw for the first time that peculiar style of architecture which extends through the whole of Central Africa—huts erected almost entirely with the stalks of the Indian corn. Scattered among these were the "stacks" of that article, consisting of enormous baskets made of reeds and placed on a scaffold of wood about two feet high, as a security against the ant and the mouse, and coveeed over with a thatched roof like the huts.
At Tagadel, a village of this country, which belonged to their protector, the chief Annur, the travellers intended to part. They had reached a country in which single individuals could proceed on their way in safety, and their finances were so low that it became desirable to sink the dignity of the mission, and try what could be unostentatiously accomplished by each single-handed until new supplies should arrive from home.
(To be continued.) [begin surface 692]BARTH reached Kukawa, the capital of Bornu, on the 2d of April, 1852, more than a year after his departure from Tripoli. This place had been appointed as the rendezvous of the members of the expedition, who had taken different routes upon their entrance into Negroland. The Sheik had been apprised of their coming, and had provided comfortable quarters for their reception. The death of Mr. Richardson, and the loss of the greater portion of their property, greatly embarrassed the survivors; for all his effects had fallen into the hands of the Vizier, and his servants were clamorous for their pay. Barth had nothing but promises to give them; of these he was liberal.
He fared better than he could reasonably have anticipated. He not only induced the Vizier to give up the effects of Mr. Richardson, but actually succeeded in borrowing a hundred dollars' worth of cowries, which enabled him to pay the most pressing demands against him, and to live for a while in tolerable comfort. Mr. Overweg shortly after joined him, when they dug a well in their court-yard, white washed their house, and did their best to fight the abounding fleas, ants, and bedbugs. To keep off the fleas the natives daub their walls with fresh cow-dung; of bedbugs they make little account, rather liking them, in fact, on account of their peculiar odor, which they esteem pleasant and aromatic.
The Empire of Bornu was formerly the most powerful state of Negroland, comprising the whole country around Lake Tsad. It has now fallen into decay; its limits are sorely contracted, and its frontiers are devastated by the surrounding tribes. Toward the north are the dominions of the Turks, which, though weak and trembling at its centre, is grasping with its outer extremities. On the northwest are the Berbers of the desert, ready to pounce upon any prey that comes to hand. To the west is the Fellata Empire, made up of provinces loosely connected, but pushing their conquests in every [covered] pagan state of Waday, just rising into power, and not unlikely, should its heterogeneous elements become consolidated under a strong ruler, to become paramount in this region.
Omar, the Sheik of Bornu, was a good-natured, feeble prince, at feud with his brothers, and leaving affairs wholly in the hands of his Vizier, Haj Beshir, a shrewd, scheming, intelligent old fellow, whose ruling passion was to include in his harem specimens of all the beauty of Negroland. He had three or four hundred of these; and when he died, a couple of years later, he left behind him seventy-three living sons, besides probably as many daughters, of whom no account was taken. In his way he was a strictly pious man, and was terribly shocked at learning that Europeans would now and then get drunk. Barth hinted, by way of excuse, that they practiced self-denial in the matter of women, and might therefore claim some indulgence in other respects. The Vizier was not unwilling to enter into a treaty with the English, but insisted that they would not be allowed to sell rum or Bibles in Bornu.
It costs little to live in Kukawa. A dollar will buy three ox-loads of grain, a couple of fat sheep, or a good ox. A cow costs two dollars; a tolerable horse six or eight; a camel from eight to twenty. Marketing, however, involves quite a complicated series of transactions. The country people want shirts for their grain, and refuse both dollars and shells. The stranger must, therefore, first buy shells with his money, then he must exchange his shells for a shirt, and the shirt for grain. Indeed, a man with a shirt on his back, no matter how much soiled or worn, is here always safe from immediate starvation.
Barth's head-quarters were at Kukawa for more than 18 months, though a great part of this time was occupied with exploring tours in various directions, which we shall briefly notice in their order.
The exploration of Lake Tsad was one of the leading objects of the expedition. This was found to be an immense fresh-water lagoon, with swampy shores overflowed to a greater or less extent, according to the height of the water. In 1851 Barth rode for ten miles over a level plain, covered with grass and alive with antelopes, and affording SHORES OF LAKE TSAD. magnificent pasturage, before he came to the water. Three years later, he found the whole of this expanse overflowed to a considerable depth. In ELEPHANTS NEAR LAKE TSAD. some parts the shores are infested with hippopotami; in others elephants abound. Upon one occasion BORNESE SOLDIERS. Barth counted a herd of ninety-six of these animals marching in procession, the large males occupying the van and rear, while the females and young were in the centre. It receives numerous affluents, the principal of which is the great River Shari, but has no outlet. Mr. Overweg sailed over it, in the boat which had been brought all the way across the desert. Even in the open water its depth was only from ten to fifteen feet. The centre is filled with numerous small islands, some of them mere sandy downs, and others fertile and cultivated, separated by narrow, intricate channels. These islands are inhabited by the Biddumi, an independent pagan tribe, who make constant predatory incursions against the dwellers of the shore.
A couple of months after Barth's arrival at Kukawa, an embassy came from Adamawa, complaining that the Bornese had made an incursion into the Marghi country, and carried away as slaves the inhabitants of certain places to which the Governor of Adamawa laid claim. Omar resolved to send an embassy in return, and Barth took advantage of their escort to visit Adamawa. This country lies to the south of Bornu, and is a recent conquest of the Fellatas. The way led through a mountainous country, where the aboriginal pagan tribes still maintain their ground against the Bornese and Fellata invaders, who make continual razzias upon them for the purpose of procuring slaves. Barth's escort were with difficulty prevented from capturing the natives when opportunity served; and were themselves not free from apprehensions of attack from them. At a village where they made a short delay, Barth became an object of special attention. One of the natives, who had embraced Islamism, was most desirous of securing his blessing, while his pagan neighbors persisted in identifying the traveler with their god Fête, come to sojourn with them for a space. A girl took a more practical view of the matter, and proposed that he should take her as his wife. She was about fifteen years old; but according to African ideas was already an old maid. Barth very politely assured her that nothing would have pleased him better than to have accepted her offer if he purposed to reside in the country; but as he was merely a sojourner, he must be excused.
On the 18th of June, twenty days after leaving Kukawa, they reached a great river, eight hundred yards broad, and eleven feet deep, flowing westward three and a half miles an hour. This was the Benuwe, "the Mother of Waters," the great eastern branch of the Niger. In a geographical point of view this was a discovery of the highest importance. Lander and Clapperton had before reached this river, but had supposed it to be a tributary of Lake Tsad. Barth, by disproving this idea, and showing that it emptied into the ocean, demonstrated that a practicable way by water lay into the very heart of Central Africa. It was, he says, one of the happiest moments of his life. In imagination he saw commerce and civilization advancing along this broad highway, penetrating the heart of Africa, and putting an end to the barbarous slave hunts which are the bane of this fertile region. At the earliest possible moment he sent back to England tidings of his great discovery, and a steamboat expedition was at once fitted out, which succeeded in ascending the river almost to the point where he now stood.
Two days later, Barth, in high spirits, reached Yola, the capital of Adamawa. The information which he had laboriously collected convinced him that this was the garden of Africa, and he indulged the hope of being its first European explorer. He presented to Mohammed Lowel, the Governor, a letter from the Sheik of Bornu in which he was described as a learned and pious Christian, who was wandering about to admire the works of Almighty God, and had therefore come to Adamawa, of which he had heard so much. The letter was well received. But the scene was changed when the dispatches of Sheik Omar were read. These contained a claim upon some of the territory which Mohammed considered his own. The Governor was furious. What did the Sheik mean by making such pretensions? If he wanted war, well and good. As for the Christian traveler, his reasons for visiting the country were all a pretext; he should return forthwith by the way he came. The wrath of the Governor cooled after a day or two; but he adhered to his determination to expel the traveler, though he assigned quite another reason. He was but a slave of the great
[begin surface 695]Sultan of Sokoto, and dared not receive a visit from Barth, who was a much greater man than himself; if he would go to Sokoto, and return with a letter from the Sultan, he should be received with open arms, and might visit the whole country; but now he must not stay.
The Governor was unmoved by Barth's reasonings and remonstrances, and the traveler with a heavy heart was forced to return to Kukawa.
Not long after he learned that Sheik Omar was about to send a hostile expedition into Waday. He had entered into an alliance with the Welad Sliman, a small band of predatory Arabs, in virtue of which he was to furnish them with arms and horses, receiving in return a portion of the booty which they should capture. Barth and Overweg received permission to accompany this band. This expedition, which took them to the north and east of the lake, occupied two months. The marauders met with little success. Encountering unexpected resistance, they made a tumultuous retreat.
Soon after it was announced that the Sheik was about to undertake an expedition, the object and direction of which were kept a profound secret. The truth was, his coffers and slave-rooms were empty, and must be replenished. An army of 20,000 men, half of whom were horsemen, was collected. It was to be a slave hunt on a large scale.
Barth, despite some misgivings, accompanied the Sheik. One bright Sunday morning he first saw the horrors of a slave hunt. After marching for miles through a dense forest, they came upon a pleasant village. Groups of huts, shaded by fine trees, were surrounded by the well-cultivated fields, through which wound paths bordered by thick hedgerows. The pastoral quiet of the scene was rudely broken. The Bornese horsemen were seen chasing the poor villagers along the shady paths. Here one was dragged from his hiding-place; there another, who had crept into the thick covert of a hedge, was a mark for bullets and arrows; close by a body of troops were keeping watch over the cattle which they had seized.
It was a sickening sight; but its full horror was not reached till night, when the various bands brought into camp the captives they had taken. There were a thousand of them—men, women, and children. Of the men, one hundred and seventy—almost the whole number—were slaughtered on the spot : a leg was rudely hacked off, and they were suffered to bleed to death. They were all tall, wild-looking fellows, with high, straight foreheads, thick lips, broad nostrils, and coarse bushy hair; physically they were much superior to the Bornese, and by no means deficient in courage; but living in isolated villages, and inferior in arms, they could offer no effective opposition to the hordes of their invaders. Their only recourse is to take refuge in forests and swamps where the enemy can not follow them. Almost all the men succeeded in making good their escape, leaving only old women and young children to the mercy of the captors, who vented their wrath by burning all the villages in their way. The loss of the slight huts would have been of little consequence to the poor Marghi, for they could be easily rebuilt; but the granaries, in which the products of the harvest were stored up, were likewise destroyed, and the people were undoubtedly exposed to all the miseries of famine. The Vizier regretted that the famine would not be absolute, on account of the abundant supply of fish with which the frequent river-courses abounded.
This raid occupied about three months, and the expedition returned slowly to the capital, with 10,000 cattle and 3000 slaves. Of these the greater portion were old women and young children. Not more than 300 men were taken, and of these almost all were remorselessly slaughtered by their cowardly captors.
This foray was made into the region of the head-waters of the Shari on one hand, and of the Benuwe on the other. Here, according to the old geographers, are the majestic Mountains of the Moon, whose snow-capped summits support the heavens, and form an insurmountable barrier between Central and Western Africa. But instead of lofty mountains he found broad, fertile plains, intersected by innumerable water-courses, with only here and there isolated hills. The Mountains of the THE SLAVE HUNT. Moon are a myth. The Niger is to Africa what the Mississippi is to America, giving easy access to central regions of untold fertility, which must some day become the abodes of civilized man.
The funds of the expedition were now at their SCENERY OF CENTRAL AFRICA. lowest ebb. Their credit was exhausted, and Barth began seriously to meditate upon the necessity of an immediate return. Before doing so, he determined upon a journey toward Bagirmi, a province RETURN OF THE SULTAN. lying along the lower course of the Shari, the Sultan of which is nominally a dependent of the Sheik of Bornu.
He set out on the 4th of March, accompanied by two lads, with a horse and camel as the sole means of conveying himself, his baggage, and equipments. In a fortnight he reached the banks of the Shari, traversing a country where no European had ever set foot. The Shari, which forms the western boundary of Bagirmi, was here fully six hundred yards broad, but shallow and running with a slow current. He had no sooner crossed the river than difficulties began to press upon him. The Sultan was absent on a warlike expedition, and his lieutenant had heard that Barth was somehow a dangerous character, and ordered him to await the decision of the Sultan. A whole month had been wasted in fruitless negotiations, when Barth determined to retrace his steps. But the Governor, equally fearful of his advance and return, seized him, and put him in irons. The irons were taken off in a few days, but he was carried a prisoner to Massena, the capital, where he was destined to pass more than three weary months.
His chief solace was the company of a tall, blind, old Fellata, named Faki Sambo, who had been educated in Egypt, and was not only versed in all the branches of Oriental learning, but had read such portions of Plato and Aristotle as had been translated into Arabic. Over a dish of rice-pudding, dates, and coffee they would converse of the affairs of Negroland and Christendom, or recall the glories of the Khalifate, when the Moslem ruled in Bagdad and Spain. Faki's one weakness was a singular fondness for emetics, and Barth was obliged to administer them to him by the dozen, besides supplying all his family.
The lieutenant of the Sultan was evidently greatly puzzled what to make of Barth. At one time he sent to know if he had not brought any cannon with him; and when reminded that a camel and a horse were hardly adapted for the transportation of articles so heavy, desired him to manufacture a field-piece or two. At another time he sent a message inquiring if it were true, as was currently reported, that he made the thunderclouds pass by without letting fall a single drop of rain. Barth denied the possession of such power; adding that if the Governor thought he was doing any such mischief, it was easy to send him away, when he would pray night and day for rain. The functionary replied that they were then praying for rain, and Barth might add his supplication to theirs; but hinted that if he was ill-disposed it would be the worse for him, adding that they had just put two men to death on suspicion.
Barth was all this time specially "hard up." His whole effects consisted of a few cheap looking-glasses and a quantity of needles. These last were his main stay; luckily they were in good demand, and at high prices—two of them being sufficient to pay for a fowl, and other things in proportion. They were also very acceptable presents to his friends, and his liberality procured for him the complimentary title of the "Prince of Needles."
The Sultan at length returned, and made a pompous entry into his capital, accompanied by forty of the favorite inmates of his harem, who had been selected to solace him during this expedition. He professed to be greatly displeased with the treatment to which Barth had been subjected, and sent him some presents. Among these was a beautiful female slave, which was not accepted. Two days later an express arrived from Kukawa with welcome news. A caravan had arrived from Fezzan with messages and supplies for the explorers. The British Government were fully satisfied with Barth's proceedings, and authorized him to continue his researches, placing sufficient means at his disposal. This 6th of July Barth estimates as one of the happiest days of his life.
Late in August he returned to Kukawa, having been absent five and a half months. He found Mr. Overweg seriously ill. He grew worse daily, until the morning of September 27, when he died, at the village of Maduwari, on the shore of Lake Tsad. He was buried that afternoon, under a tree close by the lake. Hard by lay moored the boat, brought across the desert, in which he had sailed over the lake.
Barth was now the sole white man in Central Africa. He had proposed to make another journey near Lake Tsad. "But," he writes, "any longer stay in the place had now become so intolerable to me, that I determined to set out as soon as possible on my journey toward the Niger—to new countries and new people."
Thus closes that portion of his travels already published. A succeeding volume will give the narrative of his journey to Timbuctoo, and his long detention in that city.
[begin surface 696]by the surrounding sea. Many kinds of kitchen vegetables remain uninjured in the gardens through the winter. Most of the fields retain their verdure throughout this season. The moisture of the atmosphere imparts to vegetation a peculiar depth of verdure. The snows rarely lie upon the earth more than two or three days.
16. Soil.—Of this, there is every variety, but the most common constituents are clay, loam, sand, chalk, gravel, and peat. There are extensive moors, or barren tracts, with fens, heaths, and downs, in different parts, only useful for pasture. There are some fertile regions, but in general England does not naturally possess a prolific soil. It is rendered productive only by its diligent and skillful cultivation.
17. Face of the Country.—In general, the aspect of England is varied and delightful. In some parts, verdant plains, watered by copious rivers, extend as far as the eye can reach. In others are swelling hills and bending vales, fertile in grain, waving with wood, and interspersed with meadows. Some tracts abound with prospects of the more romantic kind, embracing lofty mountains, craggy rocks, deep, narrow dells, and tumbling torrents. Here and there are black moors, wide heaths, and desolate plains.
18. Political Divisions.—England is divided into counties, as follows:
Counties. | Towns. | Population. |
Bedfordshire | Bedford | |
Berkshire | Reading | |
Buckinghamshire | Aylesbury | |
Cambridgeshire | Cambridge | |
Cheshire | Chester | |
Cornwall | Bodmin | |
Cumberland | Carlisle | |
Derbyshire | Derby | |
Devonshire | Exeter | |
Dorsetshire | Dorchester | |
Durham | Durham | |
Essex | Chelmsford | |
Gloucestershire | Gloucester | |
Herefordshire | Hereford | |
Hertfordshire | Hertford | |
Huntingdonshire | Huntingdon | |
Kent | Canterbury | |
Lancashire | Lancaster | |
Manchester | ||
Leicester | Liverpool | |
Leicester | ||
Lincolnshire | ||
Middlesex | Brentford | |
London | ||
Monmouthshire | Monmouth | |
Counties | Towns | Population |
Norfolk | Norwich | |
Northamptonshire | Petersborough | |
Northumberland | Newcastle-on-Tyne | |
Nottinghamshire | Nottingham | |
Oxfordshire | Oxford | |
Rutlandshire | Oakham | |
Shropshire | Shrewsbury | |
Somersetshire | Bath | |
S'thamptonshire, Hampshire, or Hants | Winchester | |
Southampton | ||
Staffordshire | Stafford | |
Suffolk | Ipswich | |
Surrey | Guilford | |
Sussex | Chichester | |
Warwickshire | Coventry | |
Westmoreland | Appleby | |
Wiltshire | Salisbury | |
Worcestershire | Worcester | |
Yorkshire viz | ||
East Riding | Beverly | |
North Riding | Northallerton | |
West Riding | Ripon | |
City and Ainstey | York |
19. Industry.—England surpasses every other country in the skill with which its agriculture is conducted; in the extent, variety, and perfection of its manufactures, and in the extent of its commerce. Every quarter of the world seems tributary to the enterprise and perseverance of this great nation.
20. Canals, Railroads, &c.—These cross England in every direction. The common roads are the best in the world. Electric telegraphs connect London with every quarter of the kingdom; one line crosses the English Channel from Dover to Calais. In no country is the internal intercourse rendered so easy as in England.
21. Inhabitants.—Among these, there are few foreigners, and these are mostly in the seaports. There are small bands of gipsies roving about the country, and many Jews in London. The English are a robust, florid, handsome people, fond of domestic life, and largely addicted to athletic amusements. Horse-racing, cock-fighting, and bull-baiting are favorite sports with the mass. Field sports are ardently
An English Peasant.pursued by the higher classes. Wealth is very unequally distributed, and the cottages of the poor are strongly contrasted with the splendid mansions of the rich. Many of the parks of the nobility display a princely splendor. The Duke of Buckingham's seat, at Stowe, is 916 feet long. The traveler finds in England the best inns in the world. The intellectual character of the nation is high. The great names of Shakspeare, Bacon, Milton, Locke, Newton, Dryden, Pope, Johnson, Chatham, and Byron, attest their excellence in poetry, philosophy, morals, eloquence, and science. In the fine arts the English are less successful. The general character of the English nation is often represented by themselves under the idea of John Bull, a person of rough and blunt manners, but possessed of good sense, energy, and honesty.
St. Paul's Cathedral.22. Religion.—The established religion of England is Episcopacy. The king or queen is the supreme head of the Church, which is governed by two archbishops and 25 bishops. The archbishop of Canterbury is styled primate of all England. Dissenters are numerous, embracing Methodists, Baptists, Quakers, Roman Catholics, &c. These comprise about one-half the population.
23. Education.—The provision for the education of the poorer classes is imperfect; but the schools sustained by charity are numerous. There are many higher seminaries for bestowing a learned education, among which the universities of Oxford and Cambridge are the most celebrated.
24. Towns.—London, the capital of the kingdom, is the richest and most populous city in the world. The river
13. Animals? 14. Minerals? 15. Climate? 16. Soil? 17. Face of the country? 18. Political Divisions? 19. Industry? 20. Canals, railroads, &c.? 21. Inhabitants? 22. Religion? 23. Education? 24. Towns? Describe London, Liverpool, Portsmouth, &c.
[begin surface 698]THE GREATEST CITY.—London is now the greatest city in the world, and far surpasses all the great cities of antiquity. According to Gibbon, the population of ancient Rome, in the height of its magnificence, was 2,200,000. Nineveh is estimated to have had 600,000, and Dr. Medhurst supposes the population of Pekin is about 2,000,000. The population of London, according to recent statistics, amounts to 2,500,000, 404,622 having been added to it during the last ten years. The census shows that it contains 307,722 inhabited, and 16,389 uninhabited houses.
Paris proper has increased 200,000 in population since Louis Napoleon first assumed sway.
New York is stretching on toward 1,000,000.
Thames passes through it, and over this there are several splendid bridges of stone, and one of iron. The largest is 1239 feet in length. There is a passage, called the Tunnel, which goes under the river Thames, from one side to the other. Among the numerous splendid edifices in London, are the Parliament Houses, Westminster Abbey, and St. Paul's Cathedral. The docks of London are on a vast scale, and afford an indication of the prodigious extent of its commerce. Scene in London. The following table will give some idea of the magnitude of this metropolis: though ascertained 23 years ago. A table listing the number of houses * , business firms, Episcopal churches and chapels, other places of worship, other buildings for religious purposes, public schools, colleges, hospitals, alms-houses, public offices, courts, prisons, theatres, public houses and drinking places, streets and squares, and lawyers in London. It is stated that the water used daily would cover fifty acres, three feet deep ! The annual consumption of coal for fuel is one million chaldrons ! One of the most striking circumstances in London is the great number of splendid carriages seen in the streets, indicating the vast wealth of the inhabitants. These are met with in the West End, where the nobility and gentry reside, and where there are many fine streets, and several extensive public gardens, called parks. The eastern part of the city is devoted to business. In many portions of London, multitudes of miserable wretches may be seen, suffering alike from vice, crime, and poverty. The two principal streets in London are Oxford-street and the Strand, both of which during the day are filled with crowds of people on foot, and an endless maze of vehicles of every description. London, at all times has an atmosphere dimmed with smoke; but in the winter, The Queen's Coach and Guards. the smoke and fog together render it so dark, that it is often necessary to light the lamps of the streets during the day. A celebrated English poet thus describes the scene at this period:—
No sun, no moon, No morn, no noon, No dusk, no dawn, No proper time of day; No sky, no earthly view, No distance looking blue, No road, no street, No t'other side the way! View of Town Hall, Liverpool.The country for miles around London is thickly studded with dwellings, sometimes in groups, and sometimes standing apart, the grounds around being tastefully laid out and ornamented with gardens and pleasure-grounds. Among the other great towns and cities of England, we may notice Liverpool, which has an extensive trade with America; Portsmouth, the great rendezvous of the British navy; Manchester, famed for its cotton manufactures; Birmingham, for its hardware; Sheffield, for its cutlery; Leeds, for its woolen cloths; Coventry, for watches and ribbons. Bath, one of the handsomest cities in England, is noted for its mineral waters. There are also several other watering-places, as Bristol, Cheltenham, &c., which have been already mentioned.
View of the City of Bath, in England.25. Antiquities.—There are many ruins and remains of past ages scattered over England. Some of these are supposed to have been connected with the worship of the
* Houses in 1851, 329,428 : 62,286 were built in the previous ten years.Druids, who were the priests of the ancient Britons. One of these, on Salisbury Plain, consists of a circular range of enormous stones, set up endwise. The ruins of ancient abbeys and castles, found in different places, are interesting relics of by-gone times. Among the castles, still maintained in its perfection, is that of the Earl of Warwick, in the town of that name. It is an imposing structure, and the grounds around are very beautiful.
View of Warwick Castle.26. Ancient Geography.—The following is a list of various ancient names applied to the towns, rivers, etc., of England:
A table listing the ancient Roman names of the following modern locations: Britain, Isle of Man, German Ocean, Straits of Dover, English Channel, The Wash, Thames River, Severn River, Humber River, Dee River, Tyne River, Carlisle, York, Manchester, Doncaster, Lincoln, Leicester, Chester, St. Albans, London, Dover, Bath, Isle of Wight.27. History.—England appears so prominently in the history of the British islands, that, in common language, we often speak of England as embracing the whole empire, and of the English as meaning the whole people. England, from the beginning, has been the leading kingdom. It first subjugated Wales, then Scotland, and at last Ireland. Our first knowledge of this country is furnished by Cæsar, the Roman general, who, after having conquered Gaul, crossed the English Channel, and invaded the island, 55 B. C. As he approached the shore, near the present town of Deal, east of Dover, he found the savage Britons gathered in great numbers, ready to resist. They were armed with bows and arrows, spears, and clubs; their bodies were painted in a hideous manner, and their furious yells filled the air. After a severe engagement, the Romans landed, and remained about three weeks, the Britons acknowledging their authority, and agreeing to pay them tribute. These engagements not being fulfilled, Cæsar again invaded the island, 54 B. C. He reduced a portion of the people to submission, and compelled many of the chief men to accompany him as hostages. In a work entitled Commentaries, Cæsar gives a very interesting account of these events. He describes the Britons as living in scattered villages, on the banks of rivers, and in the midst of forests. Most of them were complete savages, tattooing their skins, and dressing in the hides of cattle. They appear to have been Celts, like the people of Gaul or France. They had war-chariots armed with scythes, and drawn by horses, which they drove furiously among the enemy in time of battle. The women made baskets of willow twigs, and sewed the skins of animals together for dress, their needles being made of bone. The southern tribes were more civilized than those of the north. These had herds of cattle, and lived upon meat, fruits, plants, and milk. They practiced a little agriculture in a rude manner. In winter, they lived in holes in the ground; in summer, they occupied huts, made of stakes, covered with twigs and boughs of trees. They had no books, or means of recording events. They were divided into numerous tribes, each having a chief. The Druids were the priests and lawgivers; the chiefs only commanding in time of war. The religion consisted in worshiping certain divinities, either in the forests, or beneath spreading oaks, or in temples composed of huge stones. The religious services were conducted by the Druids, who were taught certain mysterious learning, composed in the form
25. Antiquities? 26. Ancient Geography? 27. History? Describe England at the time of Cæsar's invasion? What of the invasion
[begin surface 701]of verses. After the departure of Cæsar from Britain, the Romans were so much occupied with their civil wars, that almost a century elapsed before they again attempted its conquest. In the year 43 A. D., an army of 50,000 men was sent thither, under the command of Aulus Plautius. These were bravely resisted by the Britons, led by Caractacus. The Romans at last prevailed, and, after immense bloodshed, established themselves over the greater part of Britain. Under their sway, towns and castles were built, and London, which was at first a forest, became a rich and populous city. Caledonia, now Scotland, was inhabited by Scots and Picts, a wild and warlike people, who made frequent incursions into the territories of the Romans. Forts, ramparts, and walls were built across the country, from the River Tyne to the Solway Frith, to keep out these marauders. At length, the Roman dominion was complete over the territory now called England. They never conquered Scotland, and some of the Welsh long continued independent in their mountains. The Romans could gain no footing in Ireland. For a period of nearly 500 years, they maintained their power in England, building roads, castles, towns, and cities. There are many relics of these Roman works still to be seen in England. During this period, the people became partially civilized. The upper classes adopted the Roman dress, spoke the Roman language, and many of the young men were educated at Rome. About the year 440, the Romans were compelled, in order to protect their cities and territories in Italy from the barbarians, who began to pour in upon them, to withdraw their troops from Britain, as well as other remote provinces. The Picts and Scots, finding that the Roman soldiers were gone, now attacked the Britons, and inflicted upon them innumerable evils. About the same time, the Northmen, or men of the north, inhabiting the shores of the Baltic Sea, set forth in their light vessels, and invaded the shores of the more southern portions of Europe. In 448 A. D., a party of 300 of these, called Saxons, led by Hengist and Horsa, landed in Britain. The people, suffering under the ravages of the Scots and Picts, asked for their assistance. This was granted, and the enemy was driven back. The result was, however, that the Saxons, joined by multitudes of their countrymen, divided England into seven kingdoms, between seven of their chiefs, thus founding what is called the Saxon Heptarchy, A. D. 559. The Saxons were composed partly of a tribe called Angles; whence these invaders, who became the founders of the English people, are called Anglo-Saxons—a name still given to their descendants. This people displaced the Christian religion, which had been introduced under the Romans, and substituted the worship of Woden, the god of battle. From these people, the English derived many of their present manners and customs, which have also descended to our country. The Saxons at last quarreled among themselves, and Egbert, king of Wessex, reduced the other tribes. He was accordingly crowned, A. D. 827, king of Angle Land; thus establishing the kingdom of England. Another enemy now appeared to disturb the country. The Danes came hither in great numbers, carrying off goods, cattle, and people. They sailed from place to place in their little vessels, making sudden and fatal attacks along the coast. At last, Alfred, one of the Saxon kings, came to the throne, 871 A. D. After experiencing many trials, he drove the Danes away, and gave peace to his country. He was one of the greatest kings that ever sat upon the English throne. He established good laws, encouraged learning, instituted the right of trial by jury, and at last died, 901 A. D., loved by his subjects, feared by his enemies, and admired by mankind. From this period, the history of England flows on in an unbroken current. It is impossible for us to give even an outline of the history of that country, and the events which have at last rendered it the mightiest empire on the face of the globe. We can only notice a few of the leading incidents. In the year 1066, England was invaded by William, duke of Normandy, in France, he claiming a right to the crown. Succeeding in this enterprise, he became king, established the Norman line of sovereigns, and introduced many Norman customs into the country. In the year 1215, the barons of England compelled King John to sign what is called Magna Charta, by which the power of the crown was limited, and the liberties of the people in some degree acknowledged and secured. In the reign of Henry VI. occurred the celebrated Wars of the Roses, so called because those attached to the house of Lancaster wore red roses as their badge, and those attached to the house of York wore white roses. In the year 1461, the house of York triumphed, and Edward IV. became king. In these bloody contests, a great part of the old nobility perished. In 1534, Henry VIII. caused the Church of England to be separated from the Church of Rome; since which time, it has been the State Church of the empire. In 1603, James VI. of Scotland became king of England. Since him, the same sovereign has reigned over both countries. In 1605, the celebrated Gunpowder Plot took place, the object of Guy Fawkes and his Associates. which was to blow up the parliament-house; thus destroying at once the king, lords, and commons. This plot was formed by certain Catholics, who were dissatisfied with King James and the government. It was detected, and Guy Fawkes, a principal leader, and some others, were executed. In 1642, a civil war broke out, owing to the usurpations of Charles I. In 1649, he was beheaded. England became a Commonwealth, and Oliver Cromwell the chief ruler. He reigned with great ability for nine years, and was succeeded by his son Richard. He soon resigned; and in 1660, Charles II. was restored, amid the acclamations of the people. Scotland, which had been under the same sovereign with England since 1603, was finally united to it in 1707. Ireland, conquered in 1172, was united to Great Britain in 1800, thus forming the British Empire.
of Aulus Plautius? The Northmen? The Saxon Heptarchy? Wars of the Roses? Gunpowder Plot? Oliver Cromwell?
1. Characteristics.—Wales is a peninsula on the west of England, noted for its mountains, hills, and valleys.
2. Mountains, &c.—The highest mountain in Wales is Snowdon, 3557 feet high. Plynlimmon is 2463 feet high.
3. Rivers, &c.—The Severn, Dee, and Wye, rising in Wales, and flowing into England, are the most noted rivers. The valleys of these and other streams are celebrated for their beauty. The lakes are insignificant. The shores are irregular, and indented with several harbors. The principal island is Anglesea, twenty-four miles long, and seventeen broad. It was anciently called Mona, and was the chief seat of the Druidical worship of Great Britain. It has still many Druidical remains. It is level, fertile, and well cultivated, producing copper and lead. Anglesey is separated from the main land by the Menai Strait, which is crossed by a suspension bridge, 560 feet in length, and 100 above the water. A tubular suspension bridge has also been carried across the strait, and forms part of the Chester and Holyhead Railway.
4. Products, Industry, &c.—The farms are small, and agriculture is more backward than in England. Cattle and sheep are extensively produced. Ponies are bred in considerable numbers. The mining industry is highly important. Iron, copper, and coal are largely produced. Slate and limestone are common. Silver is found. The iron works are on an immense scale. Woolen cloths, flannel, and hosiery are manufactured by the peasants. The commerce is considerable; coal, slate, iron, cattle, sheep, and woolen goods being exported.
5. Climate, Soil, &c.—The soil is generally barren, except in the narrow river vales. The climate is colder than in England, and snow is common among the mountains.
6. Inhabitants.—The people of Wales are industrious and frugal. It is common for the women to wear hats like those of men. The cottages, scattered along the hill-sides, have a general aspect of neatness and comfort. Many of the miners live nearly their whole lives in the mines. They and their families have often an abject and wretched appearance. The upper classes are in all respects like the English. The people are descendants of an ancient Celtic tribe, and their original language is still preserved and spoken by some of the people.
7. Divisions.—Wales is divided as follows:
A table listing the divisions of Wales, including the counties, county towns, and populations.8. Towns.—The principal ports are Swansea, Newport, Cardiff, and Carnarvon. The latter is a walled town,
Carnarvon Castle.having a celebrated castle, where Edward II., the first Prince of Wales, was born. Holyhead is a chief packet station for communication with Ireland. Milford is a naval port. Near Chepstow are the ruins of Tintern Abbey, renowned for their extent and fine situation.
Ruins of Tintern Abbey.9. History.—Wales appears to have been occupied by Celtic tribes, at the time the Romans conquered England. The inhabitants called it Cymry, whence it has been called Cambria. Their numbers were increased by the Roman invasion, which drove the Britons westward into this mountainous country, as a retreat. The people seem to have been similar to the other Britons, having horses, cattle, sheep, and swine. Here was the chief seat of Druidism, and its most solemn and mysterious rites were performed amid the dark groves and stone temples of Anglesea. Here human beings, consisting of prisoners taken in war, and criminals, were sacrificed to their gods. The priests wore white robes and long beards, carrying wands in their hands. They had serpents' eggs, inclosed in gold, suspended from the neck. They taught many superstitions concerning serpents, rivers, and vales. The mistletoe growing upon the oak was held sacred, it being cut with a golden knife.
LESSON XCIV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Rivers, &c.? 4. Products, industry, &c.? 5. Climate, soil, &c.? 6. Inhabitants? 7. Divisions? 8. Towns? Describe Carnarvon and Holyhead? 9. History? What of the rites of the Druids?
25 [begin surface 703]They had solemn processions on New-year's day, 1st of May, and Midsummer-eve. Relics of these ceremonies are still found throughout the British islands. The Romans invaded Wales in the first century, and exterminated the Druids. After a long conflict, the country was subdued, and named Britannia Secunda. After the Romans withdrew from Britain, the Welsh resumed their ancient forms of government, the country being divided between six or seven chiefs. At a later date, it was united under one The people carried on wars against the Saxons, and, in the time of Cadwallader, 703 A. D., a portion of the country was conquered by the enemy. After the Norman conquest, the Welsh refused to pay the tribute which had been imposed upon them by the Saxon king. William marched against them, and quickly subdued the country. Wars between the Welsh and English broke out at several periods, till the time of Edward I., when they were finally subjugated, after a bloody and protracted conflict, A. D. 1283. The last of the Welsh kings was David, son of Llewellyn. Having been defeated in battle, he was chased from hill to hill, taken, tried, and hung, his dead body being drawn and quartered. The celebrated Welsh bards, or harpers, are said to have been gathered together by the English king, and put to death, as their songs were supposed to keep alive the national spirit. From this period, the English laws have prevailed in Wales. In the time of Henry IV., Owen Glendower maintained himself as an independent prince for a time. With this exception, the Welsh have been submissive to England, and are now peacefully blended with the rest of the country.
1. Characteristics.—This country occupies the northern portion of the island of Great Britain, and is noted for its wild mountain scenery and its beautiful lakes.
2. Mountains, &c.—Scotland is 280 miles long and 20 to 130 miles wide. The Grampians, in the south, and the Highlands of Caithness and Inverness, are the principal mountains. Ben Nevis, belonging to the latter, is 4380 feet high, and is the loftiest summit of the British islands. On one side, it has a perpendicular precipice of 1500 feet, affording a magnificent prospect. The Pentland Hills, in the south, are picturesque, but not greatly elevated. The mountainous parts abound with craggy rocks, deep dells, and rapid torrents. The sterility of these regions defies the efforts of human industry to render them productive.
3. Rivers.—The Forth and Tay, entering the German Ocean, and the Clyde, flowing in the opposite direction, are the principal rivers. The Tweed, near the English border, is celebrated for the beauty of its valley.
A Lake in Scotland.4. Lakes.—Loch Lomond, at the foot of the lofty mountain, Ben Lomond, is thirty miles long and sprinkled with islands. Near by is Loch Katrine, famous for its scenery, accurately described in Scott's charming poem of the Lady of the Lake. Loch Leven, Loch Awe, Loch Doom, and other small lakes, are associated with Scottish romance and song.
5. Bays, Straits, Harbors, &c.—The coast is every where rocky, and indented by inlets and arms of the sea. The Friths of Forth, Tay, Murray, Dornock, Pentland, and Solway, are the principal bays. The last forms part of the boundary between Scotland and England.
6. Islands.—The Hebrides or Western Isles are three hundred in number. The largest, Lewis, is 87 miles long. The next in size are Skye, Mull, Islay, and Arran. Most of them are small, rocky, and barren, covered with heath and moss. Eighty-seven are inhabited and cultivated, the products being cattle, sheep, fish, kelp, birds' eggs, and feathers. The most westerly island is St. Kilda, with a rocky precipice, 1500 feet high, overhanging the sea. The hunting of birds and birds' eggs, by swinging over the rocky ledges, is a leading occupation of the people among all these islands. In the small island of Staffa is the celebrated basaltic cavern called Fingal's Cave. It is 227 feet long, 166 high, and 42 wide. To the north of Scotland are the Orkneys or Orcades. They are about seventy in number, and are rocky, barren, and desolate. Less than half are inhabited. The sea around is very tempestuous. In June and July, the twilight continues through the night, so as to enable a person to read. The sea-fowl are abundant along the rocky cliffs, and bird-hunting is a leading employment. The inhabitants have a few manufactures, raise a small breed of cattle, catch fish, and sell considerable quantities of oil and feathers. Fifty miles to the north are the Shetland Isles. They are eighty in number, forty being inhabited. They are bleak and barren, and surrounded by tempestuous seas. The people resemble those of the Orkneys.
7. Products.—Heath and moss still cover a considerable portion of the surface of Scotland. The products of agriculture are similar to those of England. Lead, iron, and coal, are the most abundant minerals. The two last are extensively wrought. The climate is distinguished by fogs and drizzling rain. Ice and snow are common in the winter. The narrow valleys or straths present small tracts of good soil. Yet a great part of the country is barren. The mountains are naked of trees, and have a gloomy, but
LESSON XCV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Rivers? 4. Lakes? 5. Bays, straits, and harbors? 6. Islands?
still picturesque aspect. The country is divided into the Highlands, in the north, and the Lowlands, in the south. The former embraces two-thirds of the territory. The latter presents beautiful hills, vales, and cultivated plains, with many fine country-seats and noble parks. There are stag and fallow-deer, wild in the forest as well as tame upon the large estates. There is abundance of small game, such as grouse, pheasants, hares, and rabbits, upon many of the preserves. Trout and salmon are abundant in the rivers; other kinds of fish teem in the waters along the shore.
Mountains and Hills.8. Political Divisions.—Scotland is divided into counties as follows :—
Counties. | Towns. | Populations of Towns. |
Aberdeen | Aberdeen — | 64,778 |
Argyle and Isles | Inverary — | 4,610 |
Ayr | Ayr — | 15,749 |
Banff | Banff — | 4,958 |
Berwick | Greenlaw | 1,355 |
Bute | Rothsay | 7,147 |
Caithness | Wick | 10,393 |
Clackmannan | Clackmannan — | 5,145 |
Dumbarton | Dumbarton — | 4,391 |
Dumfries | Dumfries — | 10,069 |
Edinburgh | Edinburgh — | 138,182 |
Elgin, or Moray | Elgin | 61,083 |
Fife | Cupar — | 6,758 |
Forfar (Angus) | Forfar — | 9,620 |
Haddington | Haddington | 5,452 |
Inverness and Isles | Inverness — | 15,418 |
Kincardine | Stonehaven — | 3,012 |
Kinross | Kinross | 2,062 |
Kirkcudbright | Kirkcudbright — | 3,525 |
Lanark | Lanark | 7,659 |
Linlithgow | Linlinthgow | 5,950 |
Nairn | Nairn — | 2,672 |
Orkney and Shetland | Kirkwall — | 3,599 |
Peebles | Peebles — | 1,898 |
Perth | Perth — | 19,293 |
Renfrew | Renfrew | 2,027 |
Ross and Cromarty and Isles | Tain — | 2,563 |
Roxburgh | Jedburgh | 2,697 |
Selkirk | Selkirk — | 3,484 |
Stirling | Stirling — | 8,307 |
Sutherland | Domock | 2,714 |
Wigton | Wigton — | 2,562 |
9. Industry.—Agriculture, commerce, and manufactures are all extensively and skillfully pursued. The whale and herring fisheries are considerable sources of wealth. The number of herring taken upon the coast is immense. The gathering of kelp and the hunting of birds afford employment to large numbers of persons in the rocky islands.
10. Canals, Railroads, &c.—These are numerous, though less so than in England. The common roads are excellent. There is a great deal of travel among the mountains by the lovers of the picturesque. Good inns are every where to be found.
11. Inhabitants.—These are divided into the Highlanders and Lowlanders. The former are of Celtic origin, and speak what is called the Gaelic dialect. The national dress consists of a short coat, vest, and kilt or petticoat, leaving the knee bare, with a plaid, partly fastened around the body, and thrown over one of the shoulders. These are all made of checked woolen stuffs, called tartan. The head is covered with a cap. The people are divided into clans, each clan having its peculiar tartan. Among the mountains many live in low huts without chimneys, fire being made in the middle of the room, filling it with smoke, which passes out by a hole in the top. The broadsword is the chosen weapon, and the bagpipe the favorite instrument of music. It may be remarked that these peculiarities are considerably modified, and are rapidly disappearing before the influence of English manners, customs, and opinions. The Lowland Scotch are distinguished for intelligence, morality, and religious feeling. They are industrious, and shrewd in the acquisition of property, bearing in many respects a resemblance to the people of New England. Their language is not a dialect, but an original tongue, which is now anglicized. It is spoken with a peculiar accent. The higher classes are, in all respects, similar to the English. The people retain many superstitions, among which is a belief in a kind of prophecy called second-sight. They also believe in fairies, brownies, &c. Many of the inhabitants upon the islands
Fisher Boy.live in low huts, and present a most squalid and abject appearance. In general, the Scottish nation have displayed high intellect, especially in history, philosophy, poetry, and prose fiction. Nearly all their lakes, rivers, and mountains are celebrated in the songs of Burns, Ramsay, and other poets. Scott has thrown a peculiar charm over many localities by his ballads and historical romances.
12. Government, Religion, &c.—The government is the same as that of England, though some of the old Scottish laws, the judiciary, and state religion remain. The latter, called the Kirk of Scotland, is Presbyterian, and established by law. There is, however, a large secession from this, called the Free Church of Scotland, besides a considerable body of dissenters. There are common schools in every parish, besides academies, high-schools, and universities. Scotland is noted for the good education of its people.
13. Antiquities.—Near Perth are circular towers, of unknown origin. There are large inclosures, with vitrified walls, in several places. In the south are vestiges of Roman roads and camps, and parts of Antonine's Wall, which extended from the Forth to the Clyde. The remains of Roslin Castle, Melrose Abbey, and other Gothic structures, are celebrated in song and the sketches of tourists.
14. Towns.—Edinburgh, the capital, renowned for its great number of eminent literary men, is one of the most interesting cities in the world. It is divided by a deep,
7. Products? 8. Political Divisions? 9. Industry? 10. Canals and railroads? 11. Inhabitants? 12. Government religion, &c.
[begin surface 705]narrow basin, once the bed of a lake, into the Old and New Town. The former is a crowded assemblage of antique buildings, placed upon a rugged, steep hill. Here the streets are narrow, and some of the houses are eight, and even twelve stories in hight. The New Town is regularly laid out, and built of freestone. It consists chiefly of the residences of the rich, who are drawn hither from all parts of the country. It is very elegant, and has the freshness of recent construction. At a little distance from the city are Salisbury Craig and Arthur's Seat. The latter is a rocky mountain, which lifts its head far above the smoke and noise of the town, and seems to be gazing down, with an inquisitive look, upon the busy inhabitants. Near the foot of this mountain is the supposed birthplace of Jeanie Deans, the heroine of the tale of the "Heart of Mid-Lothian." Among the inhabitants of Edinburgh,
Fish-Woman of Edinburgh.the fish-women are remarkable for their fine appearance. Glasgow, Paisley, and Perth, are celebrated for their manufactures; Melrose, for the fine ruins of its abbey; Ayr, as being near the birth-place of the poet Burns; Aberdeen, for its university.
15. History.—The first inhabitants of Scotland are supposed to have been a branch of the Cimbri, who migrated thither from Denmark about 200 B. C. These first settlers were driven out by another tribe, called Picts, or Caledones; whence Scotland was called Caledonia by the Romans. It appears there were several tribes, and historians speak of them as Picts and Scots; but the true Scots did not arrive in the country till long after. The Romans attempted to conquer them, and penetrated as far as the Grampian Hills. Beyond these, the barbarians maintained their independence. They made frequent forays into the Roman territory; and, consequently, the Roman governors constructed two walls for the purpose of excluding them—one between the Forth and the Clyde, and the other between the Solway and the Tyne. The Romans abandoned the country in the fifth century, and the Caledonians invaded the southern parts of Britain. Vortigern, the British king, called in the aid of the Saxons, and they were driven back. The name of Scotland was derived from the Irish, who were first called Scots, and their country Scotia, from a tribe that emigrated thither some time before the Christian era. They passed over to the western part of Caledonia in the sixth century, and became so numerous as to form a distinct nation from the Picts. They lived in a state of hostility with these people for two or three centuries, till at length, in the year 836 A. D., their king, Kenneth, conquered the whole country, which now took the name of Scotland. These Irish emigrants became the ancestors of the Highlanders, who still retain their ancient language; and the Saxons, who settled in the southern part of Scotland, and mingled with the Picts, became the progenitors of the Lowlanders. Christianity was introduced into Scotland in the sixth century, by an Irish bishop, called St. Columba. For 200 years after the time of Kenneth, Scotland was harassed by the Danes. Macbeth, celebrated in one of Shakspeare's plays, was slain, and succeeded by Malcolm in 1056. David I. came to the throne in 1127, founding the Abbey of Holyrood, and fixing his residence at Edinburgh. William the Lion came to the throne in 1165, and was succeeded by Alexander II., in 1214. In 1286, there were two claimants of the throne—Robert Bruce and John Baliol. The latter obtained the crown through the influence of Edward I. of England, acknowledging himself a vassal of the English king. A war between them soon followed; Baliol was defeated, taken to London, and there executed. William Wallace took the command of the Scots, but Edward defeated them in the Battle of Falkirk, 1298. In 1306, Robert Bruce, son of the rival of Baliol, claimed the Scottish throne, and in the Battle of Bannockburn, 1314, totally defeated Edward and his powerful army. This victory secured the independence of Scotland, and confirmed Bruce in possession of the throne. Under several successive sovereigns, Scotland rose to a considerable degree of power and civilization. Under the later sovereigns, literature was cultivated with success. The Highlanders, however, continued in a rude state, being devoted to their fierce, turbulent, and warlike chieftains. In the year 1542, Mary, daughter of James V., became queen. She had
13. Antiquities? 14. Towns? Describe Edinburgh; Glasgow, &c. 15. History? What of Wallace? Bruce? Mary, queen of Scots?
[begin surface 706]been educated in France, and was married to Francis II., who afterward became king of that country. He soon died, and Mary was recalled to her own kingdom. We cannot relate her melancholy story, in detail. She reigned over Scotland about seven years; but a civil war broke out, and she fled in 1568 to England, claiming the protection of her cousin, Queen Elizabeth. That jealous sovereign kept her in confinement for eighteen years, and then caused her to be executed, 1587. Her son, James VI. of Scotland and James I. of England, succeeded to the throne on the death of Elizabeth, 1603. The two countries remained separate kingdoms, having each its own parliament, though the laws were administered by one king. From this time, the two nations became gradually assimilated; and in 1707, Scotland was united to England—the two taking the title of the Kingdom of Great Britain.
1. Characteristics.—Ireland is an island, celebrated for its verdure, and hence called the Emerald Isle. It is 300 miles long, and from 70 to 160 miles broad.
2. Mountains, Rivers, &c.—There are several detached elevations, the highest of which is M'Gillicuddy Reeks, in the county of Kerry, 3404 feet high. The largest river is the Shannon, about 220 miles long, and navigable the greater part of its course. The Barrow, Foyle, Bann, and Boyne are small streams. The largest lake is Lough Neagh, in the north, fifteen miles long, and seven broad. Lough Earn and Lough Corrib are narrow sheets of water of considerable length. The Lakes of Killarney are famous for their picturesque beauty. The coast presents numerous headlands and capes. The largest bays are Galway and Donegal, on the west, and those of Belfast, Dublin, and Dundalk, on the east.
3. Climate.—The climate is similar to that of England, but more moist. The fields remain green through the entire winter.
Giant's Causeway4. Face of the Country, Soil, &c.—There are immense tracts called bogs, extending in a broad belt through the center of the island, producing nothing but heath, bog-myrtle, and sedge-grass. The remainder of the soil is stony, but high cultivation has rendered much of it productive. The surface of Ireland is generally level, with swelling hills and a few mountains of moderate elevation. The general appearance of the country is varied and pleasant, destitute of trees, but cheerful on account of its verdure. The bogs furnish ample supplies of peat, used by the inhabitants for fuel. Coal, marble, and slate are found in Kilkenny. Iron, copper, silver, and gold have been discovered in small quantities. The Giant's Causeway, on the northern coast, is an immense mass of basaltic columns, standing compactly together, and having from three to seven sides. They are perpendicular, smooth, and regular, as if hewn by art. They are of different pieces, two to three feet long, and nicely fitted together like a ball and socket joint. To the west of this are the ruins of Dunluce Castle, remarkable for their situation on an elevated rock, overhanging the sea. At Fairhead, there is a curiosity similar to the Giant's Causeway, but the columns are unbroken, being from 100 to 150 feet, in single blocks.
5. Canals, Industry, &c.—There are several important canals and railroads. Agriculture is in a backward state. Potatoes have been the principal crop; but since 1847, they have been subject to a disease called the rot. The wheat is of an inferior quality. The dairy is well managed, and Irish butter is a staple. The land is well adapted for grazing, and large quantities of cattle are raised. Oats and barley are largely produced. Flax is extensively cultivated. The linen manufactures are an important branch of industry. Paper, glass, tobacco, wool, and cotton are also manufactured. Whisky is extensively distilled. The principal exports are wheat, oats, flour, butter, bacon, beef, eggs, wool, flax, copper ore, and spirits. The fisheries along the coast are extensive, yielding herrings, pilchards, cod, &c. The estuaries abound in salmon and eels. The rivers teem with trout.
6. Divisions.—Ireland is divided into four provinces and thirty-two counties, as follows :
A table listing the counties, towns, and populations of Ireland.7. Inhabitants.—In the northeast, a large part of the population consists of the descendants of English and Scotch, who settled in the country many years ago. These
LESSON XCVI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Climate? 4. Face of the country, &c.? 5. Canals, industry &c.?
[begin surface 707]speak the English language, are Protestants, and resemble the English people. The rest are of Celtic origin, their native language resembling that of the Welsh and Scotch Highlanders. In some parts of the south and west, many of the people know no other language. The native Irish are chiefly Catholics. The large landed proprietors generally live in England, by which means their estates are neglected, and the country impoverished. The beggars in
Irish Beggars.Ireland are numerous, and celebrated for their eloquence. A great part of the peasantry live in miserable mud cabins, usually with a floor of clay, and without windows or chimneys. The chief food of the peasants consists of potatoes and milk. In 1847, a blight, called the rot, fell upon the potato crop, in consequence of which the country was desolated by famine and pestilence. It is supposed that three or four hundred thousand persons died of disease and starvation during this frightful period. Since that time, the greater part of the inhabitants have been in a depressed condition. The Irish are remarkable for wit, cheerfulness, and warmth of heart; and Swift, Goldsmith, Steele, Grattan, Curran, Burke, Thomas Moore, Wellington, and O'Connell, all Irishmen, have furnished brilliant examples in the highest walks of genius.
Oliver Goldsmith.8. Towns, &c.—Dublin is the capital of Ireland. It has some splendid streets, and many beautiful edifices. It has also streets filled with paupers, and is surrounded by multitudes of hovels, inhabited by families dressed in rags, and fed only with potatoes and milk. Belfast, Cork, and Londonderry, are populous places. The Established Religion in Ireland is the same as in England; but far the greater part of the people are Catholics. A few are Presbyterians. The education of the masses is much neglected. View of St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin. The Catholic priests teach some of the children of their followers, but a large part of the population can neither read nor write. There is a university at Dublin, and Catholic colleges are established at Maynooth and Carlow.
9. History.—Ireland received the names of Ierne and Hibernia from the ancients. It appears that the Phœnicians and Carthaginians made voyages and planted colonies here, several centuries before the Christian era. The numerous Round Towers are supposed to be the ruins of buildings once devoted to the fire-worship introduced by them. About 200 B. C., a large number of Scotii, or Milesians, emigrated from Spain to Ireland. These were Celts, and laid the foundation of the Irish nation. Ireland, in these early ages, had the name of Scotia, or Scotland; but a portion of the people emigrating to the northern part of Britain, gave this title to that country. It appears that Ireland was, in early times, divided among several kings, the chief of whom was king of Meath. Here was the Hall of Tara, where the national assemblies met once a year. The priests were Druids. A branch of these, called Brehons, were magistrates and judges. The people were in a very rude state, and wars between the chieftains were frequent. Christianity was introduced into Ireland, 432, by the celebrated St. Patrick. After a time, Ireland became the seat of numerous churches and many learned priests. In the eighth and ninth centuries, the country was divided between a multitude of kings called chiefs. Two hundred of them are said to have been slain in one battle. For 200 years, the country was desolated by the Danes. The celebrated chief Brian Boru was king of Munster, but at last became king of all Ireland. He was killed in the great battle of Clontarf, when the Danes were defeated, and their power in Ireland finally overthrown. In 1172, an English nobleman, named Strongbow, passed over to Ireland with a body of soldiers, being sent thither by Henry II., king of England. This invasion was aided by Dermot M'Murrough, king of Leinster. The expedition proved partially successful. Soon after, Henry went to Ireland himself, and part of the people readily submitted to his authority. This is called the Conquest of Ireland; and from this time, England claimed dominion over that country. The Irish have made frequent attempts to liberate themselves, but without effect. The English attempted to force their religion upon the country, but the Celtic Irish have only clung more steadily to the Catholic faith, which was introduced and established by St. Patrick. Rebellions have been frequent in modern times, but they have proved ineffectual. The Irish have continued to resist the English language and English customs, and have zealously cherished a spirit of national independence. In 1800, Ireland was united to the kingdom of Great Britain, its own parliament having ceased at that time. A great excitement was produced in the country, a few years since, by Daniel O'Connell, who sought a repeal of the union, and the partial independence of Ireland. He died on his way to Rome, 1847; and since that time, the people have been kept in subjection.
6. Divisions? 7. Inhabitants? 8. Towns? Describe Dublin. 9. History? What of Brian Boru? Dermot M'Murrough?
1. Characteristics.—France is celebrated for its fine climate, and for the cheerfulness and refinement of manners among the people.
2. Mountains.—The Cevennes form the central chain, diverging into various branches, called the Puy de Dome, the Cantal, Mont d' Or, Mountains of Auvergne, Puy de Sansi, &c. The last rises 6330 feet above the level of the sea, and is the highest peak. On the eastern border are the Vosges, the Jura Range, and, further south, the Alps, separating France from Switzerland and Italy. The Pyrenees separate France from Spain.
3. Rivers, &c.—France is a well-watered country. In the north is the Seine, 450 miles long, flowing through a populous and highly cultivated valley. It passes through Paris, and is navigable for small vessels to that city. The Loire, 600 miles long, the Garonne, 400 miles long, and the Rhone, 540 miles long, are all fine rivers, their banks studded with cities, and bordered by rich and cultivated lands. The Rhine, the Moselle, and the Meuse, have a part of their course in France. There are many other smaller rivers.
4. Coasts, Bays, &c.—On the north is the English Channel, called La Manche by the French. The Bay of Biscay, or Gulf of Gascony, is on the west. In the Mediterranean is the Gulf of Lyons. Here, on the coast of Provence, there are several good harbors. Along the Atlantic the shores are formed of sandy cliffs, presenting few havens; that of Cherbourg has been artificially formed by great labor.
5. Islands.—In the Bay of Biscay are the small islands of Oleron, Ré, Noirmontier, and Belle Isle. A little to the north is Ushant. On the southern coast are the Hyéres. Corsica, in the Mediterranean, fifty miles long and 100 from the French coast, belongs to France. Ajaccio, celebrated as the birth-place of Napoleon Bonaparte, is the capital.
6. Soil, Products, &c.—France may be called a
fertile country, though the soil varies. There are extensive
heaths along the Bay of Biscay. These are large sandy
tracts, called landes, producing nothing but broom, heath,
and juniper. The climate of the north is moist. There are
frequent light snows at Paris during winter, and the Seine
is frozen over. In the south, the climate is mild and
delightful. The harvests take place in June and July, and
the vintage in September. Oak, birch, elm, and ash are found
in the forests. Apples, pears, and plums are cultivated in
the north; peaches, figs, oranges, and lemons in the south.
Coal is abundant; but the mines are distant from the sea,
and little wrought. Silver, iron, cobalt, &c., are
sometimes
7. Industry, Canals, &c.—Two-thirds of the population of France are engaged in agriculture. The lands are minutely divided—there being five millions of landed proprietors. Agriculture is conducted with less skill than in England. The people excel in raising garden vegetables and fruit, and are the best wine-makers in the world. The commerce is not extensive for so large a country, but it is increasing. The products of the manufactures are exceedingly numerous, combining great excellence of quality with great elegance of taste. There are about ninety canals, and several important railroads. The great public roads are good. The diligence, a heavy, lumbering vehicle, is used for carrying passengers; the malleposte, a lighter vehicle, carries the mail.
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of France? Direction of the principal towns from Paris? On what river is Paris situated? Describe the following rivers in France : Seine; Loire; Garonne; Rhone On what waters are the following places situated : Calais; Havre; Bordeaux; Versailles; Lyons; Marseilles; Tours; Brest?
LESSON XCVII. 1. Characteristics of France? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers, &c.? 4. Coasts, bays, &c.? 5. Islands? 6. Soil, products, &c.? 7. Industry, canals, &c.? 8. Political divisions?
[begin surface 709]8. Political Divisions.—France was formerly divided into thirty-three provinces or governments, the names of which are connected with many historical events, and are still in popular use. They are as follows : in the north—Flanders, Artois, Picardy, Normandy, Isle of France, Champagne, Lorraine; in the centre—Orleannois, Touraine, Berry, Nivernais, Bourbonnais, Marche, Limousin, Auvergne; in the west—Maine, Anjou, Brittany, Poitou, Aunis, Saintonge and Angoumois; in the east—Alsace, Franche Comte, Burgundy, Lyonnais; and in the south—Languedoc, Roussillon, County of Foix, Guyenne and Gascony, Bearn, Dauphiny, County of Venaissin, Provence, Corsica. The following table contains the names of the present eighty-six departments:
A table listing the departments of France along with their areas, populations, and populations per square mile, and capitals.9. Inhabitants.—These are mostly descended from the ancient Celts, mixed with Burgundians in the center, Greeks at Marseilles, Franks, Goths, and Normans at the north. Over all these, the Roman sway of 500 years exercised a great influence. The nation was formerly divided into the nobility, the clergy, and the third estate, which comprised the great body of the people. The two former classes enjoyed important privileges and exemptions, but these are abolished. There is no great difference in the character of society in the higher and more cultivated classes of Europe. In France, however, and especially in Paris, it is distinguished for delicacy, polish, refinement, elegance, and ease. Taking the nation at large, the middle classes are equal to other countries in the strictness and elevated tone of their morals. The lower classes are industrious and temperate, and, though uneducated, have a considerable amount of information. Gayety, wit, and intelligence, with decency and politeness of manners, are common to all classes of the French. The women in France have a great influence on the character of society, and are distinguished for their grace and fascination of manner, rather than for personal beauty. In the country they engage with the men in the labors of the field. The French are more lively and excitable, more impetuous, and more fond of amusement, than the English or Germans; but those who should adopt the prejudiced representations or the exaggerated satires of British writers on the French character, and set down the nation as vain, frivolous, fickle, obsequious, and licentious, would find themselves, on visiting the country, much mistaken. The Frenchman is brave, high-spirited, generous, and honorable; no nation has produced greater military geniuses, or contributed more to the progress of learning and science. Through their genial character, the French have spread their literature over Europe, and made their language the language of courts throughout that quarter of the world.
Harvest in Normandy.10. Government.—Within the last few years, France
has been a kingdom, a republic, and an empire; and is now an empire, having Napoleon III. at its head. The legislature consists of a senate nominated by the emperor, and an assembly elected by the people. A large majority of the people are Catholics, though there is no religion established by law. A considerable portion of the upper classes among the Catholics are skeptics in religion; and throughout the country, there is not that steady love of truth, and constant recurrence to a rigid rule of right, that is so prominent a characteristic of the English. The rural Catholics appear to be sincere, and devoted to their religion. The army consists of about 400,000 men. The navy contains 226 sailing vessels and ninety-one steamers. The revenue is about $260,000,000 a year. The national debt is $800,000,000. The institutions for the higher degrees of education are numerous in all the departments. Only partial provision is made for the education of the masses. The quick intelligence of the people, and their social habits, supply, in some degree, the want of school education to the people at large.
11. Chief Towns.—Paris, the capital, is the most agreeable city in the world. It abounds in magnificent edifices, palaces, promenades, public gardens, fountains, and places of amusement. It is surrounded by two walls; the outer one is connected with fortifications. The houses are, for the most part, built of freestone, obtained from quarries beneath the city. These vast excavations, called the Catacombs, have been used as a depository of the bones of the dead, where they are arranged in a fanciful manner. The palace of the Tuileries was, for a long time, the chief residence of the kings. The national library contains four hundred thousand volumes. The national museum contains a most magnificent display of paintings and statuary. The national gardens embrace the most extensive and complete collection of specimens in the animal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms, in the world. This gay city, which at first seems only made for pleasure and amusement, will be found to contain within its walls some of the most scientific and profound scholars that any age has produced. Paris sets the fashions for Europe and America. An immense trade is carried on there in articles of dress, by milliners and mantuamakers. The female fashions are frequently changed, and every few months there is a new cut for male attire. Yet, while they are so fickle in the metropolis, in many parts of France the fashions are unchangeable. People may at all times be seen in Paris, from different parts of the kingdom, attired in the exact costumes of a century ago. Besides Paris, there are many other large and celebrated towns in France. Lyons is renowned for its rich silk goods, and gold and silver stuffs; Marseilles, as a seaport; Bordeaux, for its wines; Brest and Toulon, as naval stations; Rouen, for its varied manufactures; Montpelier, as the Cathedral of Rheims. resort of invalids on account of its charming climate; Versailles, for its magnificent palace; Strasbourg, for its cathedral, with the loftiest church spire in the world; and Rheims, for its ancient church, in which the kings of France were formerly crowned.
12. Ancient Geography.—The Greeks called this country Galatia; the Romans, Gallia. The first inhabitants were the Belgæ, who occupied what is now called Belgium, and were mingled with the adjacent German tribes; the Gauls, or Celts, who peopled the north; and the Aquitani, who dwelt in the southwest. The latter, bordering on Spain, were blent with the tribes of that country. Ancient Gaul was, therefore, considered as divided into three parts, occupied by these three great nations; but after the conquest by the Romans, the country was divided into four parts, called the Four Gauls. These were as follows: A table listing the divisions of France with their number of provinces, chief cities, and modern names.
It will be understood that this last division embraced portions of Belgium, France, and Germany. Of the three great races or nations who appear to have possessed ancient Gaul, the Celts were by far the most numerous. These, like the Belgæ and Aquitani, were each divided into a great number of tribes, as were the Indians of our country when it was first discovered.
13. History.—It is probable that France was inhabited for 2000 years before the Christian era; but for many centuries the people were few in number, and of wild and savage habits. About the year 630 B. C., it appears that the Cimbri, a populous nation dwelling on the banks of the Euxine, were driven westward by some great movement in Central Asia. They passed into France, where they settled in great numbers. They conquered the few people whom they found there, and formed the body of the nation, which took the name of Gaul from the Romans. They were of Celtic origin, and brought with them the Druidical religion. They soon became numerous, and made several incursions into the Greek and Roman territories, as early as the third and fourth centuries B. C. It appears that
9. Inhabitants? 10. Government? 11. Chief towns? Give a description of Paris. 12. Ancient geography? 13. History?
26 [begin surface 727]the Phœnicians, attracted by the rich mines of Gaul, traded along its coasts at an early date; and in 590, a Greek colony was founded at Marseilles, whose descendants constitute a considerable portion of the present inhabitants of that city. Other tribes, of various descent, were settled in different parts; the Celts, however, still forming the great body of the nation. About the year 50 B. C., Julius Cæsar completed his subjugation of Gaul, after nine bloody campaigns. The country was rapidly transformed by contact with the customs and laws of Rome. There were now present, at that capital, Gallic orators, Gallic scholars, and Gallic generals. Rome, in return, sent her refinements, her religion, laws, and arts. The Gauls ceased to be savages, and the country was marked with cities, villas, temples, and roads. The mixture of the two races, Italian and Celtic, is shown in the French language, which is a compound of the Celtic and Latin tongues, sprinkled, however, with the dialects of other tribes. In the fifth century, the Roman Empire was crushed, and Gaul was overrun by the Burgundians, Visigoths, and finally by the Franks, from the borders of the Rhine. It is said that a portion of these were led into the country, A. D. 420, by their king, named Pharamond. Other portions of the tribe followed, and the Franks became the ruling people, giving the name of France to the country. Clovis, a descendant of Meroveus, became king in 481, and thus the kingdom of France was first established. In 496, Clovis was baptized at Rheims, and thus Christianity was established in the country. He was an able sovereign, but he passed his whole time in the midst of soldiers—more like a chief of banditti than a king. His successors, forming the Merovingian Dynasty, reigned over France till 741, when they were succeeded by the Carlovingian Dynasty, which commenced with Charles Martel, son of Pepin, mayor of the palace, who ascended the throne at that date. He was succeeded by his sons, Charles and Carloman, 768. The former died, and the latter, afterward called Charlemagne, became sole master of the empire of the Franks. He was the most celebrated warrior and statesman of his age. He was born at Saltzburg, in Bavaria, and he fixed his court at Aix-la-Chapelle, now in Prussia. His kingdom included not only France, but a part of Germany. He greatly extended it; and at his death, in 840, the empire included Italy, all Germany, Hungary, Bohemia, Poland, Prussia, Holland, Belgium, half of Spain, and all France. The Carlovingians were succeeded by the Capetian Dynasty, which commenced with Hugh Capet, A. D. 1017. This race of kings descended to our own time, giving sovereigns to several European kingdoms. The last of the line, in France, was Louis Philippe, driven from the throne in 1848. On the accession of Hugh Capet, a great part of France was occupied by dukes or barons, who were almost equal to the king in authority. For nearly three centuries, the history of France presents a contest between the crown and these feudal lords. In the end, the latter were humbled, and the supreme power became centered in the hands of the sovereign. The Crusades produced a great excitement in France, and here the institution of Chivalry attained its highest glory. From the year 1328 to the year 1430, various wars were carried on between England and France. The former several times invaded the latter, and at one period claimed dominion over that country. During this period, the celebrated Maid of Orleans appeared in history. She delivered Charles VII. from his enemies, and after having performed the most wonderful exploits, she was captured, and executed on a charge of sorcery, 1430. During the reign of Louis XI., who was a suspicious and despicable tyrant, and who died in 1483, the ascendency of the crown over the nobles was completed. During the reign of Charles IX., the celebrated Massacre of St. Bartholomew's Eve occurred, August 24th, 1572. For eight days and nights, blood flowed in the streets of the larger cities, and the gutters were choked with dead bodies. This was a scheme of the Catholics to annihilate the Huguenots, or Protestants. The king himself, from his window, in Paris, shot down these people, as if they had been so many wolves or foxes. A hundred thousand persons were sacrificed in this ruthless butchery. The Pope of
What of the early history of France? Julius Cæsar? Clovis? Charles Martel? Charlemagne? Capet? St. Bartholomew's Eve?
Rome, Gregory VIII., deemed these glorious events. He went in solemn procession to give thanks for the slaughter of the heretics, and caused medals to be struck in commemoration of it. In 1594, Henry IV., the favorite of the French nation, came to the throne. During his reign of sixteen years, France rapidly advanced in power and prosperity. On the 14th of May, 1610, Henry was stabbed to the heart by a fanatic, named Ravaillac. His son, nine years old, came to the throne; the queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, being declared regent. In 1621, the celebrated Richelieu became prime minister. During his able, but despotic administration, France was elevated to the hight of power, both at home and abroad. Louis XIII. died in 1642, and his son, Louis XIV., surnamed the Great, succeeded, being only four years old. When he reached his majority, he assumed the active charge of government, and during his long and vigorous reign of seventy-three years, he continued personally to direct the affairs of the kingdom. He engrossed the whole power into his own hands, making it his boast that he was himself the state. He carried on wars with various countries, promoted literature and the arts, and received from his people the flattering title of " Le Grand Monarque." This is considered the most brilliant period of the French monarchy. Many of the sumptuous buildings of Paris, and the stupendous palace of Versailles, were built during this reign. Nevertheless, the glory of Louis XIV. was a hollow triumph. The enormous expenses of his reign laid the foundation for the French Revolution, which burst out with terrific violence in 1789. During the agitation which followed, the king, Louis XVI., and the queen, Marie Antoinette, perished on the scaffold. All Europe was involved in a bloody conflict. Napoleon Bonaparte at last gained the ascendency. In 1804, he was declared hereditary Emperor of France. His power was now nearly supreme in Europe. In 1812, he marched against Russia with a splendid army of 400,000 men. He was driven back by the severity of the climate and the vigorous attacks of the enemy—nearly his whole army being destroyed; 50,000 only returned. Napoleon reached Paris, and immediately made preparations to meet the terrible shock which now threatened him from the embattled armies of all Northern Europe. He was defeated, and the allies took possession of Paris, March 31, 1814. The proud palace of the Tuileries was inhabited by soldiers, and the superb gardens were the camp of the Cossacks of Russia. Napoleon resigned his throne, and was exiled to the little island of Elba, on the coast of Italy. Here he remained till March, 1815, when he suddenly returned to France. His old soldiers rallied around him, and as he entered Paris in triumph, Louis XVIII., the restored Bourbon king, fled out on the other side. Napoleon reigned for 100 days. On the 18th of June he met the allied armies on the field of Waterloo, commanded by the Duke of Wellington. The conflict was terrible, and the eyes of the whole world were on the issue. Bonaparte was defeated, and exiled to St. Helena, where he died in 1821. Louis XVIII. reigned till 1824, when he died, and was succeeded by his brother, Charles X. The latter showed despotic tendencies, and was driven from the country, after a revolution of three days, July, 1830. Louis Philippe succeeded, and reigned nearly eighteen years, when he also was obliged to fly, in consequence of the revolution of 1848, provoked by his usurpations. In the autumn of this year, a republican constitution was adopted, and Louis Napoleon Bonaparte was elected President for 4 years. On the 2d Dec., 1851, he suppressed the constitution, and was subsequently elected President for 10 years.
14. Republic of Andorre.—This is a neutral territory, on the southern slope of the Pyrenees, thirty-six miles long and thirty wide, consisting of three small valleys, with 2000 inhabitants. They are devoted Catholics, are generally ignorant, and only a small part can either read or write. Though they speak the Catalan language, they are rather attached to the French. They owe to Charlemagne, their independence which has been maintained to the present time. They are considered under the protection of the governments of Spain and France.
What of Henry IV.? Richelieu? Louis XIV.? Napoleon? Louis XVIII.? Charles X.? &c., &c. 14. Republic of Andorre?
According to the statistical tables of Dr. Petermann, of Berlin, the population of Spain (or more properly the subjects of the Spanish monarchy), may be numbered at 15,514,397. Of these, 263,216 are in the Balearic Islands, and 216,397 in the Canary Islands.
1. Characteristics.—Spain, often called the Peninsula, is noted for its beautiful climate, its romantic scenery, and its rich productions.
2. Mountains, &c.—Spain, occupying the greater part of the peninsula at the southwestern extremity of Europe, is more diversified in its surface than any other country of equal extent in this quarter of the world. The interior is a vast table-land, occupying one-half of the whole area, and is nearly surrounded by mountains. Of these, there are five chains, called the Spanish Sierras. First, on the north, extending along the Bay of Biscay, and separating Spain from France, are the Pyrenees, 11,168 feet high. Second, the Guadarama, Gredos, and Gata, between the Douro and Tagus, 10,500 feet high. Third, the Toledo Mountains, between the Tagus and Guadiana. Fourth, the Sierra Morena Mountains, between the Guadiana and Guadalquivir. Fifth, the Sierra Nevada, extending from Carthagena to Cadiz, 11,670 feet high, and the highest point in the province.
3. Rivers, &c.—The chief rivers of Spain are the Ebro, flowing into the Mediterranean; the Guadalquivir and the Guadiana, flowing into the Atlantic; and the Tagus and Duero, or Douro, flowing through Portugal into the Atlantic. Few of these are navigable except for small boats, a short distance from their mouth. The only lakes in Spain are the Albufera, in Valencia, and the Mar Menor, in Murcia. The coasts, having an extent of 1800 miles on the Atlantic and Mediterranean, are but little indented. The chief capes are Ortegal, Finisterre, and St. Vincent, on the Atlantic, and Gibraltar, De Gatt, and San Martin, in the Mediterranean. The Balearic Islands, consisting of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and Fromentera, with some smaller ones lying in the Mediterranean, belong to Spain. Majorca, 100 miles from the coast, and 40 miles in extent, each way, is the principal. It has the valuable harbor of Port Mahon. These islands produce oranges, olives, wine, &c.
4. Vegetable Productions.—There are pine forests on the different ranges of mountains. Among the eight species of oak which Spain produces, are the evergreen oak, with edible fruit; the cork-tree; and the cochineal oak, upon which is found an insect which yields a fine crimson color. The spart, or Spanish Cork Forest. Extent of Portugal, 37,864 sq. m.—Pop., 3,814,771.—Pop. to sq. m., 101. Modern kingdom of Spain founded, 1474. Kingdom of Portugal founded, 1139. Extent of Spain, 187,288 sq. m.—Pop., 14,216,219.—Pop. to sq. m., 79. A map of Spain and Portugal, labeling major cities and bodies of water. Portugal is colored pink. broom, a flowering shrub, is braided or woven into forty different articles. Dates, olives, figs, grapes, grain, hemp, and sugar-cane are among the products of agriculture.
5. Curiosities.—Montserrat, a detached eminence of the Pyrenees, thirty miles northwest of Barcelona, consists of a cluster of sharp peaks, 3300 feet high, always capped with clouds. Here are fourteen hermitages, occupied by monks, upon different parts of the hights; and about half way up is a magnificent convent of Benedictines. The scenery here is remarkably grand.
6. Animals.—The plains and mountains abound in game. The wild boar, the bear, and various kinds of deer, are found in the mountains of Galicia and the Asturian forests. Hares, rabbits, partridges, flamingoes, and bustards are common in Andalusia. The wolf still frequents nearly all the wooded and mountainous districts of the country. The chamois and the lynx find a shelter in the Pyrenees, and the other mountains of the east. The moufflon is found in the kingdom of Murcia. The genet, porcupine, scorpion, and chameleon may also be mentioned. Cantharides, tarentulas , and musquetoes abound. Estremadura and Andalusia are sometimes desolated by swarms of locusts from the African coast.
7. Minerals.—Spain supplied the ancient inhabitants of Europe with the greater part of the precious metals they possessed, but her mineral products are small at the present day. Mines of quicksilver are wrought at Almaden and La Mancha, and iron is furnished by the provinces of Biscay. Coal is wrought in Catalonia and the Asturias. Sulphur is found in the neighborhood of Cadiz. Mineral springs are numerous; but regular watering-places and
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Spain? Capital? Extent? Population, &c.? Direction of the principal places from Madrid? What three islands belong to Spain? Their situation? Describe the Ebro; Guadalquivir; Tagus; Duero; Guadiana.
LESSON XCVIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Rivers, &c.? 4. Vegetable productions? 5. Curiosities? 6. Animals?
[begin surface 731]bathing establishments do not exist in Spain. A hospital is the only common accompaniment.
8. Climate.—This country lies in the southern part of the temperate zone, and the cold is never excessive, even in the northern parts. In the south, the heats of midsummer would be intolerable but for the sea-breeze, which begins to blow at nine in the morning, and continues till five in the evening. The interior is so elevated, as to be much cooler than might be expected from the latitude. The provinces along the Mediterranean are the paradise of this kingdom. An everlasting spring seems to reign in this delightful district. The sky of Andalusia is pure azure and gold. The inhabitants of Seville affirm that a day was never known when the sun did not shine upon their city. Two kinds of winds are sometimes unpleasant in Spain. The Gallego, coming from the mountains of the northwest, is piercing and cold; the Solano, a southwest wind from Africa, is so hot as to relax the human system, and produce giddiness and inflammation.
9. Soil.—The greater part of the country, except the mountain ridges, is fertile, and covered with a luxuriant vegetation. The fruits and plants offer a greater variety than is afforded by any other European region of the same extent. The land is everywhere favorable to the cultivation of the vine. Spain may be regarded as naturally the most fruitful country of Europe.
10. Political Divisions.—The following table shows the old as well as the existing provinces into which they have been divided: A table listing the old and new provinces of Spain, the populations of the new provinces, the chief towns of each province, and the population of those towns.
11. Face of the Country.—Spain is an elevated, mountainous, and beautifully picturesque country. It exhibits an alternation of mountain ridges and wide plains, everywhere watered by rivers and small streams. The hills are covered with vineyards, and the valleys display the most luxuriant vegetation. The southern part looks like a garden in perpetual bloom. In external beauty, few countries in the world equal Spain.
12. Industry, &c.—The manufactures of Spain have declined. Saltpeter, gunpowder, cotton, fire-arms, tobacco, porcelain, and glass are made by government. The other manufactures include silks, cottons, woolens, leather, cutlery, &c. Great attention is paid to the culture of grapes. Wheat, maize, barley, rice, hemp, flax, soda, honey, wax, and silk are also produced. Oranges, figs, olives, and melons are largely cultivated. The merino sheep are bred with care, and amount to five or six millions. The horses of Andalusia are celebrated. The mules and asses are also remarkable for beauty and size. Goats are abundant in the table-lands. The commercial advantages are great, but commerce is injured by extensive smuggling. The exports include wool, wine, brandy, oil, fruits, iron, lead, mercury, and salt. The roads in Spain are generally bad. Wheel-carriages are little used, and internal traveling and transport are effected by mules. There are several canals, but they are mostly in an unfinished state. There is one railroad, fifteen and a half miles long, from Barcelona to Mataro, opened in 1848.
Merino Sheep.13. Inhabitants.—The Spanish nation is derived from several races—the Celtic, Roman, Gothic, and Arabic. The distinctions of character in the different provinces are striking. In general, the Spaniard is temperate, honest, and devout. The upper classes are grave; the lower gay, witty, frugal, good-humored, and courteous. The favorite amusements are dancing and bull-fights. The food is Spanish Bull-Fight. meager. Chocolate is the common drink. Milk, butter, and cheese are little used. The wines are drank by all classes. Sherry, Malaga, and Catalonia are well known in foreign countries. In the commercial towns, the dress is similar to that of other European cities. The old Spanish
7. Minerals? 8. Climate? 9. Soil? 10. Political Divisions? 11. Face of the country? 12. Industry? 13. Inhabitants?
[begin surface 732]cloak is still worn in Castile. The ladies seldom appear in public but in the national dress, which is black. The mantilla, a rich black scarf, is thrown over the head, displaying a large and costly comb. Neither bonnet nor ribbons are generally worn by ladies. The French fashions are beginning, however, to be followed. The Roman Catholic religion is established by law. The Inquisition, introduced in the time of Ferdinand and Isabella, exercised a terrible power for several centuries, during which it subjected thousands to torture, and other thousands to cruel and painful deaths. This has been abolished, and the church lands, which were formerly of great value, have been recently confiscated to the use of the state. Most of the great monasteries and nunneries have been suppressed. Education is very little diffused, there being no schools for the lower classes except in the larger towns. The children of the rich are educated in France and other countries. There are fourteen universities, but these are only attended by a few students of law and medicine. The Spanish language is a mixture of Latin, Gothic, and Arabic elements, and is remarkable for its dignity. The most famous Spanish writer is Cervantes, the author of Don Quixote. Calderon and Lope de Vega excelled in dramatic literature, and Ercilla in poetry.
14. Government.—The government, established in 1837, is a constitutional monarchy, Isabella being proclaimed queen. The legislature is called the Cortes. Each province has a government for the superintendence of its internal affairs. The laws are reduced to a regular code. The army consists of about 140,000 men. The navy embraces about thirty vessels of war. The public debt is $800,000,000; the annual revenue is about $50,000,000.
15. Towns.—Madrid, the capital, on a small branch of the Tagus, is a magnificent city. Cadiz, on the island of Leon, is the great center of commerce. Seville, once the residence of the Moorish kings, and still embellished with their beautiful structures, has some trade, and considerable manufactures of silk, woolen, and tobacco. Granada is renowned for the Alhambra, a palace of the Moorish sovereigns, seeming rather like the gorgeous creations of fancy, than of art. Barcelona, Saragossa, Cordova, and Valencia are all interesting places. Gibraltar is celebrated for its fortress on a rock 1400 feet in hight, and commanding the passage of the straits between Europe and Africa. It belongs to the English, and is perforated like a honeycomb with military works, walks, passages, and covered ways. It seems bristling with cannon and bayonets, and is deemed the strongest fortification in Europe. The town stands at the foot of the rock, and has considerable commerce.
16. History.—The earliest inhabitants of Spain, like those of Gaul and Britain, were of the Celtic race. The country was called Iberia by the Greeks, and the people Celtiberi. The country was also called Hesperia. The Phœnicians traded along the coast as early as 1000 B. C. The Carthaginians followed at a later date, founded colonies, and wrought the rich silver mines. The Romans conquered portions of the country, and finally wrested the whole of it from Carthage. In the time of Augustus, the whole territory, including Portugal, had become a Roman province; the people quietly submitting to the government, and adopting the Roman language, manners, and customs. Prior to the fall of Rome, several tribes of Goths rushed into the kingdom. The Gothic monarchy was founded by Ataulph, 419 A. D. The Saracens, the successors of Mahomet, having overrun Northern Africa, established a powerful kingdom at Fez. Invited over to Spain by Count Julian, they crossed the Straits of Gibraltar, spread their immense hosts over Andalusia, and defeated and slew the king, Roderic, in battle. They thus terminated the Gothic kingdom, and established the Saracen or Moorish empire, 714 A. D. They now crossed the Pyrenees, and appeared about to overrun all Europe, when they were met upon the plains of Aquitaine by Charles Martel, and defeated in one of the bloodiest battles ever recorded in history. Thus checked in their progress, they still remained in occupation of the finest portions of the Spanish Peninsula. The Spaniards continued to hold parts of the country, and, under a succession of able chiefs, maintained a constant war against the usurping infidels. The celebrated Cid, Don Rodrigo Wars of the Cid. Diaz de Bivar, who flourished about 1060, performed prodigies of valor in these conflicts, and has ever since been the hero of Spanish romance. In 1474, Ferdinand and Isabella, who had reigned in separate kingdoms, now united their thrones. In 1492, the Moorish kingdom, reduced to the single province of Granada, was conquered. The Spanish monarchy now extended to every part of the peninsula. Columbus discovered America in 1492, and Spain entered upon the most brilliant era of its annals. The extent of her colonies, in different parts of the world, was so great, that the sun was said never to set upon her dominions. Charles V. became king of Spain in 1615; and two years after, was elected Emperor of Germany. He maintained the ascendency of Spain during several wars, and retired to the privacy of monastic life, making his son Philip his successor, 1558. This gloomy bigot was husband of Queen Mary of England, and it was he who sent against that country the Invincible Armada, which proved so abortive, in the time of Queen Elizabeth. From this period, Spain gradually declined. She lost most of her foreign possessions,
14. Government? 15. Towns? Describe Madrid; Seville, &c. 16. History? What of the Saracens? Ferdinand and Isabella
and now holds only Cuba, Porto Rico, and a few smaller islands in different parts of the world. In 1808, Napoleon seized upon the crown, and placed it upon the head of his brother Joseph. The Spaniards, aided by the British under Lord Wellington, compelled the French to withdraw, and Ferdinand VII. became king in 1814. He died in 1833, and his daughter Isabella, an infant, was proclaimed queen. The country was disturbed by civil war, but this ceased in 1839; since which period it has enjoyed tranquillity.
1. Characteristics.—Portugal is a small kingdom, lying between Spain and the Atlantic.
2. Mountains.—The territory is traversed by several mountain ranges, of which the Serra Estrella and the Serra Monchique are the principal. Their loftiest peaks are 7865 feet high. Both north and south of these are fine plains watered by the rivers Minho, Douro, Tagus, and Guadiana, which enter the country from Spain, and flow west to the Atlantic. There are no lakes, but several salt marshes. The coast line, of 500 miles, presents several fine harbors.
3. Climate, &c.—The climate is mild and healthy. Earthquakes occur in the south, near Lisbon. The soil is naturally rich, and the country picturesque. Husbandry is conducted in a slovenly manner, and there are few passable roads. Grain, hemp, rice, olives, oranges, lemons, and figs are cultivated with success. The making of wine is the most important branch of industry. The produce of the vineyards watered by the Upper Douro, termed port wine, is a staple product. There are extensive forests of oak, chestnut, and cork. Mules and asses are the chief beasts of burden. Cattle, sheep, goats, and hogs are numerous. Iron, marble, and salt are the chief mineral products. There are a few manufactures of arms, porcelain, wool, cotton, jewelry, glass, paper, and silks. The commerce is chiefly carried on by the English through Lisbon and Oporto.
4. Political Divisions.
A table listing the political divisions of Portugal, including the old and new provinces, and the chief towns of those provinces. The populations of the provinces and towns are also provided.5. Inhabitants.—The Portuguese are of the same origin as the Spaniards; but they formed an independent nation and a distinct language. There is a university at Coimbra, and two or three colleges. Elementary schools are numerous. The chief name in Portuguese literature is that of Camoens, the poet, author of the Lusiad.
6. Government, &c.—The government is a constitutional monarchy. The army consists of 28,000 men; the navy of 36 small vessels. Revenue, $12,000,000; debt, $80,000,000. The established religion is Catholic.
7. Towns.—Lisbon, the capital, is situated at the mouth of the Tagus. On approaching it, it appears like a splendid city, but the streets are, in fact, narrow and ill-paved, and the houses gloomy. Every part is so filthy that the air is filled with the most disgusting effluvia. Various kinds of vermin, musquetoes, scolopendra, and red ants torment the inhabitants. In 1755, the city was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, in the midst of which it took fire, presenting a scene of indescribable horror. Thirty thousand inhabitants perished during this convulsion. The environs of the city are exceedingly beautiful. The other principal towns of Portugal are Coimbra, celebrated for its university; Oporto, renowned for its trade in wine, oranges, and lemons; Setubal , or St. Ubes, Braga, Lamego, Evora , Braganza , and Batalha.
8. History.—The early inhabitants of Portugal were of the same stock as those of Spain. The country was considered by the ancients as a part of Spain. The Carthaginians early traded to the coast, where they planted several colonies. It was conquered by the Romans about 200 B. C., who formed a province under the name of Lusitania. It remained quietly under the Roman dominion till the fifth century, when it was overrun by the Suevi, Visigoths, &c. It was conquered by the Arabs in 715, and afterward fell under the dominion of the Spanish kings. In 1139, Alphonse I. won a victory over the Moors, and was crowned king of Portugal by his soldiers on the field of battle. In 1348, one-half of the inhabitants died of the plague. During the fifteenth century, under John I. and his sons, the Portuguese excited the admiration of the world by their military, maritime, and commercial achievements. They discovered the greater part of the southern and western portions of Africa. The Cape of Good Hope was discovered by Diaz, in 1483, and in 1498 Vasco de Gama sailed around it with a Portuguese fleet, and reached India. Here the Portuguese founded several splendid colonies, which brought immense riches to the mother-country. Brazil was discovered in 1550. At this point, Portugal was one of the richest and most powerful kingdoms in Europe. Owing to the incompetence of its sovereigns, it now speedily declined. In 1580, it was conquered by Philip II. of Spain, and annexed to that country. It recovered its independence in 1668, but has since continued an inferior kingdom. In 1807, the French invaded the country, and the royal family escaped to Brazil. The French were expelled with the aid of the British, after a bloody conflict, and the king, Pedro, returned in 1821, Brazil becoming independent under his son in 1822. Pedro died in 1826, and the crown was usurped by Don Miguel, his brother. The Emperor of Brazil, who was now regent of Portugal, caused him to be expelled, and placed his daughter Maria on the throne, A. D. 1834. The country has since continued in rather a disturbed state. The vast colonies of Portugal are reduced to some small settlements in India, and the Pacific islands of Solor, Timor, and Midoro, on the coast of Guinea; Senegambia, Cape Verde, and Mozambique, with Prince's and St. Thomas Islands, in the West Indies.
Exercises on the Map (p. 204).—Boundaries of Portugal? Extent? Population? Population to square mile? Capital? Describe the Tagus. Where is Oporto? St. Ubes?
LESSON XCVII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Climate? 4. Political Divisions? 5. Inhabitants? 6. Government? 7. Towns? 8. History?
1. Characteristics.―This country, extending 700 miles from Sicily to the Alps, is renowned for its beautiful climate, its fine scenery, and its remarkable history.
2. Mountains.—The Rhetian Alps occupy the northern and the northwestern border. The Apennines extend through the whole peninsula, the loftiest peak being Mount Corno, the elevation of which is 9500 feet.
3. Rivers.—There are numerous rivers, but they are all small except the Po, which is 500 miles long, and drains nearly the whole northern part. The chief lakes are Maggiore and Como; the former forty miles long and two wide, and the latter thirty-five by three wide.
4. Shores.—The shores, extending about 2000 miles, present a very irregular outline. The peninsula, which resembles a boot in form, is inclosed by the Mediterranean Sea and its branches. The borders of this sea have been crowded with towns and cities from a very early period. The facility of maritime intercourse between Italy and the coasts of the Mediterranean was a great cause of the extended dominion and immense wealth of ancient Rome.
5. Islands.—Corsica, belonging to France, has been already noticed. Elba, belonging to Tuscany, is seventeen miles long, with a population of 18,000. Here Napoleon was exiled from May 3d, 1814, to February 26th, 1815. Sardinia has a mountainous surface, and contains 9000 sq. miles. There are several small islands along its shores, whose population is 550,000. It was colonized by the Carthaginians, but taken by the Romans, and followed their fortunes. It now forms part of the Sardinian kingdom. Sicily, 185 miles long, is the largest and the finest island in the Mediterranean. Mount Etna, 10,872 feet high, is one of the most celebrated volcanoes in the world. The island is prolific, producing sugar, wheat, grapes, oranges, dates, &c. Sicily was the seat of many flourishing Greek colonies. It fell successively under the Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, Greek emperors, Saracens, Normans, French, and Spaniards. In 1736, it was annexed to Naples, of which it now constitutes a part.
Rome founded 753 B. C. Extent of Italy, 116,479 square miles. Pop., 24,711,785. Pop to sq. m., 212.2. Roman Empire destroyed by the Barbarians 476 A. D. A map of Italy, including a table listing the states of Italy with their areas in square miles, populations, populations to square miles, and chief towns.6. Products, &c.—The vegetable products are extremely varied. To the north, near the Alps, the climate is cool; to the south it is hot. The sirocco and libeccio, burning winds from Africa, afflict the south in summer. The soil is generally fertile. Among the animals are deer, and various small quadrupeds. The buffalo is domesticated. The viper, asp, scorpion, and tar ntula are common. Fish are abundant in the rivers. Sponges and corals are taken along
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Italy? Extent? Population? Population to square mile? Where is the Gulf of Venice? Genoa? Pyrenees mountains? Island of Corsica? Sardinia? Elba? Lipari Isles? Sicily? Malta? Rome? Naples? Florence? Syracuse? Mount Vesuvius? Direction of principal towns from Rome? What object does the peninsula of Italy resemble?
Let the pupil be asked questions on the ancient map of Italy, giving the ancient names to different places.
LESSON XCVIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers and lakes? 4. Shores? 5. Corsica? Elba? Sardinia?
[begin surface 735]Here we are in the gayest city in the world,—gay in its white houses, its laughing skies, its dancing bay, its harlequin costumes, its cheerful, careless inhabitants—the home of maccaroni and punchinello. But let us first say farewell to Rome—the mournful, the eternal.
And why is Rome mournful? Is it not in the centre of favored Italy, upon the banks of the classic Tiber, and on the seven hills, each crowned with deathless fame? Certainly, and yet who could visit it without feeling his mind oppressed and saddened by the monuments of decay and death, which overshadow the modern city? Who can look on the Coliseum, the Forum, the Palace of the Cæsars, the Baths of Caracalla, the Aqueduct of CLAUDIUS, the Arch of CONSTANTINE, the boastful yet beautiful column of TROJAN—the scenes of Roman luxury, the symbols of Roman pride, the vestiges of Roman glory, the witnesses to the retribution of Roman crime, all now mingled or mingling with the vulgar earth, and not feel the heart clothed in sackcloth and ashes? Who can look on Pagan and Papal Rome, side by side, the one in its decay, the other in its pride, and not feel rebuked by the grandeur of the first and the littleness of the last? What a mighty spirit was that—savage, cruel and barbarian though it was—which reared these works, awful even in their ruins, and how like owls, and bats, and jackdaws—things of darkness and of evil omen—is the Papacy, with its flocks of monks and priests, performing their mummeries in the dark nooks of ancient temples and tottering shrines,—thus seeking to derive to their fictitious saints and madonnas a divinity, a sanctity from wrecks of objects once consecrated to Venus and Jove! How pitiful does it seem, to see the Coliseum converted into a shop for selling indulgences, (200 days of bliss for each kiss upon the central cross;) to see the Capitoline Hill become the residence of the Most Sacred Wooden Baby; to see St. Peter's itself not only pretending to hold the bones of the crucified Apostle, but actually containing a brass Jupiter, whose great toe diffuses beatitude on all who touch it with the lips!
Is it not calculated to disturb the reason, to unsettle our faith, and lead us to doubt even Providence and Christianity, when we see the centre of what claims to be the only true religion—the residence of its head, of him who assumes to be the vicegerent of Christ on earth—thus the seat of superstitions, impostures, and hypocrisy, while it is behind all the rest of the world in the spirit of improvement, intelligence, and progress? Is it not fearful to think that here, in the very metropolis, the focus of Christianity, liberty of thought and worship, liberty of body, mind and soul, are proscribed? Is it not mournful to think that Christ's successor is tolerated in Rome, only because he has four thousand French bayonets to protect him from his own subjects? Is it not sad to reflect that he who is at the head of 200,000,000 of Christians, whose word is law for earth and heaven—for time and eternity—dare not permit a free press, well knowing that the liberty of discussion would drive him into exile, and explode his whole system? Is it not mournful thus to see the might, majesty, and dominion of Paganism succeeded and superseded by the littleness of Popery?
And why is Rome Eternal? Of all spots on earth, Rome teaches most emphatically the transitory nature of earthly things. Nowhere is the battle of life, ever ending in death, so fearfully, so visibly set before the mind. Old Rome is gone. Notwithstanding the grandeur of some of its ruins, they are still so few, so scattered and so decayed, that the imagination with difficulty recalls their uses, and but dimly and feebly repeoples the scenes they occupy with the Cæsars and Ciceros who once strode so proudly amongst them. The lapse of time is so great—the signs of decay are so impressive, that old Rome never can live again, even in the mind's eye. It is dead and sepulchred, and all but faint traces of its history is forever buried. Modern Rome reflects not its image; it does not even cover its site. The Pope is no more CÆSAR than is the Corso of the Forum. PIUS IX., who runs away before his own worshipers, and only comes back at the heels of his French deliverers, will not fill the niche of NUMA POMPILIUS, nor of ADRIAN, in the Pantheon; the miraculous baby of the Ara Cæli is a poor substitute for the Capitoline Jupiter, though it occupy its place. The present pitiful statesmen of Rome, who fear to light its streets with gas, who dread the telegraph, who tremble at railroads, are not even shadows of the mighty men who spread the broad Campagna with aqueducts, and bound the world together by their imperishable roads. Rome is not eternal; ancient Rome is gone, and modern Rome is its semblance only in name. Even the spiritual dominion which it wields, becomes daily more attenuated, and must ere long vanish before the light of a purified and regenerated Christianity. The time cannot be far distant when mankind will prefer to read Christ's Sermon on the Mount, from the simple and beautiful text, rather than receive it through Latin breviaries, mummed over by priests, and embellished with crossings, kneelings, turnings, bendings, marchings, risings, fallings, and interludes of incense and bell-ringings.
And so farewell to Rome—the Ancient and the Modern—the Mighty, yet the Little—the Majestic, yet the Mournful. On the 15th of March, at 10 o'clock in the morning, we took our departure—six of us in a Vettura, with four horses, and ANTONIO BARONTE for a vetturino. We crept across the Campagna—the tall broken arches of the Claudian aqueduct on our left, appearing against the Northern sky like a drove of gigantic mastodons marching on Rome. On our right, along the Appian Way, rose the shapeless ruins of villas, palaces and tombs—the spectres of departed glory. The whole Campagna—the belt surrounding Rome—presents a slightly-undulating level, without trees, and generally without present cultivation—rendered desolate, as I have before explained, by the invisible calamity known as malaria. Here and there a huge mass of crumbling brick shows the site of former dwellings; but there are no dwellings now, save, from time to time, a shelter for cattle and horses, which graze in large flocks upon the plain. The fields are alive with sheep; but as far as the eye can reach no human beings are met upon the waste except shepherds and herdsmen, and even these do not sleep in the infected tract. A few patches of wheat are seen, but all the rest is pasturage, or a dead, wild waste.
Behind us was Rome, imbedded deep in the valley, and before us, high in the range of the Appenines, was Albano. The [illegible]ter we soon reached, and while the horses [illegible]eathed, we climbed the heights and looked dow[illegible]on the lake. On our way we were attended by [illegible] troop of beggars, among whom was a boy, dri[illegible]ing with rags, who played a very jolly sort of [illegible]ka on his under jaw. An occasional pop fro[illegible]is inflated cheeks added a very droll accompaniment. The Lake of Albano is set deep in a bow-sh[illegible]ed valley, the hills rising steeply around, 460 f[illegible] above its level. It is very beautiful, though it [illegible]d not put me into the raptures set forth by the Hand[illegible]ok MURRAY as due to the occasion. The P[illegible]e's palace is a plain building, finely situated, and [illegible]resenting beautiful views. The outlet or emiss[illegible]y, built by the old Romans to prevent the lake fro[illegible] bursting its borders, is the great curiosity of t[illegible]s region. It is a subterranean canal, a mile and a half in length.
By nightfall we reached Cisterno, where by new contract with the vetturino, we were to lodge. This is an indifferent place of 1,500 inhabitants, which has the honor of being near the site of a people called Little Frogs by CICERO. The next morning the vetturino paid the bill, we having decided to try the plan of being cared for by him at a price fixed before starting. ANTONIO BARONTE, being an honest man, and in every way a good fellow, we lived well and at a very reasonable rate too. We started at five, for the day's work was a long one. As we rolled merrily up and down the hills we saw the gradual passage from night to morning, always a cheering and elevating spectacle in fine weather, and to those who, like ourselves, had long dwelt in cities, possessing the startling effect of novelty. The first gray tint of dawn, as it came over the Appenines to the left—the invisible passing of the dun mist into azure along the skirts of the mountains—the gathering of a few feathery clouds in the horizon, and their sudden glow as the sun rose full upon them; the hoary breath of the valley, which now seemed like an outspreading lake—the gradual hum of men and birds and cattle saluting the day—all passed before us with that surprise and delight which incense-breathing-morn brings to the laggard children of towns. A little girl of our party, about nine years old, watched the whole march of nature with great interest, and an apparent appreciation of its real sublimity, as if the event now occurred for the first time.
As the sun climbed the Appenines, and shone fairly upon us, we entered the Pontine Marshes, so strongly associated in the minds of travelers with malaria, wild boars, buffaloes, and water-snakes It is a dead level, formed by the deposit of the mountain torrents, and extends a distance of thirty miles. It is from six to twelve miles wide, and touches the Appenines on the east and the Mediterranean on the west. In the great days of Rome, its mountain borders, and a portion of its bosom, were occupied by populous cities : now, owing to long neglect, it is almost without human inhabitants. A good road runs through it in a direct line. For the most part, this is bordered by elms, whose arching branches form a kind of tunnel, terminating in a small circle of blue sky, in the distant horizon. Here and there is a lonely post-house, inhabited by pictures of woe, seeming to bear in their livid countenances the hues of death. As I looked into one of these dwellings I saw a man a woman and a child crouching over a few coals of fire, the very images of hopeless, helpless misery. Their beds were heaps of straw, their clothes a mass of rags. Yet all around animal life was abundant. The marshes were filled with various kinds of ducks, who quacked and muddled in all the conscious joy of abundance and security. Large flocks of birds were seen wheeling northward to their breeding-places, along the sky. The magpies chattered in the open grounds, and blackbirds and thrushes glanced through the underwood. The plains teemed with troops of the Tuscan ox, many of them so fat that their dewlaps swept the ground. Droves of domesticated buffaloes, a mile in length, followed their leaders to the pastures. The wild looks of these beasts, contrasting strongly with the common ox, is very striking. The latter holds his head aloft, and tosses his spreading horns boldly, as if accustomed to welcome, and conscious of dignity. The buffalo carries his head low, and his drooping horns add to the rather mean and cowering aspect he presents. His black hide, his sinister eye, and his savage countenance, give him an Ishmaelitish look, even when he is drudging in the yoke.
The absence of man in this paradise of brutes, lent a sort of wild charm to the scene. Our vetturino was merry, and the horses pulled untiringly. In due time we reached the Foro Appio, which, however, is only a demolished farm house, with symptoms of a deserted church. This is the spot where St. Paul met his countrymen from Rome, on his way thither. It is a desolate spot, and here we only saw, of living things, a ragged boy and a starved staring cat.
Passing by numerous places of high historical interest, we at last emerged from the Pontine Marshes, and came to Terracina. Alike from its geological character, its picturesque beauties, and its poetic scenery, this spot is one of the most interesting in the universe. Nowhere is the imagination more profoundly stirred. It is here that the lofty Volscian range of mountains meets the sea and which seems to have said to it, Hitherto mays't thou come, but no further. You seem here to read the very history of the primeval world, in the mountain and the deep. That awful battle between fire and water, of which the geologists tell us, seems to have been waged and settled here. It is the valley of a past Megiddon, in which the candescent earth was quelled and conquered by its great rival element. The mountain is a ridge of rocks, bristling with twisted and contorted masses of every imaginable form, writhing serpents, demons, horrid monsters, griffins, iguanadous , icthyosauri , the hideous things of the past, present and future.
We climbed to the top of this grisly peak, a thousand feet above the level of the ocean. At its foot, on the narrow margin between the sea and the mountain, lay Terracina. The blue water spread out to the western sky, and came rippling to the wharves of the city. The contrast between the smiling bay and the scowling precipice was indeed most striking. The scene derived additional interest from our recollections of the past. It is at this spot that the Volscians, Greeks, Romans, Goths, have struggled for empire. The depths of the bay, as well as the circling land, are paved with the bones of past generations. BYRON has embodied the history and poetry of the scene in the famous stanza commencing:
"Thy shores are empires, changed in all save thee."Our ascent of the mountain presented some curious incidents. Half way up we came to a colony of the most squalid creatures ever beheld. It comprised seven or eight wigwams, each consisting [illegible] twelve in diameter, thatched with a conical sheaf of reeds. In each burrow was a family of eight or ten persons, consisting mostly of children under nine years of age. The parents were tawny as bacon, and shaggy as bears. The children were half clad in rags, the nether parts having pretty free play. Some of the younger children were absolutely naked. A stream, or rather a torrent of these Vandals poured out upon us and followed us up and down the mountain, begging most vociferously. We got tired of them at last, and ANTONIO BARONTE drove them back. They retreated to a distance and hurled stones at us. I never saw such a set of spontaneous brigands, without distinction of sex.
The shingling sides of this precipice are covered with ruins—the vestiges of Roman and mediæval fortifications, villas and palaces. We passed over a large space, yawning with deep, dark caves and vaults—the wrecks of ancient edifices. These hideous dens were formerly used by the bandits as burial-places for the bodies of their victims. One of them we now found to be a pen for sheep. What mutations!—a palace of the Cæsars becomes successively a brigand's Golgotha and a shepherd's fold.
The higher parts of the cliff are absolutely wild and desolate, except that here and there is a lonesome man, wrapped to the chin in a butternut-colored cloak, tending sheep, or goats, or pigs. He is always a dark, silent, moody-looking person, glowering out of his black eyes, beneath black, shaggy brows. He has, invariably, a half-lordly and half-vassal-like look, and, as he begs, he does it with a brigand air. We have met a youth of sixteen years, with his cloak thrown, as usual, over his left shoulder, and hiding the lower part of his face. He was the master of some twenty black pigs. His mien was stately, and his
face eminently handsome. At first he looked dark, sallow, wild and fierce, but when he smiled, all the ladies of the party were captivated. A pig-herd he is, and a pig-herd he will probably always remain; but I could not but feel that he only needed opportunity, like his predecessor, PIZARRO, to make a noise in the world. On the top of the mountain we found the ruins of the castle of THEODORIC, the Goth.
After a most interesting survey of the curiosities of Terracina, we departed, and followed the Appian Way along the narrow space between the mountains and the sea. The change in this quarter in the climate and the scenery was remarkable. We had entered the Neapolitan territory, and seemed suddenly to have come into the land of oranges, palms, pomegranates and prickly pears—the rich products of tropical climes. The sky was sunny, and the air full of balme. It was impossible not to notice that, in exact proportion, the people became mo ragged, languid, pallid and poverty stricken.
We soon plunged, somewhat suddenly, into the heart of the little town of Fondi. It was four in the afternoon. The public square was filled with people, some three or four hundred in number. They were generally occupied in the national trade of letting time slide, though I saw a few men and women, here and there, engaged in the no less national occupation of looking into each other's heads. The rest were sitting or lying on the steps of the church, along the doorsills of the houses, or against the walls of the gardens. Though the day was warm, the men were clothed in the universal long butternut colored cloak, reaching down to the heels, while the big cape was thrown across the shoulder, muffling the face and showing only the eyes. This place is the capital of Italian brigandage, and the faces of the people seem to indicate that they only need occasion to resume their trade—now repressed by the Government—the whole line of travel in this quarter being guarded at regular points by stations of soldiers.
A rough and dreary pass, guarded by wild ravines, filled with steepling rocks and dingy forests, brought us to Itri, situated on a lofty isolated hill. It is a small mean town, but is renowned in the history of banditism. It is the birthplace of MICHELE PEZZA, better known as "Fra Diavolo," famous alike in history, romance and song. This monster, as well as MAMMONE, no less infamous, were largely paid by England and covered with honors by the Neapolitan Court for their operations against the French in 1799. When they were captured, English money was found in their pockets, and instructions in the handwriting of Sir SIDNEY SMITH. Yet the history of these desperadoes is a history of nothing but wholesale murders.
At sunset we reached Gaeta. This place abounds in historical interest, and it was here that the Pope found refuge when he fled from the Republic in 1849. Among the legends of the place is one to the effect that he and the King of Naples, who had come to visit him in his exile, went on board of an American frigate. The commander welcomed them in these terms: "Pope, how are you? King, how d'ye do?" "Here, Lieutenant JONES, you speak French; parley vous with the Pope, while the King and I go down and have a drink. King, come on."
The next day by noon we reached Capua, sixteen miles from Naples, and communicating with it by railroad; we preferred to continue however, in our vettura. Several miles before entering the city, our approach to it was announced by unmistakable signs. The broad paved road was covered with vehicles of new forms, with harnesses of peculiar fashion. There were oxen yoked together with horses and asses—a triumvirate exclusively Neapolitan. There was a droll mixture of negligence and display, of don't care and care-a-good-deal in everything we saw. Portions of the vehicles were painted fiery red, while other parts were torn, worn and dilapidated. The harnesses and saddles of carts and wagons were glowing with [illegible] flannel, while old ropes, rags and jagged strings, dangled here and there, to supply rents and repair damages.
As we drew closer to the great city everything became intense; the crowds of people thickened, the vehicles multiplied, the gardens became more sumptuous, the villas more imposing, the beggars more importunate. It seemed as if all the cripples and monsters of the place had come forth to meet us. Never have I seen such skill of costume as in some of these creatures—playing poverty. Several were so absolutely thatched with rags, and so well glazed and grimed with grease and dirt, as to surpass the descriptive power of words. Some of the young suppliants had a wailing plaint, and some a wooing, smiling, seductive one. We saw one young couple, a boy and a girl—almost in nature's nankeen—who sang an air, with words pertinent to the occasion.
Thus attended, we at last reached the gate of Naples, and for the fifth and last time, underwent the ceremony of spunging from the police, on the pretence of examining our baggage; which, however, was always averted by giving a few pieces of silver to the chief, and of copper to the underlings. Finally, after a journey of two hundred miles in three days, with one set of horses, we took lodgings in the capital of the Two Sicilies, and the residence of King Bomba.
DICK TINTO.Of course we did not fail to visit Pompeii. Indeed I should not have thought of visiting Naples at all, had I not felt that I could not visit Italy and leave it without seeing the ruins of Pompeii—and to it we devoted one of our earliest days in Naples. We started early in the morning, and took the cars for Pompeii—some 10 or 12 miles. We moved without much rapidity, as the train stops frequently at the small towns along the road. The course is along the shore of the Bay, and around the base of Vesuvius, whose smoking crater is all the while in sight, and everything visible is volcanic. The houses in the little cities are hardly ten feet high, and have flat roofs, and the streets are wonderfully narrow,—the whole constructed evidently so as not to be toppled down by earthquakes. The excavations and embankments reveal the hills of crumbling scoria and the cliffs of solidified lava. The lava rock crops out all along, looking like a sort of green-stone trap, and in some places they are quarrying it, evidently for use.
In there little cities and villages, scattered along this ten miles, there are some 75,000 people, and they are so often shaken by earthquakes, and scorched by lava, and showered by cinders, that it is no wonder that they build so lowly and inexpensively. I believe they are as virtuous as it is possible for the cheating race of Italians to be on such a highway and thoroughfare of sight-seers.—Torre del Annunziata is the largest of these towns. It is called Torre for brevity. The Neapolitans have an idle saying, Naples sins, and Torre pays for it, intending thus to suggest the innocence of Torre, as well as the wickedness of Naples, Naples having never suffered by volcanic eruptions, and Torre often.
We had no time to give to these little towns—curious indeed in themselves—and hurried on to Pompeii. After a few moments rest, while we secured a guide, we betook ourselves to the devoted city resurrected after a burial of 1800 years duration, and with a constantly renewed interest we wandered through its ancient streets and its deserted and roofless shops and houses and temples and theatres.—Nothing was at all as I had expected to see it, furnishing but another instance of the utter inadequacy of verbal description to convey a just idea of scenes so strange and peculiar, which speak only to the eye.
The railroad depot and hotel are on what was a part of the ancient excellent harbor (water) of Pompeii—the shore having gained upon the Bay a long distance.
It is only a step from the hotel to within the walls of the city. We first made our way about 3-4 of a mile through open fields of corn, showing a poor soil and worse husbandry, to the great amphitheatre, which is at about that distance from the other excavations.
The early history of Pompeii is lost in the fable that ascribes its establishment to the Phenician Hercules. The first we know of it really, historically, is about the beginning of the Christian era, or a little before, although it was then spoken of as a celebrated city. It was built on the shore of the Bay, at the mouth of the Sarno, and had a magnificent deep water harbor, which made it at the same time a Naval Station and the Emporium of a great Commerce. Etymologists, indeed, derive its name from pompeion, the Greek word for emporium. It has about three miles of circuit, and although originally on the shore of the Bay, it is now a mile from the water. It had a military "colony" under Sylla, and became a Municipium under Augustus, and under Nero it was Colonia romana. Some of the inscriptions speak of it as " the Colony." It was a favorite resort for distinguished Romans. Its situation and surrounding view was of surpassing beauty. Seneca resided there. Cicero often spoke of its beauties. He had a favorite villa there. There he is said to have written his "Offices," and in one year to have written there his "Nature of the Gods," "Old Age," "Friendship," "Glory and Topics." His Tusculan and Pompeian residences were his special delight. "Tusculanum et Pompeianum valde me delectant."
Pompeii, in the midst of its prosperity, (A. D. 63,) was shattered by an earthquake of great power and terror. Then, for the first time, Vesuvius was recognized as an active volcano, by those who dwelt about its base. Herculaneum and Pompeii were almost destroyed. During that year, and often, up to A. D. 79, the shocks of repeated earthquakes shattered the walls and prostrated the colonnades of the temples, the forums, and the Basilicas of the city, and frightened the peodle away. They, however, soon returned and commenced to rebuild the city with much more magnificence, to take the place of the ancient Oscan, Etrurian and Samnitic ruder structures, erected by its earlier inhabitants. It was in the midst of the satisfactions derived from seeing their city renovated and beautified by the new constructions, that the first eruption of Vesuvius, with its indescribable terrors, opened upon the devoted cities situated near its southern and south-eastern base—Herculaneum, Pompeii and Stabia. Stabia is now Castellamare, a modern village with no signs of its ancient building. Herculaneum, about 100 feet below the surface, has but a few and limited excavations in its subterranean darkness. Pompeii is entirely laid open upon the surface, so far as it is excavated, which is only about one quarter of the town, after more than 100 years digging.
In the midst of the ruins of this extraordinary eruption, the often told story of the fate of Pompeii has come to my mind again with a deeper interest in the whole of the dreadful scene, and with an emphasis upon some of the scenes and incidents, which induces me to bring them again before you, familiar as the unique phenomenon, a city raised from the grave of near 2000 years, must be.
We are indebted to the younger Pliny for the only account of an eye-witness of the scene. He was at Misenum, some 20 miles from Vesuvius, but in full view, as the waters of the Bay alone intervened. His uncle, the elder Pliny, was then in command of the Roman fleet; the nephew was with him, devoting himself to his studies. At the commencement of the eruption, which was acompanied by earthquake shocks, the old Admiral determined to cross the bay for a better and near view of the novel spectacle. There does not appear to have been any alarm in the minds of these Romans, to whom the scene was only a novelty, and the young man stayed with his mother, at Misenum, and the father in a galley crossed the bay in the afternoon, taking his tablets with him to record the phenomena. He arrived at Stabia, in the midst of showers of falling ashes and pumice stones and flint crumbled by the heat, and went to the house of a friend, not at all alarmed. He took a bath, ate his supper and went quietly to sleep after his fatigue, that with the morning light he might make his observations; but the ashes and scoria falling so fast, and the rocking of the earthquake being so terrible, his friend's family, whose fears kept them constantly excited, resolved to awake him. He joined them, and after a brief consultation, all agreed that there was no safety in the houses shaken by such convulsions, and, perhaps, hardly more in the open fields, where the falling stones and cinders threatened destruction. They, however, tied pillows on their heads with napkins, and took to the fields, in a darkness perfectly impenetrable except by the occasional flashes of lurid volcanic light. Soon a blast of sulphurous and mephitic air passed over the old Admiral, and he fell down dead. It was then day-light by the clock, but there was no light, and for three days there was a darkness like that of a closed room, where not a ray enters.
The young man and his mother, at Misenum, 15 miles off, rose in the high morning, to find but a dim and murky twilight and the awful throes of the earthquake, and they, too, determined to quit the city, and the frightened populace crowded after them. Once out of the way of falling buildings, they halted, when the earthquake seemed to gain new force. Their carriages in the open fields could not be kept in their places, but rolled back and forth, although the wheels were blocked, and the sea seemed to double upon itself and suddenly retreat from the shore, while toward the mountain hung a black and horrible cloud, now and then lighted up by internal flashes, and rendered more dreadful by what seemed immense tongues of fire. The cloud swept on toward Misenum, bringing with it a slight shower of ashes and increasing darkness, and finally that utter darkness which destroyed all vision. Then this flying multitude, in unfamiliar places, became be-bewildered . They had but the voice and the ear by which to recognize each other and keep together. Then, oh, that wild confusion and shrieking of human voices—the plaints of the women, the shouts of the men and the cries of the children—one calling his father, another his son, another his wife—in a hurrying, affrighted and stifled crowd ! If this was the case at Misenum, what was it at Pompeii? where this darkness and earthquake were of three days duration—where was the centre of the lightnings and flames and terrible convulsions—where the showers of volcanic dust and ashes, fine and black, like pulverized coal, fell to the depth of ten inches—then the peltings of the pitiless and irritating storm of pumice-stone, gravel mixed with large stones, to the depth of seven feet—and thus in alternating showers of ashes and stones and hot water, during these three days was the city filled in its lowest cellars, and covered above its highest buildings—the hot stones setting fire—the weight crushing the roofs—the earthquake shaking down the walls—the lulling ashes and gravel filling all the passages and streets. It is said that the loss of life was small, because so few bones have been found; doubtless, almost all left the city—that would be almost the first impulse among the tumbling ruins; and the streets, dark as it was, would easily guide the fleeing populace to the fields without the walls; but who that has floundered through snows three feet deep, even in the light of a winter night, can fail to see what was the probable fate of a large portion of those panic stricken and crowding thousands in that smothering dust and sand and heat and drifting ashes, which covered all the fields to the depth of many feet, and the darkness more than Egyptian. Those fields have never been excavated, and they tell no tales of that fearful night of 60 hours ! Even in the city, in the open places and in the broad streets, many skeletons are found, of persons, perhaps struck down by falling stones, perhaps strangled by deadly gases. How much may be inferred from a single group ? They found the skeleton of a mother with the bones of her little baby in her arms, and those of her two larger children, evidently embracing her. In despair they had sat down to die together; her ear-drops, in the form of a balance with pearls suspended by threads of gold, showed a family, perhaps, of the better class. Indeed, this is true of many of the skeletons found in the city. They have rings with finely engraved stones, and bracelets and armlets and eardrops and necklaces, tasteful in form and rich in character. At the house of Diomede, situated near the bay, he with his servant, was found in the yard, near the gate toward the water, his key in his hand and his servant with a bag of money. It is common to say that he was leaving his family to their fate and saving himself. I more charitably suppose that he had the price with him with which he hoped to procure the means to transport them by water. His family were in the cellar. We went through the cellar to see his pots, still standing there—and the scene of the family death. It was dimly lighted, (as with us,) by small cellar windows half buried; and it was through these windows that a more frightful death than starvation overtook them. After a while, by some strange cause, the volcanic ashes was forced in through these windows and mixed with water—perhaps torrents belched from the burning crater; perhaps the water of the bay (for the sea rushed frantically back and forth)—and there, perhaps by a steady rise, may be by fitful swells,—that subterranean refuge filled higher and higher. They retreated to the highest part of the cellar near one of the doors—it might be opened! desperate hope!—and there they were strangled in its filthy ooze. You see there now, on the cellar wall where they stood crowded together, a slight discoloration like their shadows When the lapse of 1800 years had dried that mud, and the flesh had wasted and gone, and the bones had fallen together, there were the casts of the heaving bosoms and round, graceful forms of high-bred ladies—even the print of the fabric of surpassing fineness, with which they were clad, and the draperies which after the manner of the ancients, in their last moments they had drawn over their faces. Their tresses still hung about their fleshless skulls, and their teeth were entire—and upon their bones hung collars and hoops of gold and rings and pins and engraved stones, emeralds and amethysts, &c., &c., and by them was a magnificent candelabra which they had brought down to light up their solemn and desolate hiding-place—while doubtless they were waiting for the return of Diomed to open the door to deliver them,—They were 18 in all. In other houses they had doubtless retreated to upper rooms. In the chambers of the forum nundinarium were 63 skeletons.
In one of the chambers of the temple of Isis was the skeleton of a priest still at the table, evidently determined to live out his life—his table was covered with egg shells and chicken bones and ham bones—his wine pot and goblet were broken on the ground, probably in desperation, after he had drained them. In another room, close by, was another skeleton of a priest, braced as it were against the wall, where, with an axe in his hand, he had apparently broken through
two walls in his desperate efforts to escape, but the third was too much for his exhausted powers, and they both died there in the secret and mysterious recesses of that cheating temple—perhaps there was their laboratory and machine room where the[illegible] wrought out the liquefactions and touch[illegible] the springs of the winking madonnas a[illegible] other trickery of the Isiac worship.
Pope Pius IX, during his exile in [illegible] visited the ruins of Pompeii, and is the [illegible] Pope who has ever visited them. In the [illegible] ficial account of that visit it is stated [illegible] the attention of His Holiness was singu[illegible] fixed by the temple of Isis. Well it m[illegible] be—for there was laid open the rooms their mysteries, the private doors and sta[illegible]r cases by which the priests wrought their pretended miracles, and through the statue of the Goddess pronounced their cheating oracles. Much in the Roman Catholic rites and ceremonies and practices is easily traced to the more ancient similar practices of the heathen idolatries which Christianity supplanted.
If ever the remaining three-fourths of the city shall be excavated, thousands of the dead may be found instead of the hundred or two already discovered, and still other and greater objects of interest may be revealed. The digging has now gone on more than 100 years, always slowly. To finish it at the same rate will take 300 years more, before which, it may be buried again. Vesuvius has lost none of its activity in 1800 years. These excavations show eight distinct strata, varying in thickness from two inches to seven feet, and exhibit the strongest evidence of the action of water as well as of fire—and yet the whole was the work of three days only—a fact never to be forgotten when we would infer great lapse of time from great physical changes. Yours, E. C.
[begin surface 738]This great work, by S. B. Waugh, Esq., painted from Sketches taken by the Artist during a residence of several years in Italy, is just completed (1855). As a work of art, it is of the highest character, and must add very largely to the reputation which Mr. Waugh has already so fully established for himself; and while its accuracy will be appreciated by those who have visited the scenes which it so faithfully portrays, it will convey to all such a knowledge of this interesting portion of the world, as they could only otherwise obtain by a protracted tour. The paintings are so arranged that they constitute a complete
VOYAGE TO ITALY AND BACK.POMPEII IN WAUGH'S ITALIA.—This city is supposed to have derived its name from the triumphal pomp in which Hercules led his captives along the coast after he conquered Spain. It was nearly destroyed, A. D. 63 by an earthquake. After this catastrophe workmen were employed in cutting new ornaments and pillars for their temples and palaces; and their work still lies half unfinished outside the city gates. In the year 79 it was buried to the depth of several yards by the ashes and cinders of the same volcanic eruption which destroyed Herculaneum by a flood of lava.
Here everything bears a history eloquent of the past; and as the traveller walks through its deserted streets, or enters its vacant dwellings, all seems too real, and bears too much of the present in its appearance, for him to realize that the owners saw their dwellings for the last time more than seventeen centuries ago. It was one of the most licentious cities of Italy; its harbor was crowded with vessels, and its streets teemed with a dense population. Now it is desolate, yet not decayed; its streets echo to a solitary footstep; the vessels seek another port, avoiding the barren waste under which this marine city still lies. In the view which the artist has given is seen the "Forum Civilia," and the magnificent "Temple of Jupiter," which, when opened, was found to contain exquisite statuary and paintings. The most interesting portions of the ill-fated city were excavated by the French. These are the Forum, Amphitheatre, Basilica, and the adjoining temples, and the beautiful Street of the Tombs.
From the New Haven Register.WAUGH'S PANORAMA OF ITALY.—The exhibition of this fine Painting opened at Brewster's Hall last evening, to a highly respectable audience. It is the best thing of the kind we have ever had here, and may be witnessed with pleasure and profit by all classes. As a work of art, the painting is superb,—some of the scenes are exceedingly beautiful. The moonlight scene in the Bay of Naples is a magnificent specimen of the fine arts. The stars glittering in the heavens, the angry volcanoes vomiting forth fire and smoke, the calm rays of the moon sleeping on the water, form altogether a view of the highest sublimity and beauty. Parents should take their children to witness it. It is an exhibition well worthy of encouragement.
[begin surface 743]"BURNING OF STEAM FRIGATE MISSOURI."—This vessel built in New York for the United States Government, was burned off Gibralter on the 25th of August, 1843. The whole scene is represented in "ITALIA," which opens on Monday night at Concert Hall. It was sketched at that moment when the officers and crew, 400 in number, are deserting the ship—leaping from the side of the burning vessel into the sea beneath, and are picked up by boats of British men-of-war in the harbor. The red glare of the burning ship is in fine contrast with the calm silver rays of the moon streaming down on the water.
From the Orange, N. J. Journal.The exhibition of the celebrated moving Panorama of Waugh's Italia, in Newark, at Concert Hall, is still continued. It is one of the most magnificent exhibitions we have ever seen. The voyage is made to Europe and back in one evening, and the scenes of ancient cities, leaning towers, mountains, lakes, &c., are magnificent. It would be impossible to describe the moonlight scene in the Bay of Naples. The stars glittering in the heavens, the angry volcanoes vomiting forth fire and smoke, the calm rays of the moon sleeping on the water, form altogether a view of the highest sublimity and beauty. An exhibition will be given this afternoon and evening, and continue, probably during the evenings of next week. We hope many of our readers may witness this sublime exhibition.
From the Newark Eagle."COLISEUM."—The ruins of this immense ampitheatre by moonlight from one of the nine views of Rome in the great "Italia." It was here the St. Ignatius and twenty of his companions were devoured by wild beasts for the amusement of the audience of eighty-seven thousand persons.
From the New Haven Courier.AWFUL ACCIDENT.—A lady in the costume of 1856, who made a trip to "Italia," last evening, stuck fast in the interior of the colossal statute of San Carlo Borromeo, on the shore of Lake Maggoir, whilst ascending the winding staircase in the interior of the figure. By the aid of several spile drivers, worked with steam, she was reduced to the ordinary size of humanity, and extricated from her perilous position, and at last advices was doing as well as could be expected Those who go to-night take warning.
From the Pennsylvanian.The following flattering testimonial was forwarded to Mr. WAUGH, on Saturday, and will be read with interest:
PHILADELPHIA, May 19th, 1855.To S. B. WAUGH,—Dear Sir :—Having observed an announcement in the public papers that your panoramic views of Italy are about to be removed from Philadelphia, we wish to offer you the expression of our unqualified admiration of them, no less for their exceeding artistic merit, than their truthful representations of the principal features of one of the most interesting portions of the world, and to assure you that their exhibition has been to us all a source of great enjoyment.
In view, however, of the very limited period which has elapsed since they were opened to the public, and of the assurance that they cannot be returned to us for a long time, they would additionally, unite in a request for at least a short postponement of their removal—for we are satisfied that a large number of citizens have not yet been able to see them, and that many others, like ourselves, would gladly embrace an opportunity to visit them again. Trusting that your plans for the future may not conflict with a favorable response to this request, and that, thereafter, wherever you may send them, they may receive that high appreciation which they so richly merit. We are, Respectfully, your friends,
Thomas Sully, John M. Scott, J. R. Lambdin, Lyman Coleman,Ancient Geography.—We here give an outline of the geography of ancient Italy, the ancient and modern maps facing each other, so that they may be readily compared.
Ancient Italy comprised three great divisions : CISALPINE GAUL, in the north, ITALY PROPER, in the center, and MAGNA GRÆCIA, in the south.
Cisalpine Gaul was divided by the river Padus, now called the Po, into two separate territories, called Gallia Transpadana, and Gallia Cispadana. Venetia was in the northeast, and Liguria in the southeast, of this region.
Italy Proper extended southward from Gallia Cispadana to the rivers Silaurus and Trento, comprehending modern Tuscany, the Papal States, and the northern part of the kingdom of Naples. The ancient divisions were Etruria, Latium, Umbria, Picernum, Campania, Samnium, and the territory of the Sabines.
Etruria was a highly civilized country at an early date. Many of their sculptured gems, vases, and paintings still exist. The walls of their ancient cities are to be seen at the present day at Cortona, Perugia, Fiesole, and other places.
Latium lay on the western coast of Italy, between the Tiber and the Liris. In early times it was inhabited by various tribes, called Latins, Ausones, Rutuli, Sabines, Volsci, &c.
Campania extended along the western coast from the Liris to the Silaurus, and comprised the territory around the city of Naples. This country has always been famous for its beauty and fertility.
Magna Græcia was settled at an early period by colonies from Greece, who brought with them the arts and institutions of that country. It was divided into Apulia, Calabria, Lucania, and Bruttium. The most important city in Magna Græcia was Tarentum.
The ancient names of the gulfs, rivers, seas, &c., will be found in the map.
the coast of Sicily. Rice, the vine, olive, orange, fig, silk, cotton, cattle, goats, and swine, are among the products of agriculture. The manufactures include woolens, silk, gauze, porcelain, artificial flowers, paper, parchment, and musical instruments. Iron, lead, salt, sulphur, and other volcanic products abound. The exports embrace silk, wool, oil, honey, straw hats, Parmesan cheese, sulphur, &c.; the commerce has greatly declined.
7. Political Divisions, &c.—These have been given in the preceding table. The governments are mostly monarchical. The Roman Catholic religion prevails everywhere.
8. Inhabitants.—There is some diversity among the inhabitants of the different states; but, in general, the masses are miserably poor, and the value of human life seems reduced to its lowest scale; yet the people are full of genius, excelling in the fine arts, and endowed with a capacity for vocal music beyond any other nation. The country is the depository of the great works of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Canova, and other artists, who have filled the world with their fame. The fine arts are still cultivated with success; and the common people are judges of music, painting, and sculpture. All classes are more fond of cheerful amusements than thrifty toil. Music, dancing, and conversation are leading sources of pleasure.
Sicily? 6. Products? Climate? Animals? 7. Political divisions? 8.Inhabitants? What of Raphael, &c.? The fine arts, dancing, &c ?
27 [begin surface 744]9. Lombardy and Venice—form the northeastern part of Italy, and border on Austria, to which country they belong. They are fertile regions, and have been called the granary of Europe. Venice, the ancient capital, is one of the most remarkable cities in Europe, being built on seventy Palace in Venice. islands, and having five hundred bridges. It has canals for streets, and gondolas, or boats, in lieu of carriages. Milan, now the seat of government for the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, is a splendid city, famed for its cathedral. This kingdom was formed in 1815, and assigned to Austria by the Congress of Vienna.
10. Sardinia—embraces the large island of Sardinia, and the portion of Italy contiguous to Switzerland. The adjacent island of Corsica belongs to France. Turin, the capital, is a fine city, with a beautiful view of the Alps. Genoa, Nice, and Marengo are celebrated places; the latter is noted for one of the most brilliant of Napoleon's victories, 1800. The kingdom of Sardinia originated in that of Savoy, which was successively enlarged to nearly its present limits in the eighteenth century. It was annexed to France in 1798, but was restored in 1815, and augmented by the addition of Genoa and the island of Capraja.
11. Monaco—is a small principality under the protection of Sardinia. Monaco is the capital.
12. Parma, Modena, and Lucca—are small states, called Duchies, south of Lombardy and Venice.
A Church in Florence.13. Tuscany—is the most flourishing and best-governed part of Italy. It is the ancient Etruria. Its language is considered the true Italian. One-sixth part of the territory is covered with a marsh, called the Maremma, the air of which produces fatal fevers. Tuscany became subject to Austria in 1745, and is at present governed by a grand-duke. Florence, the capital, named the Beautiful, well deserves its title. Leghorn is the chief seaport. Pisa is famed for its curious leaning tower.
14. The Popedom, sometimes called the States of the Church, occupies the center of Italy, and is ruled by the pope. Here is Rome, the seat and center of ancient Roman power, and the most celebrated spot on the face of the globe. It was once twenty-five miles in circumference, and, though now reduced, it is still a great city, and interesting on account of its majestic ruins. It is sometimes called the Eternal City. Here is St. Peter's Church, the noblest of cathedrals; the Vatican, or the pope's palace; and a gallery of the fine arts, which attracts artists from all parts of the world. The present States of the Church were taken by Napoleon in 1800, his infant son being created king of Rome. These were restored by the Congress of Vienna in 1815.
View in the Republic of San Marino.15. San Marino—is a small republic under the protection of the pope. It originated in the fifth century in a Dalmatian stone-cutter, named Marino, who built a hermitage in the neighborhoood, and was regarded as a saint. Here a town gradually arose, which became a little republic, and continued independent, with brief exceptions, to the present day.
16. The Kingdom of Naples—embraces the southern part of Italy, and the fine island of Sicily. The climate is warm, and tropical fruits abound; yet the cities are filled with beggars. The city of Naples has twenty thousand lazzaroni, or idlers and vagabonds; yet they are a gay and cheerful race, though often without a home or other lodging than the pavement. Near Naples are the volcano of Vesuvius, and the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii, two cities buried by an eruption eighteen hundred years ago. On the island of Sicily is Etna, a volcanic mountain, whose base is surrounded with villages and clothed with vineyards. Palermo, Messina, and Syracuse are the chief towns in Sicily. The Kingdom of Naples was founded several centuries since. In 1806, Napoleon took possession of it. In 1809, he placed his brother-in-law, Murat, on the throne. The king, Ferdinand, was restored in 1814, and Murat, who attempted to recover his throne, was defeated and shot in 1815.
9. Lombardy and Venice? 10. Sardinia? 11. Monaco? 12. Parma, &c.? 13. Tuscany? 14. The Popedom? 15. San Marino? 16. Naples?
16. Malta—is a famous island in the Mediterranean Sea. This place is small, but renowned in history. It lies south of Sicily, and has 103,247 inhabitants, including the little contiguous island of Gozzo. Valetta, the capital, has 32,000 people. The adventures of St. Paul in Malta, formerly Melita, are recorded in the 28th chapter of Acts. View of Valetta, Capital of Malta. For a long time, Malta belonged to the Romans, but, on the decline of their empire, it was captured by the Goths, and afterward by the Saracens. In 1525, Charles V. gave this island to the Knights of Malta, who immediately began the work of fortifying it. This, in process of time, they accomplished so effectually, as to make their chief city one of the strongest places in the world. Such was its strength, that when Bonaparte, in 1798, on his way to invade Egypt, summoned the city of Valetta to surrender, it might have defied all enemies. The Grand Master, Hompesch, however, either from treachery or cowardice, made no resistance. Bonaparte left a garrison in Malta; but shortly after, the British commenced a blockade, and, after two years, the Maltese were starved into a surrender, September 4, 1800. The island has since continued under the British government, and forms, next to Gibraltar, the most powerful of the foreign naval stations of that empire. The Knights of Malta, above alluded to, have borne different names in different periods of history—as, the Hospitalers of St. John of Jerusalem, Knights of Rhodes, &c. They are best known by the name which they obtained from their long residence in Malta. These knights constituted a military religious order, which originated in the Holy Land. Previous to the Crusades, some Neapolitan merchants had founded a church at Jerusalem, to which were attached a monastery and hospital. Godfrey of Bouillon, after the conquest of the city by the Christians, endowed this hospital with some demesnes; and this liberality being imitated by others, it became a wealthy establishment. A body of Hospitalers was organized here, with the name of the Brothers of St. John of Jerusalem. Their habit was black, and they bore on their breast a white cross. The object of the institution was the entertainment of poor pilgrims; but the first Grand Master of the Order, finding the revenue exceed the demands for this purpose, resolved to employ the surplus in wars against the infidels. The knights of the order accordingly distinguished themselves in the armies of the Crusaders. After the loss of Jerusalem, they retired first to Margath, and then to Acre, which place they defended vigorously, to the last moment that the Christians maintained their footing in the Holy Land. When Palestine was irretrievably lost, they withdrew to Cyprus, where they remained for eighteen years. Having driven the Saracens from the island of Rhodes, they removed thither in 1308, and took the name of Knights of Rhodes. The Greek emperor confirmed them in possession of this place, and they defended themselves with success from the attacks of the Saracens. The Turks, under Mohammed II., besieged Rhodes for three months, in 1480, but were repelled by the skill and bravery of the defenders, and they retained possession of the island for more than two centuries; but, in the year 1522, Solyman II. attacked them with an army of 300,000 men, and, after an unavailing defence, they were obliged to surrender. In 1525, the Emperor Charles V. put them in possession of Malta, where they remained for nearly three centuries, when their order was abolished.
17. History of Italy.—We have already given the history of Rome; we now proceed to give a brief sketch of the history of Italy generally. The origin of its first inhabitants we do not know with certainty. They are supposed to have been Pelasgians, who pursued agriculture, and built towns with Cyclopian walls of hammered stone. The inhabitants of the mountains, after a long period, descended and conquered them. The Greeks sent colonies thither, until the country was at last occupied by various tribes, among whom the Etruscans made the earliest advances in the arts. At last, the city of Rome was built, and became the seat and center of an empire, which conquered nearly the whole civilized world. The map at page 212 will show the countries included in the empire of Augustus, and the map at page 213 will show the same countries, with their modern names, and present divisions. In religion, the ancient Romans followed the Greek mythology, adding some names to the long catalogue of Grecian gods and goddesses. In their literature, architecture, painting, and sculpture, the Romans also followed the Greeks. Their body of laws constitute a profound system, which has guided the legislation of the civilized world, in modern times. The leading characteristic of the ancient Romans was an intense nationality, much like that of the English at the present day. Their love and appreciation of Rome involved contempt of all other nations. The policy of the state, though marked with grandeur of conception, led to the conquest and plunder of other countries, without scruple or remorse, for the aggrandizement of Rome. Even Roman liberty regarded only the freedom of Roman citizens, with slavery for the rest of mankind. It was this selfish, grasping spirit which made her the mistress of the civilized world, in her day of power, but which brought upon her the vengeance of heaven and earth, in the time of her adversity. Thus, she became the prey of barbarians in the fifth century; and Italy, her central territory, was divided up among different tribes of barbarians. Odoacer, who had become king of Italy in 476, was defeated and killed in battle by Theodoric, a leader of the Ostrogoths, who succeeded him upon the throne. He was a wise king, and, during his reign of thirty-five years, the Italians enjoyed a period of prosperity. About 535, Italy came under the dominion of the Byzantine emperor. After a few years, the Lombards, a German tribe, made themselves masters of Northern Italy, and captured Ravenna, which
16. Malta? Knights of St. John? Their history? What of their defense of Rhodes? 17. History of Italy? Odoacer? Theodoric?
[begin surface 746]was then the capital. Charlemagne conquered the Lombards, and annexed all Italy to his empire. In 888, Italy was detached, and became a separate kingdom. After this, the cities and states began to form themselves into republics, each governed by a duke and senators. In 961, the German emperor was acknowledged sovereign of Italy, the German Emperors. different governments taking an oath of allegiance to him. The most opulent cities at this time were Venice, Genoa, and Pisa, all of which had a number of small states depending on them, belonging to different counts, marquises, and lords of castles. Every city was now encompassed by a wall, and had its own military force. Many of the noblemen, also, had their own separate armies. In the twelfth century, sentiments of republican freedom had sprung up among the different states, and a general desire prevailed to throw off the German supremacy. In 1152, Frederic Barbarossa became emperor of Germany. He spent thirty-three years in desolating wars, for the purpose of suppressing this spirit of revolt, in which he was but partially successful. About this time two parties, called Guelphs and Ghibellines, arose, and, for a long period, involved the leading Italian States in bloody civil wars. In the fourteenth century, there were two popes—one at Rome, and the other at Avignon, in France; and finally, a third was elected. These were all set aside by the Council of Constance, in 1417, and a new pope established. Venice, founded by a few fishermen upon the marshes of the Adriatic, in the fifth century, became a powerful republic in the Middle Ages. The government was originally democratic, but it passed into the hands of the aristocracy, the chief officer being called Doge, or Duke. Pope Alexander III. having made a formal grant of the Adriatic to Venice, the Doge was accustomed to go annually in a vessel, and throw a ring into the sea, with vast pomp and parade. This ceremony was called the Marriage of the Adriatic. Venice became the commercial rival of Genoa and Pisa, and, for a long period, continued to be the wealthiest and most powerful state in Christendom. At the commencement of the
Frederic Barbarossa? Guelphs and Ghibellines? Council of Constance? What of Venice? The marriage of the Adriatic?
[begin surface 747]fifteenth century, she had triumphed over Genoa, and the leading cities of Italy were subject to her sway. Her fleets held undisputed dominion in the Mediterranean. Toward the close of the fifteenth century, the power of Venice declined. The Portuguese took away her rich commerce The Doge of Venice Marrying the Adriatic. with India. In 1453, the Turks captured Constantinople, and deprived her of some of her most flourishing colonies. Thus Venice sunk into insignificance; and in 1797, after Napoleon's conquest of Italy, she formed a portion of the Cisalpine Republic. She was restored to Austria in 1815. The history of the other Italian States need not be given in detail. The recent events in this country are interesting. Immediately after the French Revolution of February, 1848, all Italy was thrown into a revolutionary ferment. Venice rebelled against Austria; the Duke of Tuscany fled before an insurrection; and the King of Naples was forced by the people to grant them a charter. The King of Sardinia took the popular side, and led his forces against the Austrians, who were threatening the Lombardo-Venetian territories. Pope Pius IX. fled to Naples for refuge from insurrection, and a republic was established at Rome. At this critical moment, the French Republic sent a large army against its sister republic of Rome. This was crushed, and the pope restored. The Austrians prevailed in Northern Italy. The revolution was checked; the kings and dukes repudiated the charters they had granted in the hour of panic, and resumed their ancient tyrannies. Charles Albert, king of Sardinia, was beaten, and obliged to resign his crown to his son. The Italians, though now sunk in imbecility, are a people of the highest order of genius. Michael Angelo, Raphael, and others, still remain without a rival in painting. Dante, Petrarch, &c., in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, were the chief instruments in rousing the torpid world from the slumber of the Dark Ages, to an era of light and civilization. At the present day, the Italians surpass every other nation in painting, sculpture, and music. The Italian language, composed of the Latin and Gothic languages, is unrivaled for melody. It is also the depository of a great mass of valuable literature and science. The fine arts have attained a splendor here quite unrivaled in any modern country, and have ever flourished in that region, as their chosen and peculiar soil.
The Cisalpine Republic? Revolution of 1848? Its effect in Italy? Pius IX.? His restoration? Charles Albert? The fine arts?
1. Characteristics.—Greece, like Italy, is chiefly a peninsula, projecting about 300 miles into the Mediterranean, with a mountainous surface, yet it is celebrated for its fine climate and interesting history.
2. Mountains, &c.—The principal chain is that of Pindus; the highest peak is 8239 feet high. The center of the Morea forms an elevated table-land, inclosed by three mountain ranges. The coasts are elevated, irregular, and deeply indented. The Morea consists of a peninsula nearly separated from the main-land by the gulfs of Lepanto and Ægina. There are numerous small streams, which are mostly rapid, and unfit for navigation. The only extensive lake is Topolais, between Thebes and Bœotia. The numerous islands will be seen by the maps hereto annexed.
3. Climate, Products, &c.—The climate is temperate, and generally healthy. The olive, fig, currant-grape, vine, melon, rice, cotton, orange, date, citron, and pomegranate are cultivated. The mountain hights are covered with pine forests. There are numerous minerals, but the mines are little wrought. Marble is abundant. Caverns, minerals, and gaseous springs are common. Among the wild animals are the wolf, jackal, lynx, badger, bear, fox, deer, roebuck, wild boar, hare, &c. Among the birds are the vulture, owl, partridge, quail, woodcock, &c. The bustard and pheasant are common. The coasts and lakes abound with water-fowl. The fisheries are an important branch of industry. Leeches are a source of revenue. The principal domestic animals are sheep and goats. Bees are extensively reared. The manufactures are mostly domestic, comprising silks, cottons, woolens, pottery, leather, beet-sugar, and salt. Commerce is extensive, and is the chief resource of the inhabitants.
4. Scenery, Inhabitants, &c.—Greece has ever been celebrated for the picturesque beauty of its landscapes, and its sublime mountains, fancied, by the ancient inhabitants, to be the abodes of the gods. Its valleys, assigned to the nymphs and naiads of the forest and the wave, its charming bays, its crystal rivers, and its beautiful atmosphere, combined to make it the chosen seat of poetry and art in ancient times, and still render it an object of interest to the most indifferent observer.
5. Divisions.—Greece is divided into nomes, as follows:
A table listing the nomes of Greece with thier areas in square miles, populations, and capitals.6. The Ionian Republic embraces seven islands on the western coast of Greece. These are Corfu, Paxo, St. A map of modern Greece. First settlement in Ancient Greece, 1856 B. C. Independence of Modern Greece, 1832 A. D. Ancient Greece conquered by the Romans, 146 B. C. Extent, 10,200 sq. m.—Pop., 856,470.—Pop. to sq. m., 84. Maura, Ithaca, Cephalonia, Zante, and Cerigo. The people are Greeks and Italians, and are nearly two hundred thousand in number. The republic is under the protection of Great Britain, whose sovereign appoints the chief officers. Zante is the largest town, and Corfu is the capital. The pursuits of the people are commercial.
7. Ancient Geography.—We shall now give a sketch of the ancient geography of Greece, in connection with modern geography. By referring to the above map, and that of Ancient Greece, on the opposite page, the reader will have a distinct view of the whole subject.
8. Countries.—Ancient Greece, in its widest extent, embraced not only the territory of Modern Greece, but the northern portion of the peninsula, as well as territory still further north. Its utmost length, including Macedonia, was about four hundred miles, and its extent about sixty thousand square miles. The southern part of the peninsula, now styled the Morea, and anciently Peloponnesus, was about equal in extent to Massachusetts. It included several small states, as Laconia, of which Sparta was the capital; Argolis, Achaia, Arcadia, Elis, and Messenia. The middle portion, now called Livadia, was anciently Hellas. Its whole extent is about equal to that of Connecticut and Rhode Island. Its chief divisions were the states of Acarnania, Ætolia, Doris, Locris, Phocis, Bœotia, Attica, and Megaris. The chief cities were Athens, in Attica, and Thebes, in Bœotia. The northern portion of Greece, and lying on the Adriatic, now called Albania, was formerly named Epirus. The contiguous territory of Thessaly is still known by the same name. In this portion was the city of Larissa. Here also is Mount Olympus, the fancied abode of the mythologic Jove, and the Vale of Tempe, celebrated
Exercises on the Map of Greece—Boundaries? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile, &c.? What are the divisions of Greece? Compare the modern with the ancient maps.
LESSON CI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Climate, products, &c.? 5. Divisions? 6. The Ionian Republic? 8. Put various questions on countries
Two days ago, I returned from an excursion in Rumelia, or Northern Greece. My route was through Bœotia to Parnassus, and thence northward to Thermopyl æ and the frontier of Thessaly, whence I crossed to the Island of Eubœa and returned by way of Chalsia to Athens. Except Acarnania, Etolia and some of the Cyclades, I have therefore visited all parts of Modern Greece, and, so far as personal observation and inquiry can accomplish in the space of four months, may consider myself tolerably familiar with the condition of the country and its inhabitants. In summing up my impressions and throwing them together in the form of a general statement, I shall endeavor to be just, believing myself to be unprejudiced. I have lately looked over several recent works on Greece, and have been surprised to find so much of a partisan spirit in them—as if the position and character of Greece and the Greeks were a question to be debated rather than a picture to be drawn. One author is too favorable, another too severe, and I foresee that, inasmuch as my path lies between the two extremes, I shall be, to some extent, discredited by both sides.
The fact is, a few deeds of splendid heroism have thrown a deceitful halo over the darker features of the Greek War of Independence, and most of those who bend in reverence to the name of Marco Bozzaris do not know that his uncle Nothi stole supplies from his own troops to sell to the Turks—that, while Canaria and Miaulis were brave and incorruptible, Colocotroni filled his purse and made cowards of his men—that, while Karaïskakis was honorable, others broke the most solemn oaths of their religion, and murdered the captives they had sworn to spare. One can say that the Greeks are what the Turks made them—that we should not expect to find in slaves the virtues of freemen; but treachery and perjury were never characteristics of the Moslem. It is the corrupt leaven of the Lower Empire which still ferments in the veins of this mixed race. I have already said, and I repeat it, that not one-fifth of the present population can with justice be called Greeks. The remainder are Slavonians, Albanians and Turks, with a slight infusion of Venetian blood. Only in Mains, on the slopes of Parnassus and in parts of Doris, did I find the ancient type in any considerable amount. In the war, the Albanian blood—the Suliotes, Hydriotes and Spetziotes—achieved the greatest distinction.
Owing to this admixture—when not always of race, yet still of character and association—there is a great diversity in the nature of the modern Greeks, and their number is still so small that one must be cautious in stating general characteristics. Some features of the ancient race are still preserved: they are vain, talkative, fond of argument, and fond of display. Their appreciation of Art, however, has utterly perished. Most of them profess a leaning toward democratic principles, yet they are pleased as children at the tawdry pomp which surrounds a throne. They are passionately fond of gain, yet, with the most elastic temperament in the world, dislike manual labor. One of their best general traits is their eagerness to learn, but, unfortunately, it ceases as soon as they are capable of obtaining an office under Government. Official corruption is as prevalent in Greece as—as—as in the United States, but there is no means of preventing it here. There is not an honest society sufficiently large, to brand the genteel pickpockets, and so the great bulk of the population are in no better condition than the Christian subjects of the Sultan, while a horde of leeches, military, naval and civil, thrive and fatten upon them. More than one prominent man here, with whom I have conversed on the state of the country, has said to me: " We want more people. What can we do "with a million of inhabitants?" Yet at this moment numbers of Greeks are emigrating from Acarnania into Turkey! There might have been, long ago, a considerable influx of German emigrants, yet the Government refused to permit it.
The Greeks have three leading virtues, which, alone, form a basis of good almost sufficient to redeem them. They are remarkably chaste, for a southern race; they are probably the most temperate people in the world; and they are most unselfish and devoted in their family relations. Their vanity, also, while it retards their progress in many respects, is a chord which may nevertheless be touched to their advantage. Being very sensitive to the judgment pronounced upon them by others, they sometimes become better for the sake of being thought better. Hence, nothing injures them so much as injudicious praise. I know a family who have acted on this principle in their treatment of servants, and their confidence has never been abused. In this case, however, an unfavorable sentence would have been a lasting misfortune, and the incitement to honesty was proportionately greater. Some Greek servants, I have reason to know, are great scamps, and the reputation of the whole class is none of the best. The honesty of the country Greeks, I think, is quite up to the average of people in their condition—in fact, I am not sure that they do not deserve credit for not being worse, seeing that the most outrageous arts of cheating are taught them by those above them.
For instance, the agriculturist is not taxed by assessment upon the value of his property, but by a tithe of what his land produces. The abominable Turkish system prevails, of farming out the entire tithes of the country to a pack of contractors, who pay a certain sum to the Government, and then make the most of their bargain. In measuring the grain, the law requires that it shall be poured lightly into the measure, and the top scraped off level, but the contractors are in the habit of shaking and settling it repeatedly, and then heaping the measure. This is only one example of their practices, and the tithes are only one form in which the people are taxed. Frequently there are special taxes levied for special objects. The money is always collected, and that is the last of it. Even the sum contributed by Government for the relief of the sufferers at Corinth melted away in passing through different hands, until less than the half of it reached its destination.
The Greeks are patriotic enough in principle, but in practice no enemy could injure Greece more than they do. There is not one who does not see the abuses under which the land is groaning, but I have yet to find the first man actively opposed to these abuses. One hears only such laments as these: " What can we do with such narrow means? We " are not responsible for our condition. The Great " Powers took away from us Crete, Chios, Epirus
" and Thessaly, to which we were justly entitled, and which would have given the basis for a strong and successful kingdom. We are hopelessly weak, and more could not be expected of us." But when I have said in reply: "If you do not achieve the most possible with the resources you have, you will never be in a situation to command greater resources. You talk of poverty, yet spend more upon your Court, proportionately, than any country in Europe. Your revenues are large enough, if properly applied, not only to meet all really necessary expenditures, but to open means of communication for the want of which the industry of your country languishes"—I have more than once heard the feeble plea: "Our Court must be suitably kept up. There cannot be a throne without a large expenditure. We Greeks are democratic, but the Great Powers gave us a throne, and since we have accepted it, the country would be disgraced if the usual accessories of a throne were wanting."
The Royal Palace at Athens cost two millions of dollars. For this sum the Greeks have an immense, ugly pile of Pentelic marble, as large as Buckingham, or the Residenz at Berlin. One fourth of the money would have built a beautiful structure, proportioned to the size and means of the country. The King has a salary of one million of drachmas ($166,666) per annum, which, to his credit, he spends in and about Athens. The Court alone swallows up about one-twelfth of the entire revenues. Then there is a list of salaried and pensioned officials—civil, military and naval—such as no country in Europe, relatively, exhibits. In the Navy there is just about one officer to every two-and-a-half men; in the Army, which numbers 9,000, all told, there are no less than seventy generals! The revenues of the country amount to something more than $3 000,000 annually, which, for a population of 1,100,000, is a sum sufficient not only for the machinery of Government; but the rapid development of the present neglected resources, yet it is easy to see how, between useless expenditure and official venality, the whole of it is swallowed up. Norway, with a smaller revenue and a larger population, supports her roads, schools, colleges, steamship lines, army, navy and police, and keeps out of debt.
The absurd jealousy of the Greeks tends still further to retard anything like Progress. There might have been a large immigration of German farmers to the uncultivated lands of the Isthmus and the Morea, but no! the pure Hellenic stock must not be corrupted by foreign grafts. The first thing the Legislative Assembly did, after Greece received a Constitution, was to pass a law, depriving all heterochthones (Greeks born in Crete, Chios, Constantinople, or anywhere outside the limits of the present kingdom) of equal civil rights. Yet the greatest private benefactors of Greece—Arsakis, Rhizari, Sina, and others, who have founded or supported her institutions of learning, science and charity—are heterochthones! This shameful law has since been repealed, but the same selfish policy prevails, and instead of making Greece a rallying point for the pride and national feeling of the entire Hellenic race, the result has been to alienate its scattered fragments. The Greeks dream of a restoration of the Byzantine Empire, rather than of the ancient republics or confederacies. They are itching to grasp Thessaly and Macedonia. Constantinople, more or less distant, lies in the plans and hopes of every Greek—and they will never get it.
Some travelers point to the Constitution of Greece, and by enumerating some sounding features, such as suffrage, free speech, a free prees, religious liberty, education, &c., give the impression that the Government is strongly Democratic in its character. But the fact is, the King does not understand a representative government—he does not even comprehend its first principles; and ever since he was compelled to sign away a portion of his power, at the canon's month, his whole study has been to recover it again. Thanks to the facilities afforded him by the Constitution itself, he has succeeded. The Senate is not only named by the King, but the Nomarchs also, and he has the right of choosing the Demarchs out of the three candidates who have the largest vote. One of these three is sure to be in the interest of the Court, and thus the whole government of the country is thrown back into his own hands. A distinguished citizen of Athens once said to me: "It is hopeless to expect anything like a just and decent administration of Government under the present system. We once, here in Athens, after great labor, and not a little intrigue, succeeded in presenting three candidates for the Demarchy, two of whom were just, enlightened men, of our own party. The third was a stupid ass, whom we prevailed upon the Court party to select, believing it to be morally impossible that he would obtain the office. But it was all in vain; the King appointed the ass." A few days ago, a Court favorite was appointed to the chief rank in the Navy over the head of the venerable Canaris, whose name will be remembered as long as the world honors a deed of splendid heroism. The true old man immediately resigned, and sent back to the King every order or token of Honor he had received at the hands of the Government.
It is a wearisome task to wade through the long list of abuses, which are kept alive by the indolence and apathy, no less than the corruption of the Greeks, nor can I refer to them without the humiliating consciousness that my Hellenic friends have the right to ask, referring to our own legislators: " Are you without sin, that you should cast stones at us?" The rapid decline of political morality at home (I speak without reference to party) makes every honest American abroad blush with shame and mortification. But our Government was comparatively pure in its early days, and either the swindler nor the traitor, the briber nor the bribed, retained his social position after conviction, as he does now.
The avidity of the Greeks for learning has often been referred to, and justly, as one of their most hopeful traits. It is general, pervading all classes, and the only qualification to be made with regard to it is that in a great many instances it arises from the desire of escaping manual labor, and obtaining the consideration which place under Government affords. Hence Greece abounds with half-educated men, who cease their studies, satisfied, at a certain point. There have been no scholars produced since the Liberation equal to Coray, or Æsopios, who still lives. The Kleptic songs are still the best poetry of Modern Greece. In History and Law something has been done: in Art, nothing at all. Nevertheless, this thirst for education promises well, and to the honor of the Greeks be it said that the first thing they did on becoming free was to make provision for schools. At present the total number of scholars in the kingdom amounts to nearly 45,000, or about 1 in 24. The University of Athens is in a very flourishing condition, the Arsakeion (under the charge of Madame Mano, a sister of Alexander Mavrocordato), numbers three hundred
[begin surface 750]female pupils, and the well-known school of Mr. and Mrs. Hill, nearly four hundred. There are also excellent seminaries at Syra, Patras, Nauplia and other places.
No persons have done more for Free Greece than our two countrymen, just named, and few things pleased me more during my journeys through the country than to notice the deep and abiding gratitude which the Greeks feel for them. They are now teaching the second generation—the children of those they taught from twenty to thirty years ago. I have had every opportunity of witnessing the plan and operations of their school, and I know of no institution of the kind which is doing a better work. I have frequently had occasion to speak of the inadequate and unsatisfactory results of American Missions in foreign lands—results attributable, in many instances, to an excess rather than a lack of zeal. Mr. and Mrs Hill have confined their efforts to educating for Greece a body of virtuous, refined, intelligent and pious women, and they have fully succeeded. Proselytism is prohibited by the law of Greece, and they have not attempted it. They therefore enjoy the love and confidence of the whole Greek people, and continue to plant the seeds of a better, purer, more enlightened life, leaving them to ripen in their own good time, and as God shall direct. Dr. King, who has been American Consul for the last seven years, occupies himself principally with the conversion of the Armenians. He has, besides, printed a great number of Greek tracts and school-books, some of which are extensively used in the schools of the country.
The principal progress which Greece has made since her liberation, has been in her commerce. The blue cross now floats, not only in every port in the Mediterranean and Black Seas, but in most of the ports of Europe. The trade carried on at Constantinople by Greek vessels is larger than that of all other nations combined. Greek houses are now common, not only in Trieste, Vienna, Marseilles, London, Paris and Manchester, but are also springing up in the United States. In spite of what is said concerning the commercial dishonesty of the Greek merchants in the Orient, those who settle in the Occident bear, generally, as good a character as their Frank brethren. The race has a natural aptitude for trade, and upon this feature one might also build a hope for the future of Greece. But what that future will be we cannot even conjecture. I do not yet believe that the Hellenic race will regenerate the Orient. A Grecian Empire, with Constantinople for its capital, is as far off as the moon. Whether the present kingdom will continue to drag along a weak existence as a petty independent power, or whether it will ultimately become the limb of a more powerful body, is a matter upon which I shall not speculate. It is significant, however, that until quite recently, the political factions in Greece bore the name of the English, Russian and French parties. Of these three, the Russian naturally was the strongest.
As the King and Queen are childless, the people are in great uncertainty as to their future ruler. According to the Constitution, the next monarch must belong to the National Church. Prince Luitpold of Bavaria, Othe's brother, has renounced his right of succession rather than change his religion. Adalbert, the youngest brother, is willing to comply, after he has possession of the throne—not before. But the son of Luitpold has a prior claim, and, in addition, the Queen is intriguing with might and main to make capital for her brother, the Protestant Prince of Oldenburg. In all these nice little plans and counter-plans, Greece is the last thing thought of. The Queen is thoroughly selfish, but it is not to be denied that she is popular, and possesses considerable influence. The King is a truly amiable man, and I believe desires to do what he can for the good of Greece; but so long as he lives, he will never realize her actual condition and necessities. The best men of Greece at present—Mavrocordato, Psyllas, Argyropoulos, and Kalerges—are not in a position to make their influence felt as it deserves, and so the country goes on in a blind way, heedless of the Future so long as it can bear the weight of the Present without breaking down.
I write these things in sorrow, and wish that my impressions were of a more cheering character. I should hail the success of Greece with as sincere a joy as any of her citizens; I should be glad to know that more of the ancient blood and the ancient genius was still extant—but I must not give you what I cannot find. Is there really no resurrection of a dead nation ? No enduring vitality in those qualities of the old race, which triumphed for a thousand years? Cannot those "arts of war and peace" which sprang from Greece and the Grecian Isles flourish again in the arms of a purer religion and a more enlightened law ? The answer may be given a century hence, but not now. B. T.
[begin surface 752]in song as one of the most lovely spots to be found in the world. Macedonia extended from Thrace to the Ionian Sea, comprising a number of provinces. On the north lay Mount Hœmus, the present Balkan. Pella was the capital. To the east of Macedon was Thrace, these two being now called Roumelia. Thrace was not properly a portion of Greece, and was originally occupied by a distinct nation; yet it was conquered by Philip of Macedonia, and constituted a portion of the empire of his son Alexander. Many individuals, also, who settled in Greece, and became connected with its fame, were of Thracian birth. The chief city was Byzantium, near Constantinople. Mœsia, extending from Macedon to the Danube, on the north; Dacia, south of the Carpathian Mountains; and Pannonia, along the southern bank of the Danube, were all remote countries inhabited by savages, and scarcely known to the more ancient Greeks.
9. Islands.—On the west of Greece is the Ionian Sea, in which are the islands now forming the Ionian Republic :
A table listing the islands that form the Ionian Republic, along with their areas in square miles, populations, populations to square miles, ancient names, and capitals.East of Greece is the Ægean Sea, now called the Archipelago, and studded with numerous islands. They are generally fertile and beautiful. Forty of these are deemed considerable. The following table exhibits the most important :
A table listing the most important islands in the Greek Archipelago.To the south of these is Crete, now Candia, the largest island in the Mediterranean, and conspicuous in history. At present it is subject to Turkey. Along the coast of Asia Minor are Cyprus, Rhodes, Cos, Samos, Chios, &c.
A table listing the modern and ancient names of islands in the Mediterranean.All in this list properly belong to Asia. Their history is, however, intimately connected with Greece, as there were Greek colonies here, as well as at various points along the coast of Asia Minor.
10. Mountains, Rivers, &c.—Although the territory of Greece was small—less, in its widest extent, than one of our larger states—it is supposed to have had a population of five or six millions in its most flourishing period—that is, in the time of Pericles, about 450 B. C. Its mountains, its rivers, its valleys, its islands, are all diminutive, in comparison with others that are found in different parts of the world; yet, associated with the name and fame of the ancient Greeks, they are invested with an interest that can never die. Besides these natural objects, which possess a claim upon the sympathies of every intelligent mind, there are some vestiges of ancient art which still bespeak the genius of their founders, such as the ruins of the temples of Theseus and Minerva, at Athens, &c.
11. History.—We have already given a rapid historical sketch of Greece. The most remarkable state in that renowned country was Attica, of which Athens was the capital. This city was composed of two parts—the Acropolis, or Upper City, built on a rocky eminence, including the citadel, and the Lower City, built on the plain below. On the Acropolis were a number of magnificent buildings. One of the most splendid was the Temple of Minerva. This was burned by the Persians when they overran Greece, 480 B. C., though their power was effectually broken by the famous battle of Salamis, which immediately followed.
9. Islands? Repeat the ancient and modern names. 10. Mountains, &c.? 11. History? Temple of Minerva? Battle of Salamis?
About the year 445, Athens having been rebuilt, Pericles caused the Parthenon to be restored. Its majestic and beautiful ruins remain to the present day, and form an object of the highest interest to the beholder. Athens continued, for several centuries, to be the center of art, philosophy, learning, and refinement. To this place, the principal philosophers, poets, orators, &c., were drawn. Here Socrates, Plato, Diogenes, Zeno, and others, spent the greater part of their lives. The population of Athens, including the little state of Attica, was about half a million, three-fourths of whom were slaves. Sparta was the capital of Lacedæmon. The people here despised the elegance, vivacity, and social refinement of the Athenians, and shaped their institutions exclusively with a view to make good soldiers. They became very powerful as a military state, but the people, generally, were hard, barbarous, and selfish. Individual liberty was completely surrendered to the state. While the Athenians have never ceased to instruct mankind by their genius, as displayed in arts, science, and philosophy, Sparta has left almost nothing but the record of its stern achievements in war. After the conquest of Greece by the Romans, in 146 B. C., it continued under the dominion of that empire for several centuries. In 328 A. D., the Emperor Constantine transferred the seat of empire to the ancient town of Byzantium, in Thrace, where he had built a new city, by the name of Constantinople. From the division of the Roman Empire, 395, Constantinople continued to be the capital of the Eastern Empire, which afterward received the name of the Greek or Byzantine Empire. While the Western Empire was overthrown in 476, the Eastern continued for nearly a thousand years later. At first, it embraced Greece, Macedonia, and Thrace in Europe, the greater part of Western Asia, Egypt, and Northern Africa. The capital was ravaged by the Crusaders, and, for a time, the empire passed into the hands of a new line of sovereigns. During this period, which continued for fifty-six years, it is called the Latin Empire. Michael Palæologus recovered the throne in 1260. Toward the close of the fourteenth century, the Turks had gained possession of Egypt, and the greater part of Asia Minor. The Sultan Amurath captured Adrianople, 1366, and gained a permanent footing in Europe. The Greek Empire was now almost reduced to the single city of Constantinople. In 1453, the celebrated Mohammed II. captured that city by assault, after a long and vigorous siege. Thus fell the Greek Empire; and upon its ruins arose the Ottoman Empire, occupying, for about four centuries, nearly the same territories in Europe, Asia, and Africa, as those which had constituted the Byzantine kingdom. The Turks speedily became formidable to their northern neighbors. They conquered some portions of the German Empire, and, under Solyman the Magnificent, laid siege to Vienna in 1529. He was, however, compelled to retire, with the loss of 80,000 men. For a long period, the Ottoman Empire continued to be distinguished for wealth, intelligence, enterprise, and military power. Many of the master-spirits of Christendom were drawn into its army and navy, and contributed to increase its energy and power. Toward the close of the seventeenth century, it began to decline, and finally sunk into indolence and imbecility. Within the last thirty years, it has lost Egypt and the Barbary States. In 1821, the Greeks, who had been under the harsh dominion of the Turks for four hundred years, rose in rebellion, and, after a protracted struggle, established their independence. In October, 1827, a Turkish fleet of one hundred sail was completely destroyed by the allied British and French squadron, in the battle of Navarino. From this fatal blow the Ottoman Empire has not yet recovered. In 1832, Greece was acknowledged as an independent kingdom; Otho, a Bavarian prince, being selected as king. By the constitution, promulgated in 1844, the government consists of a king, senate, and house of representatives. Since this period, Greece seems to have gradually risen from the depression occasioned by long ages of ignominious slavery.
1. Characteristics.—This country is remarkable as being the seat and center of the Ottoman Empire.
2. Mountains, &c.—Most of the surface is an undulating region of hills and valleys, with mountains and tablelands of little elevation. It is crossed in the center, nearly from east to west, by the Balkan Range, the ancient Hœmus. To the north are the Carpathians, extending into Hungary; the Pindus Range extends southward into Greece. It is watered by numerous rivers, the chief of which is the Danube.
3. Climate, &c.—The climate at the north is severe, snow lying upon the higher mountains the greater part of the year. South of the Balkan, the climate is delicious. Earthquakes and destructive storms occur in some parts. A large portion of the territory is covered with forests of firs and deciduous trees. The olive, vine, rice, cotton, maize and other grains, are the products of agriculture. The bear, wolf, wild boar, chamois, and stag are common in the forests. The domestic animals comprise the sheep, a small breed of horses, the mule, ass, domesticated buffalo, hog, &c. Fish abound in the rivers, and leeches in the marshes. There are mines of iron, lead, salt, and marble; but none are worked to advantage. The manufactures are almost entirely domestic—comprising saddles, fire-arms, swords, coarse woolens, linen and cotton spinning, copper and tin utensils, rich carpets, tanneries, and embroideries. Printing exists only at Constantinople and four other places. The commerce is chiefly in the hands of the Greeks, Armenians, and Jews.
4. Political Divisions.—The following are the divisions of Turkey in Europe: A table listing the provinces and chief cities of Turkey in Europe.
Besides these, there are the three provinces of Moldavia, Wallachia, and Servia, north of the Danube, of which Jassy, Bucharest, and Belgrade are the capitals. These are tributary to the Porte, but are otherwise independent, except that Russia exercises over them a controlling influence. The people are of various races. Christianity is the leading religion. The inhabitants are in a rude state, but it is said they are improving.
5. Government, &c.—The emperor, who is styled
Exercises on the Map (p. 220).—Boundaries of Turkey? Describe the Balkan Mountains. The Danube. Where is Constantinople? Adrianople? Jassy? Salonica? Mount Olympus?
LESSON CII. 1. Characteristics of Turkey? 2. Mountains, &c.?
[begin surface 768]Sultan, or Grand Seignior, is regarded as absolute sovereign of the state, as well as supreme pontiff. His power extends not only to European, but to Asiatic Turkey; the latter containing a territory more than twice as large as the former, and about an equal population. The provinces are placed under pashas, or governors, whose administration is capricious and oppressive. About one-third of the population consists of Turks; the rest are Albanians, Jews, Bohemians, Gipsies, Moldavians, &c. The Christians are fully equal to the Turks in number. In religion, the Turks are Mohammedans, and formerly were very bigoted, regarding Christians, especially, with great contempt. Of late years, they have become more tolerant. The present Sultan appears to be a man of liberal views and enlightened policy. He has introduced European tactics into his army and navy. The Turks are an Asiatic people, and, in most respects, retain Asiatic customs. The turban is generally worn upon the head by both sexes; though a kind of cap, with a large silk tassel, called a Fez, has partially taken its place with the men, in many of the larger towns. The loose robe and wide trowsers have, to some extent, given place to the surtout and pantaloons. The richer Turks have several wives. Women generally are kept in a state of seclusion. The people eat with their fingers; pray five times a day to Mohammed; wear turbans on the head, and flowing robes on the body; sit cross-legged on mats and cushions; have long, flowing beards; and smoke opium.
6. Chief Towns.—Constantinople, the capital, is one of the largest cities of Europe. Its situation is beautiful, and its external aspect imposing; yet it has numerous crooked streets, and gloomy dwellings of wood. There are three hundred mosques, or places of Mohammedan worship. The seraglio, or palace, is a large collection of buildings, where the sultan lives in vast pomp and luxury. Here he has several hundred wives, kept secluded, according to the custom of the country, in a place called a harem. Adrianople is the second city in European Turkey.
7. History.—The Ottomans, or Turks, originated in Tartary, in the vicinity of the Caspian Sea. Some tribes of the same race still exist in that country. Though resembling the Tartars, and included with them, by the ancients, under the general name of Scythians, they are a distinct people. In the eleventh century, Seljuk, chief of a Turkish tribe, led his followers southward, and they afterward made a settlement in Persia, which is known in history as the Seljukian Empire. This flourished for 150 years, and was broken up by Zingis Khan, the terrible Mongol conqueror, A. D. 1250. A wandering band of these Turks took refuge in Armenia. Othman, or Osman, one of the chiefs of these, established himself at Iconium, in Asia Minor, and is regarded as the founder of the Ottoman Empire, which takes its name from him. Osman II., who came to the throne in 1326, first took the title of Sultan. He extended his territories in Asia Minor, then belonging to the Byzantine Empire. He captured Prusa, and made it his capital, under the title of Brusa. Orchan, his successor, crossed the Hellespont in 1358, and captured Gallipoli. He founded the famous body-guard of janizaries, mostly composed of Greek captives taken in war. Amurath I. succeeded his father, Orchan, and immediately overran the whole of Thrace, from the Hellespont to Mount Hœmus, and fixed the seat of the Turkish government at Adrianople. He conquered the greater part of Greece, and made formidable attacks upon Hungary and Constantinople. He was succeeded by his son Bajazet, in 1387. This chief obtained the name of Ilderim, or lightning, from the rapidity of his martial movements. In 1407, he was defeated, at Galatia, in Asia Minor, by the celebrated Tamerlane. He was captured, and it is said that he died in an iron cage, in which he was confined. Several able sultans now succeeded. The rich and beautiful territories of the Saracens, consisting of Syria, Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Northern Africa, had successively fallen under the conquering sway of the Turks. In 1451, Mohammed II., the most distinguished of the Ottoman sovereigns, came to the throne. In 1453, he captured Constantinople, the last remnant of the Byzantine Empire. (See History of Greece, and Turkey in Asia.)
3. Climate, &c.? 4. Divisions? 5. Government, &c.? 6. Chief towns? 7. History? What of Zingis Khan? Bajazet?
1. Characteristics.—This kingdom, comprising several distinct nations, is one of the most extensive and populous in Europe.
2. Divisions.—The following table embraces the divisions of the Austrian empire:— A table listing the provinces and capitals of Austria with their respective populations. The latter kingdom has been already described under Italy, and its population is there included.
3. Austria Proper—part of the ancient Noricum, is an archduchy and the seat and center of the Austrian empire. It is divided into Upper and Lower Austria. Its southern border is skirted by a branch of the Alps, and is the country traversed from west to east by the Danube. It has numerous mountain lakes, and highly picturesque scenery. It is fertile, and admirably cultivated, though there are extensive forests. Grapes are produced, and twenty-five million gallons of wine, annually. Gold, silver, lead, iron, arsenic, alum, &c., are found. The weaving and spinning of flax, cotton, and wool are the main branches of manufacturing industry. Vienna, the capital, is one of the most splendid cities in Europe. Here the emperor resides. The government of the Austrian empire, as a monarchy, is nearly absolute, there being local governments, however, in the several divisions. The army of the empire is about 400,000 men. The fortifications are very numerous. The navy comprises 65 vessels, mostly small. The annual revenue is $70,000,000. The public debt is $475,000,000. The history of Austria proper goes back to the time of Charlemagne, who conquered it in 791. In 1156, it became a duchy. Rodolph of Hapsburg was the founder of its subsequent greatness. He was elected emperor of Germany in 1272, and from this time, the house of Austria became prominent in Europe. In 1516, the Austrian empire, under Charles V., surpassed any other European power that had existed since the days of Charlemagne. On the death of Charles, his empire was dismembered. The Emperor of Austria, however, was generally Emperor of Germany, till the German empire was overthrown by Napoleon, in 1806. During the subsequent wars with the French, Austria suffered severely; but in 1815 her territory was restored. In 1848, extensive insurrections broke out in northern Italy and Hungary, but they were suppressed in 1849.
4. The Tyrol—part of the ancient Rhœtia, is a small country among the eastern Alps. It is mountainous, with numerous lakes, and greatly resembles Switzerland. The several grains are cultivated. Wine and silk are produced in the south. Cattle form the chief wealth of the rural inhabitants. Most parts of Europe are supplied with canaries
and other singing birds from the valley of the Inn. Wolves, bears, wild-boars, marmots, chamois, &c., inhabit the mountain districts. Coal, iron, and salt are the principal minerals. The manufactures are considerable. The climate is cold at the north, and mild at the south, especially in the valleys. The people are hardy and brave, with great simplicity of character. They are devout ^Roman Catholics, but not intolerant. They have a local government, which, however, is subservient to Austria, to which the people are strongly attached. This country came into the possession of the House of Hapsburg in the thirteenth century. Innsprück is the capital.
5. Styria—anciently a part of Pannonia, was conquered by Charlemagne, and annexed to Austria in the twelfth century. It consists principally of a valley, divided by a branch of the Alps. The surface is much broken. The inhabitants raise various grains, hemp, flax, tobacco, cattle, and sheep. The mining of iron, copper, salt, alum, and coal, forms a chief branch of industry. The inhabitants are mostly Roman Catholic. There is an annual pilgrimage to the shrine of the Virgin Mary at Mariazell, consisting of persons from nearly all parts of the Austrian dominions. The pilgrims are mostly of the poorer classes, the larger part being women. They go in regular procession, most of them being barefoot. Grätz, the capital, is an important town, picturesquely situated on the Mur. It has extensive fortifications, and communicates with Vienna and Trieste by railways.
6. Illyria.—This kingdom, anciently Illyricum, is a mountainous country, with a mild climate and good soil. It yields wine, olive-oil, wheat, maize, and cattle. Its mines produce gold, silver, mercury, lead, copper, and iron. The chief manufactures are woolen cloths and glass. The commerce centers at Trieste. The greater part of the population belongs to the Slavonic race. Trieste, the capital, is the principal seaport of the Austrian empire. The harbor is small but convenient. The commerce is extensive. In the Middle Ages it was the capital of a republic. The kingdom of Illyria was formed by Napoleon in 1809, making part of the French empire. It assumed its present form in 1822.
7. Bohemia—the seat of the ancient Boii, is styled a kingdom. It is an elevated plateau, nearly encircled by lofty mountains. It is crossed by the river Elbe. The climate is cold in the mountains, but mild and delightful in the valleys. It is alike rich in its mineral, agricultural, and manufacturing products. The transit trade is considerable. The Elbe and the Moldau are navigated by steam-packets. The Roman Catholic is the religion of the state. The people are hardy and cheerful, fond of travel, and possess high musical talent. They are inclined to superstition, and pay great reverence to images. The peasants are much oppressed by their masters. Prague, the capital, is a large and flourishing city on the Moldau. It is the center of Bohemian commerce. The university here is much celebrated. Bohemia came into the possession of Austria, A. D. 1526. The Emperor of Austria bears the title of the King of Bohemia, and is crowned at Prague.
8. Moravia—anciently inhabited by the Quadi and Marcomanni, is an elevated table-land, with a fertile soil and a very mild climate. Its agriculture is thriving, and its vineyards are very extensive. Its agriculture and mining industry are highly productive. Brunn, the capital, is an important town, and is connected with Vienna by a railroad.
Exercises on the Map (p. 220).—Boundaries of Austria? Capital? Describe the Danube. Boundaries of Hungary? Moravia, &c.? What mountains in the west and north of Hungary? Where is Trieste? Prague? Innsprück? Buda? Hermanstadt?
LESSON CIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Divisions? 3. Austria Proper? 4. The Tyrol? 5. Styria? 6. Illyria? 7. Bohemia?
[begin surface 770]It was the head-quarters of Napoleon before the battle of Austerlitz, which took place in December, 1805. This town is twelve miles south of Brunn.
9. Silesia—anciently inhabited by the Quadi, became subject to Poland in the sixth century. The country has a rough surface, with extensive forests. The agricultural and mineral products are very considerable. This Austrian district is only the southern part of Silesia, conquered from Austria by Frederick the Great, in 1742. It is annexed to the government of Moravia.
10. Dalmatia—anciently a part of Illyria, belonged to Hungary till the fifteenth century, when, for a long period, it became the seat of war between the Austrians and Turks. It was annexed to Austria in 1797. It is traversed by branches of the Alps, running parallel to the coast. The climate is very mild. The sirocco blows for three months in the year, and is much dreaded. The soil is good. Agriculture is in a rude state. Salt is a profitable article of export. Coal and iron are found. The fisheries employ 8000 people. Ship-building is an active branch of industry, and there are good harbors along the coast. The inhabitants are mostly Slavonic, and a greater part are Roman Catholics.
11. Hungary—is an extensive kingdom, traversed by branches of the Carpathian mountains. It is crossed by the Danube, and the Theis, one of its tributaries. In the mountains the climate is cold; in the valleys it is mild and agreeable. It is healthy, except in the extensive marshes. The vine, fig, and orange are cultivated in the more southern districts. The mountains are covered with dense forests. The products of agriculture are all kinds of grain, tobacco, cattle, and vineyards. Next to France, Hungary is the greatest wine country in Europe. The swine are estimated at eight millions. Bees are extensively reared. Wild game abounds and fish are plentiful in the rivers. The gold washings are important. Copper, iron, and lead are extensively wrought. The trade on the rivers is very extensive. Pesth , united to Buda, constitutes the capital. The Slavonians are the majority of the population. The Magyars are, however, the leading race. The upper classes are well educated; the masses are ignorant. The Magyars are generally Protestants, and are a high-spirited, intelligent, and independent people. Hungary received the name of Pannonia from the Romans. At that time, about 200 B. C., the country appears to have been occupied by a branch of the Scythians, who originated near Lake Baikal, in central Asia. These were the Alans, who were afterward joined by the Huns, also from central Asia, forming the populous empire of Attila in the fifth century. These people are represented as of small stature, but vigorous and warlike. The men rode small hardy horses, and seemed to live the greater part of the time on horseback. The country of the Huns was successively overrun by several Gothic tribes. In the ninth century, a people from central Asia, named Magyars, penetrated hither, conquered the country, and established themselves in it. Arpad, their leader, is regarded as the founder of Hungary, though the title of king was not taken till the year 1000, when Transylvania was added to the territory. From this period, Hungary makes a prominent figure in history. During a part of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it was subject to the Turks. Civil war and insurrections, which had desolated the country for a long period, ceased in 1711, when the country finally came under the power of Austria. At various times the Hungarians have rallied in support of the Austrian sovereigns, but of late they have become dissatisfied with the government. In 1848 and 1849, they made a noble effort to deliver themselves from the Austrian yoke. Austria was joined by the Russians, and, after several sanguinary battles, the Hungarians were finally defeated by the treachery of Gen. Georgey. Kossuth, their noble leader, escaped into Turkey, where he was detained until 1851. He was then released, at the intercession of the American and English governments.
12. Sclavonia—part of ancient Pannonia, is called a kingdom. It derives its name from the Sclavi, who settled there in the seventh century, and who formed a part of the great Sarmatian family, called Sclavonians . In the tenth century, it came under the dominion of Hungary, and was confirmed to Austria in 1699.
8. Moravia? 9. Silesia? 10. Dalmatia? 11. Hungary? Its history? Arpaa? Revolution of 1848? Kossuth? 12. Slavonia?
[begin surface 774]13. Croatia—inhabited in early times by Pannonians, is divided between Austria and Turkey. Austrian Croatia has a fertile soil, producing grains and vines. The climate is mild. The inhabitants are a branch of the Sclavonic family. The country has been in the hands of various masters. This, as well as Sclavonia , has been for a long time attached to the kingdom of Hungary. In the late war, the Croats assisted Austria against the Hungarians.
14. Transylvania—part of the ancient Dacia, has been a principality since 1765. It is covered with branches of the Carpathian range. The climate is cold among the mountains, but very mild in the valleys. The soil is various; the forests are extensive. There are bears, wolves, and abundance of game. There is an immense bed of rock-salt, extending into Wallachia and Galicia. The mineral products are valuable. Agriculture is the chief employment. The inhabitants comprise fourteen distinct races. The Catholic and Greek religions prevail.
15. The Military Frontier—consists of a narrow strip of territory, extending for nearly 1000 miles along the Turkish frontier, from the Gulf of Venice to Galicia. It was long since established by the Austrian government as a barrier against the Turks. The present inhabitants are at the same time soldiers and cultivators of the soil, but ready for the defense of the country. The present system for its government was organized in 1807.
16. Galicia—formerly belonging to Poland, came to Austria in the partitions of 1772 and 1795. It was at one period comprised in what is called Red Russia. It includes the ancient principality of Lodomeria. Bukovina was formerly one of the divisions of East Galicia. Galicia mostly consists of wide plains. The climate is rigorous. Cattle, horses, and bees are extensively reared. The inhabitants are of Sclavonic origin, and speak the Polish language. Jews are numerous. The Roman Catholic and Greek religions prevail. Education is in a backward state.
17. General Remarks on Austria.—It will be perceived that the Austrian empire, consisting originally of the small central portion which is inhabited by Germans, has been gradually built up by getting possession of the various countries around it, mainly lying to the south and east. Thus, it exercises dominion over a great number of nations of different origin, history, religion, manners, and customs. The emperors of Austria were also emperors of Germany the greater part of the time, for the space of nearly 500 years, till the German empire was overthrown by Napoleon in 1806. The general tenor of the government has been despotic, and adverse to improvement. Hence the Austrian dominions are behind most portions of Germany in every species of progress.
18. Republic of Cracow.—This consisted of the city of that name, the second capital of Poland, with its territory, lying upon the Vistula. In 1815, the Congress of Vienna, in plundering Poland for the last time, could not agree whether Cracow should belong to Russia, Prussia, or Austria. They therefore guarantied its neutrality and inviolability as a republic. It flourished for 30 years as the center of a valuable commerce. But Austria, under pretence that Cracow was the resort of political agitators, crushed this republic in 1846, and took the territory to herself, France, England, and Russia quietly submitting.
1. Characteristics.—This is an important kingdom of Central Europe, consisting of two distinct territories—one portion bordering on Russia, the other traversed by the Rhine. Between these are several small German states.
2. Face of the Country, &c.—The surface of Prussia is generally flat, except in the province of Saxony, which is crossed by the Hartz Mountains. It has 500 miles of coast upon the Baltic. The Rhine, celebrated for its beautiful valley, is navigable for large vessels and steamers to a considerable distance. The Prussian territories bordering on this river have a fine climate, are highly cultivated, and occupied by numerous towns and cities. The region around Magdeburg, on the Elbe, is called the garden of Berlin. The eastern provinces have numerous lakes, and a cold and humid climate, with many fertile tracts The territory of Prussia is highly productive. Agriculture, the chief source of the national wealth, is carefully conducted. The Rhenish wines are very celebrated. The lynx, beaver, badger, otter, wild-boar, stag, fallow-deer, marten, and wild-goose, are common in some of the provinces. The manufactures are important. The commerce is very active, and has been recently much increased by the system called Zollverein, or commercial customs-union.
3. Political Divisions.— A table listing the provinces and chief cities of Prussia with their populations. Posen was formerly a part of Poland: Posen, its capital, was the metropolis of ancient Poland. It was assigned to Prussia by the Congress of Vienna, in 1815. Pomerania is a large province, in a backward and barbarous state. Silesia was taken from Austria in 1742. Brandenburg is a province in the center of the kingdom, and forms its nucleus. Saxony is a province contiguous to the Kingdom of Saxony, and taken from that kingdom, and given to Prussia, in 1815. Westphalia was part of the kingdom of that name established by Napoleon, his brother Jerome being king. This was dismembered in 1815, the province being then given to Prussia.
4. Government, &c.—This is an hereditary monarchy; the authority of the king was formerly absolute, but is now modified by the constitution of 1847. The roads are good. The canals, railroads, and telegraphic lines are numerous, radiating from Berlin. The population consists of two-thirds Germans and one-third Sclavonians. The state religion is Protestant, but all creeds are tolerated. Education has been made nearly universal by the government. There are 24,000 elementary schools. There are, also, numerous universities of high standing, and many celebrated literary and learned societies. The standing army is 137,000, and the men capable of bearing arms 837,000. Prussia has no navy, but the mercantile marine is under the control of the government. The public revenue is $88,566,380; the public debt, $162,861,444. Berlin, the
13. Croatia? 14. Transylvania? 15. The military frontier? 16. Galicia? 17. General remarks on Austria? 18. Republic of Cracow?
Exercises on the Map (see p. 220).—Boundaries of Prussia? Capital? Describe the Elbe; the Oder; the Rhine. What sea at the north? Where is Brandenburg? Silesia? Posen?
LESSON CIV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Face of the country?
capital, is a magnificent city. Dantzic has an extensive commerce, and great wealth. There are many other large and interesting cities. The people are brave, industrious, and fond of military parade. Some of the women labor in the fields with the men.
5. History.—The Kingdom of Prussia is of modern origin. In the early ages, it was occupied by Gothic tribes, among whom were the Vindili. It remained nearly in a savage state till 1226, when one of the kings of Poland, to whom the country belonged, gave a portion of the territory upon the Vistula to the Teutonic knights. These subjugated East Prussia, and converted the people to Christianity. Albert of Brandenburg, grand master of the order, appropriated the country in 1525; his family augmented these possessions. Frederic, one of his descendants, obtained the title of king in 1701, and acquired the principality of Neufchatel, in Switzerland. By the treaty of Utrecht, William I. obtained a portion of the duchy of Gelders; he acquired the duchy of Limburg, and took from Sweden the greater part of Pomerania. Frederic, surnamed the Great, came to the throne in 1740. He was one of the most renowned warriors of the eighteenth century. He conquered Silesia, which was abandoned by Austria in 1742. During a reign of forty-six years, he nearly doubled the Prussian territory. This king and his successor took part in the dismemberment of Poland, and thus acquired the grand-duchy of Posen. By the treaty of Tilsit, in 1807, Prussia was deprived of all her possessions between the Rhine and the Elbe, and the greater part of Prussian Poland; but in 1815, after the fall of Napoleon, the Congress of Vienna restored all these estates, except a part of Poland; and, at the same time, granted to Prussia a part of Saxony, and the duchy of the Lower Rhine. Thus the fabric of the Prussian monarchy has been built up in modern times by conquest and diplomacy, and is now one of the "Five Great Powers" which control the political destinies of Europe.
1. Characteristics.—Germany is a term given to nearly forty kingdoms, duchies, and principalities in Central Europe, the people of which are mostly of German origin, and have been, for the greater part of the last 1000 years, united in one empire.
2. Mountains, &c.—The southern part of this great territory is diversified by several branches of the Alps. The middle region consists of a plateau, crossed by the Rhine and Elbe, with their various branches. The northern region slopes down to flats, which in some places require dykes to protect them from the sea. The rivers are numerous. The Oder, Elbe, and Rhine flow northward. The course of the Danube is southeast, flowing into the Black Sea.
3. Climate, Soil, &c.—The climate is various, but generally mild and healthy. A great part of the soil is highly fertile, and industriously cultivated. There are numerous forests, among which the wild-boar, bear, and wolf, the marmot, chamois, lynx, fox, marten, weasel, eagle, and vulture are found in different parts. Fish are not abundant. Domestic animals abound. The common products of agriculture are yielded in great quantities. The wines in the south are excellent and abundant. The mines comprise gold, silver, iron, tin, lead, mercury, bismuth, zinc, &c. The manufactures are various and abundant, but steam power and machinery are less employed than in some other countries. The internal commerce of Germany, formerly greatly embarrassed by the levying of duties in each separate state through which goods passed, has been lately promoted by the Zollverein, which reduces them to a single duty. Steam-packets upon the rivers, an excellent system of railways, comprising a line of more than 3000 miles, with various canals, greatly facilitate this important commerce.
4. Political Divisions.—The following table exhibits
3. Divisions? 4. Government, &c.? 5. History?
Exercises on the Map of Germany (see p.220).—Describe the position of Germany. Where is Wirtemberg? Hanover? Bavaria? Where is Frankfort? Stutgard? Munich? Dresden?
LESSON CV. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Climate, soil, &c.? 4. Political divisions? 5. Inhabitants?
[begin surface 776]the several German states, with their extent, population, religion, &c., including the German portions of Austria and Prussia: A table listing the states of Germany with their areas in square miles, populations, populations to square miles, capitals, and populations of capitals.
5. Inhabitants.—The inhabitants of the numerous states embraced under the title of Germany amount to upwards of 45,000,000. The chief branches of industry among them are agriculture, cattle rearing, and mining. The greater portion are descendants of the various tribes which settled down in great numbers upon the banks of the Rhine, Elbe, and Oder, and received the ancient name of Teutones, or Germans. There are many other races scattered in different parts, including some Jews, Slavonians, Italians, and French. The rich and powerful German language is every where predominant, though many of the peasants speak impure dialects. Protestantism prevails in the north, and Catholicism in the south. In many of the states, there are good common schools. Universities, lyceums, academies, learned societies, and richly furnished public libraries, abound. Many arts, including architecture, painting, lithography, engraving, and printing, are carried to a high degree of perfection. Various products of the press are widely distributed by peddlers, many German Peddler. of whom find their way to this country. The people have never attained the refinement of the French, but they are distinguished for integrity and industry. The great inventions of gunpowder and printing, with many others of less importance, were made here. The intellectual powers of the German which are of a high order, have been displayed in an immense number of works, in every branch of literature.
6. Cities.—The cities of Germany are very numerous, and many of them are splendid. Others are interesting on account of their institutions, or their historical associations. Mentz, or Mayence, on the Rhine, in Hesse-Darmstadt, is the birthplace of Guttenberg , the inventor of printing, in 1344, where a statue is raised to his memory. Munich Gallery of Fine Arts at Munich. Statue of Guttenberg . is one of the handsomest cities in Germany, and celebrated for its gallery of the fine arts. Frankfort-on-the-Maine, encircled by beautiful gardens, is noted as the birthplace of the poet Goethe, and as being the capital of the former Germanic Confederation. Aix-la-Chapelle is celebrated for its hot-baths, and for being the capital and burying-place of Charlemagne. There are at least a hundred other cities in Germany, which possess a high degree of historical interest.
Natural Pillars in Saxon Switzerland.7. Curiosities.—In the Prussian province of Saxony is the Hartz range of mountains, the chief elevation of which is the Brocken. This is the cradle of many superstitions, especially that of the " Wild Huntsman." It is also the scene of the spectral delusion called the " Specter of the Brocken." The form of a man standing upon the hight is, under certain circumstances, reflected in a gigantic image upon the clouds. The mountainous part of the kingdom of Saxony is called Saxon Switzerland. Here, southeast of Dresden, are groups of natural rock, rising like the pillars
Industry? Language? Religion ' Education? Inventions? 6. Cities? Mentz, Munich, Aix-la-Chapelle, &c.? 7. Curiosities?
The fetes celebrated in this old city in honor of he Prince of Qrange ,—the heir presumptive to the throne, on occasion of his attaining the age of eighteen,—have just been concluded; and I having attended them in pursuance of an invitation which I was not at liberty to disregard, I have spent several days here amusing myself quite as much in studying the place and the people as in participating in the diversions of the Court. Amsterdam has the swing of a large, rich and business-like city. You see at once that it is an important place. Those unmistakeable signs of greatness—enormous wealth and abject poverty—extremes between which run all the grades of worldly condition—strike your eye every where within its borders. Houses, plain to be sure in their architecture and characteristic, in their substantial construction, of the people, but large, and even grand, are observed on the wider and more leading streets, while alleys and lanes abound where the poor and squallid live, huddled together in tall and narrow buildings. The cafes are large and lively. The stores are well supplied. The warehouses are spacious. The docks are enormous. The canals are not like those in the rest of Holland, comparatively narrow, but are wide and capacious. The exchange is as bustling as wall street, and you will see much gouty wealth hobbling on crutches from its carriages to the interior room where it studies only bonds and stocks as its daily occupation. In fine, opulence and indigence, activity and idleness, churches and dance-houses, religion and vice, indicate the population of a large metropolitan and commercial city. But it is the most astonishing of all the capitals of Europe. It is built on piles in what was once a marsh, and is only preserved from almost daily inundation from the waters of the Y, on which it is situated—an inlet of the Zuider Zee —by strong and expensive dykes along the water's edge. You marvel as you look upon the splendid stores and warehouses, the churches, the palace, and other public buildings, how the industry and art, and perseverance of this people could have accomplished all this, and could have rescued from the mud a city of some ten miles in circumference, confined the oozing waters within a score of channels, and made them the streams upon whose banks is deposited more wealth than is possessed by any other city of its size in the world. In shape Amsterdam forms a semicircle, the Y being the diameter. Besides other smaller canels , four larger ones, called grachts, each two miles or more in length, run through it parallel with the outer arc. Fronting on these large canals are the best buildings. The shipping, which is extensive, goes into docks on the lower side of the city. The trade of Holland with America is, however, not carried on at this port. The average number of American ships which have arrived here for the last few years is eighteen only, and these have not come generally direct from America, but have been freighted at some intermediate country where they had previously gone on a voyage. Rotterdam is a more convenient port for the American trade, which is consequently, for the most part, carried on with that port.
It is a remarkable fact that with all the enterprise of our countrymen there is not a single American established in Amsterdam or, indeed, more than one in all the provinces of the Netherlands, except those who have been sent there officially; and, what is more, there never has been any such in Amsterdam within the memory of man. If there have been any the tradition of it is lost. Good reasons may perhaps be given for this—the solitariness of the language, the out-of-the-way position of the country, and others; but it is undeniably the truth that the Dutch have an aversion to such strangers as do not come among them very highly accredited; and, besides being exceedingly suspicious of adventurers, are clannish among themselves. They regard it their first duty to help their own kith and kin. They trade among their family relations and connexions in preference to others, even when it is attended with much inconvenience; and so extensive and ramified oftentimes are these relationships that it is not an unusual circumstance to have a doctor and a lawyer, a butcher, a baker, a grocer, a tailor and other tradesmen and shop-keepers within the family circle, in a nearer or remote degree, sufficiently numerous to supply almost any want without going beyond it, so that if there were no other barriers in the way, there would be from this cause alone a great obstacle in the way of a Yankee's success among them. Certain it is that his inventive faculties would be put to the severest test here of any place in the world; but, it may be added, if he once succeeded in breaking the line, his fortune would be made for the same steadfastness of character which the Dutch observe towards themselves, they also exhibit to all who once obtain their confidence.
A large portion of the population is composed of Jews who live in a quarter by themselves. Every where you encounter that peculiar physionomy which marks the chosen people of God. Their ancestors fled to Holland in great numbers during the early days of the republic when its free institutions and maritime power made it an asylum for the persecuted of all creeds of the other so-called Christian nations of Europe. While the English puritans fled here from the intolerance of the Protestant church, and the French Huguenots from the massacrees of the Catholics, the Jews of Germany and Portugal and other countries, also found a like protection and a home. They retain the religion of their forefathers although in their costume and manners they have become identified with the rest of the people of the city. They exercise a proportionate degree of influence in the public affairs. They are exceedingly jealous of their right and tenacious of their privileges. They molest nobody with their religious views, and are unmolested in them; but a circumstance happened this summer which through the imprudent zeal of one of our own countrymen had well nigh produced the most serious consequences. He was a gentleman from New York, and had put up, on a traveling tour, at the Hotel des Pays Bas. He was well supplied both with tracts and money, and evidently believed in the mightiness of the dollar as a concomitant of the truth in producing conversion.—It is undoubtedly true here, as elsewhere, that the persecutions which the Jews have undergone, and the social exclusion with which they are treated even where they are tolerated, make them very anxious after money; and they look after guilders here with quite as great a desire as they do elsewhere. Our American gentleman, accompanied by a companion, accordingly entered one of the synagogues of Amsterdam on one of their days of worship and set about distributing his papers to the incoming congregation; and when they were, naturally enough, refused, money was offered as an inducement for them to take them. There is nothing, however, that a Jew considers more scandalous than the use of money in their temples, and the consequence of this conduct was that a row was soon created, and our American zealots barely escaped with whole bones. But the sequel was not here. On a Christian Sabbath following, while the congregation of one of the Christian churches of the city was engaged in worship, and at the actual moment when they were engaged in prayer, a young fanatical Jew, a son of one of the Rabbis, walked up to the pulpit, seized the minister by the back of the neck as he was bent over in the particular devotion, and with a dagger, inflicted upon him several blows before he could be arrested, which, however, have fortunately not proved mortal. The reason given by the young man for this act of violence was the attack made upon his his own religion in the manner just related. It is difficult to decide which was the more insane party of the two—the American or the Jew; but both exhibited the lengths to which fanaticism will lead both Jew and Gentile.
There is great wealth in Amsterdam, and it is prudently managed, The exact value of our American securities is as well known here as in the market of our own country. But as a general rule they are not liked. When they are bought it is only at a great discount, and then with something like the feeling which a man may be supposed to have who risks at gambling. The failure of the United States Bank produced here effects which are not easily forgotten. The capitalists, therefore, prefer their own stocks at a low rate of interest. Much of the debt of Holland bears no higher rate than two and a half and three per cent, and is all owned in the country.—Even the improvements of the country are carried on generally by English capital. Gas, telegraphs, water for the cities, railroads and the like are for the most part introduced through the instrumentality of English companies. The inventive genius of the world travels too fast for the Dutch capitalist. He is doubtful of these innovations and is willing that his British neighbors should take the profit with the risk, rather than engage in them himself. Thus the works by which Amsterdam is supplied with gas, water and news are owned in England, yielding a handsome return to the capitalists there, while the capitalists at home are realizing not more than half the amount in consequence of their excessive caution.
Although the Hague is the residence of the Court, and the place of meeting of the Chambers, Amsterdam is nevertheless called the capital of the kingdom. It has a palace, the most magnificent in the country, and once a year, in recognition of the right of the city as the capital, the king honors it with a visit, and is entertained for a period, not exceeding eight days, at its expense. During this period no limit is prescribed to his expenses, but if he stays longer, then they must be paid by himself. William I., grandfather of the present king, was a prudent, money-making man, who embarked in various commercial and monetary enterprises, and, imitating the calculating policy of the worthy burgomasters and councilmen of the city, always limited the duration of his visit to the eight days, and thus established it as a custom on the part of the king which is rarely departed from. The annual visit of the king was, this year, very considerately made contemporaneously with the birth day of the Prince of Orange, and consequently the rich burghers put themselves out to do the thing up handsomely. But before attempting to describe this fete, something may be said of the king and court as well here as at any other time.
It will be borne in mind that the Republic of the Netherlands, consisting of the same territory as the present government, and divided into the seven provinces of Holland, Zealand, Utrecht, Friesland, Overyssel , Groningwen and Guelderland, had, from the period of its independence in 1581, down to the Bonapartean regime, a stadholder, as he was styled, as its head. Bonaparte created it a kingdom, placing his brother, Louis Napoleon, father of the present Emperor of the French, over it as King. On his fall in 1813 the kingdom was continued by the allies, who restored the old family of Orange as sovereigns instead of stadholders, and added to the territory the provinces of Belgium, which, however, rebelled in 1830, and now constitutes a separate kingdom.
The royal dynasty of the Netherlands is known by the name of Orange—Nassau, distinguishing it from another ruling branch of the same stock called Weilburg—Nassau, whose dominions embrace the Duchy of Nassau, of which mention has been made in the letters from the Rhine. The term Orange is derived from a district of that name in Provence, which came into the possession of the house of Nassau by the marriage of the grandfather of the first stadholder with the sister of John of Orange. The term Nassau is similarly derived from another district within the limits of the present Duchy of Nassau lying on the river Lahu, where Gebhard, the first count of that name had his castle. Thus it will be observed that both the family and the name are neither of them the early Dutch, that is, Frisiau or Batavia.
The first stadholder was William, Prince of Orange, called the Silent, the father of the Republic.—His descendants ran out upon the death of William III., who married Mary of England, when the Stadholdership devolved upon a collateral branch of the family proceeding from John, a brother of William, the first stadholder. It continued in this branch until its abolition in the person of William V., the last stadholder, who resigned in consequence of the troubles consequent upon the French Revolution. His son was however called to the throne on the downfall of Bonaparte, under the title of William I., thus beginning a line of kings. The present King William III. is the grandson of this William I. It will be observed that there are two dynasties in the history of the Netherlands, commencing with the name of William, both of the same family, and all of their number princes of the house of Orange-Nassau. For nearly three centuries, with but slight interruptions, has this house been at the head of the government. The country achieved its independence under the prudent counsels and management of William the Taciturn. It acquired its highest renown and prosperity under his successors; it has always in every strait in which it has been placed after those revolutions occurring in its history when the stadholder has been displaced, fled back to the House of Orange for a Chief; and at Waterloo it maintained its ancient glory under the lead of the Prince of Orange, afterwards William II., father of the present king. The house of Orange is therefore inseparably connected with the national traditions. The mass of people have a superstitious belief in its superiority. Orange is their rallying word; and whatever the personal merits or demerits of the chief, his hold on their loyalty is perhaps without a parallel among the kingdoms of Europe. The patriotism and courage of the family they never doubt.
The present king, who is now in his forty-second year, has had no occasion of developing any military traits. On the other hand the constitution of the country as it was modified in 1848, gives the king little or no opportunity for the exhibition of the qualities of a civil ruler. He is forced to seek occupation and amusement as he may. While Prince of Orange and until within two or three years, falconry at his place at Loo where a society of gentlemen from England congregated together, afforded him diversion, but that is now abandoned. He pursues at one time one hobby and at another time another. He is rather averse to audiences and public displays. In stature he is "six feet high and well proportioned." He travels occasionally into the neighboring States, when he takes one of the minor titles of his family, that of Count Van Buren—a title which the house of Orange acquired by the marriage of the father of William the first stadholder with Anna Van Egmond and Buren. So that a Prince Van Buren is no figure of speech; and in fact the stadholder William III. was also a Prince John Van Buren. The King intermarried with the daughter of the King of Wertemberg, the present queen, a daughter of great accomplishments, fine manners, and of much personal grace and dignity. From this marriage has been born the present Prince of Orange, whose fete has just been celebrated, a young man of great promise.
There have been learned debates and academical discussions upon the question whether the Prince of Orange was of age at eighteen or not. By the constitution of the country he is eligible at that age to ascend the throne in case of a vacancy; but the rule of law is that a young man does not attain his majority until he becomes twenty-three, and cannot make a binding contract until that age. Heretofore no notice has been taken of the Prince of Orange's attaining eighteen, but as the world would stagnate if there were not new questions to agitate the waters, this one has been started, and, as might be expected, has practically received a decision in the affirmative. Dinners and balls and illuminations and displays, have been so many unanswerable points on that side of the question. It was a good excuse for an excitement; and thus while the laying of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable has put you all in an ecstacy, which the monarchists here do not understand, especially as the cable is altogether under the control of a European government of which you claim to be very independent, so the transpiring of an event so unimportant as the doubtful majority of a Crown Prince, has produced here a demonstration among the sober and calculating people of Holland, which is equally intelligible to Republicans. And indeed speaking dispassionately at the actual condition of both propositions, it does seem as if there had been a little too much tallow and powder expended on both sides. What perhaps added to the excitement here was that feeling which exists all the world over to forestal the favor of an incoming administration of power.—Different parties always struggle to get on the right side of the future King. It is the rising and not the setting sun which is worshipped in aristocracies as well as democracies, and the lively anticipation of favors to be bestowed always gives a powerful impulse to the public honors, which are made in behalf of those who have either decorations and positions at court, or simply fat jobs and appointments to office, to bestow in the future. It has been even said that the thing has been driven a little too far into the ground in the estimation of the King himself, who undoubtedly feels a great pride in his son, but who has declined some of the honors proposed, such as that as an escort of honor for the Prince from the Hague to Amsterdam by a body of gentlemen. Indeed there is such a thing as being too kind; and it is to be presumed that the King is no more in a hurry for his children to step into his shoes and shove him off his seat than any other man.
The Queen-dowager, mother of the King, is a sister of the late Czar of Russia. She maintains her court with much dignity, and is considered the extreme of the aristocracy. Her entertainments certainly are among the most pleasant which are given. Conversation, private theatricals and elegant suppers occupy at them the time which the royal soirees is taken up with dancing mostly. She is well informed on American matters and speaks enthusiastically of our railways and steamships.—She is the same person from whom, while Princess of Orange, jewels amounting to some half a million of dollars in value, were stolen by a Belgian, taken to America, and finally recovered through the instrumentality of Mr. Seely and others of New York. Brooklyn people will recollect that a large portion of these jewels were found buried in South Brooklyn, the thief having lodged a day or two at the hotel of Mr. Duflon, known as the Military Garden, opposite the City Hall. This was twenty-seven years ago. The then young Princess of Orange is now a fine old lady, who on such occasions as this at Amsterdam, throws all the other dames of the court into the shade by the magnificence of her toilette, resplendent as it always is with pearls and diamonds. The Uncle of the King, Prince Frederick, is one of the most amiable men whom I have met abroad. He is possessed of unbounded wealth, having large estates both in Holland and Silesia, and also numerous investments in the funds. Besides the balls which he gives in town, he makes hunting parties on his estates lying between the Hague and Leiden, where the game is almost too abundant for sport. He married a daughter of the late King of Prussia. Another member of the Royal family is Prince Henry, the brother of the King, who is also Governor of Luxenburg, which is an appanage of the crown of the Netherlands. He has been in America, and speaks in high terms of admiration of New York. He married a daughter of Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar, who travelled in our country, and published an account of his journey some thirty years ago or more. The Duke resides at the Hague, an agreeable old gentleman.—The persons thus mentioned, together with the ladies of honor, the chamberlains, masters of ceremonies, ministers of the State, members of the diplomatic corps and their families, and a few others, comprising between two and three hundred persons, form the body of that circle known as the Court. There is a good deal of old fashioned ceremony about it. The reigning family are no parvenus, and as already observed, going back almost three hundred years, they throw most of the sovereigns of the present day far behind them in point of family. The people have always been fond of show and pomp. The court of the Stadholder in the days of the republic was even more stiff and ceremonious than it is now. In order to maintain it they allow the King a salary of four hundred thousand dollars a year, and give the Prince of Orange forty thousand dollars a year on his attaining eighteen years of age, and double it when he gets married. There are some who like the endless round of dinners and parties and fetes, and for them the Hague is a pleasant Court. It has, however, other attractions more desirable to me. This was the Court which was assembled at Amsterdam in favor of the King's visit and the majority of the Prince of Orange.
The city was gaily decked for four days during which it lasted. The national banner, which is a tricolor of red, white and blue—the stripes being placed lengthwise with the staff, was suspended from the upper windows of all the houses in the principal streets. Where they had no flags the shopkeepers displayed their gaudiest store stuffs, and in some lanes bunting was hung out in the shape of skirts, but whether to dry or to honor the occasion, I will not undertake to say. And it may be remarked here, bythe way, that there is never any thing grand in this country but what there is a funny side to it somewhere. There is a thick substratum of broad humor in the people, and in cases where that does not have vent, the natural simplicity of the less cultivated classes is sure to manifest itself in some amusing exhibition. A red flannel petticoat would serve as well at a bull bait as a red flag, and why not at a civic decoration? The principal retail business street of Amsterdam is Kalver straat , which might be called its Broadway, only that it is so narrow that two carriages just manage to pass each other,—and it was thus hung with banners, and in addition every house was covered on the lower story with evergreens, dotted with dahlias and other bright flowers, while crowns and other devices were displayed upon particular houses. As you passed through this street it seemed as if it were an avenue through some city of fairy land, instead of the old Dutch city of Amsterdam. The sky above was shut out by the flags, and the brick and stone fronts of the houses on either side were stuccoed as it were with evergreens and flowers. On the first night the grand illumination took place, the lights being for the most part disposed in colored glasses and Chinese lanterns. But a casual glance showed you that most of the frames had not been brought out for the first time. They had probably served the same purpose, some of them, twenty or thirty years ago. The principal canals were festooned with burning lights, producing a fine effect upon the water. Little barges decorated with lights and filled with lively parties danced over the waters. But in the smaller streets, as usual, were the ridiculous sights. Illuminated figures of ladies, in prodigious crinoline, and various other burlesque forms were lowered up and down by means of a tackle fixed to a pole running across the street from the top of one house to another, exciting shouts of laughter among the spectators. The crowd in the streets was immense. The whole country had poured into Amsterdam, making a perfect jam of men and women, in all the varied costumes of the land. On they went, generally in coupanies of a dozen or more, skipping and singing, forcing themselves through the crowds in the greatest good humor, boisterous and noisy it is true, but not quarrelsome. They had come for a good time, and meant to let everybody else have the same. They jostled against each other without complaining. There was no police. The ordinary police stand aside on these occasions; and the people have an entire license,—a license which they do not abuse. In our country such an occasion would require the presence of the police more than any other, but here it is not permitted or required. One reason of this absence of rowdyism is undoubtedly the presence of the women. Fully one half of the people in the streets were of that sex, and each one had her beau or husband with her. They were as boisterous as the men, and went capering along with them all night. There was no place for many of them to sleep. They had come in from the country for an all night sport; and among the last tunes which I heard before I got asleep, which was near four o'clock in the morning, was the old familiar one which the merrymakers were singing under my window, of "We won't go home till morning"
Public amusements were provided by the city.—The square called the Butter-market, where ordinarily the sellers of old books have their stalls,—was devoted to this purpose. Of the various amusing scenes going on here during the day the most diverting was that of mast-climbing. Poles sixty or seventy feet high were erected and made as slippery as possible with grease and softsoap so as to render them difficult to climb. On the top of these poles was suspended a hoop around which were hung different articles as prizes, such as watches, coats, boxes of segars and the like, any one of which the successful climber was at liberty to remove and take to himself. There were at least thirty thousand people looking upon this scene. Not only was the square full but the windows and platforms of all the surrounding houses and the streets which opened into the square were crowded. I like to see the people thus congregated, as it affords a good opportunity to observe the national character. Some traits of it were shown on the present occasion. When a climber succeeded without much effort the crowd was listless. When one failed and slid down they showed their displeasure not by laughing and ridicule but by reproaches and groans. One youngster greatly excited them. He was not more than fifteen or sixteen years of age, and he made an effort for the last and only prise remaining. His strength however gave out when about two-thirds of the way up, but he did not, like the unsuccessful ones before him, slide down again and give it up. He held on tight to where he was for ten minutes or more in order to rest himself, and then started again. He made several halts of this kind before he got to the top, but when he reached it he could not disengage the prize and halting again he slid down several feet of the pole in spite of himself. The crowd had watched him patiently for half an hour and now began to show great anxiety for his success. The men speculated about it; the women looked anxiously for the boy. Upward he went again, but still he could not get the prize. The pluck and determination of the boy, however, pleasured the multitude. It was an example of perseverance and patience,—such as is stamped upon the face of the country itself. Finally he accomplished his object, he waved the prize over his head and descended amid as loud and enthusiastic a shout as ever greeted an Olympic victor. He evidently had in the estimation of the throng, vindicated the character of the country.
The entertainments of the court consisted of a grand dinner on the first day, of free theatricals on the third (the second day was Sunday) and a ball in the evening of the fourth day of the fete. The dinner and ball took place in the great hall of the palace.—Upon this room Amsterdam lavished her wealth two hundred years ago. The building was originally the Stadhaus or City Hall. The ceiling of this room is one hundred feet high. The walls are of fine marble. Over the main entrance in the middle of the wall is a niche in which there is a large figure of Atlas supporting an enormous globe—twenty feet in diameter—on his shoulders. Around the room, drooping on their ancient staves, hang the trophies won from the Spaniards during their war of independence, and from the English in the palmy days of the Republic, and the tattered banner which waved over the Citadel of Antwerp in the Belgian revolution. It was calculated to awaken home thoughts in the mind of an American, as his eye caught these relics of the history of the people, and the magnificence of the burghers of the olden time, while the viands and the wines of modern luxury were spread before him, and the band played the choicest morceaux of Italian opera. Proud as the people of Amsterdam may be of their palace and its trophies, I could not but think how much reason they had to be proud that their ancestors had coeval with it, laid the foundations of a city in the Western World which has already double the population of the mother emporium, and which in position and beauty of construction, in intelligence and in prospects yields to no city in all Europe; and how great a trophy for them it was to have first discovered the commercial advantages of New Amsterdam.
I should not forget to add before concluding this letter that our distinguished countryman and historian of the Dutch Republic, Mr. Motley, attended the ball, honoring it and being honored by the most flattering attentions of the Assembly. M.
[begin surface 794]of an ancient ruined temple. In Bavaria, at Gailenruth, is a remarkable cavern, with several chambers, containing the bones of antediluvian animals. At Heidelberg, in Baden, is a remarkable wine-cask, said to contain 800 hogsheads. At Stutgard , in Wirtemberg, in the Royal Library, is the most extensive collection of Bibles in the world, comprising over 8000 copies, in sixty-eight different languages. At Leipsic, in Saxony, there is an annual fair, which is doubtless the greatest in the world. The number of books offered for sale is immense. Near Eisenach, in Saxe-Weimar, is the castle of Warzburg, where Luther was concealed by his friends, when put under the ban of the empire. Carlsruhe, the capital of Baden, is remarkable for having its principal streets radiating from the ducal palace, like the sticks of an open fan. The eminences along the banks of the Rhine present a great number of ruins of ancient baronial castles, among which is the Crag of Drachenfels, celebrated by Byron. The museums of Germany abound in relics of past ages.
8. History.—Germany was early the seat of numerous fierce and warlike tribes, some of which were subjugated by the Romans, while others baffled the armies of that great people. From this prolific magazine were drawn a considerable portion of the various tribes which overran France and the south of Europe, in the fifth century. Charlemagne became the master of the greater part of the country about the year 800, and founded the German empire. This was governed by a sovereign, called emperor, who was elected by the different states. To become emperor has been, at various periods, the object of ambition to the leading sovereigns of Europe. Among the more distinguished emperors were Frederic Barbarossa, who perished by drowning, in Asia, while leading the third crusade, A. D. 1190; Frederic II., who came to the throne in 1212, and is distinguished for the romantic events of his reign; Rodolph of Hapsburg, the crafty founder of the Austrian power, crowned 1273; Maximilian I., celebrated for his exploits by the ancient minstrels, and who died in 1519; and Charles V. of Spain, his grandson and successor, in 1519. From the time of Albert V. of Austria, in 1438, down to the dissolution of the empire, which took place in 1806, most of the emperors of Germany were also emperors of Austria. The Confederation of the Rhine, established by Napoleon in 1806, overturned the German empire. This was superseded in 1815 by the Germanic Confederation, established by the Congress of Vienna. This was composed of all the German states, according to the preceding table, who formed an alliance to maintain the peace and order of the respective states. The government of the Confederation consisted of a Diet, or Congress, which met at Frankfort-on-the-Maine. The whole number of deputies amounted to seventy. The representative of the Emperor of Austria presided. Only the German portions of Austria and Prussia belonged to the Confederation. The individual states had their own local governments and laws, and only affairs of general interest were under the charge of the Diet. In 1848, the French Revolution spread the spirit of revolt into Germany, causing many of the sovereigns to grant charters to their people, or to fly before popular insurrection. The Germanic Confederation was broken up, but, after a time, most of the monarchies were restored to their former position, and a general Confederation has been partially established.
9. The Free Cities.—The four free cities named in the preceding list, Hamburg, Frankfort, Bremen, and Lubec, are a portion of the Hanseatic League, formed about the middle of the thirteenth century, for the purpose of resisting the numerous pirates that crippled the rich commerce of Germany. At one period, the League comprised eighty-five towns, and was able to send a combined fleet in a war against Denmark, comprising 248 vessels. When the dangers of trading by sea and land diminished, the League declined. The last assembly was held in 1630. The four free cities alluded to have their independent governments.
8. History? Origin of Germany? Mention the principal sovereigns. Revolution of 1848? 9. The free cities? Their origin?
291. Characteristics.—Switzerland is remarkable for its sublime mountains, its beautiful lakes, and romantic scenery.
2. Mountains, &c.—The Alps, the most remarkable mountains in Europe, both in extent and elevation, cover all the central and southern parts of this country. The higher peaks are covered with perpetual snow, and present, in their magnificent glaciers, the innumerable cascades which are precipitated from their summits, and the forests and meadows which cover their flanks, the most imposing and picturesque scenery in Europe. Mont Blanc, the most lofty point of the Alps, reaches an elevation of 15,810 feet. The chief lakes of Switzerland are those of Geneva, Lucerne, Constance, and Zurich; these are remarkable for their extent, and for the depth and purity of their waters. The rivers Rhine, Rhone, and Ticino, have their sources in Switzerland. Among the wild animals are the ibex and the chamois, and, in the unfrequented tracts, bears, lynxes, and wolves. The lammergeyer, the largest native bird of Europe, is found in the mountains.
3. Climate, Products, &c.—The climate may be said to be cold on the Alps, temperate in the plains, and hot during summer in some of the valleys. The principal wealth of the people consists in their excellent pastures and fine breeds of cattle. Cotton goods, silks, watches, jewelry, and straw-plait are the principal manufactures.
4. Political Constituents, etc.—The Confederation is composed of twenty-five cantons, forming 22 states:
A table listing the cantons of Switzerland with their areas, populations, populations to square mile, and chief towns.5. Government, &c.—Switzerland is a federative state of twenty-two republics, which conduct their domestic concerns wholly independently of each other. They are all united, however, by a federal government called the Diet. Zurich, Berne, and Lucerne are alternately the capital, each for the space of two years. The army consists of 67,516 men, of which half are a reserve. The public revenue is about $5,000,000. There is little or no public debt. About half the population are Protestants. The A map of Switzerland. The Swiss Confederacy begun, 1308. Extent, 15,284 square miles. Rousseau born at Geneva, 1712. Population, 2,390,116. Pop. to sq. mile, 156.3. people are brave, honest, simple, and economical. They speak different languages in different parts of the country—French, German, and a corrupt Italian dialect.
6. Chief Towns.—Geneva is the principal city of Switzerland. Its situation is very picturesque, and the adjacent country abounds in magnificent views. It is famous as having been the center and asylum of the reformed religion. It possesses a public library of 80,000 volumes. Its university has long been distinguished as a seat of learning. Zurich is noted for its public institutions, and clean streets, and Basle for its manufacture of ribbons. Berne, the political capital, is one of the handsomest cities in Europe.
7. History.—This country was called Helvetia by the Romans, and was inhabited by the Helvetii, a Celtic tribe. After the conquest of Gaul, the Romans sent colonies into Helvetia, to introduce the arts of civilization. Several centuries after, the Huns swept through the valleys of the Alps, and the Roman improvements disappeared. In the middle of the sixth century, the country was conquered by the Franks, and became a portion of their empire. The feudal system prevailed largely there, and, for a long time, the Swiss submitted to the sway of foreign princes. At length, incensed by the oppressions of Albert of Austria, the son of Rodolph of Hapsburg, the three cantons of Schweitz, Uri, and Unterwalden rose in rebellion. They were led by William Tell, the "Hero of Switzerland," and in the year 1307 achieved their independence. During the next three centuries, they received accessions of territory by the admission of other cantons. The country was obliged to submit to French dictation at the period of the revolution; but at the downfall of Napoleon it again became independent. The Congress of Vienna proclaimed its perpetual neutrality in 1815. The French revolutions of 1830 and 1848 caused insurrection and turmoil. These, however, were transient, and Switzerland is now quiet.
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Switzerland? Extent? Population? Population to the square mile? What range of mountains on the southern boundary? Name the principal rivers and lakes. Where is Friburg? Geneva? Berne?
LESSON CVI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains, &c.? 3. Climate, products, &c.? 4. Political divisions? 5. Government, &c.? 6. Chief towns? 7. History? What of William Tell? Present state of Switzerland?
1. Characteristics.—The Kingdom of Belgium may be noted as being the most thickly settled country in Europe, and as having been the scene of numerous celebrated battles within the last 300 years.
2. Face of the Country, &c.—The coasts are flat, requiring dikes to protect them from the sea. The center is undulating; the south mountainous—being crossed by the Ardennes Mountains. The chief rivers are the Meuse and Scheldt. The climate is cool and humid; the soil generally fertile, especially in Flanders. The mountains are covered with thick forests, and having rich mines of iron, coal, copper, zinc, &c.
3. Industry, &c.—Twice as much grain is raised as is needed for home consumption. Flanders is especially famous for its agriculture. The country resembles England—being fenced by hedges. Horned cattle are numerous; colts are exported; and immense numbers of hogs are raised in the forests. Horticulture is an important branch of industry. The mining operations, especially in iron and coal, are very extensive. The fisheries in the open sea, and along the coast, are productive. The manufactures, however, are the chief source of wealth. Four hundred thousand persons are employed in spinning and weaving. The products of the manufactures embrace woolen cloths, cottons, stockings, &c. Eleven million yards of linen fabrics are made annually. Silks, laces, embroideries, ribbons, hats, leather, &c., are extensively manufactured. Much of the fine paper imported into this country comes from Belgium. The iron-forges at Liege and the vicinity are on a vast scale. Steam-engines, firearms, &c., are made there. Thirteen thousand persons are employed in making nails. The commerce is considerable: many of the articles imported pass through into Germany.
4. Railroads, &c.—The railroads centering at Mechlin, radiate in all directions, forming a complete system, the only one in Europe. The whole country is intersected by canals, many of which admit merchant vessels. The main roads are excellent.
5. Government, &c.—This is a constitutional monarchy, with a senate and house of representatives elected by the people. The punishment of death has been abolished. Religious toleration, freedom of the press, and trial by jury are established. The population are mainly Roman Catholics. The clergy of all sects are supported by the state. Each province has a local government. There are universities at Ghent, Liege, Louvain, and Brussels. Inferior seminaries are numerous, but a large part of the people are uneducated. The public revenue is $20,000,000; the debt $180,000,000. The army consists of 90,000 men; the navy is small.
6. Chief Towns.—Brussels, the capital, on the little river Senne, is a beautiful city, and many English people choose it as a residence. The public buildings, parks, squares, promenades, and fountains, present a fine appearance. Ten miles south of this, on the border of the forest of Soigny, is the village of Waterloo, where Napoleon was fatally defeated by the allied army under Wellington and Blucher, in September, 1815. Antwerp, on the Scheldt, is noted for its fine Gothic cathedral, with a beautiful spire, 441 feet high. It has several of the master-pieces of the painter Rubens, who lived a great part of his life in this city. Ghent has one of the largest citadels in Europe. Liege, on the Meuse, is noted for its manufactures.
7. Political Divisions.—These are as follows:
A table listing the provinces of Belgium with their areas, populations, populations per square mile, and capitals.8. Inhabitants.—The Belgians are in part Flemings, of German origin, and in part Walloons, descendants of the ancient Belgæ. The latter live along the borders of France, and resemble the people of that country. The language of the higher classes is French. The lower classes generally speak Flemish, which is a dialect of the low German. The Walloons speak a kind of French patois. The manners of the country are a compound of those of France and Holland. The people are distinguished for honesty and independence, with a mixture of gayety, politeness, and love of show. The Catholics are very strict in their religious observances. The middle and lower classes spend the afternoons and evenings of Sundays in tea-gardens and ball-rooms. Beer-drinking is carried to a great extent. Music is cultivated with enthusiasm. Chimes of bells are so numerous, that in the larger towns they are almost constantly to be heard. A good bell-ringer is sure of a high salary.
9. History.—When Cæsar invaded Gaul, the provinces of East and West Flanders and Antwerp were partially overflowed by the ocean. The soil was so marshy that an inundation or a tempest overturned whole forests, which are still found embedded in the soil. The sea and rivers had no defined limits, and the earth no solidity. Many of the inhabitants of this low plain lived in huts upon the mounds of sand, or elevated above the reach of the tides, on stakes. The southern and southwestern portions, forming the present Walloon country, were covered with immense forests, inhabited by numerous tribes, who lived by hunting and rude agriculture. They had cities inclosed by high stone walls, with fortified gates of great strength. The armies contained troops of cavalry; the country produced supplies of corn and abundance of cattle. The tribes combined against Cæsar, levying 120,000 fighting men. In one battle, near Namur, he reduced an army of 60,000 to 500. After capturing the town of Tongres, he sold 53,000 of the inhabitants for slaves. The highland country just described being subjugated by the Romans, was included in Belgic Gaul, and the people became amalgamated with the Romans, adopting their manners and language. The Belgic soldiers became celebrated for their strength and courage; and Cæsar's victory of Pharsalia was decided by the Belgic cavalry and light-infantry. The lowland people, on the contrary, continued faithful to their ancient manners and customs, pursuing commerce, and assimilating with the inhabitants of Holland. In the fifth century, the Belgic population was a good deal changed by
Exercises on the Map (see p. 220.)—Boundaries of Belgium? Capital? What is its principal seaport? Where is Waterloo? Antwerp? Ypres? Ostend? Direction of the principal towns from Brussels?
LESSON CVII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Face of the country, &c.? 3. Industry, &c.? 4. Railroads, &c.? 5. Government &c.? 6. Chief towns? 7. Political divisions? 8. Inhabitants? 9. History?
[begin surface 798]the Frankish emigration. Christianity was soon introduced and monasteries founded in the elevated country. The maritime lowlanders, now blended with Saxons and Frisons—the latter known as Flemings, and giving name to their country—prospered in agriculture and commerce. In the ninth century, Flanders was covered with corporate towns, united for defense and social assistance. Soon after, the country suffered greatly from the piratical irruptions of the Northmen. For several subsequent centuries, the country was divided into provinces belonging to different families. In the fifteenth century, they all came under the Duke of Burgundy. At this time the idea of a Belgic nation seems to have been established. The cloth manufactures which had originated here two centuries before were so extensive, that Ypres had 4000 looms, and Ghent 50,000 weavers. Bruges and Antwerp were the great commercial marts of Europe—each containing 200,000 inhabitants. The wealthy were clad in gorgeous velvets, satins, and jewelry; and the banquets almost rivaled the voluptuous feasts of the Roman emperors. This luxury produced such depravity, that in one year, 1400 murders were committed in the gambling-houses of Ghent. In 1477, Belgium passed under the dynasty of Austria; and in 1519, descended to Charles V., king of Spain and emperor of Germany. The wealth of the people at this period appears to have been immense. A fatal change came over the country through the oppressions and persecutions of Charles's son and successor, Philip II. Commerce and trade dwindled away; many of the merchants were reduced to beg for bread, great cities became half deserted, and the scattered inhabitants of villages were devoured by wolves. Thousands of the artisans fled from ruin and death to England, where they carried and established their manufacturing arts. Belgium remained under the Spanish dominion till the famous victory of Ramilies, gained by the Duke of Marlborough in 1706, when it again passed to Austria. It had been connected with Holland from the time of the Duke of Burgundy, but it was now separate; while Holland, having attained its independence, continued to flourish as a republic. The Belgian provinces remained under Austria till they were conquered by the French, after two celebrated victories at Jemappes and Fleurus. It was annexed to the French Republic in 1795. In 1815, it was made a part of Holland by the Congress of Vienna. In 1830, incited by the Revolution of Paris, the people rebelled, and, after a brief struggle, achieved their independence—Leopold, their present sovereign, becoming king.
1. Characteristics.—Holland, or the Netherlands, composed of the ancient republic of the Seven United Provinces, with part of the Duchy of Limberg, is noted for its numerous canals and its dikes for keeping out the sea.
2. Face of the Country, &c.—Holland is generally level. Seventy-eight miles of the coast are protected by natural downs or sand-banks thrown up by the sea, and fixed by plantations of sea-grass. On the other parts of the coast, especially in Zealand, Friesland, and Gelderland, the sea is kept out by enormous artificial dikes. The principal rivers are the Maeze, Scheldt, and Rhine. The latter, on entering Holland, divides into two branches, and in its course to the German Ocean, is again several times divided. The principal gulfs are the Zuyder Zee , Lauwer Zee , and the Dollart. The marshes are numerous, and some are extensive. There are several islands in the estuary of the Scheldt and Meuse and at the entrance of the Zuyder Zee . The most noted are Walcheren and Texel. The climate of Holland is moist, and mild for the latitude. Snows are not abundant. The canals at the north and Zuyder Zee are frozen over three months in the year. The soil is argillaceous, without minerals, except bog-iron. The southern provinces are the most fertile.
3. Industry, &c.—Grains, flax, tobacco, and garden vegetables are extensively cultivated. Horticulture is skillfully conducted, and tulips and other flowering roots receive great attention. Rabbits abound, as well as water-fowl, and reptiles in the marshes. Storks are common, building on the houses, and being almost reverenced by the inhabitants. Fish are numerous along the coasts. Cattle and horses are excellent. Butter and cheese form articles of extensive commerce. Fisheries, including the whale fishery, are an important source of revenue. The manufacturing industry is active, producing linen, velvets, paper, woolens, silks, leather, cotton, gin or Geneva, &c. The country is swept by high winds, which has led to the general use of windmills for
View in Holland.motive power. The surface presents an immense net-work of canals; one of them 50 miles long, 125 feet wide, and 21 feet deep. The roads, always formed on the dikes and bordered by canals, are excellent. There are several important railroads.
4. Inhabitants.—The Hollanders, or Dutch, occupy the country of the ancient Frisi and Batavi. The majority are Protestants, most of whom belong to the Reformed Dutch Church. There are many Roman Catholics and Jews. The people are distinguished for frugality, neatness, and industry. They are of a cold temperament, but when roused, have as much ardor as any people. They are grave and heavy in appearance, and are of a domestic and quiet disposition. They prefer gain to glory; but are still honest in their dealings. They are slow in their movements; and " Dutch speed" is an ironical proverb. Dancing is a common amusement. Skating is followed by both sexes in winter. The language of the country is a German dialect, called Low Dutch.
5. Government, &c.—This is a constitutional monarchy,
Exercises on the Map (p. 220). Boundaries of Holland? Capital? Describe the Zuyder Zee . Where is Amsterdam? Rotterdam? Helder? Where is the Hague? The Island of Texel?
LESSON CVIII. 1. Characteristics? 2. Face of the country?
[begin surface 799]the king residing at the Hague. The standing army is fourteen regiments, two squadrons of cavalry, and three battalions of artillery. The navy consists of 105 vessels. The public revenue is $30,000,000; the debt, $500,000,000. The colonies of Java, Sumatra, Borneo, Celebes, Moluccas, and other Asiatic islands, with Surinam and Curaçoa in America, and settlements on the Guinea coast in Africa, comprise a territory of 760,000 square miles, and 27,000,000 of people. Education is well conducted and generally diffused. There are three respectable universities.
6. Political Divisions.—These are as follows :—
A table listing the provinces of Holland with their areas in square miles, populations, populations per square mile, and capitals.7. Towns.—Amsterdam, once the greatest commercial city in Europe, and still a large and important place, is celebrated for its wealth, its state-house, built on thirteen thousand piles, and its canals, separating it into nearly a hundred islands. Rotterdam, on the Meuse, is next to Amsterdam in commercial importance. The Hague, the capital of Holland, is renowned for its beauty. Haarlem is famed for its stupendous organ of eight thousand pipes.
8. History.—In the time of the Romans, Holland was inhabited chiefly by the Batavi and Frisii, the former of whom, after the conquest of Belgium by Julius Cæsar, concluded an alliance with the Romans. This was afterward silently changed into subjection to Rome. In the reign of Vitellius, the Batavians endeavored unsuccessfully to throw off the Roman yoke. In the second century their country was overrun by the Saxons; in the eighth it was conquered by Charles Martel; and it subsequently formed a part of the dominion of Charlemagne. From the tenth to the fourteenth century, the Netherlands were divided into many petty sovereignties, under the Dukes of Brabant, the Counts of Holland and Flanders, &c. In 1388, however, by marriages and otherwise, the whole, with the Belgian provinces, passed into the hands of the Duke of Burgundy; thence to the House of Austria; and finally, in 1548, under the rule of the Emperor Charles V., king of Spain. The union with the latter country was a most unfortunate event for Holland. The Dutch had long been in the enjoyment of many political rights and privileges. They had extensive fisheries and trade; and they had for the most part embraced the doctrines of the early reformers. Philip II., who regarded the privileges enjoyed by the Dutch as usurpations on his own prerogative, and who detested the reformed faith, resolved to recover the former, and to suppress or extirpate the latter. To accomplish this purpose, he sent, in 1567, Ferdinand de Toledo, Duke of Alva, with a powerful army into the Low Countries. But the proscriptions and massacres with which this sanguinary though able soldier filled the country, failed of their object. The Dutch, instead of being subdued, were driven into open rebellion. The malcontents captured the Briel in 1572, and after a struggle unequaled for duration, for the sacrifices it imposed on the weaker party, and for the importance of its results, the independence of the republic—styled the Seven Provinces—was acknowledged by Spain in 1609. Except that it was occasionally darkened by internal feuds, the half century that succeeded this event is the brightest in the Dutch annals. The commerce of Holland attained to an unrivaled magnitude; and while she extended her colonies and conquests over some of the most valuable provinces in the East and West Indies, she successfully resisted the attacks of Louis XIV., contended with England for the empire of the sea, and was justly regarded as one of the bulwarks of the Protestant faith. From the death of Louis XIV. down to the French revolution, the influence of Holland gradually declined, not so much from any decay of her own resources, as from the growth of commerce and manufactures in other states, especially in England. The policy of Holland had long been peaceful; but that could not protect her from being overrun by revolutionary France. In 1806, she was erected into a kingdom for Louis, a brother of Napoleon; and on the downfall of the latter, she was united with Belgium, and formed into a kingdom under the family of Orange, the founders of her liberties. But the union was never cordial. The Dutch and Belgians are, in fact, dissimilar in their religion, character, and pursuits; and the connection between them was dissolved by the revolt of the Belgians soon after the French revolution of 1830. Holland has now nearly the same limits as before her occupation by the French in 1795. In 1840, the king, William I., abdicated the throne in favor of his eldest son, William II., who is still on the throne.
1. Characteristics.—Denmark is a small kingdom, lying at the entrance of the Baltic, and comprising the peninsula of Jutland, with some contiguous islands, and the duchies of Schleswig, Holstein, and Lauenburg.
2. Face of the Country, &c.—The coasts are greatly indented, and the country is perfectly flat—some parts being below the level of the sea, and defended by dikes. To the east, it rises gradually, the highest point being 500 feet. The Elbe makes the southern boundary. The river Eider, in connection with a canal, forms the boundary between Holstein and Schleswig, and opens a communication between the Baltic and the German Ocean. The climate is humid and cloudy, though mild for its latitude. The soil is alluvial, and excellent for pasturage. Marshes occupy one-third of the surface of the peninsula.
3. Islands, &c.—Seeland, or Zealand, is the largest and the most important of the Danish islands—its extent being 2675 square miles. Copenhagen is on the east side. Funen contains 1123 square miles. Laland , or Lolland, one of the most fertile of the Danish islands, contains 462 square miles. The peninsula of Jutland, including the duchies, is about 350 miles long.
4. Industry.—Agriculture has been greatly improved of late. The grains are extensively cultivated. Cattle and horses are reared on a great scale. Game and fish are abundant. The mineral products are insignificant. There being no coal and no water-power, the manufactures are
3. Industry, &c.? 4. Inhabitants? 5. Government? 6. Political divisions? 7. Towns? 8. History?
Exercises on the Map (see p. 220).—Boundaries of Denmark? Capital? What sea to the east? To the west? Where is the island of Funen? Laland?
LESSON CIX. 1. Characteristics? 2. Face of the country,
[begin surface 800]inconsiderable. There are important lines of railroads, besides many extensive canals. The commerce has lately improved, and is now considerable.
5. Government, &c.—The Danish government, exclusive of the Duchy of Lauenburg, was an absolute monarchy till 1834, when a national representation was established. As duke of Holstein and Lauenburg, the king is a member of the Germanic Confederation, with three full votes in the Diet. The population is divided into three classes—nobles, citizens, and peasants. The state religion is Lutheran, and the king is head of the church; but all sects are tolerated. The University of Copenhagen has a high rank; elementary education is widely diffused. The military force is about 25,000 men. The navy comprises thirty vessels. The colonies of Denmark are important. Among them are Iceland and Greenland, described under America; the Faroe Islands, northwest of the Orkneys, twenty-two in number, and seventeen inhabited; several small islands in the West Indies; with establishments upon the coast of Guinea and Hindostan.
6. Political Divisions, Towns, etc.—These are as follows:
A table listing the countries of Denmark with their areas in square miles, populations, and chief towns.Copenhagen, the metropolis, and the residence of the court, has an extensive commerce, and is one of the finest cities in the northern part of Europe. Elsinore, situated at a narrow passage of the sea, is known as the place where all ships which trade to the Baltic are obliged to pay a heavy toll. The money received here pays a large portion of the expenses of the Danish government.
7. History.—Denmark, Norway, and Sweden were anciently called Scandinavia, and were the nurseries of many of those fierce barbarians who either conquered or harassed the British islands and the coasts of France and
Swedish Peasants.Spain for several centuries. From this quarter came the Saxons, Angles, Jutes, and other German tribes, who established the Saxon dominion in England. A century before the Christian era, the inhabitants of the peninsula of Jutland were known to the Romans by the name of the Cimbri. Under leaders called sea-kings, they made piratical expeditions against the more southern countries of Europe, robbing and plundering without mercy. In the Middle Ages, these people, with the Swedes and Norwegians, were called Normans, or Northmen. They conquered Normandy, in France, peopled the Faroe Islands, the Orkneys, Shetland, and Iceland, and carried their arms into the south of Europe. Canute, king of Denmark, conquered, in the eleventh century, the whole of Norway, and nearly all England and Scotland. The religion of the Scandinavians was a wild mythology—the chief deity being called Odin, or Woden. He seems to have been worshiped as the god of war, and thus their religion inspired the people with a love of warlike achievements. The Scandinavian or old Norse literature belongs to that early period when the Northmen were still idolaters. It consists, to a considerable extent, of sagas, or songs, which celebrate the deeds of their gods and heroes. The ancient alphabet of Scandinavia is called Runic—that is " hidden;" because the priests, who used it in writing, held it as a mystery. It consisted of sixteen letters, and is supposed to have been derived from the Phœnicians. Under Canute, Christianity was introduced into Denmark, and the progress of civilization began. But the most brilliant era was the reign of Margaret, surnamed the Northern Semiramis, who effected the Union of Calmar, which placed on her head the crown of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, in the fourteenth century. Sweden, however, shook off the Danish yoke in the sixteenth century; but Norway was retained till 1815, when it was ceded to Sweden, under the dictation of the Congress of Vienna. The Duchies of Holstein, Schleswig, and Lauenburg became dependencies of Denmark in 1459. The former of these was a primitive seat of the Saxons. In 1848 Holstein and Schleswig revolted, and a bloody war ensued, but was terminated in favor of the king.
&c.? 3. Islands, &c.? 4. Industry? 5. Government, &c.? 6. Political Divisions, &c.? 7. History? What of the Northmen?
1. Characteristics.—Sweden, Norway, and Lapland are cold, rugged countries, thinly inhabited.
2. Sweden.—Although bounded on the west and north by mountains, Sweden is a level country, with numerous lakes and rivers. It is generally barren; the southern parts are the most fertile. A great part of the country is covered with pine forests, and is unfit for cultivation. From these forests the people obtain timber, pitch, tar, and turpentine, for exportation. Sweden has also valuable mines of iron and copper. Large amounts of the former are exported to the U. States. Liberal views prevail, in respect to education. Sweden is divided into three general divisions—Gothland, Sweden Proper, and Norrland. In religion, the people are Lutheran. The government is a limited monarchy, and is mildly administered. Stockholm, the capital, is built upon hills, between seven small rocky islands and two peninsulas. Its situation is very romantic. The palace of the king is one of the most beautiful in Europe. Gottenburg has an extensive trade. The Swedes are described
Stockholm, the Capital of Sweden.as possessing light flaxen hair, and a ruddy countenance, with faces expressive of good humor. It is their custom to celebrate, with dancing and other ceremonies, the first of May, in token of their joy at the return of spring. They are remarkably neat and clean in their habits. History.—The first inhabitants of Sweden, which, with Norway, was then called Scandinavia, appear to have been Finns, who
A map of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. Extent of Norway, 123,233 square miles.—Population, 1,461,318. Extent of Sweden, 170,101 square miles.—Population, 3,648,189. Population of Stockholm, 88,242. Extent of Denmark, 21,909 square miles.—Population, 2,296,606.were expelled, at an early period, by a tribe of the Teutones . It long remained in the darkness of paganism. Various forms of government existed there at different periods. It remained independent till subjugated by Margaret of Denmark, and by her united to that country, by an act called the "Union of Calmar," in 1397. The Swedes, however, revolted in 1520, under Gustavus Vasa, and the Danes were expelled from the country. Gustavus Adolphus, about a century later, distinguished himself in his campaigns in defense of the Reformed religion. Charles XII., who came to the throne in 1697, was one of the most renowned warriors of the age. In 1814, Norway was united to Sweden, and still continues so. Of late years, the kingdom has been uniformly advancing in prosperity.
3. Norway was attached to Denmark from 1380 to 1814. At this date, it became a part of the Swedish dominions, but it has a government and laws of its own, which regulate its internal affairs. It is the most mountainous
Exercises on the Map.—Boundaries of Sweden? Extent? Population? Capital? What sea and gulf to the east? Boundaries of Norway? Extent? Population? Capital? Where is Hammerfest? Bergen? The Loffoden Isles? Where is Lapland?
LESSON CX. 1. Characteristics? 2. Sweden? What of Stockholm? Gottenburg? 3. Norway? 4. Lapland?
[begin surface 802]country in Europe, except Switzerland. Some of the Dofrafield mountains are covered with perpetual snow. The soil is, in general, barren and unsusceptible of cultivation, and the country has a dreary aspect. The climate is subject to great extremes. In winter, the cold is excessive; in summer, the heat is intense. On the sea-coast, it is much milder. The chief resources of the people are in their fisheries, their mines of iron, copper, and silver, and in their herds of cattle. The country abounds in rivers, which rush from the mountains with the rapidity of torrents. Near the coast, in the North Sea, is a terrific whirlpool, called the Maelstrom, which sometimes draws in ships, and dashes them on the rocks beneath. Whales and other animals are often forced into it. The Norwegians are tolerably well instructed in most branches of common education. Their religion is of the Lutheran persuasion. Christiania is the chief city. Bergen is the capital, and has a good harbor, Bergen, in Norway. with considerable commerce. The peasants live in huts of earth, covered over with grass, which gives them the appearance of hillocks. The interior is, however, comfortable and well provided. The people make their own articles of clothing. They are frank, brave, and independent. History.—Little is known of the history of Norway till the tenth century, at which time it was divided into a number of petty sovereignties. About 940, a Norwegian chief, named Harold Harfagre , after a severe contest, formed these various principalities into one kingdom. Canute the Great, of England, conquered Norway about 1030, but it resumed its independence soon after. In 1397, the three kingdoms of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark were united under one sovereign. In 1814, Norway was transferred to the King of Sweden, though much against the will of the inhabitants.
4. Lapland is the coldest and most desolate country in Europe. The eastern portion is nominally the territory of Russia. The western belongs to Norway, and the southern to Sweden; but such is the rigor of the climate, the sterility of the soil, the poverty and fewness of the people, that they are almost left to themselves, without the interference of government. Their country is rough, mountainous, and dreary. Vegetation is scanty, and agriculture is but little attended to. Grain is produced with difficulty. The reindeer is the chief support of the inhabitants. They employ it for drawing their sledges, feed on its flesh and milk, use its skin for clothing, and its sinews for twine and thread.
The Laplanders are of the same race as the Greenlanders, and live, in a similar manner, in small villages, thinly scattered over the country. Their huts are built of stones and sods, and resemble a baker's oven in shape. A hole in the top serves both for window and chimney. The people are superstitious and ignorant, yet peculiarly attached to their country. History.—When the Laplanders were first known to the rest of the world, they were independent. In the thirteenth century, they became subject to the King of Norway. The Swedes and Russians next invaded the territory, and at present the country is subject to the governments of Sweden and Russia.
1. Characteristics.—Russia is remarkable as being the most extensive empire in the world, having large possessions in Europe, Asia, and America.
2. Mountains.—The Ural Mountains form the boundary between Europe and Asia, and bound Russia on the east. They consist of a chain 1200 miles in length, extending from the Frozen Ocean, south, nearly to the Caspian Sea. The Caucasus Range is at the southeast, and the mountains of the Crimea at the south. There is not a single mountain throughout the whole extent of Russia in Europe, which may be described as a vast plain, inclosed by various mountain ranges.
3. Rivers.—The rivers of Russia are the largest in Europe. The Ural rises in the eastern declivity of the Ural Mountains, and, after a course of 1300 miles, empties its waters into the Caspian Sea. The Volga, the largest river in Europe, having a course of 2500 miles, flows into the Caspian by seventy mouths. It is navigated by more than five thousand boats, while its valuable fisheries afford employment to even a greater number of fishing craft. The Don, Dnieper, Dniester, Vistula, and Neva are large and important rivers.
4. Lakes, Islands, &c.—There are numerous and extensive lakes in the north of Russia. Of these, Lake Ladoga is the principal, being one hundred and twenty miles long by seventy broad. The lakes are useful in the internal navigation of the empire. From some of them, salt is extensively made. There are numerous islands belonging to the empire, the chief of which are Nova Zembla and Spitsbergen, already noticed. They are uninhabited by man, but abound in reindeer, ermine, seals, whales, &c. They are much resorted to by fishermen and hunters.
5. Products, Animals, Minerals, &c.—Russia produces all the plants found in the more central countries of Europe. More corn, rye; and barley are raised than is necessary for consumption, though agriculture is in a rude state. Hemp, flax, and tobacco are extensively cultivated. Grapes and wine are produced in the south. Black cattle and sheep are largely reared. The horses of the country are capable of enduring great fatigue. Camels are used by various wandering tribes near the borders of Asia. The wild bull, reindeer, elk, wild hog, deer, and hare are found in the forests of the north. Geese and ducks abound in the lakes, and fish are plentiful in the rivers. The eastern part of Russia is rich in minerals. There are mines of gold,
Exercises on the Map (see p. 176).—Boundaries of Russia in Europe? What sea at the west? At the south? At the north? Where are the Ural Mountains? Where is St. Petersburg? Moscow? Describe the Volga; Don; Dwina; other principal rivers.
LESSON CXI. 1. Characteristics? 2. Mountains? 3. Rivers? 4. Lakes, islands, &c.? 5. Products, animals, minerals, &c.
The governments of the United Kingdoms of Norway and Sweden are so very different from all others in Western Europe that it may not be amiss to say a few words respecting them. This I propose to do in the present communication.
There two countries, which constitute the great Scandinavian peninsula, as I stated in my last, are under the dominion of one and the same monarch, Oscar I., as he is called; but in almost all respects they are separate and independent kingdoms. Each has its own legislature, judiciary treasury, army, navy, and even currency.
The Norwegians pay a part of the salary of the King, and a part of the salaries of the ambassadors of the United Kingdom of Sweden and Norway. It is only since 1814 that they have been united to Sweden. Before that epoch they were under the sway of Denmark ever since the treaty of Calmar, in the latter part of the fourteenth century.
Although no more than a million and a half in number, the Norwegians have an excellent government, and are by far the best prepared people in Europe for a republican form of government. In fact they have what is substantially a republic, but without the name. Their connection with Sweden is almost nominal. The King of Sweden appoints a Viceroy, who resides—or usually does—at Christiana, which is the capital of the country and has some 40,000 inhabitants. I visited it a few years ago and found it to be a very pleasant place. There is a vacancy in this office at present, and it has been doubted whether the King will appoint another soon; for the Norwegians believe that they ran do as well without one as with.
The legislature of Norway meets once in three years, which is the term for which its membe s are chosen. It consists of one hundred men, who, when they assemble at the opening of the session, put their names in an urn, from which twenty-five are drawn by lot. These constitute the upper house, or Senate, which is called the Lagthing . The remainder (seventy-five) constitute the lower house, or Oedelsthing ; and the two together constitute the Storthing .
The Storthing makes the laws of Norway, but the King of Sweden has the right to veto the acts of the Storthing if he should think proper. But if the Storthing should pass a vetoed act at three successive sessions of the body by a simple majority in each house, then it becomes a law despite the King of Sweden's veto. Nor is this provision of the Norwegian constitution, which was formed after the model of ours in many of its features, a dead letter. On the contrary, it has of en been acted upon. It is an admirable provision against the abuse of the veto. The only objection which I have to it is, that it requires too long a time. Three Storthing demand too much time; two would be enough, for here would be time enough in which to consult the will of the nation. As it is, the people certainly have ample time in which to consider the acts in question.
In my opinion, the Norwegians have taught us a lesson in this matter. Wi h us the President may veto an act of Congress if he thinks proper. This is well enough as a safeguard against hasty legislation. But let the President give his reasons to Congress for exercising his veto; let that body reconsider the subject, and then if they should pass the act a second time during the same session, and pass it again in the next new Congress—which could in no case be a delay of longer than two years—that done the act ought to stand as the law of the nation, for there has been time enough in which to hear the voice of the nation. As the veto now stands with us, it puts too much power in the hands of the President. Too great a vote is required to overthrow that veto; nor is there as direct and decided reference of the question to the people as there should be. Until the time President Pierce, as far as my recollection serves, not one veto of a President had been voted down by Congress—for the simple reason that it was always easy for the President to command a minority sufficiently large to defeat the will of the majority, so that with the help of a minority he could defeat acts most important to the best interests of the country. The Norwegians have managed this matter better than we have.
There are some things very striking in the administration of justice in Norway. As in Denmark, there is in every parish a judge, chosen for three years by the people, before whom all civil cases must be brought in the first instance. He hears both sides, and gives his opinion or decision. If the parties agree to abide by it, very well. But if one party is unwilling, and insists upon going into a law court, the case must go thither; but should it be decided against the party that thus insisted, he must bear the costs of the trial in the law court.
There is another excellent thing in the administration of justice in Norway—it is the fact that the decision of the inferior courts are reviewed by higher ones, and if a wrong decision has been made and discovered, the case is sent down again to the court that made it, with instructions to decide otherwise.
And then, too, the judges are accountable for their decisions, and if found incapable, are dismissed from office; and, in some cases, if negligent, are fined. Only think of that! Would it not be well if we had some such provision with us, to guard us against having incompetent and unprincipled judges? I think decidedly that it would.
As to Sweden, it has a diet, which is a legislative body that consists of not less than four houses or branches. In the first place there is the House of the Nobles. They meet in one end of a large building on the northern side of the island, on which the palace of the king stands; the other end is devoted to holding of courts. The hall in which the nobles meet is a fine large room, and its walls are covered over with the coats of arms of the several members, painted on pieces of tin about fourteen inches long by ten wide. The number of the heads of noble families who have the right to a seat in this body is about 1,150, but seldom do more than 500 attend, who sit on plain benches, covered with black cloth, and without backs. The presiding officer and two clerks occupy a platform on one side of the hall. The members sit with their hats on, as do the members of the House of Lords in England This body contains a considerable number of able men; but the greater part are not men of much note, although proud of their noble origin. Sweden is full of noble families, some of which possess a good deal of property in lands and mines; but by far the greater part are poor; and if it were not for positions in the civil government or in the army, they would starve. The Hall of the Nobles has witnessed many turbulent scenes in days gone by.
The next house of the diet which I would mention is that of the clergy, consisting of sixty members, (at least they told me so yesterday, when I was in it,) of whom the Archbishop of Upsala and the other bishops, are twelve. The other members are chosen by the diocesses to which they belong. They are paid also by the diocesses.
The third house is that of the burgesses or representatives of the cities and boroughs. They are, in the present diet, sixty-six in number, and are by far the most enlightened body of the whole
The fourth and last house is that of the farmers or peasants, which contains about one hundred and twenty members—plain, but sensible men—rather slow in their deliberations. They have a striking appearance, dressed in the various costumes which prevail in different parts of the country. As there is not a lawyer among them, the King appoints, at the commencement of every session, a distinguished jurist, whose duty it is to give proper shape to the bills which the body wish to pass; and also to inform them, as their legal advisor, when he sees that they are about to do something which would be unconstitutional. He sits by the side of the presiding officer of the body, but has no vote.
Such, in few words, is the diet of Sweden. As the vote on any question is by houses, it of course requires the vote of three of them to pass any law or act; and on questions touching the constitution, unanimity is required. Legislation with such a body must be slow enough. The diet meets once in three years, and the sessions are sometimes a year and a half in length.
The burgesses and farmers are paid each by his constituents. Some get more than others, but none of them get as much as three dollars of our money per day. This would be considered poor pay in our country; but in Sweden living is far cheaper than with us.
A few years ago the King, who is one of the most enilghtened monarchs in Europe, proposed to the diet a change in the constitution, so as to have a diet of two houses, like the Parliament of England. But only one of the four houses was in favor of the change; that was the House of the Burgesses, a fact which speaks volumes in regard to the question. Which portion of the population of any country is most likely to take the lead whenever the subject demands intelligence and freedom of speech? It is, as all history proves, the inhabitants of the cities and large towns where opinions circulate more readily, where knowledge is most easily brought together to discuss, to resolve, to act.
But Sweden is waking up. A system of public schools has been established by law, and is gradually going into efficient operation. Railroads are beginning to be made. There is a large number of steamboats running along the coasts and on the lakes and rivers. The temperance societies are doing much good, especially in the rural districts. The country is out of debt, the navy is quite largh enough for the protection of the commerce of the nation. The army of Sweden contains 36,000 officers and men, and is in a good state of discipline.
Norway is also advancing steadily. Both countries are in a very prosperous condition. The question of religious liberty is much discussed in both countries. On this question Norway is ahead of Sweden; but the question is now agitating the diet of the latter country. The House of Burgesses is all right, as, too, for a wonder, is the House of the Nobles. I fear the House of Farmers will not come up to the mark, though they are prepared to do something. But I am ashamed to say that the House of the Clergy will hold back. The King is ready for any measure of religious liberty, however large. On this subject, as well as on almost every other, he has been greatly in advance of the people over whom he reigns. Alas! I amy sorry to say that I fear he is near the end of his reign. He is very unwell. At this time he is at the sea shore, near Gottenberg, for the purpose of bathing, but is expected in town in a few days. The Crown Prince, I regret to say, is by no means as promising as could be desired.
To-morrow I must leave for St. Petersburg, by way of Abo and Helsingfors, the chief towns in Finland.
[begin surface 804]An unexpected detention in this good old city of Kjobenhavn enables me to send you another letter before I leave for Gottenburg and Stockholm, which I purpose to do in a few hours.
It is extraordinary that so few Americans come to these Scandinavian countries, notwithstanding that they are so full of interesting things, to say nothing of their historical associations and the interesting character of the people. Our people, when they come to Europe, travel about England, Ireland, Scotland, visit Paris, Brussels, Waterloo, perchance go up or down the Rhine, go as far as Geneva and Mont Blanc, and some of them as far as Rome, Naples and Vesuvius, and then return home, entertaining the idea that they have seen Europe. Just so it was with the English until later times. Many went over to Paris, Lyons, Marseilles, down into Italy as far as Rome and Naples, and then returned through Switzerland, down the Rhine into Belgium, and so back to England. And this was making the "tour of Europe," in their estimation. Few of them diverged into Germany to see the vast stores of art and knowledge which are there. It was hardly once in an age that one of them adventured into Spain—or nearer to it than the rock of Gibraltar—even to see a bull fight, although one would think that from their own name of "John Bull," and their insatiable fondness for the beastly amusement of the "ring," they would certainly have been attracted to both Spain and Portugal. But as to coming up to these Scandinavian regions, to whose bold ancestors and the transmission of a portion of their blood in the veins of the English to this day, they owe all the energy and strength that is in them, they never thought of doing such a thing. Talk of Saxon blood and Saxon character! It was the Norman energy and character that made the English race what they are. We have had enough of Anglo Saxon glorification. Nonsense, the whole of it.
Yes, it was the men of these Northern regions, the sons of Odin; it was the Harolds, the Sigurds, the Claps, the Haarfagers, the Canutes, the Svends, the powerful jarls of old Norse, and Scone, and Danske, whose descendants in England have dwindled down into the earls of that country, who made the English race what it is. What a people the children of Odin were ! For ages heathen of the most ferocious character, whose chief happiness on earth was found in war, or in the marauding expedition, and whose bliss in heaven was to be hoped for in drinking mead out of the skulls of their enemies in the 354 halls of Valhalla, in Godheim, the land whence they supposed their ancestors to have come to Manheime or these Scandinavian countries. But Christianity conquered them, and commenced the work of their civilization.
The best thing that Charlemagne ever did was to plant a missionary station, more than a thousand years ago, at Ham, near where Hamburg now stands, in order that the light might shine up from that focal point into all these hyperborean regions; and it did shine; and when the Reformation came and brought to these people a purer Christianity than they had before possessed, these inhabitants received it, even their kings and nobles taking the lead.
The fact is, these brave people of the North did not know much about Rome; and the little they knew did not particularly dispose them to obey an old man in that city whom, when they went there, they saw dressed up like an old woman and surrounded by "Cardinals," as they were called, who also resembled old women. This was too much for these Scandinavian folk, and so at the first blast from the trumpet of Martin Luther they pricked up their ears, and as a goodly number of their younger clergy, and among them such men as Claus and Laurentius Petri, had been disciples of the Wittemburg Doctor, they went over in mass to the ranks of the reformers, their kings, and especially the immortal Gustavus Vasa, marching at their head. At that day Finland belonged to Sweden, and Norway belonged to Denmark. And so the whole four Scandinavian countries, now numbering about eight millions of inhabitants, became so universally Protestant, that even at this day the Pope has almost no foothold at all in these parts. Think of that, Dr. Hughes. I suppose that there may be three, possibly four, Roman Catholic churches in Denmark, very insignificant ones; none at all in Norway, that I know of, nor even a priest, unless it be some skulking Jesuit, who is trying to get into that rocky realm—land of froids and fjelds (I have heard something of the sort)—whose constitution positively forbids, or did a few years ago, a Jesuit or a Jew to set foot in that country. Think of that, I repeat, Dr. Hughes. In Sweden there is one small Roman Catholic church, and two priests at Stockholm. And there is, I believe, one Roman Catholic church and one priest in Finland. So you see how things stand in these parts. I am quite sure that you will find, on inquiry, that the above given statistics are substantially correct.
I am always pleased to visit Copenhagen. The Danes are a civil and well disposed people. They are also well educated; and among the higher classes there is a great deal of refinement and superior culture. They resemble the English and Americans more than other people on the continent, not even excepting the Hollanders. The Norwegians and Swedes, on the